Height of Outlet & Switch Boxes & Receptacle Location Tips
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- Опубліковано 5 сер 2024
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In this video we go over the different heights that receptacles and switches should be mounted at. I also give some examples of different locations that you should consider adding outlets, switches, and bedside lights.
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0:00 - Switch & Outlet Box Height Intro
0:26 - Height For Light Switches
1:50 - Height Of Kitchen Counter Receptacles
2:15 - General Purpose Receptacles Height
7:07 - Real-World Examples
12:17 - SUBSCRIBE!!!
Blessings,
Ben
No lie, i have learned more from this young man than my trade school which i paid 17k 🥺.. thank you 🙏🏼
Lol I paid 26 for my trade school.
Dang
17k over 1.5 yrs maybe. Just curious. I dont think is that bad in north am or eu
😂
A good mentor is priceless.
I've never wired a brand new house, but when rehabbing rooms, I match the lower outlet height to whatever the nearest room already has.
However, I've wired 3 brand new garage/workshops. If you lean a 4x8 sheet up against the wall, and you set it atop a 1x2 or 2x4 to keep the bottom edge up off the wet floor, then the top of your sheet could be 49.5" off the floor. To keep those sheets from blocking outlets, I put the *bottom* of my outlet boxes 54" above the floor. This height still keeps them below the upper cabinets, which I mount 60" above the floor. I'm 6'1", and my workshops have never been wheelchair-friendly anyway, so having higher outlets isn't a problem.
The only time this height has been a problem is when we hosted a party in my workshop. The folding tables on which the food sat were rather low, and the cord for the crock pot wasn't long enough to reach my wall outlets. Had to get a power strip to help out.
While we're on the subject, I like to have multiple 20A circuits on each workshop wall, and I leapfrog them down the wall at 4' intervals so I've got flexibility on which circuit my high-current tool is using. I use white outlets for one circuit and gray outlets for the other circuit so I can tell the difference at a glance.
The dual 20A circuits with different colored outlets is a truly great idea!
Absolutely best person to learn electrical info from. I wired my shed and followed his video. Awesome job.
i wired and plumbed my house. and researched these measurements in 2014 !! i wish this video was here in 2014! i am also glad i was on point though !. A few things can be offered, in my situation, being mostly in a wheelchair, for ADA thinking, if allowed before hand, a few outlets, in living room, and bedroom, sometime bathroom, could be placed, at wheel chair seat height. this allow the handicap individual to have non stretch or chair tipping safety when using a few common use outlets. as usual, your videos are awesome and extremely well informed ! cheers!
Pro tip for those who are planning to install outlets in a house. If you plan on installing at 18" to the top cut a piece of 2x4 at 14". When installing just stand the piece of 2x4 against the stud and set your box on top of it then secure the box to the stud. Makes it easier than having to measure each time and guarantees uniformity.
I’d rethink that height recommendation. All the kitchens I’ve been in have the counter outlets closer to the countertop not halfway between the counter and the bottom of the cabinets (which are as stated, usually 18-19” from countertop). My 20 yr old house has their bottom about 5” above the countertop which is about 1 inch above the usual 4” backsplash. If placed half way up, you get a lot more cord dangling down and it’s a little more visually noticeable. Just my observation and 2 cents.
A story stick?
Or a laser
Measure your hammer, it may be the perfect length, or put a mark on it. Then you always have it with you.
Straight forward information. Much appreciated.
I thought I went overboard when adding outlets to my house, but in the end there were still not enough. I like the outlet next to the window. I even put outlets under the roof eaves at each corner of the house for Christmas lights and security cameras. I also put an outlet in the ceiling for our projector.
Ben - Pathway Lights!!! This is another easy touch that really is extremely helpful for seniors, ADA and for any person trying to find their way to a bathroom, kitchen or baby/kids room at night without turning on the full bright room lights. I have added to stairs and long hallways a single-gang standard 22-cuin old work box mounted horizontally below a light switch or as a 2-gang for an outlet and a pathway light. Using the Hot dropped from a light switch down to 12-in horizontal box allows for a great LED pathway light such as the Legrand™ Radiant ® Step Light. These LED lights can be set to 5 levels of brightness and have a LUX sensor for day/night auto on/off control. They use milliamps of power and don't add any significant load to your existing light switch Hot. Just a thought... but using outlets like your stairs have can accommodate the plug-in style, or swap and outlet out for a nice built-in step light look.
