This is the best video because his hands don't cover up the work and the video instructions are clear to understand for a newbie with good audio too, New subscriber,
Excellent video, my van has about 28,000 miles 2022 v6 diesel sprinter. Using your video I’ve cleaned it at about 15,000 20,000 23,000 24,000 and now it’s doing the about 1,500 rpm buckaroo like it does every time the egr is dirty. Dealer refuses do replace it under warranty because there is no codes.
Great video. I would add including the size of the socket for the bolts would be helpful. I would also have suctioned out any dirt and dust after sanding.
The size E10 was mentioned during the filler neck removal. All of the bolts are E10 so I didn't feel the need to mention it again. If you have some good buildup on the mounting surfaces, I could see taking more care with managing debris. Fortunately, this particular truck was pretty clean, so I don't feel there's any concern there. The internal bore itself was nothing more than carbon being scraped off, so there's no issue there at all.
I have had repeated issues with my Sprinter engine stalling and losing power. Two trips to the dealer, replaced all the fuel injectors, problem continues. Today I carefully followed your excellent video and cleaned the EGR valve, which with 29k miles was thick with carbon. Time will tell if this helped resolve the issue.
If it was my Sprinter I would be very careful with use of abrasive pads and wire wheel and vacuum out any debris. Scotch-Brite and similar abrasive pads contain nylon, aluminum oxide or titanium dioxide. Lose wires from a wire wheel are also a risk. It is not good to have those contaminates ingested back into the intake system and then into the combustion chambers. It may be a minor amount but why risk increased wear on an expensive engine.
You did such a great job, and Sprinters need so much service, can you post a video for each “P” code that you fix? Particle filter, pressure high/ low, o2….
@@spddd79the vehicle will periodically feel like a jerking or a transmission problem but is just a sooted up valve. These are way bigger than the old ones on older cars that plugged into the valve covers. We notice it the most when letting off the gas pedal then stepping on the pedal you will feel the whole unit shutter or jerk! It will get worse over time and completely goes away after cleaning! Hope that helps!!!
It’s an extra step and I feel you gain no real benefit removing the hoses. It’s just as awkward on the bench as it is attached to the truck. Plus, you don’t have to open the coolant system and deal with coolant spilling on everything.
Just did this on my 2019 Sprinter with 75,000 miles. The dealership had nothing to offer when I explained the issue with acceleration hiccups at roughly 1750 RPM. As soon as I cleaned the EGR Valve the issue went away.
@Huey866 do you have the torque specs for the 4 bolts holding the EGR? About to do this tomorrow with my dad on his van. Consider me a rule follower, just like to make sure everything is exactly as it should be
I do not, i just go hand snug then give the bolt about 1/8th of a turn in a star pattern. The extra turn puts a bit of a "crush" on the gasket to seal it.
My EGR is really stubborn to come out. I hit it with a hammer as you suggested in the video, What else can you recommend on how to remove the EGR? Thanks.
You just have to keep working on it. The first one I ever did was on a 2015 with 170,000 miles. Spent 45 minutes tapping it back and forth as it slowly twisted in the block. I had to use a punch to tap it from the back (avoid hitting the exhaust temp probe behind it) to tap it back the other direction. Eventually I could get two screw drivers in and spent another 10 minutes slowly working it up. It might be worth it to run the engine for a bit before trying to remove it, it might help break the carbon that's wedging it into place.
Preferably no prying on it can cause a leak. Spray a little bit of rust penetrating oil. Use a rubber mallet to hit back and forth then pull it up while hitting it with the mallet.
I ended up removing the two safety torx on the top of the valve that hold the actuator into the block with coolant flow and threaded two of the four longer EGR hold down bolts into the two holes. They bottomed out on the manifold where the EGR mounts, then quarter turns on each gently pressed the EGR out. It worked exactly like taking off a stuck brake rotor by threading a bolt into the 8mm threaded holes made for that purpose.
