If you don't want to root your printer you can just copy and paste the gcode over and over to que the prints from within one file. Works great! It loses some of the functionality of your system but it is less scary (for me at least). If you throw in some code you can also get it to make purge lines in different spots for every print.
This is amazing gives me alot of ideas for my own printer. I think for me I dont need it to be automatic but I do want to be able to restart the print remotely, while watching it with a camara. This way when away from home for work I can click and restart prints myself!! thanks.
yeah that would definitely be doable. I have smart home plugs on all my printers so I can remotely turn them on or off (you can even make automations for them to turn off after a print is finished based on power draw.) the you can just implement the push off script. Either at the beginning of your new print or as macro in Klipper. 😊 Let me know if you get it to work!
Hey! I just watched it all at ~400 views and got some feedback: - really liked when u explained what did you change and what made things work (like the gcode command to capture 30 degree of the hotbed) rather than: oops not working > I will fix it > oops not working > I will fix it > it works! - I would love to see some b roll or montage of non stop working 3d printer after all video explaining why is it not working rather than 20s timelapse - quality production is super nice altough I think sometimes the music is too loud? idk might be just me You seem like a cool dude, earned a sub! Also, I recently started my journey with 3d printing so I guess YT algorithm is working haha gl mate with your channel
Thanks for the great feedback! Really happy to have you on the channel 😊 And welcome to the 3D printing journey! As for your comments: definitely know what you mean regarding the time-lapse. It was kinda hard to show it in a way that made sense. Especially with the long pauses in between prints... And with the music: I hear you. It's a comment I've been getting a lot... It's a delicate balance between no audible music and too loud 😃 (I'll keep in mind for next time)
@@Arne.Bornheim I found a useful video to at least help understand the issue. If it turns out that you're using premiere pro, good on you, this is basically an easy fix tutorial then. ua-cam.com/video/GBH0BFvCLAA/v-deo.html
I will suggest you using orca slicer. Because creality slicer is kind off reskin for cura if i remember correctly. Orca also has pretty good profiles for ender 3 v3 se/ke And a big comunity
Amazing. Earlier today I was wondering how to do something like this. Printing a HUGEEE sword right now and having to wake up every morning and move it to the next print is annoying because it wastes a lot of time. You deserve way more than 5k subs.
depending on the printer there could be a wipe wall that wipes the whole width at once. I have a Bambu x1c. In thory I could design a wall that is near bed level and I would need move the head behind the bed to activate the wall and leave the door open. It is something to do before it is needed. when I get a chance I will design it.
I’m not sure if G code wise this works the same as CNC machines but if you’re printing the same print just over and over you should be able to just make a simple looping program. So for example with a CNC mill you would replace the M30 with a M99 so it jumps back up to the start of the program and starts over. Google subroutines and sub programs if this runs g code similar you should be able to have a main program that basically has all the programs you want to run listed in it with Gcode to loop through them and call up each program saved in the memory of the machine one after another without the need of a web interface Should be all handled with the code
Yeah, as far as I know, you could just loop the same print no problem! For me, I wanted to be able to put different prints into a queue though, which is a lot more flexible 😊
Really cool and actually something I might attempt someday. The bed-temperature Gcode-trick is quite clever. I’d be kinda scared of using the nozzle to push of prints though for things to go out of alignment.
Thanks! yeah, pushing prints off with the print head can definitely lead to problems. However, with the right temperature and printed my prints come off super easily, so it's not a problem...
If you want to cut some time between prints, turn off the bed heater x number of layers before the last one. then you get a jump on bed cooling and ejecting of the part.
Cool video, I'm thinking of automatic my 2 KEs as well, one tip for the bed leveling, you can print out spacers for the sides of the bed that are bent downwards(consult the bed mesh preview on mainsail) and reduce the deviation on your plate a bit more. You can google the how to about it, other people have done it as well. Hope it helps
No no, you'll still do the auto bed leveling after you install the spacers so it confirms the new offset on each corner. Also one thing to not is to do auto leveling each time you remove the plate because when you place it back it can move the offset by a tiny bit although it shouldn't be something for you to worry about since you won't be removing the place much thanks to your print head knocking the print off the plate@@Arne.Bornheim
Got an A1 yesterday, I have a remote webcam looking down on the bed. Prints can be selected and sent to printer remotely, so when this current job finishes and bed gets below 30c, I'll try to shove the finished article it off the bed and table manually by remote controlling the bed and printhead. Fingers crossed.
When you wanna do this you might have to modify the end gcode. Most printers deactivate all motors at the end. When you want to move after that they need to Home first which might mean crashing into your print. So just beware of that 😊
Great idea! A concern is what about a shape that moves out of the way of the head? The use that you had as a test is very predictable nice flat side. I would want some visual conformation that the part is gone, before it continues, maybe a remote continue. Maybe it would have a limited range of parts that it would work with. Min height, flat wall. This could be over come with a sacrificial wall built. a worst case is something like the articulated dragon. ( I have no use for them, but the concept shows the problem). short, misc. fragile spikes that might not fall off the bed. with a remote conformation maybe it could activate another sweep off, or next print. But even if it has a limited effectivity, great option!
Definitely a good thought! There will definitely always be limits to this method. Especially with very flat or multiple objects. I like your idea with the wipe wall. Also, you could make the gcode make multiple push offs in different locations, maybe? Since right now, I only need it for gridfinity stuff, I'm trying to keep it simple. But there are definitely ways to improve it 😊
Hey 😊 in many slicers like orca or prusa you can add a custom bed image. I honestly googled it. Found one and then added the red area in photoshop. Since the base image wasn’t mine I cant share mine sadly. Hope the process makes sense though 😊
Its a cool idea, but I wonder how much force the printer needs to remove the print from the bed and if it can cause bending of the frame if used too much. Your prints are quite small, so probably not much force and hence no damage, but if you used all the print bed (aside from the part you have to keep empty to give the head some clearance to lower down) then I am a bt concerned about damaging the printer this way.
This really also depends on your cooldown time and the print bed. In my experience even the biggest prints can go of with almost no force when they’re cool enough.
When I got close to getting my og Ender 3 working flawlessly, the v3 SE comes out lol making the money I spent upgrading the of stock one an over priced learning experience lol. I’m still enjoying it since I wouldn’t say it’s an ended 3 anymore lol.
Haha yeah it really depends on what you want. I think tinkering and really understanding everything can be rewarding and fun. But if you just wanna print it’s not perfect
You should definitely contact Creality and have them implement this into their printers. I recently thought about this printing option all night, because... I print lampshades in vase mode and can't fit multiple items on one plate.
It's definitely doable. But honestly i think this is too sketchy to be officially implemented. there's a lot of tweaking and a lot of ways it can go wrong. Definitely a great option but maybe not for everyone because things could get damaged....
Creality has the CR-30. The printer prints on a belt and once the print is done it will simply turn the belt over. This pushes the print off and makes room for the next print. Since the hotend is angled it also allows for infinite length prints (you can print an entire sword in one go)
I don’t have one so I can’t say for sure. You definitely have to change some values in the code because of the different bed size but generally it should work. Not sure if / how you can make a print queue on Bambu though.