Thanks for the great videos... you rock and your channel is helping thousands of people with great quality information. Thanks!!
Well explained. I've learned much from your videos.
Great tip! Thank you very much 😊
We had 12 x 24 porch enclosed to be a 4 season room. Had the outlet boxes mounted @ 20" to the top. Reason? We are retirees in our seventies and it's much easier to plug in and out. On the house wall had an outlet at 36" and 20" for a desk. On the same wall and outlet at XXX for the tv wall mount and one below @ 20" again. Also on the house wall two outlets two inches below the ceiling mostly for Christmas decorations. Enjoyed this video, thanks.
When I helped my Uncle (master electrician) he gave me a hammer and said all plugs are this hight to the bottom of the box. Done it that way every since. Great video I'm building my house and gave me some awesome ideas. Thanks 👍
Excellent ideas to pick from!
love the tip about the Christmas decorations! no such thing as too many boxes (within the limitations of the circuit)
The biggest problem with 48 inch switches is that it is right on the drywall seam and the drywall mud makes a mess in the box and the wall surface is never perfectly flat.
I avoid that problem by always mounting switch box tops at 45” above the subfloor.
Those are good thoughts. One thing is certain, somewhere in any house, you'll need another box later. So, don't forget that you need to design your circuits with latitude to allow another receptacle to be added later. It is so irritating to discover that the closest plug circuit is already full.
Good tips! Thanks for posting buddy
Thank you for making this video! 😎👍
It's good to know that Thank you for teaching
For over 30 years I keep everything to bottom of boxes.
Switches I keep normal 46” to bottom.
The room plugs are 16” to bottom.
Counter top plugs I keep it 42” to bottom
36 inch counter 4 inch back splash so your 2 more inch above the back splash so if there flooring or something your still covered.
Just cut scrap 2 by 4 16” plugs
a second 2 by 4 is 46” switches
A 3rd 2 by 4 is 42” counter top.
And you have you height around the job.
Nice you explain it perfectly.
Thank you sir for sharing your knowledge
The lid or ceiling drywall installs first. So add 1/2 inch to the 48 inch from top plate to switch box.
Good point. No matter what height of 48" or so it is, it GUARANTEES at final that your going to come back to a box full of dried mud.
Super very nice video thanks.
Some residential construction projects require outlets to be higher off the floor for ADA access (reach by someone in a wheelchair).
Also, consider a higher outlet for a wall mounted flat screen t.v. (hidden behind the t.v.)
Also, consider an outlet behind the toilet. Why? For an electric bidet toilet seat of course!
i mark the bottom of the box the length of my framing hammer off the bottom plate... super quick and comes out nice
also one up high for under cabinet, and above Cabinet lighting.
I put a GFCI outlet near the toilet for a possible bidet or heated seat in the future during my remodel. Neither interests me but maybe the next owners of this place will want that crap when they are crapping. 🙂
Hey whats up, 10 minutes in the video, the outlet plug is mounted upside down, meaning neutral should be to the bottom, keeping doing a great job, love ur videos
thanks man ....grate info!
I'm going between a wheel chair and crutches. When I finnished my basement I set all my plug ins to 36". Best thing I did. No stooping over or moving furnature. to get at the plug ins. I got a couple 5 1/2 feet high for my tvs. In my shop I have a few hanging from the cieling becuse my wheel chair doesn't to drive over cords. I guess I'm a reble. Let's go Brandon. Thanks for sharing you great videos.
66n. Retired .but now n then couple of jobs. U are very good n helpful but o knew all that. Love to watch your videos
What state are you from? I'm looking for a master electrician who might want to work part time with me at some point. :)
Keep doing what you doing sir just know that it's very appropriated
Good information, good video 👍
I like a switched outlet high under the over hang for Christmas lights.
I just am finishing a family home renovation and have stubbed switched lines for my future outdoor pathway lighting at the front of the house. Also a like your comment I've added switched AFCI/GFCI all-weather outlet boxes in my front and back house eaves in a location for the holiday and summer patio string lighting. These little touches of adding in an extra switch or two where you "might need one" is a super "future proof" way to make sure you don't have to tear into a wall again. Stubbing a switched wire into a solo junction box in the attic is a perfect way to phase out your project!
I got in a big argument with my coworker cuz we’re both stubborn. I said 48” to center he said 48” to the top. I’m mad you proved me wrong but I like only cutting Sheetrock once so you convinced me.
