You are the first one that just did the work instead of talking for most part of the video and you get straight to the project on hand thanks so much for that .. You should get better reviews ..You get straight to the point no like other youtoobers.. Great video will use your method on tent im getting thanks ...
Great video thank you. I'm sure there are a few reasons companies don't do it before sell, prob mainly financial. It takes alot of time for someone to unpack, hang, seal, dry, repack send. So if I can save my self 100.00 or more dollars im all for it. Companies aren't asking you to sew the tent together ha. Just seam seal. Great video and info !
It should be perfect weather for it. Just remember to have some talc powder to sprinkle on it before you pack it away just to make sure there's no sticky bits. (I forgot to mention this in the video)
Just take your time and yo'll be surprised it doesn't take long and just leave them to dry. Have some talcum powder ready before you pack them away to rub over any sticky bits if it isn't completely dry so it doesn't stick to itself.
Thank you so much for your video. I just did the job today, on my new Lansham 1 pro, and it's been so easy with your help! And the result is just fine. Thanks again.👍👍
Just bought a Hex Peak V4A from you. Lovely service I must say! Followed your video to seam seal, ready to go out on my trips now. Thank you very much! 🙂
Great video many thanks . One question is there any advantage/ disadvantages to pitching the tent inside out and doing the underside of the stitches? Or am I missing something completely stupid , just ordered my first tent of this type not hot it yet 😁👍🏼
Due to the type of seam that it is, you would find that very labour intensive and no where near as efficient as doing it outside 'before' the water penetrates the stitching.
After all these years, i still find this a great help! I just brought the Lanshan pro 2, do you do the same for a Lanshan pro 2? Would any seam seal tube do? Not sure which kind to use? Got time to work it out. We still have 12 feet of snow in Labrador, Canada lol i must admit i still check out all your videos and the podcast! I do miss the TGO video's you did keep going! Dave from Labrador City Canada
Thanks Dave. Nice words. I've taken a bit of a back step these last 12 months, but I may return to Podcast-Ville yet. I guess the Lanshan is sil-nylon? If so yes I would make sure the silicon you use is for sil-nylon, not just nylon. Gear Aid Seamgrip- SIL is the one.
Am I correct is saying that manufacturers generally use core spun thread with a polyester core for strength and a cotton outer. This thread will swell when wet and thereby seal the needle holes? This should minimise seam leakage. When manufacturers recommend seam sealing they give themselves a 'get out' clause in the event of leaks. I did a golite hex on the inside face of the seams because of the aesthetics.I don't recall it leaking, though I think I have sometimes been sprayed with condensation when the wind has given the tent a good shake. I'd be interested to hear your views Bob.
Thanks for uploading. Will do it to my minipeak2. But to be honest havnt needed to do it straight out the box. Had it up in many downpours & always stayed dry.👍🏻✌🏻
Mr Fraz Out&About The Mini Peak is PU coated so doesn’t need sealing. The only place it might be useful is around the ‘crown’ but that’s just belt and braces.
I have the same question. If your using white sprit to dissolve silicon, then surely, white spirit dissolves silicon? Unless silicon is white spirit proof when it’s cured.
Hi thanks for all your helpful videos. Maybe there's something I'm missing, but why do some manufacturers expect you to seam seal when others don't? I recently contacted Luxe and asked this question and agreed and couldn't give an answer. Many thanks
WAY Ta GO It depends on 2 things. What material the tent is made from (Pu Coated nylon or Siliconized nylon) and how the seams are sewn. If a tent is made using PU coated fabric throughout, then seam sealing tape can be applied with a warm iron during the process. However certain seams made this difficult. Hard to explain the subtleties. Tape will not stick to Siliconized fabric during manufacture and has the be added afterwards. Like a lot of US Cottage manufactured shelters this has to be done as I explain in the video. It is pretty much normal practice in the US. Hope that helps.
Thank you for this video I have a the hex peak on the way to me now and really can't wait to use it. When sealing the tent do you only do the outside or do you have to do the inside too😁👍
Dartmoor Explorer Outside only. Just pay attention to the crown and guy points as shown in the video. Try and do it on a dry day so it has time to dry.
Thanks for the nice video. Two questions : 1. Is there any difference between silnet and plain clear silicone used for sealing kitchen and bathroom tiles? 2. Is mineral / white spirits the same as synthetic turpentine?
Dano S Many people use commercial Silicone in the same way. I can’t vouch if it is exactly the same product with the same properties. Your choice. White Spirit in the UK is used as a paint thinner, which I suspect is the same as Turps elsewhere which is used in the same way.
