Fans rating chart should be split into two categories. One with scoop (includes intake and exhaust) and one without. All the ones with scoop, should have gasket installed for fairness. I'm all for best fan design, but having the scoop changes it from something I can print and replace on my stock fan, to something that needs serious case modification to actually be used.
It should be standard policy to include these TPU gaskets unless the design conflicts with their use. PLA isnt great as a seal…Even with the flat design, the TPU was able to seal better. TPU for all!
Tpu is great for noise too. I switched to it on my laptop cooling thingy and it enabled using a far noisier squirrel cage fan on it without being too loud. I did also make an intake muffler out of it. (It's basically just a duct that holds the 100mm squirrel cage fan and goes straight to gpu cooler intake.)
I think we don't really need to custom print a gasket here. Every A12x25 fan comes with a seal for a radiator. I think he should have enough of these to use
Negative... It should be standard practice to apply fluid dynamics to the best of *YOUR* knowledge. Not, him cover for your lack of attention to detail.
@@DJBillionator it’s not a lack of knowledge when build surfaces and how the design is mounted can have a significant impact… as shown in this video. Two actually flat surfaces mounted well together should provide enough resistance against leaks under these test conditions, yet it didn’t work. FDM printing isn’t perfect. So a consistent application of this gasket would create an even playing field for the designs that have shrouds/exhaust/etc.
I think the seals against the noctua fan body should be standard practice going forward. If users want additional seals or a seal of a specific size/shape, then they should provide their own schematics for them.
@@Pystro it's like you didn't even read what I said. He'd still have the "standard seal" on the fan body. But since people submit fans of all shapes and sizes, there's not gonna be a one size fits all seal. In a situation where a user submits a fan that is either oddly shaped or has multiple stacking parts, then he/she should also provide files for a seal that would fit their design. If not, then only use the standard seal and nothing else.
Negative... The objective of this channel is it is the users responsibility to apply fluid dynamics to the best of their knowledge. This, would include seals... Stop promoting laziness.
@@SkillisForNoobs Noctua includes a full rubber gasket for the boxed versions of the A12x25 which are really useful: they fully cover one side of the fan, not just the corners. Just have to swap the corners for it. At the sides it a bit thin so placement can be finicky but worth it.
Not really the cheater didn't have any visible leak in the smoke test it's the first time a leak is apparent in the test So it more this particular print that is to blame (not flat)
Just wanted to say that you are really enjoyable to watch. Your overall video quality is always very consistent, good audio, and great clarity. You are really good at listening to your subscribers and very thoughtful and fairly thorough in your videos. THANK YOU for all you do. Thank you.
I cant wait for mine to arrive! 3D Printers Workshop is giving away free filament when you purchase the V400 from them. This will be my first 3D Printer. Cant wait to apart of the maker community!!!
I also ordered from 3D Printers Workshop. From what I can tell they are a legit outfit and have a good rating with the BBB. I was a little hesitant because of the false claim of ordering within the next 9 hours and get it in less than a week although below it showed the actual shipping times. Other than that we'll see how it goes. I used paypal in case of any trouble.
Just want to say thanks for all the awesome 3D printing content. I ordered the Q5 over a year ago and had a really hard time getting it to work right, and after a week or two of trying to figure it out I gave up, but kept watching your fan showcase videos. This very week though I have gotten back into it and have gotten some good prints. in that year I managed to learn a lot about blender and 3D modeling so it's all falling into place. :D
The Q5 can be amazing but like all can be finicky and at times disastrous. I’ve gone for a couple months without touching it from issues I couldn’t figure out.
@@jdizzforyou agreed. Above anything it's a great starting point. Mine stopped leveling properly at some point, but you can easily replace the board, extruder, hotend, servos etc over time. Getting that good sturdy base and compact footprint is the true appeal of the at.
@@Charky_Creations and the price I got it at… 159 shipped during a Christmas sale on gearbest 2 years ago 😂 Stock board running marlin with the only upgrade being capricorn tubing.
If you want to throw the air out the side, sure go with a turbo type blade... Wheel to be precise, they aren't made to throw air through them, without the housing, the wheel is useless, extended tip or not.
@@meanman6992 The extended tip technology maximise the air flow IN THE HOUSING. It's useless on a fan that isn't a turbo wheel, wich is useless outside of the housing, ya understand ?
