First of your videos that I've watched and wow was that super informative. Thank you for an excellent breakdown for someone who is really intimidated by the vast world of finishes. Thank you sir! 👏 👍
Liked the video and a good general overview. Of course there are so many options when itt comes to finishing. Bob Fleshed has great books on the subject. I use HVLP speaking using water based polyurethane for a lot of shop projects. Perhaps a video on this?
*Hello there, I have requested your DVDs, for simpler and quicker approach to manufacture a shed **Allmy.Tips** I trust the substance are as you guaranteed it will be. Just I'm worried with the substance, it won't be anything but difficult to settle on a decision from the various plans.*
I second Chris Windberg's comments. All the info on the internet can be overwhelming and contradictory. This video told me everything I wanted to know about these finishes. I'll be ordering from Woodworker's Source to keep the great videos coming. Thank you!
Thank you for addressing the combustible rag thing. Honestly that is why when I was a new woodworker I avoided oil finishes for years, until I felt comfortable and confident with the fire safety part.
Had to laugh at the comment about the free instructions on the back. Another great video, your presentation is awesome, and the timing could not be better as I just finished building a project with Sapele last night and hadn't really decided on a finish yet.
I stopped into one of their locations passing through AZ. I would recommend anyone to stop by. The quality and prices were unlike I've seen anywhere. I'm super excited to start my next projects with such wonderful lumber.
I love your channel for so many reasons, not the least of which your good taste in music. Not only do I get great woodworking tips, but I feel like I’m watching an episode of ‘Firefly’. Never stop the signal.
Mark, I’ve been a long long time fan of your straight to the point and easy to understand videos. Just wanted to say thank you! Ps- those are some beautiful ribbon sapele!
I’m so glad I came across your videos. I’ve been interested in wood working for a while now, and have seemed to have trouble finding a good place to have a workshop so I may do with what I had the great outdoors a storage unit and random projects. Your information has been incredibly helpful, especially because the company I work for in Payson Arizona has recently shown interest in cabinets and wood refinishing, probably because of me having spoke about being interested in woodworking. Reason I say that last comment is because he got a wood cleaning and conditioning for White oak cabinets and then handed me the job. I am currently living in a garage where I work and sleep. me being me I can be real tedious to a point of perfection, not a bad trait for a woodworker, but arguably a trait that can go without or can become disastrous for people who don’t see the fine detail or take the fine detail into consideration. With that being said, I have this white oak cabinet door project. My boss bought feed-n-wax and watco rejuvenating oil. His expressions about this project, where we just are going to clean up the word, and then wipe on some of the rejuvenating oil followed by the feed-n-wax. Looking at the finished product I feel like the feed-n-wax is plenty saving a massive step on having to put rejuvenating oil on 60+ cabinet doors. What are your thoughts on throwing out the rejuvenating oil and just using the feed-n-wax???? Also, I spotted a bunch of scratches from when they transported the doors to my place and mention to him that I could send it down lately or something, but having seen how deep the scratches go, I feel like a similar colored wood filler would do just fine, but what do I put on after the wood filler do I put on a oil or do I put on a polyurethane coat? I said polyurethane because I see bubbles from where the polyurethane has worn down and created air pockets so I am canceling out that this wood was sealed up with any type of oil or maybe it was but it also had a finish clearcoat put over it. I’m just not sure what oil be used before the clearcoat. Also, with that being said, would it be safe for me to lightly sand out the bubbles and reapply a polyurethane or should I just apply some of the wax? By the way, thank you for putting out these videos live in Arizona and has lived in Tempe Scottsdale, part of Phoenix, my whole life. I never knew that this store existed and I sure wished I would have seen the store sooner. But now that I am finally getting into the woodworking and with a company that seems to want to take on projects I want to be able to impress my boss with knowledge and technique. He is unaware of that way we can impress customers and bring in more work.
Love your videos and your lumber, Mark. I get your stuff shipped to Georgia, and it always arrives in great condition. Plus, the boards y’all pick out for my orders are top notch. Thanks for the instruction and the raw materials!
What you do is amazing man! I'm starting a lumber yard with my dad in the netherlands. I'm learning alot about wood and its a beautiful product. Your vídeos help alot. Thank you man
2:09 types of oil finishes 2:17 oil wax finishes -- forgiving; protective for furniture and flooring 3:56 drying oils -- absorbs into fibers; provides some protection 6:57 oil-based varnish (brush-on polyurethane) -- more time/effort; allows build up of hard, durable finish 8:28 food-safe finishes -- for any food contact surface; reapply often
Great video ... one thing to note is odie’s oil is also all natural and food safe ... so technically that could go in two of the categories, not just hard wax finish. Keep up the great videos!