If you use a commercial silicone caulk make sure it is 100% silicone from a leading manufacturer. Any white spirits or turpentine will thin silicone, as will toluene. There are low odor (low VOC's) mineral spirits available and would be best to prevent off-gassing of the finished product, such as a tent you'll be sleeping in. Like many chemical products, those that are packaged for a specific purpose (such as tent sealing) are incredibly overpriced. One summer, while in high school, I worked for a grease and lubricant company. The packaged and sold over 30 different products by repackaging basic Sunvis 310 oil from the same 55 gallon drums. They purchased the Suvis oil for about 5 cents per ounce and sold a 4 ounce bottle as "specialty snowmobile track lubricating oil" for $16 dollars per bottle. The cosmetic industry is notoriously the same.
The principle is the same, however it is always worthwhile testing in on a small piece of material (like the bag it comes in) to make sure there's no unexpected issues.
I'd put it to the interior site of the tent for aesthetic reasons or doesn't it make sense? Also doesn't the White Spirit remove the silicone of the fabric, when wiping off the spills? Thank's for the tutorial btw
Sibelius Johannes Once the water is in the seams it can appear anywhere via capillary action. So it is best to prevent it getting into the seam in the first place. It’s a very weak solution and I’ve never heard of anyone losing Silicone from the material. Thanks
Just bought same tent, brown one😊. Handy instructions! Cheers from new Dutch subscriber Was wondering if it's a good idea to seal inside as well? Btw consistency also resembles children's hobby glue😊
You can try doing inside but I suspect it will be difficult to make it look neat. The preference is to stop the water getting into the seams in the first place. However 9 times out of 10 these shelters don't actually need sealing. Try it in the rain first if you have chance which will help you decide.
@@TheOutdoorsStation thanks for your reply. I’m new to tents and I bought a Macpac Olympus tent, they recommend sealing the inside seams straight from the tube. I’m not sure if this tent is a sil coated fabric?
At the beginning of the video you can see the thick gungy result on a sample of using it directly from the tube. Yes of you can do it that way, but it won't look neat.
Then you would have people who use it as an adhesive asking why don’t they make it thicker! It’s easier to water it down than thicken it up I would guess.
Thanks for the details on seam sealing. I need to clean off the old seam tape on 2 old Marmot tents. The newer Force 2p tent has 30-denier ripstop nylon, PU coating and ive removed the old tape as best I could. How do I clean, prep, and what should I use to re-seam-seal my tents and any specially tips since I need to do it on the underside? Thankyou 🏕️🌞
Your needs are different to this video as the material is pu coated not sil. I would pull the tape off, wipe it down with white spirit and then apply new tape with the tip of a cool iron over brown paper. However you might find that the current old tape can be rejuvenated by trying the warm iron first. Sometimes this is all that is needed before you pull anything off.
On the tent that you showed as an example of someone applying the Seam sealer directly from the tube, how should one correct that globby mess please? The material is a silpoly tarp used for hammock camping.
Eddie Powell If you have just applied it then if it is still liquid I would carefully scrape it off with a putty knife and use a small amount of kitchen paper. But you would have to be quick and accurate to remove it and not ‘spread’ it. If it has dried in that blobby mess, then I’m sorry you’re stuck with it 😢
Well, at least I wasn't attempting my own brain surgery! I should know better being that I had absolutely zero experience in this task. Should have practiced on an old rain jacket before the more expensive tarp!! Thank you kindly! You have an excellent video presents and have found your niche young man!
I understand what you're asking. I guess for me...if it takes me four hours and the next time we're out in the pouring rain, our weekend isn't ruined, then it's worth it. Your mileage may vary.
Wondering if I can use denatured alcohol to thin the silicone instead of spirits because I don't want to buy a container of spirits to only use a small amount. I always have the alcohol around for stove fuel.
My tent has the sealant on the inside now it dried and is coming off, should I put the new sealant t on the outside or put the tent upside down and do it on the inside?
If you are referring to sealing 'tape' which has peeled, then your tent is PU Coated, NOT Silicone Coated on that side. You can try using the tip of a warm iron over some brown paper over it, which may warm the glue and re-stick it. (i've done that loads of times) or if you have peeled it off, you can clean it, buy some seam sealing tape and apply a new length using the same 'warm iron' method. Or buy some standard sealant (not silicone based) and use the same method shown in this video to put it in place of the tape.
Glad I found your channel. I am a compulsive tent buyer and have just bought another at a great price off Ebay but it needs all the seams sealed. I have Silnet but I am worried about the smell of white spirit lingering. Does the smell disappear ? I could go for the odourless but the price is prohibitive for me as it is a big tent. I can do a test on some old ripstop I have but it is always better to ask someone first if you can.
