Seam sealing your tent, the why and how.
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- Опубліковано 31 гру 2024
- I have been lucky to acquire a Nortent Vern 2, however the manufacturers state this needs seam sealing. Not a job I enjoy!
I set off to discover which tent materials need this doing and why. finally I share with you best techniques.
Nortent have an excellent explanation in their book of tents. They do use a cold needle and expanding thread technique, but reading between the lines it seems that a 20D outer due to its stretchier nature, compared to heavier yarns, requires seam sealing.
Some good links:
www.nortent.co...
www.nortent.co...
www.nortent.co...
www.msrgear.co....
3fulgear.com/2...
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Hi Dave, I was looking for you to say about silicone making the fabric stronger and you eventually did so well done... I see this as a key point and the way I also see it is that if the fabric is coated on both sides then its stronger still. I then personally prefer this option of the best fabric strength to weight ratio... Back in the 90s North Face expedition tents all had to be seam sealed like this so I kind of grew up with it and dont see it as too much of a chore.... Great video once again thank you.. Tom
Thanks Tom. I probably should have talked about that earlier and mentioned the fact that apparently PU coatings makes a fabric weaker as opposed to silicone fabrics making it stronger. But you know how it is trying to get all of the relevant points across whilst staying on topic! Hard for my less than nimble old brain... thanks for commenting Tom.
Lovely, informative video, thanks. My first tent, early '90s, Saunders Jetpacker never leaked but i was panicked by too much information and splurged bathroom silicone on the outside seams, which was ugly and probably a waste of time. For my next tent, a Phoenix tent, i calmed down and did nothing but they had taped the inside seams, presumably for public demand. Tapes flaked off, exactly as you say and the tent still didn't leak. My current tent, a very well used secondhand Hilleberg, has a small leak at one stress point in heavy rain, so now know how to do it properly - was a bit overwhelmed by all the info before so thanks for this.
I am glad I could help my friend. Thanks for the tent drive by. Which hillie you on?
@@Fellmandave1 Nallo 2. Nice and simple, bit flappy in the wind but huge amount of space for the weight. Cheers.
Lovely tent. I keep wanting to scratch an itch for a fjallraven abisko lite 2. The up coming nortent ly 2 looks interesting and with 3 poles, side sleeper tunnel, should not be flappy. Heavy though.
Thanks for this, I will seal my Vern 1, ironically when the weather is nice enough to actually do it. Untill then I will be testing it in factory format.
@@madmarshman irony indeed. 15c is recommended for sealant to set if that helps.
I found this discussion of seam sealing, taping, and fabrics helpful. Many utubers cover this topic superficially or with anecdotes, whereas Fellmandave here has tried to get inside it and see what deductions can be made. I still worry about the possibility of what used to be called 'folklore' and inconsistencies of belief, but this was a serious attempt at approaching seam sealing and taping rationally. Thx for posting.
Thanks, its all a learning journey eh. Thanks again for commenting
Thanks for this. I'm just about to re-seal my old Moss Stardome which is still going strong after 28 years of use (including a 5-month camping trip in Canada). My thankless task is to get the old seal (which is flaking) off before re-applying. I'm using alcohol and a rag to try to get as much of it off as possible-the hardest part is to not drink all the alcohol while doing this. Third time I've had to do this over the years. Thanks again for the video.
Sounds like a dreadful job, but we'll done on keeping the tent going!
Hey Dave awesome to see someone approach this subject and demonstrate how to seam seal... I'll have another look at the video later.. Tom
Hi Tom, get back when you have had a good look. The video is doing well so far with -2 subscribers! ha ha ha
A year later and I am crying tears of blood and praying for your soul
There's been a lot more seam sealing since then, I'm surprised you've not needed a transfusion.
With the deft hand of a mongoloid amputee gorilla, I just buy a hilleberg or ( gulp ) Fjallraven……….. No tears of blood but alas, have never had a soul 😘
Thank you for the video. I also have to seam seal my tent. Cheers from Canada!
Glad it was helpful!
I must say, it disappoints big time realizing that a brandnew tent, such as the one by Nortent as you demonstrated, requires resealing/sealing at all, upon purchasing it - what the heck? I am glad I went for the leading manufacturer of tents instead.... thanks for your great and equally instructive contribution though.
Thank you, but to be honest it's not that much of a big deal. I think just nortent are being belts and braces. Thanks for commenting.
I have a French F2 military surplus tent that I just received. You are the first to advocate seam sealing inside and outside. I always thought the same. I’m 72 and going to undertake a 4,000 mile motorcycle adventure with my dog in the spring. Camping not by choice but necessity. 5 month odyssey demands cost cutting. Should I treat the entire exterior or add a tarp fly? Will the “dead” air space between the tent roof and a tarp fly help with summer heat?
Thank you.
Hi Martin. I am not familiar with that tent so don't know, but a double layer is generally warmer. Ventilation and mesh is the key. Trip sounds great though, enjoy!
Seam sealing inside is a waste of time. Only outside matters.
Ive never heard of sealing both inside and out, i usual just do one or the other. With my Macpac tents they recommend sealing on the inside but this is purely for the aesthetics of it. Its easiest to do this is by pitching the tent inside out.
