Carmina Shoe Review - Chestnut SEMI-BROGUE Oxfords 👞 | Kirby Allison
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- The Carmina Shoe Review - Chestnut SEMI-BROGUE Oxfords is made with a beautiful chestnut vegetable tanned leather on their Inca last. The shoe features broguing on the toe cap, vamp, and rear quarters. I really appreciate Carmina’s ability to retain all of the broguing elements one would expect on a semi-brogue without the shoe being overwhelmed or looking too busy. This is achieved with several techniques we’ll discuss in a bit.
The shoe retails for $495 with free shipping in the United States. For those located outside the United States, they can be purchased from Carmina’s European webshop for 410€. Cedar shoe trees are an additional $70.
DESIGN
The Carmina #80251 Semi-Brogue Oxfords are made in a beautiful, light-brown chestnut vegetable tanned leather on the company’s Inca last. This shoe has all of the traditional elements of a semi-brogue, with its medallion and broguing elements, but without being overwhelming or looking too busy. In fact, for a semi-brogue, it is actually quite a clean looking shoe, which I really appreciate. There is a great balance between the beautiful, open leather pieces and the broguing, which showcases the natural beauty of the vegetable tanned leather.
Carmina is able to achieve this balance on the #80251 using several techniques. First, they use single-needle stitching along the broguing. I have seen this done by other makers using double-stitching, essentially creating four rows of stitching along the broguing, and it creates a very heavy look. This is not the case on these Carminas.
As with all Carminas, these shoes have only five eyelets, which, when combined with the tighter broguing pattern and single-needle stitching, opens up and elongates the vamp. The front cap is still quite large and balanced, but not at the expense of having a nice, open vamp. The benefit of a large, open vamp is that it allows the shoe to better control creasing and ensures that the shoe does not crease across the cap or other pattern elements.
MATERIAL
This particular model is made out of Carmina’s chestnut vegetable tanned leather. Vegetable tanned leather is tanned using vegetable madders, like oak or spruce bark, chestnut wood, etc, and is a more traditional way of tanning. It produces a leather that is yellow or light-beige in color and is softer, more natural looking than chrome tanned leathers.
Full leather outsoles are used, with full-leather heel blocks and combination top-lifts. And metal toe-taps can be added at an additional charge if purchased through Carmina’s website.
CONSTRUCTION
Carmina is so well-known amongst shoe enthusiasts because of how well their shoes are constructed. All of the elements of quality and craftsmanship that one would expect on a high-quality pair of factory-made, Goodyear welted shoes can be found here. Beyond this price point, you begin to hit the point of diminishing marginal return. But the value here is quite exceptional.
The Goodyear welting allows for a pair of shoes to be easily resoled without disturbing the integrity, fit, or shape of the shoe. The outsole can be easily pulled off and a new one sewn back on by a skilled cobbler, like our Kirby Allison Certified Shoe Restoration Program.
Another element, and one I find very important is that the outsole is stitched to the welt using an invisible channel, as opposed to an open channel found on shoes like Allen Edmonds. This creates a much more beautiful outsole that conceals the outsole stitching. The outsoles are also dyed and polished to a nice light-brown color. Again, all extra steps in the finishing process.
SUMMARY AND ENDING
Carmina is passionate for shoemaking, and everything about how these shoes are constructed and finished is superb. At $450, they are an incredible value and a shoe that anyone could be proud to wear anywhere.
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I go down one full size from my Brannock size for Carminas - just a half size down would be too big. Inca and Oscar lasts are incredible for my slightly wider, flat feet. Carmina is the bomb. Hard to buy anything less now.
You mentioned in this video and another Carmina one that you have to size down 1/2 for Carmina's European sizing, but is actually a full size down conversion. Since they make you pay $35 for return shipping I don't want people ordering incorrectly. Plus they frequently take 45 days to make if out of stock so will set you back another 45 plus days if order wrong size. Take note of the material too, as Rain last in suede fits me well in 8.5 but in calf leather 8.5 is waaaay to tight, ideal to try on in store if in NYC area or order several sizes online and compare since return is flat rate fee for all items in order.
