So the reason your low oil light was on was because the engine was no longer running. Your problem is not with oil pressure. You need to change your purge valve. This is very common and does exactly what you mentioned. And it will do it sporadically because it's getting dirty and sticking. Try that. Good looking truck. Looks alot like mine.
This happened to me about 4 months ago i just turned the engine back on and never had that problem again But i might change that purge valve just in case
I just had this issue myself with the low oil pressure coming on. Went on a 1500 miles road trip and when we were leaving to come back home it happened. Had #27 fuse blow for the fuel pump. Open the fuse box under the hood and pop out that fuse, my guess is it’s fried. Went to Napa auto store and got a new 20 amp fuse put it in and all the issues went away. Have had no issues since. Hope this helps.
Nice looking rig. I love mine and have only done minor modification from stock. It’s a 2012 5.0 XLT 4x4 super crew that I got from a dealer with 52k miles in January 2019. It was owned by one of their retired employees who spec’d it out with what he wanted (4x4 with Rear Diff lock, DVD player which I’ve never used, and chrome appearance package). When I bought it it was stock height and tires, so I asked them to level it and put some 33s on it. However their maintenance manager recommended a 35x12.50, so I went with that and it looked/s great. As of yesterday when I got a routine servicing down at the dealer I have 127k miles on it - I drive 49 miles one-way for work during the week so it’s added up over the last year and a half since getting this job. I haven’t had any mechanical issues whatsoever in my time driving it. I noticed how you said yours doesn’t want to stay in 6th gear with the tires you have on and that seemed odd to me. Granted I do kind of baby mine on the highway to get the best mpg possible, but mine will stay in 6th just fine as long as I do that. My avg mpg with the level and 35s is 16.7 mpg, so not too shabby considering the bigger tires and changed aerodynamics with the level. The best mpg I’ve gotten when taking a day trip was like 18.9 with this setup. I don’t know how that would have differed from stock stance and stuff since I didn’t put any time behind the wheel with stock setup. Haha. Long story short, I love mine and hope to drive it for a long, long time. No plans to sell or get rid of it - especially since it’s paid off haha.
Mine just had a hose fitting for the transmission fluid up front near the trans cooler shear off and my truck just pumped transmission fluid everywhere and wouldn't drive correctly. Had to get it towed..🙄 something so stupid. 2014 5.0 w/ 114,000. Truck is all stock minus Borla Atak exhaust system. First issue so far since new. Has been a very good truck so far. I love it.
Get the longer terminal fuse for the fuel pump or relocate the fuse, simple Google search. Possibly melted some plastic and wasn't making contact. Happened to me but in the parking lot after remote starting to warm it up. If it happens again turn your key to the run position and listen if the fuel pump kicks on if it doesn't get a longer fuse.
I have a 2011 F-150 FX4 5.0 with 350,000 miles and worst thing that happened was the idle pulley ripped off the timing cover. Total cost to replace yourself is around $400
@@blomeoutdoors2134 most of it is highway miles but I worked out in west Texas surveying pipeline and this is the truck I drove on lease roads and row out there so under the hood is covered in white dirt from some of the powder dirt on row out there
Have the same issue it's more than likely the oil pressure sensor/sending unit. It's very common. Look up the exact issue on Google or UA-cam and be sure to use an electronic contact cleaner on the connector going into the pressure sensor. It's easier to replace on a 2wd with it being 4wd you need to replace it from the topside off the engine, take off the alternator and anything else to gain access to the sensor. It is below the alternator. May need to take off the coolant reservoir as well to gain access.
I have a 2013 5.0 and only once has it thrown a low oil code and shut off, and that was when I pulled up on an incline, but it was just that one time and has been good ever since. I bought mine with about 57k miles on it in May of 2018 and as of November 2021 I have over 122k miles and the only problems I had were around 90k I got some evap codes which just needed the evap hosing replaced above the fuel tank. I got it replaced at the dealership so it was a bit pricey at around $350, but I wasn't confident in anyone else diagnosing it correctly. It didn't cause any issues, just was an annoyance with the check engine light. Around 96k the heater core went out, which I replaced myself in about 8 hours for only $100 for parts and $150 to discharge and recharge the A/C instead of the $1000+ two day job quote to have a shop do it. And finally, most recently around 115k the water pump went out. And honestly $700 over the course of 3.5 years isn't bad at all especially compared to my last car, a 2012 Veloster which had a $100 problem or worse every few weeks.
