Eric, the scoring looks a lot like a bad injector washing raw fuel down the cylinder walls. I've seen it a time or 2 at work repairing fork lifts. Look at the injectors again, you'll notice one is wet, and black as can be. The rest are kinda krispy brown.
If there were excess fuel in the cylinder 1) It would quickly cause cylinder hydrolocking 2) We would see lots of fuel present in the cylinder, the cylinder looks bone dry. I would venture a guess, moisture got into cylinder, rusted the piston rings and fused the ring(s) to piston, gouging the cylinder walls It appears this engine sat around for a long time with moisture in it, when the engine was restarted that's when the piston damage occurred.
45:22 - yes, crank worth money. They crack and are sought after😉 BTW - To lock crank from rotation - put a block of wood between counterweight and block wall. Super simple, wood protects everything from dents.
The crank is going into 2 peaces in this V6 that`s why it is so popular. Some POS, but the new 3.0 ltr Ford as mentioned is almost the same engine but another crank!!..... but what`s the different?
I work for a non-franchise specialist who change a about a dozen or so Land Rover/Range Rover engines a year (we're the only shop around this area who do it for non-dealer prices) and we see one of these every 4-6 months. Wow. Where do you start with this engine platform... I feel the pain of having to remove all the pipes and hoses and tubes and brackets and STUFF. It usually takes our engine tech a day to get the engine out and another day just to *find the long block* under all that crap! It's even worse in the truck. The original design came from Peugeot/Citroen (PSA, now a division of Stelantis) which is where the Lion name come from (it's Peugeot's brand logo) and was part of an extensive diesel engine partnership between Ford and PSA at that time which is still going as far as I know. The Land Rover version originally shipped as a 2.7l engine with a single turbo in 2005 in the Discovery 3 (LR3 in NA markets) and Range Rover Sport. It... wasn't exactly a rocket ship in a 2.5 ton car but they were decent engines that did okay fuel mileage for a large SUV diesel and were a big improvement on previous generation engines. The original 2.7l variant wasn't a bad engine but it had an archiles heel like all Land Rover engines seem to do. It had issues with the tensioner mounting on the oil pump casting breaking off, usually it'd crack during a belt change when the tech unbolted the tensioner that'd been on there for years (you saw how tight that bolt was!) then, after the belt change, would break off under tension, leaving the timing belt loose and catastrophic engine failure. A lot of shops initially got blamed for this but eventually Land Rover admitted it had a problem and recommended a new oil pump on a range of models... but attempt 1 didn't totally fix it, nor did attempt 2... I think the pump was on design 3 or 4 by the 3.0l. The 2.7l was also plagued by problems with sticking EGR valves, they'd soot up, jam the actuator and lead to heavy breathing, running rich, lots of smoke, and eventually the end of the plunger valve sheared off. I dread to think how many pairs of those we've sold or changed over the years. The 3.0 litre LR-TDV6 is well known to spin rod bearings. They don't have locator tabs like you see on a lot of rob bearings, and if bad oil is used or the interval is stretched out too long they 'grab' and spin on the crank. This is aggravated by the fact the oil pumps on the 3.0l also get weaker over time (I don't know the details, but it's well documented) and the oiling starts to fail. All a recipe for disaster. Also the first 1-2 production year 3.0l LR engines had a habit of blowing front crank oil seals out of the oil pump resulting in it it pumping all your oil into the road, not into the engine. You should be thankful you had the engine on a stand. The rear fuel pump belt is a nightmare top do in the car, you have to do it 'blind' effectively. The standard procedure for doing any major unit changes (access for the turbos, engine change) requires lifting the body off the car. On the Gen 1 Range Rover Sport and Discovery 3/4 (LR3/4) it's actually only 1/2 a day for an experienced tech to pull the body off. One reason there's so much crap bolted to the engine is it can't be bolted to the engine bay because it has to be modular. The engines were fitted at the factory fully dressed with all the pipes and hoses and stuff attached, and then the body was dropped on over them and they were just plugged in. Great for manufacturing efficiency. An absolute nightmare for after-sales service work! I'm not saying this is at all connected, but the long blocks are regularly on back-order for these engines. But I think that goes for a lot of JLR's engines. This engine was phased out in I think 2020 and replaced by a 3.0l twin-turbo straight-6 'Ingenium' JLR engine. It's too early to see if that has had any dramas yet, it's widely used so if it goes wrong we'll find out pretty fast! Just... don't get me started on the early JLR Ingenium 4-cylinder engines... hoo boy.
Kudos to this comment. I have a 2013 XFS 3.0d and I’ve learned so much about these engines. My theory on the engine failures is that because of the heavy weight and 4wd system there’s loads more load on everything compared to a non 4wd and a car that weight over half a ton less.
I’m thinking of getting a 2019 or newer diesel LR is there a good engine model and year combo I should look for or am I rolling the dice with all of them?
@@drewhalliday8531 I have a 2018 Discovery Td6 and it's been completely fine as of 70k miles. Many of the issues are due to the ridiculously long service intervals LR recommended which can cause premature engine wear and crankshaft failure. I change my oil at 5k intervals and use diesel additive just to be on the safe side. Couldn't be happier with this engine.
Hello Eric: You gave a big clue when you mentioned the Lion. My educated guess is that this engine was in a land rover that was used for offroading and mudbogging. They boiled it trying to get it out of a mud or swamp hole and damaged it. Probably not enough to kill the engine completely but enough to require replacemebt.The hole in the oil pan another good clue to typical offroading damage.I would say they STEAMED it to death. Henc all the water vapor condensation rust pitting. Just this old guy witn many off road vehicle trips ending poorly, putting his 2 cents worth in before 2024. Happy New Year and continued successin 2024.😂
Eric, just found the channel a month or so ago. I retired from the auto repair business 3 years ago after 50+ years. I started as a VW apprentice in 1968 and retired as Porsche shop foreman. I've seen and repaired my share of blown engines but you take the damage to another level! Some of the dumb designs I've seen flabbergast me, the timing belt running in oil comes to mind. Keep up the great content. Wonderful entertainment and love your humor/sarcasm. Scott
It was termoflot in the middle of engine, which mixed water in oil through time, there are known issues with these engines. Water damage on axles and chains was due to condesation of water vapors from oil, when cold outside. So it was working on poor lubrication and one bad injector which melted piston. Junk
There's a problem with the injectors for these engines that can total them. If one injector sticks open then the cylinder it feeds runs too hot and kills the piston. Helping a friend find a Disco 4 earlier this year there were 4 or 5 advertised in our area at about 30% market price, still running with the seller generally saying they didn't know what the problem was but the engine wouldn't run right. A bit of research soon revealed these were not a bargain, the cost to fix it would just about match the market value.
It might also look like it had possibly a failing EGR cooler as well from all the light rust pitting in the bores. But yeah stuck injector is what it looks like on that one with all the scoring.
I seen this happen in the 3.0 Duramax a couple of times. To me it looks like injector failure…… only because only one cylinder was effected. If it was overheated it would be multiple cylinders with scarring like that. Injector failure is very common. Just my 2 cents. Happy new year Eric!!!!
Happy new year Eric! Thanks for all the great videos this year. Cannot wait to see what the future holds. Hope the channel grows even more. PS love the fire extinguisher watching over you
The engine has obviously overheated at some point causing that piston and bore damage,they do oversized pistons so a rebore and crankshaft grind would probably be OK. The problem is where all that water came from,it looks as though that engine has been run for some time with water in the oil because of all the rust,when water gets into the oil it usually emulsifies but there’s no indication of that,I would double check those cylinders for any signs of cracks in the cylinder block,it’s a bit of a mystery where that water came from and that needs to be thoroughly investigated before any money is spent on parts. If a crack is found in a cylinder wall dry liners can be fitted and standard pistons fitted, those camshafts will need replacement,this engine needs a lot of money spent on it but when compared to a new engine it will look like small change,maybe a new short engine might be a better option, it’s worth making the comparison between the price options when labour time is considered.