An intriguing idea, but some cautionary notes needed. The presenter certainly projects authority and certainties, and that always makes me wary. The first is that the ratio of Silnet and white spirit should have been known beforehand. 1:1, for example? Ad-hoc ratio looks very amateurish and doesn’t inspire confidence. Not mentioned that the thinner the sealant the less physically robust it will be when the tent flaps in the wind. Sealing a tent should be a ‘once in the life of the tent’ job. The second is that the sealant should be applied on the inside of the tent. This will protect the sealant from UV. To minimise fumes and avoiding working within a confined space pitch the tent ‘inside out’ when applying the sealant. The third is essential, and that is to apply sealant behind the seam fold because water gets in the ‘narrow slot’ and then through the stitching holes. In essence for any pair of stitching lines the sealant is actually applied three times: one each for the obvious stitch lines and a third time in the narrow gap between the folds.
White spirit is a flammable, clear, colourless liquid. It is a mixture of chemicals known as petroleum hydrocarbons. Other common names for white spirit are Stoddard solvent, turpentine substitute, mineral spirit and paint thinner.
Just a quick question - the instructions say to apply to the inside of seam - eg erect tent inside out and then apply? would you recommend against this?
Which instructions? For the shelter or the Silnet? It all depends on how the seams are stitched. Silnet has advice on their website as to which side is advisable.
Stephen - Homeless Truth Seeker No, it would glue the zip together. On canvas I would use a wax based product usually found in tins and rub it on. Or a Granger or Nikwax product.
There are different types of plastic involved here. It is supplied in a plastic bottle and I've never heard of any damage to a shelter. The melted plastic I was referring to relates to mixing it in a plastic margarine tub. Different compound of plastic = different results.
@@TheOutdoorsStation I did it on a sunny day and it was perfectly dry in 4 hours. I tested it in bikepicking with a stormy day and it was perfect! Thanks for the video and the explanations which really helped me. Have a good day!
I'm not asking how to do it, but WHY certain manufacturers don't do it. I am no stranger to camping as I do it for 6 months of the year in numerous countries and have never ever had to seam seal a tent ... I own 16 :-) What prompted this was I was about to buy an F6 thanks to your excellent video, but realised it needed sealing, which as far as I am concerned think should be done before it is sold. Looks to me that they are giving themselves a get out clause and selling something that is not fit for purpose. As I said to Luxe it put me off and no doubt many others too.
WAY Ta GO Once again seam sealing cannot be applied during manufacture of siliconised nylon shelters. Only with PU coated shelters. I suspect your 16 shelters are all the latter. It’s only in the last 10 years or so that shelters have been made with siliconised fabrics. If you research other brands you will get the same answer.
@@TheOutdoorsStation I asked Luxe and they agreed that I had a point. If a purchaser can apply it after sale then there is no physical reason why they can't apply it prior to sale. Thanks again for your channel and responses.
@@potskifilms Physical reason? Possibly not. Practical and financial reason? Of course. Minimum order 500 units for any shelter. Time and man hours taken to open each unit, paint on seam seal, wait to dry, check QC, fold and repackage? End result would be a far higher price per unit to the end user. As everyone is wanting the best value they can get these days, I very much doubt consumers would pay the price when they think 'hang on - 30 mins of my time with the included free Seam Sealing glue and a paint brush and I would have saved myself £XX amount'. I suggest you compare the price of the Luxe F6a to the Nigor WickiUp 3 which is manufactured using a special self sealing Sil fabric (no seam sealing required) and see which price you prefer to pay.
@@TheOutdoorsStation Physical reasons, there are none. As said, if it can be done by the buyer it can be done by the seller. Yes, money, the obvious but not previously mentioned monetary elephant in the room. Luxe said to me btw when asked about this subject "that would make sense". So, if folks buy an unsealed and therefore imo unfinished tent, seal it themselves, then notice a problem with the tent, maybe it still leaks? I am left pondering as to where folks stand warranty wise? Realise you're the man in the middle here Bob, so thank you once again. Right, gorgous here so off out for a walk, should I need to respond but don't immediately. Cheers Wayne .
No as the water is already in the threads and spreading via capillary action to reappear anywhere. It is better to prevent the water getting into the seams, rather than solve it getting out! Also some seams are not an easy shape to coat effectively from the inside, so it is far too easy to miss an area. Water will 'always' find the easiest route, due to the shape of shelters and seams, thus it is very hard to predict if you have given yourself ample protection or not.
Sometimes called a small ‘stipple’ brush. You can usually find them either in a craft shop or childrens paint set. The stiffer the bristles the better to ‘dab’ on the solution.
@@TheOutdoorsStation hhhmm.. I mean, I live in monsoons climate where the sunshine is as intense as the rain. just wondering the seals would stay intact as get heat from direct sunshine
The water is on the 'outside' so you want to stop it getting into the stitching and threads. 'Taped seams' are something completely different and have more to do with the type of seam and the way it was sewed.
get 100% silicone(caulking tubes) from the hardware store and mineral spirits mix 1:1... way cheaper ,same materials !...Silnet is 100% silicone 1.5oz for $8 , while 100% silicone caulk tube of 10 oz at hardware cost $5 , you are just paying more for the branding and packaging in small tubes....dilute 3:1 or thin oil consistency with mineral and spray on the tent or tarp to waterproof the whole thing or help restore the repel features , it even makes a cotton canvas turn almost waterproof if painted/dunked in the solution . it works on many fabrics and leather too.this is no secret, just information out there like many ways to cut a onion when is the same onion. cheers.