Haha oh no! It's also true that there really isn't a "perfect" answer though so you might still be right!
@Brian Hogan
As far as the Americans With Disabilities Act is concerned you are correct.
If you like the drywall folks (you know the people who bury our boxes and fill them full of drywall mud) & want to be compliant as well your friend and Benjamin are correct.
@@thetruth5210 I saw a drywall guy in a hospital addition putting a dollop of mud in every box. Any Idea, or was he just being an ass?
Resting the taped edge of the sheetrock on the box makes more work for the guy who is taping the joints. Now he has to fill the taper over the box. I mount boxes according to the National Electrical Code, 48" OC.
lichub reference? Does it actually say 48” to center in the National Electrical Code?
Thanks for your help, it's helpful
No problem!
For receptacle boxes I carry a hammer that is 16" long, end to end. I simply hold it in front of the stud with my right hand with the head on the floor, and with my left hand set a box on top the handle and adjust it for depth. Then use the hammer to fasten the box. Quick and accurate.
Ben es Super Kool n Wise n methodical!
With precut studs (92 5/8") and three plates (4 1/2") the height of ceiling framing is 97 1/8" above floor. With 5/8" drywall on ceiling and a 48" wide drywall hung on the wall below it, the bottom edge of that sheet is 48 1/2" above the floor. If you mounted your box with the top at 48" above the floor, you will have a cutout with a 1/2" wide sliver of drywall on top. Because the box is completely covered while hanging the bottom sheet, it also makes it easier for the drywallers to miss cutting it out - before they have blown it out. A much better way is to hang your switch boxes to 48" to the center of the box. After the top sheet is hung, half the box is still exposed, making it easier to router out, and the same is true after the bottom sheet if hung. Also, it places your box in the center of of the horizontal bevel so that the top and bottom of the box are out of the bevel and flush. Your method leaves the top of the box sticking out at the seam - at the thinnest part of the bevel.
I think the heights you like make them a lot easier to wire.
The house I am in now was built in 1908 and had knob and tube when built. I rewired the whole house without gutting the entire thing. The outlets and switch height varies from room to room so I matched what they were. The 2nd floor switches are around 40" and I am 6'2" making an odd angle to wire.
It's not what he likes, there's a whole codebook telling what to do.
Thanks million I did in my house is work perfect thanks buddy
Super very nice videoooo,thanks so much
You're welcome! Glad that you found it to be useful!
Since I generally do my own renovation work, I try to match what already existed (but better).
The only time I didn’t was for my Master Bath renovation. I had a mosaic & marble feature band and didn’t want to interrupt it with switches.
I have outlets in my closet, love them.
I installed our wall outlets at 18" to center which is a little higher than normal, but as we get older it is nice to not have to bend over as far to plug things in (ie vacuum). While not electrical, I also install central vacuum ports at 30" with an outlet next to them so they are convenient to use. Why some installers put them in the baseboard requiring you to get down on your knees to use them, I'll never know.
They got this crazy new tool called a laser. It's got 1000's of uses and this is one of them.
Bed Side Lighting:
Having his/hers wall sconce controlled by a conveniently placed wall switch is great.
Tell one of you leave fall asleep leaving the light on, and your partner has to get out of bed to switch off the light. I advocate two sets of three way switches so you can turn off your partner’s light without getting out of bed. Minimalists may favor a wireless approach.
I'm always up for adding another switch or two! ;)
Something I found to be covenant is if the wiring supports or you are doing new wiring, at the switch at the where you enter the room, install an outlet. It is very handy when you are vacuuming to be able to plug it in without having to move furniture or lean down.
Thanks!
Just finished a home office in the basement. It’s home to my desktop computer and printer plus various other desktop electronic equipment (adding machine). I set four outlets at 16 inches and four at 40 inches. Two of the higher outlets are doubles and serve my computer equipment. I’ll never have to crawl under the desk again to plug in equipment. The light switches are at 48.
very useful video.. some good places to put extra elec points.. but the biggest problem is 12 boxes/circuit or "cap" on total amps (80% @ 15 or 20amps) + some mandatory dedicated circuits for fixed appliances.. it eats up all breakers in the main service panel ..
it may restrict some freedom..
