Epic! I've been throwing around the idea of making one of these for my main workbench. Totally love the vice on the side. I was thinking of using Japanese saw horses somehow for support but the x brace seems more practical.
Another good thing about hand tools - they're 'neighbor-friendly', especially in apartment buildings. Also, a couple of angled notches in the X-leg could hold the beam in position.
Yes my neighbors are quite understanding of what I'm doing. The notches are on the to-do list, like I said when talking about them I just ran out of time and money, two things we never can get enough of these days.
A traditional planing beam didn’t need notches. The sharp corners and weight of the long beam were enough to keep it in place. One thing you might want to do is add a cross brace to the legs though so it’s a triangle. Toshio Odate’s book, Japanese Woodworking Tools, has a good example of one in it. BTW - awesome job with such a limited space and materials! I work with similar materials/space as you and really enjoy what/how you do what you do!
@lemongrasspicker you might use dogholes on the side of your "bench" to avoid bigger boards try to pivot and fall on one side. couple of holes and a dog to keep it up, but all in all a cool handy "bench" :)
A tip: look for vertical grain on the ends of the 2x4s. Should result in far less cupping. 2x4 ( or any other dimensional lumber) nomenclature comes from rough sizes. If the moron with the lawsuit went to the mill, he/she could get all they want in splinters as well,;especially with Doug Fir.
PLEASE replace those drywall screws with a couple of hardwood or soft metal dogs. It would really suck to hit those hardened screws with your razor sharp Japanese plane...
Can confirm, I tried using screws as bench dogs. They don't hold up. Fortunately, unlike my bench, you've got lots of meat to work with. Maybe thick oak dowels? If you go with metal, choose something soft like aluminum or bronze. Unlike steel, they'll be kinder to your blade in case of catastrophe.
@@DangitBobby1990 Scott Wynn's book "Traditional Wooden Handplanes" describes a similar planing beam, he is using a sliding dovetail cut across the beam to hold planing stop. And he really advises against any metal dogs / stops, for the same reason as mentioned above
It held up just fine actually. Did lots of projects on it. Then when we had a massive ice storm and we were stuck with no power I chopped it up to burn it to stay warm.
So i just recently got a japanese hand plane, still havent set it up but i have gone on trying to understand them a bit better, but i need to ask, how do you determine which one is used for rough work? Do you just buy an extra one and widen the mouth? Or can you tune any of them to perform both scrub plane/jack plane like functions and also a smoother? Just having some issues understanding it all and if i need to purchase another one haha.
For rough work it's exactly the same as with western tools. Wider mouth plane means rougher cuts and a finer mouth means finer cuts. There's alot of value in having a rough cutting tool and a finer cutting tool. You really can't make 1 do both equally well.
Why not make yourself a pair of winding sticks to that you can identify the twist in any stock you may have, and get a jointer or at least a jack plane so that you can level up warps and twists accurately? It will make life so much easier for you. A couple of bench dogs will help hold your workpiece too.
I appreciate the comment. I don't really use western style planes so what you would call a jack plane really isn't something I have a use for. If you watch some of the later projects I do use a Naga dai quite a bit. As far as winding sticks for a rough use project like this planing beam getting the wood perfect really doesn't matter. If it's a cabinet or a chest then I go to the extent and make sure it's as flat and straight as possible.
@@Lemongrasspicker I was always wondering what is the Japanese way to make a long board flat longitudinally. With Western planes this is achieved by a (very) long jointer plane. The longest Japanese plane is significantly shorter than this, so I wonder if there's some special technique involved as well.
Absolutely, there's no real standard to size, you just want it big enough to be able to hold itself under it's own weight. The size is dependent upon the work that you'll be doing on it.
Screw is not a good choice ,they often use a pair of " 马钉"(U nail) dogs on these kind of bench that for sawing and planing, I saw my father and grand father worked like this 32 years ago , I'm a Chinese.
That's cool that they worked like that. I built this beam over a year ago, when I built it I had no nails, on a later video you can see where I remove the screws and add a wooden planing stop. Thanks for watching!
