Pickup Coil Replacement TPI 350 Firebird
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- Опубліковано 22 кві 2023
- 1988 Formula Firebird originally had 5.0 TBI
Swapped 5.7 TPI from a 1992 Z28 Camaro
In this video, I remove the distributor from my '88 Firebird and replace the ignition pickup coil. I set the ignition timing on the car as well. I set the motor advanced 6 degrees BTDC.
This pick-up coil replacement job is pretty much the same on all Small Block Chevy's.
A simple job that takes about 35 minutes.
This was done on a 350 engine with HEI that has a divorced ignition coil pack.
Symptoms that lead me to do this:
Car would try to push some while on the brake in gear, occasional hard starts when the engine was warm, sometimes no starts, very minimum revs at idle under 200rpms
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305, 350, Tuned Port Injection, TPI, swap, Throttle Body Injection, TBI, 3rd gen, F-Body, third gen, Camaro, Firebirds, Trans Am, Z28, RS, Berlinetta, GTA, Formula, F-Bodies, 82-92, 1982, 1992, 1988, 88, 92
#firebird
#transam
#z28
#3rdgeneration
#camaross
#camaro
#ignitioncoil
#pontiac
#chevrolet
#chevy
#ignitionsystem - Ігри
You should get one made in the USA
What was the problem that led you to believe the pickup coil was bad?
My small block Chevy struggles around 3k RPM - in park and driving; with the accelerator pedal floored, the engine hums loudly, misfires and bogs a lot but refuses to rev more than 3.5k. I was thinking it could be the pickup coil because even though its resistance of about 800ohms fits between the 500 and 1500ohms designated by the factory, some say if it doesn't light a red LED, it's no good.
@soupflood Well, yours sounds more like it's starving for fuel. But!! Then you say it misfires and bogs down....
if yours is fuel injected, I encountered a similar issue. After replacing everything, it ended up being the hose inside the tank that attaches the fuel pump to the feed line on the sending unit. It was dry rotted, and fuel was spraying through in cracks. I have a video on that as well.
Now, what led me to believe it was the pickup coil was a number of things.
I replaced everything. The plugs, wires, a rotor button x2, distributor cap x2, icm x2, reset the timing, etc etc etc etc the list goes on.
My motor was misfiring and stumbling on it's self. Sometimes, it wouldn't start at all. It ran rough as hell, especially in the rain or around any moisture.
Sometimes, it would shut off or act like it only had 4 cylinders.
Unfortunately, it wasn't ever clearly just one clear issue to diagnose with troubleshooting. So I can't point in the correct direction.
A lot of what you're going through sounds kind of the same. Not all, though.
The engine was hard to increase the acceleration. Sometimes, It would pop, or you could floor it, and it was a struggle to get to 3k on the tachometer.
I knew it was the only possible thing I hadn't replaced.
I even pulled all the plugs and checked them again. I replaced the spark plug wires again to see if it made a difference, and it did not.
Even though it was a new distributor with less than 3 thousand miles, I knew it was a cheap product when I bought it.
And it was the only possible part that was left to change.
Going by what I've gone through previously on other cars(Camaros and Firebirds specifically), I remembered encountering this problem before.
Luckily I findly won, and I resolved all the problems.
Well.... those problems... lol, I still have a lot others on this motor.
The pickup coil is a very cheap part. And it's a very easy job. I did this in less than 30 minutes before I went to work.
I hope some of this information helps you in some way. Let me know if you find it!
@@NotAGarage i uploaded the video of how it behaves on my channel if you're curious.
@@NotAGarage i visually inspected the pump hose inside the tank and looks okay, does have fine cracks but not the kind that would go all through it. Even replaced it with a bit of a known good hose used for propane gas tanks, no change.
Replaced fuel filter, no change.
Replacing spark plugs and wires raised the reached RPM a bit.
The computer the engine uses is an Arduino, so I can modify most parameters at will. If I double the amount of gasoline the injectors release for all RPMs after 2k, the engine will rev over 3k sometimes, though it will still bog and misfire around 2.5 - 3k.
I was recommended to check the fuel pressure first, but a new fuel pump is cheaper than the fuel pressure gauge.
What I want to replace is exactly the fuel pump, guess I should fire up that parts cannon already.
@soupflood yeah it doesn't sound a misfire. It's not at operating fuel pressure. It sounds it's idling healthy from what I could hear. I didn't know you had the 4.3. Your TBI might need to be taken apart and cleaned. Maybe replace the injectors? Like i said, it sounds like a fuel issue. I can't hear it struggling at any rpm from the video. It I would think the hose in the tank was damaged or the fuel pump screen, but you replaced those. Maybe plug in a fuel pressure gauge and see what it's operating at and under a load. You could do a simple test by letting it warm up, unplug one of the fuel injectors and see if there is any difference. Then try the other injector. That might push you in the right direction. Have you adjusted the timing??? I saw your cap off. Maybe you rotated the distributor too far retarded and it is struggling. But it doesn't sound too much like a misfire. But if your timing was bumped that would cause trouble to accelerate
@@NotAGarage
Idling is what this engine does best ever since I got it to run... It's a 3.1L V6, not a 4.3 though.
