Anyone who uses bad language in my comments will be deleted. Don't waste your time. We can very easily express ourselves completely without the need of that.
The cells in the battery are sanyo cells. The battery model number and date codes are etched in the red wrapper on the cell. In the case of the cells in the ego batteries you will have to remove the black sleeves to see the etched numbers on the cells. Just hold the at an angle in the light and turn them till you see the numbers the sanyo cells start with 2 letters and end in 1 or 2 letters. Tin the case of the batteries you have with the yellow insulator ring the etched number should be ur18650v..
Thanks for sharing. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have..... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
I accidently found a quickway to solder. If you use bevel tip and apply a little bit of tip tinning solder first on the bare steel then soldering will be a breeze. That's what i ended up doing when soldering those 10 awg bare wire to the cells' strip. That was very quick and didn't overheat plastic underneath. Thanks for the teachings.... helped me out.
That is how I always prep pads, like on this newer video of connector replacement. Good Flux is a life saver as well. Thanks for sharing! ua-cam.com/video/85KmNgENFEc/v-deo.html
Yes sir, nothing at all wrong with spot welding, but I have just had better luck with replaced cells(ones I recycle/repurpose) because the surfaces are usually hard to get back making great contact without solder. Thanks for your comment!
your patience is very commendable. I don’t have the time to repair my Ego batteries. I like the tools, but the batteries have been a disappointment. My, even new batteries act strange, and after a full charge, may flash red for no reason. 5ah battery , sitting on the shelf, sometimes heats up the lights turn red. And, I am not rough on my tools; they are treated with kid gloves. These batteries cost more than my first car, and are way too expensive to behave so badly. Will be scraping Ego tools and go with Lowe’s Kobalt. Less cost for competitive performance. Fed up with expensive equipment that doesn’t operate correctly.
Thanks for your comment. Just wanted to mention in case you did not know, these bring good money on eBay etc. even in non-working condition. I know because all my videos except my very first battery repair was not my original purchase so I bought non-working items from eBay to learn and share more about. I was surprised at what people were bidding to get these items. I do know Kobalt packs give issues a good bit also as I have worked on several for friends. My EGO stuff has been really good so far except that first video of the battery failure which EGO made good under warranty. I have the mower, 2 string trimmer, 2 blowers, 2 chainsaws, pole saw, edger, hedge trimmers. Hate your EGO stuff has not held up well. Best of luck to ya!
Thank you for your vid. That's a ton of work and know how. I wish EGO would make these packs so we could EASILY replace the individual cells like replacing flash light cells.
That would be great, although the cells would have to be secured better than replaceable ones. Maybe if they had positive locking terminals, like a nine volt battery.
I do sometimes as I have shown on the cell ends if needed. Typically I have not had any issues with solder sticking to the strips myself. I use flux to help though. I also almost always spot weld when possible now that some good spot weld boards are so cheap and work really well.
Thanks for the videos. I have some older EGO products, NO experience with electronics and no repair facilities near me so I will be using your videos alot. Thanks again
When you recycle your cells, rip the tabs off the bad cells, but keep them welded to the good cells. Your recycled cells will then have tabs that can be soldered to directly. Then just solder tab to tab into the pack. This way avoids soldering directly on the cell, and the the heat that would pass into the cell. I repaired my an ebike battery with this method, when the last cell group failed. It worked great. I soldered a heavy copper wire in parallel to each tab, then in serial to the rest of the battery. No cell was soldered directly.
Yes, that is a good method. Soldering directly is not even recommended of course. I would rather spot weld when possible. I have soldered directly without issues hundreds of times, but you have to do as stated. Keep it cool and use a high wattage Iron so it's super fast. The whole reason for the showing soldering in a few videos was to discuss doing it quickly and keeping it cool since many on UA-cam show it incorrectly. I have many videos discussing I would rather spot weld if possible. The first few repairs years ago I did like you mentioned here just leaving the tabs on. I had some issues with that as well early on since I was not using high enough wattage iron. Thanks for sharing.
@@ThriftyToolShed Good to know you've tried this. I've looked at some less expensive ways of spot welding, but they seemed a bit dicey. I've yet to have the need to justify spending the money for one. Thanks.
@Eidetic Goone I am very impressed with some cheaper units. Some are not so good for sure. The BIFRC (high current version) and 3GOA has been a really good one for the price and you just add your own battery pack. I have been spot welding much more than any other method since a few of these low costs ones work well. www.amazon.com/dp/B0B14VQ31N/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_84241WWZNZJ9SFWQBTVD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml2&tag=thriftytool04-20
I have been talking flux on this channel for well over 6 years. Rosin flux for the larger components and Amtech 559 for SMD components for the most part. It is worth every penny...
Very informative video. Cell balancing is important. All 14 cells get the same charging current , and all get the same discharge current. If you install a fully charged cell among 13 nearly drained cells then this cell will will get overcharged during a battery charge cycle which could be explosive for that installed cell! Likewise installing a drained cell among 13 fully charged cells and using the battery in a tool will drain this cell excessively to failure ( charging it in reverse polarity). With another 14 cells in parallel (in 5 Ah battery) even more issues occur. The installed drained cell will immediately get charged by the the second set of charged cells (but again overcharging the 13 other fully charged cells). I can only hope the BMS circuit should help correct or detect some of these cell balancing issues. A protective circuit inside each cell is another helpful thing. NiMh cells can cause fires if over charging or excessive draining to reverse polarity.
Correct, I always try to balance as close as possible of course. These lithium cells are very needy of the proper BMS. The EGO BMS like many others will monitor individual cells. Now when a BMS is working properly the following will happen. If a fully charged cell is put in with 13 much lower cells, the pack will stop charging as soon as the 1 charged cells shows 4.2v therefore your pack capacity is around 0%. Of the opposite is done and a discharged cell is put in with 13 charged cells, then the pack will be similar about 0% usable capacity because the discharge cell will not charge In charger if the others are at 4.2v and if the cell is around 2.7V BMS will cut out pack output!
One of the best ways for me is to disconnect the BMS board and use a balancing board like in the link below for example. If not very unbalanced I will take time to bring up the few that are lower up to the higher voltage cells. For example bringing up a couple that are around 2.8V and the highest ones may be around 3V. So I will bring all up individually to 3V. It takes much time on a large pack so the board below works by soldering them on to each cell's test point. Some hobby chargers will do this also,but usually it's hard to find up to 14S model. amzn.to/3OUUsXm
BIt of a crazy question, would it be possible to take the battery level indicator pcb board,from a (dead) modern series EGO battery pack and put it in an older series EGO battery pack, or would the battery indicator module/pcb board, bms and/or wiring (between the newer & older series batteries) likely be too different to allow the swap to work properly(?)
I believe some of the wiring maybe different, but at least the connectors are the same, so it is most likely possible. Some newer packs have an extra white wire from the pack. The Gen1 and Gen2 even had different connectors. So, at least it should be possible going from Gen2 to Gen3, but I haven't tried to do it yet.
Thank you for the great informative video! I know now that I won’t be repairing my ego batteries when they fail. I’m pretty handy repairing appliance’s and other equipment and I think I’ll pass on cell replacement. Did like your fuse repair on your 5ah Ego video repair!
At time marker 2:35 you are able to pry the plastic housing apart enough to slip the bad battery out of the black plastic holder. I had no luck with that process. I worked at it for a while and eventually ended up breaking the plastic holder. Which wasn't the end of the world as I could reassemble it with the screws. It seems like the contact strips are welded on AFTER the batteries are put into the plastic holders. This means that in order to properly service these, it might be necessary to take all the metal strips off of at least one side of the pack and reattached them after battery replacement. This is a disappointing amount of work, but might still be worth it to get the pack working again.
Unfortunately all packs are basically made this way and yes most of the time you will have to take one side completely a loose to get the bad cell out. Similar to a DeWalt Flexvolt pack I recently repaired. Every now and then where it is located you will get by taking the strips off of a few around it and pry it out as shown here. Sometimes you may be able to open up the hole in the plastic cage enough to push it through one side. I chose this repair to show since it would take less video time and still show alot of what takes place to replace a bad cell. Location of the cell in the pack is the determining factor of that one. Sometime it's worth the time but not always. It is often more than just one cell bad in a pack as well. I have had good luck with the EGO pack repairs so far making them really worth the effort, especially since they are over $200. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for your detailed and thoughtful reply. I've just purchased one more "for parts" 2.5 Ah battery from eBay. We will see how that works out.
Well if I wanted to save some money and replace all the cells by myself it sounds like a whole day of yelling and swearing but the satisfaction of saving a couple hundred dollars and the fact that i actually did the project makes the savings priceless
what is the order number for the replacement cells and where can one order them? I looked up the # shown in the video and had no hits. Appreciate the direction.
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 6 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have..... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
Thank you for your videos. I have an Ego 2.0 Ah BA2100 battery (manufacture date of Feb. 2015 and has worked flawlessly and used about 3 or 4 times/year and stored as recommended) that has the flashing deep orange lite when the button is pressed, I was using it on a new weed trimmer and didn't notice that I ran it until it ran out of juice and completely stopped. I tried to charge it but only got a solid red light on the charger after it tried to charge the battery. Total voltage is showing 45 volts. I opened the battery up and tested each of cell's voltages using the dots on the BMS board. It seems that all of the cells (14 in total) with the exception of B1, all have approximately 3.45 volts. B1 is showing .22 volts. I don't see any bulging going on that I am aware of and am wondering if you are aware of the location of the battery cells in the housing and where I would find cell B1. Also, do you know what battery would be a good replacement and where to purchase. Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this and information you can provide.
Hi, It's been some time since the EGO battery repairs, but this video below may help? I was helping someone with the wiring on the 2.5Ah and it may be the same or very similar. I usually get my cells from donor packs. In a crunch you could use a high quality 2000mah cell from 18650 battery store etc. It just will not have the phase changing sleeve unless you can get the old one off and put on it. I discuss a little more about replacement cells in the video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" also. Thanks for your kind comment! ua-cam.com/video/RfTJODoh8Q4/v-deo.htmlsi=sPuzNsCXfxWoOCqm
This is a great video! Just what I was looking for. I’ll try the same repair. Maybe use a 40 amp? I replaced the soldered fuses on the SNT2100 snowblower, adding replaceable fuses and had to go to MAXI fuses to do 60 amp. So I’m wondering if the battery fuse should match these??
It does depend on the pack size. Although no rating on the trace I have used 40A fuse link strips soldered in with no issues. The 30A temporary fuse actually held up for testing in the 5ah pack. I did put in the 40A fuse link strip when it arrived though. I would think the 7.5Ah and larger should be 60A. Thanks for your kind comment!
Ego does a good job disguising their batteries. The yellow is a sure sign. They are LG batteries with red shrink wrap, spacer, and then plastic shrink in green. Imagine replacing all the batteries with 3600 mAh 18650 batteries. So 14 would come out to 50.4 Ah.
Well it's 14s so 14 in series and that means the voltage adds up to over 56V, however the mah is same as individual cell. The pack would be 3.6Ah. unless you do more in parallel of course as the 4ah packs are 14S 2P so 2000mah is 4AH if that makes sense....
Thank you for this video. I have a new EGO 56V 2.5AH Battery Pack, bought two months ago with an EGO lawn trimmer. After the trimming was done on the lawn (September 20, 2022), I fully charged it and set it aside. So far, so good. The EGO Battery manual says that it is supposed to go to 30% after a month in storage, but as of November 5 , 2022 (well over a month), it still shows all 5 lines of FULL charge. It appears the BMS is not working to lower the battery pack to 30%. Is this battery defective? I read that at 80% or more charge, Lithium batteries lose 20% per year of capacity. I don't want to lose 20% a year. Just running the Battery Pack on the trimmer to force it down to 30% is NOT what the manual says I am supposed to do. What should I do?
Hi, I do not have any of the newer style packs to say for sure, but yes I thought they would also go into a storage mode after 30 days. Unless it's a reason for the BMS to hold off like the Voltage was not full so it's waiting longer? I am not sure. I will say almost No battery manufacturers do this so it's a good thing to have, but most packs don't. It's a better idea to help the long term life, but does have a trade off. One example of a trade off is using the EGO Nexus power station as a back-up. That means when you need the power station all your packs could be at 30%. So I was wondering if EGO was going to increase the storage time on the redesigned packs for that reason? Maybe 60days? I would give it some more time and if you are sure it has not been used at all and over 60 days and simply sit on the shelf then you can ask EGO since it's under warranty!
I've had this with my battery pack. I went to use it in the winter (stored indoors). And my capacity was a lot lower than full. Unfortunately the battery would not charge to full after this :/. I was in warranty so I was able to get a replacement. If I were you I make sure everything's registered and utilize your warranty if something goes amiss. I tore my old battery down after I got the replacement in. And it turns out one cell went bad. Reads 0.296 volts whereas the rest of the cells read 4.06v. Which is sad :(. Im not really sure I want to find a dead pack on ebay and replace it. As I'm not sure if the BMS is acting up. And the potential of the pack being a fire hazard amidst a repair. I plan on disposing it to my states hazardous disposal locations.
Glad I saw your videos, Looks Like I almost fell into the EGO trap, of Battery short Life. I think Ill hold off buy anything EGO, since the Battery Life is Not very long, If their Battery warranty was 3 years I would consider them
Hi,Sorry for the confusion the warranty is 5 years on power equipment and 3 years on the battery packs. Just did not mean to sound to negative about the battery the faulty transistor on a few packs is the only problem I know of, I really do love the power of the equipment, but hope they improve on the packs.I really like the weed trimmer and blower and I now have a 5.0 ah 16" chainsaw and it is awesome. Thanks for your comment!
As far as battery durability goes, it's better to get the larger battery packs, simply because it's spreading the load (charge/discharge) over a larger number of cells, so each cell isn't working as hard.
Yes you are correct. Several viewers have mentioned the brand and type of cells in the comments. Sanyo UR18650NSX is one mentioned by (Jonathan Ridder). (Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR 18650 wrapped in a paraffin wax/carbon graphite phase change sleeve.
