EGO 56V 5Ah Battery Repair
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- Опубліковано 2 лис 2019
- In this video we have a EGO 5Ah Battery on the bench. I purchased this item as a non-working for parts from ebay for around $55 USD. I just wanted to find out what the differences in the larger capacity battery may be and see what failed inside. It ended up being similar and it was a very fortunate easy fix. I will keep you up to date if the 30A fuse holds up under heavier loads in the near future. I may have to get creative with a 40 or 50A fuse replacement if I do have any issues. Hope it helps and Thanks for watching!
* update 4-14-2020: I have not had any issues with the 30A fuse in any tool I have. it's been holding up well!
*update 8-6-20: I ended up soldering in a 40A metal fuse links in this pack as a permanent fix and have not had any issues!
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Dude, awesome! Thanks for posting this. It's always interesting to see how a company built something and the simple fixes to what would otherwise be expensive replacements.
I got the red flash. Watched this, disassembled completely,still 53v. cleaned the contacts and now have green. Thumbs up.
Thank you for helping me fix a 4Ah ego battery with this technique. I had a blown fuse and replaced with a 30A automotive.
Awesome job. Just as a reminder the 30A may not hold up for all loads. The mower or chainsaw for example could possibly demand more than the 30A can stand in certain situations. Mine held up just fine until I got in a 40A fuse link and soldered in place. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for the video on how to disassemble the 56V 5Ah battery. Mine is used for the mower and wouldn't go through the charge cycle with the fan starting. Opened it up and everything looked OK. Started cleaning the contacts with emery paper and some film came out. Cleaned the 4 contacts best I could by sliding the emery paper between the contacts. Also, used a que-tip and rubbing alcohol on the charger contacts. Put it onto the charger and the fan started and its charging again. Not the first time li-ion batteries gave me trouble from the charging contacts. As the unit gets older may need to be cleaned more frequently.
I like to say TY I have and EGO 56V and by watching your video I fix it. It was blinking red and found it was a dirty contacts. TY again great information. I'm 67 years old and always wanted to work on electronics and your video give me that insight.
Awesome job. Thanks for your comment!
Thank you for posting this. I have two dead batteries I picked up free in the recycle bin at work and will see if they failed in the same way.
Thanks for the video, I also cleaned the contacts ( 2000 sandpaper ) and it's going way better, I've never leaf blown the section without running out of power & after cleaning the contacts it never skipped a beat.
Can you say more about what contacts you cleaned with sandpaper?
Thanks for the video. Took apart my 5A 56v battery that would not charge. On the charger it was just solid red. Had 46v on the battery. Checked the contacts looked black. Took out the contact board so I could get to clean them better. Filed down a wooden paddle (lolly pop stick) put some alcohol on it and cleaned those puppies right up. The stick turned black as. Put the pack together and PTL we got it charging. Thanks for your help.
Thanks for this video! All i could find was a 30amp fuse for my mower, hoping it'll hold up! For the first time in a year... My battery is finally charging. I am so happy.
Thanks for your videos. I have many EGO power tools and a 2000w power station with four 7.5ah battery. I recently started using one of my 7.5ah battery to power my custom electric recumbent trike. This EGO 7.5ah battery performs better than my 48v ebike battery. I’m glad u do tear downs on these packs. It gives me clues on what these batteries can handle. Keep sharing and posting your videos. They really help a lot.
Awesome! Thanks so much for your comment!
I have the nemisis also with 8 7.5s and just found 2 had a yellow bar in the charge level and showed 30 and 34 % and wouldnt reset or charge. Any ideas
Very happy that you are able to save the batteries pack and use it again. This is very cool. =D
Thanks so much for posting. Great work on making a clear, well-paced video. Very helpful.
Super helpful. I have the same fuse out on my 5 Ah. Very clever use of the car fuse.
Very nicely done sir!
I appreciate the informative video!
Just did the fuse replacement with a 30amp automobile fuse just like in the video. Worked like a charm!
Just remember it may be more temporary. I put a 40A fuse link in for a more permanent repair. These packs can easily hit more than 30A for a short duration.
Thanks for sharing!
@@ThriftyToolShed Would I expect that if the 30amp fuse blows in the battery, then the same behavior as before will start to happen again?
@@Guitrum
Absolutely could, but just know some of the blowers can pull up to 30A on turbo believe it or not! The mowers I have seen have a 40A fuse.
I had repaired a 1st gen 2.5ah all cells out of service. Replaced all cells, spot welded👌. Green led flashes once each second, cells discharging. Replaced Mjd117 on bms, now have a fully functioning 2.6ah with all new cells & nickel strips (I used 0.2mm pure nickel) 👍 A 4ah 1st gen came back to life after finding corrosion on a bms connector & plug. 👍
Watching your videos certainly helped accomplish this. So thank you for your time & effort uploading your videos/sharing your findings. Much appreciated.
I won't be selling any packs, I'll be using them myself & seeing how long my repairs last. 🙄
I only have 2 more packs to work on. Both 1st gen 4.0ah, with different bms in each. One pack was subject to the owner "dropping" it on the ground until it worked. Which led to a connector breaking away from its solder. New connector might solve that. While I was waiting for said connector I decided to start work on the other 4ah. All cells dead, no longer in service. 28 new 2600mah cells later & all new spot welded nickel, I now have a 5.2ah battery. 😁
I had charge balanced each cell & tested the battery, worked perfect. 👍 Looooong runtime.
Placing in either standard or rapid charger results in them both reporting the battery is already fully charged. It isn't. Couldn't swap out the BMS from other 4ah, different connectors.
1st gen 2.5ah (now 2.6ah) I repaired had the same connections, so swapped that in, both chargers charge battery properly now, rapid charger shows correct charging levels progress. Rapid charger gets to 100% & then shows one solid red led (over temp, which it isn't) & I'm suspecting that has something to do with the 2.5ah bms having different (lack of?) circuit/software for the 4ah temp sensors.
So can I assume the 4ah BMS is at fault? Everything about it works except charging. After only a few seconds the charger shows battery full.
Any common parts that fail causing this situation?. Anything I can test?.
