Most people don't realize that it is the best use of a log to cut the smallest boards (2x4's etc) out of the largest logs from your pile. Similarly if you are cutting posts/beams or timbers (6x6 and larger) use the smallest log that will yield that size.
Sometimes the comments I read on UA-cam are fantastic. Yours is one of them. I'm very new to sawmilling having just finishing assembling my mill and I can tell you I know nothing about sawing logs. Done a few test cuts on some 6' long logs. Worked out the water and feed speeds and spent the rest of the time ironing out the very many bugs, then finally setting the mill up for accuracy. I've now moved the mill from where I assembled it into the area where I'll be sawing the lumber to build a shed to put my mill in. First I need a covered wood rack so I have a log on the mill ready to go and was wondering what to do with it - hence this vid. Read your comment. What an absolute ripper! I live in a forest and can choose whatever diameter and species I want for various projects and your comment is immensely helpful. Why? Because I was actually going to waste my big logs by cutting 6x6s and larger out of them. You saved me LOL. Cheers for that.
Something that may help to make the cutting more efficient is a log to cant scale, like the magnet one cage hill sawyer has. To get a clean 6x6, you need a log that is 9" in diameter on the small side. A simple swag would be the diameter of the log multiplied by 0.7. So 9"×0.7=6.3" post. Now, if the log has lots of knots, you should also cut the log where the blade enters the small end first. The main reason is to prevent waves in the cut due to knots, and also, by cutting the small end first you will know the limits of your cut. Good luck with your new sawmill. Stay safe and have fun.
Remarkable! I was amazed by the detailed process shown here. It's fascinating to watch how you manage these giant pieces of wood. The video quality is top-notch. I can't wait for the next video. Continue sharing these fantastic videos!
I really enjoy your tone throughout the video and method of filming with a detailed explanation. Very nice! I am new to this trying to figure out my Woodmizer Lt70. Even though the controls are quite different I think you helped me sort out in my head the procedure to go through on my machine. When I get really good with mine I plan on doing a detailed explanation to help the next novice. I like the simplicity of the controls and buttons on your machine.
The advanced setworks on a Timberking are one of the best out there. I don't like their simple setworks. The best I've seen of that is the simple setworks on a woodmizer LT35. Each company does it slightly differently. Hope the channel continues to be enjoyable for you, happy sawing, have fun, and stay safe!
My Dad was a Sawyer for a small production family mill. I never saw him measure a log. His first cut on a face was always to get a 4-inch board. He would take a couple boards of various widths one inch thick from each of the four sides. Then, would cut the cants into the desired boards. I guess doing this work, eight hours a day, five days a week, one gets good at looking at the log and knowing what can be milled from it.
Great video! I've seen a lot of sawing videos but none as good as what you just did. Great explanation of the saw-set and use of the time-lapse video. I'm in my 70's and have been sawing wit an LT40 - HD40 for about 25 years and I saw a lot of pine. I use the that saw approach on demensional lumber but squeese a little more out of the slabs (stickers, 1x6's & 4's). Enjoyed your video and will be watching more. Thanks
I appreciate the kind words. I started on a bandsaw sawmill back in 2003. But I've been fortunate enough to run a lot of different sawmills and network with sawyers. I love to talk about sawmills and try and learn as much as I can.
Great video sir. I appreciate the time lapse for the repetitive cuts. I am no sawyer but I would like to be as I near retirement and this information is very helpful. Thank you.
I need a lot of strapping so I tend to cut most of it out of the slabs. Just a thin slab to get a 4" face, then cut another inch or two off for re-sawing. I do waste some time in doing that though so I can understand why you would opt for bigger slabs, also your lumber grade will be higher by taking bigger slabs like that
Thanks for the great tips. When I saw 1.5x3.5, with a log that isn't completely dry, how much will the milled boards shrink? Should I cut them slightly bigger to account for shrinkage? Thanks.
Thanks for the great content. I'm not trying to 'troll' you here, but after adjusting the saw head for the thickness of the final board, I'd swear that blade looked a hair over on the right side ( like you said ), but I thought I saw a hair under on the left side? Anyway, angle wasn't as good, so I may be mistaken. Cheers.
It may have been the angle of the camera, but the one thing I didn't do was put a level across the blade and verify left to right a bit more precise. I'll check it out this weekend. Measuring the boards that came off they are spot on + - a 16th.
Haven't been cutting with my Timber King 1600 that long, (3 yrs) but I have found getting a square cant is fine, but you can lose a lot of useable wood by knowing that there are a lot of wood dimensions that you lose in the cut offs if you don't watch what your doing. For example realize that you might need stickers for stacking and drying lumber. Or, how about the 1"x4" boards for trim work. In your first two cuts in this video, you lost a lot of useable material...just saying. I just hate cutting up useable lumber into firewood.