Nice review, you speak very well and review in fine detail, how about a review on a Cobbler Union shoe!
I have bought a pair and like the styling and quality. It also seems to retain its shape well I believe that's because of the goodyear welting. I like a stiffer shoe. Also their customer service was excellent.
Tim 7 We are planning to do some work with them in August!
Exceptional review Kirby. Cobbler Union and Crockett and Jones .
Next pair of shoes is gonna be a Carmina double monk in oxblood. And in cordovan if available.
Amazed by your knowledge about fine shoes. Good review based on relevant facts.
Just purchased the horse it loafer. Fabulous. Prompt delivery service. Good shoes last forever if properly cared for.
I'm not a fan of broguing but these I would proudly wear, impeccable taste like always Kirby!
I didn’t like brogue shoes either. Got a deal on some and now I love them.
Very elegant shoes. Nice review
Love the shoes , great color . Great review !
Top notch review....The shoe color looks similar to the Allen Edmonds walnut.
Oddly, even when I travel to Spain, due to the VAT and other factors
....it's less expensive to buy in the USA....not that much more money than Allen Edmonds.
In fact, the Carmina rounded Cap Toe, "Detroit", is under $360 delivered...which is less than the Park Ave Allen Edmonds
Look very similar.
Very smooth looking for a weekend even wearing jeans.
great video!Have yet to invest in Carmina shoes but recently bought an AE Strand in Walnut.This paticular pair looks very similar.Would love to hear your comparison between AE Strands and Carmina in Chestnut.Thank you for the indept info.Really appreciate it.
I look forward to visiting the Carmina store for a proper fitting in June 2020 when I head to the East coast from California on business. To say I’m looking forward to it would be an understatement. I see a pair of black, box calf whole cuts in my future.
Great detailed review-thank you for building my anticipation on anything “Carmina”.
Due to lifelong Orthopedic problems and the need to put orthotics in my shoes, I went to Carmina's store locally at 45th St. in New York, hoping I could get fit with a quality pair of dress shoes that I could fit my orthotics into and wear comfortably. Instead, I was met by a pushy salesman who was just hellbent on selling whatever they had in stock. When I got home and double checked the Detroits he had sold me, I saw that my orthotics were in fact cutting into the sides of the shoes, and would in no time be damaging the linings. Although I could probably get a perfect pair of custom Carminas for myself, I can't trust this company anymore. I'm just taking these shoes back.
Good evening Kirby
I have just watched your Carmina shoe review and I wondered if you could also do a review on the JM Weston Show range, especially their mocassins 180.
Looking forward to more of your informative reviews.
Thank you.
Yes J.M.Weston 180 😃 My Favorite Shoes More Than 25 Years Deserve An Episode Section.
Gorgeous shoes.
I would like to see a review of some Crockett & Jones models, particularly the Hardwick Derby in suede.
My vote on any crockett and jones as well. Last 348 is legendary
Kirby, thank you very much for making review of model based on Inca last. Two days ago I ordered my first Carmina pair. They run discount week for custom models these days. I was quite in doubt whether I had made a proper choice when ordered Inca last for brogued wingtip oxford. While looking at RTW catalog one can notice that this shape is traditionally used for cap toe or pain toe models. Thanks to that video I was able to look closer at this silhouette, hopefully my choice was not a mistake.
If I may, how did the pair turn out?
@@AlejandroMartinezVelasco a bit tight at heel area, compared to all my pairs from other brands instagram.com/p/CBi4p9bFKwT. Not too critical at the moment, hopefully this will gone. Maybe I should have ordered half size more. At the same time boots in INCA last fit perfectly, even a bit roomy. Still I have some doubts if INCA is a good last for boots, maybe OSCAR would have been better option pin.it/5VzfPsO.