Or do I need to wait for a donor bms 😒
Awesome job on your batteries! Thanks for your kind remarks and I am so glad the videos were helpful. It does seem like the BMS on the 4AH to me. The BMS seems to believe one or more cell groups is charged enough to be fully charged. All I would know is to check around for anything obvious around the cell monitoring area of the board. I have not worked on that exact issue yet. I have very little experience with the newer 3rd Gen packs with the fuel gauge. That's the only draw back to working hard to learn about the EGO platform early on. I had success on many battery packs and shared as we went on the journey of troubleshooting. I was fortunate enough to have several spare batteries and able to keep repairing as needed. The down side is I don't have a reason to buy the newer generation so I am falling behind on those differences in those boards of course. I really do like the segmented fuel gauge LEDs though....
Thanks so much for sharing!
@@ThriftyToolShed I haven't worked on any fuel gauge type yet either. Guess I'll have a 5.2ah sitting on the shelf (was a 4ah non fuel cell type, now with 2600mah cells & 5.2ah capacity) until I can procure a bms for it. I'm sure I'll find one.
Gotcha, it was the original 1st Gen 4ah pack. I was thinking it was the newer 3rd Gen. Since they have come out with the 4ah again...
Wish I had your tech skills and logical calm thinking brain sir!
Thank you so much for your kind comment! I have always liked sharing what we learn as we go because if I can do it so can anyone else who desires to! I wish I could show even more detail in most videos. I never dreamed how hard it would be to cut a video down so it's not super long and boring and still keep in the important parts!
Thanks for the video, I have a 4.0 amp hour battery and it had the exact same symptoms. Taking it apart I couldn't find any remnants of a fuse, maybe at never had one and the board was defective from the beginning. I got this battery 2+ yrs ago as part of an open box from Home Depot with my chainsaw. I don't think it even went with that chainsaw because he had to find the battery over to the side, that is why I didn't try to warranty through Ego, and it was marked "as is" from Home Depot. Soldered in a fuse an it now works.
Great job. Always a great feeling giving new life to a nice tool or equipment! Sounds like you may have saved some money on the open box as well!👍
That's a store marking (as is). Never needed to try with ego but have done so with other items. Never run into a company that wouldn't honor warranty if for no other reason than to make me happy.
Thanks for the video. Nice to have the disassembly explained. My one year old 5ah battery had intermittent faults where the red light would come on after around 10 minutes of mowing. Letting it cool for 5 minutes gave me another 10 minutes of mowing. Turned out to be a scorched contact on the plus terminal inside the battery . Upon disassembly I noticed that the plastic around this contact had some carbon soot, making the diagnosis a bit more obvious. Anyway, cleaning up the contacts (as Pete says below) did the trick.
Thanks for sharing. Several people have mentioned connection issues. I have had no connection issues on any of mine as of this time. This is good information.
So when you say "a scorched contact" do you mean a cold solder point or what? This is what my new battery did after 3 uses. And reading the comments on multiple sites, most say the customer service with EGO is very poor.
@@coloradostrong Here is an update the battery problem that I had with the scorched contact (this is one of the external contacts that connects the battery to the mower that must have heated up, pitted and left black soot on the contact's surface). I still have the defective battery but I finally found a way to contact the UK division of EGO directly and they replaced my 5ah battery with a 7.5ah battery under warranty at no charge. The mower has been running fine ever since. If you registered your battery with EGO when you bought it they maybe your best course of action is to pursue a warranty claim?
@@invisi-bill Thank you for the reply. Many users of this product complain of the battery going to a red light status, like it is overheating. Upon a closer examination of my barely used battery (7.5 amp), I notice there is grease on all of the contacts. Grease and dirt make terrible electrical connections. This is factory grease. It was on all of my chargers, coming from the battery terminals, and my other batteries had the same problem also. I took every battery apart, and used brake cleaner and carb cleaner spray to remove the nasty grease that was black from the dirt and debris. I took care to not let it run onto the surface mount electronics. I can say with confidence that the contacts being entirely crud filled with some thick factory grease was the problem, causing the equipment to turn off, as though the battery was overheated. Every piece of equipment I own from EGO had grease on it.
Thanks internet buddy. Had the same issue. Got my 7.5 ah battery back to new.
I have a 4A battery that this same trace burned open on. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for a great video. You reminded me of my old copier technician, with the use of captan tape. You are gifted and thorough, much respect. Liked and subbed.
Great informative video bro, I like your contents keep going!
Thanks for your comment!
You just saved me a few $. Thankyou!
Excellent video man thank you for doing this. I have 4 batteries for 3 different devices that are still under warranty one which is giving me errors and charging issues. I'm looking forward to whatever EGO is going to do for me but as soon as I'm out of warranty on these expensive things I'm going to be coming back to this video! My little DIY solder gun won't be up to the task tho so I guess I'll need an upgrade! Thanks again!
Did EGO replace your battery under warranty? Wandering how long did it take them to send you new one?
@@damirka83 things got out of hand and I dropped the ball. I was just in my shed this past weekend and kicked myself in the butt that I've got to get in touch with ego about this.
@@damirka83 I've had two fail in the last 3 weeks. I called them and registered them over the phone. They did a minute or so of troubleshooting and then sent me new ones. They arrived within a week. Very easy to deal with.
I'll be blunt.
I'm disgusted by this brand. I bought 2 blowers and a trimmer last summer 2021. In total, we have 2 x 5.0AH batteries and 1 2.5AH battery. (56v)
This being the 2nd summer - both of the 5.0AH batteries are having great difficulty charging, or even holding the charge.
You place it on the charger and not more than 10 minutes later, it stops charging. Sometimes, of the 5 flashing bars - it will drop right back down to 2 bars, after supposedly charging higher than that. I have to babysit the battery/charger by coming back every 10 minutes or so, to reseat the battery to begin charging again.
They are really expensive products and I haven't used them that much at all. We're talking maybe every other weekend for 1/2 hr. to 45 minutes per use.
Disappointed would be an understatement. I'm going through warranty replacement.
@@CH-jq7xg Good to hear - I'm going through warranty as well. I already registered everything last summer 2021, so everything should be on file.
Thank you for this! Good to get confirmation that this is 14S2P as I had suspected.
Glad it helped!
Battery Test Channel - well I am subscribing!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you! I’m a tiny/new channel just recording my shenanigans. I’m doing a video on ego batteries and chargers and I’ll be sure to credit you :)
Awesome, Wishing you the very best!
LOVE THIS CHANNEL. New Subscriber in Austin Texas! Currently looking to replace a Mod# BA2240 Ego battery (56V, 4.0 AH) that turned my mower into a lonely sculpture. Seems 4.0 AH was discontinued. Grr. Looking at "investing" $250 in a 5.0 AH ($250 for A BATTERY!)