Yes you are correct but for the job I was cutting the customer wanted 2x4's. The off cuts I put off to the side and I'm using them for another job. My goal for these logs was maximum yield with the fewest cuts.
Jack like you I hate to waste anything, but I've noticed that most sawyers cut the logs just as Thomas has done. I find that the boards cut from initial cutoffs are always cupped when they dry even with extra weight on top. I usually cut them 5/4 so they can be planed down to a 3/4 board, but it is a bunch of extra work. I usually run the cutoffs through the chipper and salvage as much of the sawdust as I can. It all helps in trying to reclaim the rocky soil here. I've been spending a lot of time watching how others cut their logs and why. I"m always looking for a bit of wisdom anywhere I can find it. Which is why I appreciate all the effort Thomas has put in. I also have a Timberking 2000.
I have built plenty of buildings and structures without issue. Building with green lumber is nothing new. You just have to understand that in dimensional lumber that is green may shrink a little. I like to let the lumber dry for a bit if possible (15% or so) but if not, that's OK. If building a stud wall with green, I would let it dry in place for a month or two before walling it up.
Not a bad video. And everybody complains via the internet which I don't agree with but being probably 1500 miles apart we can't have this conversation face to face. Now I would have gotten some boards out of those"wast"pieces. I know you said to you might thrown back on but I would have gotten them before they came off the mill, why fingerprinted the stuff more than once. Also my customers order a 2x4 they're getting a 2x4 if they wanted a store-bought 2x4 then they would go to the store. Anything I cut is a quarter of an inch larger on both sides, figuring on the thickness of the blade and drying. Now I also understand there is a difference in location so 🤷, if it works for your business go for it. Unfortunately I have no hydraulics of any form so every step counts.
If you’re supplying the log how much do you charge the customer and how do you calculate it He getting 55 2x4x8’ for what cost My reason for asking is my son just purchased a mill and we’re trying to get a fair price for customers and him Thanks
You can do the math for that chart in your head. Multiply the diameter of the small end by .7. So, .7 times 12 is 8.4 and . 7 times 16 is 11.2, and so on. Pretty close. the chart makes it easier, but your head needs excursive, too.
Yes we are in the process of moving from Mississippi to Wisconsin this summer. It's a huge process since I'm moving all of our household and equipment. I've got a lot of videos uploaded that I'll release over the summer to keep the videos flowing.
The pith is an interesting one. If it can be boxed I box it. Sometimes it can't be due to the cut or the fact that it wanders. It is the least stable part of the tree but lumber containing the pith can still be used, especially in pine. Placement of the pith is key, I examine the wood off the mill and inform the customer that some boards may contain the pith. Based on application that may be ok and the customer can make that call. Additionally when someone puts in a large order I try to give extra boards. A centered pith is the preferred when cutting timbers and posts, but for dimensional wood used in framing it's not. Another way to get around that fact that the board or boards containing the pith are weaker is to cut full dimensional lumber vice store bought. The pith in hardwood like oak should be cut out, however there is a trick I do for river table pieces.
There is a simple method in get a square post out of a tree, draw a cross on the face of the cut at the small end of the tree, that makes four quarters, and then draw a second cross so there is eight quarters, and then you draw the square, it's so easy it's child's play 🤣
Most people don't realize that it is the best use of a log to cut the smallest boards (2x4's etc) out of the largest logs from your pile. Similarly if you are cutting posts/beams or timbers (6x6 and larger) use the smallest log that will yield that size.
That is exactly right. I save my smaller logs for the beams and posts.
Interesting. thank you
Sometimes the comments I read on UA-cam are fantastic. Yours is one of them.
I'm very new to sawmilling having just finishing assembling my mill and I can tell you I know nothing about sawing logs. Done a few test cuts on some 6' long logs. Worked out the water and feed speeds and spent the rest of the time ironing out the very many bugs, then finally setting the mill up for accuracy.
I've now moved the mill from where I assembled it into the area where I'll be sawing the lumber to build a shed to put my mill in. First I need a covered wood rack so I have a log on the mill ready to go and was wondering what to do with it - hence this vid.
Read your comment. What an absolute ripper!
I live in a forest and can choose whatever diameter and species I want for various projects and your comment is immensely helpful. Why? Because I was actually going to waste my big logs by cutting 6x6s and larger out of them.
You saved me LOL.
Cheers for that.
