I’m a Land Rover technician and that ford engine looks like the coyote’s 5.0 cousin. Different components by Land Rover, different blower, and more things, the engine is decent with good maintenance, we haven seen some in the 250k miles mark, but to get there you have to spend a lot of money. He had trouble getting the injector out, even with the special tool sometimes they are very difficult to remove and sometimes the plastic cracks. We do not rebuild engines due to quality replacement parts available. If you try to get new bearings pistons etc is impossible trough JLR, so most of them are used or new engines installed in vehicles, most common failure overheating due to leaking crossover pipe. Great video! And trust me to remove a lot of the components in the engine bay is a interesting task most of the time.
@@TortugaDeRio check for carfax history on maintenance, Land Rover calls for 20k miles oil changes, if you follow that you will be needing an engine soon. Not too much maintenance due till 60k miles, diffs, transfer box, transmission. 50k miles still low mileage if the basic oil change was made regularly. But fair warning if you get one, better love it or will get the best of you!
But isn't the AJ133 an extensive update/improvement to the Jaguar AJ-V8 and is technically a part of this engine family which was an in-house design from Jaguar beginning just before Ford acquired them? I know there's some components that have FoMoCo stampings on them which makes sense considering these engines & components were built at the Bridgend plant which was owned by Ford but I'm confused as to how the Ford Modular V8 engine family would have a direct connection to the Jaguar AJ-V8 engine family when they were both designed & engineered at different times and by completely different car companies.
@@crazyjkz since 2004 Ford supplies engines for Land Rover jaguar in Europe for their diesel platforms, most likely working together to redesign the v8? Don’t know, I’m not an engineer, but in all vehicle we tear down at the shop has it particular markings of manufacture, come citröen, Peugeot, bmw, fomoco, jlr. Is just my personal opinion but why would I design an engine and put somebody else’s name?? Hard core ford fan? Maybe?
Jag designed AJ-V8 1st Gen V8 and AJ-133 2nd Gen V8 in England, without Ford Engine Engineering input, save a few “parts bin” parts. Ford Powertrain Operations Engine Engineering designed the Modular V8 without Jag Engineering input.
This is off topic but it is important for me to say. I've done some public speaking in the past, and you my friend are a natural public speaker. Let me expand on that. You are very articulate in that you don't stumble over your words. You don't mumble your or add a bunch of "umms" or "uhhs" when you speak. In my opinion, and others too, the ability to connect with the audience quickly is vital to success. You do that. Your knowledge base is solid and you welcome comments. I don't know much about engines but I enjoy your videos. Good work. Cheers
Don’t sweat it that this engine wasn’t blown up. It’s cool to see these tear-downs on more complicated/exotic engines even without any carnage. And you’re interesting to watch either way. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for doing this one! I had a 2010 Jaguar XF Supercharged with this engine until I sold it in May of last year. I had an ECU tune that jacked it up to about 550hp and had it from 42k miles until about 85k miles, so let me tell everyone about the quirks. 1: The coolant system is the main weakness. The water pump design is absolute garbage. I had to replace the pump right after I bought it, then again at about 75k miles. Pretty typical for these. It's not a terrible job, but not cheap either. The other issue, which luckily I didn't have, was with the crossover pipe. That was that flat black coolant pipe he removed from the rear of the motor. They are seam welded and not very robust. After many heat cycles, it gets brittle and starts splitting at the seam, and it's not an easy thing to get to. There are a ton of other plastic fittings that get brittle which I didn't have a problem with in 4.5 years of ownership, but I knew I was on borrowed time, which was why I sold it. 2: As everybody knows, the timing system sucks on these. It's a craps shoot. I never had any major chain noise, but as other comments have mentioned, the Jaguar 15k mile oil change interval is bullshit. I changed my oil religiously at 5k miles. Apparently, there are small oil passages in the tensioner that can clog up, slowing down how fast it builds tension. Too little tension at startup for too long wears out the guides. These 5.0's were apparently much better in the timing chain/tensioner department than the earlier 4.2's, but it's still something an owner needs to keep an eye on. 3: As he mentioned, the supercharger isolation coupler is another issue. Not a major one, but something that does need to be addressed after a time. I didn't notice any noise from mine, but I'm sure it was getting worn. On the other hand, this engine is so well insulated that you can't hear ANY supercharger whine, even at full throttle/max rpms. 4: That tube that went up to the oil fill hole was for vacuum draining the oil. I got a big vacuum pump from Harbor Freight and was able to change my own oil, which is WAAAAY cheaper than doing it at the Jag dealer. And with the cartridge oil filter up top, it's very easy to change, and makes almost no mess. 5: If well cared for, it's an amazing engine. The engine is so smooth, yet brutal with its torque all the way through the RPMS. I took my XF to the drag strip for open track night many times and it was way faster than it had any right to be. At around 4300lbs and with Continental Pilot Super Sport all seasons, I did a best time of 12.2@115mph with a 1.8 60' time. It would do consistent 12.3's. It was faster than just about every Charger/Challenger that wasn't a Hellcat, most Mustangs, and most Camaro SSs. I was usually about a tenth slower than C7 Corvettes, but they are like 700-800 lbs lighter than my beefer. I do miss my Jag, but with it getting older I was just worried about expenses. The engine is set back in the bay, so even just a spark plug change is a pain for the back cylinders. Overall, though, besides the two water pumps, which only leaked and never overheated the car, my XF was very reliable and never left me stranded from a mechanical issue. And I may or may not have had it up to 130+ on old route 66.
Thanks for sharing as they say in the anonymous Jag-aholic circles. Yup, oil-change with vacuum suction makes sense - no lifting the car and risking it killing you while under it, no messing with the drain plug or buying a new gasket for it, no removal of belly pans etc., just let the little pump do its big work. Some youtubers (that dude with the new VW Golf GTI who develops parts for VW tuning) claim it does a better job than draining. Greetings from Latvia.
jag land rover tech here first of all, pretty rare to see an XF with a 5.0, those are absolutely gnarly for the smallest sedan jaguar has to offer for that year. if they were reliable id consider buying one! but you're correct on just about everything. i've personally witnessed so many range rovers and a few jags need engines from overheating primarily, but occasional jumps in timing from something as simple as an oil change, quite literally, oil change mucked up the motor and it got towed out. as crazy as it sounds its happened. incredibly torquey, retains its power, but so many design flaws that weren't addressed, even the earlier 5.0s/3.0s had metal outlet pipes which i havent seen a leak yet! the plastic ones, the latter unfortunately. crossover pipes i see leaking less than outlet pipes, but still fairly often and a common failure point. not only that, jaguar/land rover's spec for cylinder head/block warpage tolerances are 8 thousandths (.008"). That is a LOT of warpage they tolerate, and typically if they cover head gaskets if its within spec, it will sooner than later just warp even further and need an engine. joy. vacuum draining oil makes it take so little time, very little mess, and thats how jaguar land rover recommends and pushes for you to do it! plus, oil drain passage on the oil pan will just splash onto the subframe and create a mess, plus metal undershields on rovers/massive plastic belly pans on jaguars are never fun to take off or put back on. good on them but it can create messy work. some full size 2023 rovers just picked up the third revision of the BMW N63. training has said its basically another crap shoot. once again, joy. don't worry though, your insurance heard nothing about route 66 :)
This engine is violating a basic rule of mechanical engineering. The more parts a mechanism has the less reliable it is. This is not good overall design.
@@floatNMD Great to hear from a Jag/LR tech. Yes, it was the "smallest" sedan Jaguar offered, but it's definitely not small. I think it's something like 4200 lbs. It's a beefy car, but still not as big as the XJs, which are massive cars. Yeah, when running it's a great engine. Torque and power for days. Brutal but smooth. It just has some design weaknesses (probably from the bean counters) that can be fatal. With as fast as Jaguars depreciate, if you can afford the maintenance, I would take one over a Charger/Challenger or anything else, really. It handled really well for such a big car with the active suspension. I've heard that a lot of the newer Jags like the XE has BMW derived engines that are, ahem, less than reliable. It sucks because I really like the styling of the XE, but I just don't know if I want to deal with the maintenance/craps shoot. All luxury cars are a craps shoot for reliability, really. The most reliable car I've owned, believe it or not, was a 2008 Saab 9-3 Aero (Turbo V6). I put a tune on it (about 320hp) and I had close to 100 passes down the strip. I had that about 4 years as well, and all I had to do to it was new rear shocks, some coil packs, and a cracked vacuum hose. I could knock out 13 second 1/4 mile times, then get 30mpg on the way home. But for every story like mine, there are nightmares. I bet you do make some bank as a Jag/LR tech. I had to take my Jag to the dealer to replace a leaky diff seal and the dealer raped me for $1400... All of the indy shops that worked on Jags were booked almost 2 months out and I couldn't wait that long to fix a problem like that.
The last option for the mystery plastic is a previous set of timing guides. The two different flavors of RTV might support that idea since someone else was definitely in there.
@dans_Learning_Curve I wonder if the head gaskets failed As the ones removed look really clean and came off easy and in the process found a damaged timing guide and just replaced the guides and kept the timing chains ( for whatever reason) and the engine was then just slapped together as some of the bolts came undone really easy and the oil side just had a quick clean out aswell and masking what "killed" the engine but overall I would say that the engine is a good engine but needs a tiny bit of work to get it back to how it should be
Watching this makes me really appreciate the simplicity of the engine in my classic car. No fancy computers or fuel injection or wiring harnesse..no tons of plastic either.
Yup, I’d rather swap a new engine into my 58 than do even sparks plugs on one of these. Had the engine out in under three hours the other night, time for something different but man it’s just pretty easy for the most part. Takes longer if I pull the trans with it but there’s not need most of the time plus everything else there’s tons of room to access and get to. It makes wrenching fun, owning something like this would certainly not make it enjoyable. I love my newish Japanese cars but for wrenching I’ll stick to the oldies Americans.
@@rallyauto34 yeah it's not difficult, I know that. Funny you mention american ford engines.. my old car has a ford 302 windsor and compared to the engine in the video its far more simple..which is basically what I implied before.
I am thinking that the piston and head damage was a spark plug electrode, which means it happened, and then someone replaced the plugs, which is why the ones you removed looked so good. The plastic likely came from a broken chain rail, which was replaced, but they didn't notice that one part, and they didn't notice that leaking timing chain tensioner, which was likely the cause of the entire issue.
I bet you’re right. Wasn’t shaped right to be from a broken oil cap, and there’s no way something big enough to cause a dent like that makes it past an intercooler.
Yes i wrote same thing before reading your comment, i know because i had it before. it was luckier than me , mine was stuck and did more damage. This one came out from the exhaust valve sooner i think.
the oem tensioners are garbage Any aftermarket chinese is way better than the oem Same works with the plastic Y pipe Replace them with chinese aluminum like this engine has but no other one with those 2 updates this engine will go for ever
I've got the "3.9" Ford version of the AJ in my Lincoln LS and I absolutely love it. It's such an underrated, misunderstood engine. It's physically tiny, makes incredible torque, and is just good at everything. Really great engines.