Now, my tinker heart wants to crack open my old 4.0 AH and see if it only needs a $2 fuse!!!! I know soldering. And the old battery was heading to a recycling bin, anyway. Nothing to lose and $245 to save! YES. I will be cautious. Daddy taught me well. I will plan to touch-back with a debrief for you. --- Rock on!
Yes, safety first always, then lots of fun. Best of luck to ya!
Did you ever get around to experimenting on the 4.0amp battery to see if you can get it going again?
Saved me !! Thank you !!!
great work dude
Great video i wish i had the knowledge and understanding you have to be able to make these repairs should i ever need to.
Good video TTS. Thumbing up.
Thanks for your comment!
Nice video 👍
This is a great video and very helpful. I’m gonna try this fix.
I just did a fix on the two soldered in fuses on the power distribution board the SNT 2100 snowblower, by installing replaceable fuses. I had to go to MAXI fuses in order to do 60 amps. Might the battery fuse need to be 60 amps also?
The new ones still go bad... after 7 uses. Customer service have been useless.. Thank you for the video, I may be able to salvage it.
I had the same issue with my 5 amp battery, It died in 4 weeks. But customer service is helpful and is sending me a new battery
I've got 1 7.5, 1 2.5, and 3 5.0 (2 older, 1 newer) varying from 5 years old to 3 years with no real issues yet. The only thing the 7.5 goes in is the mower. That's my oldest battery. This year through I did notice a decrease in life though at the start of the season.
Well done! ✌😊
Thank you,. Thank you.. Thank you.. I had exact same symptoms, opened it up saw the blow fuse, but it is not comming off easily , can use 40 Amp auto fuse on the top of blow fuse . Thanks Thrifty Tool Shed!
Thank you! You’re the boss!
Thanks for video.
Good stuff sir
HaHa, that was sweet! Man I enjoyed watching that. I'm gonna order one off eBay and do the same thing just for fun lol Thanks for posting.
WARNING: When pulling apart the end with the power button, be careful to do this gently. Mine would not budge, then let loose, pulled off some of the wires which subsequently shorted and now I have a bit more complicated project on my hands.
Absolutely, that is mentioned in a few videos and many comments. Some are stuck a little more than others at times.
Saving the Planet …one battery at a time 💪🏼
I'm having an issue with my 5 and 7.5 ah batteries, and I didn't realize it was probably the batteries until today when I slipped in a 2.5ah to finish mowing. Basically, they won't trigger the mower to go change speed/gear when load changes (either low or high), they run at "medium" all the time, and if I hit thick grass, they blink yellow and shut-off. I rarely use the mower now that I've moved to a large lot and bought a riding mower, but I still use it to mow a drainage ditch that is too steep for the rider. Really would rather not get a new one if this can be fixed, it's only 4 years old this month.
Thank you Sir
Great Video very informative. Have you ever had trouble with the low end standard charger base. I am not getting any charging action on charger
Sorry, I have not. I would look over the electrolytics for any physically leaky or swollen. Most SMPS type chargers have a fuse, relay, and around half a dozen electrolytics. Other than that, I am not sure. I have 3 of these standard chargers, but mostly use the fast charger.
Thanks
I have a 2.5ah battery that when put in the charger, on the battery blinks Green, then Red, Orange, Green, Red. There is 56v on the outside connector, and 56 in the cells. Seen this? EGO sent me a warranty replacement by the way, great support and now hopefully i can make a backup battery. Or it's going on ebay for you to buy for parts :)
Well the packs do cycle through the red, orange,green led while it is charging, that is normal for my Gen2 packs. Are you saying that it just goes through and then stays red? How does it perform in a tool?
@@ThriftyToolShed It runs for full OK about 30 seconds in the blower, then flashes red, then turns off. I removed and reinstalled and it did the same thing for another 30 seconds. I put in the charger and it turned on the fan, blinked green on the charger for a few minutes, then turned full green (charged).
It sounds like one of the cells is dropping out. The low voltage cut out for cell protection at 2.7V or so. It could really be a bad cell and could be a loose connection or other issue with the BMS board. I have had pack with a bad cell drop off quick like that flashing red.
Very interesting. Was thinking about getting an Ego chainsaw and wanted to see some videos on how hard they are to troubleshoot. Great video man. Also what kind of accent is that Carolina’s? Thanks for the info.
Georgia!
I do like the EGO equipment. The chainsaw impressed me. Love my edger and string trimmer. Don't plan on going back to gas.
Thanks for your comment.
This might be a nice little ebike battery if you could bring the positive and negative outputs out of the case to Anderson connectors...I get about 20 watt hours per mile, so good for short in ranges up to 10 miles.
Many people use these or at least show much interest in these for EBikes for sure. Since my first EGO repair help videos over 6 years ago I have seen a lot of comments from the EBike community.
I could listen to your patient, calming, informative, southern accent all day... I'm pouring a margarita and putting this 12 minutes of bliss on loop...HA!
An SMD mount fuse would probably mount on the pads just fine and take up less space. You would just have to pull the specs to make sure the length, would allow the end caps to make enough contact with the solder pads.
Yes, I have bought a couple now. The Little fuse 40A. They are not cheap though.
@@ThriftyToolShed Try checking into some of the other brands. When going through Mouser and Digikey's inventory, I noticed the Bel Fuse brand was cheaper. Digikey has the Bel Fuse 0678H9400-02
(40A 125VDC) for 1.36 each. You could take that part number and run it through a Google search as well.
Do you have the EGO solar generator and any thoughts on it ? I heard from the EGO rep that they are going to be adding a solar panel option to it.
I do not, sorry!
Thank you for your videos. I have a 5 amp battery that is not working. When you push the indicator button, it does not light up at all (green or red).
I checked to see if there was any voltage left and I got a reading of 32 volts. Any idea what the problem might be?
Well the pack should not be that low safely. The cells should all be above 2.7V. so 32V means the average of the 14s in series is less than 2.2V or so. So I typically test each cell (in this case cell cluster since 5ah has 2p or 2 cells in parallel and 14s or 14 of these clusters of the 2 cells in series) most likely the cells have pulled too low, to find out you have to use DMM to test each cell and see if just one cluster or so is bad or if the cells are balanced but all are low it could possibly take a little boost charge and get above 46V or so it may start charging on its own charger again. I have a video from several years ago about cell balancing after my very first EGO 56V BMS repair.
Great video. Can you do one on the greenworks 82v 12.5ah gl900? They're going for a good price on battery clearing house and wanted to see one under the test. Thanks and great work!