Something that may help to make the cutting more efficient is a log to cant scale, like the magnet one cage hill sawyer has. To get a clean 6x6, you need a log that is 9" in diameter on the small side. A simple swag would be the diameter of the log multiplied by 0.7. So 9"×0.7=6.3" post. Now, if the log has lots of knots, you should also cut the log where the blade enters the small end first. The main reason is to prevent waves in the cut due to knots, and also, by cutting the small end first you will know the limits of your cut.
Good luck with your new sawmill. Stay safe and have fun.
Remarkable! I was amazed by the detailed process shown here. It's fascinating to watch how you manage these giant pieces of wood. The video quality is top-notch. I can't wait for the next video. Continue sharing these fantastic videos!
I really enjoy your tone throughout the video and method of filming with a detailed explanation. Very nice! I am new to this trying to figure out my Woodmizer Lt70. Even though the controls are quite different I think you helped me sort out in my head the procedure to go through on my machine. When I get really good with mine I plan on doing a detailed explanation to help the next novice. I like the simplicity of the controls and buttons on your machine.
The advanced setworks on a Timberking are one of the best out there. I don't like their simple setworks. The best I've seen of that is the simple setworks on a woodmizer LT35. Each company does it slightly differently. Hope the channel continues to be enjoyable for you, happy sawing, have fun, and stay safe!
My Dad was a Sawyer for a small production family mill. I never saw him measure a log. His first cut on a face was always to get a 4-inch board. He would take a couple boards of various widths one inch thick from each of the four sides. Then, would cut the cants into the desired boards.
I guess doing this work, eight hours a day, five days a week, one gets good at looking at the log and knowing what can be milled from it.
Great video! I've seen a lot of sawing videos but none as good as what you just did. Great explanation of the saw-set and use of the time-lapse video. I'm in my 70's and have been sawing wit an LT40 - HD40 for about 25 years and I saw a lot of pine. I use the that saw approach on demensional lumber but squeese a little more out of the slabs (stickers, 1x6's & 4's). Enjoyed your video and will be watching more. Thanks
I appreciate the kind words. I started on a bandsaw sawmill back in 2003. But I've been fortunate enough to run a lot of different sawmills and network with sawyers. I love to talk about sawmills and try and learn as much as I can.
Great video sir. I appreciate the time lapse for the repetitive cuts. I am no sawyer but I would like to be as I near retirement and this information is very helpful. Thank you.
I need a lot of strapping so I tend to cut most of it out of the slabs. Just a thin slab to get a 4" face, then cut another inch or two off for re-sawing. I do waste some time in doing that though so I can understand why you would opt for bigger slabs, also your lumber grade will be higher by taking bigger slabs like that
Informative Mate. Cheers
Great information, very educational video, thanks.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed
Nice job !
Appreciate the video. I’m from Mize and wondering if you know anyone locally who sharpens and set blades? Thanks
I'd like to purchase one of those scales.I'll ck.below after the show.good stuff.
I will get the contact info for you
His name is Mr. Edwards and you can call or text him at the number on the magnetic scale. 601-606-4907
@@TCSawmills thanks Thomas I ordered 2 n sent the ck.today.
Wondering where a person could get a cage hill cant scale
Excellent video!
Thanks for the great tips. When I saw 1.5x3.5, with a log that isn't completely dry, how much will the milled boards shrink? Should I cut them slightly bigger to account for shrinkage? Thanks.
Knew to this are you suppose to cut the pit for boards.
Thanks for the great content. I'm not trying to 'troll' you here, but after adjusting the saw head for the thickness of the final board, I'd swear that blade looked a hair over on the right side ( like you said ), but I thought I saw a hair under on the left side? Anyway, angle wasn't as good, so I may be mistaken. Cheers.
It may have been the angle of the camera, but the one thing I didn't do was put a level across the blade and verify left to right a bit more precise. I'll check it out this weekend. Measuring the boards that came off they are spot on + - a 16th.
How dry do you like your logs to be before sawmilling them? Thx
Haven't been cutting with my Timber King 1600 that long, (3 yrs) but I have found getting a square cant is fine, but you can lose a lot of useable wood by knowing that there are a lot of wood dimensions that you lose in the cut offs if you don't watch what your doing. For example realize that you might need stickers for stacking and drying lumber. Or, how about the 1"x4" boards for trim work. In your first two cuts in this video, you lost a lot of useable material...just saying. I just hate cutting up useable lumber into firewood.
Agree- I try to get at least a 1x6.
Yes you are correct but for the job I was cutting the customer wanted 2x4's. The off cuts I put off to the side and I'm using them for another job. My goal for these logs was maximum yield with the fewest cuts.