Eric, I want to thank you for all the great videos this year. I love watching them and I try never to miss a Saturday night show. I also talk about Importapart to my friends. Perhaps some day they will give you some business.
Very often those Oil pump gear/rotors are powdered/sintered metal construction, the gears arent usually machined afterwords- the only item that might be is overall thickness. Quite an interesting method to produce these gears.
I don’t know how you keep your cool tearing down these engines and keep from hurling stuff across the shop. I don’t know if it happens behind the scenes or what but you have the calmest personality of anyone tearing engines down I’ve ever seen, including me.
I always wanted to see one of these engines on your channel, awesome work man. The HP fuel pumps have a bronze bushing inside which breaks down, circulating swarf through both pumps and kills them in the end. Those plastic cam covers/intake manifolds crack, creating boost leaks. They get changed on the regular and that HP fuel line over the LH cover has to be 'repositioned' for the cover to be removed. Thanks and much respect from the UK. RIP; 15mm spanner 🔧, that bit was hilarious tbh. We had to make a tool to hold the crank by the ring of bolts to get that bastard loose. *Also, I'm told by an engine builder that the cam lobes are pressed on to the cam shaft. Great plan
Thanks for tearing down a 3.0 diesel Eric! I have the powerstroke version in my 2018 F150 and absolutely love it! I was just searching through your videos a couple days ago to see if you had ever torn down this engine. Thanks again!
Ford and PSA designed the lion engine for JLR and Peugeot people movers as 2.7l because psa didn’t want 3.0l JLR did. Ford built the engines for JLR. After Ford sold JLR they didn’t care about the engine problems until they thought it would be suitable for the F150 then fixed all the problems. 2.7 and 3l suffered from spun bearings while the 3l crank shaft kept breaking among other issues. Bearings were fixed with tabs and forget how they fixed the crank … think they increased diameter as the the engine was designed to be longitudinal and transverse so pretty tight. I think you have a good engine… well done you!
@@ClayCourtGuythe bearings still spin, the crank was fixed by changing it to a forged crank. None of the dimensions changed, including the tiny 14mm big end bearings
@@billyp4850 thanks for clarifying Billy. Surprised the tabs didn’t help … I thought the bearings spun then that blocked off the oil flow but I guess they need a reason to spin … maybe just the lack of bearing surface area.
@@ClayCourtGuy tabs don't stop bearings spinning, they're only there to make locating them during assembly foolproof. The tension of the bearing shell into the housing is what holds it in place
With the marks on the cam gear it's likely the belt was replaced. Part of the timing process is to loosen the cam bolts and once it's tensioned the bolts would be retightened. Who knows where the gear will land. I've done a few belts on the F150 so far haven't been able to get the bolts 100% back where they were I'm seeing on the F150 you shouldn't goich more than 100k on the timing belt. The belts are getting chewed up to the point they are smacking the cover. I think I'm one of the only people in the states that actually like doing belts on these little guys. I have a line around the block waiting for me to do their belts 😂.
I have one of these (well, earlier, transverse version) in a Citroen. Lion (Peugeots crest) was a PSA/Ford joint effort, so it shares a lot of features with Peugeot Diesels, it has a bit of a mixed reputation compared to the Pug 4 bangers, I think it's pretty much all the Ford bits that fail. Citroen recommendation for those belts is 180K km under "adverse conditions", which is pretty much anything if you read into it. Did it at 160K km (almost exaxtly 100k miles) on my first and it looked pretty OK, but it was a car doing mostly highway stuff. I've come around on belts in general, at least they are specced as maintenance items and you usually do the obvious stuff alongside (waterpump etc.), unlike chain tensioners which are specced for the "life of the engine" which translates into "their failure determines the life of your engine". The french have also heavier weight oil specced than Jag/LR, which reportedly helps a lot with the bearings not spinning during prolonged hard use, which is a thing with these.
I think that the engine has a much easier time in a car than in a big heavy 4x4. The gearing is higher and they spend more time in a high gear because of less drag. I'm using 5w40 now in my Jag.
@@PJ-om2wq I can't imagine they like towing all that much, narrow bearings and light oil are bad combo if you apply torque. OTOH, they can take the revs no problem, I've run mine north of 4k for hours and to be fair, doing those autobahn things was probably the original design brief for these and that's what lots of old timey diesels had problems with. But yeah, cost and size is probably not the only reason PSA uses an Iveco I4 as the 3L diesel option in their vans.
I was thinking the same. Ether someone did a t belt and got it wrong or it was a recycled engine bought from a wrecking yard. Might have been both. I work at a yard and have seen just about everything. Maybe. There is always tomorrow.
When I saw that I was thinking you would get out the timing belt instructions and check the cam timing. In the end, not the problem, but a cam being a tooth or two off would give a poor running engine. And thus, a replacement.
Great video…I have a 2016 td6 Range Rover and have just completed (my indy tech) timing belt service at 99k miles. Think landrover says 8 years or 105k miles. Lots of these early “lion” diesel engines (2016+) here in USA are now needing this service……pricy at Landrover dealer. Very interesting seeing this motor being stripped down.
I agree with one other comment as fuel wash from a hung open injector. As for the hole in the pan, some yards punch holes in everything to drain fluids as the process cars
two phrases used in military aircraft..."Normal wear & tear" and "Excessive wear & tear." Over heated Piston from bad injector that was stopped using before a torched piston.
Thankfully Blue survived his ordeal 👍 ratchet spanners(wrenches) can be replaced but Blue is for life. Thanks again Eric for another great teardown and here's wishing you and your family and everyone across the pond a very Happy New Year from a very wet and windy Nottingham 🇬🇧
Happy New Year Eric. I hope Santa brought you a 15mm to replace the one that you broke in the video. You really put the "Snap" in Snap-On with that one! :) Thanks as always for my Saturday night entertainment. As for why it failed? No clue here.
This is the TDV6 which means it's a single turbo application. The SD6 which is mid 2019+ is the twin turbo variation. Also the cranks were changed in 2018 to the upgraded version used in the F150.
Thanks for this one Eric. FWIW the 3.0 V6 diesels that came to the states roughly have performance stats of the Euro SDV6, 254 vs 256 HP. In the US, the 2017 version name changed form TD6 to SD6. Also US versions were not single turbo. All US versions per the spec sheet are twin turbo, albeit a sequential setup. Older versions of the Euro TDV6 2.7 were single turbo. In Europe the SD6 came in at 300 HP, the US SD6 remained at 254.
Thanks for the show! This poor engine had an injector fail; it spewed fuel, probably as a stream, on to the cylinder wall and the piston scraped it up to TDC when the then concentrated fuel ignited, always in the same spot - on the edge of the piston. The poor piston never had a chance. The driver heard knocking like gas engine preignition, but louder. The engine itself never overheated as only the one piston was affected. A spray test will reveal the offending injector; most likely it can be rebuilt and sold with the others. Happy New Year and thanks for your interesting shows.
Did you check to see if there was a failed EGR cooler? Those bearings ran with coolant contaminated oil. So, either coolant got into the lube system through the EGR cooler, or there was a a head gasket leak….
Happy new year Eric! Always love watching you tear into all different engines, I learn quite a bit from your videos! Are you able to source a Subaru H6 engine? 3.0L or 3.6L would make for an interesting tear down!
Rover refers the 3.0. as the "Lion". A thought about the pink paint- makes it the "pink panther' now! I'll let myself out now. Happy New Year everybody!
The timing gears had to have been repositioned by someone... the bolt head abrasions on the gears are separate. There would be skid marks from one circle to the next on all of them if they slid to a different position while running.
Theory: There were multiple signs of the engine having been running after the rust manifested, so i think the messed up cylinder was simply a high friction event because of rust in the cylinder. Tbh, i''m surprised the other pistons looked so relatively good. Also protip: Run a razor blade around the top of the cylinder to remove carbon before pulling the pistons, as i have seen multiple cases where the graphite coating on the pistons are damaged by the carbon deposits. And it also allows you to wiggle all the pistons out by hand.
