@@jon9947 From their About Us page, "We are a 3d printing company located in Southern California running 150 machine print farm that exclusively uses VOXELPLA. We created VOXELPLA to solve our issues with sourcing reliable and affordable filament; throughout the years, we have tested countless filament brands, but none offered the reliability that we needed at an affordable price, so we had to create our own."
@@jon9947 Hello Jon, our filament is produced overseas, but we maintain tight control of the production and run it in our print farm to ensure the best quality and reliability. If there is a problem, we will know about it first before any problematic units get out to the world.
@@voxelpla4457 Thanks, I think I'll pass. I can buy high quality China made PLA on Amazon for cheaper. If it was actually made in the USA I would buy from you, I enjoy supporting local business.
@@1trickpwny Thats all marketing BS, I asked it the way I asked it because there is a big difference between being a US company and a US producer. I am all for making money, but the only thing Voxel is doing is slapping their label on another brand and marketing it. Its not actually made in the US, and if I am buying imported filament then I would rather save a dollar and cut out the middle man. I am sure it is good PLA, it is very hard to make bad PLA.
I just got my V400, and I must say, it's great that someone finally made a serious, no compromises, delta! The delta is really a great platform, but it really requires a first rate effort to be made for it to shine, and not to be a nightmare.
Great video. Couple things. 1. Bed size: 300mm diameter circle would equate to 212x212mm square (fit inside the circle) Plus the obvious extra domes on each side of the square. 2. I really love that they have the lights built into the head. I feel like if we put some basic diffusers on them it would more easily spread out the light and have less triangular glare spots.
Regarding scraping and infill type, all self-intersecting infill patterns scrape because the slicers don't compensate for the crossings. Gyroid avoids that. Some other patterns avoid it too but AFAIK gyroid is the only one of them that's strong in all directions.
May I tell you a secret: you are printing the infill too fast if that happens . You are exceeding the maximum flow of the hotend. You don't believe? Well, you can try it slow for once, right? ^^ You're welcome 😉
Great video. FL SUN has seriously changed the game with this! Hope to have the funds to get one of these machines down the road to accompany my Super Racer!
😅 I guess we will see if I'm classified as an absolute giant 😉 can't wait to buy my own V400!! Love my super racer and I am such a fan girl of my first delta printer that has blown away my other Ender printer by leaps and bounds!! Thanks for this review 👍
Thank you for the heads up on Voxel PLA filament. Just placed an order for 3 rolls. If it good for me I will tell all my printing friends about it. Great price and free shipping over 2 rolls.
Buyers, beware, do not buy into the hype and free printers that are given to reviewers. I can tell you you will be lucky to get your order the way most customers have to order in one to two months with tons of excuses. Not the type of company I would want to do business with, and if you did I could imagine the type of support you would get and time delays.
This will be my next 3d printer. Easy to initially get running with plenty of tinkering potential, the voron 2.4 is looking pretty outdated (especially for the price) at this point.
Looking fantastic. Like some others have said, I feel like it needs to be enclosed. Or at least have the option to buy an enclosure or something. Having a direct drive all metal hot end is fantastic, but it's main purpose would be for use with alternate materials. I'd love to buy one, just not sure I'd get the use out of it just yet with my 9 other printers. The speed is great, though I may settle with the SR as the V400 doesn't come back in stock in the UK until October! Great review!
5:20. This only took me three minutes. I cut off a piece of PLA that was just over twice as long as the length of the channels (so I could double it over). The USB / power cable has a cable capture on it, to keep them bound together. I just ran my PLA between the power and USB cable (just behind the cable capture), then taped the two ends of the PLA together, fed the taped end down the channel, and pulled the cable through. Easy peasy. (PLA is MUCH better choice than Ninja flex, because you don't want your fish to flex and bind in the channel.)
mine finally showed up. Fishing the cables through the upright was pretty easy for me. I kept the printer on its side with the leg needing the cables resting on the table. Then I pushed it through. This way gravity would not work against me.