Frank C Whatever works. However keep in mind you need very little silicone to do this, so think about what you're going to do with that large tube of waste/land fill, which could be left over after covering a small shelter.
That really depends on the type of seam and how it sewn.What you are trying to do is prevent the water from ingressing into the seams, especially around the guy tie out points. Anything to avoid water transfer via capillary action.
Good job. I’ve just bought a tarp tent which requires this treatment. Thanks for the great info and tip about dilution with white spirit. Does the white spirit work with all brands of sealant? All the best.👍🏾🏕🇬🇧
As far as I know yes. Just enough to make it thick Olive Oil consistency and remember to have some talc powder to sprinkle on the seams of the tent before you put it away, which stops any sealant sticking when folded.
Still relevant even two years later ... Thank you for that ! (Wayne, from France)
Thanks. Glad to have helped :)
You are the first one that just did the work instead of talking for most part of the video and you get straight to the project on hand thanks so much for that .. You should get better reviews ..You get straight to the point no like other youtoobers.. Great video will use your method on tent im getting thanks ...
Thanks. Glad to be of some help.
Exact measurements to use:
3 blobs of silnet
1 splash of spirits
and a child's painting brush....
Just mix it until it's like thick olive oil
Is that an imperial blob or a metric blob?
Technically it's a metric splodge.
Great video thank you. I'm sure there are a few reasons companies don't do it before sell, prob mainly financial. It takes alot of time for someone to unpack, hang, seal, dry, repack send.
So if I can save my self 100.00 or more dollars im all for it. Companies aren't asking you to sew the tent together ha. Just seam seal.
Great video and info !
Thanks, I'm very glad I watched this before starting
Set up my new Hexpeak in the back garden and going to use your instructions and get on with the seam sealing tomorrow!💪😎
It should be perfect weather for it. Just remember to have some talc powder to sprinkle on it before you pack it away just to make sure there's no sticky bits. (I forgot to mention this in the video)
@@TheOutdoorsStation Saw that in other vid yesterday lol! Cheers!
I bought some luxe tents couple weeks ago before valley and peak took over back packing light and I'm dreading doing this on them lol.......good vid 👍
Just take your time and yo'll be surprised it doesn't take long and just leave them to dry. Have some talcum powder ready before you pack them away to rub over any sticky bits if it isn't completely dry so it doesn't stick to itself.
Thank you so much for your video. I just did the job today, on my new Lansham 1 pro, and it's been so easy with your help!
And the result is just fine.
Thanks again.👍👍
Hey! Thank you so much. It was the first time I had to do this and without you my 500€ would have been awfull af. Thanks for the advice!!! Thumbs up!
Fabio Wolf Pierre König No worries. Glad it was some help 👍
Excellent program, I am, currently looking for a new tent, this information helps me a lot , thank you
You're welcome. Glad to be of help.
Thank you. I was about to use the silnet directly from the tube.
dbo 0 Glad to be of service 👍
Decorator/hiker here, tip white spirit into cap first before putting into jar, it's easy to over-pour ;)
Top Tip ! Thanks :)
Just bought a Hex Peak V4A from you. Lovely service I must say!
Followed your video to seam seal, ready to go out on my trips now. Thank you very much! 🙂
Great tip, i am about to seal my Lunar Solo and probably would have done it from the tube.. Many thanks
This is great to see and I'm sure it will benefit your customers.
Thanks for sharing and all the best.
Thanks for your help, i just got a Luxe F8 and i've been dreading messing it up but know it must be done. Cheers and stay well.
Perfectly explained! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thankyou my man, seeling my new ultra light tarp in the morning and needed some tips!
Daniel H No worries. Just take your time and don’t rush and you’ll have a neat tarp to be proud of 👍
Got to do my seamsealing of my tarptent scarp 2 tomorrow
Great video many thanks . One question is there any advantage/ disadvantages to pitching the tent inside out and doing the underside of the stitches? Or am I missing something completely stupid , just ordered my first tent of this type not hot it yet 😁👍🏼
I did that with my winter skin for my fishing bivvy and it worked fine mate.
Due to the type of seam that it is, you would find that very labour intensive and no where near as efficient as doing it outside 'before' the water penetrates the stitching.