The TBI is clean enough, the injectors seem to spray okay, it's not really the ideal fine mist but then again, it idles okay and that's when the spray needs to be at its finest, right? I visually inspected their screens and they look clean (don't know if there are more screens on the inside though, or if the pintle is blocked). Disconnecting any of the two injectors will immediately cause the engine's RPM to drop harshly (maybe to 500-600RPM not sure but the engine sounds like it wants to die).
I took apart the fuel pressure regulator and tried screwing more and even releasing more the spring which presses on the diaphragm, with no change.
The timing I set on the Arduino is 40° (I tried less and even more but this works best), but I'm not sure what is the real timing on the distributor. The Arduino subtracts degrees from the total timing of the distributor according to MAP readings and RPM. All "40°" are left untouched beyond about 2.5k RPM. Below 1.2k RPM, the Arduino is set to allow for less than 12°. There is 1° for every hundred RPM, plus 15° beyond 1.2k RPM (that's all left in when it reaches 2.5k RPM).
Let's just say I "power timed it"; the engine has more than 230k miles on it.
Do you think the fuel pump for these TBI systems needs to be completely submerged in gasoline in order to last a long time? I saw a video where they opened up one such pump and the gasoline seems to circulate all through the inner workings of the pump. According to that, as long as the engine is running, the pump is fine even if it's not completely submerged.
Sorry if I left a lot of detail about the EFI, it's not even my design. Dielectric videos channel is where I found the plans.
Sweet, sounds good. Can you run an aftermarket distributor on that TPI or does the confuser control the timing?
Yeah the old brain box runs the distributor lol that's why I have to unplug the connector while it's getting warm before I can set the timing. Let's hope..
Let's pray... I don't have anymore issues with these components again. I know I will though lol
@@NotAGarage
The engine sounds like it runs really good when the antique electronics are working. I really like the mechanics of the TPI setup, I will own one of those one of these days. I'll probably use it on a 383 in a truck though, those are suppose to be the king of torque intakes.
Rebuild the original distribution using oem acdelco bushing pickup coil and icm instead of aftermarket junk. The car will run and perform better. Most of the aftermarket distributors fail within 6 months and usually cause intermittent stall issues.
Question:Im installing the same part and the new pickup coil is wrapped in tape,look like paper tape,should you remove the tape or leave it?
I think the tape could get hot and burn or no?
No. That's the shield. It's just covering the wires. It isn't necessarily tape, but it does look like it. It'll get frale and deteriorate over time. A better product will use better heat resistance materials(more than likely).
You should be able to see in this video the pickup coil I removed and install, both have the shield material that looks like tape. The old part I removed had very cheap materials.... not the new part was the best either lol
@@NotAGarage Your tape has like fiberglass,mine is literally paper tape.
They do the same thing on pickup coils in electric guitars,it makes sense though.
Thank you!
@@NotAGarage I was thinking about doing an HEI system since mine is an '87 but I myself don't have the money to do so I just replace what it needs for now.
Just to get it running again,mine is carb since it last year for that and these cars have so many wires and sensors it's kinda intimidating.
Mine was put on the back burner for a while,everythign was replace don the ignition,so hopefully it will have spark because I tested it after all that work and nothing,the pickup coil has to be the part to make it come alive.
@@NotAGarage It's like you dont wanna touch these cars because your afraid if yout ocuh something it's gonna break,there's just too many thing that it needs to make it run.
You look under the hood and it scares you.
I think many of these car have this very same issue, which is why so many sit,either that or the carb is messed up,from water getting in and rusting.
Why is there a million videos on the same freaking motor. 😓
Because it's constantly failing me and leaving *me stranded 😆
Did you have a code or anything?
The engine light did come on shortly before this problem occurred. But I didn't have any codes stored on the ecu when I checked. The strong misfire and the engine not turning over is only why I knew what was wrong. I was confident the ignition pickup coil was the issue. When it did start, the car felt like the engine was running on 2 cylinders, missing extremely rough, pushing the throttle did nothing, and the idle was surging on its own. I've literally replaced everything for the ignition components once or twice already. The pickup coil was the only thing I hadn't changed at this point. Other than when I replaced the whole distributor. As soon as I installed everything, it fired right up. When I started the car in the video, it was literally the first time I tried after I did this repair. I just had to set the timing.