EGO 56V 5Ah Battery Repair (2P pack repair #1) FUSE
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- Опубліковано 13 жов 2024
- In this video we have a EGO 5Ah Battery on the bench. I purchased this item as a non-working for parts from ebay for around $55 USD. I just wanted to find out what the differences in the larger capacity battery may be and see what failed inside. It ended up being similar and it was a very fortunate easy fix. I will keep you up to date if the 30A fuse holds up under heavier loads in the near future. I may have to get creative with a 40 or 50A fuse replacement if I do have any issues. Hope it helps and Thanks for watching!
update 4-14-2020: I have not had any issues with the 30A fuse in any tool I have. it's been holding up well!
*update 8-6-20: I ended up soldering in a 40A metal fuse links in this pack as a permanent fix and have not had any issues!
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Dude, awesome! Thanks for posting this. It's always interesting to see how a company built something and the simple fixes to what would otherwise be expensive replacements.
Thanks for the video on how to disassemble the 56V 5Ah battery. Mine is used for the mower and wouldn't go through the charge cycle with the fan starting. Opened it up and everything looked OK. Started cleaning the contacts with emery paper and some film came out. Cleaned the 4 contacts best I could by sliding the emery paper between the contacts. Also, used a que-tip and rubbing alcohol on the charger contacts. Put it onto the charger and the fan started and its charging again. Not the first time li-ion batteries gave me trouble from the charging contacts. As the unit gets older may need to be cleaned more frequently.
Thank you for helping me fix a 4Ah ego battery with this technique. I had a blown fuse and replaced with a 30A automotive.
Awesome job. Just as a reminder the 30A may not hold up for all loads. The mower or chainsaw for example could possibly demand more than the 30A can stand in certain situations. Mine held up just fine until I got in a 40A fuse link and soldered in place. Thanks for sharing!
I like to say TY I have and EGO 56V and by watching your video I fix it. It was blinking red and found it was a dirty contacts. TY again great information. I'm 67 years old and always wanted to work on electronics and your video give me that insight.
Awesome job. Thanks for your comment!
Thanks for the video. Nice to have the disassembly explained. My one year old 5ah battery had intermittent faults where the red light would come on after around 10 minutes of mowing. Letting it cool for 5 minutes gave me another 10 minutes of mowing. Turned out to be a scorched contact on the plus terminal inside the battery . Upon disassembly I noticed that the plastic around this contact had some carbon soot, making the diagnosis a bit more obvious. Anyway, cleaning up the contacts (as Pete says below) did the trick.
Thanks for sharing. Several people have mentioned connection issues. I have had no connection issues on any of mine as of this time. This is good information.
So when you say "a scorched contact" do you mean a cold solder point or what? This is what my new battery did after 3 uses. And reading the comments on multiple sites, most say the customer service with EGO is very poor.
@@coloradostrong Here is an update the battery problem that I had with the scorched contact (this is one of the external contacts that connects the battery to the mower that must have heated up, pitted and left black soot on the contact's surface). I still have the defective battery but I finally found a way to contact the UK division of EGO directly and they replaced my 5ah battery with a 7.5ah battery under warranty at no charge. The mower has been running fine ever since. If you registered your battery with EGO when you bought it they maybe your best course of action is to pursue a warranty claim?
@@invisi-bill Thank you for the reply. Many users of this product complain of the battery going to a red light status, like it is overheating. Upon a closer examination of my barely used battery (7.5 amp), I notice there is grease on all of the contacts. Grease and dirt make terrible electrical connections. This is factory grease. It was on all of my chargers, coming from the battery terminals, and my other batteries had the same problem also. I took every battery apart, and used brake cleaner and carb cleaner spray to remove the nasty grease that was black from the dirt and debris. I took care to not let it run onto the surface mount electronics. I can say with confidence that the contacts being entirely crud filled with some thick factory grease was the problem, causing the equipment to turn off, as though the battery was overheated. Every piece of equipment I own from EGO had grease on it.
Thanks internet buddy. Had the same issue. Got my 7.5 ah battery back to new.
Thanks for the video. Took apart my 5A 56v battery that would not charge. On the charger it was just solid red. Had 46v on the battery. Checked the contacts looked black. Took out the contact board so I could get to clean them better. Filed down a wooden paddle (lolly pop stick) put some alcohol on it and cleaned those puppies right up. The stick turned black as. Put the pack together and PTL we got it charging. Thanks for your help.
Just did the fuse replacement with a 30amp automobile fuse just like in the video. Worked like a charm!
Just remember it may be more temporary. I put a 40A fuse link in for a more permanent repair. These packs can easily hit more than 30A for a short duration.
Thanks for sharing!
@@ThriftyToolShed Would I expect that if the 30amp fuse blows in the battery, then the same behavior as before will start to happen again?
@@Guitrum
Absolutely could, but just know some of the blowers can pull up to 30A on turbo believe it or not! The mowers I have seen have a 40A fuse.
I had repaired a 1st gen 2.5ah all cells out of service. Replaced all cells, spot welded👌. Green led flashes once each second, cells discharging. Replaced Mjd117 on bms, now have a fully functioning 2.6ah with all new cells & nickel strips (I used 0.2mm pure nickel) 👍 A 4ah 1st gen came back to life after finding corrosion on a bms connector & plug. 👍
Watching your videos certainly helped accomplish this. So thank you for your time & effort uploading your videos/sharing your findings. Much appreciated.
I won't be selling any packs, I'll be using them myself & seeing how long my repairs last. 🙄
I only have 2 more packs to work on. Both 1st gen 4.0ah, with different bms in each. One pack was subject to the owner "dropping" it on the ground until it worked. Which led to a connector breaking away from its solder. New connector might solve that. While I was waiting for said connector I decided to start work on the other 4ah. All cells dead, no longer in service. 28 new 2600mah cells later & all new spot welded nickel, I now have a 5.2ah battery. 😁
I had charge balanced each cell & tested the battery, worked perfect. 👍 Looooong runtime.
Placing in either standard or rapid charger results in them both reporting the battery is already fully charged. It isn't. Couldn't swap out the BMS from other 4ah, different connectors.
1st gen 2.5ah (now 2.6ah) I repaired had the same connections, so swapped that in, both chargers charge battery properly now, rapid charger shows correct charging levels progress. Rapid charger gets to 100% & then shows one solid red led (over temp, which it isn't) & I'm suspecting that has something to do with the 2.5ah bms having different (lack of?) circuit/software for the 4ah temp sensors.
So can I assume the 4ah BMS is at fault? Everything about it works except charging. After only a few seconds the charger shows battery full.
Any common parts that fail causing this situation?. Anything I can test?.
Or do I need to wait for a donor bms 😒
Awesome job on your batteries! Thanks for your kind remarks and I am so glad the videos were helpful. It does seem like the BMS on the 4AH to me. The BMS seems to believe one or more cell groups is charged enough to be fully charged. All I would know is to check around for anything obvious around the cell monitoring area of the board. I have not worked on that exact issue yet. I have very little experience with the newer 3rd Gen packs with the fuel gauge. That's the only draw back to working hard to learn about the EGO platform early on. I had success on many battery packs and shared as we went on the journey of troubleshooting. I was fortunate enough to have several spare batteries and able to keep repairing as needed. The down side is I don't have a reason to buy the newer generation so I am falling behind on those differences in those boards of course. I really do like the segmented fuel gauge LEDs though....
Thanks so much for sharing!
@@ThriftyToolShed I haven't worked on any fuel gauge type yet either. Guess I'll have a 5.2ah sitting on the shelf (was a 4ah non fuel cell type, now with 2600mah cells & 5.2ah capacity) until I can procure a bms for it. I'm sure I'll find one.
Gotcha, it was the original 1st Gen 4ah pack. I was thinking it was the newer 3rd Gen. Since they have come out with the 4ah again...
Thanks for the video, I have a 4.0 amp hour battery and it had the exact same symptoms. Taking it apart I couldn't find any remnants of a fuse, maybe at never had one and the board was defective from the beginning. I got this battery 2+ yrs ago as part of an open box from Home Depot with my chainsaw. I don't think it even went with that chainsaw because he had to find the battery over to the side, that is why I didn't try to warranty through Ego, and it was marked "as is" from Home Depot. Soldered in a fuse an it now works.