Love your channel. Super chill host. A dude in his man cave lab with his dog. Interacts with the community better than if they were real life friends. Listens to suggestions and shoots new videos fast. Finger licking good quality, lighting, music, smoke teeeeeeests. Thank you so much for the free (to view) contents.
YES! GASKETS! It doesn't seem like it would have a big effect but imagine air flows like water, even a tiny hole matters if you are creating pressure. Great work 👍
Dude…I’ve been watching your videos for a while. You’re so smooth and natural. You could get away with doing some story telling vids. Love what you do.
For my smaller fans at home I have also found that just adding a spacer (like that gasket) greatly helps with reducing turbulence and improving airflow. I added mine specifically to cut down on the noise of the fans on my 3D printer whose fan grills were all very close to the fan itself.
Suggestion: Use the gaskets for all interfaces to the front or back of the A12x25 frame from now on. This would free us up from having to design our own gaskets, and it frees James up from having to print them. (printing TPU is a real pain… you have to dry it out and slow the print speed waaaay down.) Also, test the Cheater with the gaskets, to make it fair.
On the suction side of fans a seal for the vacuum is very important just like intakes on cars, any kind of small leak that disturbs the smooth flow will affect performance pretty heavily for suck a small leak
You should use the seals from now on for future showdowns, it'll make the results more fair cus it'll remove the variable of leaks from the tests. We're trying to determine what fan shape (and sometimes guides) work best, and removing anything else that could cause an issue from the equation will make results more consistent and precise.
This is a very tempting looking printer and I have closer 2,000 hours runtime on my poor SR pushing it to 220 mm/s with the only upgrade being 5015 cooling fans
I have the SR. My only gripe with it is the original hot-end for whatever reason had blockage issues. Both nozzles failed within the first few prints. After rebuilding/upgrading the break, nozzle, and block, everything worked great. Seeing the upgrades on the newer version... Very nice.
I'm so jealous. I just bought a Sherpa direct extruder and mounted it on my SR, and I installed Klipper with a touchscreen running mainsail. They did everything I did, plus they beefed up the arms and increased the build volume. I want it so bad.
@@Oblithian Hey, I have space for two deltas in my life, the kids should be moving out soon. If the salesman talks to his manager, do you think he could get me a free undercoating? I heard it really helps these printers stand up to puddles and rock salt.
Love your channel, inspiring people to just try stuff and then implementing their ideas just to see what happens, you are an enabler of stuff. A legend.
With the vast diversity of fan designs you get and test, why is there never an airflow vs. static pressure vs. obstruction test? You would only need a 3D-printed set of obstruction plates for your wind tunnel (with holes in them) and a differential air pressure sensor.
I converted my Ender 3 to a direct drive with a $35 kit and never looked back. The almost complete lack of stringing easily makes up for the need to slow down the outer-most wall to avoid ringing. Plus I can just crank up the print speed for the inner walls to make up for it, since the direct drive's material-extruded-vs-estop curve is far flatter.
I converted one of my E3s to direct drive with a printed polycarbonate bracket a good quality titan clone and a spare stepper i had. Works fantastic even for tpu.
Them using Klipper is for some reason genius, the number of times companies tried doing their own thing and falling miserably... This printer changed the my perception of Delta printers, which I didn't like before.
For high print speeds you also need to increase your nozzle temps. Filament can only flow so much at ~200. CNC Kitchen did a great breakdown of temperature vs flow rate.
Gasket up the Cheater and lets see who the real champion is. The Unswirler IS the leader now. The design is perfectly fine. You not mounting it well is user error imo.
Looking at a 1st printer for work and wondering if this one is beginner friendly. I like the build volume and a lot of the features. Is this one too much printer or would it be skipping over some of the headaches of a cheaper entry level printer.
Maj. Hardware, you should get a small articulating arm to put that monitor on. Then you can attach it to the machine itself and still view it from any angle. A good brand I've found is called SmallRig (typically for camera or audio use)
5:20 those carbon tubes are overkill haha, we use similar if not thinner tubes for suspension in our race car, they are probably not as thick in terms of wall thickness on the printer just found it curious
you mentioned your prusa being loud, a drop in mod is to use RJZM 02-08 IGUS bearings. It is eerie how much quieter this made my prusa. I think that vibrations rattling the ball bearings in the stock setup causes the majority of the noise. These Igus bearings are just one piece.
You should use those gaskets on all frame type fans for the gasket comparison to count IMO, including the Cheater. Gaskets seal everything, not just the Unswirler.
