OH MY GOD, you are using my swappable duct on the Q5! I am so happy right now :D Thank you James. It was designed for the stock nozzle and I can see you have tweaked yours a little, so I don't know how well it works like that, but thank you for trying my duct. P.S. You got me into 3D printing by the way with your Q5 review and I owe this design up to you.
His review of the Q5 also got me into 3D printing. Absolutely wonderful review and finally convinced me to bite the bullet and get a printer. Couldn't be happier now.
There's something gloriously absurd about buying a product with an imperfection/flaw and then using that same product to fix the flaw and make the product you purchased better.
3d printing was invented on that idea itself .... patents expired and reprap was born and people made their own printers and improved them sequentially as technology evolved ... this is the open source nature of things ... you improve the product you like. So now, what's absurd about that?
@@NanescuRadu1 What's absurd is that the product is relatively easily fixed with itself but you still have to fix it yourself after buying it because the company that makes it didn't fix it before selling it.
@@UnspecifiedHealer its a 200$ ~ printer ... and yes to get that price down you have to use parts that are cheap and inherently you make it an inferior one .... prusa is 1000$ but they offer everything open source so you can make it yourself ... i don't find it absurd to buy a cheap printer and 3d print some upgrades for it
@@NanescuRadu1 they could setup like 4 of these machines to just make fan shrouds and have each made for less than a dollar even if they had someone staring at the machines print the whole time. The duct they use oem still costs them money and isn't free itself. Prusa for example would be doing this, as they use their own machines to print their own machines, so it's not like they don't own the tooling to do it because they are selling the tool. Or they could have an "upgrade" option for $1 to include it, even if it's not installed just drop it in the box
@@jakegarrett8109 making a $1 dolar fan shround is the easiest one. Design, test, iterate will cost alot more ... and then ... putting it in a fixed budget ... i’m not defending them but printers for the longest time didn’t have part cooling fans and they still worked well ... you could say that about creality’s part cooling fans also .. they kinda suck on ender3v1 and cr10 and 10s
I have just got my FLSun SR. It is going to replace my old delta. Everything you say about the SR is true. It was a breeze to assemble and level the bed. The prints are really very good and I have not begun to tweak the Cura settings for this. The tools are better than the norm and the spare parts a pleasant surprise. I am very happy with it.
i feel like i have more failures with the ender 3 than i do on my FLSUN QQS Pro...quicker too., might need to get my hands on one of these. hopefully they fixed the crap mainboard
My first printer was a big Chinese delta and it really wasn't a big deal. I think the concerns over the fiddliness and reliability of deltas is overhyped.
They actually have fewer parts to go wrong, versus a Cartesian, with 3x towers that are all the same. They look complicated, but it's really the control/calibration side that's more complex -- and calibration is a problem you only have to solve once if it's a well-built printer. I think deltas get a bad rap because there are so many badly-built and worse-ly calibrated ones out there that can't do better than dumpster-quality prints.
under your recommendations, i bought the Q5, and ive been running the wheels off that thing printing D&D minis, as well as cases for my wife's insulin pump. fantastic little unit. Been using Cura to make adjustments to the print files. i was looking for a larger printer for some of the bigger models i wanted to print, 300mm+ stuff, and this looks like it might handle most of what i want to do. looks like im putting another FLSUN on my wishlist!
Replace the extruder drivers with a TMC2209 in SpreadCycle mode. So much quieter and works wonderfully. My Q5 is stored in my bedroom, printing while we sleep.
@@Tintop I left it stock, but wired it into a mosfet connection (think HE1) and set it to auto in Marlin firmware. At least it only turns on when temp is above 50°C. I did switch out the part cooling fan for a 5015 blower fan instead.
If your getting pauses and blobs on small prints, disable power loss recovery by adding it to your starting gcode in cura. On small prints because of the print size and speeds, the printer has to pause to save the code
@@AnIdiotwithaSubaru I have recently been informed that a 'delta' is also a type of 3D Printer which is was referring to and not the deltas between the deltas. I stand by my statement and will be water cooling my 3d printer tonight!
You actually missed quite a few things during your review. So, first, their major marketing claim is that the SR is extremely fast compared to their other models or cartesian printers - I think they claim that it can do 150mm/s no problem and can even go faster than that. Would have been cool to see if that worked out or not. Also did you notice the blobs on the Benchy from the Q5? That's an issue with Cura 4.8 (they did something with the resolution setting) - on the Q5 (and many other printers) you have to increase the maximum resolution to fix that issue (my value is 4, btw). The likely cause is apparently slow processing of the board/firmware from what I understand and mini stoppages during the print due to that. The SR didn't have those blobs with the same gcode - at least from what I saw in that video, so this issue seems to be fixed, so they improved the board and/or the firmware performance.
hey could you explain a bit more the resolution? my ender 3 pro is doing the same and I've been thinking about replacing everything i can since it used to print pretty smooth without deformation on the layer outside walls. I'll try changing my maximum resolution to 4mm on cura and see if anything changes. thanks!