Hi there, I recommend these following items be replaced immediately with the purchase of any used vehicle. Positive crankcase ventilation, new coolant, new oil change, new transmission fluid.
@@blomeoutdoors2134 I have a 2014 with the 5.0, and I'm surprised at how low the idle rpm is. In gear it's roughly 525 rpm. I have to wonder how much oil pressure the oil pump can put out at that rpm, even if everything is working well?
I just got one of these with the v6 3.7 with 208k miles on it, pretty good engine for a v6. got it for a bargain. Anyone have any experience with the high mileage v6?
The 5th and 6th gear shifting is a recall for the transmission. How ever u and i both are over warranty miles for a free recall replacement... I called ford they told me $800 to fix. Its a piece or sumthing on or apart of the transmission
I've got a 2013. 5.0 when you come to a red light. The oil pressure would go down. I would rip it up and no problem. The air conditioner might have done that. But I find out when I change my oil it wouldn't do that. What's the Ford says it's just something like a short in it or something. So you might want to change the oil. It only happens at the light. But I put thousands of miles on it never had no problems with it. Then I got a 2016 6 cylinder turbo. I like it pretty well it's cheaper on gas.
I saw a 2013 with 256k miles at work, drove it around for a few miles and drove like any other f150. P.O said he hasn't done much work to it throughout its life. You'll probably run into mostly wear and tear issues since ur at the 200k mark, but after you figure out all of the small things it should be smooth sailing.
The truck shut off then the light comes on you don't have low oil pressure. Here is somethings to loot at fuel filter and pump engine to ground connection test the alternator look at the battery terminals make sure they are clean and tight and it can also be a sensor such as a crank or mass airflow.
I test drove a 2013 today and as I was about to pull out of the dealership to test drive it and it had shut off on me. I had to put it in park and turn the truck off and back on twice.
The actuators for the heating and air go out quite often..cheap part..but have to disassemble dash to get to..the one behind stereo is for the blend door and one above and to the right of accelerator pedal for floor dash defrost aren’t too bad but if you have dual climate control there’s one down at floor that is a nightmare to change…it can be done if you cut some on the duct work definitely not the right way but dealer will quote for removing dash to fix a part that cost depending on where you get it 25 to 50 bucks. There’s also one on passenger side on right side of heat air box that is for outside and recirculate air.
The lead frame in the transmission can get 'contaminated' with metal particles that can cause it to shift hard or unusually, from what I have read. I changed the trans fluid and filter at about 78,000 miles to try to prevent this from happening on my 2014.
Lead frame on these are a pain I've had to replace myne they are a royal pain to locate due to it being a recalled part took 7 weeks to get myne from my local ford 02 sensors aren't great either. I'm at 254000 and still running good
i know your water pump was replaced prepandemic but did you replace it yourself, if not how much did it cost. Like everyone has said nice rig. I have 140,700 on my 2012 f150 but living in canada rust has taking over the bumper. Since 2019 only replaced the alternator.
I got the same truck but crew cab. Mine does leak from the oil pan, oil level just like yours on the gage. Never had that message. 108k miles. 4x4. I do have 35 inch tires and have the same transmission shift to a lower gear in hill terrain or in between 45 and 55mph if your gentle on the pedal.
I've never seen it in a 5.0 but I've seen it in a 5.4 the stalling at stop lights. A 5.0 should have two vct solenoids one for each bank. If they go bad or get clogged they will change the fuel trims or get stuck open or closed. Maybe give changing the vcts a shot.
Sounds like you have an electronic issue. And has anyone ever told you when you get tires larger than 32" tall, you have to change the final drive ratio so the drive train can keep up?
I have a 2011 12th gen truck with the 5.0. I’d love to see more more you do on you’re 2012. I’m looking into a programmer for mine. What would you get for yours?