I recently visited Carmina on Madison Avenue and the customer service was first-class. Unfortunately, men with big and wide feet, may be disappointed. I have many pairs of AE in the EEE width at US size of 12.5 or 13 (depending on leather and last). I tried a range of Carminas and did not find a suitable fit. Two additional lasts were not in stock and I will try again when they are in stock. It is clear that to get some of their more elegant styles (the semi-brogue is stunning), I will need to use their custom service, if I can find a last that fits me.
Perfect i have just been looking into Carmina boots and shoes
Very good 👍
Thank you for this informative video.
Brao ! Nice review. I have owned a few pairs of Carmina myself and they last and fit quite well. Why not a review on french bootmaker Aubercy?
What size are you in the Park Avenue or 65 last. And what size did you get in this Carmina shoe? Thanks Kirby.
Hello, I watch your video's regularly and really enjoy them. The Carmina shoes are just beautiful and I particularly like the ones you bought. Where can you buy a pair or even Chelsea Boots in the US? Thanks. BTW, I have seen the video in New York several times, is there anywhere in the south that sells these? If not, do you have their website so I can visit it and look at all their shoes?
Kirby, in your opinion, which shoes are better? Carmina or Crockett & Jones? Would very much appreciate your straight forward opinion. Best.
Chestnut or Walnut? I thought Chestnut was much deeper in color, almost burgundy, and walnut was light.
Thank you for the detailed and instructive video
I’m looking forward to getting one this beauties after the confinement will end here in France
I was wondering about the fit m...
I’m used to get some Meermin shoes and depending on the last I tend to take 8,5 with additional sole for some last like the OLFE or 8,5 for Elton last which fits me as a bespoke would ( even if I never got one so far😉)
How would you say that they fit. Small or quite large ?
Greetings from France 🇫🇷
Thank you for the review!
Do you know whether the counters are leather board or plastic?
Could you do a shoe review on meermin shoes? They seem like they are really good quality for their price point.
I had a chance to visit the Meermin store and Carmina's store in Madrid. I couldn't talk myself into purchasing any Meermins. Not only I was not impressed with any of their shoes, the service I received was quite unpleasant. Carmina on the other hand, after purchasing my first pair I am having a hard time buying more Allen Edmonds...
@@nodieusaThat's good to know I didn't know that thank you for telling me.
Same here, at this price range, their service and quality will just make you keep buying from them.
Meermin has very nice shoes. But the break-in is very rough... I think they are a good deal but the quality is absolutely not on the level of Carmina or C&J. I own two pairs from Meermin.
My experience with the stores was the other way around. The visit to the Meermin store in Madrid was very nice. While the experience in a Carmina store on Mallorca was pretty bad. (unfriendly people)
Depends on the store and the employees I guess..
Please, which site can I order this Carmina shoe from? I will really appreciate your help
Kirby Allison is the Sheldon Cooper of shoes
I wish they made this color in a EEE.
Do a whole cut cordovan chelsea next
I think the US size conversion is actually a full size down from UK sizing as shown on their and most charts so 9.5 UK is 8.5 US
I agree, I purchased clothing when I lived in england and it is definately a size off.
You meant 8.5 US is 9.5 UK
@@julioc4978 wrong wrong wrong 8.5uk is 9.5us.
I couldn’t afford one of those shoes, much less two.
They are an investment yes at 450. I'm a working stiff and believe me, they are worth every penny I'm sure. A lifetime shoe is what we have here...if cared for they will literally last your life time!
I'm looking at the Spectator. Any review on those?
John Walton Just bought those! Gorgeous shoes.
Are these shoe in calf skin or cordovan?
Please review the Alden shoes!
Nochaser Guitar Channel it’s on our short list!
radical
Have been trying to find these shoes on line, no luck. Are they still available?
You will have to get them customized. There is a free custom weekend going on right now for Carmina!