I have a bunch of ego stuff. Happy so far. I just got a 5.0ah battery and it was dead. No lights. Put it on one of my chargers and the charger shows all green. Battery shows red. Now battery flashes red and will not charge. My question is, do you think the batteries can be brought back by direct charging? At least enough to trick the brains into working on the charger? The charge slots on the back of the battery, wondering if I can put a charge on the positive and negative for about 10 minutes. Thoughts? Edit- I decided to apply a charge to the terminals and got the battery to around 52volts. Light went green on battery. However the charger does the same thing showing steady green and nothing. Tried 2 chargers. I’m thinking something else is wrong.
Although you have to be careful, I believe it is fine to use current limited supply. I do recommend taking the pack apart and making sure it's not unbalanced or that some cells alot lower than others. If so you need to charge them individually. In series could be bad if some read low. I am assuming your pack is out of warranty, if not EGO is good about sending replacement!
Thrifty Tool Shed I just got a chainsaw kit with the 5.0 battery. Battery was doa and labeled oct 2018! Ego has always been great - they are sending a replacement. But in the meantime I wanted to see what was going on with this battery. (I’m assuming it sat around for a year and discharged unfortunately). I paralleled a working battery for about 100 seconds and got the bad one to read about 52v. Green light on battery and battery worked on a tool. The charger still won’t allow a charge to it. So I’m thinking the internal circuitry is responsible. Which could be a dead cell. :(
@@ericeric5104 Sounds like it could be a bad cell. If it is just one maybe the others have not overcharged while putting the 56v across it. After buying a few bad packs from ebay over the last couple of years I had some BMS boards I repaired and are good spare and I also was able to get some good cells out of them. Can be a good way to get good spare parts if the price is good enough!
Thrifty Tool Shed I’m gonna wait on opening the case until the new battery arrives. (Not sure if I will have to send this one back or not). If it’s just a cell or two, that’d be great! And not hard to fix. If I get to keep the battery, I’ll get into it for more diagnostics.
I feel like if I had the skills and knowledge then rebuilding my tool batteries might be more worth my while even over dealing with warranties, but especially after the warranties expire. There’s just a lot more for me to learn about battery tech. So you can add in a new cell to the pack without negative effects? I’m thinking along the lines mixing old and new batteries - forgive my ignorance on the subject. I know there has to be a difference here.
I always try to add in close as possible to the cells in pack. If you have time to test capacity of all cells you can get them working well. I also save time by keeping alot of spare cells around from similar packs and usually the same exact match and it easier to keep packs going when one or two cells fail on you. Unfortunately the answer to fixing a pack right is obviously to replace all the cells at the same time, but that is usually not cost effective unless you have plenty around like I mentioned earlier. One way I do this is buying many bad packs and keeping good parts and taking many and getting a few in good operation as well as still having some good tested cells left over and sometimes even at the recycling centers and Home Depot etc. They will allow you to go through and get the packs in there out of the recycle bin and we will save alot of good cells from being recycled before they need to. Really a win-win if you like learning more about and working on things!
good video and good safety and tips on materials. Can you add in detail on the actual battery you replaced - ie looks like sourced from US battery pack so already matched but if no other packs - is it a 2500mah NCR 18650 li ion cell or a Lipo cell and what current rating etc - can I get these online?
I actually still have not had luck finding the specs on the cells. I have only replaced cells with another faulty pack. ie: I purchased several faulty packs and some of the cells were good and some bad, so I combined and one had to be a donor battery! The outer green sleeve on the has the EGO #170377 and the inner red sleeve of the actual cell has no number just a QR code printed on it so no real luck finding data other than the obvious that the 2.5ah pack cells should have a 2500mah rating, I would assume that the 5.0 pack has same cells but also has 14s set in parallel with the first 14s to give combined 5.0 ah. Sorry that's all the information I have. Thanks so much for your comments!
I bet that cell is the one that most often fails in an EGO battery pack, being part of the first parallel pair in the series chain. All the current intended for the entire series chain flows though that first pair, both on charging and discharging. Too bad a "balanced" setup isn't used, as they do in R/C modelling. In the R/C field, each cell in a pack is charged individually to the exact voltage of the other cells .. to alleviate the pressure on the first pair in series. Those batteries are so expensive that honestly I am shocked the chargers and batteries are not designed to balance charge. Lithium batteries are MUCH safer when the individual cells are kept balanced. They'd be much more expensive since all 28 cells would need their own + and - contacts .. but no bloated cells pretty much ever.
Hi, I do believe the BMS board does balance very well typically. Each of the 14 cell groups are monitored and go to its own discharge transistor on the BMS for at least some percent of unbalance. I am not sure what percentage that is. I really think it is a problem only when the cell capacity is off enough to already be bad from my experience. I will try to rebalance, but after a couple cycles it's back that way again. Testing individual cells show the large capacity difference between the cells in the pack which will never stay balanced in that manor. Thanks for your comment!
I love my Ego tools and use them alot but those batteries seemed to be timed to fail every 2 years. I called my local batteries plus store to see if they could open up the case and replace the dead batteries for less than the $150 price tag of the replacement batteries. I have a garage full of dead batteries now. They told me that they don't replace the lithium ion batteries die to fire hazzards. I am enjoying this video but scared to try it myself. Do you want to refurbish my dead batteries? :-) I have plenty of them.
I am very surprised that batteries+ does not do that. I wish I could help, but I get asked this so often that I could never keep up, especially with a full time job+ and the time I put in this channel is tremendous. I try to share what I learned to hopefully help someone else. I actually have a couple of my own waiting to be repaired right now.
To me they look like 21700 batteries could be 20700 not to mention there are many many different batteries with different mah like 18650 batteries come in anywhere from 2000mah to 3600mah. Also vape mods range in battery sizes as well not just 18650s
These are Li-ion 18650 2500mah and every EGO pack I have ever worked on has the 18650 physical size cells. I do not know what is in the newer 10ah pack though. It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have..... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
When you started talking about balanced cells, I had a hard time wrapping my mind around the issue. For some reason, in my mind, I see all the cells attached Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative, thus allowing all the cells to balance themselves overnight as they sit, correct? Or am I missing something obvious? Or is it 2 sets of 28v packs in series to make 56v? I guess that having them in series would make that balancing important... I think I'm beginning to see...
Yes the cells are 14S or all 14 in series therefore one bad cell or low cell can really get the pack out of wack. But to your point the higher capacity packs such as 5.0ah or 7.5ah do have 2 or more in parallel and those pair are in series with 14 other set to make up the 56V and twice the capacity! Sometimes refered to as 2P 14S. Hope it helps!
The fuse on my 56v 5ah battery fried so I wired in an external fuse. The PCB is fine as I get a green light, it fully charges, but when I run it in the snowblower, it only goes about 2 seconds and quits with orange flashing on the battery. Could that be because it’s not fused at the right amperage? I soldered in a 10 gage fuse holder. I tried a 40 amp and a 15 amp with same results. Any ideas?
Usually blinking orange is a temperature issue. I have one video on a similar issue and had a loose connection in the middle temp. sensing board of the pack. It could be other issues as well though. These packs have several (NTC) temperature sensors in them.
Nice videos Thrifty Tool Shed! I recently acquired an Ego nexus inverter that didn’t come with a battery. I have the guts from an Ego battery that I dismantled a while back. I am attempting to re-assemble it with a fresh set of cells, but I want to be sure that I connect the bms leads to the correct cells. Can someone tell me exactly which color wire goes to the correct side of which cell? I’m really hoping I can get this pack operating like it’s supposed to so I can use my new nexus inverter! Thanks!
You would probably need to get the schematic or data sheet of the bms I hope you can find it the color wires are balance wires the 2.5 ah should be a 14s1p configuration the 5 ah 14s2p and 7.5 ah 14s3p. s meaning series and p meaning parallel. 3 cells in series 4 of the packs of 3 in parallel for a 12v battery 5 ah assume each single cell is 2.5 ah. 3 cells in series and 2 packs of those 3 cells in parallel. If you need any insight on what I said reach out to me.
i have a 7.5ah that i, for some stupid reason, ripped the sensor board off the top of one of the pack of batteries. it also has a bad bms as well. if i were to donate it could you make a video of the repair for us?
Those are clearly Sanyo cells either UR18650NSX or UR18650Y, both having the yellow ring at the top. I’m betting they’re the NSX’s since these are 20A high drain cells 2600mAh capacity. While the Y’s are only 4A cells. Especially with them powering eGo devices, thats your answer right there!
Sorry, am I the only one who doesn't know how you'd have equalized the cells after replacing one or more? Please comment. Also, are the black plastic sleeves just there as telltales - so it's easy to spot which cell/s overheated at some point, and proceed with replacing them?
The pack I came across is probably a lost cause - multiple cells have sleeves that feel soft like modeling clay, and not ONE of them looks like it's got well-defined edges, at least seen through the shrink-wrap, so I'm thinking the whole thing got into meltdown range.
Well the sleeves are there to help a little if they do get to high temperature by using the latent heat absorption to its advantage I believe. The phase change should help with that in theory. It does also let you know that some cells have gotten hotter than others as well. The best way to tell if a cell is really bad is how balanced the cells are. I usually balance mine by unplugging the BMS board and taking time to charge up each cell (group) to the same charge level as the highest charged group of cells. If it's a lot of cells out of balance then a cell balancing board is worth the effort. I just use my bench PS with current limited if it's just a couple groups out of balance. Typically if they are out of balanced baldly or even much below the 2.5V minimum voltage threshold they are at least lost capacity somewhat. I discuss a little about this in my video called Lithium battery FAQ#1.
How often are your EGO cells failing? How do you know? Is it lost capacity or lost max voltage? Any other battery packs you recommend (greenworks, or ...)?
I have actually only lost cells on the one EGO pack I own and it was due to the BMS board failure as shown in the repair video. The cell would not have failed if not for the shorted transistor in the BMS. It pulled the pack down below safe level for the 18650 cells. I have only had a failure on the one pack out of 5 packs that I own. I have had them for about 2 years. I still love my EGO stuff, but I hope they take care of the battery BMS issues and put a fuel gauge on the future designs. I do not have any Green works etc. to say one way or the other. I do however own alot of Milwaukee tools. I have had no issues with any 18v Milwaukee tools or packs and I have owned them for a out 3 years. Hope it helps, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for responding! Very helpful info. I guess with the 3 year warranty you're covered, apart from some shipping and waiting hassles. Checkout the greenworks website. It's hard, because I want to pick one Great brand and stick to their tools and battery packs, instead of doubling up on everything. Great videos, keep it up...
Rumor has it Greenworks uses Panasonic batteries. But no arc technology. Can't really go wrong with either. Ryobi's 40v for their lawnmowers works, but they are overworked and get way too hot, and won't last as long.
I really enjoy your videos on Ego battery repairs and have learned a lot from them. I have repaired one 2.5AH battery with bad Q12 in it and also had another with a bad Q12 and three bad battery cells. I got the exact replacement Samsung cells and got everything back together. I balanced all the cells as you have mentioned in other videos too. When I run the battery in a blower it will run for a few minutes and then the red light flashes. The three cells I replaced did not have the covering or sleeves on them like the originals. I think because of that the board is shutting it down for overheating. Have you every tried to replace with other batteries or have you always used the EGO cells from other batteries? I would be interested if you tried to use other replacement batteries and see if you have the same results. I will also try to get three other cells from a battery off E-Bay and see if I can get the battery back operational. Just would love to know if you can only use the EGO batteries and know that the others will not work. The others charge up fine and balance out fine, it is that they just won't work in the EGO chargers for some reason and would like to know why and what that is for the sleeves to be able to use any battery to repair as long as it was the same model. You can also reach me at jkmoth@aol.com. Name is John.
Hi John, I have only replaced mine with the like cells from spare part packs that the cells test great capacity on. So I do not know for sure, however, I would not have thought that the sleeved would matter unless almost to a overheat state. They are a phase change sleeve and it would take alot of latent energy to transform phase. So I would not think a few minutes if running would cause that. If possible I would load the pack on the bench opened up and see if you catch a particular cell dropping off after the few minutes of run time. It could be another cell (or cells) giving capacity issues and it is hard to catch. Another thing is it could be a bad connection to the BMS and it thinks one of the cells is dropping off. I had a similar issue on a 4ah pack repair video lately and I also mentioned on there that the red led almost seems to flash a code of pulses for which cell number is indicating faulty. I am a long ways from totally figuring that part out, but it is interesting... Great job on your packs and thanks for your kind comment. Hope it helps and best of luck to ya!
Ever seen one where all the cells are swollen? I’ve got one of the previous generation 2.5Ah ones and it charges ok but runs out very quickly. Pulled it apart and all 14 cells look barrel shaped. Probably not worth repairing?
All the 2.5ah have the phase sleeves and so stick out. If it's more rounded as I showed in a couple of videos then they did get hot at some point. I would check the voltage on each cell and see how they all measure and go from there. If all cells read low voltage the pack is most likely beyond economical repair unless you have cells around and tested as I mentioned in the video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1"
I don’t know if you are monitoring your older posts but a neighbor has a 2.5 that is no longer charging. Red light of death. When I cut the sleeve off the a couple of the Samsung 18650 r25 batteries, there’s moister inside the sleeve and the insulation is wet. Have you ever seen this before? Any recommendations? 4:42 thanks.
I have seen this mostly in other packs with 18650 cells. I have not seen as many EGO packs with this issue. Typically the 18650 cells have overheated and the electrolyte is leaking from the cells. Many times the phase change wax sleeves will show signs of being melted as the edges of the sleeves will be rounded and tapered rather than square and straight as they are before overheating.
@@ThriftyToolShed would you recommend replacing all the cells then? What’s really interesting is all the cells are showing the same charge, 3.16v. Anyway, thanks for the fast response!