FYI I never coat my handles with any oil, dang don /t want the handle to slide away from me when I/m whacking something .Just leave it at 80 grit and we get a firm grip, especially on larger mallets
Gus Hernan yes sir that's all I have. Hence the reason I started the patreon account. The patreon support goes to buying things like clamps, tools and wood for the channel.
"Cut many times, measure only once..." Hilarious. Great video!
Scott Ross thanks sir
I think a planing beam is a smart idea and most woodworkers could use one! Thank you.
A simple removable peg in the side of the beam to support the long wood in the vice would help so you don't have to clamp it so tight. Great vid.
Woodoak Wilderness that's part of the plan. I have an idea for a system that'll be in a future video
Randomly discovered your channel tonight. Very pleased with this video, on to the next one :D
Shayne Barnes thanks for watching!
Excellent job, as always!
Thanks Rob!
I've been watching for channel for some time now, I really like your positive attitude, great work, keep up!
Thanks sir
yeah yeah. he made it simple. good work for me. thank you for that sir
I made two Husky bags of shavings planing like that on a Paul Sellers workbench... fire starter for months!
Atchbo Garage yup! Know the feeling
I was in the same boat making my ruobo.
I just found your channel, great videos! Definitely learned some new stuff.
The Wick thanks sir!
I really enjoyed the video, I love how you work in limited space and because of that you show a different aspect to the craft...subs+1
Bryson Gainey thanks sir!
That's a very nice set up !
Epic! I've been throwing around the idea of making one of these for my main workbench. Totally love the vice on the side. I was thinking of using Japanese saw horses somehow for support but the x brace seems more practical.
Thanks! I had thought of using saw horses too, but that would mean making some really tall sawhorses and that would take up alot of space as well.
just recently found your channel. great stuff!
riskmandel1 thanks sir!
Another good thing about hand tools - they're 'neighbor-friendly', especially in apartment buildings.
Also, a couple of angled notches in the X-leg could hold the beam in position.
Yes my neighbors are quite understanding of what I'm doing. The notches are on the to-do list, like I said when talking about them I just ran out of time and money, two things we never can get enough of these days.
A traditional planing beam didn’t need notches. The sharp corners and weight of the long beam were enough to keep it in place.
One thing you might want to do is add a cross brace to the legs though so it’s a triangle. Toshio Odate’s book, Japanese Woodworking Tools, has a good example of one in it.
BTW - awesome job with such a limited space and materials! I work with similar materials/space as you and really enjoy what/how you do what you do!
Good videos! Keep them coming!
Thanks for watching!
Love the little AVE nods sprinkled in
A heart six years later ❤️
@lemongrasspicker you might use dogholes on the side of your "bench" to avoid bigger boards try to pivot and fall on one side. couple of holes and a dog to keep it up, but all in all a cool handy "bench" :)
The clamps are called "hatagane."
Nice planing bench. Thanks for your videos!
Jesse Taylor Thanks for the info! and thanks for watching
Thanks!
"Wood is like life both have knots a d hard spots" Paul Sellers
Nice tips...nice video...thanks sir....new subs here
Thanks for subscribing Ady!
To keep the beam from twisting in the X-brace, put a cross brace between the two upper arms for the beam to set on. won’t twist then
Yup, in the months since I first made this I've added notches to the beam.
That looks like a Wreck-It Ralph hammer!!
Had heard about Horror Fraud, but Homeless Despot is new to me :)
3:00 Dude, you're as good with sayings as the bartender from Boondock Saints ;) Or AvE: "And that's is what separates boys from the priest." :D
Thanks sir!
A tip: look for vertical grain on the ends of the 2x4s. Should result in far less cupping.
2x4 ( or any other dimensional lumber) nomenclature comes from rough sizes. If the moron with the lawsuit went to the mill, he/she could get all they want in splinters as well,;especially with Doug Fir.
Nice. Could you recommend a good plane for starting out?
Check out Hida Tool or Suzuki Tool websites. They have quite a few options for you depending on your budget
PLEASE replace those drywall screws with a couple of hardwood or soft metal dogs. It would really suck to hit those hardened screws with your razor sharp Japanese plane...