Exactly right! I’ve used odies on cutting boards with great success! I’ve started preferring Rubio on a table top for a harder feeling finish but odies is so pleasant to work with. I feel it just take a little more babying and buffing until it’s all cured to get a good hard non streaked finish.
Have you ever done any ammonia fuming of white oak? If so would you consider doing a video on what you know about it? Your videos the most informative I’ve watched
Thanks Mark for another informative and inspiring video. I am eagerly awaiting the weather to warm up so that I can get out there and make some sawdust again
Very informative. Thank you. I have one question that I can't find an answer to. I have a huge home built outdoor charcoal BBQ with exposed iron grille that I want to cover with plywood against rain. Commercial covers won't fit. I was told that Danish oil, once dry, is food safe, and gives UV protection. When the cover is on the grille it would touch the grille, so food safe is a good idea.
I've been experimenting a lot with wood finishes for guitars. I've found water based aniline dyes excellent for coloring. For clearcoat, linseed seems to dry gummy, and tung dries soft. Lac (lacquer, shellac) dries hard. Then you have your synthetics: poly, enamel, and acrylic. enamel goes on thicker than acrylic, with the associated longer drying time. Results from poly, lacquer, enamel, and acrylic are all similar, varying mostly in ease of use, how quickly they build, drying time, and cost. both spray lacquer and spray acrylic are easy to use and dry fast, but build slow. poly and enamel go on thicker, thus requiring more drying time, but they build up faster. Spray lacquer was the cheapest stuff at the local home improvement place as of yesterday at about $4 a can. Enamel was a few pennies more. I picked up a total of 18 can of lacquer and enamel. For raw wood like fretboards, it seems the active ingredient in fretboard oils is mineral oil. I'm currently experimenting with low viscosity human grade mineral oil (90 viscosity, USP quality), with very promising early results. It goes on thin, and penetrates well. Its totally transparent, and does not tint the wood at all. When it comes to finishes and oily woods, such as rosewood, not all finishes adhere well. Experimentation is called for. Lacquer may adhere better than finishes such as enamel. And acrylic may stick where lacquer won't. Shellac is a possibility as a pre-sealer - but I have yet to try it. When it comes to raw oily woods, these days I'm experimenting with dyed raw rosewood finished with mineral oil. In the past I've experimented with both clear and colored lacquered rosewood fretboards. Sanding and polishing are the final steps, followed by waxing and burnishing. And yes, waxing a polished clearcoat does have an effect.
Mark, what finish might you suggest for a guitar body and neck? The neck will have plenty of hand contact on it, while the body should have some level of durability. Thanks!
Question: What finish would you recommend for a padauk piece that will be potentially handled often (musical instrument) that will preserve both its finish and the vivid contrast of the color? Basically to protect but not darken
Awesome video. I'm building a workbench, laminated 2x4s for the top, 6'x30" with a bottom shelf. Which one of these would you recognize to finish with? I was thinking danish oil?
Hello Mark, Thanks for all of your very informative and well-organized videos! My home is about 40 years old. It has redwood tongue and grooved strip ceilings. The wood looks very matte in finish quality. I'm not sure what type of finish was used. What would you recommend for revitalizing of that wood? I want the finish to remain low gloss. Would tung oil work if there is already a sealer or coating?
I'm newer to your channel and enjoy your videos especially for beginners like myself. I purchased a bench this past summer and would like to protect it from the northeast winters and summers. What type of product should I use for acacia wood. I'm guessing it has already has some sort of finish on it. Thank you.
What sealant would you recommend for raw pine horse stall doors, that are under a 4' overhang? We want them to be the natural wood color, but protected from warping and uv rays.
Any suggestions on cedar? I'm leaning toward tung oil. Made my wife a small cedar slab table to use when sitting of the farm swing for charcuterie and wine... doubt we'll keep it outside though. Maybe tung oil, de-wax shellac and a poly?
Awesome information! Just so I'm sure, can you lay Arm-R-Seal over the top of Walrus Oil's Furniture Butter? I have a dining table project that I did the Furniture Butter on part of it before seeing your video. What a newbie move! 🙄
What the best way to finish or preserve a log? I don't want any waxy texture I'd want to keep it as natural feeling as possible. If not a finish whats the best way to do it?