Great job. Always a great feeling giving new life to a nice tool or equipment! Sounds like you may have saved some money on the open box as well!👍
That's a store marking (as is). Never needed to try with ego but have done so with other items. Never run into a company that wouldn't honor warranty if for no other reason than to make me happy.
Thanks for the video, I also cleaned the contacts ( 2000 sandpaper ) and it's going way better, I've never leaf blown the section without running out of power & after cleaning the contacts it never skipped a beat.
Can you say more about what contacts you cleaned with sandpaper?
I got the red flash. Watched this, disassembled completely,still 53v. cleaned the contacts and now have green. Thumbs up.
The new ones still go bad... after 7 uses. Customer service have been useless.. Thank you for the video, I may be able to salvage it.
I had the same issue with my 5 amp battery, It died in 4 weeks. But customer service is helpful and is sending me a new battery
I've got 1 7.5, 1 2.5, and 3 5.0 (2 older, 1 newer) varying from 5 years old to 3 years with no real issues yet. The only thing the 7.5 goes in is the mower. That's my oldest battery. This year through I did notice a decrease in life though at the start of the season.
WARNING: When pulling apart the end with the power button, be careful to do this gently. Mine would not budge, then let loose, pulled off some of the wires which subsequently shorted and now I have a bit more complicated project on my hands.
Absolutely, that is mentioned in a few videos and many comments. Some are stuck a little more than others at times.
Super helpful. I have the same fuse out on my 5 Ah. Very clever use of the car fuse.
Thanks for this video! All i could find was a 30amp fuse for my mower, hoping it'll hold up! For the first time in a year... My battery is finally charging. I am so happy.
Excellent video man thank you for doing this. I have 4 batteries for 3 different devices that are still under warranty one which is giving me errors and charging issues. I'm looking forward to whatever EGO is going to do for me but as soon as I'm out of warranty on these expensive things I'm going to be coming back to this video! My little DIY solder gun won't be up to the task tho so I guess I'll need an upgrade! Thanks again!
Did EGO replace your battery under warranty? Wandering how long did it take them to send you new one?
@@damirka83 things got out of hand and I dropped the ball. I was just in my shed this past weekend and kicked myself in the butt that I've got to get in touch with ego about this.
@@damirka83 I've had two fail in the last 3 weeks. I called them and registered them over the phone. They did a minute or so of troubleshooting and then sent me new ones. They arrived within a week. Very easy to deal with.
I'll be blunt.
I'm disgusted by this brand. I bought 2 blowers and a trimmer last summer 2021. In total, we have 2 x 5.0AH batteries and 1 2.5AH battery. (56v)
This being the 2nd summer - both of the 5.0AH batteries are having great difficulty charging, or even holding the charge.
You place it on the charger and not more than 10 minutes later, it stops charging. Sometimes, of the 5 flashing bars - it will drop right back down to 2 bars, after supposedly charging higher than that. I have to babysit the battery/charger by coming back every 10 minutes or so, to reseat the battery to begin charging again.
They are really expensive products and I haven't used them that much at all. We're talking maybe every other weekend for 1/2 hr. to 45 minutes per use.
Disappointed would be an understatement. I'm going through warranty replacement.
@@CH-jq7xg Good to hear - I'm going through warranty as well. I already registered everything last summer 2021, so everything should be on file.
Wish I had your tech skills and logical calm thinking brain sir!
Thank you so much for your kind comment! I have always liked sharing what we learn as we go because if I can do it so can anyone else who desires to! I wish I could show even more detail in most videos. I never dreamed how hard it would be to cut a video down so it's not super long and boring and still keep in the important parts!
This is a great video and very helpful. I’m gonna try this fix.
I just did a fix on the two soldered in fuses on the power distribution board the SNT 2100 snowblower, by installing replaceable fuses. I had to go to MAXI fuses in order to do 60 amps. Might the battery fuse need to be 60 amps also?
Thank you for posting this. I have two dead batteries I picked up free in the recycle bin at work and will see if they failed in the same way.
Did they fail in the same way?
@@Tonisuperfly Nope. They both just had a weak cell presumably from sitting for years un-used? I was able to charge them on my bench and the batteries work ok now. They're not the strongest of the batteries I have but are useable.
Thank you for these videos, I'm gonna watch them to try to diagnose my Ego battery (it's an intermittent fault).
If you don't have small enough 40 A fuses, you might solder two 20 A fuses in parallel...
Wow! Just Wow man. What a video! Deep bow for your time and effort! Keep doing the good work.
Thanks for your kind comment!
Took apart a brand new made in July 2024 2800T 5AH battery and the trace is 4.2mm wide exactly. It is not a "part" just copper trace on the board itself at that width.
I just mentioned that in a EGO 5Ah pack repair last week that I had the older style here, but as shared in the Facebook group On The Bench some newer ones had the trace right on the main PCB and viewers share photos there as well. It's also interesting how the larger like 10Ah packs have multiples of 60A SMD fuses that can self activate if a pack problem is detected. It's wild. Thanks for sharing!
Great video i wish i had the knowledge and understanding you have to be able to make these repairs should i ever need to.
LOVE THIS CHANNEL. New Subscriber in Austin Texas! Currently looking to replace a Mod# BA2240 Ego battery (56V, 4.0 AH) that turned my mower into a lonely sculpture. Seems 4.0 AH was discontinued. Grr. Looking at "investing" $250 in a 5.0 AH ($250 for A BATTERY!)
Now, my tinker heart wants to crack open my old 4.0 AH and see if it only needs a $2 fuse!!!! I know soldering. And the old battery was heading to a recycling bin, anyway. Nothing to lose and $245 to save! YES. I will be cautious. Daddy taught me well. I will plan to touch-back with a debrief for you. --- Rock on!
Yes, safety first always, then lots of fun. Best of luck to ya!
Did you ever get around to experimenting on the 4.0amp battery to see if you can get it going again?
I just took apart a 2.5Ah Ego battery to troubleshoot why it isn't working... And the end cap was way more stubborn coming off than what you show in the videos. And when it did release the 6 small wires pulled out of the connector in the cap. You might consider including a warning about this. My pack is done now for sure. No way I can restore that connector.
I do have more recent videos such as 4ah pack repair videos that I mention that already. If I only knew how to get all of hours of video to include everything and still be only 10-20 minutes long I would have alot more subscribers for sure! I can't go back and change a 3 year old video but I do have newer ones that I try hard to fill in gaps on. Hate you had the issue, thanks for sharing the information.
Thanks for your videos. I have many EGO power tools and a 2000w power station with four 7.5ah battery. I recently started using one of my 7.5ah battery to power my custom electric recumbent trike. This EGO 7.5ah battery performs better than my 48v ebike battery. I’m glad u do tear downs on these packs. It gives me clues on what these batteries can handle. Keep sharing and posting your videos. They really help a lot.
Awesome! Thanks so much for your comment!
I have the nemisis also with 8 7.5s and just found 2 had a yellow bar in the charge level and showed 30 and 34 % and wouldnt reset or charge. Any ideas
Do you do repairs on other peoples batteries, o do you just do it for video purposes? I have 2.5 and a 5ah that are bad and would like to try to get them repaired.
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
good job, ain't it great when you can make broken things work again! Is advice about the danger of accidentally shorting these batteries a good idea?
It is a great feeling indeed. I am not sure if you are referring to shorting the packs together like when people boost packs (Not accidential though) or the cells themselves individually shorted together. Either way, I have a video called "Lithium Battery FAQ#1" that I have pointed to many times to help with frequently asked questions and I also have many videos mentioning how it's not a good idea to short packs to each other also. Thanks for your kind comment!