I have a request for a oddball - The Rex engine from a BMW i3. I know its out of the realm of what you normally do (and maybe harder to come by?) , but that little thing always intrigued me. Thanks for all the entertainment!
Was it a design priority for it to be unserviceable once fitted to the vehicle? Remove the crank pulley to remove the cam drive cover just so you can get the valve covers off? Yeah, right...
No need to remove the cam belt covers to remove the valve covers, just need to loosen off the screws. Done it twice with cracked inlets. Only a pain to work on as access to the valve cover requires a lot of peripheral parts removal.
@@99domini99Which is fine, since the vast majority of vehicles are discarded because they don't fail until their value is too low to make a repair make economic sense.
Interesting that the shaft of your wrench broke while the ratchet mechanism withstood the strain. Impressive. A while ago you did a Mazda 2.5 SkyActive. If you ever come across another one that has the cylinder deactivation it could be interesting to see how that genius (sarcastic) idea works and if it played a part in why that engine made it to your engine stand. Happy New Year and thank you for all the enjoyable and educational videos during the past year.
In the uk this engine is known for having a snappy two piece crank in the landrovers. The 3.6 v8 seems ok although might lunch acouple of turbos and an oil cooler in its lifetime.
I have the 3.0L v6 in my 2020 F150 and I have yet to find fault with it. Ford did make some improvements to the engine before dropping them in the 1/2 tons. That said, after watching Eric tear this one down and the LR Time video rebuilds, I hope I don't have any problems.
I have seen injector issues caused this basically the Pistons swells up from the heat just enough to score the cylinder wall but not enough to break the piston
Hi Eric great video! In the US that engine is mono turbo is located in the driver side, and the passenger side holds the egr. also the recommended timing belt replacement is 112k miles
Really cool you got this engine. Rare over here in the States. I’ve been watching a couple in Germany that has gone into a lot of detail about this engines and its weaknesses on their Land Rover. Keep the videos coming
Their weakness is crankshaft / main bearings being worn prematurely. The story is well known. They tried to fix it with a better hardening of the crankshaft. But it I'd still the main failure point. This is the reason why land Rovers, and range Rovers are cheaper than BMW X5 or Mercedes products.
@@eugeneoreilly9356Yes, the service intervals is very long and the engine will suffer because of it. My Jaguar XF 3,0D owners manual states an oil change is required every year or at 26 000km (Roughly 16 000 miles) I have only been driving it 13 150km and have changed the oil and filter 3 times already. So I have replaced it 6 times more often than what is recommended in terms of the mileage. Hopefully mine will last many years.
I have a 157,000 mile, 2019 Nissan NV200 SV with the 2.0L gasoline engine, and I would appreciate a teardown of one of these engines that are commonly used in fleet vehicles.
Ford's partnerships always confuse me, they come and go so randomly. On the subject of diesels, I would LOVE to see an OM617 or an OM648, I've got one of each in my 300TD and E320 CDI respectively and they're both so well known for their reliability, but worn out or blown up 617s are becoming a bit more common these days. The 648 is fortunately or unfortunately still pretty hard to find as a core from what I've seen.
I wish I could find more 642’s as well. They’ve been making them for 18 years an they’re in all the sprinter vans. Where the hell are they going? My 642 in my Mercedes GL has 220k miles and I’m not sure how much longer it has.
Ford owned Land Rover for 6-7 years. It wouldn't be surprising if there were contracts in place to supply engines after they sold it to Tata. Especially given that Tata Motors is not well known as an engine developer.
@@eptdyit was a Ford/Peugeot/Citroen design.The engines are well known for broken crankshaft Webb's.The Webb's were made narrower therefore weaker to shorten the overall length so the engine could be fitted in cars like jaguar also owned by ford.Its the worst of the Peugeot/Citroen diesels the smaller ones being quite reliable.
@@eptdyNo that totally makes sense. The Lion Engine format was developed in 2004 and used for almost 10 years in various Land Rover/Range Rover and other "Ford" owned European products as the TD6. Rumour is that it's largely developed by Citroen. Ford literally bought the design and they were not going to develop anything different. They have a notoriously bad history with problems from bad cam shaft metallurgy, to bore washing due to bad injectors and general overheats, sub standard peripherals and the nightmare of getting them serviced. Perhaps it's even more surprising that Tata kept using them when they bought the company from Ford.
I’m had the 3800 in my Grand Prix blow up in May. Took it out and put a junkyard motor in and when I went to disassemble it I followed every procedure Eric does. The 6th cylinder am had combusted itself because of a dropped valve. There was an inspection port into that cylinder. The first 5 spark plugs were okay but the 6th one was smashed to bits. I took the oil pan off and holy piston McNuggets. The wrist pin and connecting rod were in one piece thank god but there were bits of valve and gasket and piston and rings everywhere. I figured out that last time someone did an oil change, they hit the oil pan and cracked it. After driving around for about 5 hours to multiple cities and even an international airport, it must’ve lost enough oil because when I parked at the mall about 4 hours away it started knocking bad. The whole car was shaking and the sound was filling up the parking ramp. Decided I should try to make it to my uncles house but I didn’t even make it half a mile before it conked out on the side of the road. $125 for a towing then $90 to my uncle for the trailer rental and his gas to tow me home. Dropped it in one of the sheds and the rest is history. Almost 200k miles on it now and going strong
I have a Jaguar XJ 2.7 diesel with 190,000 miles. It has a slight tick on one injector and I think a leak on one inlet manifold, so this is a useful video for me to see how it comes apart.
@raula.c4771 I replaced the oil pump with one that had a stronger boss for the timing belt pulley when I did the timing belt at 100,000 miles. It doesn't have the latest higher capacity pump. I have been running it on 5w40 oil for some time as well.
As someone who works at JLR. I can attest they are really expensive to keep on the road in the US. I don’t know about Europe but It’s really expensive in the US to keep these things running in tip top shape.
Add New Zealand to that list. They also break crankshafts at an alarming rate at the #2 main journal. And split inlet manifolds, blow turbos due to the 25000km service intervals, split oil coolers and on and on and on…
When I see Medusa snake pits like this one, I always wonder how anyone ever gets it all back together if that's in the plan. So, in that vein, I'd love to see how you strip down an engine and what you do with the parts so you can reasonably efficiently get everything reassembled. Or, do you ever do that ?
why didn't you just stick the blue end of blue in between one of the counterweights of the crank and the block skirt? I was stressed when you were breaking bolts in the crank hub lol. Of all people, you couldn't figure out how to make a crank not turn? Happy new year, I really enjoy your stuff.
Eric...you bought that T-Bird for your wife. Can't fool us. Okay maybe some of us. Take care and be safe. Wishing you and your family a Happy New Year.
First of all a happy New Year, Eric! Secondly, I wish for a LOT of British teardowns in the next year, logics always seem a bit off with those, if they can make things complicated, they never seem to amaze me.
When you started the video I was half expecting to see an engine with a broken crank - a common issue with the PSA / Ford developed Lion / DV6 engine. If the crank will clean up it has value - certainly in Europe- but I'm not sure how much demand there would be in the US. For cutting open paper filter elements a decent bread knife works well.... just don't let your significant other catch you.
Overtemp and lack of lubrication. Years ago I worked on snowmobile engines that ran overlean in warm weather, and the pistons looked just like that. I can't say why that one got hot or lost lubrication though.
@@petebrooks6539 Yea, I have a feeling that the Fuel Injector for that cylinder wasn't doing it's job, causing that cylinder to run lean ...leading to excess heat on that Piston causing it to scuff the Bore & damage itself.
Ugh i had to do quite a bit of work with that engine on a Landrover Disco 4. Working on that engine is hell with the little space you have. Lift the cab and removing turbos etc is still super tight. The engine ran well for about 1500km after the new turbos and entirely new seals and then suddenly decided to chew up its camshafts and send metal through everything. I've so many bad memories about working on that exact engine.