Mine has 280k and did that a a gas pump put higher octane gas in it haven't done it sense, my guess is a lil bit of bad Gas look up spark knock also bad Gas can do that as well
It just killed its self said low oil pressure started up and was fine and i had timing chain problems about 7k after now this is a ecoboost not a 5.0 but same truck and when it snapped it stalled every time i let it idle and every time it stalled it said low oil pressure so you have oil pressure i wouldnt stress about it i have ran out of oil in the same truck my turbo seals went out and it said low oil pressure and i had shut it off myself
Dude just today the same thing happened to me and I remember I saw your video and I turned off the truck and then I turned it on again and it was like nothin happened
Probably low oil. My brother has a 2018 5.0 and they tend to burn oil slowly over time and he was doing 75 on the highway and the truck lost all oil pressure and the throttle was unresponsive. Luckily he rolled to a gas station and just put some oil in it and it worked. Got home and he was 5 quarts low! On a engine that holds 9 quarters!!! His truck has 50,000 miles. And he was on 10,000 miles without an oil change. So I'm not sure if that's your issue or not😂
Could be your alternator or battery couldn’t support the electrical system at idle. You have extra lights, loud music, and ac compressor working at max. Check your alternator voltage output and test your battery.
orlando mendoza it’s the XLT. From what I understand it was just a sensor that went bad. It only happened that once and hasn’t ever happened again since.
@@blomeoutdoors2134 do you know what sensor it was a friend of mine has experienced the same thing twice and we should probably check that sensor or change it out. Thank you for the response and your truck is one of the best looking I've seen 👍
orlando mendoza Thanks. I had a check engine light come on about a month ago. I read the code and it was the purge valve that went out. I’m not sure if that was related to this same thing or not. Maybe start there? I couldn’t for sure tell you though.
I agree and I would, only thing is they’ve been on there since truck was at the original dealership in 2012 and I’m sure there will be sun fade marks on the paint where you can tell where they used to be and don’t want that. But do agree it would look much better like that!
I own a 2013 F150 Platinum...and I do what I did it to my 1970 Z28 Camaro, my 1974 Nova...MAINTANCE!!!..People do fcking maintinance to yours cars no matter if chevy,ford or dodge...for God sake!!!!
Bro... You literally took 10+ min to say under 2 min worth of stuff... Get to the point. You kept repeating the same stuff like 5-6 times in different ways before moving to your next point
So the reason your low oil light was on was because the engine was no longer running. Your problem is not with oil pressure. You need to change your purge valve. This is very common and does exactly what you mentioned. And it will do it sporadically because it's getting dirty and sticking. Try that. Good looking truck. Looks alot like mine.
Same symptoms and fix here. Purge valve was stuck open pulling a vacuum on the gas tank. Vapor lock.
This happened to me about 4 months ago
i just turned the engine back on and never had that problem again
But i might change that purge valve just in case
I just had this issue myself with the low oil pressure coming on. Went on a 1500 miles road trip and when we were leaving to come back home it happened. Had #27 fuse blow for the fuel pump. Open the fuse box under the hood and pop out that fuse, my guess is it’s fried. Went to Napa auto store and got a new 20 amp fuse put it in and all the issues went away. Have had no issues since. Hope this helps.
Erin Berg Thanks! I’ll check that out!
@Blome Outdoors did it work?
Too much talking and repeating. Cut this to a 5 minute video lol
I have a 14 with a 6 inch lift put lift on in 2014 and im still using stock shocks in front and they have been great .
looks great, oil sensor weakens and allows oil into the plug to the sensor. New sensor and an electrical spray cleaned the plug and no issues anymore.
Nice looking rig. I love mine and have only done minor modification from stock. It’s a 2012 5.0 XLT 4x4 super crew that I got from a dealer with 52k miles in January 2019. It was owned by one of their retired employees who spec’d it out with what he wanted (4x4 with Rear Diff lock, DVD player which I’ve never used, and chrome appearance package). When I bought it it was stock height and tires, so I asked them to level it and put some 33s on it. However their maintenance manager recommended a 35x12.50, so I went with that and it looked/s great. As of yesterday when I got a routine servicing down at the dealer I have 127k miles on it - I drive 49 miles one-way for work during the week so it’s added up over the last year and a half since getting this job. I haven’t had any mechanical issues whatsoever in my time driving it. I noticed how you said yours doesn’t want to stay in 6th gear with the tires you have on and that seemed odd to me. Granted I do kind of baby mine on the highway to get the best mpg possible, but mine will stay in 6th just fine as long as I do that. My avg mpg with the level and 35s is 16.7 mpg, so not too shabby considering the bigger tires and changed aerodynamics with the level. The best mpg I’ve gotten when taking a day trip was like 18.9 with this setup. I don’t know how that would have differed from stock stance and stuff since I didn’t put any time behind the wheel with stock setup. Haha.
