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In-depth Overview of the Creality CR-X
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- Опубліковано 15 сер 2024
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contact@3dprintingcanada.com Jason performs an in-depth overview of the Creality CR-X.
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Follow Us On Social Media:
Facebook: / 3dprintingcanada
Instagram: / 3d.printing.canada
Twitter: / 3dprintingcan
Our Address:
36 Ditton Dr., Unit #3
Hamilton, Ontario
L8W 0A9
Telephone:
+1 (905) 963-9066
Sales Email:
contact@3dprintingcanada.com
Very good review. Is this version just like the CR-10S Pro but having the dual filament option? I'm looking into purchasing one or the other. Maybe Creality needs to make a CR-X Pro?
I have a creality crx and i printing a big model what happen when the filament on left is about to finish the second filament fed the end off the Print? Please need help
6:00, it's called OCD. Thanks for showing us part of your life and Thanks for all your precious time!!!
That was an awesome review. Thank you!
thank you, i am interest
I was looking for this printer but I also saw a lot of complains about it, now its available on banggood, im still trying to decide to get it or not... I was looking for an actual functional review thanks for taking this apart I see they indeed made upgrades, but that means nothing w/o see it printing.
This cr-x already came with tmc 2208 stepper driver?
So.... how is this printer now in may 2019. Were all or at least most of the issues solved? Please someone answer
I'd like to have some more info about integration of fixes from earlier models. How is the z wobble for example? Does it have filament detection? Can you print different materials like abs and ninja flex?
Is it an all mettle hot end
how do you remove the nozzle off this??
Great job!
Ron DLH thanks
Is it working with nylon material?
So i want to upgarde my CR-10S with that flat cable connection made by myself but how are these thin cables able as heater cartridge?
Hua Wei first, this uses 24v, not 12v, so you can get away with thinner wires since you're running less amperage through them. Second, they use multiple conductors in the ribbon cable as a single connection. For example, they may use 4 cables in the ribbon for the +24v connection to the hotend heater, and 4 cables in the ribbon for the ground to the same heater, effectively quadrupling the size of the conductor.
Hopefully this makes sense. Let me know if you need further clarification
Does this printer have a USB port ?
Does this printer actually print?
No it doesn't. 5 years later, and its still just for show
The main controller board is 8-bit or 32-bit?
Still an 8 bit board... :(
Ic thanks for info...
Arduino mega 2560. 8 bit
Could you make a video for replacing the hot end on the ender 3
If you watch the cr10 titan aero video we just posted, it will show most of the steps required, since their construction is almost exactly the same.
Will the Cr-X have a filament sensor like the Cr-10s?
Ali Gonzalez it did not.
60 is not hot enough for bed stiction. this is like Ultrabase the bed NEEDS to be hot (75c) for proper pla stiction. even then mine was a wee "lackluster" just like my ultrabase.
this is also easy to fix. take a little high grit sand paper to the surface a little at a time till you get the stick you like and always alcohol wipe every time you use it. any oils or anything from your hands etc.. will impact stiction.
for tricky parts a little glue stick for security.
Nerys crazy hot. At those temps on any of my other surfaces would cause deformation similar to elephants foot especially on longer prints. Thanks for the advice. I've had more fails due to detached prints than I'd like to admit...even with glue stick...Part of the reason why our first prints and impressions video is taking longer than normal.
I didn't want to sand the surface since I wanted to review it in "stock" form as delivered. Maybe I'll end up going that route.
Jason yes the ultrabase surface needs to be a bit hotter than you might normally use or it just doesn't stick especially if it's air-conditioned
I had the same problem on my I3 Mega and my JG Aurora A5 the prince reference needs to be typically 10 or 15 degrees hotter than you normally would the same applies if you attempt to print directly on glass you really need to be 70 or 75 Celsius at least in my experience and I don't experience I need information elephant's foot or warping you really shouldn't be squishing too much on this print surface he basically kind of dropped the hot filament on to it and that seems to work the best if you squish too much it just peels up under itself as it extrudes
I consider sending to be normal all you're doing is changing the adhesive properties of the printer that's no different than adding gluestick just don't overdo the sanding kind of like removing a glazing on a surface you just scuffing up a surface a little bit thousand grit sandpaper should be enough and of course alcohol clean before every use
60 C is probably enough except the top of the glass will never reach 60 C at least not for a while you lose a bit as a transmitted through so much material
Slicing on the CRX
Dre Dre that's filmed and being edited.
Jason niiiice thanks 👍🏽
Sorry for the delay. It's up: ua-cam.com/video/Dq_Kc0iTURY/v-deo.html
Or you need to set up in cura before print
Can't tell. . . is it a brass nozzle?
For $700+ it definitely should be at least stainless steel for hi-temp and abrasive filaments.
Yes it is brass.
How much that 3d printer is
Paul Cumber please see the video description
I see a want to be 3D Printing Nerd clone nothing compares to the original
T Atneosen I'm not trying to be anything. We're showing new products we carry and how to add upgrades to same.
review and print demonstrations please! This overview was nothing more than what is on their website a review with test prints would really show the quality of this printer
First print - ua-cam.com/video/Dq_Kc0iTURY/v-deo.html