@@damien2198 Because ABS is an amorph material and PC and Nylon semi crystal iirc, then cooling to fast they shrink due to stress. Which can result in warping, poor layer adhesion/bonding and delamination.
Latest Cura (as well as 4.3 I believe) has a Profile comparison plugin from the Market Place. It is called "Profil Analyser 1.2.1 by Saxes" ( their spelling not mine ). Klipper seems to be gaining ground and popularity. Nice review.
I remember a few years ago when I mentioned the flsun qq-s pro and you said "most people use enders type printers so you wouldn't be looking at deltas. How things have changed…
About dragging sound, it appears when you are using grid infill, we have lines on one direction and then on same height lines in other direction (nozzle touch previous lines). Gyroid is good to avoid this, but I like to use ZIG-ZAG infill (more stright lines). There are no line crossings on same layer. (experience from FLSUN SR). To understand this better, analyze one layer printing in Cura preview. (delta don't have that stright plane movement in XY direction as cartasians or corexy)
For the screen positioning problem I have an idea, they sell apple MagSafe magnets that you could stick in the back of the monitor and print a base and also add the magnets to it. Then you have a MagSafe display
That sounds believe it or not is actually the stepper motors at certain speeds. The one that sounds like it's grinding on the print. If it was actually grinding that hard it would yank the print. Gyroid just changes the actual speed that the motors can move so kinda knocks the sound out
Whatever an adoo is... I had a tevo little monster. It's been down and needs a new board and I decided to order the v400 as a better investment. (Everyone hated it but it was good even if tevo sucked back when it came out.) I'm excited for the klipper since ive been marlin based for years. Thanks for the video!
I think using the old slicers that come with printers is just a bad idea. A) Maybe I'm wrong, but the first thing I do when I get a new printer is make sure I have the latest version of my preferred slicer and then look for built-in profiles or profiles on the manufacturers website. B) using known old software with known bugs that have probably been fixed already. I see the slicer they come with as a bare minimum effort for people who don't have decent or constant internet access to be able to use the printer immediately until they can get a proper, up-to-date slicer.
Could you do a comparison between the v400 and Bambu p1p? In many markets the v400 is hovering near the $750 range so they're definitely cost rivals and being two of the fastest printers on the market, would be interesting to see actual prints from both.
It’s funny cause I was able to just push the whole cable through the Y axis extrusion on its own without needing any string to pull it. Took me all of 20 seconds lol
How does it compare against the Bambu Labs X1 Carbon? Size, speed, special materials (read: enclosure) and just ease-of-use? Sure, one is core-xy and the other delta, but both of these seem like speed-demons that don't require much (or any) tinkering and seem similarly priced, so I think running them against each other would make sense ...
The bamboo is better suited for fully automated and difficult filaments. The flsun is larger in build size, but slower in default spec, but the x1 similarly fast in normal mode, but faster in ludicrous (just like tesla i think) mode. With that said, you can easily increase the speed (acceleration) with a push of a button to totally bonkers values. For example my direct drive SR runs at 12,5k acceleration and has minimal ringing without input shaper. If i would increase stepper current and acceleration, i think it will beat the bamboo in terms of speed. Since its klipper, you can easily edit these values. My fastest benchy took 22min with said acceleration.
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 So your fastest benchy with tweaking is still slower than the default Bambu one? Surprising. Raw speed and acceleration would be the thing where I'd expect a delta to beat the Bambu. What I feel is missing on the V400 is an enclosure. I guess you cannot simply have panels between each pair of side-legs without the effector hitting them, right? And having that big height and the motors above that also is annoying if what you want to do is to keep the print which is near the bottom warm and don't want the motors to heat up. I love the look of a delta and the simplicity of a stationary bed at the bottom, but if I start to think about some of the technical points needed for stuff other than PLA, then I think Core XY still has some major benefits.
@@MisterkeTube as i said, not pushing the limit, my belts are at the end of their life. Stepper current is still normal at not even one amp. Feed rate was set to 275 for all except first layer, thats at 50 and minimum layer time set to 4s. After replacing the belts i will up the motor current to 1,5 amp and acceleration to 20k, later to 25k. In therms of feedrate i have no limit since im using a rapido uhf.