Is it me or did it seem this engine is a pain in the (***) to break down with tons of covers, brackets and tiny parts. Happy New Year Eric and your family and to all here ! ✨🎊🎉
You should try doing that rear fuel pump belt with the body on. It's buried right under the dashboard, and on all but the earliest 2.7L models, timed too. We even had to make a special tool to get the turbocharger off our 2.7L more easily, because without making a tool it's an absolute nightmare. At least this one has a crankshaft that's in one piece!
@@rockyj2008 We do (albeit a Euro 3 2.7L version in a Discovery 3, so at least the fuel pump isn't timed). It's an absolute nightmare to do anything on them apart from basic servicing. Doing the rear fuel pump belt entails lying on top of the engine with a mirror working virtually blind. If it's twin turbo (thankfully ours isn't), doing the right hand turbo is nigh on impossible with the body on, but the left hand one is doable with some home-made tools. The biggest issue is if a glow plug snaps, because that means taking the heads off which is a nightmare. I'd say leave it but if you don't have a fuel burning heater with an aftermarket controller, getting these to start below -5°C (23°F) is virtually impossible without glow plugs, and difficult enough at freezing point.
@@dizzy2020 It is used in to Peugeot xxx and 608 and Citroen C5, but Ford did not use it in any saloon car made by Ford but on Ford car in Aussi got it!! The oil pump is very scary and is needed to replace when doing timing belt and the sealing in front of it.
Wonder if the piston cooling jet was partially obstructed causing that 1 piston to overheat. 1 suggestion, pull the top ring and inspect the cross section.....especially if you see evidence of combustion between top and second rings. Engines that ingest dust will abrade that top ring and you'll see evidence on the cross section (sharp burr). It'll also open up the ring-end gap. Great videos man! Keep em coming, I look forward to them every week.
Since it came out of a Land Rover, my theory is this happened off roading. Possibly driving through deep water and somehow got water in the oiling system. Possibly struck an object while fording the water and punctured a hole in the pan, quickly filling the pan with water and damaging the moving parts in the lower end before the owner realized what was happening and was able to turn off the engine in time. That's just my theory.
Oh thank goodness!!! I always look forward and scared at same time, for your videos. To see if your video of a junk motor is one I own!!! Love your channel!!! Happy new year!!!
@@jaredbawden6707I guess they came to their senses, only two model years. The promotional video clearly states this is a 150k mileage engine. 😂 why would you admit that?
I will state that... the rust in the cylinders might be because of inadequate fuel filtering. Because as you noted is that while it is pitted, it's nothing one can fell which I can only assume means atomized water that got in with the fuel, which although water is not compressible... I'd reckon the tiny specs that would get in past fuel-water separation methods that aren't properly maintained, would be mostly harmless. And if your wondering, yes, diesel has the issue where it likes to well... hold water in it, and over time as diesel sits in a tank, it'll separate out the water from itself. Which is why it is a must to have fuel-water separation that is well maintained. (And also why fuel filter changes are semi~common on diesels.) However I reckon most of the rust within the motor's oil areas, is more likely caused by the presence of the hole in the bottom allowing moist air on into the engine.
Love to see a 3.0 ecoboost, like the one in explorer ST and police interceptors.,,, and why it started sucking oil like a sailor and bad crankcase pressure…..
Looks like a stuck injector washing down the cylinder wall. That can either tear up the cylinder walls and the piston or just burn a hole right thru said piston. Looks like the former in this case. Ugh.
It would be amazing if you did a best to worst engine review based on build of engine and what you’ve seen break. And any notes 🗒️ on what you loved or hated about engine design. That would be fascinating. I’m a guy that doesn’t work on engines with a 2023 4Runner I love but I find your channel fascinating
Eric, the scoring looks a lot like a bad injector washing raw fuel down the cylinder walls. I've seen it a time or 2 at work repairing fork lifts. Look at the injectors again, you'll notice one is wet, and black as can be. The rest are kinda krispy brown.
Yeah, bad injector dumping tons of fuel.
Cylinder wash down was my first thought too.
Bingo!!
If there were excess fuel in the cylinder 1) It would quickly cause cylinder hydrolocking 2) We would see lots of fuel present in the cylinder, the cylinder looks bone dry.
I would venture a guess, moisture got into cylinder, rusted the piston rings and fused the ring(s) to piston, gouging the cylinder walls
It appears this engine sat around for a long time with moisture in it, when the engine was restarted that's when the piston damage occurred.
Yep, leaking injector, also seams to do it in away that it's hard to notice before it's to late. Even worse on the 4cyl diesel Ford.
45:22 - yes, crank worth money. They crack and are sought after😉
BTW - To lock crank from rotation - put a block of wood between counterweight and block wall. Super simple, wood protects everything from dents.
The crank is going into 2 peaces in this V6 that`s why it is so popular. Some POS, but the new 3.0 ltr Ford as mentioned is almost the same engine but another crank!!..... but what`s the different?
I work for a non-franchise specialist who change a about a dozen or so Land Rover/Range Rover engines a year (we're the only shop around this area who do it for non-dealer prices) and we see one of these every 4-6 months. Wow. Where do you start with this engine platform...
I feel the pain of having to remove all the pipes and hoses and tubes and brackets and STUFF. It usually takes our engine tech a day to get the engine out and another day just to *find the long block* under all that crap! It's even worse in the truck.
The original design came from Peugeot/Citroen (PSA, now a division of Stelantis) which is where the Lion name come from (it's Peugeot's brand logo) and was part of an extensive diesel engine partnership between Ford and PSA at that time which is still going as far as I know.
The Land Rover version originally shipped as a 2.7l engine with a single turbo in 2005 in the Discovery 3 (LR3 in NA markets) and Range Rover Sport. It... wasn't exactly a rocket ship in a 2.5 ton car but they were decent engines that did okay fuel mileage for a large SUV diesel and were a big improvement on previous generation engines. The original 2.7l variant wasn't a bad engine but it had an archiles heel like all Land Rover engines seem to do. It had issues with the tensioner mounting on the oil pump casting breaking off, usually it'd crack during a belt change when the tech unbolted the tensioner that'd been on there for years (you saw how tight that bolt was!) then, after the belt change, would break off under tension, leaving the timing belt loose and catastrophic engine failure. A lot of shops initially got blamed for this but eventually Land Rover admitted it had a problem and recommended a new oil pump on a range of models... but attempt 1 didn't totally fix it, nor did attempt 2... I think the pump was on design 3 or 4 by the 3.0l. The 2.7l was also plagued by problems with sticking EGR valves, they'd soot up, jam the actuator and lead to heavy breathing, running rich, lots of smoke, and eventually the end of the plunger valve sheared off. I dread to think how many pairs of those we've sold or changed over the years.
The 3.0 litre LR-TDV6 is well known to spin rod bearings. They don't have locator tabs like you see on a lot of rob bearings, and if bad oil is used or the interval is stretched out too long they 'grab' and spin on the crank. This is aggravated by the fact the oil pumps on the 3.0l also get weaker over time (I don't know the details, but it's well documented) and the oiling starts to fail. All a recipe for disaster. Also the first 1-2 production year 3.0l LR engines had a habit of blowing front crank oil seals out of the oil pump resulting in it it pumping all your oil into the road, not into the engine.
You should be thankful you had the engine on a stand. The rear fuel pump belt is a nightmare top do in the car, you have to do it 'blind' effectively. The standard procedure for doing any major unit changes (access for the turbos, engine change) requires lifting the body off the car. On the Gen 1 Range Rover Sport and Discovery 3/4 (LR3/4) it's actually only 1/2 a day for an experienced tech to pull the body off. One reason there's so much crap bolted to the engine is it can't be bolted to the engine bay because it has to be modular. The engines were fitted at the factory fully dressed with all the pipes and hoses and stuff attached, and then the body was dropped on over them and they were just plugged in. Great for manufacturing efficiency. An absolute nightmare for after-sales service work!