I need to refinish a diningroom table from the 70's. mid-century modern type. The finish on there now is old and thin though intact. What would be good over it and how do I know what finish is on there now? I'm trying to ditch the glass that was on top and need a durable finish. thanks for your help
Great video!!! I make charcuterie boards and a customer wants to use these boards at a $$$$ restaurant. They need to clean the boards but the kitchen staff tends to treat every thing like metal pots and pans. Can you recommend a finish that can stand up to harsh cleaning.
Hi. Congrats for this awesome Channel. I'm loving it. Hey,,, Which finish would you recommend for wood-resin rings jewelery? You know people, we all just wash our hands wearing our rings. We don't take it off before. But these rings I'm making are wood. How would you finish - protect the rings? 😊 Thanks
Our $0.02: Depends on the wood. I’d rather just do a nice tung oil but it’ll require a reapplication once or twice a year. For longer lasting, perhaps a coating of epoxy…. But once it starts to degrade (one day it will) you’ll want to remove it all and do a new application.
I build up a computer table in Indian teak(sagwan) , i am thinking to just pore linseed finish oil on it and wipe it of , what's your opinion? Please share.
Well done and good information. I've used every wood finish known to mankind. That said, the BEST finish is ODIE'S period in my 40 year experience. It's no more complicated than that. Any other finish is a waste of time.
First, your videos are great and always informative. What do you recommend for red cedar outdoor furniture that will be left outside year around in Michigan? Thanks for your help.
Great video!! I really like the results I've been achieving from hard wax oils lately. I like the ease of application and the natural finish these produce. I do find that after a week many of my projects with hard wax oil seem to have dry areas or appear to need more product. I'm applying the oil with a soft putty applicator spreading it on the project. Allowing it to dry and buffing. Then repeating this step again once or twice. Then finishing with the same manufactures Wax topcoat. Some projects still seem to soak up all the product and have dry spots. My first inclination is that I'm not using enough of the product. The Hard wax oils are at the top of the price range compared to the other products you mentioned so using them more sparingly is natural. You mentioned at the end of the video appealing a topcoat of Shellac. Would you recommend any topcoat to a Hard wax oil like "Odie's" other than Wax? Thanks so much for producing these videos, you are by far the best Woodworking content creator on UA-cam for these topics.
that's a really good question, you should be able to just touch up the areas that need more without doing an entire coat on the whole project. Buffing might do the trick, too.
More videos, please! - if request help, could you do a video on Afrormosia? I'm thinking of doing it for a countertop and wouldn't mind some woodworker's source advice!
Aw bummer, we're not going to get around to making a vid on that one for a while. But it would *definitely* make a gorgeous counter top. It's also the right density and toughness for that application. I don't think you can go wrong with it.
It was a couple of things. Winter cut walnut is pretty good about keeping the bark attached. But not all woods are, so there’s that piece. Just be aware. But it’s sealed with just spray lacquer
Building a baby crib and was planning on Tung oil with a possible thinner. Would you recommend me mixing poly to start or as a top coat? Oh and also love your video!
I have exterior mahogany French doors that are covered by a porch. I put 3 coats of tung oil on them. Should I put something else as the top coat to protect from weather exposure? Since they are covered they are not hit with direct rain but do get indirect sun and cold/heat.
Appreciate your video's .. Which of these products would be best to use on a cedar dresser? I don't want to seal in the cedar scent. I want to give some protection and make the wood grain pop. TIA
Inside the dresser, don’t use a finish if you want the scent of cedar. But on the outside? Hard to say, but possibly the hard wax oil, once it dries it should have no odor and let the cedar scent through
I always appreciated when you put out new videos! Question...what finish would you recommend for a birdhouse made out of white oak? Which one will keep it protected longest outdoors?
Well..... paint will keep it protected the longest. But just get an exterior oil, apply about 3 coats, and try to hang it so it doesn't get a ton of sun. That should work for a few years and then you can re-coat it.
I will soon be moving to AZ! What is a good city to start my woodworking hobby? I’d like to have easy access to lumber suppliers, I’ve noticed a lot of woodworkers in AZ we’re very excited to get out there.
Mark, love the videos--sooo helpful! You mentioned shellac in this video. Here in California they've outlawed the use of a number of solvents (denatured alcohol, Naptha, MEK, etc.) and about all that is left is mineral spirits, paint thinner, and acetone. What can I use to cut/thin shellac when denatured alcohol is not available?