On the AnkerMake it’s difficult. You should be able to get the printer to push off the finished prints with gcode. However since the AnkerMake does not run Klipper or something like octoprint I don’t know how to do a print queue. You can manually make gcode that contains multiple prints or maybe get a gcode to loop and print the same thing multiple times. But as far as I know you can’t replicate the full process on the AnkerMake sadly. (If anybody knows how to implement the print queue please correct me 😊 )
I wonder how hard it would be to add a wipe wall to the printer? Maybe a wall that is normally just in front of the head. and only slightly above the surface. Would not work with all prints (thinking short like a lithophane. but there is always limits.
Will this code work for the prusa xl with 5 nozzles. Jk but you should create your own coded printers for resail like modded you may have a big market. Especially Etsy shops would buy them
Thanks. I think if you really want to do this professionally there’s better ways to especially for prusas there are complete addons for an extra cylinder to push off things or thing to swap the entire build plate!
Yes. The printer is always running a version of Klipper. you’re just installing another interface like mainsail or fluid and can install other stuff like octo everywhere. As far as I know you’re not even changing the Klipper version. Just adding the interfaces or addons. (But I’m not an expert on these things)
Hey! Im currently not looking to make a full tutorial but I’m sure with watching the video and downloading the free files from the description you can get it to work 😊
What about putting the printer at an angle or perhaps upside down. Would the printed parts fall of by it self or is there going adhesion problem with the first layer?
This could have many causes. For me, the right print bed definitely made a big difference. I used the one from my ankermake, but someone in the comments said what type works best in general (I think PEI, but please check in the comments). Other than that, you could also play with bed levelling and Z offset. Under normal conditions you can also use a glue stick on the print bed, but since this is something you have to do before every part it doesn't really make sense with this approach because it's not automated...
Using a creality Nebula camera will secure any printing problems, it will stop the print if it goes wrong using AI. You can also check the camera anytime with the creality cloud app. Amazing video my friend, I have 6 of these printer and I aways wanted to do that.
Interesting with the nebula pad! I got the nebula camera since then which also was a big step forward 😊 Hope you get to implement this on your own printers !
Wow, such an amazing video. It's really fun and entertaining to watch these kinds of videos, where people actually get creative and make their ideas reality. I really enjoyed this video, you even encouraged me to try something similiar. You definetely earned a new subscriber today.
On the OG Ender 3? This is really based on the Klipper firmware so the stuff shown in this video doesn‘t really apply. But in general you can do something very similar with a raspi and octoprint. There‘s even a print queue plugin for octoprint so might be easy to do
Hey! You could probably modify the end gcode to push off after a print is finished. In terms of the print queue that’s not going to be possible from my understanding. So you’ll have to manually start new prints or combine several print gcode. If you want a easier way you could look at swapmod for the a1 Mini
You don't need to root the printer to do this. You really just need to combine the print files with custom g code between them to clear the bed. It would be easy to do that with a python script.
@@Arne.Bornheim maybe so but making a program that does stichs print files together while clearing the prints between files would be something your average person would be excited about. Also it would work on any printer without modification or voiding warranties.
Explain something to me. Why are you only printing one model at a time? For example, ONE box model (I took: Divided Bin x4 - 1x1x2 - jdegs) prints 29 minutes, but TWO placed on the table at once, print 43 minutes. THREE at a time print 59 minutes. That is, in normal printing time you would have 2 pieces in an hour, but by printing all at once in the same time you will get 3 pieces. In 2 hours you will print not 6 but even 7 pieces of the same box at once, where normally you would have only 4 pieces. I understand that with a full table of prints, you wouldn't be able to use your nifty automatic printing system (great job, by the way), but think how much faster it would speed up filling your drawers with the prints you need.
I totally understand! You can use multiple objects on one bed with this method, too. And that makes a lot of sense, usually. To do it with this method, you need to move objects close enough and have a large brim to connect them. Since my aim for this video was to get the thing working in general, I tried to make things as easy as possible for me and just did one object per plate....
ya this has been possible for a long time with PEI sheets, and specifically with PEI bed sheets. As with PEI the print will stick like glue when its hot, but will self release when its cold, allowing you to do this. This works with ANY printer type as long as it has a PEI sheet, so this will work with a Core X/Y printer as well, provided the door allows the print to clear between the bed and the opening. So for a Voron 2.4, you just leave the doors open and it can push the print off the bed. Hell there are print heads that have been modded to have a bulldozer on the front for this very thing.
Thanks for the info on the PEI beds. I knew that one of my sheets worked better than other ones but didn’t know the material. And yeah that’s the cool thing that with a little tinkering you can make this work with most / all printers 😊
Thanks for uploading this. Really great quality video production. I wonder how you could print like ten pounds worth of filament like this?? Maybe with the pellet extruder or something. You’re really on to something here. Keep up the great R & D
yeah, pellet extruder is definitely interesting. With 2,5 kilo I already got pretty far and there's also the option of 5kg spools. So I think if you go for something like that, it's not a big problem. Getting a pellet extruder to work would likely be more work (and probably stacking another house of cards on another one in terms of reliability 😃 )
Yeah good idea. What did you have in mind? I always just checked with my camera every now and then. But something like octo everywhere (which I already have running) has support for print fail detection right?
@@Arne.Bornheimthere are plugins for octoprint where You have fail detection built in. Also it will be nice to have some smoke detector. Long prints cause high risk, so be carefull with it.
@@Arne.BornheimI think creality have official camera that you can connect to the box, then the box will connect the printer into cloud, where they have AI print failure detection(based on camera) . I am still waiting for my camera arrive to test these feature
hey! @thenhowboy also asked this, so I'm just gonna copy paste my answer 😊 I don’t have one, so I can’t say for sure. You definitely have to change some values in the code because of the different bed size but generally, it should work. Not sure if / how you can make a print queue on Bambu, though.
I don't see why the concept would not work. with my X1c I would need to leave the door open. probably make sure the print being pushed off does not hit the side. I have a theory of designing a wipe wall that is activated by moving the head to the right above the poop shoot area behind the bed. other part is setting up a print que. that you could auto start. or I would probably want to remotely start the next print. at least for a while. till I felt I know the variables that cause it to fail.
Which printer are you using? a quick google search says that 2095 is "Must return to origin first". My first guess is that you have to go into your slicer and remove the "disable stepper motors" in the end gcode. hope this helps 😊
@@Arne.Bornheim After I realized that it requires a new homeing, I tried to prevent this, unfortunately without success. I have an Ender 3 V3 KE. Do you know how to turn off "disable stepper motors" in Creality Print 5.0 Slicer?
@thaboi7398 yeah I think after you disable stepper motors you always have to Home again (which wouldn’t work with something on the bed). In Creality slicer you have to go to the settings of your printer and then to the end g-code. Usually the last command is disable stepper motors (there’s usually a comment behind it) just comment that our or delete it 😊
Did you download the script from the Gumroad link? you also need to root the printer to put the script on it. Let me know what's unclear and I'll do my best to help
Great vid. Advice from a non expert in production, but expert in content. consumption😅. You could change the whole extra filament thing to “i picked up a larger spool of filament on Amazon to be able to print longer without running out”. Hard to leave troubleshooting and work out of the vid, but giving us just the highlights is essential to retention. Great work overall!