Long story short, I love mine and hope to drive it for a long, long time. No plans to sell or get rid of it - especially since it’s paid off haha.
that truck looks sick!! i love the front end! the grille, the headlights, and the bumper are all dope as hell
I agree, would love the link to the grille bumpers and headlights/taillights
Mine just had a hose fitting for the transmission fluid up front near the trans cooler shear off and my truck just pumped transmission fluid everywhere and wouldn't drive correctly. Had to get it towed..🙄 something so stupid. 2014 5.0 w/ 114,000. Truck is all stock minus Borla Atak exhaust system. First issue so far since new. Has been a very good truck so far. I love it.
Get the longer terminal fuse for the fuel pump or relocate the fuse, simple Google search. Possibly melted some plastic and wasn't making contact. Happened to me but in the parking lot after remote starting to warm it up. If it happens again turn your key to the run position and listen if the fuel pump kicks on if it doesn't get a longer fuse.
Awesome looking truck! Mine's a 2012 5.0 4x4 supercab with 178k miles. I love my truck.
Truck looks dope brother! Love the lights and front grill!
Replace the #27 fuse with the updated relocation one or a tall 20amp fuse. Very common problem with all 12th gen.
I have a 2011 F-150 FX4 5.0 with 350,000 miles and worst thing that happened was the idle pulley ripped off the timing cover. Total cost to replace yourself is around $400
Geez man talk about a high mileage truck!! Still got the original trans and engine??
@@blomeoutdoors2134 yes still has the original motor and trans and still running strong
@@robertlopez787 All highway miles then??
@@blomeoutdoors2134 most of it is highway miles but I worked out in west Texas surveying pipeline and this is the truck I drove on lease roads and row out there so under the hood is covered in white dirt from some of the powder dirt on row out there
I did have the issue of low oil pressure and usually just replacing the oil pressure sending unit behind the alternator will fix that
Have the same issue it's more than likely the oil pressure sensor/sending unit. It's very common. Look up the exact issue on Google or UA-cam and be sure to use an electronic contact cleaner on the connector going into the pressure sensor. It's easier to replace on a 2wd with it being 4wd you need to replace it from the topside off the engine, take off the alternator and anything else to gain access to the sensor. It is below the alternator. May need to take off the coolant reservoir as well to gain access.
I have a 2013 5.0 and only once has it thrown a low oil code and shut off, and that was when I pulled up on an incline, but it was just that one time and has been good ever since. I bought mine with about 57k miles on it in May of 2018 and as of November 2021 I have over 122k miles and the only problems I had were around 90k I got some evap codes which just needed the evap hosing replaced above the fuel tank. I got it replaced at the dealership so it was a bit pricey at around $350, but I wasn't confident in anyone else diagnosing it correctly. It didn't cause any issues, just was an annoyance with the check engine light. Around 96k the heater core went out, which I replaced myself in about 8 hours for only $100 for parts and $150 to discharge and recharge the A/C instead of the $1000+ two day job quote to have a shop do it. And finally, most recently around 115k the water pump went out. And honestly $700 over the course of 3.5 years isn't bad at all especially compared to my last car, a 2012 Veloster which had a $100 problem or worse every few weeks.
Hi there, I recommend these following items be replaced immediately with the purchase of any used vehicle. Positive crankcase ventilation, new coolant, new oil change, new transmission fluid.
230K on my stock 14', just replaced oil pan gasket and i need to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold. solid rigs for sure.
i have a 2011 f150 with 300k still running strong, keep up with maintnence and youll be good
What all did you do
What all have you done
@@mattbrown2432 just all basic maintenance engine finally gave out at 405k all original parts besides water pump tensioners & belts
Serviced it as needed and when recommended. Differential, transmission, engine etc. only used oem as far as spark plugs gaskets & such
@@gerardoleija5449 when you say "went out:" , what do you mean exactly? Head gasket blew? Block ? What failed?