If I run accross one I sure will. I have not come accross any Green works packs to work on yet. Very interesting though.
Does this battery have the stupid diagnosis function? On the newer batteries, by holding in the power indicator button for 10 seconds, it'll glow red if there's a fault/damage.
If you don't mind me asking your opinion... I have a 7.5ah battery that doesn't show any lights or function when the button is pressed. It's reading 56v after a charge and seems to hold well. I've tried swapping the bms with another non-functioning battery that originally had dead cells so I thought the bms I was swapping was good. Any ideas?
This is puzzling. I have not had a issue just like that. When a fuse is blown it will not have output or charge. I do not believe a broken wire to BMS will still allow charging and run the tool. A broken wire will stop the lights from working....
I have never worked on the 7.5Ah pack, but I assume the BMS is very close to the same, just more connections. If the replaced BMS is doing the same thing though, I would double check the wires on the connectors themselves. Also as mentioned in the video I have about the cell wiring, when you press the button it should wake up and have 10V or so accross the Capacitor on the DC-DC conveter. Best of luck to ya! Let us know what you find.
I got a laptop for $5 like this. Pulled it apart and discovered the fuse has blown. 😎
I just took apart a 2.5Ah Ego battery to troubleshoot why it isn't working... And the end cap was way more stubborn coming off than what you show in the videos. And when it did release the 6 small wires pulled out of the connector in the cap. You might consider including a warning about this. My pack is done now for sure. No way I can restore that connector.
I do have more recent videos such as 4ah pack repair videos that I mention that already. If I only knew how to get all of hours of video to include everything and still be only 10-20 minutes long I would have alot more subscribers for sure! I can't go back and change a 3 year old video but I do have newer ones that I try hard to fill in gaps on. Hate you had the issue, thanks for sharing the information.
I wish there was a service that could repair/rebuild our batteries. I have a 5.0 that doesn't hold a charge long anymore.
I have to vent, and then I'll post a question separately. :) So, I have had my mower for 4 years. This spring, I ran my mover with my 7.5 Ah battery once, and there was absolutely no trouble. The very next time I used the mower, it ran for about 10 or 15 seconds before stopping. If I popped open the lid, removed and reseated the battery, it ran briefly again before stopping. Popping it on the fast charger indicated the battery was charged. After trying some tricks suggested by the eGo community, it still doesn't work. You would think after four years, eGo would have either a repair service or some sort of refurbishing/core exchange program. People like me who don't know how to work with electronics (especially how to use a multimeter) are at a loss. $350 to replace such a battery is disappointing, and not being able to get it repaired by eGo is equally disappointing. All they tell me is to turn the pack in to a recycling center that accepts Li-ion batteries. I suppose buying a new pack works out to $85 a year plus the cost of charging versus paying for gasoline, having to prep the mower for fall storage, and hoping you can restart the mower the following spring. Paying $350 in one fell swoop takes my breath away, though.
Yeah, it is alot of money. Sorry you are having issues. I hope to get at least 8 years out of my packs. I have only had the one failure and within warranty and EGO was really good about that one. I was able to keep and repair it, that was one of my first EGO videos. I will not be going back to gas at this point, but yes if I lost a big pack it would be painful.
Hopefully you will have luck getting it back going!
What irks me the most is the 7.5ah is $350-400 to replace, you can get the whole mower + 5ah for that price, but worse, you can get a brand new backpack blower with that 7.5ah battery for $300 ($50 cheaper), while the backpack blower sans battery is $200.
I really enjoy this mower when it's working properly, but it really should last more than 4 years (or ~200 hours)
Thanks for getting back to me.. where can I buy extra cells.thanks
I have bought several bad packs from eBay over a several year period. At first I could get them for around $15-20 each and well worth it, I had not received a pack with all bad cells until more recently. It is getting hard to find a good deal on these, I guess more people doing the same is making them more sought after, but I watch patiently to buy the ones at a good price, I don't mind paying for what about 8 cells would be worth to me, I usually can get at least 8 good cells from one. Still always a gamble. We have had several viewers comment on the cells they think there packs have in them:
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX.
(Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
Hot air rework unit would make quick work of that stuff.
Yes, I like my Hot air station for sure. I use mine often on the SMD repairs etc. I don't use it on these close to the plastic connectors though.
Wonderful job on the video! I have this same exact problem but with the never version of the 5.0Ah. I'm getting a new one sent since it's only a month old but I'd like to try and fix the broken one. What would you suggest as a more 'permanent' fix? A 30amp strip link fuse? The blown PCB fuse on the newer battery looks slightly different. Wish I could post a picture. The surge also took out the Powerhead for the multi-tool. I'm going to take that apart next to see if there is something replaceable inside.
This link is similar to the ones I used on mine. They are about the same price if you buy 1 or 10! I had to trim them up a bend them and once soldered in I have a 40A link.
www.ebay.com/itm/Strip-Link-Fuse-Auto-30A-40A-50A-60A-80A-100A-/265083948597?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
@@ThriftyToolShed interestingly, the power head that also blew at the same time has a 50A ceramic fuse that I’m trying to find now and hopefully replace. You’ve given me confidence! Back to the battery, the gap left by the blown fuse is only a few millimeters. Looks like a copper strip with a small gap in between. How would you approach that? It looks slightly different from above. Maybe I didn’t fry the entire piece of metal.
I have a video on the 14" chainsaw controller repair. It blew the 30A fuse on the small controller in it and it blew due to shorted transistors in the controller. I got 2 of these type controllers working out of 5 I worked on. Sometimes it's more issues than Mosfets and fuse. The power head is different, I wish you luck. The battery seems different than mine. Mine simply had a pcb type fuse and the trace had blown away.
I have used the link from 50a fuse, just cracked the case and retrieved the fusible metal and soldered it in.
The 5 amp battery seems to have been discontinued here in Australia. I wonder if they have a reliability issue? I've been looking at one as a replacement for my 2.5 amp unit.
That's interesting. I have not heard of any issues on that level.
It's sad when manufacturers solder fuses to boards. 99.9% of people toss them instead of replacing which definitely takes some skill. Why not a user replaceable fuse and slot. I'd even go with a proprietary size and shape to insure correct voltage, etc.
I had the same problem years ago on a Black and Decker air station. Glass fuse was soldered to the circuit board and it failed in the first few uses. I replaced it with a fuse holder I could access from the side of the unit near the switch. Hasn't failed since!