@@gordodefuego I think it's something to do with how Cura calculates curvatures. Anyway, apparently the old versions were actually bugged and the resolution was actually higher than what you entered. And even with such a high value as 4mm I couldn't make out a quality difference between Cura 4.7 and 4.8. But I think only the Cura devs know what exactly the max resolution setting entails.
Hi, oh that's something I noticed with my Q5 since the 4.8 update. So my maximum resolution is currently 0.5mm. Should it be 0.4 or 4mm? Not sure if that was a typo.
The problem with this video is that I bought the q5 and I love it. Now 8 months later, I'm thinking about buying the SR. One thing that I think it a huge advantage other than the items listed in this video is that because it uses linear rails instead of the 2020, there is nothing on the outside of the legs. It is going to be simple to make an enclosure for it to print ABS. I had hoped all of the electronics/motors were in the base, but I can make a cover to keep the chamber heat from escaping into the top and cooking the control board.
I got put off FLSUN after I got the qq-s Pro. After the lousy customer service, around 300 failed prints, 6 months of trying everything recommended by the FB group, and swaping to marlin fw, I broke it down for parts. Now I'm running a Ender 6,
Very happy to see you take a look at this printer as well! I bought the Q5 based on watching your videos (now modded with silent fans, filament holder and more). The FLSUN SR looks very tempting as a second / upgrade, especially with the advertised default print speed of 150mm/s and larger bed area. Curious to see how it performs!
@@ProjectorGames I'd have to see it to believe it when it comes to backwards specs like that, as smaller = lighter typically for Delta. That stat might be like the machines at work they were having to run slower than a snail at 20mm/s (I print small gears at 120mm/s and the size parts they did I'd be running 200mm/s on my knock off cheap DIY reprap), but they advertised at impossible speeds for the $6k printer and it printed like $hit even at slow speeds. The smaller it is the less mass (especially on a Delta), so the smaller the finer detail and higher speeds you should be able to attain. This is also partly true for bed slingers but I've yet to find that real limit since I can just wire a second motor on mine very easily if 150+ mm/s becomes a problem but it hasn't even when I have tall 500 gram parts shaking back and forth at stupid high acceleration it just seems to work on my machine One of the ones at work is a coreXY, so that thing should be doing like 300+ mm/s but they were stupid and made it a duel extruder like idiots (Airwolf sucks), so it could only print half as fast, then on top of that they are direct drive instead of bowden so divide that by 3 again so that's how you end up taking a 300 mm/s capable machine down to a turtle speed of 50mm/s theoretical napkin math and it turns out that's pretty accurate because I was able to tune them faster but only for large parts because I had to have them accelerate so slow...
@@petercallison5765 ...according to, you know, the Cura Profile FLSUN have been showing? And the videos. Screenshots. They're claiming 150mm/s as opposed to the Q5's 60mm/s. There's literally zero reason to doubt this, but you seem... skeptical?
Maybe you should look at a CoreXY style printer, or possibly get an Ender 3 for heavy modding to make into a CoreXY. Supposedly they have most of the benefits of Delta's ability to use all three steppers for any and all movement, while maintaining the ability to use a heavier print head, and a small enough mechanical footprint to scale in print space way more efficiently. I have an Ender 3 Pro, and when I get the spare cash I'm definitely planning to rebuild it with a CoreXY kit down the line. I've already upgraded it with the 4.2.7 silent board and E3V2 display, along with a BLTouch, and a decent amount of repair parts to fix it up after it had a bad life under a previous owner.
I changed the driver for the q5 but with the stock firmware it was louder I think because I couldn't adjust anything. With stock Marlin it is nearly silent with a tmc driver for the extruder stepper. I wish they would just add the 3€ for the better driver so it is silent 😕
A better comparison would've been with the exact same filament, humidity alone in filament can change the quality of a print. Not to mention the loads of other variables in filaments and their manufacturing.
i just bought the FLSun Q5 as my first 3d printer. I have never done any CAD, or anything similar to 3D printing so we'll see in how it goes in 2 weeks after it ships. *fingers crossed
$399 is a steal for a delta that makes so many design choices right -- especially linear bearings and sprung ball-cup CF arms -- and takes so much of the construction and calibration burden off the end user. I hope it proves reliable and takes off!
Nice, cant wait to receive mine too. But until then, would be nice to see how fast it can print a benchy, should be capabale of twice the speed of Q5, at stock settings, so around 7 min maybe 😁
if you are still interested in doing cooling experiments I've had a pretty neat idea (might be kinda hard idk). Could you set up a large water cooling reservoir and get a ice machine, like from a freezer or something, to constantly deposit ice into the reservoir? there would have to be some sort of excess water run off, but Im mostly just curious if it would be worth the pain to have ice cold water going through the system
One thing: This is a fixed bed printer. You have to level and Z0 the hot (your printing temps) machine. Another thing: The QQ-S already has the better hotend. What really improved much are bearings, rods, mainboard, firmware and drivers.