After all these years, i still find this a great help! I just brought the Lanshan pro 2, do you do the same for a Lanshan pro 2? Would any seam seal tube do? Not sure which kind to use? Got time to work it out. We still have 12 feet of snow in Labrador, Canada lol i must admit i still check out all your videos and the podcast! I do miss the TGO video's you did keep going! Dave from Labrador City Canada
Thanks Dave. Nice words. I've taken a bit of a back step these last 12 months, but I may return to Podcast-Ville yet. I guess the Lanshan is sil-nylon? If so yes I would make sure the silicon you use is for sil-nylon, not just nylon. Gear Aid Seamgrip- SIL is the one.
Fantastic advice, worked a treat.
Am I correct is saying that manufacturers generally use core spun thread with a polyester core for strength and a cotton outer. This thread will swell when wet and thereby seal the needle holes? This should minimise seam leakage. When manufacturers recommend seam sealing they give themselves a 'get out' clause in the event of leaks. I did a golite hex on the inside face of the seams because of the aesthetics.I don't recall it leaking, though I think I have sometimes been sprayed with condensation when the wind has given the tent a good shake. I'd be interested to hear your views Bob.
Great video/instructions. Thanks for uploading.
Thanks for uploading. Will do it to my minipeak2.
But to be honest havnt needed to do it straight out the box. Had it up in many downpours & always stayed dry.👍🏻✌🏻
Mr Fraz Out&About The Mini Peak is PU coated so doesn’t need sealing. The only place it might be useful is around the ‘crown’ but that’s just belt and braces.
Question. A# lift a folded hem and seal under it, or B # overlap the two panels. ? Many thanks
I thought using a solvent on the outer fly such as white spirits isn't recommended?
I have the same question. If your using white sprit to dissolve silicon, then surely, white spirit dissolves silicon? Unless silicon is white spirit proof when it’s cured.
@@barrysimpson9645 i
Is this mixture generally safe for coleman tent fabric, if so im doing this asap. Great video nonetheless.
Great hints and tips!
Great tips and wonderful video.
Hi thanks for all your helpful videos. Maybe there's something I'm missing, but why do some manufacturers expect you to seam seal when others don't? I recently contacted Luxe and asked this question and agreed and couldn't give an answer. Many thanks
WAY Ta GO It depends on 2 things. What material the tent is made from (Pu Coated nylon or Siliconized nylon) and how the seams are sewn. If a tent is made using PU coated fabric throughout, then seam sealing tape can be applied with a warm iron during the process. However certain seams made this difficult. Hard to explain the subtleties. Tape will not stick to Siliconized fabric during manufacture and has the be added afterwards. Like a lot of US Cottage manufactured shelters this has to be done as I explain in the video. It is pretty much normal practice in the US. Hope that helps.
Thank you for this video I have a the hex peak on the way to me now and really can't wait to use it. When sealing the tent do you only do the outside or do you have to do the inside too😁👍
Dartmoor Explorer Outside only. Just pay attention to the crown and guy points as shown in the video. Try and do it on a dry day so it has time to dry.
@@TheOutdoorsStation Yhank you and thanks for the quick reply have a great new year 😁👍
Tremendous help, cheers😊👍
Thanks for the nice video. Two questions : 1. Is there any difference between silnet and plain clear silicone used for sealing kitchen and bathroom tiles? 2. Is mineral / white spirits the same as synthetic turpentine?
Dano S Many people use commercial Silicone in the same way. I can’t vouch if it is exactly the same product with the same properties. Your choice. White Spirit in the UK is used as a paint thinner, which I suspect is the same as Turps elsewhere which is used in the same way.
If you use a commercial silicone caulk make sure it is 100% silicone from a leading manufacturer. Any white spirits or turpentine will thin silicone, as will toluene. There are low odor (low VOC's) mineral spirits available and would be best to prevent off-gassing of the finished product, such as a tent you'll be sleeping in.
Like many chemical products, those that are packaged for a specific purpose (such as tent sealing) are incredibly overpriced.
One summer, while in high school, I worked for a grease and lubricant company. The packaged and sold over 30 different products by repackaging basic Sunvis 310 oil from the same 55 gallon drums. They purchased the Suvis oil for about 5 cents per ounce and sold a 4 ounce bottle as "specialty snowmobile track lubricating oil" for $16 dollars per bottle. The cosmetic industry is notoriously the same.
awesome video, Just wondering how well this would work on a Polyester tent?
The principle is the same, however it is always worthwhile testing in on a small piece of material (like the bag it comes in) to make sure there's no unexpected issues.
I'd put it to the interior site of the tent for aesthetic reasons or doesn't it make sense? Also doesn't the White Spirit remove the silicone of the fabric, when wiping off the spills? Thank's for the tutorial btw
Sibelius Johannes Once the water is in the seams it can appear anywhere via capillary action. So it is best to prevent it getting into the seam in the first place. It’s a very weak solution and I’ve never heard of anyone losing Silicone from the material. Thanks
Just bought same tent, brown one😊. Handy instructions! Cheers from new Dutch subscriber
Was wondering if it's a good idea to seal inside as well?