PSA, friends don't let friends buy B&D tools.
Hit the 1K likes for you! Very helpful video - thanks
awesome! Thanks!
Great video. Do you know where to purchase a replacement BMS for EGO 56 Volt 5Ah battery pack?
I don't. I have tried to get some suppliers and was even going to look into getting some custom made. Several viewers mentioned they were working on it already and I don't want to get so many out there that they can't sell and someone gets stuck with them and the costs of buying a bulk order of them. I am waiting to see if others come through. One viewer has even shared the file on my FB group of the board connection points. It's a very handy layout. He's got a really good start on it.
Thanks for your kind comment!
Hi, I very much appreciate your videos. I have a couple nonfunctional batteries, they are fully charged, the light is solid green when you push the power button but then flashes yellow before cutting off. When you try to use them they only work for a second then cut off and flashes yellow. What's your thoughts on this issue, any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
I am replying from memory here, but I believe the orange flash is either a overload situation or a temperature issue. I assume you have already checked for mechanical bind etc. on your mower or tool of choice? Maybe you have even verified other batteries will run the tool just fine? If that is the case, it seems as the pack could have a issue with one of the thermistors (ntc) the pack has 3 of them that I know of. One of the ntcs is on the BMS board next to the battery monitor connector and each of the bank of 7 cells in each pack half has a ntc on them for temp monitoring. I think you can test the ntc at the BMS by way of the T terminal on the pack. Compare ohm reading with known good pack with the faulty one. I can give you more details when I get home but I am thinking at ambient of around 70F maybe negative terminal to T terminal measures around 10K-14K? I would check a known good pack to double check! Best of luck!
Thanks for your comment!
Great video! Thank you for much for all the upload. I have similar issue. My battery measured about 10 ohms from negative to T. The negative to positive is reading about 46V. I need to look at other of your videos on replacing the thermistor. What do you think is going on with my battery? I’m not sure if the original poster has this issue solved.
Thanks for your kind comment. T to - Should around 10K ohms at room temp. And for example 90⁰F outdoors it might read 6K and 50⁰F it might read 15K etc. It should not read 10 ohms. It is more NTC thermistors inside of the pack as well that feedback to board for each half and also temp. Monitoring board in the middle of the 2 pack halves for larger packs. Sometimes a bad connection on those boards can cause an issue. I think the 1st gen packs had push on connectors to the boards and balancing connections.
@@ThriftyToolShed I’ve measured the negative to T again and it is 10k. I’ve read the measurements incorrectly with the analog meter.
I’ve also measured each individual cell and all cells measured about 3.3v each. I guess that’s still ok. Do you think it’s still one of the thermistor? BTW, I could no find a video of your that showed the thermistor troubleshooting and replacement. Would you please point me to that?
Thanks again.
Yes, your cells seem good then. Your NTC on the BMS board checks well. It is still one NTC on both halves of the pack on the bottom side and those feed back to the BMS top connectors usually with small black wires as I mentioned a little bit on my very first BMS repair video.ua-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/v-deo.html
It is also temp. Monitoring boards in the center of the pack on 5ah packs and above that I mentioned in the 5ah pack blinking orange repair. ua-cam.com/video/6WBsDQ4cMpA/v-deo.html
Hi, I’ve got a 10ah battery with BMS (fuel gauge) on my Z6 mower. It seems to be completely non-responsive and yet it only has about 8 charge cycles on the battery so it’s brand new. I’ve never discharged it below 30%. Anyways, do you know of anywhere I could send this battery to be repaired/refurbished or send it as a “core” and get 2 smaller 5ah batteries in lieu of it?
I don't know of anywhere. Is it still under warranty so EGO will send replacement or have you already done that.
If you already have a replacement and just want that one swapped out I have 2 5ah packs I would send, but they are both the older 2nd gen packs. The ones with the one LED for the charge indicator?
Excellent video, learned a lot! When the battery is in the tool, do the center terminals of the 4-terminal interface have any function, or is it just the +/- terminals supplying power that are active? I have a Greenworks 60v mower, but I suspect the interfaces are similar. Thanks Thrifty Tool Shed!
The tools usually get the D-terminal and the + and - on the EGO tools and the charger usually gets all four of I remember correctly. I did a couple quick videos about the T-terminal and the D- terminal due to the number of questions surrounding the topic. I shared what little I had found out about it. Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed Looked up your prior videos on the T and D terminals, very useful. I have Ryobi tools that use only the +/- terminals to supply power to the tool. The pack will shut off if it overheats or falls below threshold voltage, so it appears the smarts are built into the pack. Thanks for making great videos!
@@joelk9603
Yes the Ryobi 18V and the 40V have the Mosfets in the pack that will cut the power from the cells. I assume Ryobi likes doing that so that many of the tool only prices can be kept really low? Ryobi high capacity packs are really pricey to me though?
@@ThriftyToolShed Since the price for a 60V/30A N-Channel MOSFET is less than a dollar in quantity, that should not add too much to the price of a battery pack or reduce the cost of the tool by much. It would also simplify the battery/tool interface by keeping the overcurrent shutoff components in the replaceable battery pack.
Very true, I believe they over size these mosfet to like 200A if I remember correctly to keep them from being an issue/problem. Still I see way more Ryobi packs in general with issues due to the BMS than any other manufacturers such as DeWalt , Milwaukee or Makita that just send the signal for the tool to shut down. Just something I noticed since the li-ions came out.
Looks like a current shunt. If you do a search for GPU power limit bypass, you'll see them used on Graphics cards to determine the amount of current going thru the connector.
It does look very similar to a SM shunt. This one is in fact a PC trace fuse though. I am not sure at what current the shunt would fail at? I ended up soldering a 40A fuse link accross mine for a more permanent fix. Thanks for your comment.
I have the exact same battery and I have 4 acres on my 21 inch ego push mower has been amazing but after about two years I’m running it hard. The battery started having trouble charging and then when it was show it was fully charged I’d put it in the mower and could run maybe 10 minutes and then it was giving me the flashing red. And I love the video except I’m new to taking these batteries apart. My dad showed me how to do a lot but one thing I don’t know is what to set the meter on when testing the battery. so I went to test mine. I’m thinking it’s on the right setting but it’s sparked pretty good when I unscrewed that top piece for the fuses. There was a piece of grass dry dead grass that was in there. Please let me know what setting the meter should be onwhen testing different things on the battery. And since it’s parked like that, do you think that I fried it?