Check and replace fuel filter as maintenance. It was the reason mine would always die at stoplights
12:40 The shifting hard thing is most likely the slip yoke needs greased
I've heard that if you have nickelback playing to loud on your radio, it will shut your vehicle off.
😅look at this photograph! everytime i do it makes me laugh!
You havent had any major issues with this truck....everything is normal..
So i dont understand the video
Yup blah blah blah blah nothing
Sounds like a faulty sending unit that’s causing the intermittent problem. It’s cheaper than an oil pump. Start there and work your way deeper.
Thanks! Yeah I'll check it out for sure! I was thinking it was just a sensor going bad or something, cause I haven't had the issue since then
@@blomeoutdoors2134 I have a 2014 with the 5.0, and I'm surprised at how low the idle rpm is. In gear it's roughly 525 rpm. I have to wonder how much oil pressure the oil pump can put out at that rpm, even if everything is working well?
Also I put a sensor in it. We thought that's what it was. But it didn't help any at all. An oil sensor
I just got one of these with the v6 3.7 with 208k miles on it, pretty good engine for a v6. got it for a bargain. Anyone have any experience with the high mileage v6?
How is it going?
That 3.7 for the steel body f150s are solid, just do your oil changes every 3k and don't skip on regular maintenance 👍
I got a 2012 f150 v6 3.7 with 258k, all original powetrain, had my radiator fans go but that's about it since I've owned it
Happened to me when I was in reverse and wasn’t at a complete stop and put it in drive and instead of shifting to drive it just shut off
Weird. Never heard of it happening before.
The 5th and 6th gear shifting is a recall for the transmission. How ever u and i both are over warranty miles for a free recall replacement... I called ford they told me $800 to fix. Its a piece or sumthing on or apart of the transmission
How many miles do we need to have to get it fixed
I've got a 2013. 5.0 when you come to a red light. The oil pressure would go down. I would rip it up and no problem. The air conditioner might have done that. But I find out when I change my oil it wouldn't do that. What's the Ford says it's just something like a short in it or something. So you might want to change the oil. It only happens at the light. But I put thousands of miles on it never had no problems with it. Then I got a 2016 6 cylinder turbo. I like it pretty well it's cheaper on gas.
I saw a 2013 with 256k miles at work, drove it around for a few miles and drove like any other f150. P.O said he hasn't done much work to it throughout its life. You'll probably run into mostly wear and tear issues since ur at the 200k mark, but after you figure out all of the small things it should be smooth sailing.
The truck shut off then the light comes on you don't have low oil pressure. Here is somethings to loot at fuel filter and pump engine to ground connection test the alternator look at the battery terminals make sure they are clean and tight and it can also be a sensor such as a crank or mass airflow.
My driver door makes the same cracking sound every time I open it all the way, but it still works perfectly fine so cracking door sound it is.
I test drove a 2013 today and as I was about to pull out of the dealership to test drive it and it had shut off on me. I had to put it in park and turn the truck off and back on twice.
Could you buy a tuner programmer to let the truck computer know that you have bigger tires.
The actuators for the heating and air go out quite often..cheap part..but have to disassemble dash to get to..the one behind stereo is for the blend door and one above and to the right of accelerator pedal for floor dash defrost aren’t too bad but if you have dual climate control there’s one down at floor that is a nightmare to change…it can be done if you cut some on the duct work definitely not the right way but dealer will quote for removing dash to fix a part that cost depending on where you get it 25 to 50 bucks. There’s also one on passenger side on right side of heat air box that is for outside and recirculate air.
The lead frame in the transmission can get 'contaminated' with metal particles that can cause it to shift hard or unusually, from what I have read. I changed the trans fluid and filter at about 78,000 miles to try to prevent this from happening on my 2014.
Did you get the recall done on it?
Nice truck, Man! Make more videos on this truck! I can’t find many video on the 12 gen extended cab.