I can’t even find Mineral Spirits, DA or Naptha in CA anymore 😳. To find alcohol for thinning shellac, I recommend finding a Beauty Store that carries such items.
Great video! Could I use 99% food safe isopropyl alcool as a solvant for tung oil?? I have a few gallons handy (thanks to the coronavirus) and I intend to use walnut slices to make chopping boards for the kitchen.
G'day from Australia, firstly great video cleared up some of the finish coat I would like to achieve and I use grapeseed oil and then a coat of beeswax and mineral oil to finish my chopping boards the grapeseed oil will not go rancid like other oils such as vegetable oil, sunflower oil, but never use a olive oil as it will make your board sticky cheers
Still curious about "black epoxy" as used to fill cracks or knot breaks in dark hardwoods. I've never seen it advertised as such! But I've got tones of aged cherry "cookies", all of which, despite my linseed oil attempts, have cracked over time. HELP!
It’ll change your life! There are a couple of ways to go about it. You can buy black epoxy (System Three is a brand for example) or you can use clear epoxy and add a little black colorant when you mix it. Epoxy colorants are a whole topic unto itself, some are liquid, some are powders (like mica). The choices are many, and none are necessarily wrong
I thought 100% Tongue oil was food safe as well? From what I have been seeing from other UA-camrs, it is one of the best oils to use for coating your Cutting Board. The drawback though seems to be that it takes days or even weeks to dry between coats.
Is there any oil finish that will NOT change the natural wood color so much? Want to keep the natural/light color as much as possible. Let me know. Thanks.
I noticed you didn't mention Total Boat. They make fantastic finish material and if you go to Oldave100 on UA-cam, Eric Rhoten mentions that product quite a bit. Since both of you are in Arizona, you might want to call him.
First of your videos that I've watched and wow was that super informative. Thank you for an excellent breakdown for someone who is really intimidated by the vast world of finishes. Thank you sir! 👏 👍
Check out all their content. I've learned so much!
Liked the video and a good general overview. Of course there are so many options when itt comes to finishing. Bob Fleshed has great books on the subject. I use HVLP speaking using water based polyurethane for a lot of shop projects. Perhaps a video on this?
This video is always great
Thank You . Right to the point thank you and no no music thank you.
*Hello there, I have requested your DVDs, for simpler and quicker approach to manufacture a shed **Allmy.Tips** I trust the substance are as you guaranteed it will be. Just I'm worried with the substance, it won't be anything but difficult to settle on a decision from the various plans.*
Hands down the Best Channel for beginner wood workers. Love the videos Mark, Keep 'em coming.
I second Chris Windberg's comments. All the info on the internet can be overwhelming and contradictory. This video told me everything I wanted to know about these finishes. I'll be ordering from Woodworker's Source to keep the great videos coming. Thank you!
Thank you for addressing the combustible rag thing. Honestly that is why when I was a new woodworker I avoided oil finishes for years, until I felt comfortable and confident with the fire safety part.
Agree, excellent information
Had to laugh at the comment about the free instructions on the back. Another great video, your presentation is awesome, and the timing could not be better as I just finished building a project with Sapele last night and hadn't really decided on a finish yet.
I stopped into one of their locations passing through AZ. I would recommend anyone to stop by. The quality and prices were unlike I've seen anywhere. I'm super excited to start my next projects with such wonderful lumber.
Awesome thanks for visiting!
I love your channel for so many reasons, not the least of which your good taste in music. Not only do I get great woodworking tips, but I feel like I’m watching an episode of ‘Firefly’. Never stop the signal.
haha! Love Firefly!
@@WoodworkersSourcecom Gorramn right.
Very informative & straight to the point. Thanks.
Mark, I’ve been a long long time fan of your straight to the point and easy to understand videos. Just wanted to say thank you! Ps- those are some beautiful ribbon sapele!
The only think I really dislike on this channel is the fact you post so infrequently! ;-)
For that we sincerely apologize 😕😕😕
Outstanding presentation Mark. I’ll be back for more. Thank you from So Cal.
Thank you for your straight, forward, no nonsense approach to your videos.
Thanks again for another informative video. Really enjoy these videos.
This was an absolutely fantastic video that really keeps it simple and honest.
Loved this!
Love your videos, Mark. Thanks for sharing your knowledge and being a great teacher/presenter. Love Woodworking Source!