Hello 3D-printer fans! Can you make 3D items strong enough - like a chair? What are some real and practical examples/ solutions of the use of a 3D-printer? I´m silly interested in tools - I know zero about 3D-printing. Should I get one?
Why does almost every one of these show that red error message on the lower left corner of the screen (mine included)? My printer runs perfectly, but that error message "klipper has disconnected" persist and I haven't found a useful solution online. Nearly every review video shows the same error, even the displays at MicroCenter showed it.
Hello men! Could you please share your cura profiles? I'm planning to buy one of this printers and would like to have some for when it arrives! Thanks!
I probly would have gotten of if I was wasn’t dead set on building a 2.4 .(ldo 2.4 from hector lol). But the v400 is also way to tall for my room I feel like… but it’s still really really cool
I had a dragging issue on my SR, turned out to be combing mode in cura. This mode cancels z hops and drags the head across previously printed areas instead, and is on by default. Infill patterns which overlap lines (like cubic) will cause the noise more on the high spots than ones that don't overlap (like gyroid). Great review though, can't wait for mine. Currently upgrading my SR to compete with it (Klipper, CPAP mod, Rapido, CHT Volcano, Orbiter).
Get over the linear rails, most products are using them more for fashion than any good reason. Round rails can have much lower friction and are easier to clean than square ones. Sure for heavy loads but something with minimal force like a 3D printer I'd rather see the round rails. Same with lead screws, if the load is always on one side like in a delta printer I'd rather have the simpler lead screw than the heavier and more complex ball screw.
I grabbed a K1 and a K1 Max last week. The Max is great, but as expected the small boy is frustrating me with hardware issues. I'm headed to return/exchange the K1. My question is do i get another one or get the V400 in its place? Any feedback would be great
Can the FL V400 head be retrofitted to the Super Racer. I hate remote extruder drives for several annoying reasons. also if anyone knows what filament I should try that won't shrink if it got exposed to 120 degrees. My parts are shrinking significantly if they are left in a car or at ambient temperatures at 120 or higher.
We ordered it last month and it should have been sent by November 10th, but we never got any update and they are not responding on any platform not chat or any email. It has been more than a week and we are very worried. Anyone ordered in October and never got the printer and FLSUN is ghosting you?
They have been under a lock down dew to an outbreak, no updates yet and no compensation as it seems. However, FLSUN is a legit company, so i hope everything will turn out fine. Just the time the studio here is not able to print is very unfortunate.. its a very long delay.
So it seems that the cable that you had trouble passing through the bar is the one for the tablet… take it out of the bar and have more range for the tablet??
Hello, I see an X1C behind, we are a 3d printing company mainly using HP/EOS/Stratasys/3DSystems but need a "toy" FDM mainly for making gifts for customers and some low cost prototypes, which one do you like the most only for print quality? I don't care about speed, I do care about multi color so skip this part, I just want to know about print quality and surface finish, thanks!
One question, I need to print large format pieces where print quality doesn't matter much, but time is pressing, I'm between the elegoo neptune 3 max and this one. Bearing in mind that this one may require sectioning off larger pieces and waiting for the glue to dry when joining them, I'll still be able to get my pieces faster with this one than waiting for it to print in one piece in the elegoo even if it has a .8 mm extruder? Thanks in advance for your time
Hey dude, Just picking a random video to send a message as not sure of a more general way to contact. But have you ever tried out the BASF Ultrafuse TPC Filament? Would love to see a review on that and recommendations as there are literally no UA-cam printer guys talking about it.
Anyone else having problems receiving their order? I placed my order back in September and tried to contact them and they have not been helpful. They eventually told me they shipped all September orders however my order has not been. Anyone else having problems with this company?
While your observation of the price point is agreeable.. Why I wonder do we still use hot glue on the rods? I have an Anycubic Linear from back in the day and it was the same thing.
