Cracking video! I have been building white metal kits for nearly forty-years and have always been unsure about solder, which would clearly speed up the assembly process no-end compared to eopxy resin adhesive. I now have a clear understanding of what is needed and the principals and technique behind this mysterious art. Thank you so much more than I can type.
Very useful demo, second time I've seen it. You've shown how to do exactly several things I've wanted to do properly. Thanks, very well presented as well.
Thanks Andy, this was excellent. I always thought you had to invest in an expensive temperature controlled soldering station ( that somehow I could never justify spending on). I bought a peppercorn A2 kit about 20 years ago and have never touched it. I probably got too excited and it's obviously beyond my skill level. But having seen this video I'll certainly invest in an amtec 18w iron, the fluxes etc. and some simpler kits. With this tutorial as a reference - who knows!
I have an adjustable temp soldering iron. What temp should I set it to equal your 18 watt iron? I can buy the Antec fixed temp iron but I was hoping to not buy a new iron. This is a great video with a lot of very useful information. I will be coming back to this often for more details as I try more kits that have white metal construction. Thank you for taking the time you put into this. The part about brass and white metal is extremely informative.
It largely depends on how big the parts are. It is best to practice on something that is expendable first, but I usually set my iron, for larger parts, to 300-325°C. Smaller to 260°C.
Hi Andy, thanks for your very informative video. The smallest soldering iron I could find is a 30W one and I am battling to 'load' the solder onto the soldering nib. Is my problem that the nib is too hot? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Best Regards Jez
The soldering bit needs to be kept clean, and tinned with high grade solder. If your iron plugs directly into the mains supply, you will have little control over the temperature, but it should work ok with normal electrical solder. If you would like some further tips, there is a soldering guide available at www.jimmcgeown.com/Print%20Off%20FAQ%20Booklet%20pdf.pdf that should help you even though it is for etched kit construction.
@@TheGaugeOGuild thanks Andy for your speedy reply. I really appreciate your help. I am using Woods Alloy as solder and am soldering pewter (96% tin, 4% antimony) using phosphoric acid flux. Will follow the link. Thanks Jez
The brass requires 'normal' solder, which comes as a wire. The solder needed for soldering white metal has a much lower melting point, and this usually comes in a block.
Hi enjoyed your video, very informative, Have a question, I am making a 00 gauge tanker trailer, but cannot get the low melt solder to take on the tank part of the kit It works on the other parts and the ends of the tank, but no matter what I tried the tank sides will not take the solder. Have you any advice, would be appreciated Regards Terry Mason.
Terry, if the tank is not white metal but brass or another similar material, it will need tinning where the tank and the ends meet. I use 145 deg solder for general kit soldering and 70 deg solder for white metal. Tin the tank with 145 first, and then use the 70 deg to join the ends to the tank. I think in the video 100deg solder is used which doesn't need pre tinning. Peter
I very much liked your video! I was reminded of how to put together those white metal kits using low melt solder from when I was a kid. I have all the tools I need except the two main items, Solder and flux! After searching the internet four hours, I have determined they do not sell them in the United States. If I order from the UK the shipping is too high and the flux is hazmat and can't ship. Any ideas? Again thanks for the great refresher!
Cracking video! I have been building white metal kits for nearly forty-years and have always been unsure about solder, which would clearly speed up the assembly process no-end compared to eopxy resin adhesive. I now have a clear understanding of what is needed and the principals and technique behind this mysterious art. Thank you so much more than I can type.
Very useful demo, second time I've seen it. You've shown how to do exactly several things I've wanted to do properly. Thanks, very well presented as well.
Thank you Andy!
Thanks Andy, this was excellent. I always thought you had to invest in an expensive temperature controlled soldering station ( that somehow I could never justify spending on). I bought a peppercorn A2 kit about 20 years ago and have never touched it. I probably got too excited and it's obviously beyond my skill level. But having seen this video I'll certainly invest in an amtec 18w iron, the fluxes etc. and some simpler kits. With this tutorial as a reference - who knows!
What an excellent tutorial! Full of useful advice and handy tips.
'This year I shall be mainly soldering'
Thanks! I was looking for this info, and got a great demo an info 😁
I have an adjustable temp soldering iron. What temp should I set it to equal your 18 watt iron? I can buy the Antec fixed temp iron but I was hoping to not buy a new iron. This is a great video with a lot of very useful information. I will be coming back to this often for more details as I try more kits that have white metal construction. Thank you for taking the time you put into this. The part about brass and white metal is extremely informative.
It largely depends on how big the parts are. It is best to practice on something that is expendable first, but I usually set my iron, for larger parts, to 300-325°C. Smaller to 260°C.
Thank you sir,
🙏
What type of Tip Tinner have you used? Is it lead free or a leaded type?
Hi Andy, thanks for your very informative video. The smallest soldering iron I could find is a 30W one and I am battling to 'load' the solder onto the soldering nib. Is my problem that the nib is too hot? Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Best Regards Jez
The soldering bit needs to be kept clean, and tinned with high grade solder. If your iron plugs directly into the mains supply, you will have little control over the temperature, but it should work ok with normal electrical solder. If you would like some further tips, there is a soldering guide available at www.jimmcgeown.com/Print%20Off%20FAQ%20Booklet%20pdf.pdf that should help you even though it is for etched kit construction.
@@TheGaugeOGuild thanks Andy for your speedy reply. I really appreciate your help. I am using Woods Alloy as solder and am soldering pewter (96% tin, 4% antimony) using phosphoric acid flux. Will follow the link. Thanks Jez
Why did you choose to use the wire solder when working with the brass at first?
The brass requires 'normal' solder, which comes as a wire. The solder needed for soldering white metal has a much lower melting point, and this usually comes in a block.
Where do you get your white metal solder that comes in a Block?
@@gord307 Also Where do you get the flux. I would like to copy you to the exactly duplicate because I am having trouble.
Hi enjoyed your video, very informative, Have a question, I am making a 00 gauge tanker trailer, but cannot get the low melt solder to take on the tank part of the kit
It works on the other parts and the ends of the tank, but no matter what I tried the tank sides will not take the solder. Have you any advice, would be appreciated
Regards Terry Mason.
Terry, if the tank is not white metal but brass or another similar material, it will need tinning where the tank and the ends meet. I use 145 deg solder for general kit soldering and 70 deg solder for white metal. Tin the tank with 145 first, and then use the 70 deg to join the ends to the tank. I think in the video 100deg solder is used which doesn't need pre tinning. Peter
@@TheGaugeOGuild Thank you for that, the tank is made of alloy no wonder solder would not take. How to tin that I'm not sure. Terry
@@terrymason3009 what are you using to solder anything that isn't whitemetal (brass, N/S, etc)?
I very much liked your video! I was reminded of how to put together those white metal kits using low melt solder from when I was a kid. I have all the tools I need except the two main items, Solder and flux! After searching the internet four hours, I have determined they do not sell them in the United States. If I order from the UK the shipping is too high and the flux is hazmat and can't ship. Any ideas? Again thanks for the great refresher!