Thanks so much for the feedback 😊 yeah it’s a delicate balance with the troubleshooting. Too much detail and it gets boring but it’s also kinda story of the video!
thanks! yeah you can also do something like this with octoprint 😊 the nice thing with my way is that you don't need any other hardware if your printer is already running clipper
Nice to see you overcome the challenges. The value of the video would increase if you shared some of the learned lessons, solutions found, problems to avoid, etc.
Thanks for the feedback! Yeah I try to keep a balance between keeping it entertaining and sharing details. I definitely know this isn't a how-to video but a little summary at the end could be a good way to strike that balance
What do you mean exactly? I thought bambu handy can't even slice files? (Don't have a bambu (yet) so I don't know much about it) Also most of the process is done on the printer and not in slicer
Good 👍 idea. I actually have 0,8 mm nozzles for my Anker make laying around but never got around to using them… does it make a big difference in speed?
Real shame someone was speaking all over your awesome jazzy funky instrumental track. Really great stuff. Bit of an avant-garde video though, not sure what 3dprinting has to do with anything.
Great video but like everyone else, the background music was too loud and the various clip volumes were all different!! And is nobody going to mention the ELEPHANT 🐘in the room??? The booger at 6:17 onwards broke me and couldn't watch beyond it 🙂
Thanks for the feedback. Totally agree on the music and general volume problems. I’ve worked that out now mostly 😊 And sorry the rest of the video broke you. I’ll try to keep future videos booger free 😉
Coole Sache ! Nur eine Sache : Während Du was erklärst ist Deine "Hinter"grundmusik viel zu laut, man kann sich kaum auf das, was Du erklärst konzentrieren. Ansonsten alles super.
Automating the printer is cool. No doubt. However, why not print a bunch of bins at the same time instead of one wee little bin at a time? Print 8 hours worth of stuff instead of 1 hour of stuff.
Yeah definitely possible! However you'll still only be printing 8 hours and not continually. You could also get more bins on the plate with this method as well. just have to make sure to connect them with a brim or change the push off script. I just wanted to keep it simple for my testing
@@Arne.Bornheim You also have the benefit of the plastic cooling more before the next layer, to help battle some kinds of slumps, etc. I was speaking more to the idea that you can't get much done at night. If you print enough stuff to keep the printer busy over night then that isn't as much of a problem.
one of the problems is making sure your have a 3d printed bed that can at any size or how much the print has taken be capable of pulling it all off easily without problems
yeah that's definitely a concern. I found on my printbed that with enough cooldown time all parts eventually come off fully. Then it was just a matter of best achieving that timing through gcode 😊
That white filament has got to be the single worst filament i have ever seen lmao Including 7 Euro/kg PLA from China back in 2016 fun project tho 👍 you might want to checkout the open source solutions that check with cameras if the print failed + filament runout sensor
Haha yeah it was pretty bad! But eventually i made it work… I guess for 12€/kg on amazon what was i expecting…. Thanks! Yeah there‘s definitely better solutions but I wanted something anyone can do with very little investment 😊
Ganz ehrlich einem Creality Drucker vertraue ich nicht damit einfach abzubrennen, wenn ich nicht in der Nähe bin. Warum druckst du nicht einfach mehrere Kiste gleichzeitig?
Ich habe mit vielen Sachen auf einem Bett angefangen, aber dann steht es trotzdem viel still. Thema Brandgefahr muss natürlich jeder selbst wissen... Ich habe einen Smarten Rauchmelder, der bei Alarm auch sofort den Strom vom Drucker kappt. Aber na klar. Dabei sein ist am sichersten..
@@ir0nsight280 Als ich mir die Verkabelung vom Ender 3 meines Kumpels angesehen habe ist mir das Vertrauen verloren gegangen. Verzinnte kabel und schlechte Bewegung der Kabel machen mir schon etwas Angst was mehrere Tage alleine arbeitet. Besonders wenn die Maschine schon 100h gelaufen ist.
@@Arne.Bornheim Honestly it's obviously a hard problem... At this stage, I'm probably still saying a P1P though. Sure, it's significantly more expensive, but over time the biggest cost of any 3D printer that actually gets used will be filament. My first machine was a Creality CR-6, and I have honestly not added all the money I spent on upgrades to get it to perform as advertised because I am too scared... Easily more than my X1C :/
@Jonasmonasonas obviously everyone is entitled to their own opinion on this issue, but I couldn’t disagree more. Again my first machine was a Creality machine that over promised and under delivered. I bought it as a tool, not a hobby, but ultimately spent 4 years modifying it and learning an incredible amount of settings and tweaks in Cura to tune and get the best I could out of it. In the end it was direct drive with an all metal hot end, and even some parts of the motion system were aftermarket. I found it frustrating and expensive because I spent at least as much time getting the printer to run as I wanted as actually printing things I bought it to make. Eventually I bought an X1C and found 2 major things: the frustration of printing is now gone as it just works, and all of the settings, tweaks and general hardware knowledge I acquired are pretty close to irrelevant. I have never heard an opinion that people should learn on a carrier Pidgeon before being allowed a mobile phone so that they can learn how the system really works. Sure, if you are into Pidgeons and love the process I’m sure you can get a lot of joy out of that hobby and the satisfaction of understanding the minutia of requirements around that system. I just feel it in no way is a right of passage and in fact, would think most people would give up part way through that experience and therefore never see how powerful a mobile phone is as a tool. No hate in the above, just trying to explain how I’ve come to my conclusion
aww man if only you could print more than one thing at a time. you could print as many as you can fit on the build plate or time the printer to be done just before you wake up. that would be great. someone needs to invent a duplicate button so people can do that. oh wait that already exists! of course you cant ram every print and keep going... some are too big and stick too much.
I understand where you're coming from. Even with this method, it's possible to put multiple things on at the same time. You just need to put them close together and have a large brim so they are connected. It was just another complexity that i tried to avoid. And if you have the right print bed and cooldown setting the print will honestly come off the bed by themselves. no matter their size...