Framing hammer is good to use as measurment.light swiches box I do 50" bottom. Panels drywall etc is 4"×8" and would cover the swich. For wheelchair people users I do 45" top. For older people recepticles are better at 18" top install
I like to see what you have there. 12/2 for ALL points. I've been trying to plant that seed to NEC to make it code, eliminating 14 gauge in standard wiring. I still prefer metal boxes. These plastic and nylon boxes cheapens the look, even though they're behind walls. But then again, I wish my receptacles and plates were of porcelain and ceramics. Better insulation than plastic and no static shocks. I am also debating to have conduit pipes run through my home. It would make rewiring easier, especially if one has spray foam. There is still the trouble of adding something where there wasn't something to begin with though.
I've always thought electrical outlets should be about the same heights as switches, as they are in unfinished basements and garages. As for sofa's and end tables with lamps, I custom made two extension cords with one plug that connect behind the sofa and protrude from either end of sofa. With this day of USB chargers for EVERYTHING, I am considering what you said about those outlets where the end tables are, but those that have a USB and USBC connection for these obnoxious devices that refuse to some with a wall transformer. (Yet they're still being paid for in the devices that cost thousands anyway. But that's a different rant for a different time.)
Ah, you have that idea too, as I pause at thought, comment, then proceed. I like that thinking.
I always thought of having a receptacle inside the window on both sides. I got the idea from Mother, by her putting electric candle sticks in the windows at Christmas / Hanukkah and an electric menorah in the main window. (We celebrated both, being Jewish and Catholic. Not sure how I became atheist when I mastered reasoning skills.)
I also thought about closets, and even in cabinet drawers. Arc Fault Protection is a MUST. Everything has a rechargeable battery. When I was a kid, I had a 13 inches television set and a small bedchamber. So I kept the big box in the closet and opened the door when I wanted to watch the set. We didn't have these fancy flat screens back then and only 9 channels and only 4 of those could be viewed with reasonable clarity. All kinds of static and snow. So there was also a cable box, eventually and I ran an extension cord in there for the set, the box, and I had a Nintendo too. Hours of playing the game, with it paused and the cleaning lady comes in, unplugs everything, for her vacuum cleaner, and I lost my game. I never did find that princess. (Super Mario Brothers)
Your washer outlet surprised me as there is no GFCI, and gave thought to maybe a different GFCI upstream. But giving that thought, wash machines should be on dedicated line. Perhaps there is a GFCI AFP (Arc Fault Protections) at the panel. Just my OCD kicking in here.
I've also given thought to outlets at the stairs, with those nightlights and a three way switch at the top and bottom of the stairs. (I spend a lot of time in my basement. I like it down here. I'm weird like that.) I'd sleep down here if it didn't leak. TOLD my Mother I was moving into the basement when I was 13 years old, and that's where I've been since. Both finished and unfinished. Like unfinished the best. Here it's half and half and horrified it leaks when it rains, so I have the Master bedchamber upstairs.
I keep all boxes here in this house, at the height the other ones are. If I am ever lucky enough to win the Power Ball I will have a house built and customized specs with outlets at the standard and at the switch height. I don't see me having kids but I also try to keep the little people in mind, and thinking about people in wheelchairs, which will be another spec for my dream home. 100 % wheelchair accessible and with elevator. I was in a wheelchair once and it was not easy. If I ever land in one again, they'll have to send me to shady pines. It would never fit in this small house.
In projects of the basement at this house, I did put some outlets where the fires stops on walls that are open on the unfinished side. Yes, I used all metal boxes, 12/2 with ground, but no conduit pipe. I am not that skilled and I don't have money, so that will be done in my dream home as well.
Great video, and thank you for posting, keeping me company in this otherwise lonely existence as I wait to die. Hope you and yours are well and happy. Good thoughts for you people.
😂😂😂
Ben , what do you think about ( in a senior's house ) about placing all of the outlets throughout the house at 48" ? For my comfort and safety of course . I'm currently remodeling a turn of the century farmhouse built about 1900 to modern building standards . And no, we're not strictly regulated by any city codes in a town of less than 400 people . Only the state of Kansas and of course Cherokee county codes which I'm told just follow NEC and UBC . Peace out man , and I enjoy your videos .
Ben, like your videos. For my two cents, I would place my outlets a little higher, say 16” to the bottom. This is better for us older folks, and we’re all getting older. For the switches, I suggest placing the top of the box at 46”. Yes, this means that you would have to cut out around the box on all four sides, but two inch space between the drywall sheets would support each piece of drywall, especially the piece with the two inch bridge. Finally, the high outlets, may be practical, but from an aesthetic view point would be unattractive.