I have to vent, and then I'll post a question separately. :) So, I have had my mower for 4 years. This spring, I ran my mover with my 7.5 Ah battery once, and there was absolutely no trouble. The very next time I used the mower, it ran for about 10 or 15 seconds before stopping. If I popped open the lid, removed and reseated the battery, it ran briefly again before stopping. Popping it on the fast charger indicated the battery was charged. After trying some tricks suggested by the eGo community, it still doesn't work. You would think after four years, eGo would have either a repair service or some sort of refurbishing/core exchange program. People like me who don't know how to work with electronics (especially how to use a multimeter) are at a loss. $350 to replace such a battery is disappointing, and not being able to get it repaired by eGo is equally disappointing. All they tell me is to turn the pack in to a recycling center that accepts Li-ion batteries. I suppose buying a new pack works out to $85 a year plus the cost of charging versus paying for gasoline, having to prep the mower for fall storage, and hoping you can restart the mower the following spring. Paying $350 in one fell swoop takes my breath away, though.
Yeah, it is alot of money. Sorry you are having issues. I hope to get at least 8 years out of my packs. I have only had the one failure and within warranty and EGO was really good about that one. I was able to keep and repair it, that was one of my first EGO videos. I will not be going back to gas at this point, but yes if I lost a big pack it would be painful.
Hopefully you will have luck getting it back going!
What irks me the most is the 7.5ah is $350-400 to replace, you can get the whole mower + 5ah for that price, but worse, you can get a brand new backpack blower with that 7.5ah battery for $300 ($50 cheaper), while the backpack blower sans battery is $200.
I really enjoy this mower when it's working properly, but it really should last more than 4 years (or ~200 hours)
DON'T understand ANY of this electrical stuff BUT I'm digging how you used a auto fuse to fix it, I would think it would be beneficial to of soldered one of those auto fuse holders to the terminals & located the actual fuse OUTSIDE the case for future replacement of the fuses when they blow
Yes, I almost did that with a fuse holder and drilled hole to route outside. I instead used a fuse link to more permanently fix it. I later soldered on the 40A metal fuse link strip for 2 reasons: The main reason is that the automotive fuse even though it worked well temporary it was not rated for 60V. The other reason is 30A may not be enough for some heavier loads such as mower or chainsaw. It did fine with weed trimmers and blowers though.
Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed 😳💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕💕
Wonderful job on the video! I have this same exact problem but with the never version of the 5.0Ah. I'm getting a new one sent since it's only a month old but I'd like to try and fix the broken one. What would you suggest as a more 'permanent' fix? A 30amp strip link fuse? The blown PCB fuse on the newer battery looks slightly different. Wish I could post a picture. The surge also took out the Powerhead for the multi-tool. I'm going to take that apart next to see if there is something replaceable inside.
This link is similar to the ones I used on mine. They are about the same price if you buy 1 or 10! I had to trim them up a bend them and once soldered in I have a 40A link.
www.ebay.com/itm/Strip-Link-Fuse-Auto-30A-40A-50A-60A-80A-100A-/265083948597?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
@@ThriftyToolShed interestingly, the power head that also blew at the same time has a 50A ceramic fuse that I’m trying to find now and hopefully replace. You’ve given me confidence! Back to the battery, the gap left by the blown fuse is only a few millimeters. Looks like a copper strip with a small gap in between. How would you approach that? It looks slightly different from above. Maybe I didn’t fry the entire piece of metal.
I have a video on the 14" chainsaw controller repair. It blew the 30A fuse on the small controller in it and it blew due to shorted transistors in the controller. I got 2 of these type controllers working out of 5 I worked on. Sometimes it's more issues than Mosfets and fuse. The power head is different, I wish you luck. The battery seems different than mine. Mine simply had a pcb type fuse and the trace had blown away.
I have used the link from 50a fuse, just cracked the case and retrieved the fusible metal and soldered it in.
Excellent video, learned a lot! When the battery is in the tool, do the center terminals of the 4-terminal interface have any function, or is it just the +/- terminals supplying power that are active? I have a Greenworks 60v mower, but I suspect the interfaces are similar. Thanks Thrifty Tool Shed!
The tools usually get the D-terminal and the + and - on the EGO tools and the charger usually gets all four of I remember correctly. I did a couple quick videos about the T-terminal and the D- terminal due to the number of questions surrounding the topic. I shared what little I had found out about it. Thanks for your comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed Looked up your prior videos on the T and D terminals, very useful. I have Ryobi tools that use only the +/- terminals to supply power to the tool. The pack will shut off if it overheats or falls below threshold voltage, so it appears the smarts are built into the pack. Thanks for making great videos!
@@joelk9603
Yes the Ryobi 18V and the 40V have the Mosfets in the pack that will cut the power from the cells. I assume Ryobi likes doing that so that many of the tool only prices can be kept really low? Ryobi high capacity packs are really pricey to me though?
@@ThriftyToolShed Since the price for a 60V/30A N-Channel MOSFET is less than a dollar in quantity, that should not add too much to the price of a battery pack or reduce the cost of the tool by much. It would also simplify the battery/tool interface by keeping the overcurrent shutoff components in the replaceable battery pack.
Very true, I believe they over size these mosfet to like 200A if I remember correctly to keep them from being an issue/problem. Still I see way more Ryobi packs in general with issues due to the BMS than any other manufacturers such as DeWalt , Milwaukee or Makita that just send the signal for the tool to shut down. Just something I noticed since the li-ions came out.
Great video 👍 is that fuse a common failure point with these batteries?
It's very rare to me. I tend to see it when people use the packs with things other than EGO equipment. It's popular to use them for ebikes etc.
Great video. If you have to replace any of the cells, what brand does Ego and you use?
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
I get asked this over and over I have a video discussing some of this.
ua-cam.com/video/f9SOPVEqgkw/v-deo.html
@@ThriftyToolShed thank you!
Great video! I just bought the pole saw attatchmet for my powerhead. I was using it to cut back some arborvitaes & think i knicked my wire fence. The powerhead abruptly stopped & after i checked to make sure nothing was bound up, it wouldnt do anything. Full charge, chain on saw spins, just no go in the powerhead. Does this sound like something that may have blown the fuse in the battery & why my powerhead isnt working? I dont have another battery to test out the tool & need to get the right bit for those screws. I was just hoping to not spend $ on a battery, especially if thats not the problem, whole setup (minus pole saw) is only a year old, but i cannot for the life of me find my receipt. Thanks for this vid, great work 👍
It could be a fuse in the pack for sure. The best way to check (since you don't have another one to verify) is to put a multi-meter on the packs + & - terminals and see if you have voltage there. It should be around 56V depending on charge. If the fuse is blown it will not read any voltage. Hope it helps and thanks for your kind comment!
@@ThriftyToolShed yea I went to do that, but my cheap voltmeter prongs aren't long enough to reach the batteries +/- terminals in/on the pack. I'll figure that out or borrow my buddies meter right up the road, country living ftw 😁 Thanks for the reply, I'll start with testing that, definitely subscribing to your channel & have youreself a great day! 👍
Great vid, I just got an Ego there a few weeks back and the battery won't charge more than 2-3 bars. Gonna mow the lawn a few more times before I call them about it and get a replacement.
BTW I cant tell are they 11850s with something wrapped around them or something else. Any idea?
OLT The fuse should be independent of the total amp-hour rating since it deals with spikes in current..
The cells are 18650 cells with a phase change sleeve.
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 4 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
@@ThriftyToolShed Yes I meant 18650. I think 11850 is a directory enquires phone number where I'm from lol. That should make it trivial to fix the battery down the line. I've never heard of phase change sleeves so I'll have to do a bit of googling. Thanks for the reply.
Great Video very informative. Have you ever had trouble with the low end standard charger base. I am not getting any charging action on charger
Sorry, I have not. I would look over the electrolytics for any physically leaky or swollen. Most SMPS type chargers have a fuse, relay, and around half a dozen electrolytics. Other than that, I am not sure. I have 3 of these standard chargers, but mostly use the fast charger.
Thanks so much for posting. Great work on making a clear, well-paced video. Very helpful.
Very nicely done sir!
I appreciate the informative video!
I have a 2.5ah battery that when put in the charger, on the battery blinks Green, then Red, Orange, Green, Red. There is 56v on the outside connector, and 56 in the cells. Seen this? EGO sent me a warranty replacement by the way, great support and now hopefully i can make a backup battery. Or it's going on ebay for you to buy for parts :)
Well the packs do cycle through the red, orange,green led while it is charging, that is normal for my Gen2 packs. Are you saying that it just goes through and then stays red? How does it perform in a tool?