@Springvale Studios, Ipswich, Suffolk, East Anglia, UK. "...This ain't no heavy iron ford small block now is it?" Stock Ford 289, without accessories: 460 lbs. Jag AJ8: 440 lbs. That stock 289 would have iron heads and intake manifold on it, replace those with aluminum, save _at least_ 40 lbs. = 420 lbs. Don't be too quick to write off American engines as "heavy iron lumps."
@@Lazy_Tim That's something you should probably ask Enzo Ferrari. Of course, you'll have to get permission from Shelby American, since Carroll Shelby used the Ford "small block" to *_own his ass._*
Damn Man, I'm in no way an engine techie or anything close, but that was by far the best dismantle/diagnose video EVER. Thank you and I hope other creators take note!!
I've commented on this before, but the manufacturer recommended oil change intervals were ridiculously far apart, and that makes up a huge part of how often they failed. Design, complexity, cost cutting and so on are all very obvious reasons too, but in some cases it was every 15,000 miles (with Jaguar specifically)
I work in a quick-lube shop (yes, yes, I know.) and the oil that comes out of the newer German vehicles with long oil change intervals are in general the absolute *blackest* and smelliest oil besides diesel trucks. I recommend to friends with German cars to roughly half the interval on oil changes assuming it's not a lease vehicle. 5,000 to 7,500 kilometers is still longer than I'd personally go in any of my cars, but it's at least better.
I’ve got the AJ 34 in my 2007 Jaguar XJ8 which is the 4.2L V8. I’ve got 231k miles on it and have changed the oil every 3k miles. Crazy they’d recommend every 15k miles. The 4.2L’s seem to be the more stout motor
Yup! So much complexity and reliance on oil to hydraulically actuated cam phasers and chain tensioners. Plus higher specific output and heat adds up to a self eating engine.
I think jag meant 15000kms, not miles, but the only thing that changed in the manual was the units, not the numbers in front of it. 15000km is about 10000 miles. pretty normal to go 10k miles now on good oil, but 15000 is pushing it if you are not testing the oil and if you do a lot of short trips.
I believe Consumer Reports played a big part in the extended oil change fiasco when they started putting emphasis on "cost of ownership". They recommend cars that have lower routine maintenance cost (ie: fewer oil changes) and downgrad vehicles that higher routine maintenance cost (ie: what used to be the more practical intervals of past vehicles). Became logical for manufactures to enter the lower cost of ownership war.
Our 13 Range Rover sport had this engine. It was actually a really good motor. Only had to replace supercharged pulley and a few related parts at about 90k miles We bought it new. Had a few other issues but engine was a reliable beast!
"Timing was never bad on this" 😂 Been working on these engines for 10 years... 5 things they messed up on these engines.. 1 oil intervals from the dealer, 2 timing designs, 3 head bolts threads trips out when overheated, 4 no oil pressure switch, 5 no temperature gauges on Jaguar models (back to number 3). And thank you very much!
Yeah, I change oil twice a year in me 2013 RRS SC, for winter and summer, about every 3k miles or so. 5w30 RedLine real, true synthetic unlike all those Castrols, Mobiles, etc.
No oil pressure switch!?! WOW I didn't know that. I'm stunned since these things put out some serious power, even by today's standard. I often wonder if JLR extends the oil change intervals because they know the vast majority of initial new car purchases will be leased? I only say that because BMW does very similar things, and again, are heavily leased and provides cover for the new car buyer.
@hellkitty1014 the weirdest thing is that it has a level sensor but its too late whenever it runs out of oil.. older models uses oil pressure and cuts out the engine automatically..
The should be two colour marks on the chain. The yellow mark goes on the chain goes in line with the groove on the pump cam at 12 oclock, the woodruff key on the crank should be at 6 oclock (bottom), the other colour mark goes on this. The bottom part of the sump came into the factory fitted to the sump, there was no need to remove this.
My Double Six Jaguar tear down at Fourintune Garages Inc. required a full day of removing the acorn nuts to dig down to the rocker arms. Eventually we held the crank in our hands. So much fun. Super video son. Thank you very much.
Edit: the pipe leading up to the left valve cover is an oil drain. These engines are designed to do oil changes from the top of the vehicle. You pump the oil out through that pipe using a vacuum pump and the oil filter is on top. I’ve only done a little bit of work on the 5.0SC (stopped working on them when they were still fairly new), but I’ve done a lot of work on the 4.2SC and they are absolutely stupid to work on. Coolant hoses running everywhere, lots of leaks, zero thought put into the design. The worst repair I ever had to do on one was fuel injectors (port, not DI). I think it was like an 8 hour job, and I think we had to order like 30 individual gaskets and seals for the job, which took literally hours on the phone with the Jaguar parts person to describe that we needed. Absolutely stupid how these things are built. The 1 piece high pressure line makes sense, joints are just another place to leak, which is unbelievably dangerous when taking about gasoline under 2000+ psi. What doesn’t make sense (except to JLR engineers apparently) is running the lines behind the engine mount bracket. But, par for the course for JLR design I’d say. As a tech who used to work for a European specialty shop, I have nothing good to say about JLR. All horribly designed from a service/repair standpoint, and all terribly unreliable.
Hi Eric, thanks for another great video. In the last few months I've started going through your entire teardown history and have watched most of them now. You've definitely got a knack for making a simple snappy and witty video without any BS. Keep it up. This engine was definitely a bit more complicated and unusual than your average teardown, and I quite enjoyed it for what it revealed. Love that you're trying to maintain some variety. As far as future teardowns go, I'd love to see any of the following: Toyota: 4AGE/GTE/GZE 3SGTE Nissan: RB20/25/26 (twin cam preferred) Mazda: KF-DE, KF-ZE, KL-DE, KL-ZE, KL-G4 Subaru: EZ30, EZ36 Thanks again, keep up the good work
Being the owner of a salvage business means never having to cry over blown up motors, transmissions, body parts, chassis parts, etc. All those things that made real tears come to the eyes of the car's owners. Good thing, because being surrounded by tens of thousands of dollars of carnage would otherwise be unbearable. Thanks for the video!
As usual, great video 👍 I don't know why, but I get an Adam Sandler vibe when I watch these videos, in a good way. Thank you for making these teardowns.
That pipe coming up to the oil cap is for oil evacuation. Those engine are designed to have the oil suctioned out and not remove the drain plug. Awesome teardown!
@@warphammerThe oil extractor tools work the best but any vacuum tool that will hold at least 8 quarts will work. It takes forever unless the oil is up to temp.
@@warphammer Just note that that is the best way to do it - but they still have the old school drain plug you can use. Lots of the more advanced modern cars now do oil changes this way - at least the European types. I don't have much knowledge of American designs.
I just wanted to thank you!!! I have been watching you doing these take downs for a while now and because of it I called and got a computer for my jeep and it took care of the issues I was having I love watching you take down these special engines. You help me in knowing them better and I now have a great source for parts in my business keep up the good work
Totally agree---returned due to noise. I bet that with new timing components, this engine would've been fine (even with the light piston damage). I guess we'll never know where the mystery plastic piece came from
The biggest weakness of these engines is the timing chain tensioner rails. Up to 2012, they wear where the tensioner pushes on them. At around 90,000 miles, the tensioner rails are so worn, they can no longer keep the timing chains tight. The chains jump time, and the valves get broken off and destroy the engine. I have bore scope photos of piston tops with valves embedded in them. Later engines have a steel button on the rail where the tensioner pushes on it. I can't believe the engineers let that one get past them.
If you ever get the opportunity and have the inclination I would love to see the Rover and the Ford engine pulled down as a tandem strip. I just think the side by side teardown would be amazing.
@@imabebebebe2496 he said this was a jag engine, and there was FoMoCo all over this. ima say thats definitely a thing. also, i hopefully detect sarcasm but the internet doesnt translate that well
@@VictorGalayda yeah, but that doesn't mean this is related to the Coyote. They're completely different engines. Only commonalities are cylinder count, bank angle, number of valves, and number of camshafts. The engineering legwork on the JLR 5.0 was done near the end of Ford's ownership of Jaguar and Land Rover, and IIRC the agreement they came to with TaTa said that Ford had to supply parts for the engines until they were phased out (might be wrong about that part, please correct me if I am), hence the FoMOCo stamped on a lot of the smaller bits.
Hey, JLR mechanic here. The steel timing tensioners would dig into the aluminum guide rails causing the loose timing chains seen here. They would cause noise and then jump time, turning on the check engine light. Lack of oil changes made this problem worse. JLR came out with updated timing chain rails that had a steel insert to prevent this problem. The AJ 5.0 L V8 and especially the 3.0 L V6 (the same engine minus 2 cylinders) have a long list of problem spots and seldom last longer than 120 K miles
Do you know why people say you have to remove the injectors to remove the valve covers? I only ask because in the video he just turned the injectors to let the cover clear.
Those impacts have an issue with the retainer ball in the chuck getting stuck. I have the same one and it did it when it was new. Not hard to take apart and free it up. There are videos on here showing you how
That is suction tube on the left side head (Bank2). You actually sump the oil out of the pan using that tube. And Yes, you have to align the timing marks for the crank to the HPFP and the Camshafts... what a nightmare when not on a stand, and say in an Ftype!
The oiling system on that engine was both extremely impressive, but also an exercise in overengineering. Looks like many things would be very difficult to fix with the engine in the car. Based on this and other videos, it seems like the oil pressure fed tensioners are really the downfall on many engines. The oil pressure goes low for whatever reason (And during startup) and then you have noise, or far worse, jumped timing. I think a simple spring would be a much better idea, or, a back-up spring for when the oil pressure is low.
When my 05 Nissan Maxima sits around for a few days I hear the timing chain slapping upon cold startup, I then turn the engine off wait a few seconds and start it back up and then it's quite. The common repair is to replace the chain tensioners and chain guides, difficult with the engine in but not impossible, VQ35DE engine.
I changed my coolant crossovers in the SCv6 version of this motor, I watched very carefully and saw the two plastic coolant pipes you pulled which were such a pain with the engine in the car. Thanks for the fantastic vid and tear down, cheers!
If you have the time it may be worth it to look up the parts for your Milwaukee tool. I’ve had a Milwaukee drill for the past 10 years, and it’s used everyday. It’s one of the last brushed versions, before they switch to their fuel brush-less system. Anyway it finally crapped out, and needed brushes, and all the rubber parts had worn off, so I thought I’d just replace it. I looked up the parts first though, and a new drill body/handle with brushes was under 50 bucks. It’s like brand new again, good for another 10 years.
Greetings from Newcastle, England. Just discovered your channel, the teardowns are awesome. They’re helping me get through the boredom of being laid up in bed with covid 👍
Nice job. Simple enough engine to work on. I think that’s probably covered about 200k. The crank just needs polishing and new shells. 1 new piston although I would replace the set. Cheap enough. Rehone the bores. The rest is just nuts and bolts. As for the chains and that missing plastic, someone has changed them before without replacing the tensioners. And they’ve put pre mod ones in. So it was probably done some years ago. In the uk at least there are companies that reline the supercharger rotors with that hard plastic.