@@TCSawmills clients job first with sharp blade. Can always resaw later💪
Jack like you I hate to waste anything, but I've noticed that most sawyers cut the logs just as Thomas has done. I find that the boards cut from initial cutoffs are always cupped when they dry even with extra weight on top. I usually cut them 5/4 so they can be planed down to a 3/4 board, but it is a bunch of extra work. I usually run the cutoffs through the chipper and salvage as much of the sawdust as I can. It all helps in trying to reclaim the rocky soil here. I've been spending a lot of time watching how others cut their logs and why. I"m always looking for a bit of wisdom anywhere I can find it. Which is why I appreciate all the effort Thomas has put in. I also have a Timberking 2000.
square the diameter divide by 2 and find the square root if you don't have a scale.
Have you had any issues from people building with green lumber? I’ve seen mixed thoughts.
I have built plenty of buildings and structures without issue. Building with green lumber is nothing new. You just have to understand that in dimensional lumber that is green may shrink a little. I like to let the lumber dry for a bit if possible (15% or so) but if not, that's OK. If building a stud wall with green, I would let it dry in place for a month or two before walling it up.
Turn your logs 180. Not 90. Saves in workload. Increase grade .reduce movement forces and a hole list of other things
Great yield and at today’s prices that’s about $500 worth of box store lumber.
You can make a cant chart by measuring the log diameter under bark (DUB) and using a calculator multiply DUB by .700. that's point 700
DIB...DIA. INSIDE BARK. Couldn't help myself. Forester for 35 yrs🙂
Not a bad video. And everybody complains via the internet which I don't agree with but being probably 1500 miles apart we can't have this conversation face to face. Now I would have gotten some boards out of those"wast"pieces. I know you said to you might thrown back on but I would have gotten them before they came off the mill, why fingerprinted the stuff more than once. Also my customers order a 2x4 they're getting a 2x4 if they wanted a store-bought 2x4 then they would go to the store. Anything I cut is a quarter of an inch larger on both sides, figuring on the thickness of the blade and drying. Now I also understand there is a difference in location so 🤷, if it works for your business go for it. Unfortunately I have no hydraulics of any form so every step counts.
Slabbing a tree is indeed just like a box of chocolates and truly, you never know what you are going to get.
yOU CUT EXACTLY AT 1.5" X 3.5". How much do you loose after kiln drying the final product?
If you’re supplying the log how much do you charge the customer and how do you calculate it
He getting 55 2x4x8’ for what cost
My reason for asking is my son just purchased a mill and we’re trying to get a fair price for customers and him
Thanks
I sell pine at $1 a board ft if I supply the log and if it's the customer's log I charge 45 cents a board ft
That’s 50 sir😁👍 Great vid man! Thanks...
You can do the math for that chart in your head. Multiply the diameter of the small end by .7. So, .7 times 12 is 8.4 and . 7 times 16 is 11.2, and so on. Pretty close. the chart makes it easier, but your head needs excursive, too.
Why do you start with the big end of the log? Wouln'd it be easier with the smaler end?
It doesn't really matter since I have toe boards. If there were lots of knots I would put tge little end towards the saw head.
How can I get the cant schedule magnet??
Where can i get that chart in centimeters?
Didn’t you get a change of duty station?
Yes we are in the process of moving from Mississippi to Wisconsin this summer. It's a huge process since I'm moving all of our household and equipment. I've got a lot of videos uploaded that I'll release over the summer to keep the videos flowing.
@@TCSawmills thanks for your service
Impressive.
Do people Buy the Plinth wood, if not why is it counted Into your total?
The pith is an interesting one. If it can be boxed I box it. Sometimes it can't be due to the cut or the fact that it wanders. It is the least stable part of the tree but lumber containing the pith can still be used, especially in pine. Placement of the pith is key, I examine the wood off the mill and inform the customer that some boards may contain the pith. Based on application that may be ok and the customer can make that call. Additionally when someone puts in a large order I try to give extra boards. A centered pith is the preferred when cutting timbers and posts, but for dimensional wood used in framing it's not. Another way to get around that fact that the board or boards containing the pith are weaker is to cut full dimensional lumber vice store bought. The pith in hardwood like oak should be cut out, however there is a trick I do for river table pieces.
Nice
Good machine
loveyz,log,
loveyz,wood,
loveyz,tree,
2x2,2x3,cut,cutting,
There is a simple method in get a square post out of a tree, draw a cross on the face of the cut at the small end of the tree, that makes four quarters, and then draw a second cross so there is eight quarters, and then you draw the square, it's so easy it's child's play 🤣
557 gave you a thumbs down,Think that says it all
Not sure what you are seeing.... Shows 558 likes and 17 dislikes
Too much blah blah blah I'm out
Ok, not forcing anyone to watch
And your confusing
Well at least I'm not rude 🙂
No your not rude just boring.
Ok
Why arnt you cutting a couple boards out of what your calling the waist by not it is waist