I'm not saying this is at all connected, but the long blocks are regularly on back-order for these engines. But I think that goes for a lot of JLR's engines.
This engine was phased out in I think 2020 and replaced by a 3.0l twin-turbo straight-6 'Ingenium' JLR engine. It's too early to see if that has had any dramas yet, it's widely used so if it goes wrong we'll find out pretty fast!
Just... don't get me started on the early JLR Ingenium 4-cylinder engines... hoo boy.
Kudos to this comment.
I have a 2013 XFS 3.0d and I’ve learned so much about these engines.
My theory on the engine failures is that because of the heavy weight and 4wd system there’s loads more load on everything compared to a non 4wd and a car that weight over half a ton less.
I’m thinking of getting a 2019 or newer diesel LR is there a good engine model and year combo I should look for or am I rolling the dice with all of them?
@@drewhalliday8531 I have a 2018 Discovery Td6 and it's been completely fine as of 70k miles. Many of the issues are due to the ridiculously long service intervals LR recommended which can cause premature engine wear and crankshaft failure. I change my oil at 5k intervals and use diesel additive just to be on the safe side. Couldn't be happier with this engine.
@@drewhalliday8531 the 4.4 SDV8 seems to be really good.
@@cjmhall any electrical gremlins or mechanical failures?
Hello Eric: You gave a big clue when you mentioned the Lion. My educated guess is that this engine was in a land rover that was used for offroading and mudbogging. They boiled it trying to get it out of a mud or swamp hole and damaged it. Probably not enough to kill the engine completely but enough to require replacemebt.The hole in the oil pan another good clue to typical offroading damage.I would say they STEAMED it to death. Henc all the water vapor condensation rust pitting. Just this old guy witn many off road vehicle trips ending poorly, putting his 2 cents worth in before 2024. Happy New Year and continued successin 2024.😂
It’s a crap Ford engine .
Eric, just found the channel a month or so ago. I retired from the auto repair business 3 years ago after 50+ years. I started as a VW apprentice in 1968 and retired as Porsche shop foreman. I've seen and repaired my share of blown engines but you take the damage to another level! Some of the dumb designs I've seen flabbergast me, the timing belt running in oil comes to mind. Keep up the great content. Wonderful entertainment and love your humor/sarcasm. Scott
I think the destroyed cylinder and piston might be from a bad injector dripping fuel into the cylinder. You may wanna have all the injectors tested.
dont think he sells em just put em in same bin as water pumps etc
@@TCBOT I wouldn't buy second hand injectors, so that makes sense. But it might give a clearer picture of what lead to the destruction of this engine.
@@TCBOT You can get used injectors for some vehicles. They can get costly enough to where they are tested or rebuilt. I think its mostly in diesels.
I sell them, but on diesels like this they are almost always sold as rebuildable cores and not something to simply install right away.
Exactly what I was going to comment… a leaky/bad injector(s)… from what I can see, nothing else looks to be showing signs of overheating.
It was termoflot in the middle of engine, which mixed water in oil through time, there are known issues with these engines. Water damage on axles and chains was due to condesation of water vapors from oil, when cold outside. So it was working on poor lubrication and one bad injector which melted piston. Junk
There's a problem with the injectors for these engines that can total them. If one injector sticks open then the cylinder it feeds runs too hot and kills the piston. Helping a friend find a Disco 4 earlier this year there were 4 or 5 advertised in our area at about 30% market price, still running with the seller generally saying they didn't know what the problem was but the engine wouldn't run right. A bit of research soon revealed these were not a bargain, the cost to fix it would just about match the market value.
Fords 2.2 diesel does the same. Injectors stick on and either crack or put a hole in the piston.
It might also look like it had possibly a failing EGR cooler as well from all the light rust pitting in the bores. But yeah stuck injector is what it looks like on that one with all the scoring.
I was so worried that Blue was going to get hurt. I don't think I could handle anything happening to him.
Looks like blue has a terrible gouge across his body
Blue needs his own show!
It may be a little early, but a great April fools prank may involve tearing down a lawn mower/lawn tractor/zero turn engine, go cart or boat engine :)
or even better an engine rebuild 😎
A bizzaro teardown?
Even better would be an engine tear down but just played in reverse. 😅
Just say it out of a Chinese car.
Or better yet, take a Techumseh snow blower engine and, as an April Fools Prank, say it's out of a Tesla Model 3. :D
I seen this happen in the 3.0 Duramax a couple of times. To me it looks like injector failure…… only because only one cylinder was effected. If it was overheated it would be multiple cylinders with scarring like that. Injector failure is very common. Just my 2 cents. Happy new year Eric!!!!
@ErikHyndmanto That would be "stay in school, kids."
Obstructed piston cooling jet could cause this also.
I am a guy from Denmark. I love to see you turn downs, and see What's go wrong. Have a happy New Year🎉
Happy new year Eric! Thanks for all the great videos this year. Cannot wait to see what the future holds. Hope the channel grows even more. PS love the fire extinguisher watching over you
The engine has obviously overheated at some point causing that piston and bore damage,they do oversized pistons so a rebore and crankshaft grind would probably be OK. The problem is where all that water came from,it looks as though that engine has been run for some time with water in the oil because of all the rust,when water gets into the oil it usually emulsifies but there’s no indication of that,I would double check those cylinders for any signs of cracks in the cylinder block,it’s a bit of a mystery where that water came from and that needs to be thoroughly investigated before any money is spent on parts. If a crack is found in a cylinder wall dry liners can be fitted and standard pistons fitted, those camshafts will need replacement,this engine needs a lot of money spent on it but when compared to a new engine it will look like small change,maybe a new short engine might be a better option, it’s worth making the comparison between the price options when labour time is considered.
Why doesn't Land Rover make computers?
They couldn't figure out how to make them leak oil.
Happy New Year!
Watch them make mineral oil cooled ECUs next 😂😂😂
That's good stuff, thanks for the chuckle. Happy New Year.
It’s ok. They can make them leak magic smoke instead.
LOLZ
No manufacturer has turned more owners into mechanics over the decades than Land Rover has!
I love your videos. I haven't come close to the amount of tear downs but done lot. Would love to see a tear down and failure of a Chevy 2.7 turbo!
A overheated ring looses its spring tension if you remove the ring and twist it and it stays twisted the engine overheated.
Eric, I want to thank you for all the great videos this year. I love watching them and I try never to miss a Saturday night show. I also talk about Importapart to my friends. Perhaps some day they will give you some business.
Again this is the highlight of Saturday night can't wait to watch the disassembly.
Very often those Oil pump gear/rotors are powdered/sintered metal construction, the gears arent usually machined afterwords- the only item that might be is overall thickness.
Quite an interesting method to produce these gears.
I don’t know how you keep your cool tearing down these engines and keep from hurling stuff across the shop. I don’t know if it happens behind the scenes or what but you have the calmest personality of anyone tearing engines down I’ve ever seen, including me.
I always wanted to see one of these engines on your channel, awesome work man.
The HP fuel pumps have a bronze bushing inside which breaks down, circulating swarf through both pumps and kills them in the end.
Those plastic cam covers/intake manifolds crack, creating boost leaks. They get changed on the regular and that HP fuel line over the LH cover has to be 'repositioned' for the cover to be removed.
Thanks and much respect from the UK.
RIP; 15mm spanner 🔧, that bit was hilarious tbh. We had to make a tool to hold the crank by the ring of bolts to get that bastard loose.
*Also, I'm told by an engine builder that the cam lobes are pressed on to the cam shaft.
Great plan
Thanks for tearing down a 3.0 diesel Eric!
I have the powerstroke version in my 2018 F150 and absolutely love it!
I was just searching through your videos a couple days ago to see if you had ever torn down this engine.
Thanks again!
I knew this one was coming to 😂. I may have a powerstroke 3.0 for him soon.