@@ThriftyToolShed It runs for full OK about 30 seconds in the blower, then flashes red, then turns off. I removed and reinstalled and it did the same thing for another 30 seconds. I put in the charger and it turned on the fan, blinked green on the charger for a few minutes, then turned full green (charged).
It sounds like one of the cells is dropping out. The low voltage cut out for cell protection at 2.7V or so. It could really be a bad cell and could be a loose connection or other issue with the BMS board. I have had pack with a bad cell drop off quick like that flashing red.
I ORIGINALLY POSTED THIS ONE YEAR AGO. I AM REPOSTING IT IN CASE ANYONE HASN'T TRIED,
"THE BANG TRICK WORKED .SO glad I saw the comments about banging the battery from about a foot off the ground and dropping it. IT WORKED I had THREE bad batteries. ALL THREE have been working GREAT since May and I recharge and use the OFTEN. HOLY GUACAMOLE. Those three bad ones were here for over a year. I bought two news ones for 200 bucks a piece but something told me NOT to throw those bad ones out. THREE bad batteries now working PERFECTLY for five months with CONSTANT charging. I have the lawn mower, leaf blower and snow blower and I use the blower daily and the lawn mower once per week. HUGE area. SO glad I was the comments about BANGING the batteries. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU"
If you were going to recommend a brand to buy base on the battery quality, what brand would you recommend for yard tools? We have a Ryobi 40 volt weed eater. It came with a 2.5 and has worked well, but seeing bad reviews on the batteries with the same tools post pandemic.
I would absolutely go with EGO. I really haven't had many issues with the batteries. Really only one of my batteries failed that I bought new. The warranty replaced that one and EGO told me to keep the old one and recycle it. I ended up learning how to fix it and it started some videos on these and then I bought some broken ones (and some were sent in for us to look at on the bench just to help the channel and help us learn). So after much learning and working on the EGO I have really appreciated the build quality in these and I really like all my EGO tools. I have blowers, string trimmers , hedge trimmers, edgers, push mowers, pole saw and even chainsaws. I enjoy all the power of the tools and the batteries are truly leaps ahead of Ryobi 40V and Kobalt packs from my experience. I think Green works platform may be the only one really close to EGO at this point. I don't have any myself to say for certain. All high density packs are going to give issues eventually, I typically keep the size of mine 5AH and below. 5AH is my go to battery size. It's large enough to last even in the blowers, but still not terribly heavy. The 7.5AH and above are not only super heavy they have so much more potential for failure with even more added cells in the pack. The 2.5AH has 14 cells in series (14S). The 5.0AH has 28 cells and the 7.5AH has 42 cells. It's a 3P so 3 sets of the 14S cells in parallel. Keep in mind the best way to buy batteries is in the tool combos. So it's much better to buy most tools you want with the battery included since you will usually want more batteries over time. The tool only price can look attractive from these big companies, but it's a much better deal in the long run to get the pack included Usually. Hope you found this helpful and best of luck with what even you buy!
I have the exact same battery and I have 4 acres on my 21 inch ego push mower has been amazing but after about two years I’m running it hard. The battery started having trouble charging and then when it was show it was fully charged I’d put it in the mower and could run maybe 10 minutes and then it was giving me the flashing red. And I love the video except I’m new to taking these batteries apart. My dad showed me how to do a lot but one thing I don’t know is what to set the meter on when testing the battery. so I went to test mine. I’m thinking it’s on the right setting but it’s sparked pretty good when I unscrewed that top piece for the fuses. There was a piece of grass dry dead grass that was in there. Please let me know what setting the meter should be onwhen testing different things on the battery. And since it’s parked like that, do you think that I fried it?
I am not sure exactly what you mean by "unscrewed the top piece for the fuse"? If you are talking about taking the connector block off the fuse then where did it spark? What arced to what? I always have my meter on Volts DC while testing the battery voltage. That is typically indicated with a V followed by a solid line with a dashed line parallel with it. Some meters may simply show it as VDC. You will see my meter in that mode testing voltage in many videos.
Hmmm, I'm betting a PTC resettable fuse could work just as well as a permanent fix. The math has me a bit stumped, though. If a 5Ahr battery drives a mower 1 hour, what's the need for a 30 amp fuse? Maybe a 7.5 amp could handle it just fine. I'm just wondering where the thought for a 30 amp fuse came from especially in light of the fact you mention that you would have preferred a 40 amp fuse.
The 5Ah pack will run the mower roughly 30 mins for me depending on load. The load is what is stumping you here. The load changes or varies depending on the thickness and length of grass, cut height the speed that you push it, type of blade used, bagging or mulching etc. We can easily run the mower at around 8-10 amps while lightly cutting and going slow and I can easily push the mower in thick grass and pull over 25 amps. We also have a 40A fuse in the mower because they have to account for heavy inrush current in some situations.
Hi. Really liked your video.
I have a 7.5 Amp hour ego battery. Dead as a door Nile. Was wondering if you would be interested in fixing it for me.
What would you charge? Very interested in having it working again.
Hi, thanks for your kind comment!
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in an Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
Your video is very informational!!
I have a question, how would i wire this Nexus Ego battery up for pass-through charging? or direct charging, the wiring schematic?
thank you.
Thanks for your kind comment! I am not exactly sure what you are asking as far as the charging goes. Are you referring to Nexus power station or Nexus escape?
@@ThriftyToolShed not exactly, basically looing to charge it while discharging it. i want to charge it directly while using it so the power is sustained and stays charged, sorta like what this guy did: ua-cam.com/video/gXusz-2bRE4/v-deo.html
but he wont share how to wire it up in the battery for pass-through charging.
I’m sorry if this is in your links but I couldn’t seem to find it, but what are the silicone pieces you used to cover the new fuse? Any info is greatly appreciated.
I used several layers of Kapton tape as an extra layer over the fuse.
amzn.to/44O1fqW
Thanks for a great video. You reminded me of my old copier technician, with the use of captan tape. You are gifted and thorough, much respect. Liked and subbed.
$50 for a broke battery? I have lots of broken stuff. What else are you looking for?
lol
I will take 10 of these broke 5ah EGO batteries!
Hey, anything else worth $219 new that a 50 cent fuse fixes, LOL!
@@ThriftyToolShed How lucky were you that this was all you needed to fix? I need a working battery and mine doesn't charge. Happened overnight.
Hate to hear that. Is it still under warranty? EGO has been really good about the warranty so far....
I hope some of the videos of the EGO packs helps others, they are so expensive but really nice and I only hope it can help keep the packs around a little longer!
Great video. Do you know where to purchase a replacement BMS for EGO 56 Volt 5Ah battery pack?
I don't. I have tried to get some suppliers and was even going to look into getting some custom made. Several viewers mentioned they were working on it already and I don't want to get so many out there that they can't sell and someone gets stuck with them and the costs of buying a bulk order of them. I am waiting to see if others come through. One viewer has even shared the file on my FB group of the board connection points. It's a very handy layout. He's got a really good start on it.
Thanks for your kind comment!
Thanks for the video, I have the exact same problem with my ego battery, may I know where you get the 40A metal fuse that you end up using? link?
I used one similar to this and cut it down and soldered it with a larger 200W soldering iron.
www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pieces-Strip-Fuse-Link-40A-MERCEDES-AUDI-VW-BMW-40-Amp-Glow-Plug-Diesel-/313297316433?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l6249&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you so much!
I have a 4A battery that this same trace burned open on. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the repair videos.... My daughter has everything Ego, we visited her this summer in Idaho, I live in TX. I brought back with me a 5.0ah and a spare charger that I said I could fix the battery for her. The battery light glows green when pushed. The battery has 57 vdc measured at the +/- contacts, when the battery is inserted into the charger the battery button goes orange for a few seconds and then the charger says it is fully charged. I do not have means to discharge the pack, I can order a 25 ohm 100w resistor if needed. The pack is 6 yrs old and If I do find a parallel pair that is low would you recommend just changing those or changing all of them. If so what brand of 18650 would you recommend , 2.5ah * 28
Hi,
The voltage seems really good. I would absolutely measure individual cells groups and make sure one or more is not low just as you stated. As far as changing all the cells, that is typically the best route to go for sure. If all the other cells test well you may be ok with replacement of just the bad ones. I always feel like the capacity will be compromised unless you have a really good way to test all cells in regard to how equal in capacity they are. I have had good luck with the cells I buy from 18650 battery store. I will say as far as the pack light turning orange that is usually a BMS or Thermistor issue from my experience, does it do the same thing when inserted into a tool?