@@ThriftyToolShed just took apart a 2.5Ah pack. It had a bad Q12. Two cells tested and charged fine, but had the black ooze coming out of the ends. Removed the green outer wrap and the black phase change material was like toothpaste. Cleaned it all off and the battery was not leaking electrolyte. Do you think the material wrapping the battery may be a safety fire retardant? Also fyi, it was hard to read, but the cell had a faint lettering for Sanyo L, UR18650 NSX u41A. Thanks for teaching me how to repair it.
@@thebood4553 I believe the phase change material is mostly to help in overheating situations to keep the cells from damage. It is using latent heat to help draw the inner heat from the cells and seems like a really cool idea. I don't know how well it works really though and I would think the cells should work fine without it in most cases. The 3P packs actually don't use the sleeves from what I have seen. I see it as more of a protection once it goes hotter than a normal use, but no other brand packs that I know of use it. It is just an extra layer to protect the cell from possible over heat. We have discussed the types of cells over the years in some of the video discussions as well. In the past... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite. Awesome job repairing the pack!
Sometimes I use a bench top supply set to CC and CV. Most of the time I use a charger/capacity tester with the individual cells as shown in my video "Lithium Battery FAQ#1".
Thanks for the excellent video. Do you know if it's possible to replace all the cells with a different type? For example, Samsung 30Q which will give a similar discharge rate but more capacity.
I have not done it, but I believe it would be fine. I have done this same thing with other brand packs in the past with success. Best of luck! Thanks for your comment!
I have mentioned in several repair videos that I have bought some bad packs from eBay over the years and some even found in recycle bins etc. I share some info on the FAQ video as well. ua-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/v-deo.html
@ThriftyToolShed yeah, that's the first sentence in my first comment! I must have missed that information! That is why I posted a comment. I was hoping a viewer or someone would let me know so I would not have to rewatch! thanks.
@zaz4667 I was referring to the FAQ video I shared a link of. I did not know if you seen it at the bottom of my comment. I seen your comment and assumed you were talking about the video you commented on. Since it's probably 5 years old I can't remember if I mentioned it in that one or not, but I absolutely did a video to answer questions later. In my first reply to you!
I do like spot welding but not on rebuilds when the surfaces are hard to get flush for spot welding. Quick and cool fast soldering works best for me on old tested good cell if you are safe with it which is why I shared it.
How many and what type of 18650 comes with stock battery of ego 56v , means either they are sony sanyo or samsung 18650, more simply either they are sony vtc, samsung inr or else? Plz i need to know before buying that pack, plz tell me specification of 18650 used in that pack along with its mAh and company too
Well the 2.5ah will have the 14 of the 2500mah cells of course. The 5ah should have 28 of the similar cells and the 7.5ah I would think has 43 of them since it is a 14S 3P pack. As far as the name of manufacturer, I have not found it in mine and they may not all be the same. They seem special made for Chervon for the Ego packs and wrapped in the phase change sleeve. A couple of viewers have commented about the packs in there's.... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
@@ThriftyToolShed i was about to buy fully working pack of 2.0ah with all lights working for 11$ per pack, but if cells dont have ratings printed on them it would be difficult to sell those cells for me. Thanks alot for giving me information.
I had bought several bad or non working packs of eBay years ago and fixed most of them and a couple I just parted out the cells that were in like new condition and capacity. I just use a CC or constant current supply to charge up individual cells to the same voltage charge level as the pack I am repairing. Several viewers have commented about the cells they believe the packs they have in them... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
I was thinking of using my ebike battery (14s 6p, 52v) in a back pack to power an ego leaf blower which is yet to be bought. Would this work? Do you know if there is some special requirement to make the ego tools accept a battery. I know on some tools, there is a resistor that must be wired to one of the secondary terminals. I was hoping you might know. Thanks.
The pack has communication to the tool so the D-terminal is the main concern. Without the D-terminal the tool will run approximately 10 secs and shutdown. I have a video called "What is the D-terminal?" where I discuss what little bit I have learned about it so far. I do not know of any work around with the EGO BMS at this time.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks. I will look at that video. I watched a video called 'EGO Battery Vs EGO Generic Battery' so it appears there are clones, but unless the D-terminal protocol is trivial, this would be beyond my current capability. Too bad.
I have 2 videos looking at the cheaper clone EGO 56V batteries and that was the only reason I actually bought the first one to test (5AH). I wanted to see how they made the BMS work. Actually they copied the BMS board almost component to component and apparently copied the microcontroller program. So I was at least impressed that they made it work. The 2nd video was on a 6AH that the company sent me to have another look at it.
The pack does separate into halves easily, however to get to the middle of the pack is not so easy. You will most likely have to pop aloose all the spot weld joints on at least one side and then it usually will pop out once you pop the cell aloose from the opposite side!
I'm curious if those are LG or Samsung cells. Can you say their dimensions are very close to a 18650 or a 21700 cell? If it's a 18650 cell, my best bet is the LG 2500mah high drain cells. My only doubt is color of the spacer between the +\- being yellow in this video and actual cell's is white
They are 18650 and yes should be 2500mah for sure. Some viewers have commented about the cells they seen in there's... I found no info on mine... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
I have the 2.5Ah battery. It's 5 years old but infrequently used. I used it three weeks ago and stopped using the tool before the battery ran out. I went to charge it today and it won't charge. The pack voltage is only reading 6V. It's beyond repair, cost-wise, is that correct? Thanks for the videos.
Well most likely it is at the minimum lost capacity of some cells. All you can really do is use a CC CV power supply to slowly bring up the charge level and see how much the cells may be damaged or if it will charge up much at all. You could get lucky and get some capacity back from it. Most likely it will need all cells replaced. One other option is to sell it on eBay. These packs will still bring money for parts on eBay.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the response. I have a 30V/4A power supply. Do you think it's possible to use that to bring up the voltage of the pack to a level where the EGO charger can take over and bring it to a full charge? Do you know the minimum voltage the charger is looking for?
@@PapaDikpill It would be a good start to see how well the pack responds, but no not enough to pick up for EGO charger. That is why I shared the video of the DROK DC-DC Buck converter. It can use another EGO pack to safely bump up the charge in the bad one with current control. You can also use a 0-60V PS.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for all the help. I'll take a look at your buck converter video. I just ordered a 4Ah battery with the fuel gauge for $140, which seems like a pretty good price. I may use that to see if I can recover the bad one. Thanks again.
They are to take advantage of latent heat. So the energy it takes for a material to change phases is great so theoretically it will absorb a lot of heat to phase change from solid to liquid. I guess it's similar to water becoming steam and the latent heat. I don't know how effective it is, but it's a cool idea..
Been a bit... broke down my defective 5.0ah battery and found a defective cluster. On the bigger batteries they are grouped in 3 or 4 cells. Where did you get the other ego cells? Rather than buy the same type, I’m leaning towards finding another defective battery to keep things the same. By the way... I tried force charging the battery by applying a power source directly to the battery. Got the pack up to 52 volts max. That’s how I found the 3 bad cells. Not charging at all. I’m gonna get after it, but I’m looking for a junk ego battery. eBay?
That is exactly what I did, buy some bad packs on eBay for spare cells. If you are lucky check with the Home Depot recycle bin and some times you will find a EGO pack in it! That idea came from a viewer in the comments and I thought Home Depot would not allow it, but they actually never care, the manager looks at you a little weird and says OK!👍
None of my packs have had this sleeve melting. Just the bad packs I ordered back then off eBay for spare parts! So unsure of what they were exposed to honestly. Could have been rare faulty pack, could have been abused? I am not sure...
I have a video repairing the quick charger, I have not had issues with the base model charger yet. Just a thought, have you tried more than one battery pack just just to make sure it's not something with the pack giving it weird issues?
Do you know if their batteries talk to their tools, specifically the Nexus generator? I have a few 52V (14s) ebike batteries I'd like to use with it, so I'm trying to figure out a way to hook them up to the generator. If the generator needs an Ego battery, I was thinking maybe I could wire the ebike battery in parallel with the Ego battery.
I have not seen the Nexus yet. I am very interested in it however. So in short I know little about it. The 56V packs do have a third connection back to the tools, I am not sure if it is just a ntc feedback for temperature or if it is more than that.
It appears to communicate with the battery. I just tried to apply power to the contacts of the Nexus, and the display lit up when I pressed the power button, but then it went off. I'll try paralleling with an Ego battery next.
I have just tried to parallel my 52V bike battery with the Ego battery, and it worked! The Ego batteries are actually 52V (14 cells in series). The next step is to open up the Ego unit so that I can hardwire an XT90-S connector to it so that I can plug my battery directly into it. When the Ego is operating, all batteries are connected in parallel, so it doesn't matter what capacity battery you attach to each port. They all drain equally.
What would happen if the 2500mah batteries were changed out too 3500mah would bms still work ? Higher amp battery? The phase change material do you know where it can be purchased?
I don't see why it would not work. It is simply reading voltage accross the cells even in the 5ah or 7.5ah pack it is 2 cells or 3 cells in parallel and it works fine. I do believe the BMS board microcontroller is programmed differently for the 2.5ah, 5ah and 7.5ah packs because they have different thermistor feedback and I believe they also let the pack know what capacity is on some tools through the D-terminal. I still don't see major difference other than that! The heat sleeves I have not come accross yet, but after buying some bad packs off of eBay and repaired a bunch of them, I ended up with some with bad cells and just parted it out after load testing the spare cells and recycling the bad cells I will keep the sleeve and the tested good cells. It may be hard to find the sleeves since they are so delicate. They will crumble. I would think we may have to eventually make our own it seems like mostly paraffin wax with a graphite mixed in?
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks my only worry is the whole balance charging thing, search of UA-cam for absolute noob on subject don't exist all the 1p 3p etc confuses hell out of me I've got the tools, charger, analyser, kweld spot welder. Isdt 8 balancer How to get em all too work arghh , just ordered drok buck converter, if you ever get time " Battery Cells for Beginners " make great video! Thanks again for the work you do on your videos they are enjoying to watch Wayne
Thanks for your comment. I may definitely consider a video on the cells. The 14S is just referring to the 14 cells in series so 4v×14= 56V. Then the 2P or 3P is the cells in parallel so 2p just means 2 of the 4v cells in parallel which doubles the capacity so 2P or 2 2500ma cells in parallel gives the 5000ma or 5.0AH pack because those have 28 cells which is 14 of those 2P in series. So of course the 3P is just 3 cells in parallel giving 7.5AH and uses a total of 42 cells Hope this clears up a little? Best of luck to ya!
Stupid question, how do I test my ego battery. I used a cheap voltmeter from harbor freight, I hooked it up to the positive and negative terminals and sparks flew. (Good thing it was a free voltmeter).
Well, you just measure the terminals marked + and - with a meter set to read DC volts. Make sure the leads are in the correct jack for measurement of Voltage. If you have the lead in the current or Amps jack it will be a dead short basically. If a cheaper meter is on Ohms or resistance measurement it may do a similar thing if you put it accross 56V.
Thrifty Tool Shed thanks! I tested mine, it’s showing 46 volts on a 5ah battery. I’ve tried to charge it and it goes from green to either blinking red or it will show that it’s 100% charged. I can plug it into my weed whacked or the mower and it will run for a few seconds then the light will go back to blinking red. Any ideas of what I need to replace?
Usually blinking red is a sign of a pair of cells in the 5ah that is reading low. Could sometimes be a bad connection as I showed in one of my last 4ah repairs. Most of the time it is a set of cells reading low in the pack. Measuring accross the 14 different sets you will most likely find a set or more than one set reading low. For example if you are reading 46V on pack that is average 3.3V or so accross each 14 sets. You may find some cell pairs less or even much less than that. The pack should normally stay pretty balanced accross all 14 but when they have some cells going bad they can get bad out of balance and some cells are close to 4.2V and the pack will not allow any further charging at the same time some cells could be reading only 3.0V and as soon as they drop to 2.7V the pack cuts out and blinks red. Hope it helps! Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed If my battery is blinking red and won't charge due to a few low cells, but I can slowly drain it using the headlights on my mower, would the high cells eventually reach equilibrium with the low cells, allowing the pack to charge again? (I can sometimes get the battery to work on my blower for a few seconds... is this a good way to repeatedly drain the battery to get the cells back to similar voltages?)
Well if it is out of balance it can't make a big difference in the cells. In other words the BMS is designed to keep the cells balanced and monitor them, but the cells have to all be in good shape. If some cells start losing capacity and are basically mismatched now that is a problem. It can't automatically correct that. You would have to individually test and charge each cell, but most likely some of the cells are lower in capacity now and may pull down lower again. All you can do is test and try though. Best of luck to ya!
I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells. I have had great luck using 18650batteeystore.com in the past. It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have..... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite. I get asked this over and over I have a video discussing some of this. ua-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/v-deo.html
Hi do you think the ego 56v 2ah. Battery gauge cap is same as ego 56v 10ah gauge.?i have 10ah ego 56v and have shorted one of 3 connectors so gauge don’t work.battery ok. But can’t charge with ego charger,can charge to 54 v with ebike charger,I bought ego 56v 2ah hope to swap over battery gauge Being careful with connectors 😀
I don't have one to say for sure, but I doubt it. I know on the older boards the 2.5ah and the 5ah are not the same. They are similar but have different connectors. I am talking about the original style board. I have not yet taken apart a new style pack with the 5 segment fuel gauge.
We have several comments about this here. I mentioned that I use the spare cells from bad packs I ordered and tested and kept the good. It has been other comments from viewers such as ... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite. You will need 2500mA cells for the 5aH. 2p 14S pack
Hi, I try to share what I have learned with the community and since I have a full-time job as Industrial Reliability Technician I don't have time to do alot of repairs. Hopefully with what I have time to share in several of the videos it will prove helpful. Shipping would be so expensive also. I do hope you can find someone more local to you that can help you out sir. Thanks for watching and Thanks your comment!
I do believe so, I know the 2.5 and 5.0 are. It only make sense that the 7.5 is also the same just 3P. The only difference that I know of in the EGO packs right now are the older 2.0 and the 4.0 probably have the same 2000mah cells and the new 10ah pack. Wow! I guess it is 5000mah cells in 2p configuration? I guess it's that or 3500 cells in 3P?