We had a fan beat the cheater and it wasn't even on an episode of fan showdown. This feels like needing to to read a comic book to get all the story for your favorite movie series.
I bought the Q5 mainly after seeing your review of it. I had considered the SR or V400 as a 2nd printer, but went with the Anycubic Kobra Plus instead. My only real issue with the Delta-style is the round bed. The Q5 at a diameter of 200mm equates to a square area of approx. 141x141mm. So you're basically sacrificing up to 30% of the bed the closer you get to a square print. Don't get me wrong, I love my Q5 and it is great for smaller prints, but I am finding the square build plate easier to work with for modeling.
Could not get the FL SR in Canada. Still cant with out having to go to a scalper and pay stupid pricing and I just don't trust them. So I went with the Bambo Lab X1 Carbon. Ccan you do a review on that unit? Surprised you didn't prior to the KS.
for a beginner would you recommend the FLSUN V400 is it easy to build., can it print multiple items on the heat bed? or would the Prusa Mini Plus, be a better choice as a beginner at 3D printing? A little down side really like that the FLSUN V400 has more filament options to chose from for printing items, can the Prusa Mini Plus also print TPU, PETG, PLA+ and Wood filament's.?
never used the prusa mini just the mk3, prusa makes good stuff i love my prusa, however when it comes to assembly putting the V400 is 10x easier. Also since getting my V400 i use that over my prusa, i would recommend V400, easier assembly, faster printer, quieter, and most importantly cheaper.
Hey Thomas, wouldn't a polar 3D printer be better for fans? Meaning something that has a turntable for the base. This way, the fan blades could be more similar than when using a delta.
Two years later (2024), how does the V400 compare to the current lineup of 3D printers in your workshop? Are you still using your delta printers , or have they been replaced by newer/better printers? I ask because Holiday Sales are going on right now and the V400 is sitting at an affordable price ($549 USD).
@@MajorHardware Oh, wow. Okay. Good info to know. Thank you for the quick feedback. I'll probably go with a base Bambu A1 for now and get an AMS Lite a few months down the road. 👍
I CALL SHENANIGANS !! Run the Cheater again with gaskets, and then put the real winner at the No1 spot for a fair comparison, Also every fan from now you need to use the gasket personally since you can re use this same one for all builds
One question, I need to print large format pieces where print quality doesn't matter much, but time is pressing, I'm between the elegoo neptune 3 max and this one. Bearing in mind that this one may require sectioning off larger pieces and waiting for the glue to dry when joining them, I'll still be able to get my pieces faster with this one than waiting for it to print in one piece in the elegoo even if it has a .8 mm extruder? Thanks in advance for your time
I have three SR printers and when the bowden tube chaffes internally I've gotten several times a micro tefflon debris feeding down to the print nozzle clogging it. The clean out and tube replacement is getting old! I'd love to just upgrade my two printers with the direct drive on the V400. Is that possible??
I still remember my first FLSUN printer. In the first days of home 3D printers they had basic kits. I got them right between supply chain changes for safer stuff. I got the manual for the wrong power supply, and one that was set to the wrong voltage. Needless to say, the wire exploded and connected my arm to mains electricity. shocker. still, it's because of that I was a very early adoper of creality. still using it, too, after most of a decade now.
The V400 looks like the go-to answer for what to do if I give up trying to make my Predator reliable for long prints. My Prusa has definitely sold me on direct extruders.
I know you're used to prusa slicer, but the real 400mm test is to use cura with the cura profile they provided. They have might have already done all the fine tuning you were talking about.
I'm sorry this is off topic but I don't know where else to go. My super racer nozzle scrapes the top of prints and at around 15 CMS it really rams into prints until it rips them off the print bed. It's not a layer adhesion issue because I can hear a sharp crack when it does this and I can't dislodge the prints unless I let the bed cool first. I've increased the z hop to 2 mm, enabled / disabled combing, retraction and also set the extruder to 70 % at which point it is really under extruding, yet it consistently snaps prints. I can't get a response back from flsun. I'd really appreciate any advice or troubleshooting steps.
Waiting for parts to be available for my q5 bought an Artillery Genius Pro while waiting for parts. haven't looked back. Forgot all about the FLsun. I should check if they have the parts again. the Delta is Cool, but Direct Drive for TPU.
Man I have been wanting a delta. I was looking at the SR but really wanted direct drive for TPU so I got the QIDI and love it. Butttttt Damn now to tell the wife I need this
Inquiry: I've been trying to find info on layer height specifications for the FLSun printers and am coming up empty. What are the minimum and maximum layer height for the SR and V400?
