I've had an SR for about a year with regular use, and am finally modifying it. For those looking at it as a budget buy given they're about to release their new T1 / S1. - The heated bed - the glass plate comes out with 2 screws (there are three clamps, just loosen them and remove one, it slides off - also allows you to flip it over and just use smooth glass if you want a flat bottom finish) - magnetic sheets and multiple spring steel plates are available (double sided to boot) - Heat break, go all metal - doesn't have to be fancy, though I did go with the titanium / copper version for a whole $8. Even sub 250C, eventually the PTFE liner inside will degrade in the stock one. - Also heatbreak / hot end - Thermal paste or Boron Nitride if you're fancy. The hole in the heatsink is quite a bit wider than needed, BN-paste has a higher thermal conductivity than any metal, It can be used everywhere (Do note that it dries out to work, meaning it is a potting agent - requires components to be hot to disassemble, and water to remove). If that sounds like too much hassle, even copper anti-sieze can be used (7w/mk), or left over thermal paste from a pc build (usually 8-8.5w/mk). The cooler you can keep your cold side, the firmer your filament is acting as a plunger. - Nozzle - just... get a new one, the number of times I've had the capricorn tube come out of the extruder (breaking the push fitting in the process)... the stock nozzle even at 210C can't push 25mm of filament in a single go (from the 'load / extrude' page, so, at w/e speed it's doing it at). Either the extruder skips, or if it's "too tight", something is going to go wrong. - Extruder - given the above issue I've swapped to an 'omg', but I don't do flexibles on it so keeping bowden for now (saving weight on the effector). If you're going to keep the stock extruder, print a filler piece for it (disassemble the extruder and check out the bottom push fitting / what it's screwed in to. Depending on the type of fitting you get, your PTFE tube will stop ~9mm from the exit port, in a 7mm wide hole... 4 full coils of filament got bunched up in there once...) -Extruder Part Deux - Compression fittings... They taste awful, and they work. - The Effector Fans: 1) The metal housing that the fans are attached to -> The hole for the 4010 heatsink cooler covers 50% of the fan blade area, grab a file or a dremel and widen the hole. 2) Upgrade to 5015 blowers for part cooling, you'll actually be able to set them to not 100%, 100% of the time, because you'll actually be able to cool down what's needed (supports also actually come off without trouble). If you design your mount properly you can avoid loosing any print volume (basically every one I found prior to making them myself all collide with the carbon rods if you try to get near the edge of the build plate). - Light bar - just nice to have, there are ring kits but I've got a strip light on one of the three legs.
I’ve tried everything an after almost 200 hours of printing my flsun sr will stick to the bed but ends up stuck on the nozzle after 2-3 minutes of printing, do you know why this is?
@@TheMulletMafia1 I replaced my hot end with a brass one and then I could do the nozzle up tight enough to the heat break to stop it leaking out of the threads. That was my major issue after that I can reliably print. Have thousands of printing hours on it now.
I'm nitpicking here....but it drives me nuts when you say getting things from sponsors has "zero influence on the content." Bias doesn't affect us only when we let it. I appreciate this review and the info in all of your videos- they're really good and I believe you are less biased than other big UA-camrs that come to mind. It's just the phrasing that gets to me.
I used to own a Super Racer (had to sell for rent money but I'm good now). I printed a custom effector plate out of high strength material that was just as rigid as the aluminum plate it came with but was much lighter. Along with printing a custom fan/hotend housing with the same material, adding dual 5015 fans, a direct drive via the orbiter v2, and a high flow hotend (can't for the life of me remember which one). All in all I added about 15grams of weight I think, compared to the stock Super Racer effector plate and hotend full assembly. I was able to boost print speeds up to 200mm/s and accelerations up to 8500mm^3/s before I started hitting any kind of limits or quality degradation. This isn't as fast as the X1/P1 or any of the 3 newer Qidi printers, but damn did it go fast! I think my fastest benchy as per the speedbenchy rules, was around 28 minutes and change, and it still looked damn good!
Also switching to a bondtech LGX lite and revo allows you to print faster - also using orcaslicer or ideamaker seems to be a better slicer - there are flex plate kits as well for it.