I’ve never seen this specific engine torn down. But it actually looks a lot like a WAY over engineered terminator cobra engine. Thank you, I learned some things.
@@BillWilliams-p4o nope, Jaguar took the Ford V8 Engine in the past when FOrd owned Jaguar and make it better (with fords money). When Ford comes and says: give us the enginered engine Jaguar said "No" 🤣
Here's an old solution to keeping a tool on the impact: Put a piece of paper or cloth around the end of the extension. It takes up the slack holding the tool. (voilà)
I've had the "pleasure" of working on these shits, mostly maintenance but there was one where i did a thermostat, which is relatively easy, but in the removal process I broke the little 45' nipple that sits in the water pump. I tried to find it separately but it would take too long from ebay so I instead had to get the complete water pump from Rover. The nipple really likes to break, if anyone does a t-stat or any hoses - watch out and keep 400-500 bucks on hand for a pump. There's also a plastic piece behind the pump that mates to it and a crossover tube, get that as well because you do not want to go in there again over a 10-15 dollar plastic piece. Also, the supercharger belt is in front of the accessory belt. If you need an accessory belt, you need to remove the blower belt and tensioner with bracket because the accessory belt wraps around an idler pulley that faces toward the timing cover. The accessory belt tensioner has to come out for the same reason. At least the socket sizes aren't unusual and consistent.
You are supposed to "turn" the injectors 90 degrees to take the valve covers off. Those engines are ALWAYS maintained to the highest degree, and "SHOULD" last 300-500K miles, but never do because the cars loose their value so quickly. And Sadly, like the Rolls Royce Merlin engines of WW2, they are beautifully made, yet sold to the mass's to go to war on the worlds highways. Work of ART inside that engine.
Where do you land rover guys get these wild predictions? Which by the way, never pan out. "Should last 500k miles" yea buddy, and I own a unicorn, I bought it with my leprechaun gold.
It's kinda interesting that the oil manufacturers specify an absolute limit for mileage, and the vehicle manufacturers just started running with that as the new standard.
Not sure if you've ever heard this before. Those connectors are priceless. So many times I've seen damage to wiring and needed a connector to do a repair but unable to get a factory replacement.
No random inspection ports, no signs of overheating, no piston McNuggets, no Forbidden Glitter, all connecting rods connected . . . that's probably the least damaged engine I've seen you tear down so far. It makes a nice change.
Problem with the early 5.0L s/c AJ/V8 is that the tensioner pins get stuck in the softer material of the chain guide. JLR know about this and have modified tensioners from 2017 (iirc) onwards so that they have a metallic plug in the guide that has the same hardness as the tensioner pin.
Have a relative of this engine in my 04 V8 LS. Great engines, when they aren't overheating. 280hp was not bad for the time, especially considering the weight of the LS at 3800 pounds or so. Though mine needs work. Due to my dad thinking he is Mr mechanic, Its got 2 of the valve cover bolts broke off in the cylinder head.
Years ago (1956) I bought an open end wrench called an aircraft wrench.The grip was on the flat side of the bolt head. Years later I bought a set of Met-Wrench Toole because of a broken spark plug. Same thing. Grips the side of the bolt. Beat the heck out of pulling the head of a Ford E150. Each size is for SAE and Metric. still works great when needed.
@@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521 yea man they take that “sealed for life” rhetoric way too serious lol, sometimes you just need to ignore the manufactures “recommended” intervals because they make money selling the vehicle, maintaining it and denying warranty even when all was done by the book. $5-$6k trans every 120-150k miles should never be a company expectation because of their maintenance schedule....fluid is a lot cheaper than a transmission for sure
Thank you! Never been a fan of the Jaaaaaaaag, personally, especially after a bad experience with the Ford/Jag 3.9L v8 that I STILL have customers coming to me for parts. Overengineered for what they are, a bastad and a half to work on... I got an earful from my Master Tech when another service writer took on the job without, y'know, bothering to consult anybody that actually knows about cars. Of course they are decently powered, and just like any other modern European sports car, the 'third-owner market' for these makes them affordable beasts to buy at auction. And run them for a year or so before they blow up. I love seeing how these things come to be broken. It's like watching the recreation of a train wreck - you know what is going to happen, but you can't help but grab the popcorn and watch it unfurl in all of its gory glory. I also love the fact that, no matter how old or new the engine is, once you strip out the electronics and all of the accessories, the model of suck-squeeze-bang-blow hasn't changed in over a century. Doesn't matter if you're a 100 year-old Model T or a modern TFG, it all gets recognizable once you hit the bare-bones long block. Thank you for every minute of footage you give us. There is so much knowledge to be gained from watching these, and every video I learn something new even on the engines I thought I knew like the back of my hand. Engine Requests: Chrysler: Slant Six, MORE HEMIS, 1.4L FIRE, 3.3/3.8, 318/360 Ford: 300 Inline Six, Windsor, FE, 1.0 EcoBoost, 1.4 EcoBoost, 4-Valve Modular, 5.2 Voodoo, 6.7 PowerStroke General Motors: 3100/3400/3800 Olds, LUW/LWE 1.8l i4, L5P Duramax Honda: B Series, D Series, K Series Nissan: VC20 Subaru: FJ series, EZ30/36 Toyota: 1GZ-FE, 1ZZ or 2ZZ Other: DT466 Old School Unicorns: GM 702 Twin-Six, Oldsmobile 5.7 Diesel, LT5 Lotus (C4 ZR1), Ford Trinity Modern Unicorns: Toyota 1LR-GUE, Chevrolet Gemini, 7.3 Godzilla
I'm a strong believer in these engines AS LONG CHANGE THE OIL AND FIX THE TIMING GEAR ISSUE. A weekend in the garage and $700 in parts and tools is all it took for my XKR-S and I couldn't be happier. I've noticed that in the jag community, there's alot of folks who have it in their heads that because jag developed the engine, they knew what's best for it. It's usually people who just throw their money at mechanics rather than familiarize themselves with the engine, and that's why there are so many failures.
@@lelandgray8996 the early 5.0 engines from JLR had an issue where the steel timing chain tensioner would slowly wear a hole into the aluminum chain guides, causing loss of chain tension.
As somebody who owns a car with this engine it is a fantastic engine as far as performance. I recently had the "Medusa" hose or coolant crossover pipe(heater manifold pipe) burst, I was quoted 5-7k for repair. I ended up doing it myself and boy was that a job tool 4 days but I ended up getting it done, there were about 50 bolts that needed to come off in order to remove the intercooler, and supercharger to get to the pipe. The good thing about the specific version of the configuration you have here is that the coolant crossover and the "Y-pipe" are both the metal version, on many versions they use plastic pipes that brake and degrade very fast and require the removal of the super charger.
That was a really interesting tear down. A complex design with some odd aspects (cam in the oil pan to drive the high pressure fuel pumps). Thanks for staying with that one, it was interesting without major carnage. As someone else commented, I wonder if someone was in there doing the chain guides before and that is where the plastic came from and how the FOD happened to that piston. And, great score on that Mustang, hope you make good money on that, as well as this engine.
I appreciate this is old news, but the high pressure fuel pump design is because they re-used the previous port-injected 4.2 litre design to make this engine. The top end is pretty tight (and already had production supercharger designed etc), so the easiest place to add the HPFPs was down in the bottom end. A relatively small change to parts which needed minor casting changes etc, rather than redesigning all the inlet components.
The complexity of this engine makes the older rover/buick V8 look easy. I am still hoping to see one of those on the channel at some point. The later 4.0 is the best of the bunch
Some engines produce oil varnish by their shitty design. I’ve seen some very well maintained and yet when doing simple valve cover seals, the interior was quite varnished for the mileage. 🤷🏻♂️
Eric, I love seeing you make theoretical boat loads of money on engines as much as seeing ones that went to Valhalla. Would love to see more winners! Awesome work.
You don't have to buy new tools for existing fasteners. Eventually they'll run out of shapes. Found a pentagon Allen screw the other day. Luckily I could get some vise grips on it.
The reason they make the new fasteners is actually for licensing fees. When torx was old enough they made torx plus so they could keep getting them royalties.
The play in the supercharger isn't because of soft material. It's a set (3) of spring steel pins in the coupler that allow some buffer for vibration. They wear out and the slot the springs are in basically becomes a 1/4 inch slot that allows the engagement pins to slide that 1/4 inch distance back and forth without the resistance the spring would provide. So it becomes sloppy with that play you noted. It's not a big deal but whenever you take off the supercharger to replace the inevitable Y cooling pipe failure (that fails after about 4 to 5 years), most people replace the supercharger coupler with a solid design that is softer but tends to last basically forever. It's all over YT. Oh I should add, the Y pipe that fails is only on the 3.0 V6 because it's plastic but you can replace it with aluminum. 5.0 comes with aluminum Y pipe. And that bolt you found happened to me too. If someone has taken the supercharger off which I'm betting they did on yours and I KNOW they did on mine, I believe they dropped the bolt into the valley as they put the top of the supercharger back on. They gave up looking for it and put a new bolt in. In my case I found one bolt that wasn't like the others. Obviously they didn't want to hassle finding the original design and they just through a standard bolt in. Then I found the original in the valley like you did.
This one must have been built while Ford was with Jaguar. I noticed the FoMoCo on the leaky chain tensioner. As always, I enjoyed the tear down. They crammed a lot of stuff in a limited space on this one!
As someone whovs worked on quite a few of these AJ8 in various sizes, the 5.0 was the least reliable because of three main issues: Timing chain guides, there's an updated part number for them but it's a very labor intensive job. Also the adjustable cams get stuck because of the extended oil change intervals but can be cleaned pretty easily during a timing chain guide replacement. Water pump goes bad pretty regularly and if not caught will blow a head gasket and at the worst melt these engines. Third is the plastic coolant pipes. They fail pretty regularly. Internally aside from the timing chain guides they're solid engines and aside from the timing chain issues of the 5.0, the 4.2 and 4.4 go 300k+ miles without any major issues.
i’m getting ready to buy parts for my 5.0 sc that skipped timing(117k miles). so far i got all 4 sprockets and the chain kit, what else should i change while getting this job done?
@@hoeman45 Just make sure it didn't bend any valves, replace the chain with the sprockets while you're in there as lack of oil changes makes chains stretch as oil loses it's lubricating properties, make sure it's a reputable parts manufacturer for the guides, tensioners, chain and speocket and be careful as the adjustable cam gears are spring loaded and may pop, get a decent cam lock tool kit, they work for the 3.0 and 5.0 engines. Aside from timing you should go ahead and upgrade the front and rear crossover coolant pipes with the aftermarket aluminum ones as those two areas are the most likely culprits for future leaks, aluminum pipes are basically a permanent fix, be careful of the rear tube on the water pump when putting it back together, getting it all lined up can either go together really easy or really suck and it's all about feel as you really can't stick a mirror or camera back there to see the tube line up. After all is said and done just keep oil changes to the new recommended interval of 5k instead of the old 15k and the timing components should last just about forever.