These are close or similar cells...
www.18650batterystore.com/products/samsung-25r-18650
@@ThriftyToolShed I don't have a tool here to test. When inserted into the charger the battery light only turns orange for a second or or two.
Hi, I very much appreciate your videos. I have a couple nonfunctional batteries, they are fully charged, the light is solid green when you push the power button but then flashes yellow before cutting off. When you try to use them they only work for a second then cut off and flashes yellow. What's your thoughts on this issue, any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
I am replying from memory here, but I believe the orange flash is either a overload situation or a temperature issue. I assume you have already checked for mechanical bind etc. on your mower or tool of choice? Maybe you have even verified other batteries will run the tool just fine? If that is the case, it seems as the pack could have a issue with one of the thermistors (ntc) the pack has 3 of them that I know of. One of the ntcs is on the BMS board next to the battery monitor connector and each of the bank of 7 cells in each pack half has a ntc on them for temp monitoring. I think you can test the ntc at the BMS by way of the T terminal on the pack. Compare ohm reading with known good pack with the faulty one. I can give you more details when I get home but I am thinking at ambient of around 70F maybe negative terminal to T terminal measures around 10K-14K? I would check a known good pack to double check! Best of luck!
Thanks for your comment!
Great video! Thank you for much for all the upload. I have similar issue. My battery measured about 10 ohms from negative to T. The negative to positive is reading about 46V. I need to look at other of your videos on replacing the thermistor. What do you think is going on with my battery? I’m not sure if the original poster has this issue solved.
Thanks for your kind comment. T to - Should around 10K ohms at room temp. And for example 90⁰F outdoors it might read 6K and 50⁰F it might read 15K etc. It should not read 10 ohms. It is more NTC thermistors inside of the pack as well that feedback to board for each half and also temp. Monitoring board in the middle of the 2 pack halves for larger packs. Sometimes a bad connection on those boards can cause an issue. I think the 1st gen packs had push on connectors to the boards and balancing connections.
@@ThriftyToolShed I’ve measured the negative to T again and it is 10k. I’ve read the measurements incorrectly with the analog meter.
I’ve also measured each individual cell and all cells measured about 3.3v each. I guess that’s still ok. Do you think it’s still one of the thermistor? BTW, I could no find a video of your that showed the thermistor troubleshooting and replacement. Would you please point me to that?
Thanks again.
Yes, your cells seem good then. Your NTC on the BMS board checks well. It is still one NTC on both halves of the pack on the bottom side and those feed back to the BMS top connectors usually with small black wires as I mentioned a little bit on my very first BMS repair video.ua-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/v-deo.html
It is also temp. Monitoring boards in the center of the pack on 5ah packs and above that I mentioned in the 5ah pack blinking orange repair. ua-cam.com/video/6WBsDQ4cMpA/v-deo.html
Great video, due you know what fuse they recommend in the 7.5 AH battery mine was in a flood.
I have shared on here in several comments that I used 50A fuse links and soldered them in. There is no direct replacement that I know of. I bought the longer links and cut them down and soldered them in place. I needed the 200w iron, alot of mass to hear up to unsolder and resolder.
Something similar to these...
www.ebay.com/itm/Strip-Link-Fuse-Auto-30A-40A-50A-60A-80A-100A-/263085698399?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
It's sad when manufacturers solder fuses to boards. 99.9% of people toss them instead of replacing which definitely takes some skill. Why not a user replaceable fuse and slot. I'd even go with a proprietary size and shape to insure correct voltage, etc.
I had the same problem years ago on a Black and Decker air station. Glass fuse was soldered to the circuit board and it failed in the first few uses. I replaced it with a fuse holder I could access from the side of the unit near the switch. Hasn't failed since!
PSA, friends don't let friends buy B&D tools.
I got a laptop for $5 like this. Pulled it apart and discovered the fuse has blown. 😎
The 5 amp battery seems to have been discontinued here in Australia. I wonder if they have a reliability issue? I've been looking at one as a replacement for my 2.5 amp unit.
That's interesting. I have not heard of any issues on that level.
I have a 7.5 ah that when on the charger the charger says it is 100%. The battery off the charger only lights 2of5, and gives me the equivalent of run time. Any idea what the issue could be?
Thank you for spreading the knowledge!
I have an interesting scenario for you. I know you don’t have much experience with the 7.5 batteries but figured I’d run it by you incase I missed anything. The BMS shows it’s low battery (one red led segment) but when hooked up to the charger it blinks fully charged and doesn’t charge the battery. I measured voltage at + and - terminals and it’s giving me 55V. Any ideas? Thanks again for the awesome videos!
Thanks for your kind comment! I actually still do not have the newer packs with the segmented gauge. for that reason I can't say for sure. I would most likely lean toward checking voltages across all 14 cell sets and make sure one of them is not low. It could possibly be one cell set causing this and why it still shows 55V. Possible to have 13 sets that are close to fully charged and one that is so low the BMS is showing an error. Wish I could tell you more, but I have so many original and repaired packs now that I have no reason to spend money on the newer packs, but I do love that fuel gauge! Best of luck to ya?
@@ThriftyToolShed awesome! I’ll take it apart and let you know if I come across the solution. Thanks again!
An SMD mount fuse would probably mount on the pads just fine and take up less space. You would just have to pull the specs to make sure the length, would allow the end caps to make enough contact with the solder pads.
Yes, I have bought a couple now. The Little fuse 40A. They are not cheap though.
@@ThriftyToolShed Try checking into some of the other brands. When going through Mouser and Digikey's inventory, I noticed the Bel Fuse brand was cheaper. Digikey has the Bel Fuse 0678H9400-02
(40A 125VDC) for 1.36 each. You could take that part number and run it through a Google search as well.
I'm having an issue with my 5 and 7.5 ah batteries, and I didn't realize it was probably the batteries until today when I slipped in a 2.5ah to finish mowing. Basically, they won't trigger the mower to go change speed/gear when load changes (either low or high), they run at "medium" all the time, and if I hit thick grass, they blink yellow and shut-off. I rarely use the mower now that I've moved to a large lot and bought a riding mower, but I still use it to mow a drainage ditch that is too steep for the rider. Really would rather not get a new one if this can be fixed, it's only 4 years old this month.
Great video. Can you do one on the greenworks 82v 12.5ah gl900? They're going for a good price on battery clearing house and wanted to see one under the test. Thanks and great work!
If I run accross one I sure will. I have not come accross any Green works packs to work on yet. Very interesting though.
Do you have the EGO solar generator and any thoughts on it ? I heard from the EGO rep that they are going to be adding a solar panel option to it.
I do not, sorry!
Thanks for all the great Ego vids, TTS!
Can you tell me what the circuit boards do that are between the two cell packs on these batteries? I looked through most of your videos but didn't see anything on it.
I just installed all new cells on my 5.0 and got it all put back together but I seem to have snapped off one of the small rectangular electronic bits that lay right on the end of each cell.
When assembled, it started arcing between the circuit board and that cell until I could unscrew the housing and remove everything.
I actually have not worked on the 5ah that far yet. I have been asked that alot and I have one I need to get into this week! So maybe I will find out real soon. I will mention that some the comments with others, it's been mentioned these in-between boards seemed to them to have thermal cut-offs? I am not sure if they are real thermal cut-offs or if thermistors?
@@ThriftyToolShed Right. I thought they might be a temperature monitor of some type because of the way they're placed at one end of each cell, but you know much more about electronics than I do. I'll see if the pack works without the one little "sensor".
@@joelnowlin807
That will be interesting for sure, I would think it would cause issue if not in circuit. Keep us posted!
@@ThriftyToolShed You make a terrific vid Mr. TTS, however, _Alot_ is a town in India and _a lot_ is more than one of something.
@@coloradostrong
Thanks for the somewhat compliment and I also like feedback on what could be better, however, I'd rather someone just say when and where the issue was since it could have been years ago since a video was uploaded and I surely make many mistakes for sure. I hope whatever it is that everyone knew I was not talking about some town in India! Not all words are as easy to spell as smart or ass.