Great Idea. I took it and asked Chaty how to crate it in an easy way. With a phyton snippet I merge different files and add the kick for the parts. Sorry for the German. Code: import tkinter as tk from tkinter import filedialog # G-Code für den Übergang zwischen den Blöcken transition_gcode = """ ; Übergang zwischen Druckteilen M400 ; Warten, bis alle Bewegungen abgeschlossen sind M140 S30 ; Heizbett auf 30°C abkühlen lassen M190 S30 ; Warten, bis Heizbett 30°C erreicht hat G1 Z5 F900 ; Z-Achse auf 5 mm anheben G1 X0 Y250 F3600 ; Druckkopf ans hintere Ende der Platte G1 Y-10 F1000 ; Schiebe das Bauteil nach vorne, bis es von der Platte fällt G1 X0 Y128 F18000 ; Druckkopf zurück in sichere Position ; Fortsetzen des nächsten Druckteils """ # G-Code, der nur am Ende des letzten Druckteils eingefügt wird custom_end_gcode = """ ; Custom End G-Code M140 S0 ; Heizbett ausschalten M106 S0 ; Lüfter ausschalten M104 S0 ; Hotend ausschalten M400 ; Warten, bis alle Bewegungen abgeschlossen sind """ # Datei-Auswahl über Dialog def choose_files(): root = tk.Tk() root.withdraw() # Versteckt das Tkinter-Fenster file_paths = filedialog.askopenfilenames(title="Wähle G-Code Dateien aus", filetypes=[("G-Code Dateien", "*.gcode")]) return list(file_paths) # Funktion zum Zusammenfügen und Einfügen des Übergangs-G-Codes def process_gcode_files(file_paths, output_file): with open(output_file, 'w') as outfile: for idx, file_path in enumerate(file_paths): with open(file_path, 'r') as infile: lines = infile.readlines() # Entferne den Abschluss-G-Code der vorherigen Datei (außer beim ersten Druckteil) if idx > 0: lines = remove_end_gcode(lines) outfile.writelines(lines) # Übergangsgcode hinzufügen, außer bei der letzten Datei if idx < len(file_paths) - 1: outfile.write(transition_gcode) # Füge den benutzerdefinierten Abschlusscode nur am Ende der letzten Datei ein outfile.write(custom_end_gcode) # Funktion zum Entfernen des Abschluss-G-Codes def remove_end_gcode(lines): end_marker = "; EXECUTABLE_BLOCK_END" for i, line in enumerate(lines): if end_marker in line: return lines[:i] # Gibt alle Zeilen vor dem Endblock zurück return lines # Falls kein Endblock gefunden wurde, alle Zeilen zurückgeben # Hauptteil des Skripts if __name__ == "__main__": file_paths = choose_files() if file_paths: output_file = filedialog.asksaveasfilename(defaultextension=".gcode", filetypes=[("G-Code Dateien", "*.gcode")], title="Speichere die verknüpfte Datei") if output_file: process_gcode_files(file_paths, output_file) print(f"Die G-Code Dateien wurden erfolgreich zu {output_file} zusammengefügt.") else: print("Kein Ausgabedateiname angegeben.") else: print("Keine Dateien ausgewählt.")
Haha interesting approach! I like it but prefer the version through the gui since I can add new prints whenever I want. I don’t have to plan out all m prints before. I know it’s a small difference but to me it makes Usability a lot better. No worries about the German 😉 ich verstehe das ganz gut 😊
If you don't want to root your printer you can just copy and paste the gcode over and over to que the prints from within one file. Works great! It loses some of the functionality of your system but it is less scary (for me at least). If you throw in some code you can also get it to make purge lines in different spots for every print.
Definitely also an option. If you want the same thing multiple times I think there’s also a loop command
where do I put the gcode?
@@akosichad88 if you are asking this you should NOT try.
This is amazing gives me alot of ideas for my own printer. I think for me I dont need it to be automatic but I do want to be able to restart the print remotely, while watching it with a camara. This way when away from home for work I can click and restart prints myself!! thanks.
yeah that would definitely be doable. I have smart home plugs on all my printers so I can remotely turn them on or off (you can even make automations for them to turn off after a print is finished based on power draw.) the you can just implement the push off script. Either at the beginning of your new print or as macro in Klipper. 😊
Let me know if you get it to work!
I have the ender 3 v3 ke too and the Orca slicer works perfectly for me.
Thanks. Yeah I tried orca slicer later and have been loving it
Hey! I just watched it all at ~400 views and got some feedback:
- really liked when u explained what did you change and what made things work (like the gcode command to capture 30 degree of the hotbed) rather than: oops not working > I will fix it > oops not working > I will fix it > it works!
- I would love to see some b roll or montage of non stop working 3d printer after all video explaining why is it not working rather than 20s timelapse
- quality production is super nice altough I think sometimes the music is too loud? idk might be just me
You seem like a cool dude, earned a sub! Also, I recently started my journey with 3d printing so I guess YT algorithm is working haha gl mate with your channel
Thanks for the great feedback!
Really happy to have you on the channel 😊 And welcome to the 3D printing journey!
As for your comments:
definitely know what you mean regarding the time-lapse. It was kinda hard to show it in a way that made sense. Especially with the long pauses in between prints...
And with the music: I hear you. It's a comment I've been getting a lot... It's a delicate balance between no audible music and too loud 😃 (I'll keep in mind for next time)
@@Arne.Bornheim I found a useful video to at least help understand the issue. If it turns out that you're using premiere pro, good on you, this is basically an easy fix tutorial then.
ua-cam.com/video/GBH0BFvCLAA/v-deo.html
great video but the music is kind of too loud and it makes it kind of annoying to listen to
Thanks for the Feedback! Totally true and fixed in My Recent Videos
I will suggest you using orca slicer.
Because creality slicer is kind off reskin for cura if i remember correctly.
Orca also has pretty good profiles for ender 3 v3 se/ke
And a big comunity
Yes 🙌 just started using orca recently and love it
Amazing. Earlier today I was wondering how to do something like this. Printing a HUGEEE sword right now and having to wake up every morning and move it to the next print is annoying because it wastes a lot of time. You deserve way more than 5k subs.
Thanks a lot 😊 let me know if it works for you!
Hope you get your sword printed soon
depending on the printer there could be a wipe wall that wipes the whole width at once. I have a Bambu x1c. In thory I could design a wall that is near bed level and I would need move the head behind the bed to activate the wall and leave the door open. It is something to do before it is needed. when I get a chance I will design it.
sounds really cool 😊 definitely let me know how it goes!
I’m not sure if G code wise this works the same as CNC machines but if you’re printing the same print just over and over you should be able to just make a simple looping program. So for example with a CNC mill you would replace the M30 with a M99 so it jumps back up to the start of the program and starts over.
Google subroutines and sub programs if this runs g code similar you should be able to have a main program that basically has all the programs you want to run listed in it with Gcode to loop through them and call up each program saved in the memory of the machine one after another without the need of a web interface
Should be all handled with the code
Yeah, as far as I know, you could just loop the same print no problem! For me, I wanted to be able to put different prints into a queue though, which is a lot more flexible 😊
What about the starting purge line of each print? are you just letting it purge right over the last one?
Honestly it wasn’t really a problem. Otherwise you could also use a brim and use that as your purge line
Really cool and actually something I might attempt someday. The bed-temperature Gcode-trick is quite clever. I’d be kinda scared of using the nozzle to push of prints though for things to go out of alignment.
Thanks!
yeah, pushing prints off with the print head can definitely lead to problems. However, with the right temperature and printed my prints come off super easily, so it's not a problem...
You can always re home the printer after the push off if you think it's going to skip some steps while pushing. It's G28 I think
I think it always homes before a print?