I know this is over a year old but i would love ti see how you like your flsun now, i currenlty have a 10 minute benchie profile and am continuing to tweek as well shooting for a 7 minute.
Why ? it did not taken in account the results with gasket the cheater is still no1 And in the cheater test there was no visible leak it's the first time a leak is visible in the smoke test And a need to rewatch the video but it looked like he used only 2 tie rap to hold the part to the fan and it was leaking by the corner with no tie rap
Hello! Always love your content! I just pre-ordered the V400 last week and was curious if you can provide your filament types (Material and Brand) and settings you use in your slicer? Just want to be ready as soon as possible once I get it!
A screen shot or two of the webui over wifi would really sell this, it's amazing looking and something people are just not familiar with in the product line.
LAYER SHIFTS... how is this machine at preventing layer shifts.. my X-1,s are driving me nuts with layer shifts.. i just want a dependable machine.. can we depend on this to just WORK.
I bet you could make some fan screw sized bolts and wingnuts super easy now rather than waste zipties if you decide to go further than this with gaskets. I still really want to see that conglomeration of air systems you rigged up for the bladeless sealed like that!
Ok so now the cheater with gaskets! For SCIENCE!
This is a must.
^ I agree here. Although there was one that came close to tying the cheater with a little leak.....
Need it!
hell yeah
For the love of christ all mighty, put the cheater with gaskets on that flow test. I bet all my money it will stomp a mud hole in all the other fans.
Fans rating chart should be split into two categories. One with scoop (includes intake and exhaust) and one without. All the ones with scoop, should have gasket installed for fairness. I'm all for best fan design, but having the scoop changes it from something I can print and replace on my stock fan, to something that needs serious case modification to actually be used.
this is the way
maybe 3 groups, with the no scoop category split based on if it extends above the fan body or stays within
I think 2 groups with like 30mm or less thickness and bigger
@@TheWilliamSnfrd This is the way
Definitely this
It should be standard policy to include these TPU gaskets unless the design conflicts with their use. PLA isnt great as a seal…Even with the flat design, the TPU was able to seal better.
TPU for all!
Tpu is great for noise too. I switched to it on my laptop cooling thingy and it enabled using a far noisier squirrel cage fan on it without being too loud.
I did also make an intake muffler out of it.
(It's basically just a duct that holds the 100mm squirrel cage fan and goes straight to gpu cooler intake.)
I think we don't really need to custom print a gasket here. Every A12x25 fan comes with a seal for a radiator. I think he should have enough of these to use
In the end, it also depends on surface finish and build plate surface how it seals.. so gasket should be fair
Negative... It should be standard practice to apply fluid dynamics to the best of *YOUR* knowledge. Not, him cover for your lack of attention to detail.
@@DJBillionator it’s not a lack of knowledge when build surfaces and how the design is mounted can have a significant impact… as shown in this video. Two actually flat surfaces mounted well together should provide enough resistance against leaks under these test conditions, yet it didn’t work. FDM printing isn’t perfect. So a consistent application of this gasket would create an even playing field for the designs that have shrouds/exhaust/etc.
I think the seals against the noctua fan body should be standard practice going forward. If users want additional seals or a seal of a specific size/shape, then they should provide their own schematics for them.
Not now in the middle of the season so that the results are comparable, but definitely in the next one.
No point in supplying a new seal file if he already has a seal lying around.
@@Pystro it's like you didn't even read what I said. He'd still have the "standard seal" on the fan body. But since people submit fans of all shapes and sizes, there's not gonna be a one size fits all seal. In a situation where a user submits a fan that is either oddly shaped or has multiple stacking parts, then he/she should also provide files for a seal that would fit their design. If not, then only use the standard seal and nothing else.
@@drumlineking07 Agreed, it's like I didn't even read what you said. Oops. Must be because I'm too tired.
Negative... The objective of this channel is it is the users responsibility to apply fluid dynamics to the best of their knowledge. This, would include seals... Stop promoting laziness.
Seeing the performance gain from the gaskets would it be possible to use them on all multi-stage designs from here on out?
Yeah! It would be! Submitters need to include the gaskets in their designs.
For the new season of Fan Showdown, use those gaskets for all builds. Just use 'em as part of the Noctua fan base.
The rubber corners on the fan are what cause it to leak. Even just removing them would be a benefit.