I have a 2021 Sprinter 3500 on a 2022 motorhome. From day one the engine would surge on acceleration from a stop. Dealer cleaned and rested the valve at about 12,000 miles. Some of the surgs seemed like the engine was starved for fuel. About 5,000 miles later symptom returned. Now at 22,000 miles dealer wants to test and clean again. I would prefer replacement. Normal use is day long use at Interstate speeds. I have talked with numerours Sprinter motorhome owners some well in excess of 35,000 miles, who have not experienced this issue. Your excellent video refers 80,000 miles more common on a fleet of 40 units. Have you run across cleaning does not resolve the problem?
I have the same van but after cleaning, it only lasts about 3-4000 miles and it starts sticking again. That seems a little ridiculous, what am I doing wrong? This problem started at about 5000 miles, sent it back to the dealer, they cleaned it and basically said there is nothing they can do.
Had the same issue on mine cleaning did not help for very long, I was told from dealership to wait until my warranty is over and remove the DEF system, which I thought it was odd and quite frustrating since my warranty is until 200 000kms. Had to fight with them a little to get a replacement and source the updated EGR valve. After replacing it I spoke with the Mercedes Tech about how to avoid problems again and he told me to make sure that when I drive to step on it and make sure that the turbo gets real hot and spools. He told me that these problems aren't showing to the Working vans meaning people drive their companies van harder then the average Van owner. I've listen to the man every since and 30 000kms later no other issues, I'm watching this video to see if I could inspect it myself. Hope it helps, I was left disappointed when it happened to me almost had me selling it.
This video is exactly what I needed. I may use some shop towels to avoid the brake clean overspray but that's an easy fix. Question: Do you always replace the gasket, or can you reuse the old one if it's good shape?
Blue Driver does a good job at seeing most things anyone would need to see on the 907. It's not perfect by any means, but it's gotten me out of a pinch times.
It seems to me where the valve would hang up is UNDERNEATH the blades and the openings into the valve body. Very hard to clean. It does not seem like cleaning the top of the blades is going to make much difference. I imagine a small tool of some kind and cleaning the back of the blades may make it more effective. Any thoughts on this?
Awesome video. Clear, simple, and to the point. It's easier to clean/maintain the egr than to maybe have replace/rebuild a turbo down the road......pretty sure. Thanks.
From what I can tell , if you have the 4 cyl. Diesel, your screwed because the EGR is not accessible without removing allot of parts. Requires hours to get to and then reassemble.😓
Who are not able to get a stock EGR pump out!!! I had so hard time to get it out. Nothig helped , no hammer, no nothing. Removed the hose that slosest to the passenger fender and used an air compressor's hammer pushing it out. As soon as it moved it I put a screwdriver fom an opposite side and continued lightly to push EGR out with the air hammer. Thats it. I have 3 liters, 6 cyl, 2018 MB Sprinter
Sounds like it was a violent experience. There is a way to screw Jack the EGR out of the housing, it requires removal of the motor, but I try to not do that because there's a dampener bushing that always falls apart when it's removed. Valve is junk without this bushing. I've seen them more and more readily available on eBay so I'll revisit the situation in the future for the occasional stubborn valve.
@@Huey866 Ninety-something dollars with a seal on Ebay. I think it is acceptable price. I ordered just the seal. The valve is ok. Put it in a can with diesel fuel overnight, did not look yet how is it.
Maybe. Technically, either one works…. I don’t see the need to add expense and more chemicals to my chemical closet for what is, probably, marginally better results.
@@Huey866 Brake cleaner can damage the o-ring seals in the EGR. Carb cleaner will not. Carb cleaner is formulated to dissolve fuel deposits. The EGR is made to tolerate petroleum based compounds.
@@Huey866 Brake cleaner can damage the O-rings and seals. The EGR valve components are designed to tolerate petroleum based cleaners. Carb cleaners are compounded to dissolve petroleum based deposits. At the cost of a MB EGR valve ($600 or more) $4.00 for a can of carb cleaner or $10 for a can of EGR valve cleaner is worth it.
@@idadho I’ve done this exact procedure well over 200 times in the last 2 years. Some of our 2019 trucks are well into the 200k mile range, those valves have been cleaned multiple times. No adverse problems yet.
@@Huey866 Mine is under warranty for 8 years or 100,000 miles. MB tells me that I do nor risk my warranty if I follow their instructions to use carb cleaner.