@@ThriftyToolShed hello again i just got my 1st 2.5ah non working pack, took it apart and all the cells on bank closest to wiring /board are bad except for one. so 5 are balanced at about .72 tu.67 one is at -.02. I know you cant tell me what is wrong lol, but what should i check or do next? I basically am waiting to get a good price on non working 5.0ah on ebay and combine this one to have a working 5ah battery. Im trying to learn. i also just ordered the drok power source to test/charge cells. Not here yet though. thanks for all your knowledge ...ps what type of solder(percentage rating) do you use to connect cells when replacing
The cells may be to the point of no return. If you are careful, you can slowly apply a charge (with the Drok as you mentioned) to see if they will revive. Chances are several are bad and maybe some will charge up with not much capacity left, and maybe a few will charge up and have some capacity left in them? I know it's a gamble, I just received a 4ah with all bad cells, the pack had severe water damage. Another 4ah, someone had pulled all the wires out of the BMS connectors and just put the cover back on? It actually arced when I took the cover off⚡, lol... As far as solder, I think you are asking solder type? I use both lead free and the leaded, usually around 60/40 blend. I like the leaded, it flows better to me. To me the most important thing is prep. I clean and scuff the surfaces then apply rosin flux and then use high wattage iron. The 150-200 watt iron is the best to me because it heat the concentrated area up fast then stick the solder and cool fast. I will use spot welder at times but as long as you are careful and do not heat up cell much, solder to me is fine. Be careful with the positive side especially, making sure you don't come accross the negative case at all. I always recommend the have cells discharged down to cut off point before soldiering just for safety, lots of stored energy for sure, Be careful and best of luck to ya!
I cannot do this lol,it's too much of tactics for me so if my batteries ever go bad i can sell you it for parts what do you say? I got an ebay account,,,great video though.
I simply make sure all cells are very close to same charge level. One easy way is just use a bench power supply set at 1A current limit to charge each cell up to the level the highest cell is at in the pack. You can just fully charge them all to 4.2Volts it will just take alot of time.
We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have..... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
I have a 5.0 Ah pack, which has the same cells you have in this video, but arranged in 14 paralleled pairs. One pair reads 0.59v each, all others are @ 3.5v. Call the bad pair "pair" 14. One of the pair looked like it leaked or corroded. I wasnt able to manually jump-charge eithre of them. Since they are arranged in pairs in this pack, can I get away with splitting a good pair, say "pair 13" and using just 1 cell for each of the "pair locations" 13 & 14? Meaning not paralleled, just one cell for those two locations? I realize those single celled locations will discharge (and charge) quicker than the paralleled pairs and cause the pack to call for a charge sooner, but is this doable until I can get some replacement cells? Or is the BMS smarter than that?
I would think it might be an issue on the charge and discharge cycle. The BMS will know the cells are charging at twice the rate as well. So even to get by using it as a 2.5ah pack, I would think chances are you will have to manually charge the cells up. (the charger most likely will be faulting out) Just my thoughts, I haven't tried it.
@@ThriftyToolShed Wow, thanks for the quick response! I was also considering removing 1/2 of each pair to downgrade the pack to a 2.5ah, but again, maybe the BMS won't allow? I'm getting a fast blinking red light, not sure if 2 new cells will resolve. Worth a try though. If nothing else, I guess I can salvage the 12 working cells and maybe keep to repair a used or refurbished 5.0.
@@maorienteg Yes I understand salvaging the cells for sure, I have done that on one and its helped repair several I have now. I am almost sure the BMS board is the same, but it could be additional wires going to the board through the small connectors on the 5.0 VS 2.5. Other than that, it seems plausible! I do have a video of the wiring placement for the 2.5 pack because a viewer needed it to put his back together and it might help watching it to compare with your 5.0 without having to disassemble another pack. Seems like the viewer did mention his 5.0 pack had additional wires populated in the connector to the bms board....
@@ThriftyToolShed Cool, ty. FWIW I went ahead and tried it with 1 cell each in "pair positions" 13 and 14. I got about a 3.5v incremental increase at each test point on the BMS pcb. It started to charge for about 5 seconds but then back to the blinking red lights. Bummer. I'm going to purchase 2 cells and see if I can bring this one back to life. Hoping its just the cells and not something else too. I also ordered a refurbed pack as a backup plan. This has been fun! Thanks again for all the vids and experience regarding.
Hi,. I have a dead 56v battery.. the indicator lights up green, however no voltage when I test it. I took it apart and all of the cells appear to be fine. It look like the surface mount fuse on the small battery connection board by the terminals is blown. When I short out the fuse I have voltage at the terminals again. Is it possible that my problem is the fuse? if so what do I need to order, and how do I get it off of the board??
michael charach , That could be, I had one similar that had a bad connection instead that I mentioned in my repair update video. I was able to fix mine because the fuse was ok just bad connection to the solder pads. I have never seen a fuse like it before. You could possibly have more luck finding a flat Pak style fuse, but I have not had to yet. That's one great thing about buying some bad batteries from eBay etc. You end up with donor parts from some to fix others also!
you have a blown fuse inside of the battery. i have created a solder bridge in one of mine. it was hard to get the solder to stick, but so far so good. just use a soldering iron and basically create a connection using a solder pool. not the best idea but it does work.. if you have a warranty still, call ego customer service. they will fix it for you for free.
My pack is a March 2018 production date. ALL my batteries Don't have the ridge showing. All are producing except battery # 10. So my first question is-Have you ever seen all the batteries WITHOUT the ridges? Can it be a different style of battery/pack? What color wires are on cell # 10? Have you found a new replacement substitute for buying just one cell?
When you say ridges is there no sleeve at all or just that the sleeves have melted or transitioned at some point and it rounded instead of sharp edges? I have not had a pack that new to say for sure but all EGO packs I have worked on in the past have absolutely had sleeves. I have a BMS wiring video for the 2.5ah that may have the wire colors the same as the one you have. I did this video for a viewer asking for help putting one back together, hope it helps. As far as the cells go. I have only used spare cells that I have tested good from non-working packs I have bought and acquired. Some viewers have posted the cells they think the packs have. (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
@@ThriftyToolShed I have not taking out the cells from the housing yet. I just noticed that none of my cells have the ridge that your pack shows so I was hoping that maybe the sleeves on mine are longer so no ridge is visible. I'm going to have to get brave and remove one cell to see if the sleeve is longer or melted. So if they are swollen and still producing voltage are they safe to use? Could one bad battery cause the rest of the cells to over charge? Thanks for the video reference and super quick response..I love when I find a true master repair person!!! Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks for the compliment. I am not a master repair person, but we are all learning it together! I really hate seeing things have to be thrown out because they quit working. Consumer electronics are so bad about not having good information to make them repairable. I have seen packs with the phase change sleeve material that has changed states or melted. I have always thought it is common at higher temperature to activate the sleeves to use the latent heat advantages for heat absorbstion. I have noticed though that most packs I work on that the bad cells are usually the ones with melted sleeves and the good or best cells have not changed. I don't think it hurts that the sleeve has activated nessecerily because it's supposed to keep damage from occuring to the cell, but on the other hand, cells that have gone too far and bad are also definitely going to have the sleeve melted. If that make sense? I am still learning these as well, that's how it seems to me so far...
I did check out the video on the 2.5 pack BMS but it states 6 batteries on the low side and the rest on the high side. I have 1-7 on the low side and 8-14 on the high side so I'm hoping that The Blue Wire on the high side in your video is still matches to battery # 10 on mine.
Sorry, I actually do not have one so I am not sure. I am pretty sure it is double the amount that is in the 2.0. I would think 28 cells. Like most batteries it has a basic or smaller pack of 14s X 2ah and the double capacity 4ah should have another 14s cells parallel accross the 1st 14 series cells.
They are 18650 cells. It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have..... (Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
It's cheaper to just sell the tool used and buy a new one with a new battery and charger. That's why so many of the tools up for sale. If EGO would stop price gouging.
When is someone going to start a little business repairing these things? Buy old ones off of e-bay and sell reconditioned ones. Is it not cost effective?
For me personally it's just time involved and the shipping cost. I enjoy fixing things and sharing what I learned to help someone else possibly, but would be easier if you lived in a area where people could just drop items off to you to repair, that way you would not have shipping cost and time?
They are Samsung INR18650 wrapped in a layer of paraffin wax/carbon graphite. It cools the battery utilizing phase change. I want to use my ego charger to charge other 14s batteries, I wonder what the function of the T & D terminals are and if I could use it with a foreign BMS. Not likely I suppose.
Yes, I would like to figure that out also. Usually the T terminal is for the NTC feedback monitoring the battery temp. but I have not had to get into the charger repair yet though.
I also suspected The T was thermistor, or temp. It won't charge a hot battery, and there is a cooling phase after the charge is complete. I have cycled the battery early during this cool down and it didn't power the fan back on so I think it is just on a timer. Pulling the T from the BMS is possible providing the range is correct, or it's fooled. What about the D though. A data link from chip to chip? What if I just plugged the EGO in and siphoned off the 58v with a jumper into my 14s e-bike battery I just built. I know I'm cheap but I didn't get a charger because I'm like this thing is charging 52v 14s packs right here. Plus I can just use my bench supply and keep an eye on the BMS.
Correct, if you watch the previous video you learn that because of that great warranty I was sent a replacement and allowed to "recycle" the faulty one. So it was a great reason to repair this one and get some more use out if it.
@@garyenwards1608 Yes, the receipt is required. If you register the product when you buy it you are good. You have to take a picture of your receipt when you register.
Ego battery is a scam. All of my 4 packs died the same day. All on 4 different chargers. Puzzled me a while. I find out that the TI battery management chips inside the pack not making charge after certain usage which is roughly about when the warranty running out. Almost $1000 worth of batteries are PoS now. PLEASE DON'T buy EGO
really? i have mine for 5 years and it just died yesterday. I own the blower and weeder and they all work GREAT! Im here to see if I can repair them as to paying 200.00 for new batteries
I love mine, Ive had my egos, Mower, blower and weeder for 5 years and the mower battery just failed yesterday. I say BUY the EGO and save 1400.00 on gas in a 5 year period. If I do buy a new 200.00 battery I still save 1200.00 over gas
I do have cell balancing boards I will use at times. Most of the time I use my bench PS set for CV and CC and balance all cells. If they are all out and individual as spare cells from donor packs I will test as mentioned in my Lithium battery FAQ#1 video and match cells as close as possible with the OPUS tester.
Anyone who uses bad language in my comments will be deleted. Don't waste your time. We can very easily express ourselves completely without the need of that.
What tool did you use to remove the screws on the battery pack? Thank you! Great video!
@@mustachgloria6445
T15 security bit
I have links to these in the video descriptions usually, people have ask about the set alot.
The cells in the battery are sanyo cells. The battery model number and date codes are etched in the red wrapper on the cell. In the case of the cells in the ego batteries you will have to remove the black sleeves to see the etched numbers on the cells. Just hold the at an angle in the light and turn them till you see the numbers the sanyo cells start with 2 letters and end in 1 or 2 letters. Tin the case of the batteries you have with the yellow insulator ring the etched number should be ur18650v..
Thanks for sharing. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
thank you
I accidently found a quickway to solder. If you use bevel tip and apply a little bit of tip tinning solder first on the bare steel then soldering will be a breeze. That's what i ended up doing when soldering those 10 awg bare wire to the cells' strip. That was very quick and didn't overheat plastic underneath. Thanks for the teachings.... helped me out.
That is how I always prep pads, like on this newer video of connector replacement. Good Flux is a life saver as well. Thanks for sharing! ua-cam.com/video/85KmNgENFEc/v-deo.html
Excellent. Thank you. Finally a video that clearly shows the phase change material
Thomas James , Very welcome and Thank You for your comment.
While I don't have confidence in sauntering batteries. You gave me the idea on a solution and much respect for the time you've put in
Yes sir, nothing at all wrong with spot welding, but I have just had better luck with replaced cells(ones I recycle/repurpose) because the surfaces are usually hard to get back making great contact without solder.
Thanks for your comment!
your patience is very commendable. I don’t have the time to repair my Ego batteries. I like the tools, but the batteries have been a disappointment. My, even new batteries act strange, and after a full charge, may flash red for no reason. 5ah battery , sitting on the shelf, sometimes heats up the lights turn red. And, I am not rough on my tools; they are treated with kid gloves. These batteries cost more than my first car, and are way too expensive to behave so badly. Will be scraping Ego tools and go with Lowe’s Kobalt. Less cost for competitive performance. Fed up with expensive equipment that doesn’t operate correctly.
Thanks for your comment. Just wanted to mention in case you did not know, these bring good money on eBay etc. even in non-working condition. I know because all my videos except my very first battery repair was not my original purchase so I bought non-working items from eBay to learn and share more about. I was surprised at what people were bidding to get these items. I do know Kobalt packs give issues a good bit also as I have worked on several for friends. My EGO stuff has been really good so far except that first video of the battery failure which EGO made good under warranty. I have the mower, 2 string trimmer, 2 blowers, 2 chainsaws, pole saw, edger, hedge trimmers. Hate your EGO stuff has not held up well. Best of luck to ya!
Thank you for your vid. That's a ton of work and know how. I wish EGO would make these packs so we could EASILY replace the individual cells like replacing flash light cells.
Pretty much most batterys will be spot welded
That would be great, although the cells would have to be secured better than replaceable ones. Maybe if they had positive locking terminals, like a nine volt battery.
@@orangecookie3132 I know. Too bad.
😮you might try using some fine sandpaper on the terminal strips, the solder might stick better
I do sometimes as I have shown on the cell ends if needed. Typically I have not had any issues with solder sticking to the strips myself. I use flux to help though. I also almost always spot weld when possible now that some good spot weld boards are so cheap and work really well.