Mark, great informative video. Thank you, for the explanation.
Very helpful thank you so much
Excellent and concise information. Thank you Mark and Woodworkers Source!
Our pleasure!
Always great content! If I didn't already have a great local hardwood supplier you'd be my jam!
I’m so glad I came across your videos. I’ve been interested in wood working for a while now, and have seemed to have trouble finding a good place to have a workshop so I may do with what I had the great outdoors a storage unit and random projects.
Your information has been incredibly helpful, especially because the company I work for in Payson Arizona has recently shown interest in cabinets and wood refinishing, probably because of me having spoke about being interested in woodworking. Reason I say that last comment is because he got a wood cleaning and conditioning for White oak cabinets and then handed me the job. I am currently living in a garage where I work and sleep. me being me I can be real tedious to a point of perfection, not a bad trait for a woodworker, but arguably a trait that can go without or can become disastrous for people who don’t see the fine detail or take the fine detail into consideration.
With that being said, I have this white oak cabinet door project. My boss bought feed-n-wax and watco rejuvenating oil. His expressions about this project, where we just are going to clean up the word, and then wipe on some of the rejuvenating oil followed by the feed-n-wax. Looking at the finished product I feel like the feed-n-wax is plenty saving a massive step on having to put rejuvenating oil on 60+ cabinet doors.
What are your thoughts on throwing out the rejuvenating oil and just using the feed-n-wax????
Also, I spotted a bunch of scratches from when they transported the doors to my place and mention to him that I could send it down lately or something, but having seen how deep the scratches go, I feel like a similar colored wood filler would do just fine, but what do I put on after the wood filler do I put on a oil or do I put on a polyurethane coat? I said polyurethane because I see bubbles from where the polyurethane has worn down and created air pockets so I am canceling out that this wood was sealed up with any type of oil or maybe it was but it also had a finish clearcoat put over it. I’m just not sure what oil be used before the clearcoat.
Also, with that being said, would it be safe for me to lightly sand out the bubbles and reapply a polyurethane or should I just apply some of the wax?
By the way, thank you for putting out these videos live in Arizona and has lived in Tempe Scottsdale, part of Phoenix, my whole life. I never knew that this store existed and I sure wished I would have seen the store sooner. But now that I am finally getting into the woodworking and with a company that seems to want to take on projects I want to be able to impress my boss with knowledge and technique. He is unaware of that way we can impress customers and bring in more work.
Awesome. Exactly what I needed. Thanks!
Always enjoy these informative videos you do , thanks for putting them together Mark .
Love your videos and your lumber, Mark. I get your stuff shipped to Georgia, and it always arrives in great condition. Plus, the boards y’all pick out for my orders are top notch. Thanks for the instruction and the raw materials!
Great video! I used Odies oil and wax on Bolivian rosewood recently and looks amazing !
Your videos are excellent... all of them. Keep it up
What you do is amazing man! I'm starting a lumber yard with my dad in the netherlands. I'm learning alot about wood and its a beautiful product. Your vídeos help alot. Thank you man
2:09 types of oil finishes
2:17 oil wax finishes -- forgiving; protective for furniture and flooring
3:56 drying oils -- absorbs into fibers; provides some protection
6:57 oil-based varnish (brush-on polyurethane) -- more time/effort; allows build up of hard, durable finish
8:28 food-safe finishes -- for any food contact surface; reapply often
Great job explaining everything thank you
Top quality videos every time. Great content and learned a lot!
Great video ... one thing to note is odie’s oil is also all natural and food safe ... so technically that could go in two of the categories, not just hard wax finish. Keep up the great videos!
Exactly right! I’ve used odies on cutting boards with great success! I’ve started preferring Rubio on a table top for a harder feeling finish but odies is so pleasant to work with. I feel it just take a little more babying and buffing until it’s all cured to get a good hard non streaked finish.
Have you ever done any ammonia fuming of white oak? If so would you consider doing a video on what you know about it? Your videos the most informative I’ve watched
That’s a great idea
Thanks Mark for another informative and inspiring video. I am eagerly awaiting the weather to warm up so that I can get out there and make some sawdust again
Man, I so appreciate the videos you share. Super informational and to the point. Plus, you just do a great job at explaining things. Thanks so much!
Hi, do you think tung oil mixed with solvent (something like bumblechutes) wood finish would be good on solid hardwood white oak floors?