Very interesting. Was thinking about getting an Ego chainsaw and wanted to see some videos on how hard they are to troubleshoot. Great video man. Also what kind of accent is that Carolina’s? Thanks for the info.
Georgia!
I do like the EGO equipment. The chainsaw impressed me. Love my edger and string trimmer. Don't plan on going back to gas.
Thanks for your comment.
Well I'll be Dog Gone.
Hey do you have links for just the Cells? For the BMS?
These are Li-ion 18650 2500mah and every EGO pack I have ever worked on has the 18650 physical size cells.
I do not know what is in the newer 10ah pack though.
It is hard to say for sure which cells are in the packs due to the unmarked cells but we know they are close to 2500mah due to the 2.5ah, 5ah etc. rating. I bought several bad packs from eBay over the last 6 years or so and tested and collected the good cells from some packs while that helped me repair many packs. We know they will be high current cells. We have had some comments from viewers on here saying the cells they thought their packs have.....
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX. (Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite. I am not aware of anywhere we can buy them with the sleeve at this time. The BMS I have tried many ways to get my hands on and the aftermarket boards may be an option, but I have not had any luck with any manufacturer willing to sell the BMS board by itself. There are a few viewers interested in getting some made. It takes a lot of effort and I have not seen any available yet. One viewer posted in our Facebook group "On the Bench" that he was interested in getting some boards made and has shared the board layout with us in the group. Hopefully some BMS boards will be available soon.
facebook.com/groups/352614655247940/permalink/1704252063417519/?mibextid=Nif5oz
Hello again, back with info that may help others. I had an old (2018) working single-eye BA2800 that is about cell depleted, so I pulled it apart with the intent of swapping that MOBO end cap onto a one year old 2800T five-eye pack with dead MOBO. Besides the screw pattern, all the wiring and connectors appeared identical, so I swapped the end caps and it all works. Allowed me to save a pack with good cells, thanks for your inspiriting tutorials! Would you know if this MOBO swap would work across different A-H batteries?
Hi,
I have shared in some videos over the years of the boards being swapped out in a couple of packs and a couple of things to consider. First of all if they are different gen packs the connectors will be different. I point that out in a few videos that the Gen 1 packs as I call them seem to have smaller connectors. These to me were the earliest packs that were 2ah and 4ah etc. If I have it right the 2nd gen packs were the 2.5ah and the 5.0ah possibly even the 7.5ah( I am unsure when the 7.5ah came out). The newer segmented fuel gauge would be 3rd gen? (I know nothing about those yet really). As far as I can tell the BMS will swap out within the same generation packs, but we have to consider a couple of things. So, the different ah packs do have a different program in the BMS microcontroller. The D-terminal communication with the tool let's some tools know which pack is installed. This is not a huge deal in most tools. It will however limit output of the chainsaw for example and it may not work correctly with the portable power station at least for displaying run time. One of the things that maybe bad about this swap out is the fact that the 2.5ah BMS for example does not look at the middle temperature monitoring boards that the larger packs have in the middle of the pack for monitoring. The connectors are the same but it does not look at the monitoring boards atleast that is what I believe to be happening. I am sure it's more to it than I know as well. For testing I have swapped these out for sure, may not be the best long term solution. Thanks for sharing!
@@ThriftyToolShed Looking at my list of serial #s, the early single-eye dated 1-18 is listed as NBA041, the three 5-segmented (1-20, 9-20, 5-21) are all NBA092, and a newly purchased BA2800T dated 3-22 is also NBA092. Perhaps, as you say, there is an earlier version single eye, as these above all have the same connectors. If I could figure out how to contact you, or you me, I'd send you the 2800T end cap with bad BMS for experimentation.
@@russellselkirk3956 Great Information thanks for sharing.
I have a Facebook page for further contact and sharing of some files etc. (The Facebook link is on my UA-cam channel main page)
@@ThriftyToolShed I'm not on social media but will see if my D-i-L can find you there, thanks!
I’ve got a 2.5AH that also has a blown fuse on it. What would be the best way to calculate the size I would need? I saw how you explained it at 6:04 but I can’t seem to find the formula anywhere.
It's really hard to calculate. I think the thickness for a calculated current rating, but as far as a fuse, it is hard to determine. I am in no way an Electronic Engineer (nor desire to do that, honestly), but the trace is a poor excuse for a fuse for that reason. I have had some arguments over this, but my opinion after doing some of these is go with a 40A rated fuse. The mower has a 40A fuse. Some controllers have 30A fuses and some 40A fuses. I personally would rather a fuse blow in the mower or tool than inside of the pack. Some say 30A for the 1P packs like the 2.5Ah. I think that will work with most tools. The argument is that the 2500mah cells are usually 20A or 25A rated cells. While True they can produce over 100A in short bursts. So I would at minimum go 30A and I would go at minimum 40A on the 5Ah or 2P style packs. The fuse is mainly to protect inncase of short curcuit and is not designed as an easily replacable item of course. You can also find some comments on this subject on the TTS Facebook group called On The Bench. Best of luck to ya!
Love the videos thank you.
I have just received a 10.0Ah battery and the indicator is flashing red. I have tried charging on all 4 of my rapid chargers and none of them start charging. The indicator on the chargers show the battery is full. I have contacted ego and they are sending a replacement and said for me to dispose of the bad one. Any ideas on what could be the problem and any solutions to fix?
I have not had a 10Ah on my bench yet to say much really. I would test voltages on output terminals and each cell group and see if you find anything off there, sounds more like a BMS issue though really. Best of luck to ya!
Thanks Bud. That was my thoughts.
Do you have any experience with generic replacement batteries for EGO? Unfortunately I purchased one recently, used it a few times and it now flashes amber/yellow and shuts itself off, though fully charged. Ever think of opening up an EGO battery repair business, me thinks you'd do quite well.
I really only have the 2 I have done review videos on. They both have been great for me so far. No issues. I do see some bad reviews on these now so some have had issues for sure. They are made very similar to EGO and I show it in the video that the BMS seems to just be a copied EGO board really. So I would check all thermistors and connections and (also the middle temperature monitors board) very well if blinking orange. Thanks for your kind comment, best of luck to ya!
Thanks fr the video. What?s the deal with the 2.5's not charging? The first time it happened I dropped it on the ground a few times and it charged for another season Now the problem is back and that no longer works. I imagine it never did and was a coincidence......
Charger starts then shuts down, red lights
Have you had this problem? is there a video on it?
thanks so much
I have not seen that exact issue. Does the pack also have a red light on it? I have seen bad connection but it is rare. EGO puts the potting all over the BMS and even on the connectors to the BMS. If the pack has been wet or damp alot it could be corrosion, but if not I would look over connections and make sure they are fully seated. If pack is under warranty, let EGO know! Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed yes, red light on battery blinks. I'll open it up thanks
I bought a 2.5 ah battery off of Ebay. The green light does not come on when I press the button. and when I try to charge it the charger just pulses like it is trying to charge starting then stopping over and over. What do you suspect I should look for when I take it apart to troubleshoot? If i do have to replace some cells where do you recommend I buy them?I assume they are 18650's 2.5AH. I have seen you replace cells in packs before but did not notice you ever stating what kind of cells these are or where to get a replacement.
Yes, that is common when the pack has depleted to a very low voltage level. So the charger is trying to output, pulse or boost up the pack it seems, but of course if not bumped up after a brief try it will shut down and give a pack error. I have a video that shows using a Drok converter, I carefully boosted the pack to at least see if I had one or sometimes more than one cell causing the issue. You can also very carefully go across each individual cell with a power supply set at like 4.0v and current limited to 1.0A and see if the cells one by one will rise up make sure you current limited always! If the pack is very low, it is possible most of the cells have pulled too low to fully recover. Usually when the packs pulls down like this it is because the Q12 is shorted on the BMS as mentioned in the previous repair video. Best of luck, I love seeing things come to life that would normally be thrown out or at best recycled!