Have you tried printing nylon at all? Or even printing cf nylon or any other composites? Do you know of an hardened steel nozzles available for the v400?
Any chance of you doing a translation of some of the Chinese comments in the Klipper files? just for the comedy value of Google Translate, it comes up with some weird words and phrases when translating Mandarin!
Anyone run this with other materials, specifically PETG? I am looking at upgrading my "home business" and have a new product that needs to be something with more heat resistance than PLA but also I need to print faster than the entry level printers can do.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I am here from VOXELPLA, if you need any assistance please let me know.
Is your filament made in the USA?
@@jon9947 From their About Us page,
"We are a 3d printing company located in Southern California running 150 machine print farm that exclusively uses VOXELPLA. We created VOXELPLA to solve our issues with sourcing reliable and affordable filament; throughout the years, we have tested countless filament brands, but none offered the reliability that we needed at an affordable price, so we had to create our own."
@@jon9947 Hello Jon, our filament is produced overseas, but we maintain tight control of the production and run it in our print farm to ensure the best quality and reliability. If there is a problem, we will know about it first before any problematic units get out to the world.
@@voxelpla4457 Thanks, I think I'll pass. I can buy high quality China made PLA on Amazon for cheaper. If it was actually made in the USA I would buy from you, I enjoy supporting local business.
@@1trickpwny Thats all marketing BS, I asked it the way I asked it because there is a big difference between being a US company and a US producer. I am all for making money, but the only thing Voxel is doing is slapping their label on another brand and marketing it. Its not actually made in the US, and if I am buying imported filament then I would rather save a dollar and cut out the middle man. I am sure it is good PLA, it is very hard to make bad PLA.
Thanks for the mention 👍🙂Someone better at CAD than me is hopefully going to design a mount for that screen
Imma do it when i get it on nov 16th. Remind me then to post the link 👋🏻
@@emkay1182 here's your reminder! Picking mine up tomorrow
Lost in Tech is a much underrated channel.
Good to see anyone’s making delta’s. They SHOULD be in the game.
I just got my V400, and I must say, it's great that someone finally made a serious, no compromises, delta! The delta is really a great platform, but it really requires a first rate effort to be made for it to shine, and not to be a nightmare.
I have 2 old predators (2015 Delta?) and this is the Delta dream with many well though out upgrades
@@WhiteWolfos seemecnc had really good deltas such as the rostock v3.2
@@WhiteWolfosi really need to just throw out my predator..... The sunk cost fallacy got me hard
Great video.
Couple things.
1. Bed size: 300mm diameter circle would equate to 212x212mm square (fit inside the circle) Plus the obvious extra domes on each side of the square.
2. I really love that they have the lights built into the head. I feel like if we put some basic diffusers on them it would more easily spread out the light and have less triangular glare spots.
light Diffusers, I'm gonna add that to my design and build list when my v400 comes in, Thank you
Finally a manufacturer that supplies a detachable screen with good dimensions....
Regarding scraping and infill type, all self-intersecting infill patterns scrape because the slicers don't compensate for the crossings. Gyroid avoids that. Some other patterns avoid it too but AFAIK gyroid is the only one of them that's strong in all directions.
Zig zag and lines work well
beginners knowledge 😄
Gyroid was designed for squirting in resin.
Thank you. Seriously never thought of that. I use grid or cubic all the time and often hear the 'grinding' noise of it crossing the previous pattern.
May I tell you a secret:
you are printing the infill too fast if that happens . You are exceeding the maximum flow of the hotend.
You don't believe? Well, you can try it slow for once, right? ^^
You're welcome 😉
A little lube in the wires or wire sheath will make it a lot easier to slide through.
Great video. FL SUN has seriously changed the game with this! Hope to have the funds to get one of these machines down the road to accompany my Super Racer!
😅 I guess we will see if I'm classified as an absolute giant 😉 can't wait to buy my own V400!! Love my super racer and I am such a fan girl of my first delta printer that has blown away my other Ender printer by leaps and bounds!! Thanks for this review 👍
Thank you for the heads up on Voxel PLA filament. Just placed an order for 3 rolls. If it good for me I will tell all my printing friends about it. Great price and free shipping over 2 rolls.