But I think meeskees was concerned about bending something or similar
If you want to cut some time between prints, turn off the bed heater x number of layers before the last one. then you get a jump on bed cooling and ejecting of the part.
That's a really smart idea 😊 You'd have do dial it in to be sure it works correctly but i like how you think!
Cool video, I'm thinking of automatic my 2 KEs as well, one tip for the bed leveling, you can print out spacers for the sides of the bed that are bent downwards(consult the bed mesh preview on mainsail) and reduce the deviation on your plate a bit more. You can google the how to about it, other people have done it as well. Hope it helps
Thanks interesting. And this is better than automatic bed leveling?
No no, you'll still do the auto bed leveling after you install the spacers so it confirms the new offset on each corner. Also one thing to not is to do auto leveling each time you remove the plate because when you place it back it can move the offset by a tiny bit although it shouldn't be something for you to worry about since you won't be removing the place much thanks to your print head knocking the print off the plate@@Arne.Bornheim
@@BojanSusic-qi4qn ahhh, thanks. Definitely sounds interesting 😊!
Got an A1 yesterday, I have a remote webcam looking down on the bed. Prints can be selected and sent to printer remotely, so when this current job finishes and bed gets below 30c, I'll try to shove the finished article it off the bed and table manually by remote controlling the bed and printhead. Fingers crossed.
When you wanna do this you might have to modify the end gcode. Most printers deactivate all motors at the end. When you want to move after that they need to Home first which might mean crashing into your print.
So just beware of that 😊
Great idea! A concern is what about a shape that moves out of the way of the head? The use that you had as a test is very predictable nice flat side. I would want some visual conformation that the part is gone, before it continues, maybe a remote continue. Maybe it would have a limited range of parts that it would work with. Min height, flat wall. This could be over come with a sacrificial wall built. a worst case is something like the articulated dragon. ( I have no use for them, but the concept shows the problem). short, misc. fragile spikes that might not fall off the bed. with a remote conformation maybe it could activate another sweep off, or next print. But even if it has a limited effectivity, great option!
Definitely a good thought! There will definitely always be limits to this method. Especially with very flat or multiple objects. I like your idea with the wipe wall. Also, you could make the gcode make multiple push offs in different locations, maybe?
Since right now, I only need it for gridfinity stuff, I'm trying to keep it simple. But there are definitely ways to improve it 😊
Nice vidéo ! I just find the music to be a bit loud sometimes, especially at 5:17
Thanks so much for the feedback! Yeah I‘mull keep the music lower in the next video which should be out tomorrow 😊
How did you preset that red/blocked area to not print overthere? I am trying to make this area to block printing or calibration area on K1 Max
Hey 😊 in many slicers like orca or prusa you can add a custom bed image. I honestly googled it. Found one and then added the red area in photoshop. Since the base image wasn’t mine I cant share mine sadly.
Hope the process makes sense though 😊
Its a cool idea, but I wonder how much force the printer needs to remove the print from the bed and if it can cause bending of the frame if used too much. Your prints are quite small, so probably not much force and hence no damage, but if you used all the print bed (aside from the part you have to keep empty to give the head some clearance to lower down) then I am a bt concerned about damaging the printer this way.
This really also depends on your cooldown time and the print bed. In my experience even the biggest prints can go of with almost no force when they’re cool enough.
When I got close to getting my og Ender 3 working flawlessly, the v3 SE comes out lol making the money I spent upgrading the of stock one an over priced learning experience lol. I’m still enjoying it since I wouldn’t say it’s an ended 3 anymore lol.
Haha yeah it really depends on what you want. I think tinkering and really understanding everything can be rewarding and fun. But if you just wanna print it’s not perfect
You should definitely contact Creality and have them implement this into their printers. I recently thought about this printing option all night, because... I print lampshades in vase mode and can't fit multiple items on one plate.
It's definitely doable. But honestly i think this is too sketchy to be officially implemented. there's a lot of tweaking and a lot of ways it can go wrong.
Definitely a great option but maybe not for everyone because things could get damaged....
Creality has the CR-30.
The printer prints on a belt and once the print is done it will simply turn the belt over.
This pushes the print off and makes room for the next print.
Since the hotend is angled it also allows for infinite length prints (you can print an entire sword in one go)
Yeah I know of that. Really like the idea and concept but I definitely think it’s a very specialized printer
would the code work on bambu lab printers?
I don’t have one so I can’t say for sure. You definitely have to change some values in the code because of the different bed size but generally it should work.
Not sure if / how you can make a print queue on Bambu though.
I wish it did. That would be nice. But the app off Bambu Lab you can press reprint and it will knock it off. That's what I do.
Was the Ender CR-30 not an option?
good point! I definitely thought of that but at the time I had that printer and just wanted to get it working with what i had
Will you please relese all the custom g code. I would love to do this with my printer
What custom gcode are you missing? You can download everything necessary from the link in the description.
Really nice to see all creative process. Well done 👏👏 Also, are you printing standard gridfinity version or some modiffied one?
Thanks! It’s a standard gridfinity grid and then some custom containers here and there 😊
It works on an ankermaker m5 printer?
On the AnkerMake it’s difficult. You should be able to get the printer to push off the finished prints with gcode. However since the AnkerMake does not run Klipper or something like octoprint I don’t know how to do a print queue.
You can manually make gcode that contains multiple prints or maybe get a gcode to loop and print the same thing multiple times.
But as far as I know you can’t replicate the full process on the AnkerMake sadly. (If anybody knows how to implement the print queue please correct me 😊 )
I wonder how hard it would be to add a wipe wall to the printer? Maybe a wall that is normally just in front of the head. and only slightly above the surface. Would not work with all prints (thinking short like a lithophane. but there is always limits.
Will this code work for the prusa xl with 5 nozzles. Jk but you should create your own coded printers for resail like modded you may have a big market. Especially Etsy shops would buy them
Thanks. I think if you really want to do this professionally there’s better ways to especially for prusas there are complete addons for an extra cylinder to push off things or thing to swap the entire build plate!
Is rooting the printer just installing Klipper? Or I guess just a more standard version of klipper than the custom ones that so often cause problems?
Yes. The printer is always running a version of Klipper. you’re just installing another interface like mainsail or fluid and can install other stuff like octo everywhere.
As far as I know you’re not even changing the Klipper version. Just adding the interfaces or addons. (But I’m not an expert on these things)
thanks for blowing out everyone's ear drums for no reason @4:12
Haha😂
😂 sorry. That was an editing error.
Thanks for the heads up. I still got caught out 🤣
Can you make a full video on each step to get the full automation right on your ender 3
Hey! Im currently not looking to make a full tutorial but I’m sure with watching the video and downloading the free files from the description you can get it to work 😊
Hi, kannst du vielleicht deinen Endcode posten? Bei mir kommt die Fehlermeldung, dass ich erst home muss.
Octoprint with the continuous print plugin is a good way to avoid having to root your printer.
Definitely. Just depends on preferences. With build in Klipper you don’t have to buy extra hardware which is nice.
Great job man! That takes really lots of perseverance to continue with the project after so many tries.