Great vid Rick. I grew up on deltas and whilst I have the usual x1, k1 etc now, I still have 2 deltas ie 400 x 600 and 340 x 1000 (5 yrs old). They generally print 0.5 lh and now run clipper and do very good 8min benchies easily. Where they really excel is in tall cylindrical printing ie prototyping large hand drum shells esp now with klipper.,. Which is where delta_calibrate smashes marlin. Despite the caveats, and using flying extenders, such a simple and impacting practically free change with a bond tech, there are by far my preferred robust and long living printer
The V400 got a direct drive, so super good for flexible materials and a magnetic build plate for easy removal! Also the hot end got no problems with 250 C
Seems like an excellent printer! The problem is the price. At $350 it just doesn't make sense. Consider the Bambu Lab A1, Creality Ender 3 V3, AnyCubic Kobra, Elegoo Neptune, and Sovol SV series for example. All come in similarly priced or cheaper than this with similar or higher capabilities. Hard to recommend this printer even on sale. Add an all metal hotend, direct drive extruder, a PEI bed, Klipper, and keep it the same price. Then it would be truly fantastic. 3D printing has simply advanced too much in the last year for this to be a sensible buy.
Was a good option 3 years ago when core xy and bed slingers were still slow, but now all the vibration damping stuff is awesome for the high speed stuff
Currently at 200€ for sale here in Europe. Looking forward getting my hands on it. Tinkering it with some miner updates into a well rounded exotic tipe of makerbot🤩
I have the one before this model, The QQ-S Pro. Mine make this one look small. My print area is 365 mm tall by 265 mm wide. I have added a round gold PEI metal flex sheet cover with the powerful magnet below it. the printer already had a Titan extruder so I have no problems doing TPU even though my bowden tube is longer then yours. So yes flexible's are able to be printed no worries. The spool holder you said about is the same on mine as standard, although I've not had problems with mine even though I use many types of spool. The cupboard spools run smoothly on my holder in fact they seem to run better than the plastic types? My printer running noises, cooling fans etc. is a little noisy but compared to my other printers it is no as loud as them, and when it prints the main board bleeps lightly like R2 D2. i have the printer up on a worktop on a store cupboard on the floor and the worktop is 3 feet high so with the 8 foot ceiling above I still got about 2 feet clear so loading the spools is a arm long reach but fine. The speeds of my printer is what is a pain the max I got safely to do is 60 mm/s maybe when I get my ordered Klipper pad 7 from BTT then I see what speeds it do then? I may well upgrade the V6 Hot End to a Volcano one but there is no sister board for the head so I would need to either run the wires of the thermistor and heater all the way down to the base or try to do a sister board with the white plugs above the head to plug the heating and thermistor ones there? And FLSUN helped me soon after I had the printer as the power plug unit in the base went wrong, they sent a new one fast and it was in easy once I checked the wiring! And to think there is a huge version of mine with klipper installed already the "V400" makes mine look medium high.
If you want to remove the print quickly just put some drops of water along the edges of the print using a pipette, the bed in the area of the print cools and you can remove the print after a couple of minutes.
RIcky, good work as always! I've had my SR for over a year now, and have a couple of observations (at least about the one I have). I haven't done any mods to the printer, it's factory. 1. Occasionally, during the beginning of a print, one of the effector arms pops off. This causes the printer to make a hideous loud grinding noise as it tries to move where it can't. The only cure is to power off, put the arm back on, and start over. 2. The run-out sensor is no good. I bought some apparently crappy PLA that wants to break occasionally. When that happens, the SR doesn't stop for me to fix it, it happily continues on, printing nothing. With regards to the bed, I did get a magnetic PEI setup and use that with the SR.
I have modified it with a orbit direct extruder and magnet bed. It helped it to be a pretty decent machine. Are very interested to see the new models from Flsun.
I managed to get my FLSUN SR for really cheap. I am not sure if it was direct from FLSUN or an Amazon Warehouse deal. I have replaced the spool holder, with an adaptive roller spool holder by SUNLU. So I can use 1 to 5kg filament rolls. It is just attached via Command Strips. Another upgrade is replacing the bowden tube with a Capricorn tube. And the extruder is upgraded to an all metal OMGV2S F1 extruder. I have not done anything with the bed, though there are some options for upgrading. And I have not upgraded to an FLSUN Klipper Pad. It is a possible upgrade to look at.