I did mention that my cells came from buying several bad packs over a year or two period and some had bad BMS and I repaired and some had one or more bad cells, so I went through and tested each cell very well charge and discharge cycle and some of the good cells are my exact match spare cells.So I had spare cells and spare battery housing and spare BMS by parting out one! Since then several viewers have mentioned the brand and type of cells in the comments. Sanyo UR18650NSX is one mentioned by (Jonathan Ridder). (Ipissed)mentioned his are Samsung INR 18650.
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you for the reply and advice.
Hello - I have two batteries like that and they will not charge. I do not have the equipment or knowledge to repair it. Where can I sent them? Thank you
I wish I had time, I do get asked this often. I do not have a repair service at this time. I work full time+ in a Industrial job and try to have time to edit videos to post. I try to help by posting what I have learned and sharing that best I can. Best of luck to you with yours!
@@ThriftyToolShed Thank you -
What would cause this bat to take a charge run for a few minutes and stop,then restart?
A couple of times it will run till depleted w/o stopping.
Thanks for your vids.
Hi,
I am confused is the battery giving trouble while charging or while in use or both? Sounds like maybe charging issues and also depleting too low without shutting down?
@@ThriftyToolShed charges just fine ,once charged and installed on blower it might run for 20 min ,5 min ,30 sec then shut down.
The blower runs good with another batt.
@@spartanj2957
It may be flashing red when it shutsdown and that's an indicator of one or more cells has an issue and it shuts down before the cell drops below 2.7V or so. If the orange light comes on it's usually thinking it's over heated. If not really over heated it could be a loose connection etc. On a thermistor or temperature monitoring board. 20 mins runtime is awesome from a blower say 5Ah. 5 mins is low but if using turbo the whole time it will usually not last more than 7mins. The 30s runtime after fully charged it has an issue for sure. The other thing is make sure the battery connections are cleaned. If the D-terminal is not making connection it will shutdown in 10-15secs. Or so. Sounds like the blower connections are done since it runs well with other packs. I would at least check the terminals on the faulty pack.
Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed
Good idea ,I will check the connections ,waiting on a new charger too arrive as it died 2 days ago.
Thanks for responding .
Good job. What cells are those if needed to be replaced?
I could not find any information on mine, but we have had several comments from viewer about these cells.
(Jonathan Ridder) mentioned his had Sanyo UR18650NSX.
(Ipissed) mentioned his are Samsung INR18650 with phase change sleeves made of paraffin wax/carbon graphite.
Hope it helps. Thanks for your comment!
Thank you,. Thank you.. Thank you.. I had exact same symptoms, opened it up saw the blow fuse, but it is not comming off easily , can use 40 Amp auto fuse on the top of blow fuse . Thanks Thrifty Tool Shed!
Hi, I’ve got a 10ah battery with BMS (fuel gauge) on my Z6 mower. It seems to be completely non-responsive and yet it only has about 8 charge cycles on the battery so it’s brand new. I’ve never discharged it below 30%. Anyways, do you know of anywhere I could send this battery to be repaired/refurbished or send it as a “core” and get 2 smaller 5ah batteries in lieu of it?
I don't know of anywhere. Is it still under warranty so EGO will send replacement or have you already done that.
If you already have a replacement and just want that one swapped out I have 2 5ah packs I would send, but they are both the older 2nd gen packs. The ones with the one LED for the charge indicator?
Hey just curious any issues with the 30A fuse yet?
I have not had any issues yet!
Thank you for your videos. I have a 5 amp battery that is not working. When you push the indicator button, it does not light up at all (green or red).
I checked to see if there was any voltage left and I got a reading of 32 volts. Any idea what the problem might be?
Well the pack should not be that low safely. The cells should all be above 2.7V. so 32V means the average of the 14s in series is less than 2.2V or so. So I typically test each cell (in this case cell cluster since 5ah has 2p or 2 cells in parallel and 14s or 14 of these clusters of the 2 cells in series) most likely the cells have pulled too low, to find out you have to use DMM to test each cell and see if just one cluster or so is bad or if the cells are balanced but all are low it could possibly take a little boost charge and get above 46V or so it may start charging on its own charger again. I have a video from several years ago about cell balancing after my very first EGO 56V BMS repair.
Very happy that you are able to save the batteries pack and use it again. This is very cool. =D
HaHa, that was sweet! Man I enjoyed watching that. I'm gonna order one off eBay and do the same thing just for fun lol Thanks for posting.
Thanks for great video.. I have a 7.5 that it doesn't hold the charge it runs for about a minute and green power button goes red. Any ideas?
I would check the cell voltages to make sure all cell clusters are good using the TP's B1-B14. It could be one of the sets of cells pulling down low. I have had issues with packs glowing green when pressed and then blinking red. I have not found what on the BMS causes that yet. I have worked on 2 like it and come up short. It seems the microcontroller sees that the pack is good and then it thinks a cell has issues. Swapping the BMS with a known good BMS fixes the issue so it's not the cells, thermistor or wiring. I have tested and troubleshoot all I know, all the cell monitoring circuit seems ok. Still the controller doesn't like it? Hopefully yours is not the same as those 2. I am editing a video now showing one kinda similar, it shows green but the charger is showing red when trying to charge. It is a cell issue with this one. It maybe a similar issue. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed I got a new 7.5ah G3 and after 10 charges now it does this ! Fully charge 5 green lights. I us it on a tool now it’s down to 3 green lights no problem. Bring the battery inside the house and 2-3 hours later when I click the see the charge left it start with 2 green lights and after turn all 5 red ! I can’t use it or charge it until it goes back to normal green. It can take a few hours or a day but after that I can charge it again and use it. But it will do it again every 2-3 usage.
Do you think it’s the BMS the trouble and I just need to swap it ?
Thanks
EGO guy, first of all I'm sure you already know this but the new battery should be replaced by EGO no issues. Usually they allow you to keep the old one and I am assuming that is where you are now, right. Got a replacement and now trying to fix the bad one? Anyway, I do not have a newer style (G3) to know for sure. I would agree by what you describe that it is a BMS issue. That is an issue I have not come accross yet for sure. Interesting, and I am sure frustrating. I would say if you have a spare BMS, then I would swap it out. I would not hesitate to clean the connectors and double check that all pins and connections are corrosion free and all look shiny. I have had issues with the older packs with this and of course it would blink Red but not the same gauge as the G3. So I am wondering if this to could be a corrosion or bad connection issue?
@@ThriftyToolShed it’s over 1 moth I’m waiting for a replacement yes :( I will probably try what you said ! Thanks for the help I love your videos
Thanks for your comment!
Best of luck to ya!
So I just got a new EGO lawn mower and the battery worked for 2 mows now it won't light up and no reaction on the charger. Checked and the battery is still at 56 Volts. Contacted EGO support and they are going to send me a new one but it's been 8 days and no shipping info sent. Ego seems like a good company and with their battery warranty I'm expecting I just got a dud.
I'm interested in some common issues I can check for though because keeping the original battery would be great too. Any recommendations for things to look at? I bought the T15 security bits to get in and nothing too obvious off the bat but having a direction would help. Is it possible to buy a replacement BMS?
I have tried to get replacement BMS with no luck yet. The connectors and wires from the connector board to the BMS connection is one main thing to check. The very first video I have on The EGO repair may help some.
ua-cam.com/video/EH0GS0iUzzM/v-deo.html
Btw:
It's been a few years since I used EGO warranty, but they always did very good by me! Best of luck to ya!
Hot air rework unit would make quick work of that stuff.
Yes, I like my Hot air station for sure. I use mine often on the SMD repairs etc. I don't use it on these close to the plastic connectors though.
This might be a nice little ebike battery if you could bring the positive and negative outputs out of the case to Anderson connectors...I get about 20 watt hours per mile, so good for short in ranges up to 10 miles.
Many people use these or at least show much interest in these for EBikes for sure. Since my first EGO repair help videos over 6 years ago I have seen a lot of comments from the EBike community.