I've been thinking that for a couple of episodes
@@SkillisForNoobs Noctua includes a full rubber gasket for the boxed versions of the A12x25 which are really useful: they fully cover one side of the fan, not just the corners. Just have to swap the corners for it. At the sides it a bit thin so placement can be finicky but worth it.
Not really the cheater didn't have any visible leak in the smoke test it's the first time a leak is apparent in the test
So it more this particular print that is to blame (not flat)
Just wanted to say that you are really enjoyable to watch. Your overall video quality is always very consistent, good audio, and great clarity. You are really good at listening to your subscribers and very thoughtful and fairly thorough in your videos. THANK YOU for all you do. Thank you.
I cant wait for mine to arrive! 3D Printers Workshop is giving away free filament when you purchase the V400 from them. This will be my first 3D Printer. Cant wait to apart of the maker community!!!
I also ordered from 3D Printers Workshop. From what I can tell they are a legit outfit and have a good rating with the BBB. I was a little hesitant because of the false claim of ordering within the next 9 hours and get it in less than a week although below it showed the actual shipping times. Other than that we'll see how it goes. I used paypal in case of any trouble.
Just want to say thanks for all the awesome 3D printing content. I ordered the Q5 over a year ago and had a really hard time getting it to work right, and after a week or two of trying to figure it out I gave up, but kept watching your fan showcase videos. This very week though I have gotten back into it and have gotten some good prints. in that year I managed to learn a lot about blender and 3D modeling so it's all falling into place. :D
The Q5 can be amazing but like all can be finicky and at times disastrous. I’ve gone for a couple months without touching it from issues I couldn’t figure out.
@@jdizzforyou agreed. Above anything it's a great starting point. Mine stopped leveling properly at some point, but you can easily replace the board, extruder, hotend, servos etc over time. Getting that good sturdy base and compact footprint is the true appeal of the at.
@@Charky_Creations and the price I got it at… 159 shipped during a Christmas sale on gearbest 2 years ago 😂
Stock board running marlin with the only upgrade being capricorn tubing.
I’m telling you guys check out Borg Warner turbos compressor blades, specifically their “extended tip technology” and apply that to your fan designs.
If you want to throw the air out the side, sure go with a turbo type blade... Wheel to be precise, they aren't made to throw air through them, without the housing, the wheel is useless, extended tip or not.
Yeah, I got some extended tip technology for ya right here.
Talk about breaking potential patents. Have to be careful when "copying" another person's or company's product.
@@WLS_Churchill I didn’t say design a whole turbo compressor, I said consider the extended tip technology…
@@meanman6992 The extended tip technology maximise the air flow IN THE HOUSING. It's useless on a fan that isn't a turbo wheel, wich is useless outside of the housing, ya understand ?
HELL YES
Thank you for listening!
I'm so glad to see the gaskets made a difference
Love you for listening to your fans.
FLSUN was great and is getting better
i dont get why so few people know and appreciate it
still rocking my q5 because of you
Love your channel.
Super chill host. A dude in his man cave lab with his dog.
Interacts with the community better than if they were real life friends.
Listens to suggestions and shoots new videos fast.
Finger licking good quality, lighting, music, smoke teeeeeeests.
Thank you so much for the free (to view) contents.
This is the way.
YES! GASKETS!
It doesn't seem like it would have a big effect but imagine air flows like water, even a tiny hole matters if you are creating pressure. Great work 👍
Air is a fluid so dont have to imagine much
@luuliiquiinteroo3017scam
This was a surprisingly good video to watch; I feel like I could watch you print random stuff; or even some showdown stuff on the regular.
Dude…I’ve been watching your videos for a while. You’re so smooth and natural. You could get away with doing some story telling vids. Love what you do.
For my smaller fans at home I have also found that just adding a spacer (like that gasket) greatly helps with reducing turbulence and improving airflow. I added mine specifically to cut down on the noise of the fans on my 3D printer whose fan grills were all very close to the fan itself.
Suggestion: Use the gaskets for all interfaces to the front or back of the A12x25 frame from now on.
This would free us up from having to design our own gaskets, and it frees James up from having to print them.
(printing TPU is a real pain… you have to dry it out and slow the print speed waaaay down.)
Also, test the Cheater with the gaskets, to make it fair.
im still driving my Q5, on your recommendation. it's done a great job on a ton of projects for me, really glad i got it!
I wonder how well the cheater would do with the seals that you printed...