Nice video first time watching and layer lag with sr Also would you be willing to share any slizer tips .Oh last ? Can you adjust e steps through interface ? Thank you for your time
You are welcome for the cooling duct Major! :-) you might like the marlin firmware upgrade too - its changed this q5- oh don't forget about the nozzle .. the stock nozzle sucks so get this one - Genuine E3D V6 Extra Nozzle - 1.75mm x 0.40mm (V6-NOZZLE-175-400)
cool !! I've been saying for 7 years that "DELTA IS KING." I've probably saved over 1000 parts with the included spatula, caz the build plate does NOT move ! Plus U can put stuff on the build plate. Fans , supports, etc. Yes, for real, I have impromptu put random objects as supports for really tall parts and all kinds of weird stuff. For a challenge try printing a 200m tall hexagon which is 10mm wide.
I remember a video where you were worried about an aluminum radiator and copper water block because of galvanic corrosion. You should treat the radiator interior with alodine 1201 to neutralize it.
I think you need to replace that nozzle on the q5, bet it will print much better. Those nozzles should get replaced frequently to maintain print quality.
Unless you want to glue two halves together then it's not as comparable. If you only print small things where speed with multiple parts is more important then obviously the 2 cheaper printers would win (assuming the surface finish is not critical, though I'm surprised because usually the smaller printers are better for that but in this case at those settings the large one somehow won). My rule of thumb: if you don't need the large print volume get the smaller one, because at the same or lower price you'll get either faster printing or higher quality prints, or often both.
speed test please! they claim 100-200mm/s. What I really want to see is how much faster it can print than the q5 (or prusa), and still keep the same print quality.
Nice video. To the point, and interesting. Personally I like my coreXY printers, never having owned a delta. It will be intesting to own 1 someday just to compare to my to Ender 3 printers. The build volume is just below my Ender 3 Max I got 3 weeks ago.
I also started with the Tevo Tornado. Still running. I am curious to the comparison of print time between the boats. For me, time is the biggest investment. Please share the time to print.
Get some quieter stepper drivers (tmc 2208 or tmc2209) then get noctua fans for the printer power supply included. The printer should be really quiet to the point you'll check and see if it's running or not
What’s this background music you played throughout the episode? Also never been too interesting in getting a 3D printer but with all your content I think I’m getting there. Good job as usual 🤙!
That looks so much better than the original QQ-S! That machine was crap!! Hopefully it has a solid board in it. Bummer manufacturers are dragging their feet implementing spring steel build plates.
Very nice! I'm considering getting a 3D Printer to make little things like rear I/O shields and fan shrouds so these seem like great options. Thanks for the great videos!
@@matthiasgibkes7829 In my cura profile, I change the stop code for the printer to: M107 T0 M104 S0 M104 S0 T1 M140 S0 G92 E0 G91 G1 E-1 F300 G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000 G28 X0 Y0 G90 ;absolute positioning If you use Repetier to send / control the printer, you can also add it to the stop code or just enable 'go to home position after stop / kill' in the printer settings It's also worth checking your belts as well, just to be sure they aren't loose.
Major Hardware, question using the FLSUN Super Race, can you use a 1.75 mm carbon fiber nylon in the printer or not? I ordered a FLSUN Super Racer and exciting to get it. But just wondering before I put a bunch of money out to get the Carbon fiber nylon, and it can't extrude right or mess up the printer. could you try and make a benchy with 1.75 mm Carbon Fiber Nylon in your next video of the FLSUN Super Racer? Thank you
Hi man do you use the cura version shipped with the flsun q5? Because i have a flsun q5 and my benchy doesnt have the little blobs i use cura 4.8 i use the template of the flsun qq and i just changed the size om my printer. Nice video i realy enjoy the content 😀
Is it as big or bigger than the qqs pro im liking the rigidity of this compared to my qqs pro im going to have to get it if its not smaller than the qqs pro i like the controller its sweet
Starting to question legitimacy of flsun3d website. It was awkward to register and when I tried to order somebody else's address was listed as shipping. Thought I had it straightened out but other than the money they took from PayPal I have had no response.
when I printed the bolt the printer vibrated a little from touching the what was printed below, is it normal that the noozle is so close to the part while printing ?
OK, cool time lapses are one thing, but what benefit is there to a delta over an i3? There are some pretty decent, budget i3 printers out there, not the least from Creality. I love my Prusa machines, and always recommend them, but am I missing something by not having a delta in my farm?
Nice! I saw them on the Flsun site when I was buying parts for my QQ-pros. Would you know how much of a step up they would be from mine? (I'm running 5 QQ-5s) My only complaint for delta printer is you NEED to upgrade to metal core belts ASAP to save yourself any issues after 1200-1800 hours of print time.