Lead frame on these are a pain I've had to replace myne they are a royal pain to locate due to it being a recalled part took 7 weeks to get myne from my local ford 02 sensors aren't great either. I'm at 254000 and still running good
i know your water pump was replaced prepandemic but did you replace it yourself, if not how much did it cost. Like everyone has said nice rig. I have 140,700 on my 2012 f150 but living in canada rust has taking over the bumper. Since 2019 only replaced the alternator.
I got the same truck but crew cab. Mine does leak from the oil pan, oil level just like yours on the gage. Never had that message. 108k miles. 4x4. I do have 35 inch tires and have the same transmission shift to a lower gear in hill terrain or in between 45 and 55mph if your gentle on the pedal.
My dad had the same problem at 210k miles. Only happens when he comes to a full stop but he says the truck never turned off
Truck looks super nice but I wish you would’ve shown the rear more
I've never seen it in a 5.0 but I've seen it in a 5.4 the stalling at stop lights. A 5.0 should have two vct solenoids one for each bank. If they go bad or get clogged they will change the fuel trims or get stuck open or closed. Maybe give changing the vcts a shot.
The 5.4 three valve has to be Vct Solenoids as well just saying
Oil pressure sending unit? I replaced mine at around 90,000 miles, I have a 2013 F150 XLT 5.0 Supercab
I have a 2013 F150. Truck acted strange once. Turned out to be a fuse blown causing it to act strange.
I have a 13 5.0 with 35”s all its life running 216k and my uncle has a bone stock 13 5.0 with 257k
Oil sending unit went out on mine when it happen that was your warning
You Ramble too much !
I know I'm late but sounds you need a tuneup. That's a common sign that a vehicle cuts off at a red-light
Sounds like you have an electronic issue. And has anyone ever told you when you get tires larger than 32" tall, you have to change the final drive ratio so the drive train can keep up?
I love your aftermarket headlights and tail lights. Can you send me a link to purchase them......Thx
Lmk if you get that
I have a 2011 12th gen truck with the 5.0. I’d love to see more more you do on you’re 2012. I’m looking into a programmer for mine. What would you get for yours?
i’ve got 226 thousand miles and running good
Check the fuel canister itself, canister solenoids, or injectors and fuel pump.
Mine has 280k and did that a a gas pump put higher octane gas in it haven't done it sense, my guess is a lil bit of bad Gas look up spark knock also bad Gas can do that as well
I love your ford truck you show
That happened to me 3 to 4 times around 80-90,000 miles but hasn’t done it since but my water pump just went out at 105,000
🎯Nice truck. But with that high of mileage it's hard to sell. But I'm glad you had really good luck it.
Put a capacitor on your amplifier the woofers are killing your battery.
thats a map/maf sensor. it happens when cold or humidity simply water shorts it out
Thats a nice looking truck!
What’s that bumper called and do you have a link to where you got it?
I had the EXACT same thing happen one time with the oil and mine has always been on the high side.
I thought maybe oil pressure sensor but I didn’t check it out cause it’s never done it again.
Did your engine fans come on and stay on alot. Before your water pump went out
You got to change the oil pump,, that’s it
It just killed its self said low oil pressure started up and was fine and i had timing chain problems about 7k after now this is a ecoboost not a 5.0 but same truck and when it snapped it stalled every time i let it idle and every time it stalled it said low oil pressure so you have oil pressure i wouldnt stress about it i have ran out of oil in the same truck my turbo seals went out and it said low oil pressure and i had shut it off myself
Dude just today the same thing happened to me and I remember I saw your video and I turned off the truck and then I turned it on again and it was like nothin happened
Probably low oil. My brother has a 2018 5.0 and they tend to burn oil slowly over time and he was doing 75 on the highway and the truck lost all oil pressure and the throttle was unresponsive. Luckily he rolled to a gas station and just put some oil in it and it worked. Got home and he was 5 quarts low! On a engine that holds 9 quarters!!! His truck has 50,000 miles. And he was on 10,000 miles without an oil change. So I'm not sure if that's your issue or not😂
It holds 7.7 "quaters"
My 2003 4.6 Triton burns a little bit of oil but nothing crazy, I check it about once a week and have to add a very small amount about once month
Why would you go 10k miles without an oil change I change mine every 5k
Thats why I didnt buy one of those newer 5.0. They have issues burning oil.