Thanks! Haha it drove me nuts but it was worth it in the end 😊
What about putting the printer at an angle or perhaps upside down. Would the printed parts fall of by it self or is there going adhesion problem with the first layer?
Yeah definitely an option. I’ve seen both online but haven’t tried it
This is amazing content .... keep up the solid work!!! What tool head / shroud is that on your SE?
Thanks so much 😊 it’s the Ender 3v3 ke. And Tool head and shroud are just stock!
I have a hard time removeing the print how can I fix this?
This could have many causes.
For me, the right print bed definitely made a big difference. I used the one from my ankermake, but someone in the comments said what type works best in general (I think PEI, but please check in the comments).
Other than that, you could also play with bed levelling and Z offset.
Under normal conditions you can also use a glue stick on the print bed, but since this is something you have to do before every part it doesn't really make sense with this approach because it's not automated...
Using a creality Nebula camera will secure any printing problems, it will stop the print if it goes wrong using AI. You can also check the camera anytime with the creality cloud app. Amazing video my friend, I have 6 of these printer and I aways wanted to do that.
Interesting with the nebula pad! I got the nebula camera since then which also was a big step forward 😊
Hope you get to implement this on your own printers !
4:12 what was that
Haha sorry. That was my editing mistake
I agree, the Ender 3 is a good starter 3D printer. That's what got me started.
Happy to hear!
Wow, such an amazing video. It's really fun and entertaining to watch these kinds of videos, where people actually get creative and make their ideas reality. I really enjoyed this video, you even encouraged me to try something similiar. You definetely earned a new subscriber today.
Thanks so much ! Really appreciate your comment
Would this work on the ender 3
On the OG Ender 3? This is really based on the Klipper firmware so the stuff shown in this video doesn‘t really apply. But in general you can do something very similar with a raspi and octoprint. There‘s even a print queue plugin for octoprint so might be easy to do
Hey do you know optimal cleaning times for the Ender 3 V3 KE? (Your model I think)
Sorry I don’t :/ what kind of cleaning are you looking to do?
you coud have installed octo print and there is to 1000% a plugin that can du it if not it by it self
Yes octoprint has something similar. But as far as I know you need a raspi for octoprint whereas my setup runs on the printer natively
how to apply same concept for bambu lab A1??
Hey! You could probably modify the end gcode to push off after a print is finished. In terms of the print queue that’s not going to be possible from my understanding. So you’ll have to manually start new prints or combine several print gcode. If you want a easier way you could look at swapmod for the a1 Mini
@Arne.Bornheim thank you for the information do you have some ideia if the swap mod will be available or is under development for the normal A1?
@wallyonfashion I think it might come eventually but it’s definitely still a far way off …
Hello! I love this video! Great editing quality! You should publish your 5kg spool holder. I have a 2.5kg spool that I cannot use!
Thanks so much! 😊
I didn’t actually make that spoil holder myself. You can find it on thingyverse here : www.thingiverse.com/thing:5759314
You don't need to root the printer to do this. You really just need to combine the print files with custom g code between them to clear the bed. It would be easy to do that with a python script.
Yeah that’s also possible but feels less flexible for me than this since you can add new prints at any point
@@Arne.Bornheim maybe so but making a program that does stichs print files together while clearing the prints between files would be something your average person would be excited about. Also it would work on any printer without modification or voiding warranties.
Explain something to me. Why are you only printing one model at a time?
For example, ONE box model (I took: Divided Bin x4 - 1x1x2 - jdegs) prints 29 minutes, but TWO placed on the table at once, print 43 minutes. THREE at a time print 59 minutes. That is, in normal printing time you would have 2 pieces in an hour, but by printing all at once in the same time you will get 3 pieces. In 2 hours you will print not 6 but even 7 pieces of the same box at once, where normally you would have only 4 pieces.
I understand that with a full table of prints, you wouldn't be able to use your nifty automatic printing system (great job, by the way), but think how much faster it would speed up filling your drawers with the prints you need.
I totally understand! You can use multiple objects on one bed with this method, too. And that makes a lot of sense, usually. To do it with this method, you need to move objects close enough and have a large brim to connect them.
Since my aim for this video was to get the thing working in general, I tried to make things as easy as possible for me and just did one object per plate....
ya this has been possible for a long time with PEI sheets, and specifically with PEI bed sheets. As with PEI the print will stick like glue when its hot, but will self release when its cold, allowing you to do this. This works with ANY printer type as long as it has a PEI sheet, so this will work with a Core X/Y printer as well, provided the door allows the print to clear between the bed and the opening. So for a Voron 2.4, you just leave the doors open and it can push the print off the bed. Hell there are print heads that have been modded to have a bulldozer on the front for this very thing.
Thanks for the info on the PEI beds. I knew that one of my sheets worked better than other ones but didn’t know the material.
And yeah that’s the cool thing that with a little tinkering you can make this work with most / all printers 😊
Thanks for uploading this. Really great quality video production. I wonder how you could print like ten pounds worth of filament like this?? Maybe with the pellet extruder or something. You’re really on to something here. Keep up the great R & D
yeah, pellet extruder is definitely interesting. With 2,5 kilo I already got pretty far and there's also the option of 5kg spools. So I think if you go for something like that, it's not a big problem. Getting a pellet extruder to work would likely be more work (and probably stacking another house of cards on another one in terms of reliability 😃 )
Sehr tolles video. Danke dafür!
Immer gerne und danke für den Kommentar!
is this method works on ender 3 v3se
The gcode will definitely work! not sure if the Se runs on Klipper and can be rooted? But if yes that should also work
Would definitely suggest some kind of print fail detection, other than that looks like a cool build
Yeah good idea. What did you have in mind? I always just checked with my camera every now and then. But something like octo everywhere (which I already have running) has support for print fail detection right?
@@Arne.Bornheimthere are plugins for octoprint where You have fail detection built in. Also it will be nice to have some smoke detector. Long prints cause high risk, so be carefull with it.
@@Arne.BornheimI think creality have official camera that you can connect to the box, then the box will connect the printer into cloud, where they have AI print failure detection(based on camera) . I am still waiting for my camera arrive to test these feature
@Jesse-zs7yc I have the camera now 😊 but not sure about the ai failure detection? Would that be in the app?
good video at some points your voice or the music becomes really loud 10:32
Happy you liked it ! And thanks for the feedback! I've dialed down the music in future videos....
Do you know guys if it would work with bambu lab printers ?
hey! @thenhowboy also asked this, so I'm just gonna copy paste my answer 😊
I don’t have one, so I can’t say for sure. You definitely have to change some values in the code because of the different bed size but generally, it should work.
Not sure if / how you can make a print queue on Bambu, though.
I don't see why the concept would not work. with my X1c I would need to leave the door open. probably make sure the print being pushed off does not hit the side. I have a theory of designing a wipe wall that is activated by moving the head to the right above the poop shoot area behind the bed. other part is setting up a print que. that you could auto start. or I would probably want to remotely start the next print. at least for a while. till I felt I know the variables that cause it to fail.
awesome video man!