I like the 46 to the top as well. It's good for everybody, including children and people in wheelchairs. 16 to the bottom of a receptacle is a bit high for me, I prefer more like 13-14.
I have used the 46” to the top of my switches for 30+ years. If the drywall goes up horizontal it keeps the boxes out of the tape joint. No boxes full of joint compound!
In a finished basement update I added outlets every six feet around the room, but so many boxes are not used and others could use more places to plug in. I wish I put 4 gang outlet boxes, if not everywhere, at least where lamp tables and electric softas landed; so I could also plug in phones and laptop computer cords. I changed a few afterwards to include USB, but for the cost of a 4 gang box and an extra outlet I wished I'd put more in when the walls were open.
Started out installing receptacles 16" to top of boxes back in late 60's then 16" to center of box, then 18". Wired up a large house that had 135 receptacle not counting ones in 4 car garage. Mounted top of all receptacle boxes exactly 20" off floor. Carpenter could not thank me enough. Stated that on too many houses heights will vary over an inch causing him time to measure every box.Alwsys keep the bottom of switch boxes at least 50" off floor in case they installed sheet rock sideways creating a joint 48" off floor. Think now you are required to mount switches low enough so a person in a wheel chair can easily work a switch. Forget what ADA recommendd.
Hey been good job as always! But I have to ask, off the topic, did you install that reflective insulation board on your basement walls? I am going to be doing that soon and it look like you did a nice job on that any information you can send me on insulating your walls like that I would appreciate it. Trying to figure out if I should put insulation board right up against the block foundation? Then put up the wall studs and insulate those two before I shoot rock? I’ll take any advice you got thank you
41and a half to bottom of box for gfci and switches in bathroom to clear vanity counter with cover plates on
The kitchen outlets and switches above the counters should be 48” to top as you have noted is because that centre’s the boxes pretty close between the counter top and the bottom edge of the upper cabinets
You have a good channel. You may want to refresh yourself with ADA receptacles. You mentioned 12” in the beginning, then mentioned 16”. ADA requires the minimum of 15” off the finished floor to the bottom of the box.
it's also good to have an outlet in a closet to keep the wiring for your grow op nice and tidy.
Lol GFCI cause there's water being used
@@mrtellis2955 :thumbsup: current code on bedroom closet would be combo afci/gfci :)
Lol why do electricians smoke so much weed
3 phase in the garage for a meth lab...
I used “ hammer height “ for receptacles and 48 for switches.
i usually do 12'' to the bottom for receptacles, 48'' to the bottom for switches, and 44'' to the bottom of counter receptacles.
According to the American Disabilities Act and the National Electrical Code, receptacles shall be not less than 16" OC from the finished floor.
These heights have changed now ! New codes !
Hi Benjamin, which state do you live in? whenever I have doubts I turn to your videos, you are my national code manual.
Excellent job Ben, do you do any videos on heating?
Excellent video. I worked a while for my cousin who was an electrician. He would jump my sh*t for not turning all of the plate screws vertically. 5:12
Vertically or horizontally, they should all be the same throughout the house. I prefer horizontal, I think it looks better.
Great, we’ll presented, video. You got to the point without a bunch of silly cutaways and annoying music!
Where I live, it is rare that I ever come across a switch height that is 48” to the top of the box, unless the homeowner is disabled. That has always been considered “handicapped height”, to which you have alluded. Most electricians here mount their switches about 6” higher than this.
In Europe we have DIN 18015, so receptacles should be installed on 15cm (~6 inches) from the floor and light switches on 90cm (~35 inches) from the floor. Receptacles also might be installed on altitude 35 inches, but our codes require some shield between coaxial, UTP and electric cables if their outlets are installed on the same altitude.
i live in a newly-built Reihenhaus in Germany, and our outlets and switches are not at that height. and these seem to me to be the same height as the last 3 places i've lived in Germany.
In Germany:
Receptacles 30cm from the floor and wall. Light switches 110cm from the floor and 15cm from the door border. (All center).
To answer: I place my standard wall outlet boxes at 16” to the top (or to match existing) and switch boxes at 42” to the center! I know, I know, but we go with what we first learned. I’ve never been called on it, and customers have never complained they are too low.