The build volume on deltas is conical at the top.... Just something to consider when mentioning build volume
On the suction side of fans a seal for the vacuum is very important just like intakes on cars, any kind of small leak that disturbs the smooth flow will affect performance pretty heavily for suck a small leak
You should use the seals from now on for future showdowns, it'll make the results more fair cus it'll remove the variable of leaks from the tests. We're trying to determine what fan shape (and sometimes guides) work best, and removing anything else that could cause an issue from the equation will make results more consistent and precise.
This is a very tempting looking printer and I have closer 2,000 hours runtime on my poor SR pushing it to 220 mm/s with the only upgrade being 5015 cooling fans
For the next season:
1. Remove the vibration dampening corners
2. Use gaskets on all designs
I have the SR.
My only gripe with it is the original hot-end for whatever reason had blockage issues. Both nozzles failed within the first few prints.
After rebuilding/upgrading the break, nozzle, and block, everything worked great.
Seeing the upgrades on the newer version... Very nice.
I'm so jealous. I just bought a Sherpa direct extruder and mounted it on my SR, and I installed Klipper with a touchscreen running mainsail. They did everything I did, plus they beefed up the arms and increased the build volume. I want it so bad.
^When Eric Smith walks into a car dealership when he doesn't need anything and a salesman slaps the roof of a new vehicle.
@@Oblithian Hey, I have space for two deltas in my life, the kids should be moving out soon. If the salesman talks to his manager, do you think he could get me a free undercoating? I heard it really helps these printers stand up to puddles and rock salt.
Drop details I’ll ship 1 out.
Love your channel, inspiring people to just try stuff and then implementing their ideas just to see what happens, you are an enabler of stuff. A legend.
With the vast diversity of fan designs you get and test, why is there never an airflow vs. static pressure vs. obstruction test? You would only need a 3D-printed set of obstruction plates for your wind tunnel (with holes in them) and a differential air pressure sensor.
I converted my Ender 3 to a direct drive with a $35 kit and never looked back. The almost complete lack of stringing easily makes up for the need to slow down the outer-most wall to avoid ringing. Plus I can just crank up the print speed for the inner walls to make up for it, since the direct drive's material-extruded-vs-estop curve is far flatter.
I converted one of my E3s to direct drive with a printed polycarbonate bracket a good quality titan clone and a spare stepper i had. Works fantastic even for tpu.
Them using Klipper is for some reason genius, the number of times companies tried doing their own thing and falling miserably...
This printer changed the my perception of Delta printers, which I didn't like before.
My printer's stock firmware didn't even have overheat protection, on hardware known for catching on fire.
For high print speeds you also need to increase your nozzle temps. Filament can only flow so much at ~200. CNC Kitchen did a great breakdown of temperature vs flow rate.
There are few things more satisfying to watch than a time lapse of a 3D print.
One problem with the Noctua is the rubberized corners that prevent a good seal.
Gasket up the Cheater and lets see who the real champion is. The Unswirler IS the leader now. The design is perfectly fine. You not mounting it well is user error imo.
agreed the cheater has been dethroned
agreed.
Looking at a 1st printer for work and wondering if this one is beginner friendly. I like the build volume and a lot of the features. Is this one too much printer or would it be skipping over some of the headaches of a cheaper entry level printer.
Did we test flex blades yet or at least Multimaterial prints, can't remember?
Got my first printer a month or two ago: Prusa MK3S+. Already has well over 1000 hours on the clock and it's nothing short of perfection
That's cool but Noctua already includes seals with their A12x25 fans lol, it's in the packaging!
Maj. Hardware, you should get a small articulating arm to put that monitor on. Then you can attach it to the machine itself and still view it from any angle. A good brand I've found is called SmallRig (typically for camera or audio use)
Hm … don’t the A12x25’s come with those seal gaskets for radiators ???
I know my Chromax versions do …
Why not use those ???
5:20 those carbon tubes are overkill haha, we use similar if not thinner tubes for suspension in our race car, they are probably not as thick in terms of wall thickness on the printer just found it curious
Why not use the square gaskets that come with a25 fans? they're inside of the box already. or at least removing the corner pieces should help too
Cool that they are shipping printers with Klipper as stock choice. Does it have an accelerometer to do the resonance calibration?
you mentioned your prusa being loud, a drop in mod is to use RJZM 02-08 IGUS bearings. It is eerie how much quieter this made my prusa. I think that vibrations rattling the ball bearings in the stock setup causes the majority of the noise. These Igus bearings are just one piece.