Klipper is just an open source translation of gcode to mechanical movement, could run on any machine. I believe a good example of fast prints without Klipper might be Bambulabs. I say that as an assumption because of Arc gcode support, until their encryption is cracked we won’t know for sure, but I believe it would be easier for them to have a custom marlin firmware than custom Klipper firmware with arc welding support. But I believe Bambulabs is still claiming they have completely custom in house firmware. Time will tell.
Great video. I love my delta, it's just fascinating to watch while it's printing. I'm still running an old school Anycubic Linier Kossel. Have a chat with FL Sun and see if you can blag the V400 for review. I'ts a bit bigger but it runs Klipper and has a flying direct drive head so you can print flexibles.
Great video as always fella, i got a q5 a few years ago, and i definitely agree with you about the glass bed being a pain waiting for it to cool, i've ordered a removable PEI sheet for my Q5 not sure if there is one for the super racer. I bought the beagle camera off the strength of your review its absolutely superb :D
i have a earlier FLsun delta printer that was a kit made with 2020 extrusions, I could never get it to make accurate parts size wise.. never put the time into it because i cant wrap my head around the way it calculates how to move the hot end around.. lol, still have it , its just a conversations starter at this point and all of my print farm are Cartesian printers.. I get them, x is x, z is z, and y is y.. lol
FLSun T1 is now the better option. It would be interesting to see review on it. According to stats it is faster and it has PEI bed surface. I wonder if it is removable now.
You can also install Marlin 2.1. 2.1 with Input Shaping, Linear Advance on your actual printer, the old bed slinger can do 100-150 stock or at least with a CHT nozzle. For the price of a SR you can buy 4 and print 4 pieces at the same time, immagine how many parts you can print in one night. Yet don't bother: install klipper on an old laptop or a rpi: it's way easier to build, configure and calibrate. You know you can't print PETg faster than 100-150, flexible even slower and I don't want to spend 34e for 1KG of hi-speed PLA when I can pay 12e for good PLA+
WOOW! Tell me why my sons Prusa mini+ used to print just like my Ender 3 and I recently downloaded from the Prusa site and installed upgraded firmware for my sons Mini+ and it now runs like a MK4 it is fast! It blows mine away. Someone explain this to me cause the firmware says "Marlin", when it boots up.
For modern delta printers it's not enough anymore to print just layer-by-layer 2D pancakes. They must have 2 more motors to turn nozzle at any angle, giving unique ability to print complex things.
I wanted to love my Super racer but it had so many issues that it sits now unused in the corner despite beeing fixed. I needed a new nozzle because the too small heatingblock didnt work very well with their nozzles, different cooling fan ducts, a new extruder and most annoying i needed to print completly new feets because the original one were so small and placed so far in the printer thats they caused the printer to shake massivly when printing a larger print. Overall it was a very disappointing printer. I wonder if they fixed the most issues now.
@@RickyImpey I can see that the hotend design is now very different to the one on my super racer. No 1 to 1,5 cm gap between nozzle tip and heatblock anymore. Glad they fixed that. Deltas are way to cool.
its crazy cause im still on my ender 3 v2 and s1 pro lol all i have been doing it upgrading them with guide rails and stuff and im still loving them... bought a bambu labs and sent that shit right back lol next i will try a klipper upgrade with the creality klipper thing and see if i can get better speed but for me im good with what i have.. got my ender 3 v2 printing 112mm which is fine for me
I've had an SR for about a year with regular use, and am finally modifying it. For those looking at it as a budget buy given they're about to release their new T1 / S1.
- The heated bed - the glass plate comes out with 2 screws (there are three clamps, just loosen them and remove one, it slides off - also allows you to flip it over and just use smooth glass if you want a flat bottom finish) - magnetic sheets and multiple spring steel plates are available (double sided to boot)
- Heat break, go all metal - doesn't have to be fancy, though I did go with the titanium / copper version for a whole $8. Even sub 250C, eventually the PTFE liner inside will degrade in the stock one.
- Also heatbreak / hot end - Thermal paste or Boron Nitride if you're fancy. The hole in the heatsink is quite a bit wider than needed, BN-paste has a higher thermal conductivity than any metal, It can be used everywhere (Do note that it dries out to work, meaning it is a potting agent - requires components to be hot to disassemble, and water to remove). If that sounds like too much hassle, even copper anti-sieze can be used (7w/mk), or left over thermal paste from a pc build (usually 8-8.5w/mk). The cooler you can keep your cold side, the firmer your filament is acting as a plunger.