We always do 46" to the top for switches. Mainly because that's the best height for countertop outlets and you don't want switches and outlets to be at different heights. Wall outlets will depend on ceiling height as well as how tall your base molding height. 9-foot ceilings I would go 18 inches. It sounds weird but that higher height looks a litter better with that higher ceiling.
Same for my switches.
13" and 50" from the bottom of the box specifically where the screw for the outlet/switch screw in so everything is even. Counter plugs 42" . Im in Canada so maybe things are different. I should find out what the drywallers prefer or how they install. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for sharing!
butters742, You don’t use metric there?
@@981porsche3 We use both. With the US not transitioning half way through the process metric and Canada making the full change. Forced Schools to teach both since most jobs relating in shipment to the US(Specifically in Machining and Tool/Die industries) are required to flip flop between the two. Then it just becomes a matter of preference and who your working for. The older the people, Then imperial. Younger then metric.
Its a headache. There are things i love about imperial and things i love about metric. But no matter what, both have to be used and be proficient in both.
@@butters742 That’s interesting. If you listen to the proponents of metric in the US, you’d think the whole rest of the world is using only metric. Personally, I do see the benefits and drawbacks of both.
@@981porsche3 There is Definitely a pro with imperial because I can measure on my finger how much a inch is on my index fingers segment, about 3 inches for the whole index, 6 inches from thumb to pinky if stretched out.
Same with metric to some extent but there is something with imperial.
Metric on paper and math is a breeze though while imperial becomes a bit convoluted. My only issue with Metric in Canada is that it isn't just metric lol. I wouldn't care if it was all imperial, or just all metric. Its just both and a shuffle.
52 inchs -switchboxs. receptacles - 18 inchs. dryer ,washer , kitchen recepetacles 42 inchs ..thats what i do in canada .. canadian code i follow
As we get older we like the plugs at 14 in. to the bottom. Another note I noticed you put the plate screws at 3 & 9 oclock. In Canada we do 12 & 6 oclock.
I do them in no specific order
2:20 you speak to location of receptacle height locations. You were close to being correct on the information about the light switch location ADA yet you might wanna look at the ADA for outlet locations. Nothing is considered accessible if it’s below 15 inches. And as it relates to the light switch location. It’s about the operable portion of any element. So mounting your box at 48 inches to the top absolutely meets the requirement. Think about the light switch if you mount it to the centerline at 48. When it is in the up position, it’s above the 48 mark therefore it would be out of compliance and I’m strictly talking about the toggle switch itself even a Leviton type flat switch, mounted 48 to the centerline the top portion would be out of compliance. So again mounting your light switch box top at 48 would make you in compliance. Even though residential doesn’t typically require things to be accessible, it’s a good practice to think about. I’m mounting all my light switches at 32 inches. That’s also within the requirements can’t be greater than 48 and can’t be less than 15 so anything in between is acceptable. Yet in building my home I am placing my electrical outlets below 12 inches which is out of ADA compliance Yet again residential is not required to comply with ADA for the most part
For low boxes on wall I like cutting a 2x4 for under box as a measure
what is the standard height of the wire when you run through the stud to connect the other outlet?
Is ADA compliance required for new construction? When can switches be installed higher?
Hammer method for me
Hey Ben I shall your vedio on your home wiring and you ran 12 wire to your outlets and used 15 amp recepticles did you use 15 amp breaker .
.I thought you were running all 20 amp outlets and 15 amp for lighting?
Measure down from top plate 48-5/8 inches This allows for the 5/8 inches drywall on ceiling.
It actually depends on location. It's 14" to the bottom of the box for wall outlets, 48" to the bottom of switch boxes, and 42" to the bottom of the box for countertop switches and outlets here in Tennessee.
Not only Tennessee, the National Electrical Code regulates electrical installation practices.
It's like that most places....48 in. for a counter outlet is ridiculous
I cut another receptacle spot in the wall at the top of some stairs but I accidentally cut under the 12” mark, not above. Turns out though, I kind of like plugs lower on the wall. Puts cords lower to the floor and it just looks better to me.
You left out the garage outlets totally...the door opener outlet needs to be on the ceiling, and it's switch about 60" from the floor. Need junction boxes for sensors too. Good and informative video.
ADA is 48” to the part of the switch you operate.
You are doing a nice job in explaining things here on your channel. I usually like most of your ideas and some just don't fit my style. The one thing that you mention here that I thought was worth commenting on was the idea of putting plugs up above endtables and couches. That is a really bad idea. If furniture moves you have a really bad looking installation. I would never let an employee do that and I would always talk a customer out of doing it. It looks bad and it is shortsighted.