Thanks for the videos. I have some older EGO products, NO experience with electronics and no repair facilities near me so I will be using your videos alot. Thanks again
When you recycle your cells, rip the tabs off the bad cells, but keep them welded to the good cells. Your recycled cells will then have tabs that can be soldered to directly. Then just solder tab to tab into the pack. This way avoids soldering directly on the cell, and the the heat that would pass into the cell.
I repaired my an ebike battery with this method, when the last cell group failed.
It worked great. I soldered a heavy copper wire in parallel to each tab, then in serial to the rest of the battery. No cell was soldered directly.
Yes, that is a good method. Soldering directly is not even recommended of course. I would rather spot weld when possible. I have soldered directly without issues hundreds of times, but you have to do as stated. Keep it cool and use a high wattage Iron so it's super fast. The whole reason for the showing soldering in a few videos was to discuss doing it quickly and keeping it cool since many on UA-cam show it incorrectly. I have many videos discussing I would rather spot weld if possible. The first few repairs years ago I did like you mentioned here just leaving the tabs on. I had some issues with that as well early on since I was not using high enough wattage iron. Thanks for sharing.
@@ThriftyToolShed Good to know you've tried this. I've looked at some less expensive ways of spot welding, but they seemed a bit dicey. I've yet to have the need to justify spending the money for one. Thanks.
@Eidetic Goone
I am very impressed with some cheaper units. Some are not so good for sure. The BIFRC (high current version) and 3GOA has been a really good one for the price and you just add your own battery pack. I have been spot welding much more than any other method since a few of these low costs ones work well.
www.amazon.com/dp/B0B14VQ31N/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_apa_gl_i_84241WWZNZJ9SFWQBTVD?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml2&tag=thriftytool04-20
I'm glad you addressed the flux at the end. I wondered why you weren't using it.
I have been talking flux on this channel for well over 6 years. Rosin flux for the larger components and Amtech 559 for SMD components for the most part. It is worth every penny...
Wow, this was fascinating. Thank you for walking us through it.
Very informative video. Cell balancing is important. All 14 cells get the same charging current , and all get the same discharge current. If you install a fully charged cell among 13 nearly drained cells then this cell will will get overcharged during a battery charge cycle which could be explosive for that installed cell! Likewise installing a drained cell among 13 fully charged cells and using the battery in a tool will drain this cell excessively to failure ( charging it in reverse polarity). With another 14 cells in parallel (in 5 Ah battery) even more issues occur. The installed drained cell will immediately get charged by the the second set of charged cells (but again overcharging the 13 other fully charged cells). I can only hope the BMS circuit should help correct or detect some of these cell balancing issues. A protective circuit inside each cell is another helpful thing. NiMh cells can cause fires if over charging or excessive draining to reverse polarity.
Correct, I always try to balance as close as possible of course. These lithium cells are very needy of the proper BMS. The EGO BMS like many others will monitor individual cells. Now when a BMS is working properly the following will happen.
If a fully charged cell is put in with 13 much lower cells, the pack will stop charging as soon as the 1 charged cells shows 4.2v therefore your pack capacity is around 0%. Of the opposite is done and a discharged cell is put in with 13 charged cells, then the pack will be similar about 0% usable capacity because the discharge cell will not charge In charger if the others are at 4.2v and if the cell is around 2.7V BMS will cut out pack output!
So what is the best way to equalize the batteries ?
One of the best ways for me is to disconnect the BMS board and use a balancing board like in the link below for example.
If not very unbalanced I will take time to bring up the few that are lower up to the higher voltage cells. For example bringing up a couple that are around 2.8V and the highest ones may be around 3V. So I will bring all up individually to 3V. It takes much time on a large pack so the board below works by soldering them on to each cell's test point. Some hobby chargers will do this also,but usually it's hard to find up to 14S model.
amzn.to/3OUUsXm
BIt of a crazy question, would it be possible to take the battery level indicator pcb board,from a (dead) modern series EGO battery pack and put it in an older series EGO battery pack, or would the battery indicator module/pcb board, bms and/or wiring (between the newer & older series batteries) likely be too different to allow the swap to work properly(?)
I believe some of the wiring maybe different, but at least the connectors are the same, so it is most likely possible. Some newer packs have an extra white wire from the pack. The Gen1 and Gen2 even had different connectors. So, at least it should be possible going from Gen2 to Gen3, but I haven't tried to do it yet.
Thank you for the great informative video! I know now that I won’t be repairing my ego batteries when they fail. I’m pretty handy repairing appliance’s and other equipment and I think I’ll pass on cell replacement. Did like your fuse repair on your 5ah Ego video repair!
Same here very grateful and I know that won’t be something I will even try
@thrifty Tool Shed Please do you know in batteries (BA1120E/BA2240E/BA3360E) which type of cell is used ?
At time marker 2:35 you are able to pry the plastic housing apart enough to slip the bad battery out of the black plastic holder.
I had no luck with that process.
I worked at it for a while and eventually ended up breaking the plastic holder. Which wasn't the end of the world as I could reassemble it with the screws.
It seems like the contact strips are welded on AFTER the batteries are put into the plastic holders. This means that in order to properly service these, it might be necessary to take all the metal strips off of at least one side of the pack and reattached them after battery replacement.
This is a disappointing amount of work, but might still be worth it to get the pack working again.
Unfortunately all packs are basically made this way and yes most of the time you will have to take one side completely a loose to get the bad cell out. Similar to a DeWalt Flexvolt pack I recently repaired. Every now and then where it is located you will get by taking the strips off of a few around it and pry it out as shown here. Sometimes you may be able to open up the hole in the plastic cage enough to push it through one side. I chose this repair to show since it would take less video time and still show alot of what takes place to replace a bad cell. Location of the cell in the pack is the determining factor of that one. Sometime it's worth the time but not always. It is often more than just one cell bad in a pack as well. I have had good luck with the EGO pack repairs so far making them really worth the effort, especially since they are over $200.
Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for your detailed and thoughtful reply. I've just purchased one more "for parts" 2.5 Ah battery from eBay. We will see how that works out.
Well if I wanted to save some money and replace all the cells by myself it sounds like a whole day of yelling and swearing but the satisfaction of saving a couple hundred dollars and the fact that i actually did the project makes the savings priceless
Nice catch at 6:07! Not your first rodeo obviously. Very informative video.
Thanks for your comment!
what is the order number for the replacement cells and where can one order them? I looked up the # shown in the video and had no hits. Appreciate the direction.
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 6 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
Thank you for your videos. I have an Ego 2.0 Ah BA2100 battery (manufacture date of Feb. 2015 and has worked flawlessly and used about 3 or 4 times/year and stored as recommended) that has the flashing deep orange lite when the button is pressed, I was using it on a new weed trimmer and didn't notice that I ran it until it ran out of juice and completely stopped. I tried to charge it but only got a solid red light on the charger after it tried to charge the battery. Total voltage is showing 45 volts. I opened the battery up and tested each of cell's voltages using the dots on the BMS board. It seems that all of the cells (14 in total) with the exception of B1, all have approximately 3.45 volts. B1 is showing .22 volts. I don't see any bulging going on that I am aware of and am wondering if you are aware of the location of the battery cells in the housing and where I would find cell B1. Also, do you know what battery would be a good replacement and where to purchase.
Thank you in advance for taking the time to read this and information you can provide.
Hi,
It's been some time since the EGO battery repairs, but this video below may help? I was helping someone with the wiring on the 2.5Ah and it may be the same or very similar. I usually get my cells from donor packs. In a crunch you could use a high quality 2000mah cell from 18650 battery store etc. It just will not have the phase changing sleeve unless you can get the old one off and put on it. I discuss a little more about replacement cells in the video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" also. Thanks for your kind comment!
ua-cam.com/video/RfTJODoh8Q4/v-deo.htmlsi=sPuzNsCXfxWoOCqm
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you so much for your very quick reply. It is most appreciated!
Stan R
Thanks for the video , excellent , clear and precise. Subscribed!
boastyy,
Very glad, thanks for your comment!
Thank you for information . I will keep on watching.
This is a great video! Just what I was looking for. I’ll try the same repair. Maybe use a 40 amp?
I replaced the soldered fuses on the SNT2100 snowblower, adding replaceable fuses and had to go to MAXI fuses to do 60 amp. So I’m wondering if the battery fuse should match these??
It does depend on the pack size. Although no rating on the trace I have used 40A fuse link strips soldered in with no issues. The 30A temporary fuse actually held up for testing in the 5ah pack. I did put in the 40A fuse link strip when it arrived though. I would think the 7.5Ah and larger should be 60A.
Thanks for your kind comment!
Ego does a good job disguising their batteries. The yellow is a sure sign. They are LG batteries with red shrink wrap, spacer, and then plastic shrink in green. Imagine replacing all the batteries with 3600 mAh 18650 batteries. So 14 would come out to 50.4 Ah.
Well it's 14s so 14 in series and that means the voltage adds up to over 56V, however the mah is same as individual cell. The pack would be 3.6Ah. unless you do more in parallel of course as the 4ah packs are 14S 2P so 2000mah is 4AH if that makes sense....
Thank you for this video.
I have a new EGO 56V 2.5AH Battery Pack, bought two months ago with an EGO lawn trimmer. After the trimming was done on the lawn (September 20, 2022), I fully charged it and set it aside. So far, so good.
The EGO Battery manual says that it is supposed to go to 30% after a month in storage, but as of November 5 , 2022 (well over a month), it still shows all 5 lines of FULL charge. It appears the BMS is not working to lower the battery pack to 30%. Is this battery defective? I read that at 80% or more charge, Lithium batteries lose 20% per year of capacity. I don't want to lose 20% a year. Just running the Battery Pack on the trimmer to force it down to 30% is NOT what the manual says I am supposed to do. What should I do?
Hi,
I do not have any of the newer style packs to say for sure, but yes I thought they would also go into a storage mode after 30 days. Unless it's a reason for the BMS to hold off like the Voltage was not full so it's waiting longer? I am not sure. I will say almost No battery manufacturers do this so it's a good thing to have, but most packs don't. It's a better idea to help the long term life, but does have a trade off. One example of a trade off is using the EGO Nexus power station as a back-up. That means when you need the power station all your packs could be at 30%. So I was wondering if EGO was going to increase the storage time on the redesigned packs for that reason? Maybe 60days? I would give it some more time and if you are sure it has not been used at all and over 60 days and simply sit on the shelf then you can ask EGO since it's under warranty!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you kindly. I will take your advice.
I've had this with my battery pack. I went to use it in the winter (stored indoors). And my capacity was a lot lower than full. Unfortunately the battery would not charge to full after this :/. I was in warranty so I was able to get a replacement. If I were you I make sure everything's registered and utilize your warranty if something goes amiss. I tore my old battery down after I got the replacement in. And it turns out one cell went bad. Reads 0.296 volts whereas the rest of the cells read 4.06v. Which is sad :(. Im not really sure I want to find a dead pack on ebay and replace it. As I'm not sure if the BMS is acting up. And the potential of the pack being a fire hazard amidst a repair. I plan on disposing it to my states hazardous disposal locations.
Glad I saw your videos, Looks Like I almost fell into the EGO trap, of Battery short Life. I think Ill hold off buy anything EGO, since the Battery Life is Not very long, If their Battery warranty was 3 years I would consider them
Hi,Sorry for the confusion the warranty is 5 years on power equipment and 3 years on the battery packs. Just did not mean to sound to negative about the battery the faulty transistor on a few packs is the only problem I know of, I really do love the power of the equipment, but hope they improve on the packs.I really like the weed trimmer and blower and I now have a 5.0 ah 16" chainsaw and it is awesome. Thanks for your comment!
As far as battery durability goes, it's better to get the larger battery packs, simply because it's spreading the load (charge/discharge) over a larger number of cells, so each cell isn't working as hard.
I am assuming these batteries are 18650's rated at 2.5ah each? any recommendation on source and brand for a replacement cell?
Yes you are correct. Several viewers have mentioned the brand and type of cells in the comments. Sanyo UR18650NSX is one mentioned by (Jonathan Ridder). (Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR 18650 wrapped in a paraffin wax/carbon graphite phase change sleeve.
Also use lead solder. melts at a lower temperature so you don't have to overheat the cell.
I have a bunch of ego stuff. Happy so far.
I just got a 5.0ah battery and it was dead. No lights.
Put it on one of my chargers and the charger shows all green. Battery shows red.
Now battery flashes red and will not charge.
My question is, do you think the batteries can be brought back by direct charging? At least enough to trick the brains into working on the charger?
The charge slots on the back of the battery, wondering if I can put a charge on the positive and negative for about 10 minutes.
Thoughts?
Edit- I decided to apply a charge to the terminals and got the battery to around 52volts. Light went green on battery.
However the charger does the same thing showing steady green and nothing. Tried 2 chargers. I’m thinking something else is wrong.
Although you have to be careful, I believe it is fine to use current limited supply. I do recommend taking the pack apart and making sure it's not unbalanced or that some cells alot lower than others. If so you need to charge them individually. In series could be bad if some read low. I am assuming your pack is out of warranty, if not EGO is good about sending replacement!
Thrifty Tool Shed I just got a chainsaw kit with the 5.0 battery. Battery was doa and labeled oct 2018!
Ego has always been great - they are sending a replacement. But in the meantime I wanted to see what was going on with this battery. (I’m assuming it sat around for a year and discharged unfortunately).
I paralleled a working battery for about 100 seconds and got the bad one to read about 52v. Green light on battery and battery worked on a tool. The charger still won’t allow a charge to it. So I’m thinking the internal circuitry is responsible. Which could be a dead cell. :(
@@ericeric5104
Sounds like it could be a bad cell. If it is just one maybe the others have not overcharged while putting the 56v across it.
After buying a few bad packs from ebay over the last couple of years I had some BMS boards I repaired and are good spare and I also was able to get some good cells out of them. Can be a good way to get good spare parts if the price is good enough!
Thrifty Tool Shed I’m gonna wait on opening the case until the new battery arrives. (Not sure if I will have to send this one back or not).
If it’s just a cell or two, that’d be great! And not hard to fix.