- Nozzle - just... get a new one, the number of times I've had the capricorn tube come out of the extruder (breaking the push fitting in the process)... the stock nozzle even at 210C can't push 25mm of filament in a single go (from the 'load / extrude' page, so, at w/e speed it's doing it at). Either the extruder skips, or if it's "too tight", something is going to go wrong.
- Extruder - given the above issue I've swapped to an 'omg', but I don't do flexibles on it so keeping bowden for now (saving weight on the effector). If you're going to keep the stock extruder, print a filler piece for it (disassemble the extruder and check out the bottom push fitting / what it's screwed in to. Depending on the type of fitting you get, your PTFE tube will stop ~9mm from the exit port, in a 7mm wide hole... 4 full coils of filament got bunched up in there once...)
-Extruder Part Deux - Compression fittings... They taste awful, and they work.
- The Effector Fans: 1) The metal housing that the fans are attached to -> The hole for the 4010 heatsink cooler covers 50% of the fan blade area, grab a file or a dremel and widen the hole.
2) Upgrade to 5015 blowers for part cooling, you'll actually be able to set them to not 100%, 100% of the time, because you'll actually be able to cool down what's needed (supports also actually come off without trouble). If you design your mount properly you can avoid loosing any print volume (basically every one I found prior to making them myself all collide with the carbon rods if you try to get near the edge of the build plate).
- Light bar - just nice to have, there are ring kits but I've got a strip light on one of the three legs.
I’ve tried everything an after almost 200 hours of printing my flsun sr will stick to the bed but ends up stuck on the nozzle after 2-3 minutes of printing, do you know why this is?
@@TheMulletMafia1 I replaced my hot end with a brass one and then I could do the nozzle up tight enough to the heat break to stop it leaking out of the threads. That was my major issue after that I can reliably print. Have thousands of printing hours on it now.
@@Kalicdire where did you buy the brass hotend?
I'm nitpicking here....but it drives me nuts when you say getting things from sponsors has "zero influence on the content." Bias doesn't affect us only when we let it. I appreciate this review and the info in all of your videos- they're really good and I believe you are less biased than other big UA-camrs that come to mind. It's just the phrasing that gets to me.
I used to own a Super Racer (had to sell for rent money but I'm good now). I printed a custom effector plate out of high strength material that was just as rigid as the aluminum plate it came with but was much lighter. Along with printing a custom fan/hotend housing with the same material, adding dual 5015 fans, a direct drive via the orbiter v2, and a high flow hotend (can't for the life of me remember which one). All in all I added about 15grams of weight I think, compared to the stock Super Racer effector plate and hotend full assembly. I was able to boost print speeds up to 200mm/s and accelerations up to 8500mm^3/s before I started hitting any kind of limits or quality degradation. This isn't as fast as the X1/P1 or any of the 3 newer Qidi printers, but damn did it go fast! I think my fastest benchy as per the speedbenchy rules, was around 28 minutes and change, and it still looked damn good!
Also switching to a bondtech LGX lite and revo allows you to print faster - also using orcaslicer or ideamaker seems to be a better slicer - there are flex plate kits as well for it.
Great vid Rick. I grew up on deltas and whilst I have the usual x1, k1 etc now, I still have 2 deltas ie 400 x 600 and 340 x 1000 (5 yrs old). They generally print 0.5 lh and now run clipper and do very good 8min benchies easily. Where they really excel is in tall cylindrical printing ie prototyping large hand drum shells esp now with klipper.,. Which is where delta_calibrate smashes marlin. Despite the caveats, and using flying extenders, such a simple and impacting practically free change with a bond tech, there are by far my preferred robust and long living printer
I've done 1000's of hours on my SR, I can print any material.. Direct drive, and then I printed an enclosure ;-) It's a "super" printer!!!
The V400 got a direct drive, so super good for flexible materials and a magnetic build plate for easy removal! Also the hot end got no problems with 250 C
Seems like an excellent printer! The problem is the price. At $350 it just doesn't make sense. Consider the Bambu Lab A1, Creality Ender 3 V3, AnyCubic Kobra, Elegoo Neptune, and Sovol SV series for example. All come in similarly priced or cheaper than this with similar or higher capabilities. Hard to recommend this printer even on sale. Add an all metal hotend, direct drive extruder, a PEI bed, Klipper, and keep it the same price. Then it would be truly fantastic. 3D printing has simply advanced too much in the last year for this to be a sensible buy.