What I'm always worrying is: How dimensionally accurate is a delta printer really? Because when calibration is off by even the tiniest amount - on a delta, all dimensions are crap then, not just one of the axes…
It's really no more of a concern than on a Cartesian, and auto-calibration figures it out pretty well. Calibrating a delta by hand to get perfectly sized and flat prints takes a fair bit of trial and error, but it's not really a problem on a well-built machine, and only needs to be done once anyway. Also, if calibration is off (assuming the machine is built right), it's equally off in XY, and I'd rather have my squares and circles 1% oversized and still square/round than get rectangles and ovals that are 1% too wide in one axis only :)
Tried to purchase the SR through your link but must be having problems the order page was not responding (edit issue has been resolved order has been placed currently waiting at order has been submitted) love the content!
Hi,if you encounter any problems, you can contact the official staff of FLSUN, or leave a message on the official website of FLSUN, we will reply in time.
Is that a prime line or just filament that fell off? I have a qq-s and I love the prime line on my ender and geeetech but haven't figured out if it's possible for a delta printer. If it is can you share your g-code?
Hey, i have the Flsuh Q5. Im using Cura 4.13, but my Prints Looks Reality Bad. The Test Prints look really good but whatever i slice and print is looking horrible. What i need to change in settings ?
I am a straight up noob when it comes to 3d printing looking at getting my first printer this summer. What design software would you recommend for a novice? I am a software support engineer so pc knowledge is high but never played around with any 3d design software. Recommendations of software from the community would be appreciated. Ty.
You'll pick up Autodesk Fusion 360 in no time. Runs fine on a game PC, free hobbyist license that gets renewed every year (paid subscription E495/y and up). Enough tutorials on the tube to ease you into CAD, with the option to switch to more heavy-duty or open source alternatives later on.
@@yp-lo8op I forgot to say, if you're looking to get into more decorative, ornamental or mash-up/kitbash prints then Blender might be a more logical entry point for 3D design. It lets you sculpt your models, and you can use it more like a vector drawing program, with an extra dimension. Free program, mostly free tutorials in every style and on every aspect. Less suitable for engineering type stuff, though.
OH MY GOD, you are using my swappable duct on the Q5! I am so happy right now :D Thank you James. It was designed for the stock nozzle and I can see you have tweaked yours a little, so I don't know how well it works like that, but thank you for trying my duct.
P.S. You got me into 3D printing by the way with your Q5 review and I owe this design up to you.
His review of the Q5 also got me into 3D printing. Absolutely wonderful review and finally convinced me to bite the bullet and get a printer. Couldn't be happier now.
There's something gloriously absurd about buying a product with an imperfection/flaw and then using that same product to fix the flaw and make the product you purchased better.
3d printing was invented on that idea itself .... patents expired and reprap was born and people made their own printers and improved them sequentially as technology evolved ... this is the open source nature of things ... you improve the product you like. So now, what's absurd about that?
@@NanescuRadu1 What's absurd is that the product is relatively easily fixed with itself but you still have to fix it yourself after buying it because the company that makes it didn't fix it before selling it.
@@UnspecifiedHealer its a 200$ ~ printer ... and yes to get that price down you have to use parts that are cheap and inherently you make it an inferior one .... prusa is 1000$ but they offer everything open source so you can make it yourself ... i don't find it absurd to buy a cheap printer and 3d print some upgrades for it
@@NanescuRadu1 they could setup like 4 of these machines to just make fan shrouds and have each made for less than a dollar even if they had someone staring at the machines print the whole time. The duct they use oem still costs them money and isn't free itself.
Prusa for example would be doing this, as they use their own machines to print their own machines, so it's not like they don't own the tooling to do it because they are selling the tool. Or they could have an "upgrade" option for $1 to include it, even if it's not installed just drop it in the box
@@jakegarrett8109 making a $1 dolar fan shround is the easiest one. Design, test, iterate will cost alot more ... and then ... putting it in a fixed budget ... i’m not defending them but printers for the longest time didn’t have part cooling fans and they still worked well ... you could say that about creality’s part cooling fans also .. they kinda suck on ender3v1 and cr10 and 10s
I have just got my FLSun SR. It is going to replace my old delta. Everything you say about the SR is true. It was a breeze to assemble and level the bed. The prints are really very good and I have not begun to tweak the Cura settings for this. The tools are better than the norm and the spare parts a pleasant surprise. I am very happy with it.
Interesting printer, might look into one, never owned a delta style one purely for the fact they have more parts to go wrong.
i feel like i have more failures with the ender 3 than i do on my FLSUN QQS Pro...quicker too., might need to get my hands on one of these. hopefully they fixed the crap mainboard
My first printer was a big Chinese delta and it really wasn't a big deal. I think the concerns over the fiddliness and reliability of deltas is overhyped.
more lightweight simple parts is better than less complex heavy parts. KISS.
They actually have fewer parts to go wrong, versus a Cartesian, with 3x towers that are all the same. They look complicated, but it's really the control/calibration side that's more complex -- and calibration is a problem you only have to solve once if it's a well-built printer. I think deltas get a bad rap because there are so many badly-built and worse-ly calibrated ones out there that can't do better than dumpster-quality prints.
I really like the WhamBam flexible removable bed.
...It's probably time to admit we have a fan addiction.
I still enjoyed the video though, always nice to learn more about 3D printers.