@@CheekyChan thank you! also, is there anyway i can tell if the vavles are bent without diving into it? it starts, with a rough idle and slight knock sound. misfiring in a few cylinders and over advanced bank 1 code.
@@hoeman45 Was your timing chain rattling before this happened? If it happened out of nowhere my best guess is that your cam phaser is stuck and HOPEFULLY the knock is just pre-ignition because it can't adjust timing on that cam or possibly hydraulic lifter being slapped if it's more of a tapping noise and not a knock. Does the knock sound like it's top end or bottom end? It's easy enough to check the intake valves but a pain to check the exhaust valves as you'd have to drop the exhaust manifold which isn't an easy task on these cars. Another thing you can do is pull spark plugs and use a 360 boroscope to check for any piston to valve contact on the affected bank, check piston and valve both for any contact marks or bending of the valves. Even a slight tap is pretty easy to see but there's no gaurantee that when you put it back together that the noise will go away if it did manage to just barely bend a valve.
15K oil changes - Jaguar recommend. Synthetic oil may keep its lubricating properties over 15K but it will also carry the accumulated contaminants. 5-6K miles with synthetic please!!!
When you say this engine has alot of bolts. I would say that may be an understatement! I was actually getting stressed out just watching you in the disassembly thinking thankfully you video taped the entire ordeal. I seen another video where the engine had very similar oil fed chain tensioners. Crazy enough after replacing the chain and the tensioners without removing the engine it started up and ran perfectly. For some reason I seem to remember just the gasket set was like $1000 not including the chains and the tensioners. In any case since there was all most no damage to this engine. I was thinking wouldn't it be great if you had all the parts to reassemble it on the spot. Then get it started to be sold as a complete running engine. Or to find a compatible vehicle to drop that 500 hp pile of bolts into. Most likely at least a hundred thousand subscribers just chomping at the bit to help make my dream come true. Hey, Sorry I got a bit side tracked there...
I'm a retired (disabled) mechanic, and to be honest, while i do like the carnage, i actually really like to see you get good parts to sell. I do not know anything about Jaguar engines. but I seriously like European engines due to their different way of thinking. they seem to value reliability and longevity over the American way of thinking. which is how can we make this thing last long enough to get out of warranty, while making it as cheap as we can. I'm glad you got a good engine this time. and it looks like you are going to make out really good on the Mustang engine as well.
Potentially could have used a fuel system and new timing chain tensioners, other than that I don't think anything was really wrong with it. (Minus the light piston and head damage. But minor things like that are actually fairly common)
Hopefully you fix your impact. Usually those chucks have pretty basic retainers with parts readily available from somewhere like ereplacementparts. Probably a broken spring or something in this case
While carnage is awesome to see. It is also great to see some wins as well. The Ford Years of the Jags and Land Rovers were extremely complicated engines. They were a colab efforts from Ford, Jag, and Mazda engineers. Where I work, we have one customer that has a Land Rover. One of the other techs in our shop put a transmission in it. And ever since. The boss will not take in any EURO cars for major work anymore (Thank GOD). The trans job called for 10 hours. The tech was bold and did the job. And since there was a bunch of special tools needed. It took him almost 17 hours to do the job. Lesson learned the hard way. I just watched and stayed the hell out of the way. I knew better. It's good to see useable parts from time to time. And that Mustang is a great win for you. Great video as always.
Dude! Awesome! I have the AJV6 in my Landy, which is just this with the last 2 cylinders blocked. I've never seen one disassembled before. I learned so much.
Pull out on the release on the Milwaukee and turn while holding out. I can't remember if it's clockwise or counter or both but you'll hear and feel a click and that should "reset" the retention mechanism for your bits
This could be a pretty old engine, I don't remember if he mentioned a year. I have a Volvo V60 that has a lot of FoMoCo parts here and there. IDK how many are on the engine but the rest of the body there are a good many as the platform was shared with the Focus (especially the RS & ST in Europe/Asia/Aus/SA which had the I5 engine as well IIRC)
Ford built these V8 SC engines for JLR up until the 2021 model year (for the full size Range Rover, 2022 for the RR Sport). Now they're sourced from BMW.
When I had to do my supercharger removal I have to visit the dealership to buy some replacements for some parts that I "altered" during teardown. During that time I was able to talk to some of the technicians there and also probe their brains a bit, they were super nice and VERY helpful. For some reason I figured a high end dealership would be more stuck up. Shout out to the Jaguar guys in Lakewood Colorado.
Do a differential (leak-down type) compression test before doing the teardown... That will tell you a LOT... Then, disect the oil filter element to get a better look at it... Read up on the TSB's or Re-calls on the engine before tearing it down further... Chances are, if you have a good engine, you will know with those 3-things...With that being said, you DID find definite problems with this engine, because you DID do the tear-down... And because if those discoveries, you saved somebody a lot of headaches, you provided your viewers a great service here on You Tube, and You will earn good money selling the valuable parts from this machine... Cudo's to you, Amigo!!!
Been thinking about this : My bet is whoever bought this tried to turn it over via the crank pulley, and the timing slipped just like it did in the video. They promptly noped on it. More than likely, fixing the timing, it would have run just fine.
Its amazing to see the engines you tear down. I work in automotive manufacturing designing the manufacturing automation & you can get so wrapped up in sensors to check for loose bolt torque on a critical piece for clamping a valve body for face-milling that you forget about the rest of the drive train. Its kinda wild to see all these engines & when & where automakers choose chain vs belt vs gear driven components, some of these bug me on what the data looked like for these engineering choices and frankly I look down on engineering that needs a bunch of external fuel/coolant/oil pipe & tubing, an engine design team working properly would have all these channels cast into the block which requires the entire engineering program to be an authority in the others' fields and be able to visualize the entire 4-stroke process including heat migration & expansion of the localized parts of the block: there is a symbiosis between temperature, rotational speed, and lubrication-localized cooling. FMEA modelling software should enable an engineer to reach a higher state of consciousness with the localized heat generation-metal expansion & vibration & its effects. MLS gasket design engineers are the oracles of truth with ICE at every performance envelope, there is no ICE engine that can escape the engineering constraints of their MLS gasket.
Thanks for the teardown. I've always wondered about the Jaguar 5 litre V8 turbocharged. It looks in really good condition and clearly well engineered for most part. The engine is let down by the plastic parts. Change those for metal and you would have a bullet proof engine I suspect. It could have been a worthy successor to the XK
I've been watching your videos for a while, and while I am interested in the "carnage" as you put it, the last while I have been paying more attention to the wear and tear issues, such as valve train, piston scuff, etc. I have a 20 yr old ecotec with 220k, and was prompted by another UA-camr that suggested valve train work at half that mileage. I tend to agree with the old saying "it it ain't broke don't fix it", and seeing items like chain guides with hardly any wear even on engines with indifferent maintenance has confirmed that for me.
Have you ever really had someone ask you for certain "used" parts? Timing guides, water pump etc? Love your channel, it's definitely a part of my weekend morning ritual
I don't know why, but I love it when you throw the head gasket. I get a kick out of these videos. If only people would change their oil more often, many of these engines wouldn't be dead so quickly.
I’m a Land Rover technician and that ford engine looks like the coyote’s 5.0 cousin. Different components by Land Rover, different blower, and more things, the engine is decent with good maintenance, we haven seen some in the 250k miles mark, but to get there you have to spend a lot of money. He had trouble getting the injector out, even with the special tool sometimes they are very difficult to remove and sometimes the plastic cracks. We do not rebuild engines due to quality replacement parts available. If you try to get new bearings pistons etc is impossible trough JLR, so most of them are used or new engines installed in vehicles, most common failure overheating due to leaking crossover pipe. Great video! And trust me to remove a lot of the components in the engine bay is a interesting task most of the time.
Since you're a tech, what would your opinion be on. 2018 V8 RR with 50k miles good service history? Engine wise is it a no go?
@@TortugaDeRio check for carfax history on maintenance, Land Rover calls for 20k miles oil changes, if you follow that you will be needing an engine soon. Not too much maintenance due till 60k miles, diffs, transfer box, transmission. 50k miles still low mileage if the basic oil change was made regularly. But fair warning if you get one, better love it or will get the best of you!
But isn't the AJ133 an extensive update/improvement to the Jaguar AJ-V8 and is technically a part of this engine family which was an in-house design from Jaguar beginning just before Ford acquired them?
I know there's some components that have FoMoCo stampings on them which makes sense considering these engines & components were built at the Bridgend plant which was owned by Ford but I'm confused as to how the Ford Modular V8 engine family would have a direct connection to the Jaguar AJ-V8 engine family when they were both designed & engineered at different times and by completely different car companies.
@@crazyjkz since 2004 Ford supplies engines for Land Rover jaguar in Europe for their diesel platforms, most likely working together to redesign the v8? Don’t know, I’m not an engineer, but in all vehicle we tear down at the shop has it particular markings of manufacture, come citröen, Peugeot, bmw, fomoco, jlr. Is just my personal opinion but why would I design an engine and put somebody else’s name?? Hard core ford fan? Maybe?
Jag designed AJ-V8 1st Gen V8 and AJ-133 2nd Gen V8 in England, without Ford Engine Engineering input, save a few “parts bin” parts. Ford Powertrain Operations Engine Engineering designed the Modular V8 without Jag Engineering input.
This is off topic but it is important for me to say. I've done some public speaking in the past, and you my friend are a natural public speaker. Let me expand on that. You are very articulate in that you don't stumble over your words. You don't mumble your or add a bunch of "umms" or "uhhs" when you speak. In my opinion, and others too, the ability to connect with the audience quickly is vital to success. You do that. Your knowledge base is solid and you welcome comments. I don't know much about engines but I enjoy your videos. Good work. Cheers
Don’t sweat it that this engine wasn’t blown up. It’s cool to see these tear-downs on more complicated/exotic engines even without any carnage. And you’re interesting to watch either way. Keep up the good work!
Thank you for doing this one! I had a 2010 Jaguar XF Supercharged with this engine until I sold it in May of last year. I had an ECU tune that jacked it up to about 550hp and had it from 42k miles until about 85k miles, so let me tell everyone about the quirks.
1: The coolant system is the main weakness. The water pump design is absolute garbage. I had to replace the pump right after I bought it, then again at about 75k miles. Pretty typical for these. It's not a terrible job, but not cheap either. The other issue, which luckily I didn't have, was with the crossover pipe. That was that flat black coolant pipe he removed from the rear of the motor. They are seam welded and not very robust. After many heat cycles, it gets brittle and starts splitting at the seam, and it's not an easy thing to get to. There are a ton of other plastic fittings that get brittle which I didn't have a problem with in 4.5 years of ownership, but I knew I was on borrowed time, which was why I sold it.