I am not sure exactly what you mean by "unscrewed the top piece for the fuse"? If you are talking about taking the connector block off the fuse then where did it spark? What arced to what? I always have my meter on Volts DC while testing the battery voltage. That is typically indicated with a V followed by a solid line with a dashed line parallel with it. Some meters may simply show it as VDC. You will see my meter in that mode testing voltage in many videos.
DON'T understand ANY of this electrical stuff BUT I'm digging how you used a auto fuse to fix it, I would think it would be beneficial to of soldered one of those auto fuse holders to the terminals & located the actual fuse OUTSIDE the case for future replacement of the fuses when they blow
Yes, I almost did that with a fuse holder and drilled hole to route outside. I instead used a fuse link to more permanently fix it. I later soldered on the 40A metal fuse link strip for 2 reasons: The main reason is that the automotive fuse even though it worked well temporary it was not rated for 60V. The other reason is 30A may not be enough for some heavier loads such as mower or chainsaw. It did fine with weed trimmers and blowers though.
Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed 😳💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕
Newbie questions: I have a 2.5A battery I've had for several years that charges, but only works for several minutes before discharging. Is there any way to recondition it? A special charger that might do this? Also, is it better to leave batteries on the charger after they've charged or to remove them until needed? I'm a residential user . . . only use my tools about 1x per week. Thanks in advance.
I have had no issue leaving mine on the charger if used regularly. I would store it out of charger if not used for a few weeks though. as far as the pack, I have some videos on that after I did my very first video repairing the 2.5ah 56V pack. I did mention that the cells had gotten out of balance and I used a Drok DC-DC converter to help me bring the voltage up and you can also use a DC power supply if it has CV and CC so you will need the Constant Voltage and Constant Current and you can charge individual cells up to be balanced as well. In the videos following that first repair I did some updates on the pack and had to replace some cells that had pulled too low to have good capacity still. You may find some of that helpful as yours most likely is similar to mine after that repair. If the cells get too unbalanced or if some of them drop in capacity too quickly the pack will shut down early as it tries to protect the cells from over discharge. Best of luck to ya!
I’m sorry if this is in your links but I couldn’t seem to find it, but what are the silicone pieces you used to cover the new fuse? Any info is greatly appreciated.
I used several layers of Kapton tape as an extra layer over the fuse.
amzn.to/44O1fqW
Good job. What cells are those if needed to be replaced?
I could not find any information on mine, but we have had several comments from viewer about these cells.
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX.
(Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
Hope it helps. Thanks for your comment!
If you were going to recommend a brand to buy base on the battery quality, what brand would you recommend for yard tools? We have a Ryobi 40 volt weed eater. It came with a 2.5 and has worked well, but seeing bad reviews on the batteries with the same tools post pandemic.
I would absolutely go with EGO. I really haven't had many issues with the batteries. Really only one of my batteries failed that I bought new. The warranty replaced that one and EGO told me to keep the old one and recycle it. I ended up learning how to fix it and it started some videos on these and then I bought some broken ones (and some were sent in for us to look at on the bench just to help the channel and help us learn). So after much learning and working on the EGO I have really appreciated the build quality in these and I really like all my EGO tools. I have blowers, string trimmers , hedge trimmers, edgers, push mowers, pole saw and even chainsaws. I enjoy all the power of the tools and the batteries are truly leaps ahead of Ryobi 40V and Kobalt packs from my experience. I think Green works platform may be the only one really close to EGO at this point. I don't have any myself to say for certain. All high density packs are going to give issues eventually, I typically keep the size of mine 5AH and below. 5AH is my go to battery size. It's large enough to last even in the blowers, but still not terribly heavy. The 7.5AH and above are not only super heavy they have so much more potential for failure with even more added cells in the pack. The 2.5AH has 14 cells in series (14S). The 5.0AH has 28 cells and the 7.5AH has 42 cells. It's a 3P so 3 sets of the 14S cells in parallel. Keep in mind the best way to buy batteries is in the tool combos. So it's much better to buy most tools you want with the battery included since you will usually want more batteries over time. The tool only price can look attractive from these big companies, but it's a much better deal in the long run to get the pack included Usually. Hope you found this helpful and best of luck with what even you buy!
good job, ain't it great when you can make broken things work again! Is advice about the danger of accidentally shorting these batteries a good idea?
It is a great feeling indeed. I am not sure if you are referring to shorting the packs together like when people boost packs (Not accidential though) or the cells themselves individually shorted together. Either way, I have a video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" that I have pointed to many times to help with frequently asked questions and I also have many videos mentioning how it's not a good idea to short packs to each other also. Thanks for your kind comment!
I have a couple of 2.5 AH and a 2.0 AH battery that someone was throwing away. When I put them in my EGO charger, I get no indication that they are charging. I am hoping I can Frankenstein between the batteries to make one of them work. How do you suggest I go about doing this as none of the batteries line up when charging.
Unsure without looking at them myself. I would say test voltage output and see what voltage is at the terminals. It could be a blown fuse it could be cells are too low. It could be a bad BMS board. You just have to start troubleshooting and looking into it. I have several videos I shared about issues that I have found with several different packs. I don't know how I can help much more than sharing all that I have learned so far!
Best of luck to ya!
Your video is very informational!!
I have a question, how would i wire this Nexus Ego battery up for pass-through charging? or direct charging, the wiring schematic?
thank you.
Thanks for your kind comment! I am not exactly sure what you are asking as far as the charging goes. Are you referring to Nexus power station or Nexus escape?
@@ThriftyToolShed not exactly, basically looing to charge it while discharging it. i want to charge it directly while using it so the power is sustained and stays charged, sorta like what this guy did: ua-cam.com/video/gXusz-2bRE4/v-deo.html
but he wont share how to wire it up in the battery for pass-through charging.
Where do you recommend buy the replacement batteries from and which model (18650 2500mAh 20A Battery)?
I had bought several bad or non working packs of eBay years ago and fixed most of them and a couple I just parted out the cells that were in like new condition and capacity. I just use a CC or constant current supply to charge up individual cells to the same voltage charge level as the pack I am repairing. Several viewers have commented about the cells they believe the packs they have in them...
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX.
(Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
I've got an ego 5.0 battery that will not charge, and the BMS light does not turn on when you press the button. However I do get 54v across the battery terminals. Q12 does not test as shorted. Any suggestion or thoughts where to look next?