The perfect answer is yes. The real answer is not necessarily. If you have the gasket on hand, yes replace it. If you’re in a pinch, emergency situation, or unavailable due to our wonderful supply shortages, then I don’t see a problem reusing the gasket at least once. I’ve done it a handful of times, I just try to not make a habit of it.
@@Huey866 yeah I ended up reusing then my a/c compressor pulley bearing exploded a month later and destroyed the belt I’ve never seen that happen before 😂
@@garden0fstone736 I’ve actually had the A/C pulley bearing explode before. Happened 3 times before I caught the pattern of failure. Seems to happen somewhere between 180,000 and 220,000 miles. I think it has to do with belt wear and harmonics from the power steering pump, the compressor pulley bearing just takes a beating from it. I always make it a habit to replace the main drive belt at 80k, then at 160k I replace the belts, tensioners, and idlers. That will usually give me to 200k to either replace the pulley or the compressor if there’s too much corrosion to get the pulley off.
@@Huey866 dude no way I’m at 160 and it happened. Started noticing some metal grinding noise then started blowing hot and i started seeing piece fly out in my mirror. The thing just completely broke like 20 yards from the shop and completely chewed the belt. Sucks cause I have a load in the back
@@garden0fstone736 Last time it happened truck was at 220k, and 3 hours away. After an $800+ tow bill, and way too long of a day for the driver, I decided 200k was the maximum I’d let it go. Parts to do the swap no more than $550, thats refrigerant, O-rings, and the Denso Compressor. But that’s leaving out the $1000 or so in tools to do everything legit and legal. It’s just cheap insurance that saves down time.
Sometimes, it just takes time. The first one I ever did, I spent about 45 minutes just tapping it back and forth. This was on a 2015 Sprinter 3500 with 170,000 miles. EGR valve had never been out of it.
I ended up removing the two safety torx on the top of the valve that hold the actuator into the block with coolant flow and threaded two of the four longer EGR hold down bolts into the two holes. They bottomed out on the manifold where the EGR mounts, then quarter turns on each gently pressed the EGR out. It worked exactly like taking off a stuck brake rotor by threading a bolt into the 8mm threaded holes made for that purpose.
@@MrBobsVids I was struggling and I put it back together for now as I was to the point of screwing it up. I will try that method, I thought about it but wondered why no one else suggested it?
@@Mikeybike I don’t know why it is not known by we non-professional mechanics as the primary method to get the valve out. Once I figured it out I concluded that the unit is designed to be removed by Mercedes technicians this way, mostly because they don’t have time to fiddle and bang on it and wriggle and pound screwdrivers in there. Way cleaner, safer, and faster to just ease it out by turning two bolts.
It seems to be a code that comes and goes with our vans as well. It doesn’t seem to effect performance and it usually self clears. I have a theory that Mercedes is asking too much of the EGR valve (and cooler), and they’re just putting too much heat through it to satisfy emissions. Not much has changed in the design for 15 years or so. I’ve read a couple of articles that Mercedes has actually retired the 0M642, in the sprinters, for 2023 and moving to a more powerful 4 cylinder. My guess is they are, more or less, going to let the current EGR and emission system problems work themselves out through obsolescence. I’ve had a handful of service writers around the country agree with me on this theory.
I’ve looked at a lot of these vids but yours is the most clear and concise. Thanks!
This is the best video because his hands don't cover up the work and the video instructions are clear to understand for a newbie with good audio too, New subscriber,
Excellent video, my van has about 28,000 miles 2022 v6 diesel sprinter. Using your video I’ve cleaned it at about 15,000 20,000 23,000 24,000 and now it’s doing the about 1,500 rpm buckaroo like it does every time the egr is dirty. Dealer refuses do replace it under warranty because there is no codes.
What exactly does it do at 1500 rpm?
Excellent demonstration Sir! Keep the Sprinter videos coming . Hopefully you will do a brake job and transmission service video.
I greatly appreciate your detailed explanation on how it’s done. Took care of it myself and saved a boat load of money. FYI I have a 2022 sprinter
Great video. I would add including the size of the socket for the bolts would be helpful. I would also have suctioned out any dirt and dust after sanding.
