SAme here. Cant do it hot, cant get a remote on the starter due to equal length headers, no help to be had Have to remove the bottom pulley and put a crank socket on to turn it over. Huge pita.
If turning the box end wrench loosens or tightens lash, when locking it down in place, WHY are you not just holding the wrench perfectly still while tightening down the allen screw. That's the way I always did my big block Chevy. Wouldn't turning the wrench tighter as you tighten the lock screw close the gap a bit?
You are correct. It does close the gap a bit. I always account for it and check it after to be sure it's where I want it. I do mine this way to ensure a good lock. Have not had one back out on me yet 😁
Havent driven mine in 4 yrs due to back pain cant lean over the fender but refuse to put puzzie hydraulic cam in. Maybe I need a st legal dragster such as yours.
Looks like your setting your COLD lash at the HOT lash spec, disregarding the increase in lash as the motor heats up to operating temp. Shouldn't you set your COLD lash a few thousands tighter than the Hot lash spec to accommodate the lash increase when the motor heats up???
If it runs on alcohol it may not get that hot anyway. My big block Chevy on alcohol starting line temp was 160, finish line temp was 145. Waterpump off, fans off. I had to open a ball valve to the intake creating a vacuum leak, and pull the fuel shut off cable a bit to try and lean it out on the return road to keep some heat in it.
I didn't get that Cam card with my motor...it's a big block With a pretty radical Cam... Should I stay in the numbers that you are doing 🤔 I have no clue were too start.....
Hi Brad, that's tough. The proper lash depends on many factors from the cam design, valve springs, and the material of your valve train, like steel vs aluminum rocker arms, iron heads vs aluminum heads, and are they are on iron block or aluminum block. All the different metals grow and expand and different rates and amounts. That's why it's critical to get that info from your engine builder if you can. Now, since you don't know, if I were you I would start by taking a measurement of what the current lash is. You might find that most them are close to the same number. That could give you a good idea of where they are and should be. So if they are all mostly all say .024 on your intakes, keep that as your number. What your really looking for here is, do you have on that WAY off. If you find that one of them is .050 then you might have something wrong like a bent pushrod or cracked rocker arm, etc. The idea is to regularly keep the set where they should be and keep good notes, so that if one goes away you can catch a problem hopefully before it grenades the whole engine. Also, by keeping them consistently set you help keep your engine performing as consistently as possible. Tighter and looser settings changes the performance of the cam as the lifter follows it tighter or looser.
@@diggerstv5325 thanks bro you saved me a lot of money, bout to pull my aluminum heads off my BBC and now I can do it myself with confidence. Thanks again
@@bradnavratil5502 Look up the grind # at the end of the cam when you pull your cam gear off. Chances are its not some trendy tight lash cam....Id bet .020- 022 cold lash would do fine if you have alum heads iron block
When you first got to the racetrack with the motor and you adjusted it and everything was fine and you texted the next time and everything was fine what went wrong that it's loose like to you have a stud girdle in there that will hold it what what's wearing out that's bringing the lift the Gap needing to be adjustable
Been doing this for many, many years. IMHO, it's the only proper way to adjust valves. The old fashioned 90* method will not work with all cams, especially aftermarket, aggressive racing cams....
Well said! Every time I see some forum of YT know it all bragging up his shortcut he never tried it drives me up the wall Do them Once, one at a time and all will be right on the money.
Thank you for posting this succinct video on running the valves. It helps me greatly.
Love these kind of vids keep them coming
thanks for this. Well done. Easy to see on a dragster as well.
Im lucky my engine builder put a cold lash on my cam card and build sheet for me. .020 both intake and exhaust. Great vid!
SAme here. Cant do it hot, cant get a remote on the starter due to equal length headers, no help to be had
Have to remove the bottom pulley and put a crank socket on to turn it over. Huge pita.
Man your the greatest. thanks for this.
Not sure about greatest, lol.
Great video, it helped me out a lot
Thanks for posting this video!
If turning the box end wrench loosens or tightens lash, when locking it down in place, WHY are you not just holding the wrench perfectly still while tightening down the allen screw. That's the way I always did my big block Chevy. Wouldn't turning the wrench tighter as you tighten the lock screw close the gap a bit?
You are correct. It does close the gap a bit. I always account for it and check it after to be sure it's where I want it. I do mine this way to ensure a good lock. Have not had one back out on me yet 😁
@@diggerstv5325Ok, if it works, it works. 👍
Havent driven mine in 4 yrs due to back pain cant lean over the fender but refuse to put puzzie hydraulic cam in.
Maybe I need a st legal dragster such as yours.
Looks like your setting your COLD lash at the HOT lash spec, disregarding the increase in lash as the motor heats up to operating temp. Shouldn't you set your COLD lash a few thousands tighter than the Hot lash spec to accommodate the lash increase when the motor heats up???
I think the engine is hot (gloves)
He said engine is hot, setting it at hot lash
If it runs on alcohol it may not get that hot anyway. My big block Chevy on alcohol starting line temp was 160, finish line temp was 145. Waterpump off, fans off. I had to open a ball valve to the intake creating a vacuum leak, and pull the fuel shut off cable a bit to try and lean it out on the return road to keep some heat in it.
You are correct about HOT vs COLD lash. This was done on a warmed up engine.
I didn't get that Cam card with my motor...it's a big block With a pretty radical Cam... Should I stay in the numbers that you are doing 🤔 I have no clue were too start.....
Hi Brad, that's tough. The proper lash depends on many factors from the cam design, valve springs, and the material of your valve train, like steel vs aluminum rocker arms, iron heads vs aluminum heads, and are they are on iron block or aluminum block. All the different metals grow and expand and different rates and amounts. That's why it's critical to get that info from your engine builder if you can. Now, since you don't know, if I were you I would start by taking a measurement of what the current lash is. You might find that most them are close to the same number. That could give you a good idea of where they are and should be. So if they are all mostly all say .024 on your intakes, keep that as your number. What your really looking for here is, do you have on that WAY off. If you find that one of them is .050 then you might have something wrong like a bent pushrod or cracked rocker arm, etc. The idea is to regularly keep the set where they should be and keep good notes, so that if one goes away you can catch a problem hopefully before it grenades the whole engine. Also, by keeping them consistently set you help keep your engine performing as consistently as possible. Tighter and looser settings changes the performance of the cam as the lifter follows it tighter or looser.
Right on thanks for the info I will be pulling the motor out this Winter Then I will take the Cam right out And have a better look Thanks again....😎
@@diggerstv5325 thanks bro you saved me a lot of money, bout to pull my aluminum heads off my BBC and now I can do it myself with confidence. Thanks again
@@bradnavratil5502 Look up the grind # at the end of the cam when you pull your cam gear off.
Chances are its not some trendy tight lash cam....Id bet .020- 022 cold lash would do fine if you have alum heads iron block
When you first got to the racetrack with the motor and you adjusted it and everything was fine and you texted the next time and everything was fine what went wrong that it's loose like to you have a stud girdle in there that will hold it what what's wearing out that's bringing the lift the Gap needing to be adjustable
Don't drink and text about technical matters.
Why would you adjust valves with the Girdles off? you're going to get "Deflection" when there re-installed & buckled down.
Is it a solid roller ?
Bet it is. Hydraulics use preload usually half turn past 0 lash give or take
Yes, this is a solid roller cam
Been doing this for many, many years. IMHO, it's the only proper way to adjust valves. The old fashioned 90* method will not work with all cams, especially aftermarket, aggressive racing cams....
Well said! Every time I see some forum of YT know it all bragging up his shortcut he never tried it drives me up the wall
Do them Once, one at a time and all will be right on the money.