Btw consistency also resembles children's hobby glue😊
You can try doing inside but I suspect it will be difficult to make it look neat. The preference is to stop the water getting into the seams in the first place. However 9 times out of 10 these shelters don't actually need sealing. Try it in the rain first if you have chance which will help you decide.
@@TheOutdoorsStation Cheers! Did some more research and came to same conclusion. Will do outside. I'm very patient so should be nice chore lol
Would be interesting if can use regular silecon
You can and mix the same
Hook up music starts at 6:19 Yea Baby Yea!!
tent porn!
Hi, great video. Do we seam seal the inside of the tent seams or the outside or both?
The general practice is to seal the ‘sil coated’ fabric on the outside.
@@TheOutdoorsStation thanks for your reply. I’m new to tents and I bought a Macpac Olympus tent, they recommend sealing the inside seams straight from the tube. I’m not sure if this tent is a sil coated fabric?
Can I just use the silicone straight. Do I need to add the thinner, it seems counterproductive.
At the beginning of the video you can see the thick gungy result on a sample of using it directly from the tube. Yes of you can do it that way, but it won't look neat.
Why don't they make the sealant a bit thinner to start with so it spreads more easily?
Then you would have people who use it as an adhesive asking why don’t they make it thicker! It’s easier to water it down than thicken it up I would guess.
Hi, will it work on 210T polyester fabrics tent sheet? As it's not nylon.
Very useful
Thank you :)
Glad it helped. Happy camping
Merci beaucoup, vous m'avez envité de faire des erreurs.
Thanks for the details on seam sealing. I need to clean off the old seam tape on 2 old Marmot tents. The newer Force 2p tent has 30-denier ripstop nylon, PU coating and ive removed the old tape as best I could. How do I clean, prep, and what should I use to re-seam-seal my tents and any specially tips since I need to do it on the underside? Thankyou 🏕️🌞
Your needs are different to this video as the material is pu coated not sil. I would pull the tape off, wipe it down with white spirit and then apply new tape with the tip of a cool iron over brown paper. However you might find that the current old tape can be rejuvenated by trying the warm iron first. Sometimes this is all that is needed before you pull anything off.
On the tent that you showed as an example of someone applying the Seam sealer directly from the tube, how should one correct that globby mess please? The material is a silpoly tarp used for hammock camping.
Eddie Powell If you have just applied it then if it is still liquid I would carefully scrape it off with a putty knife and use a small amount of kitchen paper. But you would have to be quick and accurate to remove it and not ‘spread’ it. If it has dried in that blobby mess, then I’m sorry you’re stuck with it 😢
Well, at least I wasn't attempting my own brain surgery! I should know better being that I had absolutely zero experience in this task. Should have practiced on an old rain jacket before the more expensive tarp!! Thank you kindly! You have an excellent video presents and have found your niche young man!
Subbed and saved.❤️🇬🇧😊
What if I have a large ten person tent? Is that even worth all the time brushing that solution on there?
I understand what you're asking. I guess for me...if it takes me four hours and the next time we're out in the pouring rain, our weekend isn't ruined, then it's worth it. Your mileage may vary.
Thank you so much!
Can this stuff be used to re-glue a window back in place on a marmot tent?
Marmot has a great warranty check the Marmot web site for information. www.marmot.com/customer-service/warranty-repair.html
Wondering if I can use denatured alcohol to thin the silicone instead of spirits because I don't want to buy a container of spirits to only use a small amount. I always have the alcohol around for stove fuel.
No I don't think that would work. Paint thinners are another solution. So maybe you could get a small amount from a neighbour who is decorating?
My tent has the sealant on the inside now it dried and is coming off, should I put the new sealant t on the outside or put the tent upside down and do it on the inside?
If you are referring to sealing 'tape' which has peeled, then your tent is PU Coated, NOT Silicone Coated on that side. You can try using the tip of a warm iron over some brown paper over it, which may warm the glue and re-stick it. (i've done that loads of times) or if you have peeled it off, you can clean it, buy some seam sealing tape and apply a new length using the same 'warm iron' method. Or buy some standard sealant (not silicone based) and use the same method shown in this video to put it in place of the tape.
Glad I found your channel. I am a compulsive tent buyer and have just bought another at a great price off Ebay but it needs all the seams sealed. I have Silnet but I am worried about the smell of white spirit lingering. Does the smell disappear ? I could go for the odourless but the price is prohibitive for me as it is a big tent. I can do a test on some old ripstop I have but it is always better to ask someone first if you can.
Mark whalebone I’ve never noticed any lingering smell after. I’m sure you’ll not notice anything once you’ve aired the tent to dry.