If I get to keep the battery, I’ll get into it for more diagnostics.
Gonna get into it this weekend. What do you recommend for a replacement cell if no other ego cells are available?
I feel like if I had the skills and knowledge then rebuilding my tool batteries might be more worth my while even over dealing with warranties, but especially after the warranties expire. There’s just a lot more for me to learn about battery tech.
So you can add in a new cell to the pack without negative effects? I’m thinking along the lines mixing old and new batteries - forgive my ignorance on the subject. I know there has to be a difference here.
I always try to add in close as possible to the cells in pack. If you have time to test capacity of all cells you can get them working well. I also save time by keeping alot of spare cells around from similar packs and usually the same exact match and it easier to keep packs going when one or two cells fail on you. Unfortunately the answer to fixing a pack right is obviously to replace all the cells at the same time, but that is usually not cost effective unless you have plenty around like I mentioned earlier. One way I do this is buying many bad packs and keeping good parts and taking many and getting a few in good operation as well as still having some good tested cells left over and sometimes even at the recycling centers and Home Depot etc. They will allow you to go through and get the packs in there out of the recycle bin and we will save alot of good cells from being recycled before they need to. Really a win-win if you like learning more about and working on things!
Does anyone know where to get the cells for these?
good video and good safety and tips on materials. Can you add in detail on the actual battery you replaced - ie looks like sourced from US battery pack so already matched but if no other packs - is it a 2500mah NCR 18650 li ion cell or a Lipo cell and what current rating etc - can I get these online?
I actually still have not had luck finding the specs on the cells. I have only replaced cells with another faulty pack. ie: I purchased several faulty packs and some of the cells were good and some bad, so I combined and one had to be a donor battery! The outer green sleeve on the has the EGO #170377 and the inner red sleeve of the actual cell has no number just a QR code printed on it so no real luck finding data other than the obvious that the 2.5ah pack cells should have a 2500mah rating, I would assume that the 5.0 pack has same cells but also has 14s set in parallel with the first 14s to give combined 5.0 ah. Sorry that's all the information I have. Thanks so much for your comments!
@@ThriftyToolShed The cells in this pack are Sanyo UR18650NSX .
@@jonathanridder Awesome, Thanks for sharing!
I bet that cell is the one that most often fails in an EGO battery pack, being part of the first parallel pair in the series chain. All the current intended for the entire series chain flows though that first pair, both on charging and discharging.
Too bad a "balanced" setup isn't used, as they do in R/C modelling. In the R/C field, each cell in a pack is charged individually to the exact voltage of the other cells .. to alleviate the pressure on the first pair in series.
Those batteries are so expensive that honestly I am shocked the chargers and batteries are not designed to balance charge. Lithium batteries are MUCH safer when the individual cells are kept balanced.
They'd be much more expensive since all 28 cells would need their own + and - contacts .. but no bloated cells pretty much ever.
Hi,
I do believe the BMS board does balance very well typically. Each of the 14 cell groups are monitored and go to its own discharge transistor on the BMS for at least some percent of unbalance. I am not sure what percentage that is. I really think it is a problem only when the cell capacity is off enough to already be bad from my experience. I will try to rebalance, but after a couple cycles it's back that way again. Testing individual cells show the large capacity difference between the cells in the pack which will never stay balanced in that manor. Thanks for your comment!
I love my Ego tools and use them alot but those batteries seemed to be timed to fail every 2 years. I called my local batteries plus store to see if they could open up the case and replace the dead batteries for less than the $150 price tag of the replacement batteries. I have a garage full of dead batteries now. They told me that they don't replace the lithium ion batteries die to fire hazzards. I am enjoying this video but scared to try it myself. Do you want to refurbish my dead batteries? :-) I have plenty of them.
I am very surprised that batteries+ does not do that. I wish I could help, but I get asked this so often that I could never keep up, especially with a full time job+ and the time I put in this channel is tremendous.
I try to share what I learned to hopefully help someone else. I actually have a couple of my own waiting to be repaired right now.
Very informative video. Some of us don't have spare cells. Are these cells 18650 NImh 3.7 V, 2600 mAh flat top batteries like those in e-cigs?
To me they look like 21700 batteries could be 20700 not to mention there are many many different batteries with different mah like 18650 batteries come in anywhere from 2000mah to 3600mah. Also vape mods range in battery sizes as well not just 18650s
These are Li-ion 18650 2500mah and every EGO pack I have ever worked on has the 18650 physical size cells.
I do not know what is in the newer 10ah pack though.
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
When you started talking about balanced cells, I had a hard time wrapping my mind around the issue.
For some reason, in my mind, I see all the cells attached Positive to Positive and Negative to Negative, thus allowing all the cells to balance themselves overnight as they sit, correct? Or am I missing something obvious? Or is it 2 sets of 28v packs in series to make 56v? I guess that having them in series would make that balancing important... I think I'm beginning to see...
Yes the cells are 14S or all 14 in series therefore one bad cell or low cell can really get the pack out of wack. But to your point the higher capacity packs such as 5.0ah or 7.5ah do have 2 or more in parallel and those pair are in series with 14 other set to make up the 56V and twice the capacity! Sometimes refered to as 2P 14S. Hope it helps!
@@ThriftyToolShed
This is a genius reply, brother. Thanks for that clarification. I appreciate it.
@@barrettabney the cell will balance it will draw power from the one's connected to it 👍
The fuse on my 56v 5ah battery fried so I wired in an external fuse. The PCB is fine as I get a green light, it fully charges, but when I run it in the snowblower, it only goes about 2 seconds and quits with orange flashing on the battery. Could that be because it’s not fused at the right amperage? I soldered in a 10 gage fuse holder. I tried a 40 amp and a 15 amp with same results. Any ideas?
Usually blinking orange is a temperature issue. I have one video on a similar issue and had a loose connection in the middle temp. sensing board of the pack. It could be other issues as well though. These packs have several (NTC) temperature sensors in them.
Nice videos Thrifty Tool Shed! I recently acquired an Ego nexus inverter that didn’t come with a battery. I have the guts from an Ego battery that I dismantled a while back. I am attempting to re-assemble it with a fresh set of cells, but I want to be sure that I connect the bms leads to the correct cells. Can someone tell me exactly which color wire goes to the correct side of which cell? I’m really hoping I can get this pack operating like it’s supposed to so I can use my new nexus inverter! Thanks!
You would probably need to get the schematic or data sheet of the bms I hope you can find it the color wires are balance wires the 2.5 ah should be a 14s1p configuration the 5 ah 14s2p and 7.5 ah 14s3p. s meaning series and p meaning parallel. 3 cells in series 4 of the packs of 3 in parallel for a 12v battery 5 ah assume each single cell is 2.5 ah. 3 cells in series and 2 packs of those 3 cells in parallel. If you need any insight on what I said reach out to me.
i have a 7.5ah that i, for some stupid reason, ripped the sensor board off the top of one of the pack of batteries. it also has a bad bms as well. if i were to donate it could you make a video of the repair for us?
Those are clearly Sanyo cells either UR18650NSX or UR18650Y, both having the yellow ring at the top. I’m betting they’re the NSX’s since these are 20A high drain cells 2600mAh capacity. While the Y’s are only 4A cells. Especially with them powering eGo devices, thats your answer right there!
This has been talked about in the comments a lot over the years. The Sanyo cells have been mentioned many times. Thanks for your comment.
Sorry, am I the only one who doesn't know how you'd have equalized the cells after replacing one or more? Please comment.
Also, are the black plastic sleeves just there as telltales - so it's easy to spot which cell/s overheated at some point, and proceed with replacing them?
The pack I came across is probably a lost cause - multiple cells have sleeves that feel soft like modeling clay, and not ONE of them looks like it's got well-defined edges, at least seen through the shrink-wrap, so I'm thinking the whole thing got into meltdown range.
Well the sleeves are there to help a little if they do get to high temperature by using the latent heat absorption to its advantage I believe. The phase change should help with that in theory. It does also let you know that some cells have gotten hotter than others as well. The best way to tell if a cell is really bad is how balanced the cells are. I usually balance mine by unplugging the BMS board and taking time to charge up each cell (group) to the same charge level as the highest charged group of cells. If it's a lot of cells out of balance then a cell balancing board is worth the effort. I just use my bench PS with current limited if it's just a couple groups out of balance. Typically if they are out of balanced baldly or even much below the 2.5V minimum voltage threshold they are at least lost capacity somewhat. I discuss a little about this in my video called Lithium battery FAQ#1.
How often are your EGO cells failing? How do you know? Is it lost capacity or lost max voltage? Any other battery packs you recommend (greenworks, or ...)?
I have actually only lost cells on the one EGO pack I own and it was due to the BMS board failure as shown in the repair video. The cell would not have failed if not for the shorted transistor in the BMS. It pulled the pack down below safe level for the 18650 cells. I have only had a failure on the one pack out of 5 packs that I own. I have had them for about 2 years. I still love my EGO stuff, but I hope they take care of the battery BMS issues and put a fuel gauge on the future designs. I do not have any Green works etc. to say one way or the other. I do however own alot of Milwaukee tools. I have had no issues with any 18v Milwaukee tools or packs and I have owned them for a out 3 years. Hope it helps, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for responding! Very helpful info. I guess with the 3 year warranty you're covered, apart from some shipping and waiting hassles. Checkout the greenworks website. It's hard, because I want to pick one Great brand and stick to their tools and battery packs, instead of doubling up on everything. Great videos, keep it up...
Rumor has it Greenworks uses Panasonic batteries. But no arc technology. Can't really go wrong with either. Ryobi's 40v for their lawnmowers works, but they are overworked and get way too hot, and won't last as long.
Thanks JM for the extra info...
mine lasted 5 years
I really enjoy your videos on Ego battery repairs and have learned a lot from them. I have repaired one 2.5AH battery with bad Q12 in it and also had another with a bad Q12 and three bad battery cells. I got the exact replacement Samsung cells and got everything back together. I balanced all the cells as you have mentioned in other videos too. When I run the battery in a blower it will run for a few minutes and then the red light flashes. The three cells I replaced did not have the covering or sleeves on them like the originals. I think because of that the board is shutting it down for overheating. Have you every tried to replace with other batteries or have you always used the EGO cells from other batteries? I would be interested if you tried to use other replacement batteries and see if you have the same results. I will also try to get three other cells from a battery off E-Bay and see if I can get the battery back operational. Just would love to know if you can only use the EGO batteries and know that the others will not work. The others charge up fine and balance out fine, it is that they just won't work in the EGO chargers for some reason and would like to know why and what that is for the sleeves to be able to use any battery to repair as long as it was the same model. You can also reach me at jkmoth@aol.com. Name is John.
Hi John,
I have only replaced mine with the like cells from spare part packs that the cells test great capacity on. So I do not know for sure, however, I would not have thought that the sleeved would matter unless almost to a overheat state. They are a phase change sleeve and it would take alot of latent energy to transform phase. So I would not think a few minutes if running would cause that. If possible I would load the pack on the bench opened up and see if you catch a particular cell dropping off after the few minutes of run time. It could be another cell (or cells) giving capacity issues and it is hard to catch. Another thing is it could be a bad connection to the BMS and it thinks one of the cells is dropping off. I had a similar issue on a 4ah pack repair video lately and I also mentioned on there that the red led almost seems to flash a code of pulses for which cell number is indicating faulty. I am a long ways from totally figuring that part out, but it is interesting...
Great job on your packs and thanks for your kind comment.
Hope it helps and best of luck to ya!
Could you tell me what are te replacement cells you are using
Ever seen one where all the cells are swollen? I’ve got one of the previous generation 2.5Ah ones and it charges ok but runs out very quickly. Pulled it apart and all 14 cells look barrel shaped. Probably not worth repairing?
All the 2.5ah have the phase sleeves and so stick out. If it's more rounded as I showed in a couple of videos then they did get hot at some point. I would check the voltage on each cell and see how they all measure and go from there. If all cells read low voltage the pack is most likely beyond economical repair unless you have cells around and tested as I mentioned in the video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1"
Way too complicated for we non electricians. Geez. Thanks for the video anyway
I don’t know if you are monitoring your older posts but a neighbor has a 2.5 that is no longer charging. Red light of death. When I cut the sleeve off the a couple of the Samsung 18650 r25 batteries, there’s moister inside the sleeve and the insulation is wet. Have you ever seen this before? Any recommendations? 4:42 thanks.
I have seen this mostly in other packs with 18650 cells. I have not seen as many EGO packs with this issue. Typically the 18650 cells have overheated and the electrolyte is leaking from the cells. Many times the phase change wax sleeves will show signs of being melted as the edges of the sleeves will be rounded and tapered rather than square and straight as they are before overheating.
@@ThriftyToolShed would you recommend replacing all the cells then? What’s really interesting is all the cells are showing the same charge, 3.16v. Anyway, thanks for the fast response!
@@bclohan5146
If it was mine I would try them out and see how they work. They do really need replacement!
@@ThriftyToolShed just took apart a 2.5Ah pack. It had a bad Q12. Two cells tested and charged fine, but had the black ooze coming out of the ends. Removed the green outer wrap and the black phase change material was like toothpaste. Cleaned it all off and the battery was not leaking electrolyte. Do you think the material wrapping the battery may be a safety fire retardant?
Also fyi, it was hard to read, but the cell had a faint lettering for Sanyo L, UR18650 NSX u41A.
Thanks for teaching me how to repair it.
@@thebood4553
I believe the phase change material is mostly to help in overheating situations to keep the cells from damage. It is using latent heat to help draw the inner heat from the cells and seems like a really cool idea. I don't know how well it works really though and I would think the cells should work fine without it in most cases. The 3P packs actually don't use the sleeves from what I have seen. I see it as more of a protection once it goes hotter than a normal use, but no other brand packs that I know of use it. It is just an extra layer to protect the cell from possible over heat. We have discussed the types of cells over the years in some of the video discussions as well. In the past...
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
Awesome job repairing the pack!