2: As everybody knows, the timing system sucks on these. It's a craps shoot. I never had any major chain noise, but as other comments have mentioned, the Jaguar 15k mile oil change interval is bullshit. I changed my oil religiously at 5k miles. Apparently, there are small oil passages in the tensioner that can clog up, slowing down how fast it builds tension. Too little tension at startup for too long wears out the guides. These 5.0's were apparently much better in the timing chain/tensioner department than the earlier 4.2's, but it's still something an owner needs to keep an eye on.
3: As he mentioned, the supercharger isolation coupler is another issue. Not a major one, but something that does need to be addressed after a time. I didn't notice any noise from mine, but I'm sure it was getting worn. On the other hand, this engine is so well insulated that you can't hear ANY supercharger whine, even at full throttle/max rpms.
4: That tube that went up to the oil fill hole was for vacuum draining the oil. I got a big vacuum pump from Harbor Freight and was able to change my own oil, which is WAAAAY cheaper than doing it at the Jag dealer. And with the cartridge oil filter up top, it's very easy to change, and makes almost no mess.
5: If well cared for, it's an amazing engine. The engine is so smooth, yet brutal with its torque all the way through the RPMS. I took my XF to the drag strip for open track night many times and it was way faster than it had any right to be. At around 4300lbs and with Continental Pilot Super Sport all seasons, I did a best time of 12.2@115mph with a 1.8 60' time. It would do consistent 12.3's. It was faster than just about every Charger/Challenger that wasn't a Hellcat, most Mustangs, and most Camaro SSs. I was usually about a tenth slower than C7 Corvettes, but they are like 700-800 lbs lighter than my beefer.
I do miss my Jag, but with it getting older I was just worried about expenses. The engine is set back in the bay, so even just a spark plug change is a pain for the back cylinders. Overall, though, besides the two water pumps, which only leaked and never overheated the car, my XF was very reliable and never left me stranded from a mechanical issue. And I may or may not have had it up to 130+ on old route 66.
You love your Jag. It’s like a member of the family but in a good way
Thanks for sharing as they say in the anonymous Jag-aholic circles. Yup, oil-change with vacuum suction makes sense - no lifting the car and risking it killing you while under it, no messing with the drain plug or buying a new gasket for it, no removal of belly pans etc., just let the little pump do its big work. Some youtubers (that dude with the new VW Golf GTI who develops parts for VW tuning) claim it does a better job than draining. Greetings from Latvia.
jag land rover tech here
first of all, pretty rare to see an XF with a 5.0, those are absolutely gnarly for the smallest sedan jaguar has to offer for that year. if they were reliable id consider buying one!
but you're correct on just about everything. i've personally witnessed so many range rovers and a few jags need engines from overheating primarily, but occasional jumps in timing from something as simple as an oil change, quite literally, oil change mucked up the motor and it got towed out. as crazy as it sounds its happened.
incredibly torquey, retains its power, but so many design flaws that weren't addressed, even the earlier 5.0s/3.0s had metal outlet pipes which i havent seen a leak yet! the plastic ones, the latter unfortunately. crossover pipes i see leaking less than outlet pipes, but still fairly often and a common failure point.
not only that, jaguar/land rover's spec for cylinder head/block warpage tolerances are 8 thousandths (.008"). That is a LOT of warpage they tolerate, and typically if they cover head gaskets if its within spec, it will sooner than later just warp even further and need an engine. joy.
vacuum draining oil makes it take so little time, very little mess, and thats how jaguar land rover recommends and pushes for you to do it! plus, oil drain passage on the oil pan will just splash onto the subframe and create a mess, plus metal undershields on rovers/massive plastic belly pans on jaguars are never fun to take off or put back on. good on them but it can create messy work.
some full size 2023 rovers just picked up the third revision of the BMW N63. training has said its basically another crap shoot. once again, joy.
don't worry though, your insurance heard nothing about route 66 :)
This engine is violating a basic rule of mechanical engineering. The more parts a mechanism has the less reliable it is. This is not good overall design.
@@floatNMD Great to hear from a Jag/LR tech. Yes, it was the "smallest" sedan Jaguar offered, but it's definitely not small. I think it's something like 4200 lbs. It's a beefy car, but still not as big as the XJs, which are massive cars.
Yeah, when running it's a great engine. Torque and power for days. Brutal but smooth. It just has some design weaknesses (probably from the bean counters) that can be fatal. With as fast as Jaguars depreciate, if you can afford the maintenance, I would take one over a Charger/Challenger or anything else, really. It handled really well for such a big car with the active suspension.
I've heard that a lot of the newer Jags like the XE has BMW derived engines that are, ahem, less than reliable. It sucks because I really like the styling of the XE, but I just don't know if I want to deal with the maintenance/craps shoot.
All luxury cars are a craps shoot for reliability, really. The most reliable car I've owned, believe it or not, was a 2008 Saab 9-3 Aero (Turbo V6). I put a tune on it (about 320hp) and I had close to 100 passes down the strip. I had that about 4 years as well, and all I had to do to it was new rear shocks, some coil packs, and a cracked vacuum hose. I could knock out 13 second 1/4 mile times, then get 30mpg on the way home. But for every story like mine, there are nightmares.
I bet you do make some bank as a Jag/LR tech. I had to take my Jag to the dealer to replace a leaky diff seal and the dealer raped me for $1400... All of the indy shops that worked on Jags were booked almost 2 months out and I couldn't wait that long to fix a problem like that.
The last option for the mystery plastic is a previous set of timing guides. The two different flavors of RTV might support that idea since someone else was definitely in there.
Do you think the tensioner failed causing this engine to be returned?
@@dans_Learning_Curve it did say FoMoCo on it.
@@dans_Learning_Curve Most likely, and a good reason to return it
@dans_Learning_Curve I wonder if the head gaskets failed As the ones removed look really clean and came off easy and in the process found a damaged timing guide and just replaced the guides and kept the timing chains ( for whatever reason) and the engine was then just slapped together as some of the bolts came undone really easy and the oil side just had a quick clean out aswell and masking what "killed" the engine but overall I would say that the engine is a good engine but needs a tiny bit of work to get it back to how it should be
@@phillm156 designed by Landrover made by Ford
Watching this makes me really appreciate the simplicity of the engine in my classic car. No fancy computers or fuel injection or wiring harnesse..no tons of plastic either.
Yup, I’d rather swap a new engine into my 58 than do even sparks plugs on one of these. Had the engine out in under three hours the other night, time for something different but man it’s just pretty easy for the most part. Takes longer if I pull the trans with it but there’s not need most of the time plus everything else there’s tons of room to access and get to. It makes wrenching fun, owning something like this would certainly not make it enjoyable. I love my newish Japanese cars but for wrenching I’ll stick to the oldies Americans.
Its an American engine FORD and its not that difficult to rebuilt
@@rallyauto34 yeah it's not difficult, I know that. Funny you mention american ford engines.. my old car has a ford 302 windsor and compared to the engine in the video its far more simple..which is basically what I implied before.
I am thinking that the piston and head damage was a spark plug electrode, which means it happened, and then someone replaced the plugs, which is why the ones you removed looked so good. The plastic likely came from a broken chain rail, which was replaced, but they didn't notice that one part, and they didn't notice that leaking timing chain tensioner, which was likely the cause of the entire issue.
you a damn detective. nice thinking.
I bet you’re right. Wasn’t shaped right to be from a broken oil cap, and there’s no way something big enough to cause a dent like that makes it past an intercooler.
Yes i wrote same thing before reading your comment, i know because i had it before. it was luckier than me , mine was stuck and did more damage. This one came out from the exhaust valve sooner i think.
That's exactly what I thought too !
Yep - that’s what I came here to say… thanks for posting it first!
You actually looked right past the issue. Timing tensioner was stuck in the aluminum guide. Very common.
Yep.
What happens to the engine and valve train if this happens? Or does it just need new tensioners?
the oem tensioners are garbage Any aftermarket chinese is way better than the oem Same works with the plastic Y pipe Replace them with chinese aluminum like this engine has but no other one with those 2 updates this engine will go for ever
@@rallyauto34i really needed to see this comment you have no idea thank you
@@hoeman45 how many of those garbage have you rebuilt so far I guess none
I've got the "3.9" Ford version of the AJ in my Lincoln LS and I absolutely love it. It's such an underrated, misunderstood engine. It's physically tiny, makes incredible torque, and is just good at everything. Really great engines.
Those are actually solid engines. My cop worker has a Lincoln LS I think it’s a 07 and has almost 300k.
@Springvale Studios, Ipswich, Suffolk, East Anglia, UK. "...This ain't no heavy iron ford small block now is it?" Stock Ford 289, without accessories: 460 lbs. Jag AJ8: 440 lbs. That stock 289 would have iron heads and intake manifold on it, replace those with aluminum, save _at least_ 40 lbs. = 420 lbs. Don't be too quick to write off American engines as "heavy iron lumps."
We had that also, agree, it was a really fun, nice sounding engine, in a beautiful red metallic LS with chrome wheels. HAUTE!!!
@@OgamiItto70 Butt hurt much?
@@Lazy_Tim That's something you should probably ask Enzo Ferrari. Of course, you'll have to get permission from Shelby American, since Carroll Shelby used the Ford "small block" to *_own his ass._*
Damn Man, I'm in no way an engine techie or anything close, but that was by far the best dismantle/diagnose video EVER.
Thank you and I hope other creators take note!!
I've commented on this before, but the manufacturer recommended oil change intervals were ridiculously far apart, and that makes up a huge part of how often they failed. Design, complexity, cost cutting and so on are all very obvious reasons too, but in some cases it was every 15,000 miles (with Jaguar specifically)
I work in a quick-lube shop (yes, yes, I know.) and the oil that comes out of the newer German vehicles with long oil change intervals are in general the absolute *blackest* and smelliest oil besides diesel trucks. I recommend to friends with German cars to roughly half the interval on oil changes assuming it's not a lease vehicle. 5,000 to 7,500 kilometers is still longer than I'd personally go in any of my cars, but it's at least better.
I’ve got the AJ 34 in my 2007 Jaguar XJ8 which is the 4.2L V8. I’ve got 231k miles on it and have changed the oil every 3k miles. Crazy they’d recommend every 15k miles. The 4.2L’s seem to be the more stout motor
Yup! So much complexity and reliance on oil to hydraulically actuated cam phasers and chain tensioners. Plus higher specific output and heat adds up to a self eating engine.
I think jag meant 15000kms, not miles, but the only thing that changed in the manual was the units, not the numbers in front of it. 15000km is about 10000 miles. pretty normal to go 10k miles now on good oil, but 15000 is pushing it if you are not testing the oil and if you do a lot of short trips.
I believe Consumer Reports played a big part in the extended oil change fiasco when they started putting emphasis on "cost of ownership". They recommend cars that have lower routine maintenance cost (ie: fewer oil changes) and downgrad vehicles that higher routine maintenance cost (ie: what used to be the more practical intervals of past vehicles). Became logical for manufactures to enter the lower cost of ownership war.