Fair points
@@RickyImpey No knock on your video BTW I really enjoyed it and agree with your assessment. Just saying the value proposition is the only issue.
Was a good option 3 years ago when core xy and bed slingers were still slow, but now all the vibration damping stuff is awesome for the high speed stuff
Currently at 200€ for sale here in Europe. Looking forward getting my hands on it. Tinkering it with some miner updates into a well rounded exotic tipe of makerbot🤩
I have the one before this model, The QQ-S Pro. Mine make this one look small. My print area is 365 mm tall by 265 mm wide.
I have added a round gold PEI metal flex sheet cover with the powerful magnet below it. the printer already had a
Titan extruder so I have no problems doing TPU even though my bowden tube is longer then yours.
So yes flexible's are able to be printed no worries. The spool holder you said about is the same on mine as standard, although I've not had problems with mine even though I use many types of spool. The cupboard spools run smoothly on my holder in fact they seem to run better than the plastic types?
My printer running noises, cooling fans etc. is a little noisy but compared to my other printers it is no as loud as them, and when it prints the main board bleeps lightly like R2 D2.
i have the printer up on a worktop on a store cupboard on the floor and the worktop is 3 feet high so with the 8 foot ceiling above I still got about 2 feet clear so loading the spools is a arm long reach but fine. The speeds of my printer is what is a pain the max I got safely to do is 60 mm/s maybe when I get my ordered Klipper pad 7 from BTT then I see what speeds it do then?
I may well upgrade the V6 Hot End to a Volcano one but there is no sister board for the head so I would need to either run the wires of the thermistor and heater all the way down to the base or try to do a sister board with the white plugs above the head to plug the heating and thermistor ones there?
And FLSUN helped me soon after I had the printer as the power plug unit in the base went wrong, they sent a new one fast and it was in easy once I checked the wiring!
And to think there is a huge version of mine with klipper installed already the "V400" makes mine look medium high.
Oh my, i am soo torn on getting this or an ender 3v3! This thing is soo cool
V400 has direct drive, goes faster, has a larger volume... But does run Klipper😅
If you want to remove the print quickly just put some drops of water along the edges of the print using a pipette, the bed in the area of the print cools and you can remove the print after a couple of minutes.
Ooh, that's a good idea 👍
RIcky, good work as always! I've had my SR for over a year now, and have a couple of observations (at least about the one I have). I haven't done any mods to the printer, it's factory. 1. Occasionally, during the beginning of a print, one of the effector arms pops off. This causes the printer to make a hideous loud grinding noise as it tries to move where it can't. The only cure is to power off, put the arm back on, and start over. 2. The run-out sensor is no good. I bought some apparently crappy PLA that wants to break occasionally. When that happens, the SR doesn't stop for me to fix it, it happily continues on, printing nothing. With regards to the bed, I did get a magnetic PEI setup and use that with the SR.
I have modified it with a orbit direct extruder and magnet bed. It helped it to be a pretty decent machine. Are very interested to see the new models from Flsun.
My Flsun Q5 prints TPU well. Haven't had a single issue in 3 years. And I like to print TPU fast 60mm/s.
The Anycubic Kobra2 is super fast also and cost me $210 with free shipping in the US. It is a Marlin printer, no Klipper.
I managed to get my FLSUN SR for really cheap. I am not sure if it was direct from FLSUN or an Amazon Warehouse deal. I have replaced the spool holder, with an adaptive roller spool holder by SUNLU. So I can use 1 to 5kg filament rolls. It is just attached via Command Strips. Another upgrade is replacing the bowden tube with a Capricorn tube. And the extruder is upgraded to an all metal OMGV2S F1 extruder.
I have not done anything with the bed, though there are some options for upgrading. And I have not upgraded to an FLSUN Klipper Pad. It is a possible upgrade to look at.