You should use those gaskets on all frame type fans for the gasket comparison to count IMO, including the Cheater. Gaskets seal everything, not just the Unswirler.
We had a fan beat the cheater and it wasn't even on an episode of fan showdown. This feels like needing to to read a comic book to get all the story for your favorite movie series.
Can you try to use the gaskets on the cheater, now?
Not that bad for an under 20 minutes benchy, I'm impressed
yes, it seems like an extremely impressive printer
I bought the Q5 mainly after seeing your review of it. I had considered the SR or V400 as a 2nd printer, but went with the Anycubic Kobra Plus instead. My only real issue with the Delta-style is the round bed. The Q5 at a diameter of 200mm equates to a square area of approx. 141x141mm. So you're basically sacrificing up to 30% of the bed the closer you get to a square print.
Don't get me wrong, I love my Q5 and it is great for smaller prints, but I am finding the square build plate easier to work with for modeling.
Used your link for pre-order! I've been waiting for a large volume delta since the failed IVI printer
Could not get the FL SR in Canada.
Still cant with out having to go to a scalper and pay stupid pricing and I just don't trust them.
So I went with the Bambo Lab X1 Carbon.
Ccan you do a review on that unit? Surprised you didn't prior to the KS.
Can you publish those fan gaskets please? They'd make great vibration dampeners for cheapo fans!
I agree with the notion that gaskets should be standard from now on for fan tests.
Finally getting my first FDM printer in a few days. I'm hyped
I think you need a more stable base for the printer. I can see your desk vibrating when the printer moves quick.
for a beginner would you recommend the FLSUN V400 is it easy to build., can it print multiple items on the heat bed? or would the Prusa Mini Plus, be a better choice as a beginner at 3D printing? A little down side really like that the FLSUN V400 has more filament options to chose from for printing items, can the Prusa Mini Plus also print TPU, PETG, PLA+ and Wood filament's.?
never used the prusa mini just the mk3, prusa makes good stuff i love my prusa, however when it comes to assembly putting the V400 is 10x easier. Also since getting my V400 i use that over my prusa, i would recommend V400, easier assembly, faster printer, quieter, and most importantly cheaper.
@@MajorHardware Thanks' for the quick reply back :)
Hey Thomas, wouldn't a polar 3D printer be better for fans? Meaning something that has a turntable for the base. This way, the fan blades could be more similar than when using a delta.
The revelation that I'd be able to print my own fan and radiator gaskets may be what finally compels me to get into 3D printing
Where r u at one point this hobby now?
Two years later (2024), how does the V400 compare to the current lineup of 3D printers in your workshop? Are you still using your delta printers , or have they been replaced by newer/better printers? I ask because Holiday Sales are going on right now and the V400 is sitting at an affordable price ($549 USD).
I only use bambu now currently there the best thing in the market
@@MajorHardware Oh, wow. Okay. Good info to know. Thank you for the quick feedback. I'll probably go with a base Bambu A1 for now and get an AMS Lite a few months down the road. 👍
I CALL SHENANIGANS !!
Run the Cheater again with gaskets, and then put the real winner at the No1 spot for a fair comparison, Also every fan from now you need to use the gasket personally since you can re use this same one for all builds
What is the over all size, not print area? I can't find this anywhere Thanks
One question, I need to print large format pieces where print quality doesn't matter much, but time is pressing, I'm between the elegoo neptune 3 max and this one. Bearing in mind that this one may require sectioning off larger pieces and waiting for the glue to dry when joining them, I'll still be able to get my pieces faster with this one than waiting for it to print in one piece in the elegoo even if it has a .8 mm extruder? Thanks in advance for your time
I have three SR printers and when the bowden tube chaffes internally I've gotten several times a micro tefflon debris feeding down to the print nozzle clogging it. The clean out and tube replacement is getting old! I'd love to just upgrade my two printers with the direct drive on the V400. Is that possible??
why dont you remove the rubber corners of the noctua fans? idk kinda feels unnecessary to have them with or without the PLA seals in this case.
I still remember my first FLSUN printer. In the first days of home 3D printers they had basic kits. I got them right between supply chain changes for safer stuff. I got the manual for the wrong power supply, and one that was set to the wrong voltage. Needless to say, the wire exploded and connected my arm to mains electricity. shocker. still, it's because of that I was a very early adoper of creality. still using it, too, after most of a decade now.