Thanks for the feedback! Honestly I think you're right. I get hung up on the "practicality" side of things a bit too much at times and that is probably why I think/thought it is/was a good idea. Thanks again for sharing your thoughts!
As a electrician here in maryland for 12 years switches is 48 inches to buttom not top nail on boxes 16 inches high from the buttom not top also some 2x4's need too be cut because of trim in a home ps : also outlets need too be within 12 foot of each other. BTW nice decora's:) also you need at least 2 GFI's in your kitchen with 12-2 for 20 amp circuit not 14-2 which is rated for 15 amps
Great video. Question? How far apart do you set outlets?
In all the rentals across America I have seen heights ALL OVER the place. Many different heights in just one home!! It is funny that this code is never really adhered to. Even as an electrician, the inspectors never cared. Once I got my inspectors certificate they too did not care.
are you adding for the thickness of any flooring such as particle board if it hasn't been put down yet?
Gracias ¡¡
Benjamin, can you provide a quick measurement of your recessed light spacing?
Basement wall plugs. Suggest they are at least 5 foot from base. In the event of flooding from busted water lines, or worse, you don't want the electric lines underwater.
Well on commercial jobs involving block or brick we usually go 16 to the bottom for receptacles so we can set the box on the 2nd course of 8" block. Makes it easier for brick layer and is ADA compliant. For switches we go 4' to the bottom because thats the bond beam for the mason and is filled with horizontal rebar and grout. So we just set the box on the bond beam. I also put the switch box at 4' to the bottom on interior walls that are sheet rocked so they are sitting on top of the 4'wide sheet as the 4x8 sheet is nailed horizontally rather than vertically. Easier for rocker to cut opening in rock for this box.
Super interesting! Totally makes sense given the construction method. I might save your comment and share it in a video!
Your pretty much spot on for ada requirements. The problem arises when you need to install a box for a thermostat, whether low voltage or line voltage to get the sensing element in a good zone, so we always installed the thermostat at 5' to top or bottom or middle. The problem is it is too high to be ada compliant. I have had to lower t stat boxes to no higher than 4' to the top. Because warm air rises , 4 ' is just too low for accurate temperature sensing and control. But that's ada for you. The only thing you can do is get a t stat with a remote sensing element which yo woul install at 5' but the control would be below it at 4 ft.
For ada a receptacle has to be 16 inches to bottom. 12" to bottom puts you 16" to top. So for all commercial installation I put recpts at 16 to bottom. Switches are 48 to top. But in block the course of block is 48" to top. This is the bond beam and is "h" block with rebar. So it's difficult to cut down into the block and avoid the steel and have room to run your conduit up. So most inspectors will allow you to set your switch box at 4' to the bottom, now it's on top of the bond beam without rebar and grout to contend with. So your 4" higher. But if you can access the switch from the side you are ok up to 54" to middle of box. If you can only access switch from straight on you can't be higher than 48" to middle of box. But they'll probably cut you some slack in brick or block construction.
Hi! Thank you for your video! I am going through a full remodel and saw that all my light switches are set to 44.5" to the top. Really strange... and even worse, my bathroom is lower at 43.5" to the top. I'll be asking my electrician why so low. Any thoughts why you think he veered away from the standard? Thank you!
I sport the same first name. And just like you, I too always made a mistake and said height(h)! It is a slip of the tongue, means the other direction is widt(h). But my best buddy would never let it rest. So I share that with you...and thanks for the correct height to place the box...lol!
I found it more useful to measure to the center of all foxes and I use a laser level on a tripod to assure that all boxes are equal. The reason you want to measure to the Centre of the Box because some 2-gang and three gang boxes are larger than a standard single gang plastic Carlon box if you measure to the top instead of the center when they finish the tile work or Granite you will notice a half inch or quarter inch difference in the height of the box there for measuring to the center will assure you of equal spacing on all boxes especially if you use a
4 11/16 box. Also in all medical offices and eldercare you must have ADA requirements that specify on the prince what the height of the Box minimum is usually 24 in for wheelchair accessibility
Hi----- and what abovt a 250 v - 50 amp receptacle distance to floor ?..
above stove microwave outlet height. Also is there a standard for a range exhaust hood outlet? Hardwire / receptacle ? Any suggestions ?