Ford and PSA designed the lion engine for JLR and Peugeot people movers as 2.7l because psa didn’t want 3.0l JLR did. Ford built the engines for JLR. After Ford sold JLR they didn’t care about the engine problems until they thought it would be suitable for the F150 then fixed all the problems. 2.7 and 3l suffered from spun bearings while the 3l crank shaft kept breaking among other issues. Bearings were fixed with tabs and forget how they fixed the crank … think they increased diameter as the the engine was designed to be longitudinal and transverse so pretty tight. I think you have a good engine… well done you!
@@ClayCourtGuythe bearings still spin, the crank was fixed by changing it to a forged crank. None of the dimensions changed, including the tiny 14mm big end bearings
@@billyp4850 thanks for clarifying Billy. Surprised the tabs didn’t help … I thought the bearings spun then that blocked off the oil flow but I guess they need a reason to spin … maybe just the lack of bearing surface area.
@@ClayCourtGuy tabs don't stop bearings spinning, they're only there to make locating them during assembly foolproof. The tension of the bearing shell into the housing is what holds it in place
With the marks on the cam gear it's likely the belt was replaced. Part of the timing process is to loosen the cam bolts and once it's tensioned the bolts would be retightened. Who knows where the gear will land. I've done a few belts on the F150 so far haven't been able to get the bolts 100% back where they were
I'm seeing on the F150 you shouldn't goich more than 100k on the timing belt. The belts are getting chewed up to the point they are smacking the cover.
I think I'm one of the only people in the states that actually like doing belts on these little guys. I have a line around the block waiting for me to do their belts 😂.
I have one of these (well, earlier, transverse version) in a Citroen. Lion (Peugeots crest) was a PSA/Ford joint effort, so it shares a lot of features with Peugeot Diesels, it has a bit of a mixed reputation compared to the Pug 4 bangers, I think it's pretty much all the Ford bits that fail. Citroen recommendation for those belts is 180K km under "adverse conditions", which is pretty much anything if you read into it. Did it at 160K km (almost exaxtly 100k miles) on my first and it looked pretty OK, but it was a car doing mostly highway stuff.
I've come around on belts in general, at least they are specced as maintenance items and you usually do the obvious stuff alongside (waterpump etc.), unlike chain tensioners which are specced for the "life of the engine" which translates into "their failure determines the life of your engine".
The french have also heavier weight oil specced than Jag/LR, which reportedly helps a lot with the bearings not spinning during prolonged hard use, which is a thing with these.
I think that the engine has a much easier time in a car than in a big heavy 4x4. The gearing is higher and they spend more time in a high gear because of less drag. I'm using 5w40 now in my Jag.
@@PJ-om2wq I can't imagine they like towing all that much, narrow bearings and light oil are bad combo if you apply torque. OTOH, they can take the revs no problem, I've run mine north of 4k for hours and to be fair, doing those autobahn things was probably the original design brief for these and that's what lots of old timey diesels had problems with. But yeah, cost and size is probably not the only reason PSA uses an Iveco I4 as the 3L diesel option in their vans.
I was thinking the same. Ether someone did a t belt and got it wrong or it was a recycled engine bought from a wrecking yard. Might have been both. I work at a yard and have seen just about everything. Maybe. There is always tomorrow.
When I saw that I was thinking you would get out the timing belt instructions and check the cam timing. In the end, not the problem, but a cam being a tooth or two off would give a poor running engine. And thus, a replacement.
Great video…I have a 2016 td6 Range Rover and have just completed (my indy tech) timing belt service at 99k miles. Think landrover says 8 years or 105k miles. Lots of these early “lion” diesel engines (2016+) here in USA are now needing this service……pricy at Landrover dealer. Very interesting seeing this motor being stripped down.
I agree with one other comment as fuel wash from a hung open injector. As for the hole in the pan, some yards punch holes in everything to drain fluids as the process cars
two phrases used in military aircraft..."Normal wear & tear" and "Excessive wear & tear."
Over heated Piston from bad injector that was stopped using before a torched piston.
Wow! the burgundy T-Bird. Can you do a video and tell the story about it? Most interesting!
Thankfully Blue survived his ordeal 👍 ratchet spanners(wrenches) can be replaced but Blue is for life. Thanks again Eric for another great teardown and here's wishing you and your family and everyone across the pond a very Happy New Year from a very wet and windy Nottingham 🇬🇧
"Crap these cram caps" 😂😂 Thanks for another great video! Happy new year Eric!!!
I had to rewatch that part about 3 times, I thought that was my imagination 😂
@@JAMESWUERTELE I turned the subtitles on to make sure I wasn't hearing things.....again 🤣
I like cram the crack caps
He says it in evrry video, or something similar It started years ago as an accidental fumble, something like "cam these cap cracks" 😂
@@johncoops6897 I've never been quite sure if he does it as a gag, or if he just can't English some days. I think it's likely some of both. :)
Happy New Year Eric. I hope Santa brought you a 15mm to replace the one that you broke in the video. You really put the "Snap" in Snap-On with that one! :)
Thanks as always for my Saturday night entertainment. As for why it failed? No clue here.
If it was a SnapOn, the dealer would replace it. They are good about that, even if there's abuse involved.
This is the TDV6 which means it's a single turbo application. The SD6 which is mid 2019+ is the twin turbo variation. Also the cranks were changed in 2018 to the upgraded version used in the F150.
Thanks for this one Eric. FWIW the 3.0 V6 diesels that came to the states roughly have performance stats of the Euro SDV6, 254 vs 256 HP. In the US, the 2017 version name changed form TD6 to SD6. Also US versions were not single turbo. All US versions per the spec sheet are twin turbo, albeit a sequential setup. Older versions of the Euro TDV6 2.7 were single turbo. In Europe the SD6 came in at 300 HP, the US SD6 remained at 254.
Thanks for the show!
This poor engine had an injector fail; it spewed fuel, probably as a stream, on to the cylinder wall and the piston scraped it up to TDC when the then concentrated fuel ignited, always in the same spot - on the edge of the piston. The poor piston never had a chance.
The driver heard knocking like gas engine preignition, but louder. The engine itself never overheated as only the one piston was affected.
A spray test will reveal the offending injector; most likely it can be rebuilt and sold with the others.
Happy New Year and thanks for your interesting shows.
Did you check to see if there was a failed EGR cooler? Those bearings ran with coolant contaminated oil. So, either coolant got into the lube system through the EGR cooler, or there was a a head gasket leak….
Happy new year Eric! Always love watching you tear into all different engines, I learn quite a bit from your videos! Are you able to source a Subaru H6 engine? 3.0L or 3.6L would make for an interesting tear down!
Happy New Year Eric and family. Thanks for our Saturday night ritual. I enjoy all of the teardowns and commentary.
HAPPY NEW YEAR ERIC! I'm excited for another year of tear downs!
Rover refers the 3.0. as the "Lion". A thought about the pink paint- makes it the "pink panther' now!
I'll let myself out now. Happy New Year everybody!
It's called a lion because that's what Ford called it when they designed it. It's a Ford engine not a LR engine.
Thanks again for another learning opportunity. Great tear down.
It looks like it was pulled out for the piston failure, maybe set outside exposed , then went to a yard. who knows. Great video!!
poked a hole in oil pan while going thru water or mud hole and water replaced the oil !
The timing gears had to have been repositioned by someone... the bolt head abrasions on the gears are separate. There would be skid marks from one circle to the next on all of them if they slid to a different position while running.
I love those last generation Thunderbirds… they really should have gotten the MarkVIII engine though and the option of a 5spd
Hey broski!!
Theory:
There were multiple signs of the engine having been running after the rust manifested, so i think the messed up cylinder was simply a high friction event because of rust in the cylinder.
Tbh, i''m surprised the other pistons looked so relatively good.
Also protip: Run a razor blade around the top of the cylinder to remove carbon before pulling the pistons, as i have seen multiple cases where the graphite coating on the pistons are damaged by the carbon deposits.
And it also allows you to wiggle all the pistons out by hand.