I am sure you won't be disappointed
@@voxelpla4457 Filament just arrived. I will do a short youtube on it.
finally a decent sponsor!! Headed to voxelpla now!!
Buyers, beware, do not buy into the hype and free printers that are given to reviewers. I can tell you you will be lucky to get your order the way most customers have to order in one to two months with tons of excuses. Not the type of company I would want to do business with, and if you did I could imagine the type of support you would get and time delays.
Did you get your printer
This will be my next 3d printer. Easy to initially get running with plenty of tinkering potential, the voron 2.4 is looking pretty outdated (especially for the price) at this point.
Looking fantastic. Like some others have said, I feel like it needs to be enclosed. Or at least have the option to buy an enclosure or something. Having a direct drive all metal hot end is fantastic, but it's main purpose would be for use with alternate materials.
I'd love to buy one, just not sure I'd get the use out of it just yet with my 9 other printers. The speed is great, though I may settle with the SR as the V400 doesn't come back in stock in the UK until October!
Great review!
5:20. This only took me three minutes. I cut off a piece of PLA that was just over twice as long as the length of the channels (so I could double it over). The USB / power cable has a cable capture on it, to keep them bound together. I just ran my PLA between the power and USB cable (just behind the cable capture), then taped the two ends of the PLA together, fed the taped end down the channel, and pulled the cable through. Easy peasy. (PLA is MUCH better choice than Ninja flex, because you don't want your fish to flex and bind in the channel.)
Thank you for this review. I like you loose style. And the color grading on this video is very nice!
mine finally showed up. Fishing the cables through the upright was pretty easy for me. I kept the printer on its side with the leg needing the cables resting on the table. Then I pushed it through. This way gravity would not work against me.
I didn't know this printer before this video, I'm definitely saving up for this ASAP, I love it has DD , And Klipper pre installed
An enclosure would enable so much. ABS, Nylon, PC and so on. Should be easy for FLSun to offer something.
why an encolosure is necessary for ABS, Nylon, PC ? Tx
@@damien2198 Because ABS is an amorph material and PC and Nylon semi crystal iirc, then cooling to fast they shrink due to stress. Which can result in warping, poor layer adhesion/bonding and delamination.
They do sell an enclosure
I have got to get myself one of these!!! and love and watch all your vidz ModBot, Please keep up the excellent work from Chris in the UK.....
Idaho! I’m in Ventura and will be moving to Napa in early next year 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Always happy to follow your content!
Latest Cura (as well as 4.3 I believe) has a Profile comparison plugin from the Market Place. It is called "Profil Analyser 1.2.1 by Saxes" ( their spelling not mine ).
Klipper seems to be gaining ground and popularity. Nice review.
I remember a few years ago when I mentioned the flsun qq-s pro and you said "most people use enders type printers so you wouldn't be looking at deltas. How things have changed…
About dragging sound, it appears when you are using grid infill, we have lines on one direction and then on same height lines in other direction (nozzle touch previous lines). Gyroid is good to avoid this, but I like to use ZIG-ZAG infill (more stright lines). There are no line crossings on same layer. (experience from FLSUN SR). To understand this better, analyze one layer printing in Cura preview. (delta don't have that stright plane movement in XY direction as cartasians or corexy)
For the screen positioning problem I have an idea, they sell apple MagSafe magnets that you could stick in the back of the monitor and print a base and also add the magnets to it. Then you have a MagSafe display
Ooooh I like that idea 💡 I converted my samsung to magsafe and its absolutely brilliant 🤩👍
For some reason I like the square look. Much easier to put in places I think.
Great review! This looks like a fantastic printer! Thanks for sharing!
Just got my v400 (upgrade to my QQS-pro).
Cura 5.3 comes with v400 profiles.