Very informative. Thank you. I have one question that I can't find an answer to. I have a huge home built outdoor charcoal BBQ with exposed iron grille that I want to cover with plywood against rain. Commercial covers won't fit. I was told that Danish oil, once dry, is food safe, and gives UV protection. When the cover is on the grille it would touch the grille, so food safe is a good idea.
I've been experimenting a lot with wood finishes for guitars. I've found water based aniline dyes excellent for coloring. For clearcoat, linseed seems to dry gummy, and tung dries soft. Lac (lacquer, shellac) dries hard. Then you have your synthetics: poly, enamel, and acrylic. enamel goes on thicker than acrylic, with the associated longer drying time. Results from poly, lacquer, enamel, and acrylic are all similar, varying mostly in ease of use, how quickly they build, drying time, and cost. both spray lacquer and spray acrylic are easy to use and dry fast, but build slow. poly and enamel go on thicker, thus requiring more drying time, but they build up faster. Spray lacquer was the cheapest stuff at the local home improvement place as of yesterday at about $4 a can. Enamel was a few pennies more. I picked up a total of 18 can of lacquer and enamel. For raw wood like fretboards, it seems the active ingredient in fretboard oils is mineral oil. I'm currently experimenting with low viscosity human grade mineral oil (90 viscosity, USP quality), with very promising early results. It goes on thin, and penetrates well. Its totally transparent, and does not tint the wood at all. When it comes to finishes and oily woods, such as rosewood, not all finishes adhere well. Experimentation is called for. Lacquer may adhere better than finishes such as enamel. And acrylic may stick where lacquer won't. Shellac is a possibility as a pre-sealer - but I have yet to try it. When it comes to raw oily woods, these days I'm experimenting with dyed raw rosewood finished with mineral oil. In the past I've experimented with both clear and colored lacquered rosewood fretboards. Sanding and polishing are the final steps, followed by waxing and burnishing. And yes, waxing a polished clearcoat does have an effect.
Another great video Mark. Jammed with good, easy to understand, information. Thank you. Keep up the good work. 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
When you use the Danish oil do you need to use sanding sealer and wood grain filler???
My project is a blackwalnut solid body guitar. 👋
Im doing a coffee table using watco danish oil. After the oil finsih do i have to use anything on top of that? Using it for the first time.
Mark, what finish might you suggest for a guitar body and neck? The neck will have plenty of hand contact on it, while the body should have some level of durability. Thanks!
If I B.L.O. that has dried inside a container, is there a way to rehydrate it so I can use it?
Question:
What finish would you recommend for a padauk piece that will be potentially handled often (musical instrument) that will preserve both its finish and the vivid contrast of the color? Basically to protect but not darken
What would you recommend to use on walnut cabinetry?
Would the Arm-R-Seal be best for wooden coasters?
Awesome video. I'm building a workbench, laminated 2x4s for the top, 6'x30" with a bottom shelf. Which one of these would you recognize to finish with? I was thinking danish oil?
Hello Mark, Thanks for all of your very informative and well-organized videos! My home is about 40 years old. It has redwood tongue and grooved strip ceilings. The wood looks very matte in finish quality. I'm not sure what type of finish was used. What would you recommend for revitalizing of that wood? I want the finish to remain low gloss. Would tung oil work if there is already a sealer or coating?
I'm newer to your channel and enjoy your videos especially for beginners like myself. I purchased a bench this past summer and would like to protect it from the northeast winters and summers. What type of product should I use for acacia wood. I'm guessing it has already has some sort of finish on it. Thank you.
What sealant would you recommend for raw pine horse stall doors, that are under a 4' overhang? We want them to be the natural wood color, but protected from warping and uv rays.
Any suggestions on cedar? I'm leaning toward tung oil. Made my wife a small cedar slab table to use when sitting of the farm swing for charcuterie and wine... doubt we'll keep it outside though. Maybe tung oil, de-wax shellac and a poly?
Awesome information! Just so I'm sure, can you lay Arm-R-Seal over the top of Walrus Oil's Furniture Butter? I have a dining table project that I did the Furniture Butter on part of it before seeing your video. What a newbie move! 🙄
Can I stain my pine flooring a darker color and then use danish or tung oil top coat?
Help please which clear coat should I use on a swing set. We’re I live it rains most of the time. Please help
What the best way to finish or preserve a log? I don't want any waxy texture I'd want to keep it as natural feeling as possible. If not a finish whats the best way to do it?
Thank you man,!