Thanks for another weekend teardown, but to also wish you and your family a Happy New Year 🎉
I have a request for a oddball - The Rex engine from a BMW i3. I know its out of the realm of what you normally do (and maybe harder to come by?) , but that little thing always intrigued me. Thanks for all the entertainment!
Was it a design priority for it to be unserviceable once fitted to the vehicle? Remove the crank pulley to remove the cam drive cover just so you can get the valve covers off? Yeah, right...
It’s cheaper to build that way. Welcome to modern vehicles!
Jaguar will do whatever they can to force you to go to a dealer shop for anything more involved than filling your gas and washer fluid
@@micahreid5553 Its a Ford engine
No need to remove the cam belt covers to remove the valve covers, just need to loosen off the screws. Done it twice with cracked inlets. Only a pain to work on as access to the valve cover requires a lot of peripheral parts removal.
@@99domini99Which is fine, since the vast majority of vehicles are discarded because they don't fail until their value is too low to make a repair make economic sense.
Our local salvage yard charges a fee for vehicles brought in with fluids. They waive the fee if oil pan and gas tank are punctured as proof.
Interesting that the shaft of your wrench broke while the ratchet mechanism withstood the strain. Impressive.
A while ago you did a Mazda 2.5 SkyActive. If you ever come across another one that has the cylinder deactivation it could be interesting to see how that genius (sarcastic) idea works and if it played a part in why that engine made it to your engine stand.
Happy New Year and thank you for all the enjoyable and educational videos during the past year.
In the uk this engine is known for having a snappy two piece crank in the landrovers. The 3.6 v8 seems ok although might lunch acouple of turbos and an oil cooler in its lifetime.
I have the 3.0L v6 in my 2020 F150 and I have yet to find fault with it. Ford did make some improvements to the engine before dropping them in the 1/2 tons. That said, after watching Eric tear this one down and the LR Time video rebuilds, I hope I don't have any problems.
Wait until you need a thermostat, the cab comes off the frame.
Keep changing the oil and filter "early"...not at 25k interval?
I got one to man. No problems yet with mine
Make sure you also use the 5W40 CK-4 oil, or you will join the Lion spun bearing club
I have seen injector issues caused this basically the Pistons swells up from the heat just enough to score the cylinder wall but not enough to break the piston
35:25 ,must be the extended 15mm Snap Off wrench 💥🔧
Hi Eric great video! In the US that engine is mono turbo is located in the driver side, and the passenger side holds the egr. also the recommended timing belt replacement is 112k miles
Really cool you got this engine. Rare over here in the States. I’ve been watching a couple in Germany that has gone into a lot of detail about this engines and its weaknesses on their Land Rover. Keep the videos coming
Their weakness is crankshaft / main bearings being worn prematurely. The story is well known. They tried to fix it with a better hardening of the crankshaft. But it I'd still the main failure point. This is the reason why land Rovers, and range Rovers are cheaper than BMW X5 or Mercedes products.
Does not help that the service plan from LR is 10k -12k miles between oil changes
@@hyphensclassics it's the 20,000 mile ones I'd be more worried about.
@@eugeneoreilly9356 crazy, no oil supports an engine that long! People wonder why the bearings go!
@@eugeneoreilly9356Yes, the service intervals is very long and the engine will suffer because of it.
My Jaguar XF 3,0D owners manual states an oil change is required every year or at 26 000km (Roughly 16 000 miles)
I have only been driving it 13 150km and have changed the oil and filter 3 times already.
So I have replaced it 6 times more often than what is recommended in terms of the mileage.
Hopefully mine will last many years.
I have a 157,000 mile, 2019 Nissan NV200 SV with the 2.0L gasoline engine, and I would appreciate a teardown of one of these engines that are commonly used in fleet vehicles.
Ford's partnerships always confuse me, they come and go so randomly.
On the subject of diesels, I would LOVE to see an OM617 or an OM648, I've got one of each in my 300TD and E320 CDI respectively and they're both so well known for their reliability, but worn out or blown up 617s are becoming a bit more common these days. The 648 is fortunately or unfortunately still pretty hard to find as a core from what I've seen.
I wish I could find more 642’s as well. They’ve been making them for 18 years an they’re in all the sprinter vans. Where the hell are they going? My 642 in my Mercedes GL has 220k miles and I’m not sure how much longer it has.
Ford owned Land Rover for 6-7 years. It wouldn't be surprising if there were contracts in place to supply engines after they sold it to Tata. Especially given that Tata Motors is not well known as an engine developer.
@discordia013 the thing is Land Rover did most of the development on this engine. The fact that Ford borrowed it for the f150 is kind of crazy.
@@eptdyit was a Ford/Peugeot/Citroen design.The engines are well known for broken crankshaft Webb's.The Webb's were made narrower therefore weaker to shorten the overall length so the engine could be fitted in cars like jaguar also owned by ford.Its the worst of the Peugeot/Citroen diesels the smaller ones being quite reliable.
@@eptdyNo that totally makes sense. The Lion Engine format was developed in 2004 and used for almost 10 years in various Land Rover/Range Rover and other "Ford" owned European products as the TD6. Rumour is that it's largely developed by Citroen. Ford literally bought the design and they were not going to develop anything different.
They have a notoriously bad history with problems from bad cam shaft metallurgy, to bore washing due to bad injectors and general overheats, sub standard peripherals and the nightmare of getting them serviced. Perhaps it's even more surprising that Tata kept using them when they bought the company from Ford.
I’m had the 3800 in my Grand Prix blow up in May. Took it out and put a junkyard motor in and when I went to disassemble it I followed every procedure Eric does. The 6th cylinder am had combusted itself because of a dropped valve. There was an inspection port into that cylinder. The first 5 spark plugs were okay but the 6th one was smashed to bits. I took the oil pan off and holy piston McNuggets. The wrist pin and connecting rod were in one piece thank god but there were bits of valve and gasket and piston and rings everywhere. I figured out that last time someone did an oil change, they hit the oil pan and cracked it. After driving around for about 5 hours to multiple cities and even an international airport, it must’ve lost enough oil because when I parked at the mall about 4 hours away it started knocking bad. The whole car was shaking and the sound was filling up the parking ramp. Decided I should try to make it to my uncles house but I didn’t even make it half a mile before it conked out on the side of the road. $125 for a towing then $90 to my uncle for the trailer rental and his gas to tow me home. Dropped it in one of the sheds and the rest is history. Almost 200k miles on it now and going strong
Happy new year Eric to you and yours. What a way to end the year. Great video it’s been a great year. I can’t wait to see what next year brings us.
My mom had always wanted one of those thunderbirds, no idea why but thats always been a dream car of hers
So easy when you have the right tools. I love the vids...
I could watch you all day Eric lol. Always look forward to new videos. We think EXACTLY alike 😂
I have a Jaguar XJ 2.7 diesel with 190,000 miles. It has a slight tick on one injector and I think a leak on one inlet manifold, so this is a useful video for me to see how it comes apart.
Is the oil pump the original one?
@raula.c4771 I replaced the oil pump with one that had a stronger boss for the timing belt pulley when I did the timing belt at 100,000 miles. It doesn't have the latest higher capacity pump. I have been running it on 5w40 oil for some time as well.
It is amazing how complex this thing is. I bet the maintenance on these is terribly expensive.
Tsk
As someone who works at JLR. I can attest they are really expensive to keep on the road in the US. I don’t know about Europe but It’s really expensive in the US to keep these things running in tip top shape.
@@hulqs9330 In australia, theyre pretty expensive to keep them on the road also
Add New Zealand to that list. They also break crankshafts at an alarming rate at the #2 main journal. And split inlet manifolds, blow turbos due to the 25000km service intervals, split oil coolers and on and on and on…
In the U K they cost a fortune.....and the new ones are virtually uninsurable due to ease of theft.
Wow and not even a snapped crankshaft! These engines are notorious for snapping their cranks and / or spinning bearings
Love the videos Eric, keep it up.