The V400 looks like the go-to answer for what to do if I give up trying to make my Predator reliable for long prints. My Prusa has definitely sold me on direct extruders.
Q5 was my first printer. It’s still going strong!
Factory installed Klipper! Nice! I love Klipper! I run it on my 2 Ender 5 plus'
I know you're used to prusa slicer, but the real 400mm test is to use cura with the cura profile they provided. They have might have already done all the fine tuning you were talking about.
I'm sorry this is off topic but I don't know where else to go. My super racer nozzle scrapes the top of prints and at around 15 CMS it really rams into prints until it rips them off the print bed. It's not a layer adhesion issue because I can hear a sharp crack when it does this and I can't dislodge the prints unless I let the bed cool first.
I've increased the z hop to 2 mm, enabled / disabled combing, retraction and also set the extruder to 70 % at which point it is really under extruding, yet it consistently snaps prints. I can't get a response back from flsun. I'd really appreciate any advice or troubleshooting steps.
I personally think you should give the fan the #1 spot. I mean, if I were the author I'd just resubmit it anyways.
Have you tried changing the nozle to a bigger diameter? How hard is it to change?
How do you put that inside your case? This doesn't make sense anymore
If you take the anti vibration rubber pad off the fan frame it should be a much closer fit even without the gaskets.
If I recall the designer noted it needed gaskets. So would this not be a drop on your end. There are on market fan gaskets.
Waiting for parts to be available for my q5
bought an Artillery Genius Pro while waiting for parts.
haven't looked back.
Forgot all about the FLsun.
I should check if they have the parts again.
the Delta is Cool, but Direct Drive for TPU.
Man I have been wanting a delta. I was looking at the SR but really wanted direct drive for TPU so I got the QIDI and love it. Butttttt Damn now to tell the wife I need this
Looking at it a year later, would you still recommend this printer? I'm looking to get into Deltas from my Ender 3 S1!
Inquiry: I've been trying to find info on layer height specifications for the FLSun printers and am coming up empty. What are the minimum and maximum layer height for the SR and V400?
I’m curious how the FLSUN V400 Does after daily driving it for a while. And what you think you might change on it or don’t like.
I know this is over a year old but i would love ti see how you like your flsun now, i currenlty have a 10 minute benchie profile and am continuing to tweek as well shooting for a 7 minute.
The guide rails were probably swapped because they get rusty after a while, and they have far too much play. I have to replace two of my rails already
Excellent use of the gasket - if you're using one in the future, remove the corner isolators off the plastic fan housing.
You need to re test the cheater with gaskets for it to be fair.
Why ? it did not taken in account the results with gasket the cheater is still no1
And in the cheater test there was no visible leak it's the first time a leak is visible in the smoke test
And a need to rewatch the video but it looked like he used only 2 tie rap to hold the part to the fan and it was leaking by the corner with no tie rap
Do you recycle the stuff you've printed that you're done with?
Hello! Always love your content! I just pre-ordered the V400 last week and was curious if you can provide your filament types (Material and Brand) and settings you use in your slicer? Just want to be ready as soon as possible once I get it!
Can you retest the Cheater also with the new seal?
I am really interested in seeing Noctua Redux S12B in this test, AFAIK it should have higher airflow than A12X25...
very specific question, but do you think a 3D printer, especially the FLSUN V400, can be used to print dirt bike parts, and be strong enough? Thanks
3D printed parts aren't known for strength exactly
A screen shot or two of the webui over wifi would really sell this, it's amazing looking and something people are just not familiar with in the product line.
LAYER SHIFTS... how is this machine at preventing layer shifts.. my X-1,s are driving me nuts with layer shifts.. i just want a dependable machine.. can we depend on this to just WORK.
4 months in with the v400 would you still recommend it? Wanting to upgrade from my ender 3 v2. Getting tired of 13 hour prints lol
I just got new bowden tubing for my Q5, wish I could’ve just gotten a V400.
I wonder if there is an extruder small enough for the Q5….
Just got fun you should test the difference on the cheater with gaskets. Great stuff as always.
I bet you could make some fan screw sized bolts and wingnuts super easy now rather than waste zipties if you decide to go further than this with gaskets. I still really want to see that conglomeration of air systems you rigged up for the bladeless sealed like that!
You have the power of Klipper there, use it and abuse it :-) Input Shaping and Pressure Advance tuning for starters.
I absolutely love my Q5 and this new printer is the first one to tempt me into wanting a new an upgrade!