The size E10 was mentioned during the filler neck removal. All of the bolts are E10 so I didn't feel the need to mention it again. If you have some good buildup on the mounting surfaces, I could see taking more care with managing debris. Fortunately, this particular truck was pretty clean, so I don't feel there's any concern there. The internal bore itself was nothing more than carbon being scraped off, so there's no issue there at all.
I have had repeated issues with my Sprinter engine stalling and losing power. Two trips to the dealer, replaced all the fuel injectors, problem continues. Today I carefully followed your excellent video and cleaned the EGR valve, which with 29k miles was thick with carbon. Time will tell if this helped resolve the issue.
If it was my Sprinter I would be very careful with use of abrasive pads and wire wheel and vacuum out any debris. Scotch-Brite and similar abrasive pads contain nylon, aluminum oxide or titanium dioxide. Lose wires from a wire wheel are also a risk. It is not good to have those contaminates ingested back into the intake system and then into the combustion chambers. It may be a minor amount but why risk increased wear on an expensive engine.
What do you suggest for the carbon inside instead?
You did such a great job, and Sprinters need so much service, can you post a video for each “P” code that you fix? Particle filter, pressure high/ low, o2….
I'll do my best as they come along.
Thank you, sir! I have the shifting issue and will try this, 2016 3500 3.0 v6 71,000 miles!
Did it help your shifting issue?
Totally fixed my issue, will do this again when it clogs up again!
What exactly was the shifting issue?
@@spddd79the vehicle will periodically feel like a jerking or a transmission problem but is just a sooted up valve. These are way bigger than the old ones on older cars that plugged into the valve covers. We notice it the most when letting off the gas pedal then stepping on the pedal you will feel the whole unit shutter or jerk! It will get worse over time and completely goes away after cleaning! Hope that helps!!!
You are greatness … will the engine light reset itself
2015 sprinter 3500
I have like the same one as yours. Did the light go out. Any updates?
OMG this Service have a cost of $712 at the mercedes benz dealer, Thanks a lot for this video.
Thank you so much for the video. Was able to get mine done in about 15 minutes and save $450 from Mercedes not having to do it
man you're a real pro, you're the only one who showed me how to do it right. Greetings from Russia.
Great video , on my 2017 sprinter with 160,000 miles I service my EGR every 10k miles , great work vans
Amazing video. Thank you. Why not remove the hoses so you can take the whole thing out?
It’s an extra step and I feel you gain no real benefit removing the hoses. It’s just as awkward on the bench as it is attached to the truck. Plus, you don’t have to open the coolant system and deal with coolant spilling on everything.
This. I just found your video. And fixed my 2020. No more bucking at low rpm. You are awesome!
Hey man, thank you for making this video. Seriously.
Great video. I like the details on each aspect. Even removing the electrical connections…since most are different…and usually can’t see them.
Thank you for such a clear description of the process. I actually think I can do this hen the time is right. 👌
Just did this on my 2019 Sprinter with 75,000 miles. The dealership had nothing to offer when I explained the issue with acceleration hiccups at roughly 1750 RPM. As soon as I cleaned the EGR Valve the issue went away.
Dealers = sellers. IMHO
Egr cleaning is free at the dealer with a unlimited warranty extension
Great video. My local MB dealer charged me $670. To do that!
Dealer, for a truck in Pennsylvania, charged me close to $500. I feel your pain.
Nice work and a great video. Really appreciate the non-obvious tips.
@Huey866 do you have the torque specs for the 4 bolts holding the EGR? About to do this tomorrow with my dad on his van. Consider me a rule follower, just like to make sure everything is exactly as it should be
I do not, i just go hand snug then give the bolt about 1/8th of a turn in a star pattern. The extra turn puts a bit of a "crush" on the gasket to seal it.
Great vid, thanks! What is the average interval between these operations?
I'm doing every 10-15 thousand
Great video. Thank you. Awesome detail and explanation.
My EGR is really stubborn to come out. I hit it with a hammer as you suggested in the video, What else can you recommend on how to remove the EGR? Thanks.