Thank you 😊
Super cool! Now get more printers and setup a Gridfinity farm! :)
Haha we'll see. Maybe I'll get there one day 😊
when i use your gcode i get either error 2095 or an unknown error :(
Which printer are you using? a quick google search says that 2095 is "Must return to origin first". My first guess is that you have to go into your slicer and remove the "disable stepper motors" in the end gcode.
hope this helps 😊
@@Arne.Bornheim After I realized that it requires a new homeing, I tried to prevent this, unfortunately without success. I have an Ender 3 V3 KE. Do you know how to turn off "disable stepper motors" in Creality Print 5.0 Slicer?
@thaboi7398 yeah I think after you disable stepper motors you always have to Home again (which wouldn’t work with something on the bed). In Creality slicer you have to go to the settings of your printer and then to the end g-code. Usually the last command is disable stepper motors (there’s usually a comment behind it) just comment that our or delete it 😊
How do I put this on my ender 3 v3 ke
Did you download the script from the Gumroad link?
you also need to root the printer to put the script on it.
Let me know what's unclear and I'll do my best to help
@@Arne.Bornheim yah I downloaded it but i don’t know how to root it to my printer
Great vid. Advice from a non expert in production, but expert in content. consumption😅. You could change the whole extra filament thing to “i picked up a larger spool of filament on Amazon to be able to print longer without running out”. Hard to leave troubleshooting and work out of the vid, but giving us just the highlights is essential to retention. Great work overall!
Thanks so much for the feedback 😊 yeah it’s a delicate balance with the troubleshooting. Too much detail and it gets boring but it’s also kinda story of the video!
Awesome stuff
Thank you 😊
Great video, subbed. I think Octoprint has this feature.
thanks! yeah you can also do something like this with octoprint 😊
the nice thing with my way is that you don't need any other hardware if your printer is already running clipper
Leuke en leerzame video man.
👍🤓
My Dutch is a little bit rusty but bedankt 😊
@@Arne.Bornheim But in the background still the sound of a dutchie 🤣😂
Very smart solution!
Thanks! 😊
great video spoiled by the loud and unnecessary background soundtrack
Thanks for the feedback. Totally understand and it’s been less loud in the new videos!
Very cool :) great video, hopefully one day I'll be able to follow in your footsteps
Thanks so much! It's definitely a doable project if you have some time on your hands and are willing to tinker
Why not just get octoprint
you can do the same thing with that and it very easy and you can make cool video with it and add a cam to see on your phone
Octoprint is definitely very nice in many ways but it also requires another device, like an rasberry pi. This version runs on the printer directly 😊
Nice to see you overcome the challenges. The value of the video would increase if you shared some of the learned lessons, solutions found, problems to avoid, etc.
Thanks for the feedback! Yeah I try to keep a balance between keeping it entertaining and sharing details. I definitely know this isn't a how-to video but a little summary at the end could be a good way to strike that balance
Great work!
Thanks a lot! 😊
I was wondering if anyone has made this for bambu handy.
What do you mean exactly? I thought bambu handy can't even slice files? (Don't have a bambu (yet) so I don't know much about it)
Also most of the process is done on the printer and not in slicer
Amazing, 👍
Thanks 🙏
what you really need is a 0.6 or 0.8 nozzle
Good 👍 idea. I actually have 0,8 mm nozzles for my Anker make laying around but never got around to using them… does it make a big difference in speed?
Ofcourse, bigger nozel = bigger layer . But it would look a bit uneven as the nozzle is bigger @@Arne.Bornheim
Massive bat in the cave at 6:17 lol Easter egg
😂 haha i never noticed that before
Real shame someone was speaking all over your awesome jazzy funky instrumental track. Really great stuff.
Bit of an avant-garde video though, not sure what 3dprinting has to do with anything.
Haha sorry I know the music was too loud. I’ve tried to fix it in my newer videos ( you should check them out)
4:11 thanks
😂 I'm so sorry that was left in there 😃
@@Arne.Bornheim it made me rock quite hard in my chair, i thought my building collapsed.
Those headphones must have been pretty loud…
@@Arne.Bornheim not anymore for sure :P!
Haha sorry! You’re safe from now on (probably)
Great video but like everyone else, the background music was too loud and the various clip volumes were all different!! And is nobody going to mention the ELEPHANT 🐘in the room??? The booger at 6:17 onwards broke me and couldn't watch beyond it 🙂
Thanks for the feedback. Totally agree on the music and general volume problems. I’ve worked that out now mostly 😊
And sorry the rest of the video broke you. I’ll try to keep future videos booger free 😉
Coole Sache ! Nur eine Sache : Während Du was erklärst ist Deine "Hinter"grundmusik viel zu laut, man kann sich kaum auf das, was Du erklärst konzentrieren. Ansonsten alles super.
Danke fürs Feedback! Stimmt vollkommen... In den Videos danach ist es besser geworden 😊
Just buy or print a "filament joining tool"
Automating the printer is cool. No doubt. However, why not print a bunch of bins at the same time instead of one wee little bin at a time? Print 8 hours worth of stuff instead of 1 hour of stuff.
Yeah definitely possible! However you'll still only be printing 8 hours and not continually.
You could also get more bins on the plate with this method as well. just have to make sure to connect them with a brim or change the push off script. I just wanted to keep it simple for my testing
@@Arne.Bornheim You also have the benefit of the plastic cooling more before the next layer, to help battle some kinds of slumps, etc.
I was speaking more to the idea that you can't get much done at night. If you print enough stuff to keep the printer busy over night then that isn't as much of a problem.
one of the problems is making sure your have a 3d printed bed that can at any size or how much the print has taken be capable of pulling it all off easily without problems
yeah that's definitely a concern. I found on my printbed that with enough cooldown time all parts eventually come off fully. Then it was just a matter of best achieving that timing through gcode 😊
4:46 Weaponerface? Wep in 'er face?
😉 webinnerface
That white filament has got to be the single worst filament i have ever seen lmao
Including 7 Euro/kg PLA from China back in 2016
fun project tho 👍
you might want to checkout the open source solutions that check with cameras if the print failed + filament runout sensor
Haha yeah it was pretty bad! But eventually i made it work… I guess for 12€/kg on amazon what was i expecting….
Thanks! Yeah there‘s definitely better solutions but I wanted something anyone can do with very little investment 😊
Geiles Video, aber pass beim editing auf , öfters war die musik zu früh eingespielt oder viel zu laut trotzdem super video
Danke fürs Feedback! Hab bei den neueren Videos drauf geachtet. Schau gerne mal rein 😉
Ganz ehrlich einem Creality Drucker vertraue ich nicht damit einfach abzubrennen, wenn ich nicht in der Nähe bin. Warum druckst du nicht einfach mehrere Kiste gleichzeitig?
Ich habe mit vielen Sachen auf einem Bett angefangen, aber dann steht es trotzdem viel still.
Thema Brandgefahr muss natürlich jeder selbst wissen... Ich habe einen Smarten Rauchmelder, der bei Alarm auch sofort den Strom vom Drucker kappt. Aber na klar. Dabei sein ist am sichersten..