Our 13 Range Rover sport had this engine. It was actually a really good motor. Only had to replace supercharged pulley and a few related parts at about 90k miles We bought it new. Had a few other issues but engine was a reliable beast!
"Timing was never bad on this" 😂
Been working on these engines for 10 years... 5 things they messed up on these engines.. 1 oil intervals from the dealer, 2 timing designs, 3 head bolts threads trips out when overheated, 4 no oil pressure switch, 5 no temperature gauges on Jaguar models (back to number 3). And thank you very much!
Yeah, I change oil twice a year in me 2013 RRS SC, for winter and summer, about every 3k miles or so. 5w30 RedLine real, true synthetic unlike all those Castrols, Mobiles, etc.
No oil pressure switch!?! WOW I didn't know that. I'm stunned since these things put out some serious power, even by today's standard.
I often wonder if JLR extends the oil change intervals because they know the vast majority of initial new car purchases will be leased? I only say that because BMW does very similar things, and again, are heavily leased and provides cover for the new car buyer.
May the Lord have mercy on your soul.. Do you still have your hair?
(thermo-)Plastic parts in an engine? Brilliant! Engineering at its finest
@hellkitty1014 the weirdest thing is that it has a level sensor but its too late whenever it runs out of oil.. older models uses oil pressure and cuts out the engine automatically..
It's an absolute beast of an engine. 510bhp and a tonne of torque makes this a blast to drive with no turbo lag
Yes, the HP pumps need to be timed to the rest of the engine. The pressure pulses they create are included in the fuelling mapping calibration.
I noticed what appeared to be a timing mark on the chain, and thought that's gotta be the case
Yes, thats correct. The HP pumps are timed also
The should be two colour marks on the chain. The yellow mark goes on the chain goes in line with the groove on the pump cam at 12 oclock, the woodruff key on the crank should be at 6 oclock (bottom), the other colour mark goes on this. The bottom part of the sump came into the factory fitted to the sump, there was no need to remove this.
My Double Six Jaguar tear down at Fourintune Garages Inc. required a full day of removing the acorn nuts to dig down to the rocker arms. Eventually we held the crank in our hands. So much fun. Super video son. Thank you very much.
Edit: the pipe leading up to the left valve cover is an oil drain. These engines are designed to do oil changes from the top of the vehicle. You pump the oil out through that pipe using a vacuum pump and the oil filter is on top.
I’ve only done a little bit of work on the 5.0SC (stopped working on them when they were still fairly new), but I’ve done a lot of work on the 4.2SC and they are absolutely stupid to work on. Coolant hoses running everywhere, lots of leaks, zero thought put into the design. The worst repair I ever had to do on one was fuel injectors (port, not DI). I think it was like an 8 hour job, and I think we had to order like 30 individual gaskets and seals for the job, which took literally hours on the phone with the Jaguar parts person to describe that we needed. Absolutely stupid how these things are built.
The 1 piece high pressure line makes sense, joints are just another place to leak, which is unbelievably dangerous when taking about gasoline under 2000+ psi. What doesn’t make sense (except to JLR engineers apparently) is running the lines behind the engine mount bracket. But, par for the course for JLR design I’d say.
As a tech who used to work for a European specialty shop, I have nothing good to say about JLR. All horribly designed from a service/repair standpoint, and all terribly unreliable.
Hi Eric, thanks for another great video. In the last few months I've started going through your entire teardown history and have watched most of them now. You've definitely got a knack for making a simple snappy and witty video without any BS. Keep it up.
This engine was definitely a bit more complicated and unusual than your average teardown, and I quite enjoyed it for what it revealed. Love that you're trying to maintain some variety.
As far as future teardowns go, I'd love to see any of the following:
Toyota:
4AGE/GTE/GZE
3SGTE
Nissan:
RB20/25/26 (twin cam preferred)
Mazda:
KF-DE, KF-ZE, KL-DE, KL-ZE, KL-G4
Subaru:
EZ30, EZ36
Thanks again, keep up the good work
Being the owner of a salvage business means never having to cry over blown up motors, transmissions, body parts, chassis parts, etc. All those things that made real tears come to the eyes of the car's owners. Good thing, because being surrounded by tens of thousands of dollars of carnage would otherwise be unbearable.
Thanks for the video!
that jag engine was like damn impact gun I'm taking you with me if you want to disassemble me🤣
As usual, great video 👍
I don't know why, but I get an Adam Sandler vibe when I watch these videos, in a good way.
Thank you for making these teardowns.
That pipe coming up to the oil cap is for oil evacuation. Those engine are designed to have the oil suctioned out and not remove the drain plug. Awesome teardown!
Does any old like vacuum bleeder fit on that tube or do you need...
*sigh*
A special tool to change the oil?
@@warphammerThe oil extractor tools work the best but any vacuum tool that will hold at least 8 quarts will work. It takes forever unless the oil is up to temp.
@@warphammer Just note that that is the best way to do it - but they still have the old school drain plug you can use. Lots of the more advanced modern cars now do oil changes this way - at least the European types. I don't have much knowledge of American designs.
Draining the oil the old way you had to remove a pretty heavy skid plate.
I just wanted to thank you!!! I have been watching you doing these take downs for a while now and because of it I called and got a computer for my jeep and it took care of the issues I was having I love watching you take down these special engines. You help me in knowing them better and I now have a great source for parts in my business keep up the good work
Really excited to watch this one. That metal tube by the chain is to evacuate the oil through. Makes the job really easy.
Your channel is like therapy to me while I'm working and I work in software, but love building engines as a hobby.
Totally agree---returned due to noise. I bet that with new timing components, this engine would've been fine (even with the light piston damage). I guess we'll never know where the mystery plastic piece came from
The biggest weakness of these engines is the timing chain tensioner rails. Up to 2012, they wear where the tensioner pushes on them. At around 90,000 miles, the tensioner rails are so worn, they can no longer keep the timing chains tight. The chains jump time, and the valves get broken off and destroy the engine. I have bore scope photos of piston tops with valves embedded in them.
Later engines have a steel button on the rail where the tensioner pushes on it. I can't believe the engineers let that one get past them.
If you ever get the opportunity and have the inclination I would love to see the Rover and the Ford engine pulled down as a tandem strip. I just think the side by side teardown would be amazing.
Sounds cool to me too.
are you implying a relationship between the Jag5.0 and the Ford coyote 5.0 ?
@@imabebebebe2496 he said this was a jag engine, and there was FoMoCo all over this. ima say thats definitely a thing. also, i hopefully detect sarcasm but the internet doesnt translate that well
@@imabebebebe2496 Did you see FoMoCo stamped on the chain tensioner? Ford used to own them before recession and TaTa becoming a new owner
@@VictorGalayda yeah, but that doesn't mean this is related to the Coyote. They're completely different engines. Only commonalities are cylinder count, bank angle, number of valves, and number of camshafts. The engineering legwork on the JLR 5.0 was done near the end of Ford's ownership of Jaguar and Land Rover, and IIRC the agreement they came to with TaTa said that Ford had to supply parts for the engines until they were phased out (might be wrong about that part, please correct me if I am), hence the FoMOCo stamped on a lot of the smaller bits.
Hey, JLR mechanic here. The steel timing tensioners would dig into the aluminum guide rails causing the loose timing chains seen here. They would cause noise and then jump time, turning on the check engine light. Lack of oil changes made this problem worse. JLR came out with updated timing chain rails that had a steel insert to prevent this problem. The AJ 5.0 L V8 and especially the 3.0 L V6 (the same engine minus 2 cylinders) have a long list of problem spots and seldom last longer than 120 K miles
Do you know why people say you have to remove the injectors to remove the valve covers? I only ask because in the video he just turned the injectors to let the cover clear.
Can you confirm which year got the updated chain guides? Did that extend the lifespan?
Seldom? Okay bud.
@@ngerbo1 I've read that the 1998 version of the 4.0/4.2 got them so I'm assuming that all 5.0's had them.
Those impacts have an issue with the retainer ball in the chuck getting stuck. I have the same one and it did it when it was new. Not hard to take apart and free it up. There are videos on here showing you how
Yeah I hope he fixes it, it's always worth the easy fixes to keep things out of the trash
That is suction tube on the left side head (Bank2). You actually sump the oil out of the pan using that tube. And Yes, you have to align the timing marks for the crank to the HPFP and the Camshafts... what a nightmare when not on a stand, and say in an Ftype!
I saw several comments on that, pretty cool!
I really enjoy your channel!!! The f140 was an amazing one too!!!
The oiling system on that engine was both extremely impressive, but also an exercise in overengineering. Looks like many things would be very difficult to fix with the engine in the car. Based on this and other videos, it seems like the oil pressure fed tensioners are really the downfall on many engines. The oil pressure goes low for whatever reason (And during startup) and then you have noise, or far worse, jumped timing. I think a simple spring would be a much better idea, or, a back-up spring for when the oil pressure is low.
When my 05 Nissan Maxima sits around for a few days I hear the timing chain slapping upon cold startup, I then turn the engine off wait a few seconds and start it back up and then it's quite. The common repair is to replace the chain tensioners and chain guides, difficult with the engine in but not impossible, VQ35DE engine.
I changed my coolant crossovers in the SCv6 version of this motor, I watched very carefully and saw the two plastic coolant pipes you pulled which were such a pain with the engine in the car. Thanks for the fantastic vid and tear down, cheers!
If you have the time it may be worth it to look up the parts for your Milwaukee tool. I’ve had a Milwaukee drill for the past 10 years, and it’s used everyday. It’s one of the last brushed versions, before they switch to their fuel brush-less system.
Anyway it finally crapped out, and needed brushes, and all the rubber parts had worn off, so I thought I’d just replace it. I looked up the parts first though, and a new drill body/handle with brushes was under 50 bucks. It’s like brand new again, good for another 10 years.
Greetings from Newcastle, England. Just discovered your channel, the teardowns are awesome. They’re helping me get through the boredom of being laid up in bed with covid 👍
Did u get over covid
@@paulmallery6719 yeah fine thanks 👍
Nice job. Simple enough engine to work on. I think that’s probably covered about 200k. The crank just needs polishing and new shells. 1 new piston although I would replace the set. Cheap enough. Rehone the bores. The rest is just nuts and bolts. As for the chains and that missing plastic, someone has changed them before without replacing the tensioners. And they’ve put pre mod ones in. So it was probably done some years ago. In the uk at least there are companies that reline the supercharger rotors with that hard plastic.
So not from the Engineers Club For The Promotion Of Insanity In Mechanics then?
Thank you for doing a jaguar!
Its nice to see european cars on this channel, just to see how they are built differently
I’ve never seen this specific engine torn down. But it actually looks a lot like a WAY over engineered terminator cobra engine. Thank you, I learned some things.
Remember this is a FORD/Jaguar engine, when Ford owned Jaguar.