You just have to keep working on it. The first one I ever did was on a 2015 with 170,000 miles. Spent 45 minutes tapping it back and forth as it slowly twisted in the block. I had to use a punch to tap it from the back (avoid hitting the exhaust temp probe behind it) to tap it back the other direction. Eventually I could get two screw drivers in and spent another 10 minutes slowly working it up. It might be worth it to run the engine for a bit before trying to remove it, it might help break the carbon that's wedging it into place.
Preferably no prying on it can cause a leak. Spray a little bit of rust penetrating oil. Use a rubber mallet to hit back and forth then pull it up while hitting it with the mallet.
I ended up removing the two safety torx on the top of the valve that hold the actuator into the block with coolant flow and threaded two of the four longer EGR hold down bolts into the two holes. They bottomed out on the manifold where the EGR mounts, then quarter turns on each gently pressed the EGR out. It worked exactly like taking off a stuck brake rotor by threading a bolt into the 8mm threaded holes made for that purpose.
I have a 2021 Sprinter 3500 on a 2022 motorhome. From day one the engine would surge on acceleration from a stop. Dealer cleaned and rested the valve at about 12,000 miles. Some of the surgs seemed like the engine was starved for fuel. About 5,000 miles later symptom returned. Now at 22,000 miles dealer wants to test and clean again. I would prefer replacement. Normal use is day long use at Interstate speeds. I have talked with numerours Sprinter motorhome owners some well in excess of 35,000 miles, who have not experienced this issue. Your excellent video refers 80,000 miles more common on a fleet of 40 units. Have you run across cleaning does not resolve the problem?
Thank you for the video. I'm hoping my 08 (with the same basic 3.0 diesel V6, minus DEF) is the same... I'm getting a related CEL.
I have the same van but after cleaning, it only lasts about 3-4000 miles and it starts sticking again. That seems a little ridiculous, what am I doing wrong? This problem started at about 5000 miles, sent it back to the dealer, they cleaned it and basically said there is nothing they can do.
Had the same issue on mine cleaning did not help for very long, I was told from dealership to wait until my warranty is over and remove the DEF system, which I thought it was odd and quite frustrating since my warranty is until 200 000kms. Had to fight with them a little to get a replacement and source the updated EGR valve. After replacing it I spoke with the Mercedes Tech about how to avoid problems again and he told me to make sure that when I drive to step on it and make sure that the turbo gets real hot and spools. He told me that these problems aren't showing to the Working vans meaning people drive their companies van harder then the average Van owner. I've listen to the man every since and 30 000kms later no other issues, I'm watching this video to see if I could inspect it myself. Hope it helps, I was left disappointed when it happened to me almost had me selling it.
FYI through trial/error I’ve found engine degreaser works better than brakleen.
Yes get the dunk tank carb cleaner and let it soak the inside of those flaps
I cleaned mine the same way but have always had a difficult time removing. Didn’t know I could tap on it. Now I do.
This video is exactly what I needed. I may use some shop towels to avoid the brake clean overspray but that's an easy fix. Question: Do you always replace the gasket, or can you reuse the old one if it's good shape?
The gasket you show is not compatible with 2020 3.0L diesels. Which one is?
It is. I've personally used that same gasket on everything from 2017 to 2022.
Mercedes dealers will hate you bro,, everyone watches this video will save 700+tax LoL,,,great work 👍👍
Curious if you have an OBDII scanner tool you use on the 907 Sprinter? If so which one do you have? Thanks!
Blue Driver does a good job at seeing most things anyone would need to see on the 907. It's not perfect by any means, but it's gotten me out of a pinch times.
It seems to me where the valve would hang up is UNDERNEATH the blades and the openings into the valve body. Very hard to clean. It does not seem like cleaning the top of the blades is going to make much difference. I imagine a small tool of some kind and cleaning the back of the blades may make it more effective. Any thoughts on this?
Nice Job! Thanks! How do you do that you keep your hands clean?
Thanks for the vid. I have a 2.1 with the same symptoms. Gonna give it a shot
2.1 is a completely different setup, this video doesn't apply to it. This only applies to the 3.0 V6.
Thank you for the great video! Appreciate the tips and tricks!!
You just saved me big dog! Thank you so much for the video! Very well put together and easy-to-follow! Definitely subscribing! 🙏🏿 ❤️
Torque specs for the egr bolts?