Tioga Fretworks they'll be replaced. Probably going to use up using some sort bar system in the end.
Can confirm, I tried using screws as bench dogs. They don't hold up. Fortunately, unlike my bench, you've got lots of meat to work with. Maybe thick oak dowels? If you go with metal, choose something soft like aluminum or bronze. Unlike steel, they'll be kinder to your blade in case of catastrophe.
@@DangitBobby1990 Scott Wynn's book "Traditional Wooden Handplanes" describes a similar planing beam, he is using a sliding dovetail cut across the beam to hold planing stop. And he really advises against any metal dogs / stops, for the same reason as mentioned above
Great vids mate like the no bullshit attittude
you alse seem to be a fan of AvE wich makes you even greater
Thanks sir! Yes I am indeed an AvE fan. Although I'd say his grasp on english is far superior to my own, and he's much smarter.
"apply a little bit, liberally" 🤔
anyway, love your vids.
It's been 4 years. How is the Japanese long bench working out.
It held up just fine actually. Did lots of projects on it. Then when we had a massive ice storm and we were stuck with no power I chopped it up to burn it to stay warm.
So i just recently got a japanese hand plane, still havent set it up but i have gone on trying to understand them a bit better, but i need to ask, how do you determine which one is used for rough work? Do you just buy an extra one and widen the mouth? Or can you tune any of them to perform both scrub plane/jack plane like functions and also a smoother? Just having some issues understanding it all and if i need to purchase another one haha.
For rough work it's exactly the same as with western tools. Wider mouth plane means rougher cuts and a finer mouth means finer cuts. There's alot of value in having a rough cutting tool and a finer cutting tool. You really can't make 1 do both equally well.
Why not make yourself a pair of winding sticks to that you can identify the twist in any stock you may have, and get a jointer or at least a jack plane so that you can level up warps and twists accurately? It will make life so much easier for you. A couple of bench dogs will help hold your workpiece too.
I appreciate the comment. I don't really use western style planes so what you would call a jack plane really isn't something I have a use for.
If you watch some of the later projects I do use a Naga dai quite a bit. As far as winding sticks for a rough use project like this planing beam getting the wood perfect really doesn't matter. If it's a cabinet or a chest then I go to the extent and make sure it's as flat and straight as possible.
@@Lemongrasspicker I was always wondering what is the Japanese way to make a long board flat longitudinally. With Western planes this is achieved by a (very) long jointer plane. The longest Japanese plane is significantly shorter than this, so I wonder if there's some special technique involved as well.
Would a 4x8 work as well?
Absolutely, there's no real standard to size, you just want it big enough to be able to hold itself under it's own weight. The size is dependent upon the work that you'll be doing on it.
4:59 what are those bricks for Señor?
That's a letter stamp set. The old ones come in little wooden cases like that.
Screw is not a good choice ,they often use a pair of " 马钉"(U nail) dogs on these kind of bench that for sawing and planing, I saw my father and grand father worked like this 32 years ago , I'm a Chinese.
That's cool that they worked like that. I built this beam over a year ago, when I built it I had no nails, on a later video you can see where I remove the screws and add a wooden planing stop. Thanks for watching!
FYI I never coat my handles with any oil, dang don /t want the handle to slide away from me when I/m whacking something .Just leave it at 80 grit and we get a firm grip, especially on larger mallets
I added conditioner because conditioner is better than splinters.
Prior to drying, a 2x4 is 2 inches by 4 inches. By the time the wood is dry, it has shrunk to it’s current size.
There are all clamps do you have??????
Do you need buy some more.....
Gus Hernan yes sir that's all I have. Hence the reason I started the patreon account. The patreon support goes to buying things like clamps, tools and wood for the channel.
Or make your own. Wooden clamps that use wedges for power are quite practical, and cost a small fraction of even cheap, poorly manufactured clamps.
Japanese planer = x East Asian plane=O
that is not crown that is cupping
Crown on one side cupped on the other