@Fellmandave1 I am going car camping in Ocala National Forest the end of January and the weather should be in the 40s at night and 60s during the day. It may even get a little cooler than that. My 8-year-old tent leaks not only from the top but also from the window areas. I was thinking of getting a 4 mil extra large tarp and covering the tent with it (top and even the windows) and then putting the rainfly on top of that with most likely no Gap. I would raise the tarp above the windows when it's not raining. It rains pretty much every time we go there. Is this a really bad idea? I don't think there will be trees in the spot that we're at so I can't hang it above and too much work to seal this 8 man tent. Should I just buy a new tent? I'd rather go the tarp route because it's so much less $ and the tent still is holding up otherwise. I'm not too concerned about the temperature during the day inside the tent. I'll have the windows open. More concerned about night time temperature and the condensation.
A leaking tent and a flappy tarp in winter sounds like a nightmare. Only way to try is to seam seal, then test. Good luck!
@@Fellmandave1 maybe too many issues with leaks but I'm just wondering if it makes more sense to spend the money on a 10x15 tarp and 4 extendable tarp poles and just keep the tent that I have. Check out the video at the 4 minute and 30 second mark and please let me know your pros and cons. The only downside I see is that it takes up more space because of the guy lines. ua-cam.com/video/NZvH1FBxuNo/v-deo.html
@@stevenscop That really is all about car camping. Would be horrendous in any wind.
@@Fellmandave1 hmm OK thx. I wouldn't use this with any vehicle, just be to protect my tent against the rain. But yeah there could be some fair amount of wind sometimes. Thanks for your advice
I use standard bathroom silikon , diluted with white gas 1:4. White gas is chemically pure Benzine, ”Heptane” or Wash benzin in German, I think. 😅 it works perfectly, and dries much quicker than white spirits. 2h for the whole tent. I do it on rain gear and backpacks as well.
I have white gas too, should have used that! Thanks for commenting.
Ps are you going to seam seal your sydvang?
Fellman your an expert 😊.. no doubt but the inner Mastic man in me says that since its the sewing and holes we want to penatrate aswell vitalise the nylon seam tape then two decent and runny coats of the thinned down premium you use judiciously externally applied should do the job..The mastic man in me reckons you çould skip the inside this way until or unless it's found necessary.. What do you think?
I think you're right Eric. I made a mistake, in wanting to show best practice, I did not discuss the inside vs outside debate. I'm just learning with the rest of us.. Thanks again for commenting.
But you did at least introduce and use the thinners and that's most important for an good seal i should think? as they don't call them thinners for nothing .. they are indeed thinner than water and being an solvent in that state will hopefully allow for just an atmosphere of the agent (the gas) to do its work in vitalising the seam tapes..Regardless its an thankless task seam sealing as we see and we should all be gratefull you took the the time to properly tackle the job..Great video and good advice too Fellman..
Great video, i've just got a scarp. it's been done at the factory. Was just wondering how often should you do this?
Its a good question Jack, I think it depends on amount of use, conditions and quality of your application/ sealant. Signs of it peeling and flaking would be the best indicator 9other than leaks!) . But otherwise with light use 3 -4 years has to be considered. if you find out better (ask tarptent) let us know on here.
@Fellmandave that is what i thought. They haven't done a bad job with it from the factory, but i might just do it again myself since im doing my lanshan anyway. Best make good use of this (rare) nice weather here in england.
Dave, why inside first. I thought outside first, seems logical?😊 Was the seam sealant from nortent enough for inside and out?
I've never had to seam seal my Hilleberge Akto and they use the same process as Nortent in the stitching process.
I just used a separate tube and did not try the Nortent one. Inside and out, well I just went a bit belt and braces. I also have an exped tent that uses the same process, again , no seam sealing . I think I will ask Nortent .
If you don't mind me asking, how long does it take to dry? Do you leave it out overnight or do you take it inside before nightfall?
Depends what time you do it, how thick and the conditions. I would allow a giid six hours but you can feel the tackiness.
@@Fellmandave1 Thank you, I appreciate you taking the time to answer these noob questions of mine :)
And I hope you do not mind a second one. You metioned in one of your Vern 2 videos that you wished the bathtub floor was a little higher. Do you think that the seam between the floor and innertent ought to be seam sealed as well. Just to err on the side of caution?
@ringperm no. Because the inner is not waterproof and would be marginal in its benefit. You could paint a wide section I guess, it's an idea. But further use and testing will reveal this as an issue or not.
@@Fellmandave1 Thank you once again.
@@ringperm No problem, got me thinking too! Thanks very much for the buy me a coffee!
How to tell whether a tent is "siliconized"? 🧐
@caseyalanjones manufacturers spec? Also feels more silky slippery!
1) Every tent ever made needs seam sealing, in addition to additional waterproofing on the fabric.
You might think you get a lot of rain in the U.K., but you ain’t got nothing on us in South Florida and the Everglades…where the water comes down in buckets…for hours.
2) Seam sealers are a total waste of money. You’re better off buying large canisters of silicon (putting them in a gun) and mixing with mineral spirits to thin.
3) Silicon is NOT good for many materials. Won’t work, and will damage the material.
4) ALL seams need additional waterproofing because of the needle holes, and only the exterior of the tent matters. Inside sealing means nothing and is a waste of time.
Thanks for your opinion.