Great job! Very clear and concise!
Great job my brother thankyou so much ! Make some more maintenance vids if ya can very greatful man.
This was the best video for showing the proper way for cleaning the Sprinter EGR valve.......period [drop the mike]🎤
would there be any benefit to using some hi-temp lub on the outer portion of the valve body (where it inserts into the housing)?
Can't believe you didn't vacuum after you wire wheeled the bore.
Do you ever apply anti seize on the body?
Awesome video. Clear, simple, and to the point. It's easier to clean/maintain the egr than to maybe have replace/rebuild a turbo down the road......pretty sure. Thanks.
At what mileage should you clean the EGR valve? I have 43,500 miles on my Sprinter?
Now would be a good time to do it. I'm going to try and do it every 20,000 mile service, but I wouldn't go anymore than 40,000.
@@Huey866 thanks!
Super vidéo merci beaucoup de ces bonnes explications
From what I can tell , if you have the 4 cyl. Diesel, your screwed because the EGR is not accessible without removing allot of parts. Requires hours to get to and then reassemble.😓
Do you have to unplug the battery to do this?
Thanks very much for this video, very helpful!
You are simply the best...i will do mine also..eye opening
What liquid do you recommend to clean the valve?
Who are not able to get a stock EGR pump out!!! I had so hard time to get it out. Nothig helped , no hammer, no nothing. Removed the hose that slosest to the passenger fender and used an air compressor's hammer pushing it out. As soon as it moved it I put a screwdriver fom an opposite side and continued lightly to push EGR out with the air hammer. Thats it. I have 3 liters, 6 cyl, 2018 MB Sprinter
Sounds like it was a violent experience. There is a way to screw Jack the EGR out of the housing, it requires removal of the motor, but I try to not do that because there's a dampener bushing that always falls apart when it's removed. Valve is junk without this bushing. I've seen them more and more readily available on eBay so I'll revisit the situation in the future for the occasional stubborn valve.
@@Huey866 Ninety-something dollars with a seal on Ebay. I think it is acceptable price. I ordered just the seal. The valve is ok. Put it in a can with diesel fuel overnight, did not look yet how is it.
How about using black nitrile gloves to protect your skin?
Awesome video!
Thanks so much 😊
Good Work, I will do it also, Klaus from Germany 😊
Mercedes Benz USA says to clean it with carburetor cleaner. That should break down the carbon better than brake cleaner.
Maybe. Technically, either one works…. I don’t see the need to add expense and more chemicals to my chemical closet for what is, probably, marginally better results.
@@Huey866 Brake cleaner can damage the o-ring seals in the EGR. Carb cleaner will not. Carb cleaner is formulated to dissolve fuel deposits. The EGR is made to tolerate petroleum based compounds.
@@Huey866 Brake cleaner can damage the O-rings and seals. The EGR valve components are designed to tolerate petroleum based cleaners. Carb cleaners are compounded to dissolve petroleum based deposits.
At the cost of a MB EGR valve ($600 or more) $4.00 for a can of carb cleaner or $10 for a can of EGR valve cleaner is worth it.
@@idadho I’ve done this exact procedure well over 200 times in the last 2 years. Some of our 2019 trucks are well into the 200k mile range, those valves have been cleaned multiple times. No adverse problems yet.
@@Huey866 Mine is under warranty for 8 years or 100,000 miles. MB tells me that I do nor risk my warranty if I follow their instructions to use carb cleaner.
Where can I buy the gasket from ?
I’m having so much trouble getting the sensor out
why does it have a vw coolant ball
My experience with Sprinters start with 2015 models, but, they've all had that same coolant reservoir.
You are good, thanks mate!
Do you absolutely have to replace gasket?
The perfect answer is yes. The real answer is not necessarily.
If you have the gasket on hand, yes replace it. If you’re in a pinch, emergency situation, or unavailable due to our wonderful supply shortages, then I don’t see a problem reusing the gasket at least once. I’ve done it a handful of times, I just try to not make a habit of it.