@@BillWilliams-p4o nope, Jaguar took the Ford V8 Engine in the past when FOrd owned Jaguar and make it better (with fords money). When Ford comes and says: give us the enginered engine Jaguar said "No" 🤣
@@caddi1991That must be why you see so many old jaguars driving around and never any old f-150’s, expeditions, or crown vics. Oh wait…
@@kingssuck06 I never see many Jaguars because Jaguar is special in comaprison to FORDS 🤣
That’s the only engine I can recall that makes two cracking sounds for each head bolt.
Unusual
Here's an old solution to keeping a tool on the impact: Put a piece of paper or cloth around the end of the extension. It takes up the slack holding the tool. (voilà)
I've had the "pleasure" of working on these shits, mostly maintenance but there was one where i did a thermostat, which is relatively easy, but in the removal process I broke the little 45' nipple that sits in the water pump. I tried to find it separately but it would take too long from ebay so I instead had to get the complete water pump from Rover. The nipple really likes to break, if anyone does a t-stat or any hoses - watch out and keep 400-500 bucks on hand for a pump. There's also a plastic piece behind the pump that mates to it and a crossover tube, get that as well because you do not want to go in there again over a 10-15 dollar plastic piece.
Also, the supercharger belt is in front of the accessory belt. If you need an accessory belt, you need to remove the blower belt and tensioner with bracket because the accessory belt wraps around an idler pulley that faces toward the timing cover. The accessory belt tensioner has to come out for the same reason. At least the socket sizes aren't unusual and consistent.
You are supposed to "turn" the injectors 90 degrees to take the valve covers off. Those engines are ALWAYS maintained to the highest degree, and "SHOULD" last 300-500K miles, but never do because the cars loose their value so quickly. And Sadly, like the Rolls Royce Merlin engines of WW2, they are beautifully made, yet sold to the mass's to go to war on the worlds highways. Work of ART inside that engine.
Do you have any idea why people always say you have to remove tje injectors to get the valve covers off?
Where do you land rover guys get these wild predictions? Which by the way, never pan out.
"Should last 500k miles" yea buddy, and I own a unicorn, I bought it with my leprechaun gold.
I re-watched the removal of the first head and yes, it appears that you did skip breaking that bolt loose… 🤣 Excellent video as always!
It's kinda interesting that the oil manufacturers specify an absolute limit for mileage, and the vehicle manufacturers just started running with that as the new standard.
Not sure if you've ever heard this before. Those connectors are priceless. So many times I've seen damage to wiring and needed a connector to do a repair but unable to get a factory replacement.
This engine teardown was a perfect definition of "peeling back the onion"
Fun to watch
No random inspection ports, no signs of overheating, no piston McNuggets, no Forbidden Glitter, all connecting rods connected . . . that's probably the least damaged engine I've seen you tear down so far. It makes a nice change.
Problem with the early 5.0L s/c AJ/V8 is that the tensioner pins get stuck in the softer material of the chain guide. JLR know about this and have modified tensioners from 2017 (iirc) onwards so that they have a metallic plug in the guide that has the same hardness as the tensioner pin.
engines dont need to be this complex your videos are a pleasure
Have a relative of this engine in my 04 V8 LS. Great engines, when they aren't overheating. 280hp was not bad for the time, especially considering the weight of the LS at 3800 pounds or so. Though mine needs work. Due to my dad thinking he is Mr mechanic, Its got 2 of the valve cover bolts broke off in the cylinder head.
I have one too! Though I do all the work myself.
Try a left handed drill bit you would be surprised how well they can work
I have 267k on my 06 LS and my only gripe is having to replace the plastic cooling system parts every 70-80k.
Years ago (1956) I bought an open end wrench called an aircraft wrench.The grip was on the flat side of the bolt head. Years later I bought a set of Met-Wrench Toole because of a broken spark plug. Same thing. Grips the side of the bolt. Beat the heck out of pulling the head of a Ford E150. Each size is for SAE and Metric. still works great when needed.
you know its a fancy engine when it doesnt have a dip stick to fight with
If fancy is a synonym of overcomplicated, I agree.
Jags transmissions state no need to change fluid. So many failed due to tranny issues.
@@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521 True. ZF recommends 50-60k miles. They know. I do mine ZF transmission oil changes in that range and all good.
@@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521 yea man they take that “sealed for life” rhetoric way too serious lol, sometimes you just need to ignore the manufactures “recommended” intervals because they make money selling the vehicle, maintaining it and denying warranty even when all was done by the book. $5-$6k trans every 120-150k miles should never be a company expectation because of their maintenance schedule....fluid is a lot cheaper than a transmission for sure
@@unitedwestanddividedwefall3521 Done plenty of ZF services as part of most models 100k/10yr service so they do actually have an interval
Why do I like these videos? I don’t even like working on my own car? Yet I’ve been binge watching g these videos all week. Lol
Thank you!
Never been a fan of the Jaaaaaaaag, personally, especially after a bad experience with the Ford/Jag 3.9L v8 that I STILL have customers coming to me for parts. Overengineered for what they are, a bastad and a half to work on... I got an earful from my Master Tech when another service writer took on the job without, y'know, bothering to consult anybody that actually knows about cars. Of course they are decently powered, and just like any other modern European sports car, the 'third-owner market' for these makes them affordable beasts to buy at auction. And run them for a year or so before they blow up.
I love seeing how these things come to be broken. It's like watching the recreation of a train wreck - you know what is going to happen, but you can't help but grab the popcorn and watch it unfurl in all of its gory glory.
I also love the fact that, no matter how old or new the engine is, once you strip out the electronics and all of the accessories, the model of suck-squeeze-bang-blow hasn't changed in over a century. Doesn't matter if you're a 100 year-old Model T or a modern TFG, it all gets recognizable once you hit the bare-bones long block.
Thank you for every minute of footage you give us. There is so much knowledge to be gained from watching these, and every video I learn something new even on the engines I thought I knew like the back of my hand.
Engine Requests:
Chrysler: Slant Six, MORE HEMIS, 1.4L FIRE, 3.3/3.8, 318/360
Ford: 300 Inline Six, Windsor, FE, 1.0 EcoBoost, 1.4 EcoBoost, 4-Valve Modular, 5.2 Voodoo, 6.7 PowerStroke
General Motors: 3100/3400/3800 Olds, LUW/LWE 1.8l i4, L5P Duramax
Honda: B Series, D Series, K Series
Nissan: VC20
Subaru: FJ series, EZ30/36
Toyota: 1GZ-FE, 1ZZ or 2ZZ
Other: DT466
Old School Unicorns: GM 702 Twin-Six, Oldsmobile 5.7 Diesel, LT5 Lotus (C4 ZR1), Ford Trinity
Modern Unicorns: Toyota 1LR-GUE, Chevrolet Gemini, 7.3 Godzilla
Bro that’s too much lol
He has done a 4v modular
Excellent video and the complexity of that engine reminded me of why the future is electric!
I'm a strong believer in these engines AS LONG CHANGE THE OIL AND FIX THE TIMING GEAR ISSUE. A weekend in the garage and $700 in parts and tools is all it took for my XKR-S and I couldn't be happier.
I've noticed that in the jag community, there's alot of folks who have it in their heads that because jag developed the engine, they knew what's best for it. It's usually people who just throw their money at mechanics rather than familiarize themselves with the engine, and that's why there are so many failures.
Just curious, what timing gear issue?
@@lelandgray8996 the early 5.0 engines from JLR had an issue where the steel timing chain tensioner would slowly wear a hole into the aluminum chain guides, causing loss of chain tension.
@@tlmessage9196 can you see it somehow?
As somebody who owns a car with this engine it is a fantastic engine as far as performance.
I recently had the "Medusa" hose or coolant crossover pipe(heater manifold pipe) burst, I was quoted 5-7k for repair. I ended up doing it myself and boy was that a job tool 4 days but I ended up getting it done, there were about 50 bolts that needed to come off in order to remove the intercooler, and supercharger to get to the pipe.
The good thing about the specific version of the configuration you have here is that the coolant crossover and the "Y-pipe" are both the metal version, on many versions they use plastic pipes that brake and degrade very fast and require the removal of the super charger.
That was a really interesting tear down. A complex design with some odd aspects (cam in the oil pan to drive the high pressure fuel pumps). Thanks for staying with that one, it was interesting without major carnage. As someone else commented, I wonder if someone was in there doing the chain guides before and that is where the plastic came from and how the FOD happened to that piston. And, great score on that Mustang, hope you make good money on that, as well as this engine.
I appreciate this is old news, but the high pressure fuel pump design is because they re-used the previous port-injected 4.2 litre design to make this engine. The top end is pretty tight (and already had production supercharger designed etc), so the easiest place to add the HPFPs was down in the bottom end. A relatively small change to parts which needed minor casting changes etc, rather than redesigning all the inlet components.
The complexity of this engine makes the older rover/buick V8 look easy. I am still hoping to see one of those on the channel at some point. The later 4.0 is the best of the bunch
That was either very low mileage, or very well cared for as there was zero sludge, discoloration or overheating.
Some engines produce oil varnish by their shitty design. I’ve seen some very well maintained and yet when doing simple valve cover seals, the interior was quite varnished for the mileage. 🤷🏻♂️
This engine has a 8.5 quart oil capacity.
Eric, I love seeing you make theoretical boat loads of money on engines as much as seeing ones that went to Valhalla. Would love to see more winners! Awesome work.
You don't have to buy new tools for existing fasteners. Eventually they'll run out of shapes. Found a pentagon Allen screw the other day. Luckily I could get some vise grips on it.
The reason they make the new fasteners is actually for licensing fees. When torx was old enough they made torx plus so they could keep getting them royalties.
The play in the supercharger isn't because of soft material. It's a set (3) of spring steel pins in the coupler that allow some buffer for vibration. They wear out and the slot the springs are in basically becomes a 1/4 inch slot that allows the engagement pins to slide that 1/4 inch distance back and forth without the resistance the spring would provide. So it becomes sloppy with that play you noted. It's not a big deal but whenever you take off the supercharger to replace the inevitable Y cooling pipe failure (that fails after about 4 to 5 years), most people replace the supercharger coupler with a solid design that is softer but tends to last basically forever. It's all over YT.
Oh I should add, the Y pipe that fails is only on the 3.0 V6 because it's plastic but you can replace it with aluminum. 5.0 comes with aluminum Y pipe.
And that bolt you found happened to me too. If someone has taken the supercharger off which I'm betting they did on yours and I KNOW they did on mine, I believe they dropped the bolt into the valley as they put the top of the supercharger back on. They gave up looking for it and put a new bolt in. In my case I found one bolt that wasn't like the others. Obviously they didn't want to hassle finding the original design and they just through a standard bolt in. Then I found the original in the valley like you did.
This one must have been built while Ford was with Jaguar. I noticed the FoMoCo on the leaky chain tensioner. As always, I enjoyed the tear down. They crammed a lot of stuff in a limited space on this one!