Great video this loons fun
That sounds believe it or not is actually the stepper motors at certain speeds. The one that sounds like it's grinding on the print. If it was actually grinding that hard it would yank the print. Gyroid just changes the actual speed that the motors can move so kinda knocks the sound out
@3:37 , when the head moves towards the camera, it looks like the reflection is running at half the fps than the animation :P Glitch in the matrix.
Great Review, Great Printer !!!
Thank you
Love that package!
Whatever an adoo is... I had a tevo little monster. It's been down and needs a new board and I decided to order the v400 as a better investment. (Everyone hated it but it was good even if tevo sucked back when it came out.) I'm excited for the klipper since ive been marlin based for years. Thanks for the video!
Great review.
I think using the old slicers that come with printers is just a bad idea. A) Maybe I'm wrong, but the first thing I do when I get a new printer is make sure I have the latest version of my preferred slicer and then look for built-in profiles or profiles on the manufacturers website. B) using known old software with known bugs that have probably been fixed already.
I see the slicer they come with as a bare minimum effort for people who don't have decent or constant internet access to be able to use the printer immediately until they can get a proper, up-to-date slicer.
Could you do a comparison between the v400 and Bambu p1p? In many markets the v400 is hovering near the $750 range so they're definitely cost rivals and being two of the fastest printers on the market, would be interesting to see actual prints from both.
Wow, didn't even know people still made delta printers!
There are not many!
Spritz of silicone spray in a tube/extrusion usually makes pulling wires through it rather effortless....
It’s funny cause I was able to just push the whole cable through the Y axis extrusion on its own without needing any string to pull it. Took me all of 20 seconds lol
The SR was a shorter machine and spool mounted on the top as well.
How does it compare against the Bambu Labs X1 Carbon? Size, speed, special materials (read: enclosure) and just ease-of-use? Sure, one is core-xy and the other delta, but both of these seem like speed-demons that don't require much (or any) tinkering and seem similarly priced, so I think running them against each other would make sense ...
The bamboo is better suited for fully automated and difficult filaments. The flsun is larger in build size, but slower in default spec, but the x1 similarly fast in normal mode, but faster in ludicrous (just like tesla i think) mode. With that said, you can easily increase the speed (acceleration) with a push of a button to totally bonkers values. For example my direct drive SR runs at 12,5k acceleration and has minimal ringing without input shaper. If i would increase stepper current and acceleration, i think it will beat the bamboo in terms of speed. Since its klipper, you can easily edit these values. My fastest benchy took 22min with said acceleration.
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 So your fastest benchy with tweaking is still slower than the default Bambu one? Surprising. Raw speed and acceleration would be the thing where I'd expect a delta to beat the Bambu.
What I feel is missing on the V400 is an enclosure. I guess you cannot simply have panels between each pair of side-legs without the effector hitting them, right? And having that big height and the motors above that also is annoying if what you want to do is to keep the print which is near the bottom warm and don't want the motors to heat up. I love the look of a delta and the simplicity of a stationary bed at the bottom, but if I start to think about some of the technical points needed for stuff other than PLA, then I think Core XY still has some major benefits.
@@MisterkeTube as i said, not pushing the limit, my belts are at the end of their life.
Stepper current is still normal at not even one amp. Feed rate was set to 275 for all except first layer, thats at 50 and minimum layer time set to 4s. After replacing the belts i will up the motor current to 1,5 amp and acceleration to 20k, later to 25k.
In therms of feedrate i have no limit since im using a rapido uhf.
@@kilianlindlbauer8277 Ludicrous Speed is a hyperspace speed considerably faster than light speed. It's from Space Balls, the movie.
@@woodcat7180 thanks, thought tesla had something similar named, they have sometimes funny naming too
In cura you have to turn off combing and set your z hop but I’ve never had this issue on orca
Excellent video. I've been looking at a few related to Flsun V400 and SR to compar, and yours was the best I've seen regarding the v400.
Not gonna lie the easiest part for me was feeding the cables through it lol
You're a wizard.. ;)
thx for the vid! might go for it but maybe waiting for an "B-version" would also be clever :/
Re: TPU, I have a simpler xy style printer and can't print TPU faster than 50mm/s so it's probably a material and cooling limitation.