Do you ever have to replace the batteries in them or is it usually always just simple stuff like this
I do have some videos replacing cells as well. It is more likely a cell issue than a simple issue usually. My first EGO repair video was successful BMS board repair also. Cell issue is still the most likely to me!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks
I’m in Australia and I find Ego here are bastards to deal with. I have a few older batteries 2-3years old in storage that stopped working. I’ll check out your videos. Thanks
Great video, question for you my 7.5 was not charging correct and when it was full I would only get about 5 minutes from my backpack blower. I would have to pull it off the charger because it would just stop charging, put it back on and started charging again, what would cause this issue and do you think its fixable and where wouldni start. Ego did send a brand new battery because it was stil underwarranty and didn't ask for the old one back
Hard to say without testing. Could be one or more cell groups losing capacity and dropping off in voltage before the others. Best way to test is when the pack is pulled low and cuts out take the pack apart then and test with DMM across all cells to see if you can find the bad cells. Could be a BMS issue but I would start with testing cells. If you feel like you can replace them yourself you could get some capacity back in the back sometimes. Of course sometimes it's a problem with many cells and it's not helpful to simply replace a few. Best of luck to ya!
@@ThriftyToolShed 11
Dirty contacts on the battery from gobs of factory grease collecting dirt, allowing a poor contact. Clean the charger terminals and your equipment terminals, as the grease and dirt transfer there and your battery terminals. Someone at EGO is grease happy. I had the same problem.
Newbie questions: I have a 2.5A battery I've had for several years that charges, but only works for several minutes before discharging. Is there any way to recondition it? A special charger that might do this? Also, is it better to leave batteries on the charger after they've charged or to remove them until needed? I'm a residential user . . . only use my tools about 1x per week. Thanks in advance.
I have had no issue leaving mine on the charger if used regularly. I would store it out of charger if not used for a few weeks though. as far as the pack, I have some videos on that after I did my very first video repairing the 2.5ah 56V pack. I did mention that the cells had gotten out of balance and I used a Drok DC-DC converter to help me bring the voltage up and you can also use a DC power supply if it has CV and CC so you will need the Constant Voltage and Constant Current and you can charge individual cells up to be balanced as well. In the videos following that first repair I did some updates on the pack and had to replace some cells that had pulled too low to have good capacity still. You may find some of that helpful as yours most likely is similar to mine after that repair. If the cells get too unbalanced or if some of them drop in capacity too quickly the pack will shut down early as it tries to protect the cells from over discharge. Best of luck to ya!
Any recommendation to keeping a battery pack healthy? What makes them fail? I hear about overheating. Is this just something that can randomly happen? thanks.
For most packs, some protection is built in. So overtemperature is usually picked up by packs NTC Thermistor and cuts the pack/tool before really bad damage. The Battery Management System also stops the pack from over charge and under discharge. With that said, most packs built in a tight (brick) configuration have overtemp issues at least over time if the are run hard.
Even if the pack does shut down the pack can still be adversely affected (in my opinion). I really look for the pack designed with great air flow. (Such as EGO) Another minor detail is that li-ion cells like to be stored below 30% if stored for long period of time. Li-ion packs are so much better than the older Ni-cd packs, but they can still give issues for sure, for one thing we are working through the learning and adaptation of the BMS with alot of manufacture's having learning curves and issues. Exciting to see how much better they are getting and how much longer they are lasting. Hope your packs hold up, we do what we can!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks for info
is it worth more going in the Ego ecosystem then Snowjoe/Sunjoe, Ego battery seems more reliable then snow joe for winter use ? , i'm planning buying a snow blower and leaf blower
I really don't know about snowjoe/sunjoe personally. I live in Georgia so I have little experience with heavy snow. I have heard great things about the EGO snowblowers and I absolutely love the EGO leaf blowers as well as the string trimmer, edger, hedge trimmers etc. I have had good luck with my packs and the few that have had issues I have been able to repair and use the videos to try to help others with the same issues!
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks !! i think i'll go for Ego
Mine went bad, they sent a new one too. However fixing the old has been on my to do list. It currently only charges to 23.3V, any immediate suggestions?
Most likely have to check all the cells. Some may have lost capacity and read low and are beyond useful life. Charging up the cells can help get some life out of the pack if the cells will take a charge without dropping back off. I usually either replace all cells new or replace a few bad ones with ones that I have tested as spares with roughly the same capacity test results. I shared some of this in a video called Lithium battery FAQ#1.
30a at 54v is a 1600w load ...seems like a 15a might be more appropriate depending on wire size?
What gives you this thought exactly?
Does this battery have the stupid diagnosis function? On the newer batteries, by holding in the power indicator button for 10 seconds, it'll glow red if there's a fault/damage.
Thanks for the video. I have a question on a non working 56v battery that is flashing red. I checked the power and it shows 60V of power, so it seems to have good voltage, but still does not charge or work. Does this mean it has a bad ntc? If so, what is needed to by-pass or fix?
I know the packs charge to 58V typically, I must say I have not read one at 60V yet. That is close to over voltage, I say that because if some individual cells have issues that means some cells could possibly be under and some over the average of 4.3V on that 60V? I would check each individual cell voltage and see if they are all reading ok. Also, is the pack flashing red when you press button right away or is it showing solid green first and then blinking red after a couple seconds?
The NTC's typically read somewhere around 10k ohms at room temp, I talked about this some in the video "what is the T-terminal" it is 3 termistors on the 2.5ah pack.
@@ThriftyToolShed i have a battery that does what you said, blinks green, then red. What does that mean? Appreciate your help.
@@vujohan well if it is blinking green it is usually shorted Q12 transistor as mentioned in the first 56V pack BMS repair. If also blinking red, that is usually low cell detected. I showed this in the 4ah pack repair#3.
@@ThriftyToolShed thanks so much!!!!
Very nice video. My battery is flashing red in the charger. What does this indicate?
Check the pack voltage. If it is not above 42v or so one or more of the cells may be bad. If voltage is good it could be one of the NTC's .
Thank you for your videos, they are very informative! May I ask a question? I have a Ego 56 v 5Ah battery that will not light when placed on the charger nor does the charger fan come on to indicate charging. The voltage across the positive and negative terminals is 46.6 volts. I took the battery apart following the instructions in one of your videos and found two swollen cells. Would replacing these cells likely fix the issue with it not charging? I’m hesitant to go through the process of replacing them if it won’t fix the problem. Any help you can provide is greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
It is hard to say for sure. I have not seen one not charge or try to charge with just a couple bad cells unless they are very bad. With that said, it could be though. I know when the voltage is low on the pack that the standard charger will pulse and try to charge or boost so it may be able to charge. If the pack indicator is blinking red when pressed it could be the problem....
Hi, great video.
I have a 7.5 battery that shows no lights at all either on the 5 segment power meter or when placed on the charger.
I have no electrical experience but am reasonably mechanical.
Can this be fixed please?
Thanks for your kind comment. I still have not worked on a single 3rd gen pack with the 5 segment fuel gauge yet. I have worked on so many 1st and 2nd gen that I have plenty still. With that said, I don't know how similar the connector board is on the 3rd Gen packs. I would check the fuse. I have had a couple blown fuses and I shared one of the 4ah or a 5ah on video showing that. Worth checking out. Best of luck to ya!
What fuse would a 2.5a battery need?
I believe the 30A fuse would be fine for the 2.5ah. if you would like to use a piece of fuse link like I did, I cut this is an example link down and soldered them in place of the factory trace fuse.
amzn.to/3obxME8
If you rather be safe and go with the 40A versions, then this is an example link...
amzn.to/3IKALN6
@@ThriftyToolShed Thanks for the info, will give it a go :)
I have 2 of the batteries like in this video and 1 of the new ones with the segmented led they are all 2.5Ah the issue is that all 3 of them initially light up green when the button is pressed then they flash redd. None of them will charge either. Do you have any experience on fixing this issue? Thanks
That is one failure that I have not been able to see enough to figure out completely. I do hear of this exact issue from viewers a lot. I have had 2 older gen 2 boards do this and I could not find anything obvious with the board. I basically thought the issue was in the microcontroller itself. I had not seen the issue with the newer 3rd gen board with the segmented leds until my last EGO video. I did share a little about this problem. A viewer sent in a BMS of a 3rd gen so we could look into it and unfortunately I had a mishap with one of the connectors and it did mess up the micro controller before I could troubleshoot it at all. I shared a little, but it was already damaged unfortunately. I will share the video for troubleshooting, but I still have no answer for that issue.
ua-cam.com/video/s7-U6PTVM58/v-deo.html