I need to refinish a diningroom table from the 70's. mid-century modern type. The finish on there now is old and thin though intact. What would be good over it and how do I know what finish is on there now? I'm trying to ditch the glass that was on top and need a durable finish. thanks for your help
Knowing all of that, I’d say get a paint/finish stripper (easier than sanding!) and just apply a new finish
Great video!!! I make charcuterie boards and a customer wants to use these boards at a $$$$ restaurant. They need to clean the boards but the kitchen staff tends to treat every thing like metal pots and pans. Can you recommend a finish that can stand up to harsh cleaning.
Super video
Hi! I'm making wood jewelry what oil would you recommend for that?
Should I use wood polish(oil) on the furniture have mother of pearl inlay? Making the connect between wood and mother of pearl inlay are break?
Thanks
can i apply oil on a stain finish?
Hi. Congrats for this awesome Channel.
I'm loving it.
Hey,,,
Which finish would you recommend for wood-resin rings jewelery? You know people, we all just wash our hands wearing our rings. We don't take it off before.
But these rings I'm making are wood. How would you finish - protect the rings? 😊 Thanks
Our $0.02: Depends on the wood. I’d rather just do a nice tung oil but it’ll require a reapplication once or twice a year. For longer lasting, perhaps a coating of epoxy…. But once it starts to degrade (one day it will) you’ll want to remove it all and do a new application.
Mark, could you do a finishing video on Limba White .
I build up a computer table in Indian teak(sagwan) , i am thinking to just pore linseed finish oil on it and wipe it of , what's your opinion? Please share.
Well done and good information. I've used every wood finish known to mankind. That said, the BEST finish is ODIE'S period in my 40 year experience. It's no more complicated than that. Any other finish is a waste of time.
First, your videos are great and always informative. What do you recommend for red cedar outdoor furniture that will be left outside year around in Michigan? Thanks for your help.
Great video!! I really like the results I've been achieving from hard wax oils lately. I like the ease of application and the natural finish these produce. I do find that after a week many of my projects with hard wax oil seem to have dry areas or appear to need more product. I'm applying the oil with a soft putty applicator spreading it on the project. Allowing it to dry and buffing. Then repeating this step again once or twice. Then finishing with the same manufactures Wax topcoat. Some projects still seem to soak up all the product and have dry spots. My first inclination is that I'm not using enough of the product. The Hard wax oils are at the top of the price range compared to the other products you mentioned so using them more sparingly is natural. You mentioned at the end of the video appealing a topcoat of Shellac. Would you recommend any topcoat to a Hard wax oil like "Odie's" other than Wax? Thanks so much for producing these videos, you are by far the best Woodworking content creator on UA-cam for these topics.
that's a really good question, you should be able to just touch up the areas that need more without doing an entire coat on the whole project. Buffing might do the trick, too.
Also, to answer your question, I don't believe a different clear top coat will adhere to it due to the wax. Haven't tried it though
More videos, please! - if request help, could you do a video on Afrormosia? I'm thinking of doing it for a countertop and wouldn't mind some woodworker's source advice!
Aw bummer, we're not going to get around to making a vid on that one for a while. But it would *definitely* make a gorgeous counter top. It's also the right density and toughness for that application. I don't think you can go wrong with it.
Thank you for the info, very helpful. I do want to ask how you sealed the bark on that Walnut round.
It was a couple of things. Winter cut walnut is pretty good about keeping the bark attached. But not all woods are, so there’s that piece. Just be aware. But it’s sealed with just spray lacquer
Soo confused! Need to finish rubber wood butcher block top for my island. Already sanded and holding up remodel.
What is the curing time for the hard wax oil? And also the food grade oil, for example a cutting board?
Depends on the manufacturer. Dry time is often 24 hours with cure time up to 30 days.
Building a baby crib and was planning on Tung oil with a possible thinner. Would you recommend me mixing poly to start or as a top coat? Oh and also love your video!
I have exterior mahogany French doors that are covered by a porch. I put 3 coats of tung oil on them. Should I put something else as the top coat to protect from weather exposure? Since they are covered they are not hit with direct rain but do get indirect sun and cold/heat.
I think what you’ve done will be fine. But just expect to refresh the doors with a new coat every year or two
Hi Mark, where would you categorize a gel urethane like “emmets good stuff” ?
And thanks for all the great videos!