Yum
Does anyone know where or how you can get the brass tacks added to the sole of a pair of Crockett & Jones shoes?
Brent Newbury if you are in USA look into Bedos Leatherworks out Virginia, but, that may not be cost effective for you. Most cobblers or shoe repair shops that do Quality work should be a resource for you. Google shoe repair shops in your area, then reference Google and Yelp reviews .
Order brass shoe tacks and a small hammer and install them yourself! Get creative!
Hi Brent. We also have our own shoe repair program doing work at the highest level. Check it out. I'm sure we can take care of your C&J's.
I want that shoes how much price
$450
What is a fiddleback waist?
Here's an example of a fiddle back waist: www.cheaney.co.uk/images/cheaney-holyrood-double-buckle-monk-shoe-in-bronzed-espresso-calf-leather-p66-1413_medium.jpg
@@brentnewbury9329 Thats funny because I noticed this beveled waist on the Cobble Union shoes I bought. I called them to ask if I needed to send them back to them for resoling if I wanted to keep that feature in the sole design. They don't have a resoling program so I assume when I have to get these resoled that feature would be absent in the newly resoled shoe. I have never seen this feature before in a shoe.
@@hk-in8cg it takes a lot more work and care and is more often seen only on bespoke shoes of a grand or more. It adds both style and function in the form of a ridged mid to rear arch support. Cobblers should be able to resole them tho, it takes more talent to redo tho. So long as a shoe is blaker stitched or Goodyear welted it should be resolable. I'm not an expert tho...
These shoes look great. Please, do not antique polish them!
I would add red or burgandy polish to the toe only. But I agree, the uniform colour is very nice...
Love the content however these premieres are extremely irritating.
What's irritating about a premiere? He's bringing his passion to us by teaching...
@Frank Furt oh got ya, but I personally like the lead up to the full length segment after the premiere. Just my opinion of course...it's a great channel and I love ordering from the Hanger Project. He's also keen on literally going into the warehouse to show us exactly what we get. He definately leads from the front with his business. Thanks for the reply and clarification tho!
Beautiful... my allen edmond brogue comparing to this is like shits
Kirby, I am fairly new to your channel, and I am wondering if you have a series of vegan/vegetarian quality shoes?
Leather shoes are vegan. Leather is a reclaimed product of the beef industry. Furs are a different matter as animals like mink are raised only for their pelts but all cow leather, even Cordovan which is horse hide is reclaimed so you can sleep well at night!
leather is made from a 100% natural process of grass and hay, the cow is the machine ;)
I've been watching a few of your videos but I'm starting to doubt you based on your tie style
:)
There’s a fashion in the UK to wear this colour with dark suits and it looks appalling.You wouldn’t be seen dead wearing that combination at one time.
I prefer the French styles more...and I'm half British!
I understand your point, but I saw a gentleman recently wearing a very similar pair of shoes with a navy suit, and i have to say it worked, I know it shouldn't , but it did:)
i am a conservative midwestener living on the East Coast and not an Engiish country gentleman so I find the broguing too much for my conservative taste.
Good Bye....Allen Edmonds....
Personally, i prefer something a bit more conservative like AE.
Hate the new intro and the new thumbnail style.
LOL that sounds more like a reflection of where you are in your life then what is going on here.
@@a.b.4052 Or the thumbnail and intro just aren't good? Not very slick rick
How so?
No shoe queef in this video. Must be an inferior fit.
Absolutely bizarre to review a shoe without showing it on foot and walking around.
I recently visited Carmina on Madison Avenue and the customer service was first-class. Unfortunately, men with big and wide feet, may be disappointed. I have many pairs of AE in the EEE width at US size of 12.5 or 13 (depending on leather and last). I tried a range of Carminas and did not find a suitable fit. Two additional lasts were not in stock and I will try again when they are in stock. It is clear that to get some of their more elegant styles (the semi-brogue is stunning), I will need to use their custom service, if I can find a last that fits me.