Hi, where do you buy the replacement battery for your EGO battery power pack? Thanks
Hi,
I have some from other packs parted out typically. I mention more about this in a video called Lithium Battery FAQ#1.
how did you equalize the cells? Cycling or did you have to individually discharge each of them?
Sometimes I use a bench top supply set to CC and CV. Most of the time I use a charger/capacity tester with the individual cells as shown in my video "Lithium Battery FAQ#1".
Thanks for the excellent video. Do you know if it's possible to replace all the cells with a different type? For example, Samsung 30Q which will give a similar discharge rate but more capacity.
I have not done it, but I believe it would be fine. I have done this same thing with other brand packs in the past with success. Best of luck! Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed OK thanks! If I do give it a try I will report back and let you know. Cheers
i just tested the voltage and it's showing 4v... i think that q12 drained it.
I must have missed the info - Where did the spare replacement battery come from? a different battery pack? Or can you buy replacement cells somewhere?
I have mentioned in several repair videos that I have bought some bad packs from eBay over the years and some even found in recycle bins etc. I share some info on the FAQ video as well.
ua-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/v-deo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed So you get replacement cells from other used batteries? You mix and match? Ego does not sell a single new cell>?
No. I shared how I do it in the video.
@ThriftyToolShed yeah, that's the first sentence in my first comment! I must have missed that information! That is why I posted a comment. I was hoping a viewer or someone would let me know so I would not have to rewatch! thanks.
@zaz4667
I was referring to the FAQ video I shared a link of. I did not know if you seen it at the bottom of my comment. I seen your comment and assumed you were talking about the video you commented on. Since it's probably 5 years old I can't remember if I mentioned it in that one or not, but I absolutely did a video to answer questions later. In my first reply to you!
Get a pulse spot welder, just easy and cleaner.
I do like spot welding but not on rebuilds when the surfaces are hard to get flush for spot welding. Quick and cool fast soldering works best for me on old tested good cell if you are safe with it which is why I shared it.
How many and what type of 18650 comes with stock battery of ego 56v , means either they are sony sanyo or samsung 18650, more simply either they are sony vtc, samsung inr or else? Plz i need to know before buying that pack, plz tell me specification of 18650 used in that pack along with its mAh and company too
Well the 2.5ah will have the 14 of the 2500mah cells of course. The 5ah should have 28 of the similar cells and the 7.5ah I would think has 43 of them since it is a 14S 3P pack. As far as the name of manufacturer, I have not found it in mine and they may not all be the same. They seem special made for Chervon for the Ego packs and wrapped in the phase change sleeve. A couple of viewers have commented about the packs in there's....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
@@ThriftyToolShed i was about to buy fully working pack of 2.0ah with all lights working for 11$ per pack, but if cells dont have ratings printed on them it would be difficult to sell those cells for me. Thanks alot for giving me information.
Where did you get a new battery and how did you balance it before installing it. Thanks.
I had bought several bad or non working packs of eBay years ago and fixed most of them and a couple I just parted out the cells that were in like new condition and capacity. I just use a CC or constant current supply to charge up individual cells to the same voltage charge level as the pack I am repairing. Several viewers have commented about the cells they believe the packs they have in them...
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX.
(Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
Great video!
I have two "bad" ego 2.5vbatteries, can I send them to you to make 1 good battery?
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
I was thinking of using my ebike battery (14s 6p, 52v) in a back pack to power an ego leaf blower which is yet to be bought. Would this work? Do you know if there is some special requirement to make the ego tools accept a battery. I know on some tools, there is a resistor that must be wired to one of the secondary terminals. I was hoping you might know. Thanks.
The pack has communication to the tool so the D-terminal is the main concern. Without the D-terminal the tool will run approximately 10 secs and shutdown. I have a video called "What is the D-terminal?" where I discuss what little bit I have learned about it so far. I do not know of any work around with the EGO BMS at this time.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks. I will look at that video. I watched a video called 'EGO Battery Vs EGO Generic Battery' so it appears there are clones, but unless the D-terminal protocol is trivial, this would be beyond my current capability. Too bad.
I have 2 videos looking at the cheaper clone EGO 56V batteries and that was the only reason I actually bought the first one to test (5AH). I wanted to see how they made the BMS work. Actually they copied the BMS board almost component to component and apparently copied the microcontroller program. So I was at least impressed that they made it work. The 2nd video was on a 6AH that the company sent me to have another look at it.
Any tips on getting a cell out that's in the middle? That's my current predicament.
The pack does separate into halves easily, however to get to the middle of the pack is not so easy. You will most likely have to pop aloose all the spot weld joints on at least one side and then it usually will pop out once you pop the cell aloose from the opposite side!
@@ThriftyToolShed Ahh, alrighty. Thanks!
I'm curious if those are LG or Samsung cells. Can you say their dimensions are very close to a 18650 or a 21700 cell?
If it's a 18650 cell, my best bet is the LG 2500mah high drain cells. My only doubt is color of the spacer between the +\- being yellow in this video and actual cell's is white
They are 18650 and yes should be 2500mah for sure. Some viewers have commented about the cells they seen in there's...
I found no info on mine...
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
Very nice video. Thank you.
Dream Hero, Thanks for your comment.
I have the 2.5Ah battery. It's 5 years old but infrequently used. I used it three weeks ago and stopped using the tool before the battery ran out. I went to charge it today and it won't charge. The pack voltage is only reading 6V. It's beyond repair, cost-wise, is that correct? Thanks for the videos.
Well most likely it is at the minimum lost capacity of some cells. All you can really do is use a CC CV power supply to slowly bring up the charge level and see how much the cells may be damaged or if it will charge up much at all. You could get lucky and get some capacity back from it. Most likely it will need all cells replaced. One other option is to sell it on eBay. These packs will still bring money for parts on eBay.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the response. I have a 30V/4A power supply. Do you think it's possible to use that to bring up the voltage of the pack to a level where the EGO charger can take over and bring it to a full charge? Do you know the minimum voltage the charger is looking for?
@@PapaDikpill
It would be a good start to see how well the pack responds, but no not enough to pick up for EGO charger. That is why I shared the video of the DROK DC-DC Buck converter. It can use another EGO pack to safely bump up the charge in the bad one with current control. You can also use a 0-60V PS.
@@PapaDikpill
Many of these 56V charger models need a charge of over 40V to pick up.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for all the help. I'll take a look at your buck converter video. I just ordered a 4Ah battery with the fuel gauge for $140, which seems like a pretty good price. I may use that to see if I can recover the bad one. Thanks again.
What are the phase change sleeves used for?
They are to take advantage of latent heat. So the energy it takes for a material to change phases is great so theoretically it will absorb a lot of heat to phase change from solid to liquid. I guess it's similar to water becoming steam and the latent heat. I don't know how effective it is, but it's a cool idea..
What is the format of 21700 cells?
These are phase change sleeve wrapped 18650 cells. 21700 cells are 21mm in Diameter and 70mm long. 0 at the end is designating cylindrical cells.
Been a bit... broke down my defective 5.0ah battery and found a defective cluster. On the bigger batteries they are grouped in 3 or 4 cells.
Where did you get the other ego cells? Rather than buy the same type, I’m leaning towards finding another defective battery to keep things the same.
By the way... I tried force charging the battery by applying a power source directly to the battery. Got the pack up to 52 volts max. That’s how I found the 3 bad cells. Not charging at all.
I’m gonna get after it, but I’m looking for a junk ego battery. eBay?
That is exactly what I did, buy some bad packs on eBay for spare cells. If you are lucky check with the Home Depot recycle bin and some times you will find a EGO pack in it! That idea came from a viewer in the comments and I thought Home Depot would not allow it, but they actually never care, the manager looks at you a little weird and says OK!👍
how long did these cells last before melt down ?
None of my packs have had this sleeve melting. Just the bad packs I ordered back then off eBay for spare parts! So unsure of what they were exposed to honestly. Could have been rare faulty pack, could have been abused? I am not sure...
my Green light stays on even when the battery is out or off the charger do you know what problem this might be?
I have a video repairing the quick charger, I have not had issues with the base model charger yet. Just a thought, have you tried more than one battery pack just just to make sure it's not something with the pack giving it weird issues?
Do you know if their batteries talk to their tools, specifically the Nexus generator? I have a few 52V (14s) ebike batteries I'd like to use with it, so I'm trying to figure out a way to hook them up to the generator. If the generator needs an Ego battery, I was thinking maybe I could wire the ebike battery in parallel with the Ego battery.
I have not seen the Nexus yet. I am very interested in it however. So in short I know little about it. The 56V packs do have a third connection back to the tools, I am not sure if it is just a ntc feedback for temperature or if it is more than that.
It appears to communicate with the battery. I just tried to apply power to the contacts of the Nexus, and the display lit up when I pressed the power button, but then it went off. I'll try paralleling with an Ego battery next.
I have just tried to parallel my 52V bike battery with the Ego battery, and it worked! The Ego batteries are actually 52V (14 cells in series). The next step is to open up the Ego unit so that I can hardwire an XT90-S connector to it so that I can plug my battery directly into it. When the Ego is operating, all batteries are connected in parallel, so it doesn't matter what capacity battery you attach to each port. They all drain equally.
is cell 14 the last cell in the series?
Yes.
What would happen if the 2500mah batteries were changed out too 3500mah would bms still work ? Higher amp battery? The phase change material do you know where it can be purchased?
I don't see why it would not work. It is simply reading voltage accross the cells even in the 5ah or 7.5ah pack it is 2 cells or 3 cells in parallel and it works fine. I do believe the BMS board microcontroller is programmed differently for the 2.5ah, 5ah and 7.5ah packs because they have different thermistor feedback and I believe they also let the pack know what capacity is on some tools through the D-terminal. I still don't see major difference other than that! The heat sleeves I have not come accross yet, but after buying some bad packs off of eBay and repaired a bunch of them, I ended up with some with bad cells and just parted it out after load testing the spare cells and recycling the bad cells I will keep the sleeve and the tested good cells. It may be hard to find the sleeves since they are so delicate. They will crumble. I would think we may have to eventually make our own it seems like mostly paraffin wax with a graphite mixed in?
@@ThriftyToolShed excellent just picked up 8 x 2.5ah 1 x7.5ah in Australia for $150au hoping to repair them all.. cheers Wayne
Sounds fun. Wish you the best of luck! Cheers!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks my only worry is the whole balance charging thing, search of UA-cam for absolute noob on subject don't exist all the 1p 3p etc confuses hell out of me I've got the tools, charger, analyser, kweld spot welder. Isdt 8 balancer How to get em all too work arghh , just ordered drok buck converter, if you ever get time " Battery Cells for Beginners " make great video! Thanks again for the work you do on your videos they are enjoying to watch Wayne
Thanks for your comment. I may definitely consider a video on the cells. The 14S is just referring to the 14 cells in series so 4v×14= 56V. Then the 2P or 3P is the cells in parallel so 2p just means 2 of the 4v cells in parallel which doubles the capacity so 2P or 2 2500ma cells in parallel gives the 5000ma or 5.0AH pack because those have 28 cells which is 14 of those 2P in series. So of course the 3P is just 3 cells in parallel giving 7.5AH and uses a total of 42 cells Hope this clears up a little? Best of luck to ya!
Stupid question, how do I test my ego battery. I used a cheap voltmeter from harbor freight, I hooked it up to the positive and negative terminals and sparks flew. (Good thing it was a free voltmeter).
Well, you just measure the terminals marked + and - with a meter set to read DC volts. Make sure the leads are in the correct jack for measurement of Voltage. If you have the lead in the current or Amps jack it will be a dead short basically. If a cheaper meter is on Ohms or resistance measurement it may do a similar thing if you put it accross 56V.
Thrifty Tool Shed thanks! I tested mine, it’s showing 46 volts on a 5ah battery. I’ve tried to charge it and it goes from green to either blinking red or it will show that it’s 100% charged. I can plug it into my weed whacked or the mower and it will run for a few seconds then the light will go back to blinking red. Any ideas of what I need to replace?
Usually blinking red is a sign of a pair of cells in the 5ah that is reading low. Could sometimes be a bad connection as I showed in one of my last 4ah repairs. Most of the time it is a set of cells reading low in the pack. Measuring accross the 14 different sets you will most likely find a set or more than one set reading low. For example if you are reading 46V on pack that is average 3.3V or so accross each 14 sets. You may find some cell pairs less or even much less than that. The pack should normally stay pretty balanced accross all 14 but when they have some cells going bad they can get bad out of balance and some cells are close to 4.2V and the pack will not allow any further charging at the same time some cells could be reading only 3.0V and as soon as they drop to 2.7V the pack cuts out and blinks red. Hope it helps! Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed If my battery is blinking red and won't charge due to a few low cells, but I can slowly drain it using the headlights on my mower, would the high cells eventually reach equilibrium with the low cells, allowing the pack to charge again? (I can sometimes get the battery to work on my blower for a few seconds... is this a good way to repeatedly drain the battery to get the cells back to similar voltages?)
Well if it is out of balance it can't make a big difference in the cells. In other words the BMS is designed to keep the cells balanced and monitor them, but the cells have to all be in good shape. If some cells start losing capacity and are basically mismatched now that is a problem. It can't automatically correct that. You would have to individually test and charge each cell, but most likely some of the cells are lower in capacity now and may pull down lower again. All you can do is test and try though. Best of luck to ya!
Where can I purchase the individual cells?
I keep lots of spare cells from almost new packs parted out as well as other cells tested very well for capacity. I just about always have what I need for spares. I usually do not recommend cells because so many times it's hard to verify that they are not fake cells. The main thing to make sure is that the seller is truly selling genuine cells. I have had great luck using 18650batteeystore.com in the past.
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
I get asked this over and over I have a video discussing some of this.
ua-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/v-deo.html
Hi do you think the ego 56v 2ah. Battery gauge cap is same as ego 56v 10ah gauge.?i have 10ah ego 56v and have shorted one of 3 connectors so gauge don’t work.battery ok. But can’t charge with ego charger,can charge to 54 v with ebike charger,I bought ego 56v 2ah hope to swap over battery gauge Being careful with connectors 😀
I don't have one to say for sure, but I doubt it. I know on the older boards the 2.5ah and the 5ah are not the same. They are similar but have different connectors. I am talking about the original style board. I have not yet taken apart a new style pack with the 5 segment fuel gauge.