Thank you!
You're welcome
An intriguing idea, but some cautionary notes needed. The presenter certainly projects authority and certainties, and that always makes me wary. The first is that the ratio of Silnet and white spirit should have been known beforehand. 1:1, for example? Ad-hoc ratio looks very amateurish and doesn’t inspire confidence. Not mentioned that the thinner the sealant the less physically robust it will be when the tent flaps in the wind. Sealing a tent should be a ‘once in the life of the tent’ job. The second is that the sealant should be applied on the inside of the tent. This will protect the sealant from UV. To minimise fumes and avoiding working within a confined space pitch the tent ‘inside out’ when applying the sealant. The third is essential, and that is to apply sealant behind the seam fold because water gets in the ‘narrow slot’ and then through the stitching holes. In essence for any pair of stitching lines the sealant is actually applied three times: one each for the obvious stitch lines and a third time in the narrow gap between the folds.
The White Spirit and Mineral Spirits are these the same?
White spirit is a flammable, clear, colourless liquid. It is a mixture of chemicals known as petroleum hydrocarbons. Other common names for white spirit are Stoddard solvent, turpentine substitute, mineral spirit and paint thinner.
Just a quick question - the instructions say to apply to the inside of seam - eg erect tent inside out and then apply? would you recommend against this?
Which instructions? For the shelter or the Silnet? It all depends on how the seams are stitched. Silnet has advice on their website as to which side is advisable.
Cheers - done inside-out once dry I will erect right way up, and do the guy points and zip/flap. Tent does not have butted seams.
Hi could you use this on the zips of a canvas Dutch army tent?
Stephen - Homeless Truth Seeker No, it would glue the zip together. On canvas I would use a wax based product usually found in tins and rub it on. Or a Granger or Nikwax product.
@@TheOutdoorsStation Is this just for the zipps? Is there a video on it coz i carnt find one. Thanks
Stephen - Homeless Truth Seeker I would contact Nikwax direct if I were you. They will help
@@TheOutdoorsStation ok thanks
Are a splodge, splash and blob new A.I. units?
Oops - S.I units
Is white spirits the same thing as mineral spirits?
Joe Hikes Google implies they are the same yes.
White Spirits = mineral Spirits? Looks like it but wanted to confirm, thanks!
It depends on your country. Sometimes it is called Turpentine or Paint Thinners. Hope that helps?
TheOutdoorsStation yep, mineral spirits did the trick. Sealed my tent today!
If the solvent will melt a plastic cup, I'm concerned it would melt a plastic tent.
There are different types of plastic involved here. It is supplied in a plastic bottle and I've never heard of any damage to a shelter. The melted plastic I was referring to relates to mixing it in a plastic margarine tub. Different compound of plastic = different results.
I know with building silicon, white spirit doesn't remove it, you have to use petrol, it's the only thing I've known to work.
Hi. What is the drying time? Many thanks
That depends on how thick you make the mixture and how warm the temp is when you do it. Normally in the UK it would take half a day or less.
@@TheOutdoorsStation I did it on a sunny day and it was perfectly dry in 4 hours. I tested it in bikepicking with a stormy day and it was perfect! Thanks for the video and the explanations which really helped me. Have a good day!
@@pascalbouju6044 No probs 👍
I'm not asking how to do it, but WHY certain manufacturers don't do it. I am no stranger to camping as I do it for 6 months of the year in numerous countries and have never ever had to seam seal a tent ... I own 16 :-) What prompted this was I was about to buy an F6 thanks to your excellent video, but realised it needed sealing, which as far as I am concerned think should be done before it is sold. Looks to me that they are giving themselves a get out clause and selling something that is not fit for purpose. As I said to Luxe it put me off and no doubt many others too.
WAY Ta GO Once again seam sealing cannot be applied during manufacture of siliconised nylon shelters. Only with PU coated shelters. I suspect your 16 shelters are all the latter. It’s only in the last 10 years or so that shelters have been made with siliconised fabrics. If you research other brands you will get the same answer.
@@TheOutdoorsStation I asked Luxe and they agreed that I had a point. If a purchaser can apply it after sale then there is no physical reason why they can't apply it prior to sale. Thanks again for your channel and responses.
@@potskifilms Physical reason? Possibly not. Practical and financial reason? Of course. Minimum order 500 units for any shelter. Time and man hours taken to open each unit, paint on seam seal, wait to dry, check QC, fold and repackage? End result would be a far higher price per unit to the end user. As everyone is wanting the best value they can get these days, I very much doubt consumers would pay the price when they think 'hang on - 30 mins of my time with the included free Seam Sealing glue and a paint brush and I would have saved myself £XX amount'. I suggest you compare the price of the Luxe F6a to the Nigor WickiUp 3 which is manufactured using a special self sealing Sil fabric (no seam sealing required) and see which price you prefer to pay.