I would start looking around the DC-DC converter area. Which Q12 is in as well. The caps around the transformer, I think it's usually around 10V on the caps when the button is pressed and the bms wakes up. I have some videos on the 4ah and 5ah packs and I mention in one of those a little bit on this part of the circuit. Never had alot of issues with it but sometime the issues is there . From time to time I have seen bad transformer and the Q12 is still bad even though it usually fails shorted, I think occasionally it opens up.
Any recommendation to keeping a battery pack healthy? What makes them fail? I hear about overheating. Is this just something that can randomly happen? thanks.
For most packs, some protection is built in. So overtemperature is usually picked up by packs NTC Thermistor and cuts the pack/tool before really bad damage. The Battery Management System also stops the pack from over charge and under discharge. With that said, most packs built in a tight (brick) configuration have overtemp issues at least over time if the are run hard.
Even if the pack does shut down the pack can still be adversely affected (in my opinion). I really look for the pack designed with great air flow. (Such as EGO) Another minor detail is that li-ion cells like to be stored below 30% if stored for long period of time. Li-ion packs are so much better than the older Ni-cd packs, but they can still give issues for sure, for one thing we are working through the learning and adaptation of the BMS with alot of manufacture's having learning curves and issues. Exciting to see how much better they are getting and how much longer they are lasting. Hope your packs hold up, we do what we can!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for info
Thanks for the video. I have a question on a non working 56v battery that is flashing red. I checked the power and it shows 60V of power, so it seems to have good voltage, but still does not charge or work. Does this mean it has a bad ntc? If so, what is needed to by-pass or fix?
I know the packs charge to 58V typically, I must say I have not read one at 60V yet. That is close to over voltage, I say that because if some individual cells have issues that means some cells could possibly be under and some over the average of 4.3V on that 60V? I would check each individual cell voltage and see if they are all reading ok. Also, is the pack flashing red when you press button right away or is it showing solid green first and then blinking red after a couple seconds?
The NTC's typically read somewhere around 10k ohms at room temp, I talked about this some in the video "what is the T-terminal" it is 3 termistors on the 2.5ah pack.
@@ThriftyToolShed i have a battery that does what you said, blinks green, then red. What does that mean? Appreciate your help.
@@charmer4you well if it is blinking green it is usually shorted Q12 transistor as mentioned in the first 56V pack BMS repair. If also blinking red, that is usually low cell detected. I showed this in the 4ah pack repair#3.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks so much!!!!
Great video. If you have to replace any of the cells, what brand does Ego and you use?
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
I get asked this over and over I have a video discussing some of this.
ua-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/v-deo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you!
Do you have any experience with generic replacement batteries for EGO? Unfortunately I purchased one recently, used it a few times and it now flashes amber/yellow and shuts itself off, though fully charged. Ever think of opening up an EGO battery repair business, me thinks you'd do quite well.
I really only have the 2 I have done review videos on. They both have been great for me so far. No issues. I do see some bad reviews on these now so some have had issues for sure. They are made very similar to EGO and I show it in the video that the BMS seems to just be a copied EGO board really. So I would check all thermistors and connections and (also the middle temperature monitors board) very well if blinking orange. Thanks for your kind comment, best of luck to ya!
You got a great deal for 55$, here in Canada that 55$ turns into 95$ plus tx. A new 5 amp EGO battery would be around 300 to 400.
Gotcha, it is hard to find a deal too. I have been able to fix about 6 this way and I am happy to have all my packs at a really good price. I did buy one pack that had several bad cells and I just used it as a donor cells for other packs since half of them charged up and discharged tested fine. The best deal I had was found one in the Home Depot recycle bin and ask the manager if I could have it for the cells and he said, sure, I don't care! And it was a simple fix.
I don't know if Lowes will do that or not. I would not be scared to ask anywhere that was a convenient recycle bin though!
@@ThriftyToolShed I will remember the tip about the recycle places to look for a few new cells.
Yes, unfortunately since the pandemic I have not had near the luck finding these in recycle bins...
Great video, due you know what fuse they recommend in the 7.5 AH battery mine was in a flood.
I have shared on here in several comments that I used 50A fuse links and soldered them in. There is no direct replacement that I know of. I bought the longer links and cut them down and soldered them in place. I needed the 200w iron, alot of mass to hear up to unsolder and resolder.
Something similar to these...
www.ebay.com/itm/Strip-Link-Fuse-Auto-30A-40A-50A-60A-80A-100A-/263085698399?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
Greetings, I have a blown trace fuse on my 56V battery as well (I'm pretty sure it blew when my chainsaw bogged down on a limb under tension). Any precautions to take before attempting to solder on a auto mini fuse as you did (did you disconnect anything for example)? Also, and this may sound silly, do you think its necessary to unsolder and remove the old trace or could one simply solder the new fuse right on top of the blown trace fuse. Thank you!
Hi, it is always a risk with lithium cells that is for sure. I treat them like gasoline. So excellent question. I make sure nothing is able to touch across or short while moving the connector board around even tape up connections if needed. Being very careful I have never had an issue. I also only put the mini fuse in mine as a temporary fix until I got in some fuse links rated for 40A and then I soldered them in place of the temporary fuse. These links were from eBay as 40A fuse links and I had to use these as they were the only fuse small enough to fit the low clearance of the housing. I did remove my trace fuse on mine before soldering the new one in because it was burned and also it gave me a little more room on the board to mount the replacement.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you sir! Is this the fuse you were talking about on Ebay? www.ebay.com/itm/313398931375
This link is similar to the ones I used on mine. They are about the same price if you buy 1 or 10! I had to trim them up a bend them and once soldered in I have a 40A link.
www.ebay.com/itm/Strip-Link-Fuse-Auto-30A-40A-50A-60A-80A-100A-/265083948597?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
@@ThriftyToolShed boom, awesome. had trouble locating these so really appreciate the link, thanks again! buying a some supplies off your amzn link today.
I have a EGO battery from 2017 that is the older style. It will sit on the charger (fan running) and blink at 25% like it's charging but never charge beyond that. Once I take it off the charger the voltage will quickly drop. Any idea what could be wrong? Thanks
Seems like a cell issue. If you feel comfortable doing so, you can test individual cells and see if some are lower than others all should be fairly balanced and all should be above 2.7V.
Great video 👍 is that fuse a common failure point with these batteries?
It's very rare to me. I tend to see it when people use the packs with things other than EGO equipment. It's popular to use them for ebikes etc.
Hi, great video.