Did someone say #FanBoy??
under your recommendations, i bought the Q5, and ive been running the wheels off that thing printing D&D minis, as well as cases for my wife's insulin pump. fantastic little unit. Been using Cura to make adjustments to the print files. i was looking for a larger printer for some of the bigger models i wanted to print, 300mm+ stuff, and this looks like it might handle most of what i want to do. looks like im putting another FLSUN on my wishlist!
Replace the extruder drivers with a TMC2209 in SpreadCycle mode. So much quieter and works wonderfully. My Q5 is stored in my bedroom, printing while we sleep.
and what about the hotend fan?
@@Tintop I left it stock, but wired it into a mosfet connection (think HE1) and set it to auto in Marlin firmware. At least it only turns on when temp is above 50°C.
I did switch out the part cooling fan for a 5015 blower fan instead.
The finish on the new model looks fantastic. None of those heavy lines on the other model.
If your getting pauses and blobs on small prints, disable power loss recovery by adding it to your starting gcode in cura. On small prints because of the print size and speeds, the printer has to pause to save the code
What's the gcode and where (line ) do u insert it thank u
"because I like Deltas"
This may actually be my favorite part about upgrading or OCing my PC. Love me some numbers changing
Buy a delta and overclock its cpu!
@@AnIdiotwithaSubaru I have recently been informed that a 'delta' is also a type of 3D Printer which is was referring to and not the deltas between the deltas.
I stand by my statement and will be water cooling my 3d printer tonight!
I got excited cuz I thought this was gonna be a new fan show down. Lol all good love all your vids man! 💜🍻
You actually missed quite a few things during your review. So, first, their major marketing claim is that the SR is extremely fast compared to their other models or cartesian printers - I think they claim that it can do 150mm/s no problem and can even go faster than that. Would have been cool to see if that worked out or not. Also did you notice the blobs on the Benchy from the Q5? That's an issue with Cura 4.8 (they did something with the resolution setting) - on the Q5 (and many other printers) you have to increase the maximum resolution to fix that issue (my value is 4, btw). The likely cause is apparently slow processing of the board/firmware from what I understand and mini stoppages during the print due to that. The SR didn't have those blobs with the same gcode - at least from what I saw in that video, so this issue seems to be fixed, so they improved the board and/or the firmware performance.
hey could you explain a bit more the resolution? my ender 3 pro is doing the same and I've been thinking about replacing everything i can since it used to print pretty smooth without deformation on the layer outside walls. I'll try changing my maximum resolution to 4mm on cura and see if anything changes. thanks!
@@gordodefuego I think it's something to do with how Cura calculates curvatures. Anyway, apparently the old versions were actually bugged and the resolution was actually higher than what you entered. And even with such a high value as 4mm I couldn't make out a quality difference between Cura 4.7 and 4.8. But I think only the Cura devs know what exactly the max resolution setting entails.
Hi, oh that's something I noticed with my Q5 since the 4.8 update. So my maximum resolution is currently 0.5mm. Should it be 0.4 or 4mm? Not sure if that was a typo.
@@SixplusonemediaAu 4mm, it is. Seems that 4.9.1 handles it better, though. Right now I'm back to 0.5 on an 0.2mm nozzle with 0.6mm layer height.
The problem with this video is that I bought the q5 and I love it. Now 8 months later, I'm thinking about buying the SR. One thing that I think it a huge advantage other than the items listed in this video is that because it uses linear rails instead of the 2020, there is nothing on the outside of the legs. It is going to be simple to make an enclosure for it to print ABS. I had hoped all of the electronics/motors were in the base, but I can make a cover to keep the chamber heat from escaping into the top and cooking the control board.
Apparently the price went up. I am on the FLSun website, and they now list the Super Racer for $489.
That freight has changed.
They were listing at 2 prices. 489 is for much quicker delivery.
Maybe you could 3D print a standard ATX case now cus it's got the height clearance
I got put off FLSUN after I got the qq-s Pro. After the lousy customer service, around 300 failed prints, 6 months of trying everything recommended by the FB group, and swaping to marlin fw, I broke it down for parts. Now I'm running a Ender 6,
Thank You for this review, this looks like a perfect 1st printer
its a new machine, therefore it isn't perfect for a first. Buy something a lot of people have so you can fix issues
Very happy to see you take a look at this printer as well! I bought the Q5 based on watching your videos (now modded with silent fans, filament holder and more). The FLSUN SR looks very tempting as a second / upgrade, especially with the advertised default print speed of 150mm/s and larger bed area. Curious to see how it performs!
Yea, with a name like Super Racer I'd have thought something would have been said about the print speed relative to the Q5.
@@blahorgaslisk7763 It's almost triple the speed.