@@Huey866 yeah I ended up reusing then my a/c compressor pulley bearing exploded a month later and destroyed the belt I’ve never seen that happen before 😂
@@garden0fstone736 I’ve actually had the A/C pulley bearing explode before. Happened 3 times before I caught the pattern of failure. Seems to happen somewhere between 180,000 and 220,000 miles. I think it has to do with belt wear and harmonics from the power steering pump, the compressor pulley bearing just takes a beating from it. I always make it a habit to replace the main drive belt at 80k, then at 160k I replace the belts, tensioners, and idlers. That will usually give me to 200k to either replace the pulley or the compressor if there’s too much corrosion to get the pulley off.
@@Huey866 dude no way I’m at 160 and it happened. Started noticing some metal grinding noise then started blowing hot and i started seeing piece fly out in my mirror. The thing just completely broke like 20 yards from the shop and completely chewed the belt. Sucks cause I have a load in the back
@@garden0fstone736 Last time it happened truck was at 220k, and 3 hours away. After an $800+ tow bill, and way too long of a day for the driver, I decided 200k was the maximum I’d let it go. Parts to do the swap no more than $550, thats refrigerant, O-rings, and the Denso Compressor. But that’s leaving out the $1000 or so in tools to do everything legit and legal. It’s just cheap insurance that saves down time.
Merci pour votre aide 👍
Thank you! Good video!
Great job.
Couldn’t get the valve out.
Sometimes, it just takes time. The first one I ever did, I spent about 45 minutes just tapping it back and forth. This was on a 2015 Sprinter 3500 with 170,000 miles. EGR valve had never been out of it.
I ended up removing the two safety torx on the top of the valve that hold the actuator into the block with coolant flow and threaded two of the four longer EGR hold down bolts into the two holes. They bottomed out on the manifold where the EGR mounts, then quarter turns on each gently pressed the EGR out. It worked exactly like taking off a stuck brake rotor by threading a bolt into the 8mm threaded holes made for that purpose.
@@MrBobsVids I was struggling and I put it back together for now as I was to the point of screwing it up. I will try that method, I thought about it but wondered why no one else suggested it?
@@Mikeybike I don’t know why it is not known by we non-professional mechanics as the primary method to get the valve out. Once I figured it out I concluded that the unit is designed to be removed by Mercedes technicians this way, mostly because they don’t have time to fiddle and bang on it and wriggle and pound screwdrivers in there. Way cleaner, safer, and faster to just ease it out by turning two bolts.
@@MrBobsVids I have removed mine and it went well and I'm thankful I read your comment as I was starting to lose hope. Thankyou your comment helped.
Thanks my friend ❤❤🇬🇷🇬🇷
Nice job sir.
Thank you 🙏
Nice! Thanks!!
Bravo 👏
Great tutorial thanks for sharing the knowledge man
Why not take a propane torch flame to burn off the carbon?
Awesome video! My buddy owned a Tranny shop and never wore gloves for 30+ yrs. Long story short he got cancer from brake cleaner…
Great video thx!
Excellent!!!
Yours came out easy but mine will not budge
Thanks
Ay Have Two Thousand Eleven Sprinter Mercedes Bad I Have tu EGR Is Very Time What Are We Do To Take Mouse
Hello Huey, I have engine light on my 2020 V6 2500 Sprinter
code P2457
EGR Cooler "A" Efficiency Below
Threshold. Any info will be helpful
It seems to be a code that comes and goes with our vans as well. It doesn’t seem to effect performance and it usually self clears. I have a theory that Mercedes is asking too much of the EGR valve (and cooler), and they’re just putting too much heat through it to satisfy emissions. Not much has changed in the design for 15 years or so.
I’ve read a couple of articles that Mercedes has actually retired the 0M642, in the sprinters, for 2023 and moving to a more powerful 4 cylinder. My guess is they are, more or less, going to let the current EGR and emission system problems work themselves out through obsolescence.
I’ve had a handful of service writers around the country agree with me on this theory.
K Give Me en Idea tu Remove Coming Easy The Way You Take
Please ay don Know What Do You To Take Mouse Very Heart
Too lazy to take off the coolant lines, and now there's all that mess inside the engine bay, instead of taking the EGR over to the parts cleaner.
Delete
The best video clear and concise ❤❤❤❤❤❤