Thrifty Tool Shed mmm .could the 2’ah gauge work on the 10ah one maybe tricky wiring
So they like jst connectors about 7 pin may have some
The connectors do look similar to jst, but not sure exactly, I know the pin size is smaller on the 5ah than the 2ah....
could it be asbestos in the battery sleeve?
It has been mentioned on here in the comments that it could be carbon fiber and parafin wax? Not exactly sure though!
No link for the cells? What do I need to orde for 5000 mah.
We have several comments about this here. I mentioned that I use the spare cells from bad packs I ordered and tested and kept the good. It has been other comments from viewers such as ...
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX.
(Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite. You will need 2500mA cells for the 5aH. 2p 14S pack
How much do you charge to repair them? I have a dead one.
Hi,
I try to share what I have learned with the community and since I have a full-time job as Industrial Reliability Technician I don't have time to do alot of repairs. Hopefully with what I have time to share in several of the videos it will prove helpful. Shipping would be so expensive also. I do hope you can find someone more local to you that can help you out sir. Thanks for watching and Thanks your comment!
mine lasted 5 years
Mine lasted 2.5. Now it’s dead and I’m thinking about repairing it. Your video is way helpful. Thanks.
Hey Thrifty, so are the cells the same ones whether 2.5 , 5 or 7ah, interchangable?
I do believe so, I know the 2.5 and 5.0 are. It only make sense that the 7.5 is also the same just 3P. The only difference that I know of in the EGO packs right now are the older 2.0 and the 4.0 probably have the same 2000mah cells and the new 10ah pack. Wow! I guess it is 5000mah cells in 2p configuration? I guess it's that or 3500 cells in 3P?
@@ThriftyToolShed hello again i just got my 1st 2.5ah non working pack, took it apart and all the cells on bank closest to wiring /board are bad except for one. so 5 are balanced at about .72 tu.67 one is at -.02. I know you cant tell me what is wrong lol, but what should i check or do next? I basically am waiting to get a good price on non working 5.0ah on ebay and combine this one to have a working 5ah battery. Im trying to learn. i also just ordered the drok power source to test/charge cells. Not here yet though. thanks for all your knowledge ...ps what type of solder(percentage rating) do you use to connect cells when replacing
The cells may be to the point of no return. If you are careful, you can slowly apply a charge (with the Drok as you mentioned) to see if they will revive. Chances are several are bad and maybe some will charge up with not much capacity left, and maybe a few will charge up and have some capacity left in them?
I know it's a gamble, I just received a 4ah with all bad cells, the pack had severe water damage. Another 4ah, someone had pulled all the wires out of the BMS connectors and just put the cover back on? It actually arced when I took the cover off⚡, lol...
As far as solder, I think you are asking solder type? I use both lead free and the leaded, usually around 60/40 blend. I like the leaded, it flows better to me. To me the most important thing is prep. I clean and scuff the surfaces then apply rosin flux and then use high wattage iron. The 150-200 watt iron is the best to me because it heat the concentrated area up fast then stick the solder and cool fast. I will use spot welder at times but as long as you are careful and do not heat up cell much, solder to me is fine. Be careful with the positive side especially, making sure you don't come accross the negative case at all. I always recommend the have cells discharged down to cut off point before soldiering just for safety, lots of stored energy for sure, Be careful and best of luck to ya!
I cannot do this lol,it's too much of tactics for me so if my batteries ever go bad i can sell you it for parts what do you say?
I got an ebay account,,,great video though.
How do you equalize the cells ?
I simply make sure all cells are very close to same charge level. One easy way is just use a bench power supply set at 1A current limit to charge each cell up to the level the highest cell is at in the pack. You can just fully charge them all to 4.2Volts it will just take alot of time.
That's a Sanyo 18650. Sanyo cells are known to be heaters.
We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
I have a 5.0 Ah pack, which has the same cells you have in this video, but arranged in 14 paralleled pairs.
One pair reads 0.59v each, all others are @ 3.5v.
Call the bad pair "pair" 14.
One of the pair looked like it leaked or corroded. I wasnt able to manually jump-charge eithre of them.
Since they are arranged in pairs in this pack, can I get away with splitting a good pair, say "pair 13" and using just 1 cell for each of the "pair locations" 13 & 14? Meaning not paralleled, just one cell for those two locations?
I realize those single celled locations will discharge (and charge) quicker than the paralleled pairs and cause the pack to call for a charge sooner, but is this doable until I can get some replacement cells?
Or is the BMS smarter than that?
I would think it might be an issue on the charge and discharge cycle. The BMS will know the cells are charging at twice the rate as well. So even to get by using it as a 2.5ah pack, I would think chances are you will have to manually charge the cells up. (the charger most likely will be faulting out) Just my thoughts, I haven't tried it.
@@ThriftyToolShed Wow, thanks for the quick response!
I was also considering removing 1/2 of each pair to downgrade the pack to a 2.5ah, but again, maybe the BMS won't allow?
I'm getting a fast blinking red light, not sure if 2 new cells will resolve. Worth a try though.
If nothing else, I guess I can salvage the 12 working cells and maybe keep to repair a used or refurbished 5.0.
@@maorienteg Yes I understand salvaging the cells for sure, I have done that on one and its helped repair several I have now. I am almost sure the BMS board is the same, but it could be additional wires going to the board through the small connectors on the 5.0 VS 2.5. Other than that, it seems plausible! I do have a video of the wiring placement for the 2.5 pack because a viewer needed it to put his back together and it might help watching it to compare with your 5.0 without having to disassemble another pack. Seems like the viewer did mention his 5.0 pack had additional wires populated in the connector to the bms board....
@@ThriftyToolShed Cool, ty.
FWIW I went ahead and tried it with 1 cell each in "pair positions" 13 and 14. I got about a 3.5v incremental increase at each test point on the BMS pcb. It started to charge for about 5 seconds but then back to the blinking red lights. Bummer.
I'm going to purchase 2 cells and see if I can bring this one back to life. Hoping its just the cells and not something else too.
I also ordered a refurbed pack as a backup plan.
This has been fun! Thanks again for all the vids and experience regarding.
@@maorienteg Hopefully the cells will do it. Great attempt by the way!
Best of luck to you...
Hi,. I have a dead 56v battery.. the indicator lights up green, however no voltage when I test it. I took it apart and all of the cells appear to be fine. It look like the surface mount fuse on the small battery connection board by the terminals is blown. When I short out the fuse I have voltage at the terminals again. Is it possible that my problem is the fuse? if so what do I need to order, and how do I get it off of the board??
michael charach , That could be, I had one similar that had a bad connection instead that I mentioned in my repair update video. I was able to fix mine because the fuse was ok just bad connection to the solder pads. I have never seen a fuse like it before. You could possibly have more luck finding a flat Pak style fuse, but I have not had to yet. That's one great thing about buying some bad batteries from eBay etc. You end up with donor parts from some to fix others also!
you have a blown fuse inside of the battery. i have created a solder bridge in one of mine. it was hard to get the solder to stick, but so far so good.
just use a soldering iron and basically create a connection using a solder pool. not the best idea but it does work..
if you have a warranty still, call ego customer service. they will fix it for you for free.
I could not get the solder to stick, it just kept rolling off.
michael charach mine did also
It took a lot of tries. Start from both ends, then work towards the center
michael charach, Try to clean area really well with alcohol and use rosin flux( RA flux). It will help sometimes!
My pack is a March 2018 production date. ALL my batteries Don't have the ridge showing. All are producing except battery # 10. So my first question is-Have you ever seen all the batteries WITHOUT the ridges? Can it be a different style of battery/pack? What color wires are on cell # 10? Have you found a new replacement substitute for buying just one cell?
When you say ridges is there no sleeve at all or just that the sleeves have melted or transitioned at some point and it rounded instead of sharp edges? I have not had a pack that new to say for sure but all EGO packs I have worked on in the past have absolutely had sleeves. I have a BMS wiring video for the 2.5ah that may have the wire colors the same as the one you have. I did this video for a viewer asking for help putting one back together, hope it helps. As far as the cells go.
I have only used spare cells that I have tested good from non-working packs I have bought and acquired. Some viewers have posted the cells they think the packs have.
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
@@ThriftyToolShed I have not taking out the cells from the housing yet. I just noticed that none of my cells have the ridge that your pack shows so I was hoping that maybe the sleeves on mine are longer so no ridge is visible. I'm going to have to get brave and remove one cell to see if the sleeve is longer or melted. So if they are swollen and still producing voltage are they safe to use? Could one bad battery cause the rest of the cells to over charge? Thanks for the video reference and super quick response..I love when I find a true master repair person!!! Thanks for sharing!!!
Thanks for the compliment. I am not a master repair person, but we are all learning it together! I really hate seeing things have to be thrown out because they quit working. Consumer electronics are so bad about not having good information to make them repairable.
I have seen packs with the phase change sleeve material that has changed states or melted. I have always thought it is common at higher temperature to activate the sleeves to use the latent heat advantages for heat absorbstion. I have noticed though that most packs I work on that the bad cells are usually the ones with melted sleeves and the good or best cells have not changed. I don't think it hurts that the sleeve has activated nessecerily because it's supposed to keep damage from occuring to the cell, but on the other hand, cells that have gone too far and bad are also definitely going to have the sleeve melted. If that make sense? I am still learning these as well, that's how it seems to me so far...
I did check out the video on the 2.5 pack BMS but it states 6 batteries on the low side and the rest on the high side. I have 1-7 on the low side and 8-14 on the high side so I'm hoping that The Blue Wire on the high side in your video is still matches to battery # 10 on mine.
Yeah, it should be 1-7 and 8-14 like you said. Its been awhile on the video, I may have mistakenly said 6. I will try to remember to watch it over.
How many cells are in an Ego 4ah battery please?
Sorry, I actually do not have one so I am not sure. I am pretty sure it is double the amount that is in the 2.0. I would think 28 cells. Like most batteries it has a basic or smaller pack of 14s X 2ah and the double capacity 4ah should have another 14s cells parallel accross the 1st 14 series cells.
Thank you for reply. 👍
Are these just 18650 cells?
They are 18650 cells. It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
It's cheaper to just sell the tool used and buy a new one with a new battery and charger. That's why so many of the tools up for sale. If EGO would stop price gouging.
Ok!
I don't know what this is... I'm going to burn it without any PPE!
BRUH!
It smelled nice.....😁
When is someone going to start a little business repairing these things? Buy old ones off of e-bay and sell reconditioned ones. Is it not cost effective?
For me personally it's just time involved and the shipping cost. I enjoy fixing things and sharing what I learned to help someone else possibly, but would be easier if you lived in a area where people could just drop items off to you to repair, that way you would not have shipping cost and time?
@@ThriftyToolShed so do you repair ego batteries?
@@fredjones4818 I don't sorry. I wish I had time for all the requests. I try to repair some things and then share what I see with others..
i use a 80-100 watts very fast and Rosin...TU
❤️👍👍👍
My EGO battery pack won’t keep a full charge anymore. Dies within ten seconds. Help!
Could possibly be a cell bad and dropping out causing pack to shut down. If still in warranty period I would contact EGO for replacement!
are those sanyo 20700As or 18650s off some sort?
ISmellLikeEJuice, they seem to be a 18650. They made sure it had no evidence of make or part number though!
They are Samsung INR18650 wrapped in a layer of paraffin wax/carbon graphite. It cools the battery utilizing phase change.
I want to use my ego charger to charge other 14s batteries, I wonder what the function of the T & D terminals are and if I could use it with a foreign BMS. Not likely I suppose.
Yes, I would like to figure that out also. Usually the T terminal is for the NTC feedback monitoring the battery temp. but I have not had to get into the charger repair yet though.
I also suspected The T was thermistor, or temp. It won't charge a hot battery, and there is a cooling phase after the charge is complete. I have cycled the battery early during this cool down and it didn't power the fan back on so I think it is just on a timer. Pulling the T from the BMS is possible providing the range is correct, or it's fooled. What about the D though. A data link from chip to chip? What if I just plugged the EGO in and siphoned off the 58v with a jumper into my 14s e-bike battery I just built.
I know I'm cheap but I didn't get a charger because I'm like this thing is charging 52v 14s packs right here. Plus I can just use my bench supply and keep an eye on the BMS.
@@ipissed DO YOU THINK IT IS INR18650-25RSDI ??
you have a 3 year warranty.
Correct, if you watch the previous video you learn that because of that great warranty I was sent a replacement and allowed to "recycle" the faulty one. So it was a great reason to repair this one and get some more use out if it.
@@ThriftyToolShed Did you require the original receipt?
@@garyenwards1608
Yes, the receipt is required. If you register the product when you buy it you are good. You have to take a picture of your receipt when you register.
Ego battery is a scam. All of my 4 packs died the same day. All on 4 different chargers. Puzzled me a while. I find out that the TI battery management chips inside the pack not making charge after certain usage which is roughly about when the warranty running out. Almost $1000 worth of batteries are PoS now. PLEASE DON'T buy EGO
Noticed this same comment on another video. TROLL DETECTED.
really? i have mine for 5 years and it just died yesterday. I own the blower and weeder and they all work GREAT! Im here to see if I can repair them as to paying 200.00 for new batteries
I love mine, Ive had my egos, Mower, blower and weeder for 5 years and the mower battery just failed yesterday. I say BUY the EGO and save 1400.00 on gas in a 5 year period. If I do buy a new 200.00 battery I still save 1200.00 over gas
How do you equalize the cells?
I do have cell balancing boards I will use at times. Most of the time I use my bench PS set for CV and CC and balance all cells. If they are all out and individual as spare cells from donor packs I will test as mentioned in my Lithium battery FAQ#1 video and match cells as close as possible with the OPUS tester.