@@ProjectorGames I'd have to see it to believe it when it comes to backwards specs like that, as smaller = lighter typically for Delta. That stat might be like the machines at work they were having to run slower than a snail at 20mm/s (I print small gears at 120mm/s and the size parts they did I'd be running 200mm/s on my knock off cheap DIY reprap), but they advertised at impossible speeds for the $6k printer and it printed like $hit even at slow speeds. The smaller it is the less mass (especially on a Delta), so the smaller the finer detail and higher speeds you should be able to attain. This is also partly true for bed slingers but I've yet to find that real limit since I can just wire a second motor on mine very easily if 150+ mm/s becomes a problem but it hasn't even when I have tall 500 gram parts shaking back and forth at stupid high acceleration it just seems to work on my machine
One of the ones at work is a coreXY, so that thing should be doing like 300+ mm/s but they were stupid and made it a duel extruder like idiots (Airwolf sucks), so it could only print half as fast, then on top of that they are direct drive instead of bowden so divide that by 3 again so that's how you end up taking a 300 mm/s capable machine down to a turtle speed of 50mm/s theoretical napkin math and it turns out that's pretty accurate because I was able to tune them faster but only for large parts because I had to have them accelerate so slow...
@@ProjectorGames According to their claims or have you tested it?
@@petercallison5765 ...according to, you know, the Cura Profile FLSUN have been showing? And the videos. Screenshots. They're claiming 150mm/s as opposed to the Q5's 60mm/s. There's literally zero reason to doubt this, but you seem... skeptical?
as someone who bought the FLsun Q5 after watching your video.. GOD FUCKING DAMN IT! MUCH WANT!
Maybe you should look at a CoreXY style printer, or possibly get an Ender 3 for heavy modding to make into a CoreXY. Supposedly they have most of the benefits of Delta's ability to use all three steppers for any and all movement, while maintaining the ability to use a heavier print head, and a small enough mechanical footprint to scale in print space way more efficiently.
I have an Ender 3 Pro, and when I get the spare cash I'm definitely planning to rebuild it with a CoreXY kit down the line. I've already upgraded it with the 4.2.7 silent board and E3V2 display, along with a BLTouch, and a decent amount of repair parts to fix it up after it had a bad life under a previous owner.
I changed the driver for the q5 but with the stock firmware it was louder I think because I couldn't adjust anything.
With stock Marlin it is nearly silent with a tmc driver for the extruder stepper.
I wish they would just add the 3€ for the better driver so it is silent 😕
The spool spinning during the time lapse was therapeutic for me.
A better comparison would've been with the exact same filament, humidity alone in filament can change the quality of a print. Not to mention the loads of other variables in filaments and their manufacturing.
Answered all my questions. 🤘
i just bought the FLSun Q5 as my first 3d printer. I have never done any CAD, or anything similar to 3D printing so we'll see in how it goes in 2 weeks after it ships. *fingers crossed
$399 is a steal for a delta that makes so many design choices right -- especially linear bearings and sprung ball-cup CF arms -- and takes so much of the construction and calibration burden off the end user. I hope it proves reliable and takes off!
Really enjoying all the videos. Thanks.
Nice, cant wait to receive mine too. But until then, would be nice to see how fast it can print a benchy, should be capabale of twice the speed of Q5, at stock settings, so around 7 min maybe 😁
Who buys a super fast printer and does not test the speed - very disappointing.
if you are still interested in doing cooling experiments I've had a pretty neat idea (might be kinda hard idk). Could you set up a large water cooling reservoir and get a ice machine, like from a freezer or something, to constantly deposit ice into the reservoir? there would have to be some sort of excess water run off, but Im mostly just curious if it would be worth the pain to have ice cold water going through the system
can't wait for the review!!
Slightly smaller anycubic predator that is still in production? I'm sold
My Q5 is awesome. However, that fan running constantly is a bit annoying. Still, it's an amazing little budget printer.
One thing:
This is a fixed bed printer. You have to level and Z0 the hot (your printing temps) machine.
Another thing: The QQ-S already has the better hotend.
What really improved much are bearings, rods, mainboard, firmware and drivers.
Which one has improved bearings and stuff?
Nice video first time watching and layer lag with sr Also would you be willing to share any slizer tips .Oh last ? Can you adjust e steps through interface ? Thank you for your time
You are welcome for the cooling duct Major! :-) you might like the marlin firmware upgrade too - its changed this q5- oh don't forget about the nozzle .. the stock nozzle sucks so get this one - Genuine E3D V6 Extra Nozzle - 1.75mm x 0.40mm (V6-NOZZLE-175-400)
cool !! I've been saying for 7 years that "DELTA IS KING." I've probably saved over 1000 parts with the included spatula, caz the build plate does NOT move ! Plus U can put stuff on the build plate. Fans , supports, etc. Yes, for real, I have impromptu put random objects as supports for really tall parts and all kinds of weird stuff. For a challenge try printing a 200m tall hexagon which is 10mm wide.
I remember a video where you were worried about an aluminum radiator and copper water block because of galvanic corrosion. You should treat the radiator interior with alodine 1201 to neutralize it.
I think you need to replace that nozzle on the q5, bet it will print much better. Those nozzles should get replaced frequently to maintain print quality.
I wish you tested tolerances and also used non glitter non shiny generic grey/black filament to show flaws better
The question is at twice the price is it twice the printer or are you better off buying two of the smaller ones?