@@TheOutdoorsStation Physical reasons, there are none. As said, if it can be done by the buyer it can be done by the seller. Yes, money, the obvious but not previously mentioned monetary elephant in the room. Luxe said to me btw when asked about this subject "that would make sense". So, if folks buy an unsealed and therefore imo unfinished tent, seal it themselves, then notice a problem with the tent, maybe it still leaks? I am left pondering as to where folks stand warranty wise? Realise you're the man in the middle here Bob, so thank you once again. Right, gorgous here so off out for a walk, should I need to respond but don't immediately. Cheers Wayne .
Wouldn't it be neater to do some of the seams from inside instead?
No as the water is already in the threads and spreading via capillary action to reappear anywhere. It is better to prevent the water getting into the seams, rather than solve it getting out! Also some seams are not an easy shape to coat effectively from the inside, so it is far too easy to miss an area. Water will 'always' find the easiest route, due to the shape of shelters and seams, thus it is very hard to predict if you have given yourself ample protection or not.
What Is this brush called? Searched loads and can't find anything like it.
Sometimes called a small ‘stipple’ brush. You can usually find them either in a craft shop or childrens paint set. The stiffer the bristles the better to ‘dab’ on the solution.
@@TheOutdoorsStation thanks
Any kind of white spirit works ?
whatever you do, don't use ghost spirit, or black spirit!
He appears to be missing the stitching, the bits with all the holes 7:38
If appearance is important, painting it internally would be better.
I prefer doing the job on the outside since I want to prevent the thread from getting soaked with water.
Legend say's got A's for colouring between the lines as a child...
a bird on my shoulder told me you had too seal it twice caused it leaked...lol... ok ..from a friend of a friend...lol
Not if you do it right the first time tell him :)
cant you do the same with clear silecon
You can try I guess. there's plenty of other videos which suggest it works. But every product can be different of course.
Just try it on a useless fabric first or take a part of the tent you can't see to test whether it works.
why applied the seal on the outside instead of on the inside ?
Because thats where the water is 🤔
@@TheOutdoorsStation hhhmm.. I mean, I live in monsoons climate where the sunshine is as intense as the rain. just wondering the seals would stay intact as get heat from direct sunshine
@@dydanz Get silicon made to be used outside, they got uv protection
I thought you were supposed to seal the seams on the inside?
Once the water is in the seams and stitching it will run anywhere via capillary action. Therefore stop the water getting into them is the priority.
I personally find the best way to seam seal a tent or tarp is to buy one that has been professionally heat sealed from factory.
kosys That would be a tent made from PU Coated fabric then. Not Sil-Nylon!
@@TheOutdoorsStation
I guess that's why I never use Sil-nylon. Good to know, thanx.
I thought you’re supposed to seam seal the inside?
The water is on the 'outside' so you want to stop it getting into the stitching and threads. 'Taped seams' are something completely different and have more to do with the type of seam and the way it was sewed.
isn't your spirit's container plastic? -
Johno Vegas True. But not the same compound as a plastic food container for example. I’ve had them dissolve before so hence I suggest glass.
I'd say the most important part is it actually working, not looking good :P
get 100% silicone(caulking tubes) from the hardware store and mineral spirits mix 1:1... way cheaper ,same materials !...Silnet is 100% silicone 1.5oz for $8 , while 100% silicone caulk tube of 10 oz at hardware cost $5 , you are just paying more for the branding and packaging in small tubes....dilute 3:1 or thin oil consistency with mineral and spray on the tent or tarp to waterproof the whole thing or help restore the repel features , it even makes a cotton canvas turn almost waterproof if painted/dunked in the solution . it works on many fabrics and leather too.this is no secret, just information out there like many ways to cut a onion when is the same onion. cheers.
Frank C Whatever works. However keep in mind you need very little silicone to do this, so think about what you're going to do with that large tube of waste/land fill, which could be left over after covering a small shelter.
Isn't it better to seal it on the inside
That really depends on the type of seam and how it sewn.What you are trying to do is prevent the water from ingressing into the seams, especially around the guy tie out points. Anything to avoid water transfer via capillary action.
White spirit and tent fabrics, big no no, easiest way to ruin your high end tent!!!!!
Stuart Cooper Based on what evidence. Please clarify as people and the industry have been doing it for years with no adverse effects?
Good job.
I’ve just bought a tarp tent which requires this treatment.
Thanks for the great info and tip about dilution with white spirit.
Does the white spirit work with all brands of sealant?
All the best.👍🏾🏕🇬🇧
As far as I know yes. Just enough to make it thick Olive Oil consistency and remember to have some talc powder to sprinkle on the seams of the tent before you put it away, which stops any sealant sticking when folded.
@@TheOutdoorsStation Thank you.