Anet hatte Brandprobleme, Creality hab ich noch nicht gehört. Woher kommt die Info?
@@Arne.Bornheim Das fände ich eigentlich ein interessantes Video mit dem automatisch abschalten.
@@ir0nsight280 Als ich mir die Verkabelung vom Ender 3 meines Kumpels angesehen habe ist mir das Vertrauen verloren gegangen. Verzinnte kabel und schlechte Bewegung der Kabel machen mir schon etwas Angst was mehrere Tage alleine arbeitet. Besonders wenn die Maschine schon 100h gelaufen ist.
4:12 What the hell was this 💀
just checking if everyone's still awake 😉
Also one more thing. A bed cleaner
Sorry you lost me at recommending an Ender 3 to beginners in 2024
Thanks for the feedback! What do you think I should be recommending?
@@Arne.Bornheim Honestly it's obviously a hard problem... At this stage, I'm probably still saying a P1P though. Sure, it's significantly more expensive, but over time the biggest cost of any 3D printer that actually gets used will be filament.
My first machine was a Creality CR-6, and I have honestly not added all the money I spent on upgrades to get it to perform as advertised because I am too scared... Easily more than my X1C :/
@Jonasmonasonas obviously everyone is entitled to their own opinion on this issue, but I couldn’t disagree more. Again my first machine was a Creality machine that over promised and under delivered. I bought it as a tool, not a hobby, but ultimately spent 4 years modifying it and learning an incredible amount of settings and tweaks in Cura to tune and get the best I could out of it. In the end it was direct drive with an all metal hot end, and even some parts of the motion system were aftermarket. I found it frustrating and expensive because I spent at least as much time getting the printer to run as I wanted as actually printing things I bought it to make. Eventually I bought an X1C and found 2 major things: the frustration of printing is now gone as it just works, and all of the settings, tweaks and general hardware knowledge I acquired are pretty close to irrelevant. I have never heard an opinion that people should learn on a carrier Pidgeon before being allowed a mobile phone so that they can learn how the system really works. Sure, if you are into Pidgeons and love the process I’m sure you can get a lot of joy out of that hobby and the satisfaction of understanding the minutia of requirements around that system. I just feel it in no way is a right of passage and in fact, would think most people would give up part way through that experience and therefore never see how powerful a mobile phone is as a tool.
No hate in the above, just trying to explain how I’ve come to my conclusion
@Jonasmonasonasi can agree, i have heard a p1p is a great printer, but you gotta understand the machine so you can do upgrades or repairs
@@givemeanaccountdamitor an a1 if you’re on a budget
aww man if only you could print more than one thing at a time. you could print as many as you can fit on the build plate or time the printer to be done just before you wake up.
that would be great. someone needs to invent a duplicate button so people can do that.
oh wait that already exists!
of course you cant ram every print and keep going... some are too big and stick too much.
I understand where you're coming from. Even with this method, it's possible to put multiple things on at the same time. You just need to put them close together and have a large brim so they are connected. It was just another complexity that i tried to avoid.
And if you have the right print bed and cooldown setting the print will honestly come off the bed by themselves. no matter their size...
4:11 AAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
😂 just making sure everyone's still paying attention
Callie Loaf
Rooting Ender?
God, I need to get out from under the rock
Haha seems to be a cozy rock
@@Arne.Bornheim yeah. Mine is the original ender3, and no root is required ;)
Bros power supply 💀
you lost me when you said ender is a printer for beginners. it seems your are completely clueless.
This breaks the printer 😭
Why?
Yea wym
Great Idea.
I took it and asked Chaty how to crate it in an easy way.
With a phyton snippet I merge different files and add the kick for the parts.
Sorry for the German.
Code:
import tkinter as tk
from tkinter import filedialog
# G-Code für den Übergang zwischen den Blöcken
transition_gcode = """
; Übergang zwischen Druckteilen
M400 ; Warten, bis alle Bewegungen abgeschlossen sind
M140 S30 ; Heizbett auf 30°C abkühlen lassen
M190 S30 ; Warten, bis Heizbett 30°C erreicht hat
G1 Z5 F900 ; Z-Achse auf 5 mm anheben
G1 X0 Y250 F3600 ; Druckkopf ans hintere Ende der Platte
G1 Y-10 F1000 ; Schiebe das Bauteil nach vorne, bis es von der Platte fällt
G1 X0 Y128 F18000 ; Druckkopf zurück in sichere Position
; Fortsetzen des nächsten Druckteils
"""
# G-Code, der nur am Ende des letzten Druckteils eingefügt wird
custom_end_gcode = """
; Custom End G-Code
M140 S0 ; Heizbett ausschalten
M106 S0 ; Lüfter ausschalten
M104 S0 ; Hotend ausschalten
M400 ; Warten, bis alle Bewegungen abgeschlossen sind
"""
# Datei-Auswahl über Dialog
def choose_files():
root = tk.Tk()
root.withdraw() # Versteckt das Tkinter-Fenster
file_paths = filedialog.askopenfilenames(title="Wähle G-Code Dateien aus",
filetypes=[("G-Code Dateien", "*.gcode")])
return list(file_paths)
# Funktion zum Zusammenfügen und Einfügen des Übergangs-G-Codes
def process_gcode_files(file_paths, output_file):
with open(output_file, 'w') as outfile:
for idx, file_path in enumerate(file_paths):
with open(file_path, 'r') as infile:
lines = infile.readlines()
# Entferne den Abschluss-G-Code der vorherigen Datei (außer beim ersten Druckteil)
if idx > 0:
lines = remove_end_gcode(lines)
outfile.writelines(lines)
# Übergangsgcode hinzufügen, außer bei der letzten Datei
if idx < len(file_paths) - 1:
outfile.write(transition_gcode)
# Füge den benutzerdefinierten Abschlusscode nur am Ende der letzten Datei ein
outfile.write(custom_end_gcode)
# Funktion zum Entfernen des Abschluss-G-Codes
def remove_end_gcode(lines):
end_marker = "; EXECUTABLE_BLOCK_END"
for i, line in enumerate(lines):
if end_marker in line:
return lines[:i] # Gibt alle Zeilen vor dem Endblock zurück
return lines # Falls kein Endblock gefunden wurde, alle Zeilen zurückgeben
# Hauptteil des Skripts
if __name__ == "__main__":
file_paths = choose_files()
if file_paths:
output_file = filedialog.asksaveasfilename(defaultextension=".gcode",
filetypes=[("G-Code Dateien", "*.gcode")],
title="Speichere die verknüpfte Datei")
if output_file:
process_gcode_files(file_paths, output_file)
print(f"Die G-Code Dateien wurden erfolgreich zu {output_file} zusammengefügt.")
else:
print("Kein Ausgabedateiname angegeben.")
else:
print("Keine Dateien ausgewählt.")
Haha interesting approach! I like it but prefer the version through the gui since I can add new prints whenever I want. I don’t have to plan out all m prints before. I know it’s a small difference but to me it makes Usability a lot better.
No worries about the German 😉 ich verstehe das ganz gut 😊