The cam caps also say FoMoCo on it.
Yes this was built in Bridgend In South Wales UK. The oil pick up pipe and sump is a Jaguar one. LR had a longer pick up pipies and deeper sumps.
As someone whovs worked on quite a few of these AJ8 in various sizes, the 5.0 was the least reliable because of three main issues:
Timing chain guides, there's an updated part number for them but it's a very labor intensive job. Also the adjustable cams get stuck because of the extended oil change intervals but can be cleaned pretty easily during a timing chain guide replacement.
Water pump goes bad pretty regularly and if not caught will blow a head gasket and at the worst melt these engines.
Third is the plastic coolant pipes. They fail pretty regularly.
Internally aside from the timing chain guides they're solid engines and aside from the timing chain issues of the 5.0, the 4.2 and 4.4 go 300k+ miles without any major issues.
i’m getting ready to buy parts for my 5.0 sc that skipped timing(117k miles). so far i got all 4 sprockets and the chain kit, what else should i change while getting this job done?
@@hoeman45 Just make sure it didn't bend any valves, replace the chain with the sprockets while you're in there as lack of oil changes makes chains stretch as oil loses it's lubricating properties, make sure it's a reputable parts manufacturer for the guides, tensioners, chain and speocket and be careful as the adjustable cam gears are spring loaded and may pop, get a decent cam lock tool kit, they work for the 3.0 and 5.0 engines. Aside from timing you should go ahead and upgrade the front and rear crossover coolant pipes with the aftermarket aluminum ones as those two areas are the most likely culprits for future leaks, aluminum pipes are basically a permanent fix, be careful of the rear tube on the water pump when putting it back together, getting it all lined up can either go together really easy or really suck and it's all about feel as you really can't stick a mirror or camera back there to see the tube line up. After all is said and done just keep oil changes to the new recommended interval of 5k instead of the old 15k and the timing components should last just about forever.
@@CheekyChan thank you! also, is there anyway i can tell if the vavles are bent without diving into it? it starts, with a rough idle and slight knock sound. misfiring in a few cylinders and over advanced bank 1 code.
@@hoeman45 Was your timing chain rattling before this happened? If it happened out of nowhere my best guess is that your cam phaser is stuck and HOPEFULLY the knock is just pre-ignition because it can't adjust timing on that cam or possibly hydraulic lifter being slapped if it's more of a tapping noise and not a knock. Does the knock sound like it's top end or bottom end? It's easy enough to check the intake valves but a pain to check the exhaust valves as you'd have to drop the exhaust manifold which isn't an easy task on these cars. Another thing you can do is pull spark plugs and use a 360 boroscope to check for any piston to valve contact on the affected bank, check piston and valve both for any contact marks or bending of the valves. Even a slight tap is pretty easy to see but there's no gaurantee that when you put it back together that the noise will go away if it did manage to just barely bend a valve.
Huge undertaking Eric. Man, complicated as all heck. Hope the engine is good. Be well my man.
Fun to see this beast come apart. Nice to see you working on something that has value and parts are saved all matched up etc.
15K oil changes - Jaguar recommend. Synthetic oil may keep its lubricating properties over 15K but it will also carry the accumulated contaminants. 5-6K miles with synthetic please!!!
When you say this engine has alot of bolts. I would say that may be an understatement! I was actually getting stressed out just watching you in the disassembly thinking thankfully you video taped the entire ordeal. I seen another video where the engine had very similar oil fed chain tensioners. Crazy enough after replacing the chain and the tensioners without removing the engine it started up and ran perfectly. For some reason I seem to remember just the gasket set was like $1000 not including the chains and the tensioners. In any case since there was all most no damage to this engine. I was thinking wouldn't it be great if you had all the parts to reassemble it on the spot. Then get it started to be sold as a complete running engine. Or to find a compatible vehicle to drop that 500 hp pile of bolts into. Most likely at least a hundred thousand subscribers just chomping at the bit to help make my dream come true. Hey, Sorry I got a bit side tracked there...
I see all those FoMoCo parts just hanging around in there 👀👀
Same on my Volvo V60!
I'm a retired (disabled) mechanic, and to be honest, while i do like the carnage, i actually really like to see you get good parts to sell. I do not know anything about Jaguar engines. but I seriously like European engines due to their different way of thinking. they seem to value reliability and longevity over the American way of thinking. which is how can we make this thing last long enough to get out of warranty, while making it as cheap as we can. I'm glad you got a good engine this time. and it looks like you are going to make out really good on the Mustang engine as well.
Will we ever get an update on the LT1 heads if they were ok without leaks?
At this young age, you have so much of patience and devotion to this complex IC gasoline engine.
Potentially could have used a fuel system and new timing chain tensioners, other than that I don't think anything was really wrong with it. (Minus the light piston and head damage. But minor things like that are actually fairly common)
Would love to see a teardown of a Volvo I6 or I5. Hands down my favourite channel on YT, happy to see this core was a win for ya
Hopefully you fix your impact. Usually those chucks have pretty basic retainers with parts readily available from somewhere like ereplacementparts. Probably a broken spring or something in this case
Vice grip and slide hammer can be mated. Just need a slide hammer with a 3/8 corse thread shaft.
While carnage is awesome to see. It is also great to see some wins as well. The Ford Years of the Jags and Land Rovers were extremely complicated engines. They were a colab efforts from Ford, Jag, and Mazda engineers. Where I work, we have one customer that has a Land Rover. One of the other techs in our shop put a transmission in it. And ever since. The boss will not take in any EURO cars for major work anymore (Thank GOD). The trans job called for 10 hours. The tech was bold and did the job. And since there was a bunch of special tools needed. It took him almost 17 hours to do the job. Lesson learned the hard way. I just watched and stayed the hell out of the way. I knew better. It's good to see useable parts from time to time. And that Mustang is a great win for you. Great video as always.
Can't wait to see you do this to a C8 Vette motor.
Dude! Awesome! I have the AJV6 in my Landy, which is just this with the last 2 cylinders blocked. I've never seen one disassembled before. I learned so much.
Don’t think we didn’t notice the new cordless ratchet. Is that the new extended high speed?
I was thinking man, that thing sounds satisfying.
Wow Eric that was a lot of effort for a teardown, so many hurdles and I can't believe the dealer lent you the tool.
I love a head bolt that snaps back!! satisfying
And a big FU to engineers that cant simply use a 6 sided bolt.
Pull out on the release on the Milwaukee and turn while holding out. I can't remember if it's clockwise or counter or both but you'll hear and feel a click and that should "reset" the retention mechanism for your bits
Anyone else notice the fomoco stamping all over the engine components? I thought Ford had divested all stakes in jag and rover years ago
This could be a pretty old engine, I don't remember if he mentioned a year. I have a Volvo V60 that has a lot of FoMoCo parts here and there. IDK how many are on the engine but the rest of the body there are a good many as the platform was shared with the Focus (especially the RS & ST in Europe/Asia/Aus/SA which had the I5 engine as well IIRC)
Ford built these V8 SC engines for JLR up until the 2021 model year (for the full size Range Rover, 2022 for the RR Sport). Now they're sourced from BMW.
Eric, I for one am glad when you come out ahead on a engine.
You donate your time get a little advertising out of it.
Which none of us mine.
Damn I'd hate to put that motor back together cool tear down though ✌️
There is zero excuse for using a proprietary bolt drive. It is a miracle that the British car industry remains alive in any form.
When I had to do my supercharger removal I have to visit the dealership to buy some replacements for some parts that I "altered" during teardown.
During that time I was able to talk to some of the technicians there and also probe their brains a bit, they were super nice and VERY helpful. For some reason I figured a high end dealership would be more stuck up. Shout out to the Jaguar guys in Lakewood Colorado.
Do a differential (leak-down type) compression test before doing the teardown... That will tell you a LOT... Then, disect the oil filter element to get a better look at it... Read up on the TSB's or Re-calls on the engine before tearing it down further... Chances are, if you have a good engine, you will know with those 3-things...With that being said, you DID find definite problems with this engine, because you DID do the tear-down... And because if those discoveries, you saved somebody a lot of headaches, you provided your viewers a great service here on You Tube, and You will earn good money selling the valuable parts from this machine... Cudo's to you, Amigo!!!
Been thinking about this :
My bet is whoever bought this tried to turn it over via the crank pulley, and the timing slipped just like it did in the video.
They promptly noped on it.
More than likely, fixing the timing, it would have run just fine.
Its amazing to see the engines you tear down.
I work in automotive manufacturing designing the manufacturing automation & you can get so wrapped up in sensors to check for loose bolt torque on a critical piece for clamping a valve body for face-milling that you forget about the rest of the drive train.
Its kinda wild to see all these engines & when & where automakers choose chain vs belt vs gear driven components, some of these bug me on what the data looked like for these engineering choices and frankly I look down on engineering that needs a bunch of external fuel/coolant/oil pipe & tubing,
an engine design team working properly would have all these channels cast into the block which requires the entire engineering program to be an authority in the others' fields and be able to visualize the entire 4-stroke process including heat migration & expansion of the localized parts of the block:
there is a symbiosis between temperature, rotational speed, and lubrication-localized cooling. FMEA modelling software should enable an engineer to reach a higher state of consciousness with the localized heat generation-metal expansion & vibration & its effects.
MLS gasket design engineers are the oracles of truth with ICE at every performance envelope, there is no ICE engine that can escape the engineering constraints of their MLS gasket.
Thank for doing this engine. I currently have a Range Rover Sport 5.0L SuperCharger. It is great to see what it looks like below all that plastic.
Thanks for the teardown. I've always wondered about the Jaguar 5 litre V8 turbocharged. It looks in really good condition and clearly well engineered for most part. The engine is let down by the plastic parts. Change those for metal and you would have a bullet proof engine I suspect. It could have been a worthy successor to the XK
Its not turbocharged 😂
I've been watching your videos for a while, and while I am interested in the "carnage" as you put it, the last while I have been paying more attention to the wear and tear issues, such as valve train, piston scuff, etc. I have a 20 yr old ecotec with 220k, and was prompted by another UA-camr that suggested valve train work at half that mileage. I tend to agree with the old saying "it it ain't broke don't fix it", and seeing items like chain guides with hardly any wear even on engines with indifferent maintenance has confirmed that for me.
Thank you for your video. It's about 2 weeks since i bought a 2013 Range Rover luxury sport, now i know what to look for on this engine.
Give Rainman Ray a shout out for recommending your channel, love watching you tear down these engines.
All of this complexity makes me think back to the classic 4.2 streight six from the XKE. Those were the days.
Cheers
That has got to be the most well engineered engines I've ever seen.
to answer your question to bend the hp lines to remove valve cover that’s a yes !
Have you ever really had someone ask you for certain "used" parts? Timing guides, water pump etc? Love your channel, it's definitely a part of my weekend morning ritual
I don't know why, but I love it when you throw the head gasket. I get a kick out of these videos. If only people would change their oil more often, many of these engines wouldn't be dead so quickly.