It’s another oil based varnish. Very nice too. Dries hard and tough but easy to apply
Appreciate your video's .. Which of these products would be best to use on a cedar dresser? I don't want to seal in the cedar scent. I want to give some protection and make the wood grain pop. TIA
Inside the dresser, don’t use a finish if you want the scent of cedar. But on the outside? Hard to say, but possibly the hard wax oil, once it dries it should have no odor and let the cedar scent through
Great info! Can lacguer thinner be used to clean up or thin the oils?
Unfortunately, no
I always appreciated when you put out new videos! Question...what finish would you recommend for a birdhouse made out of white oak? Which one will keep it protected longest outdoors?
Well..... paint will keep it protected the longest. But just get an exterior oil, apply about 3 coats, and try to hang it so it doesn't get a ton of sun. That should work for a few years and then you can re-coat it.
I will soon be moving to AZ! What is a good city to start my woodworking hobby? I’d like to have easy access to lumber suppliers, I’ve noticed a lot of woodworkers in AZ we’re very excited to get out there.
Mark, love the videos--sooo helpful! You mentioned shellac in this video. Here in California they've outlawed the use of a number of solvents (denatured alcohol, Naptha, MEK, etc.) and about all that is left is mineral spirits, paint thinner, and acetone. What can I use to cut/thin shellac when denatured alcohol is not available?
I can’t even find Mineral Spirits, DA or Naptha in CA anymore 😳. To find alcohol for thinning shellac, I recommend finding a Beauty Store that carries such items.
I used some boiled linseed oil on project (one coat). Can I go over it with a hard wax oil?
Sure thing, it will work fine
Great video! Could I use 99% food safe isopropyl alcool as a solvant for tung oil?? I have a few gallons handy (thanks to the coronavirus) and I intend to use walnut slices to make chopping boards for the kitchen.
Haven't tried isopropyl, not sure
@@WoodworkersSourcecom Thanks for the reply, I will give it a try on a scrap piece and will let you know.
G'day from Australia, firstly great video cleared up some of the finish coat I would like to achieve and I use grapeseed oil and then a coat of beeswax and mineral oil to finish my chopping boards the grapeseed oil will not go rancid like other oils such as vegetable oil, sunflower oil, but never use a olive oil as it will make your board sticky cheers
yep sticky is no good 👍
Quick question for you, Can I apply a coat of Polyurethane over boiled linseed oil? Thx.
Yes, you can. wait for that oil to dry about week though
I’m surprised you didn’t mention the good ‘ol 333 finish. 1/3 BLO + 1/3 Mineral Spirits + 1/3 Wipe on Poly of Choice. Great finish like Tru Oil.
Ah, yes, that's a good point! 👍
Still curious about "black epoxy" as used to fill cracks or knot breaks in dark hardwoods. I've never seen it advertised as such! But I've got tones of aged cherry "cookies", all of which, despite my linseed oil attempts, have cracked over time. HELP!
It’ll change your life! There are a couple of ways to go about it. You can buy black epoxy (System Three is a brand for example) or you can use clear epoxy and add a little black colorant when you mix it.
Epoxy colorants are a whole topic unto itself, some are liquid, some are powders (like mica). The choices are many, and none are necessarily wrong
Can you address lumber prices and how its affecting the woodoworking trades,hobbyist ,etc. In comparison to the big box stores?.
Awesome video! Quick point, Make sure your respirator has a vapor cartridge. A pink cartridge won't do shit.
Is pure tung oil food safe?
Once it’s cured, yes. If it’s still a concern, choose an FDA approved wood finish.
T video. To the point and on it.
The last time I used an oil finish the smell stayed for a little over a month. Is this normal?
Yes that’s pretty normal
How about Waterlox?
For the food safe oils it would be great if you added the cheapest widely available everywhere Mineral Oil
haha, yes, that's a good point!
I thought 100% Tongue oil was food safe as well? From what I have been seeing from other UA-camrs, it is one of the best oils to use for coating your Cutting Board. The drawback though seems to be that it takes days or even weeks to dry between coats.
Is there any oil finish that will NOT change the natural wood color so much? Want to keep the natural/light color as much as possible. Let me know. Thanks.
Unfortunately, no. They’re all pretty much Amber in color
I noticed you didn't mention Total Boat. They make fantastic finish material and if you go to Oldave100 on UA-cam, Eric Rhoten mentions that product quite a bit. Since both of you are in Arizona, you might want to call him.
Is it true that virtually all wood finishes are food safe when fully cured?
Pretty much. The difference is in whether or not they’ve been FDA certified
👍👍
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