Unless you want to glue two halves together then it's not as comparable. If you only print small things where speed with multiple parts is more important then obviously the 2 cheaper printers would win (assuming the surface finish is not critical, though I'm surprised because usually the smaller printers are better for that but in this case at those settings the large one somehow won).
My rule of thumb: if you don't need the large print volume get the smaller one, because at the same or lower price you'll get either faster printing or higher quality prints, or often both.
speed test please!
they claim 100-200mm/s. What I really want to see is how much faster it can print than the q5 (or prusa), and still keep the same print quality.
I actually bought a Q5 on your suggestion and I like it a lot (not the duct of course but that was a pretty early print fix.)
Good video, but you didn't talk about its most prominent feature...the printing speed.
that "coating" on bed is Anycubic Ultrabase.
Nice video.
To the point, and interesting.
Personally I like my coreXY printers, never having owned a delta.
It will be intesting to own 1 someday just to compare to my to Ender 3 printers.
The build volume is just below my Ender 3 Max I got 3 weeks ago.
I still waiting for the next episode of my favorite series on youtube
Interface? Me too!
The website wont let me purchase any of the printers on the website. Great job FLSun no one can complain or praise the product if they cant buy one.
It is surprisingly better to use a feeler gauge than a piece of paper for Zero
I also started with the Tevo Tornado. Still running. I am curious to the comparison of print time between the boats. For me, time is the biggest investment. Please share the time to print.
Get some quieter stepper drivers (tmc 2208 or tmc2209) then get noctua fans for the printer power supply included. The printer should be really quiet to the point you'll check and see if it's running or not
Also if the fans are radial fans get sunon 5015 maglev fans. They are super quiet
What’s this background music you played throughout the episode? Also never been too interesting in getting a 3D printer but with all your content I think I’m getting there. Good job as usual 🤙!
That looks so much better than the original QQ-S! That machine was crap!! Hopefully it has a solid board in it. Bummer manufacturers are dragging their feet implementing spring steel build plates.
Very nice! I'm considering getting a 3D Printer to make little things like rear I/O shields and fan shrouds so these seem like great options. Thanks for the great videos!
Amazing printer ! Can’t wait to receive mine
Looks like your Q5 also has this annoying behaviour of just coming back down after homing. Nice.
Change the Start / Stop printer gcode under the printer settings in your slicer, that solved the issue for me.
Funny you said that it just started, I probably need to do some maintenance
@@CarterD93 What did you change and could you post your start/Stop Code, please 😅
@@matthiasgibkes7829 In my cura profile, I change the stop code for the printer to:
M107 T0
M104 S0
M104 S0 T1
M140 S0
G92 E0
G91
G1 E-1 F300
G1 Z+0.5 E-5 X-20 Y-20 F9000
G28 X0 Y0
G90 ;absolute positioning
If you use Repetier to send / control the printer, you can also add it to the stop code or just enable 'go to home position after stop / kill' in the printer settings
It's also worth checking your belts as well, just to be sure they aren't loose.
Wera sponsor my guy over here!
Wera listin to this dude would ya
@@MajorHardware I have a set now in every size, just came last week. freaking great thing to have.
Get on it Wera
That dragon is still awesome 👏
I'm so jealous. I bought a QQS pro about a year ago and have had a good time with it, but I would really like to have the SR
Hey, I was thinking about buying this printer but want to know if its easy to switch out nozzles and what nozzles do fit on it?
Actually the printroom is like a cone, so my Q5 scratches etc. so I would say 190mm hight is more realistic. On the SR it will be similar.
How hard is this to get into? For someone with no 3D modelling software experience.
A small learning curve at the start but way easier than you think
Major Hardware, question using the FLSUN Super Race, can you use a 1.75 mm carbon fiber nylon in the printer or not? I ordered a FLSUN Super Racer and exciting to get it. But just wondering before I put a bunch of money out to get the Carbon fiber nylon, and it can't extrude right or mess up the printer. could you try and make a benchy with 1.75 mm Carbon Fiber Nylon in your next video of the FLSUN Super Racer?
Thank you
Word on the street is that delta has the highest return rates and that's way there aren't many options available, what are your thoughts on this?
I have sold a couple hundred printers and it not the Deltas that come back.
Great information-thank you very much ✅👍
You should get one of those HP industrial 3D printers.
Where are you going Money? Come back! Wallet loves yo-
Oh, well I guess it's not coming back then.
I wasn't a fan of my Q5. The Super Racer has many great parts, however, I'm not sure about the super speed or quality.
the buildplate is good for pla, but i jsut couldnt get my petg to stick at. i fixed it with a cheap pi buildsheet
Honestly I had no idea there was delta printers that were affordable. I always assumed they were very expensive.
"Slow is the past, fast is the fut"
True words
U should do a speed benchy run! See what it can do?
Do the FLSUN's print flexible filament? The website seems to suggest they do not.