I have a 7.5 battery that shows no lights at all either on the 5 segment power meter or when placed on the charger.
I have no electrical experience but am reasonably mechanical.
Can this be fixed please?
Thanks for your kind comment. I still have not worked on a single 3rd gen pack with the 5 segment fuel gauge yet. I have worked on so many 1st and 2nd gen that I have plenty still. With that said, I don't know how similar the connector board is on the 3rd Gen packs. I would check the fuse. I have had a couple blown fuses and I shared one of the 4ah or a 5ah on video showing that. Worth checking out. Best of luck to ya!
Do you repair the batteries? I have a 5.0 that shows 56.6 volts but the led flashes orange
Hi,
When I get time I try to do the videos to try to help others. I could not attempt all the repair request if I tried. Usually the flashing orange is a temperature issue. If the pack is not really overheating, it could be a NTC thermistor or the boards in between the pack halves reading bad or bad connection. Hope it helps.
Great video! I just bought the pole saw attatchmet for my powerhead. I was using it to cut back some arborvitaes & think i knicked my wire fence. The powerhead abruptly stopped & after i checked to make sure nothing was bound up, it wouldnt do anything. Full charge, chain on saw spins, just no go in the powerhead. Does this sound like something that may have blown the fuse in the battery & why my powerhead isnt working? I dont have another battery to test out the tool & need to get the right bit for those screws. I was just hoping to not spend $ on a battery, especially if thats not the problem, whole setup (minus pole saw) is only a year old, but i cannot for the life of me find my receipt. Thanks for this vid, great work 👍
It could be a fuse in the pack for sure. The best way to check (since you don't have another one to verify) is to put a multi-meter on the packs + & - terminals and see if you have voltage there. It should be around 56V depending on charge. If the fuse is blown it will not read any voltage. Hope it helps and thanks for your kind comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed yea I went to do that, but my cheap voltmeter prongs aren't long enough to reach the batteries +/- terminals in/on the pack. I'll figure that out or borrow my buddies meter right up the road, country living ftw 😁 Thanks for the reply, I'll start with testing that, definitely subscribing to your channel & have youreself a great day! 👍
Thank you for your videos, they are very informative! May I ask a question? I have a Ego 56 v 5Ah battery that will not light when placed on the charger nor does the charger fan come on to indicate charging. The voltage across the positive and negative terminals is 46.6 volts. I took the battery apart following the instructions in one of your videos and found two swollen cells. Would replacing these cells likely fix the issue with it not charging? I’m hesitant to go through the process of replacing them if it won’t fix the problem. Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
It is hard to say for sure. I have not seen one not charge or try to charge with just a couple bad cells unless they are very bad. With that said, it could be though. I know when the voltage is low on the pack that the standard charger will pulse and try to charge or boost so it may be able to charge. If the pack indicator is blinking red when pressed it could be the problem....
Thanks for the video, I have the exact same problem with my ego battery, may I know where you get the 40A metal fuse that you end up using? link?
I used one similar to this and cut it down and soldered it with a larger 200W soldering iron.
www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pieces-Strip-Fuse-Link-40A-MERCEDES-AUDI-VW-BMW-40-Amp-Glow-Plug-Diesel-/313297316433?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you so much!
Great vid, I just got an Ego there a few weeks back and the battery won't charge more than 2-3 bars. Gonna mow the lawn a few more times before I call them about it and get a replacement.
BTW I cant tell are they 11850s with something wrapped around them or something else. Any idea?
OLT The fuse should be independent of the total amp-hour rating since it deals with spikes in current..
The cells are 18650 cells with a phase change sleeve.
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
@@ThriftyToolShed Yes I meant 18650. I think 11850 is a directory enquires phone number where I'm from lol. That should make it trivial to fix the battery down the line. I've never heard of phase change sleeves so I'll have to do a bit of googling. Thanks for the reply.
Thank you for spreading the knowledge!
I have an interesting scenario for you. I know you don’t have much experience with the 7.5 batteries but figured I’d run it by you incase I missed anything. The BMS shows it’s low battery (one red led segment) but when hooked up to the charger it blinks fully charged and doesn’t charge the battery. I measured voltage at + and - terminals and it’s giving me 55V. Any ideas? Thanks again for the awesome videos!
Thanks for your kind comment! I actually still do not have the newer packs with the segmented gauge. for that reason I can't say for sure. I would most likely lean toward checking voltages across all 14 cell sets and make sure one of them is not low. It could possibly be one cell set causing this and why it still shows 55V. Possible to have 13 sets that are close to fully charged and one that is so low the BMS is showing an error. Wish I could tell you more, but I have so many original and repaired packs now that I have no reason to spend money on the newer packs, but I do love that fuel gauge! Best of luck to ya?
@@ThriftyToolShed awesome! I’ll take it apart and let you know if I come across the solution. Thanks again!
I just pulled one apart my 5.0ah to find it didn't have that fuse. Literally nothing in that area or anywhere else on the board. I can't get the light to do anything. Do I have a bad bms? Is there any way to fix that? Would appreciate any guidance or help.
I have never seen one not have a fuse. I have even had viewers send photos on the Facebook page and yes it is there. The 1st and 2nd gen has the trace fuse on the connector board as mentioned and shown. On the 3rd gen some of them have a black SMD style fuse on the connector board.
Not an electronics guy so I may be wrong but I thought as voltage goes up amperage goes down so a 12 volt 30 amp fuse is like 60 amps at 56 volts right?
Well 12v is just the rating. Of course just as wire gauge it is based on the actual current the insulation has a voltage rating. I mentioned this was just for testing. I purchase metal fuse links 40A and 50A variety and soldered one in once I received them. Hope this answers your question?
My 2yr old 7.5 are the old style and i just saw for first time that when i was bluetoothed to it checking levels 2 of my four on this nemisis were showing yellow instead of the usual green and read 30 and 34% each and when put in charger they do not and when i reset them by holding down the button it did nuthin. Any ideas? They is expensive.
Hi,
Usually the yellow is showing a temperature issue. These have a NTC thermistor per pack half and also a middle temperature monitoring board. I have one video about the pack having a bad connection and causing the blinking orange or yellow Light. It may not always be the case, but is the most common I have seen. I have shown in video a loose connection found in the middle board of one of my 5Ah packs. Some versions of these packs had soldered connections and some do not. They simply are slide on connectors. Many viewers mentioned they simply could drop theirs and it would sometimes work again. Hints the loose connection. No, they are not cheap. Best of luck to ya!
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