I was thinking that injector washed the cylinder. If I remember that nasty injector was pulled out of that cylinder.
I see a lot of those T-Birds and they're all well taken care of. 👍
When I see Medusa snake pits like this one, I always wonder how anyone ever gets it all back together if that's in the plan. So, in that vein, I'd love to see how you strip down an engine and what you do with the parts so you can reasonably efficiently get everything reassembled. Or, do you ever do that ?
why didn't you just stick the blue end of blue in between one of the counterweights of the crank and the block skirt? I was stressed when you were breaking bolts in the crank hub lol. Of all people, you couldn't figure out how to make a crank not turn? Happy new year, I really enjoy your stuff.
As a jag/lr dealer tech, a friendly reminder: if there's no coolant under it, there's no coolant in it.
If it leaks oil, there’s oil in it - carry on
Eric...you bought that T-Bird for your wife. Can't fool us. Okay maybe some of us. Take care and be safe. Wishing you and your family a Happy New Year.
First of all a happy New Year, Eric! Secondly, I wish for a LOT of British teardowns in the next year, logics always seem a bit off with those, if they can make things complicated, they never seem to amaze me.
@@retiredbore378😂😂😂😂
@@jobertvangool9961 there are no British teardowns, they never had any survive long enough to be torn down properly. Enjoy your tea!
When you started the video I was half expecting to see an engine with a broken crank - a common issue with the PSA / Ford developed Lion / DV6 engine. If the crank will clean up it has value - certainly in Europe- but I'm not sure how much demand there would be in the US. For cutting open paper filter elements a decent bread knife works well.... just don't let your significant other catch you.
That sure looks like an over-heat, especially with that piston metal transfer. Happy NY Eric ;-)
Clog in the water jacket near that one piston?
Overtemp and lack of lubrication. Years ago I worked on snowmobile engines that ran overlean in warm weather, and the pistons looked just like that. I can't say why that one got hot or lost lubrication though.
Bad injector on that piston causing lean burn?
@@raguhmuffin Bad injector dumping fuel. Too much fuel.
@@petebrooks6539 Yea, I have a feeling that the Fuel Injector for that cylinder wasn't doing it's job, causing that cylinder to run lean ...leading to excess heat on that Piston causing it to scuff the Bore & damage itself.
Ugh i had to do quite a bit of work with that engine on a Landrover Disco 4. Working on that engine is hell with the little space you have. Lift the cab and removing turbos etc is still super tight. The engine ran well for about 1500km after the new turbos and entirely new seals and then suddenly decided to chew up its camshafts and send metal through everything.
I've so many bad memories about working on that exact engine.
Is it me or did it seem this engine is a pain in the (***) to break down with tons of covers, brackets and tiny parts. Happy New Year Eric and your family and to all here ! ✨🎊🎉
You should try doing that rear fuel pump belt with the body on. It's buried right under the dashboard, and on all but the earliest 2.7L models, timed too. We even had to make a special tool to get the turbocharger off our 2.7L more easily, because without making a tool it's an absolute nightmare. At least this one has a crankshaft that's in one piece!
On ford trucks you have to pull the cab off to do any kind of work on them
Can you imagine working on that engine in vehicle!
@@rockyj2008 We do (albeit a Euro 3 2.7L version in a Discovery 3, so at least the fuel pump isn't timed). It's an absolute nightmare to do anything on them apart from basic servicing. Doing the rear fuel pump belt entails lying on top of the engine with a mirror working virtually blind. If it's twin turbo (thankfully ours isn't), doing the right hand turbo is nigh on impossible with the body on, but the left hand one is doable with some home-made tools. The biggest issue is if a glow plug snaps, because that means taking the heads off which is a nightmare. I'd say leave it but if you don't have a fuel burning heater with an aftermarket controller, getting these to start below -5°C (23°F) is virtually impossible without glow plugs, and difficult enough at freezing point.
@@dizzy2020 It is used in to Peugeot xxx and 608 and Citroen C5, but Ford did not use it in any saloon car made by Ford but on Ford car in Aussi got it!!
The oil pump is very scary and is needed to replace when doing timing belt and the sealing in front of it.
Wonder if the piston cooling jet was partially obstructed causing that 1 piston to overheat.
1 suggestion, pull the top ring and inspect the cross section.....especially if you see evidence of combustion between top and second rings. Engines that ingest dust will abrade that top ring and you'll see evidence on the cross section (sharp burr). It'll also open up the ring-end gap.
Great videos man! Keep em coming, I look forward to them every week.
Since it came out of a Land Rover, my theory is this happened off roading. Possibly driving through deep water and somehow got water in the oiling system. Possibly struck an object while fording the water and punctured a hole in the pan, quickly filling the pan with water and damaging the moving parts in the lower end before the owner realized what was happening and was able to turn off the engine in time. That's just my theory.
Got the 2.7L version in my Ford Territory
Been waiting for this video
Sounds kinda like a leaking injector. That'll overheat a piston real quick.
Oh thank goodness!!!
I always look forward and scared at same time, for your videos.
To see if your video of a junk motor is one I own!!!
Love your channel!!!
Happy new year!!!
FoMoCo and land rover badges all mixed together on it lol
It really is Christmas, you have some great engine tear downs this month!
I drove a Range Rover 200,000 miles before I had any reliability issues. Oh. I meant 200 miles.
Womp womp
38:08 AA is the bad oil pump design, AE is the updated Ford oil pump. I couldn’t see the number on the casting, on the video.
Some of us old timers want to see a ford model T failed engine tear down 😂😢
Go to Merlin’s old school garage, he tares down model T and A engine’s
Those 'lil 4.2s get going real good in that T-bird throwback.
Test drove many new.
This engine is famous! You have to pull the cab off to replace the thermostat 😂😂
Famous for all the wrong reasons clearly. I don't know what goes through the minds of Ford engineers, but clearly none of them work on their own cars.
@@jaredbawden6707I guess they came to their senses, only two model years. The promotional video clearly states this is a 150k mileage engine. 😂 why would you admit that?
@@JAMESWUERTELE bloody hell, that's crap!
I will state that... the rust in the cylinders might be because of inadequate fuel filtering. Because as you noted is that while it is pitted, it's nothing one can fell which I can only assume means atomized water that got in with the fuel, which although water is not compressible... I'd reckon the tiny specs that would get in past fuel-water separation methods that aren't properly maintained, would be mostly harmless. And if your wondering, yes, diesel has the issue where it likes to well... hold water in it, and over time as diesel sits in a tank, it'll separate out the water from itself. Which is why it is a must to have fuel-water separation that is well maintained. (And also why fuel filter changes are semi~common on diesels.) However I reckon most of the rust within the motor's oil areas, is more likely caused by the presence of the hole in the bottom allowing moist air on into the engine.
There are some strange engineering choices in this engine.
yaman dis is europen crap
Great show! Thanks Eric.
"3.0 liter twin turbo diesel that puts out around 250 hp and 440 foot pounds of torque"
Well, that would wake up my '97 Ford Aerostar very nicely!
@ErikHyndmanto haha!
something tightened up the clearances and some fuel trouble took out the lube . Heat and friction did the rest .
The pink paint on the motor tells me it's Pick-A-Part😅😅😅😅
Love to see a 3.0 ecoboost, like the one in explorer ST and police interceptors.,,, and why it started sucking oil like a sailor and bad crankcase pressure…..
Yeah been waiting
Looks like a stuck injector washing down the cylinder wall. That can either tear up the cylinder walls and the piston or just burn a hole right thru said piston. Looks like the former in this case. Ugh.
why is everything plastic now
Likely weight and cost savings? I do believe certain plastic components can be implemented successfully… but not all
Thank you Eric! 👍
Happy new year 🍾
It would be amazing if you did a best to worst engine review based on build of engine and what you’ve seen break. And any notes 🗒️ on what you loved or hated about engine design. That would be fascinating. I’m a guy that doesn’t work on engines with a 2023 4Runner I love but I find your channel fascinating