Hi man do you use the cura version shipped with the flsun q5? Because i have a flsun q5 and my benchy doesnt have the little blobs i use cura 4.8 i use the template of the flsun qq and i just changed the size om my printer.
Nice video i realy enjoy the content 😀
nice, even a Volcano style hotend for faster prints or same speed with a bigger nozzle
Is it as big or bigger than the qqs pro im liking the rigidity of this compared to my qqs pro im going to have to get it if its not smaller than the qqs pro i like the controller its sweet
Can i use it as my first 3d priter or the risk of f it up is too high?
Starting to question legitimacy of flsun3d website. It was awkward to register and when I tried to order somebody else's address was listed as shipping. Thought I had it straightened out but other than the money they took from PayPal I have had no response.
Does this printer only print 3 different types of materials? PLA/ABS/PETG. or can it print many more like CF nylon, CF PC, wood PLA, iron PLA, ect.
What kind of filament do you recommend for the big printer?
when I printed the bolt the printer vibrated a little from touching the what was printed below, is it normal that the noozle is so close to the part while printing ?
In July, I foresee the SR in my home.
That thing is damn tall, especially with the filament on top :P I wonder if you could squeeze the filament into the void space at the top.
If it's the same layout as the Q5, the top houses the power supply, controller and stepper motors.
OK, cool time lapses are one thing, but what benefit is there to a delta over an i3? There are some pretty decent, budget i3 printers out there, not the least from Creality. I love my Prusa machines, and always recommend them, but am I missing something by not having a delta in my farm?
Print speed, but no tpu prints unless you make it direct drive, but then it's no longer fast because of the weight and you lose height.
@@MeshJedi Huh. I never see videos of delta printers going any faster than my Prusa can, but I do see all kinds of speedy Core-XY printers.
@@ggaub CoreXY is the Cartesian version of a delta.
Nice! I saw them on the Flsun site when I was buying parts for my QQ-pros. Would you know how much of a step up they would be from mine? (I'm running 5 QQ-5s) My only complaint for delta printer is you NEED to upgrade to metal core belts ASAP to save yourself any issues after 1200-1800 hours of print time.
Are you running a parts shop? Just curious if job shops runs delta printers. Still wondering if they're stable enough.
Do the SR come with all metal volcano?
What I'm always worrying is: How dimensionally accurate is a delta printer really? Because when calibration is off by even the tiniest amount - on a delta, all dimensions are crap then, not just one of the axes…
It's really no more of a concern than on a Cartesian, and auto-calibration figures it out pretty well. Calibrating a delta by hand to get perfectly sized and flat prints takes a fair bit of trial and error, but it's not really a problem on a well-built machine, and only needs to be done once anyway. Also, if calibration is off (assuming the machine is built right), it's equally off in XY, and I'd rather have my squares and circles 1% oversized and still square/round than get rectangles and ovals that are 1% too wide in one axis only :)
Good lord that thing is the size of the freaking moon.
I actuelly like the remote
Tried to purchase the SR through your link but must be having problems the order page was not responding (edit issue has been resolved order has been placed currently waiting at order has been submitted) love the content!
Hi,if you encounter any problems, you can contact the official staff of FLSUN, or leave a message on the official website of FLSUN, we will reply in time.
The new green benchy is *miles* better than the other one
I was ready to buy something else now you got me seconded guessing lol
mind you this is not a review, zero technical depth
How would the quality compare to a anycubic mega x you think?
Should I get the Q5 or the V3 SE?
Is that a prime line or just filament that fell off? I have a qq-s and I love the prime line on my ender and geeetech but haven't figured out if it's possible for a delta printer. If it is can you share your g-code?
Follow up?!
Hey, i have the Flsuh Q5. Im using Cura 4.13, but my Prints Looks Reality Bad. The Test Prints look really good but whatever i slice and print is looking horrible. What i need to change in settings ?
I am a straight up noob when it comes to 3d printing looking at getting my first printer this summer. What design software would you recommend for a novice? I am a software support engineer so pc knowledge is high but never played around with any 3d design software. Recommendations of software from the community would be appreciated. Ty.
You'll pick up Autodesk Fusion 360 in no time. Runs fine on a game PC, free hobbyist license that gets renewed every year (paid subscription E495/y and up). Enough tutorials on the tube to ease you into CAD, with the option to switch to more heavy-duty or open source alternatives later on.
@@ronnetgrazer362 thanks ron ill check it out
@@yp-lo8op I forgot to say, if you're looking to get into more decorative, ornamental or mash-up/kitbash prints then Blender might be a more logical entry point for 3D design. It lets you sculpt your models, and you can use it more like a vector drawing program, with an extra dimension. Free program, mostly free tutorials in every style and on every aspect. Less suitable for engineering type stuff, though.
I feel silly worrying about bumping my Q5 watching you toss that huge box around while printing
What do you think of the ender 3
Which slicer did you use for the SR and which profile as 4.10 cura doesn't have a profile for the SR
You can use the Flsun QQ-S profile in cura and set built dimmentions of the sr in the printer settings. Worked for me 👍