RE- The accidental hole , you can grab a hot solder iron and some filament and melt it into the hole, job done
Klipper is just an open source translation of gcode to mechanical movement, could run on any machine. I believe a good example of fast prints without Klipper might be Bambulabs. I say that as an assumption because of Arc gcode support, until their encryption is cracked we won’t know for sure, but I believe it would be easier for them to have a custom marlin firmware than custom Klipper firmware with arc welding support. But I believe Bambulabs is still claiming they have completely custom in house firmware. Time will tell.
Great video. I love my delta, it's just fascinating to watch while it's printing. I'm still running an old school Anycubic Linier Kossel. Have a chat with FL Sun and see if you can blag the V400 for review. I'ts a bit bigger but it runs Klipper and has a flying direct drive head so you can print flexibles.
Oh yes, the V400 looks like they fixed all of the things I didn't like about the SR!
FYI Ricky, Creality includes a REAL wrench for holding the hot end while changing nozzles on the k1 max.
Great video as always fella, i got a q5 a few years ago, and i definitely agree with you about the glass bed being a pain waiting for it to cool, i've ordered a removable PEI sheet for my Q5 not sure if there is one for the super racer. I bought the beagle camera off the strength of your review its absolutely superb :D
love to see a video where u install and test klipper
i have a earlier FLsun delta printer that was a kit made with 2020 extrusions, I could never get it to make accurate parts size wise.. never put the time into it because i cant wrap my head around the way it calculates how to move the hot end around.. lol, still have it , its just a conversations starter at this point and all of my print farm are Cartesian printers.. I get them, x is x, z is z, and y is y.. lol
FLSun T1 is now the better option. It would be interesting to see review on it.
According to stats it is faster and it has PEI bed surface. I wonder if it is removable now.
You can also install Marlin 2.1. 2.1 with Input Shaping, Linear Advance on your actual printer, the old bed slinger can do 100-150 stock or at least with a CHT nozzle. For the price of a SR you can buy 4 and print 4 pieces at the same time, immagine how many parts you can print in one night. Yet don't bother: install klipper on an old laptop or a rpi: it's way easier to build, configure and calibrate.
You know you can't print PETg faster than 100-150, flexible even slower and I don't want to spend 34e for 1KG of hi-speed PLA when I can pay 12e for good PLA+
Look at FLSUN S1 and T1
WOOW! Tell me why my sons Prusa mini+ used to print just like my Ender 3 and I recently downloaded from the Prusa site and installed upgraded firmware for my sons Mini+ and it now runs like a MK4 it is fast! It blows mine away. Someone explain this to me cause the firmware says "Marlin", when it boots up.
For modern delta printers it's not enough anymore to print just layer-by-layer 2D pancakes. They must have 2 more motors to turn nozzle at any angle, giving unique ability to print complex things.
I wanted to love my Super racer but it had so many issues that it sits now unused in the corner despite beeing fixed.
I needed a new nozzle because the too small heatingblock didnt work very well with their nozzles,
different cooling fan ducts,
a new extruder
and most annoying i needed to print completly new feets because the original one were so small and placed so far in the printer thats they caused the printer to shake massivly when printing a larger print.
Overall it was a very disappointing printer. I wonder if they fixed the most issues now.
I'm sure they must have changed all of these things as I didn't find any of these issues myself.
@@RickyImpey I can see that the hotend design is now very different to the one on my super racer. No 1 to 1,5 cm gap between nozzle tip and heatblock anymore. Glad they fixed that. Deltas are way to cool.
its crazy cause im still on my ender 3 v2 and s1 pro lol all i have been doing it upgrading them with guide rails and stuff and im still loving them... bought a bambu labs and sent that shit right back lol next i will try a klipper upgrade with the creality klipper thing and see if i can get better speed but for me im good with what i have.. got my ender 3 v2 printing 112mm which is fine for me
😂Yeah sure ya did. Copium.
@@PLr1c3r thats all true!!! i got emails and all to back it up...
Si agregas la Sonic pad puede ser mejor calidad y precisión y velocidad
But doesn't this printer have Klipper pre-installed?
Not this one, the V400 does
@@RickyImpey Ah. Thanks for clarifying. I hope they send you the V400 as you're one of the trusted reviewers.
You sound a bit like Allen Milliard.
Delta's are a conundrum The more simplistic design with more difficut actuation
They did send me a 600$ printer for free that i can keep, but they did not pay me so its an honest review WHAAHAHAHA..
is showing its age 40 mins for a benchy