I’ve had my truck do that before I had to replace the fuel pump
Same year and motor
how much did that cost?
Mine did the same excact thing and now wont run at all...
Those trucks are solid, now I can’t say the same about that monkey harness job in the engine bay.
I really like the video you made. Get to the point bro man
Love to see a review on the headlights and grill.
You got it!
@@blomeoutdoors2134 Yes What he said. With links to buy them
FPV FANATIC I did end up filming them and posted them. They’re on the channel posted recently.
@blomeoutdoors2134 link please 🙏
I had the oil light on and it shut off the engine 3 times
Recorded horizontally😀👍
It probably stalled spontaneously the fors when they stall says low oil pressure happend to my eco it was a fail safe thing
That is a common problems with ford vehicles. It happened to me driving the sport trac.
Any trasmision issues
I had same thing happen it was a senior
Could be your alternator or battery couldn’t support the electrical system at idle. You have extra lights, loud music, and ac compressor working at max. Check your alternator voltage output and test your battery.
What is the size of the bed?
Have you been able to figure out what was wrong with it? And what trim of f150 is it?
orlando mendoza it’s the XLT. From what I understand it was just a sensor that went bad. It only happened that once and hasn’t ever happened again since.
@@blomeoutdoors2134 do you know what sensor it was a friend of mine has experienced the same thing twice and we should probably check that sensor or change it out. Thank you for the response and your truck is one of the best looking I've seen 👍
orlando mendoza Thanks. I had a check engine light come on about a month ago. I read the code and it was the purge valve that went out. I’m not sure if that was related to this same thing or not. Maybe start there? I couldn’t for sure tell you though.
What about the 3.5?
Does your motor have that tic on the passenger side like so many other 5.0 from that year do. I have a 2012 and it has 152,000 and it tics.
Is the tic the timing chain issue?
@@Dasher-jt3fi Nope, not a timing chain issue.
Its a roller follower
@@Edgar_Acosta Just saw this, please explain, thank you.
Happened to me when I was in drive on a hill and let the truck roll back
BL4CKICE1992 That’s weird, I haven’t heard of it happening before until I had the issue and a bunch of people told me they had the same issue as well
Get rid of the pinstripe in the 4x4 graffic and that fucker will look sleek! That's getting picky, nice truck!
I agree and I would, only thing is they’ve been on there since truck was at the original dealership in 2012 and I’m sure there will be sun fade marks on the paint where you can tell where they used to be and don’t want that. But do agree it would look much better like that!
You out of breath? Lol
Yammi616 It was a lot of talking okay 😂😂
@@blomeoutdoors2134 😂 nice video, almost picked up 1 with 175k miles taken care of. Might still!
Yammi616 I’ve put another close to 1500 miles on it since this video and no issues what so ever with anything!
I own a 2013 F150 Platinum...and I do what I did it to my 1970 Z28 Camaro, my 1974 Nova...MAINTANCE!!!..People do fcking maintinance to yours cars no matter if chevy,ford or dodge...for God sake!!!!
Man who did that wiring lol. Ever heard of wire loom. I mean bare minimum use that shit.....
How about explaining what engine and drive train you have instead of bumpers etc…….
Ford had to replace my engine after low oil pressure on 2013 Ford 5.0
Oil pressure switch
@@mikehigby7897 Dave he’s right those ops vibrate out the oem switch doesn’t come with lock tight on it just had to change mine.
Honestly if you got a cold air intake it might help with it driving in 6th
Where did you buy your headlights
CarID
No offence, but way to much rambling to finish watching. You seem like a great kid though.
How many times you can repeat yourself- is it to make video longer???
5.0 tick
Fuckin ford...found on road dead...more like didn't make it to road...I have a ford.. they are awesome just a pain in the ass
Good video . You talk way to much about nothing.
I liked looking at the truck...but a lot of talking...
Nothing your parents bank account can't handle?
Bro... You literally took 10+ min to say under 2 min worth of stuff... Get to the point. You kept repeating the same stuff like 5-6 times in different ways before moving to your next point
And you were driving in the wrong gear