I wish I could buy this model from Amazon
i had the exact same problem with the wire😂😂
Ordered mine months ago, still in queue according to mail contact.
It’s a 375 z print area 410 is including the arms
Hey, can you please explain the 375 and the 410? Is 375mm the z on the outside of the outer perimiter and 410mm at the centre at the nozzle?
Thanks
Hello 3D-printer fans!
Can you make 3D items strong enough - like a chair? What are some real and practical examples/ solutions of the use of a 3D-printer?
I´m silly interested in tools - I know zero about 3D-printing. Should I get one?
Why does almost every one of these show that red error message on the lower left corner of the screen (mine included)? My printer runs perfectly, but that error message "klipper has disconnected" persist and I haven't found a useful solution online. Nearly every review video shows the same error, even the displays at MicroCenter showed it.
Hello men! Could you please share your cura profiles? I'm planning to buy one of this printers and would like to have some for when it arrives!
Thanks!
I probly would have gotten of if I was wasn’t dead set on building a 2.4 .(ldo 2.4 from hector lol). But the v400 is also way to tall for my room I feel like… but it’s still really really cool
What I don’t get is how do you see kipper software on your web browser ? I can see on my chrome app on my phone but not my PC/
I was going to buy one, but the shipping is $120 from a US warehouse, which seemed a bit high.
I had a dragging issue on my SR, turned out to be combing mode in cura. This mode cancels z hops and drags the head across previously printed areas instead, and is on by default. Infill patterns which overlap lines (like cubic) will cause the noise more on the high spots than ones that don't overlap (like gyroid).
Great review though, can't wait for mine. Currently upgrading my SR to compete with it (Klipper, CPAP mod, Rapido, CHT Volcano, Orbiter).
What is the "CPAP mod" please?
I need that profile for the tpu please!!
Je n'ai eu AUCUN problème pour passer les cables dans le profil alu. Peut etre je suis super doué ?.
Morning can you run calibrations With kipper without a 3rd party host ( protoface repetier etc)
How are you liking Idaho? I'm a native Idahoan here in Boise. If you're local, i'd love to chat about printing. Great video!
Get over the linear rails, most products are using them more for fashion than any good reason. Round rails can have much lower friction and are easier to clean than square ones. Sure for heavy loads but something with minimal force like a 3D printer I'd rather see the round rails. Same with lead screws, if the load is always on one side like in a delta printer I'd rather have the simpler lead screw than the heavier and more complex ball screw.
Agreed, linear rods are the right choice for a delta printer.
I grabbed a K1 and a K1 Max last week. The Max is great, but as expected the small boy is frustrating me with hardware issues. I'm headed to return/exchange the K1. My question is do i get another one or get the V400 in its place? Any feedback would be great
Can the FL V400 head be retrofitted to the Super Racer. I hate remote extruder drives for several annoying reasons. also if anyone knows what filament I should try that won't shrink if it got exposed to 120 degrees. My parts are shrinking significantly if they are left in a car or at ambient temperatures at 120 or higher.
We ordered it last month and it should have been sent by November 10th, but we never got any update and they are not responding on any platform not chat or any email. It has been more than a week and we are very worried.
Anyone ordered in October and never got the printer and FLSUN is ghosting you?
They have been under a lock down dew to an outbreak, no updates yet and no compensation as it seems.
However, FLSUN is a legit company, so i hope everything will turn out fine. Just the time the studio here is not able to print is very unfortunate.. its a very long delay.
So it seems that the cable that you had trouble passing through the bar is the one for the tablet… take it out of the bar and have more range for the tablet??
Hello, I see an X1C behind, we are a 3d printing company mainly using HP/EOS/Stratasys/3DSystems but need a "toy" FDM mainly for making gifts for customers and some low cost prototypes, which one do you like the most only for print quality? I don't care about speed, I do care about multi color so skip this part, I just want to know about print quality and surface finish, thanks!
Love deltas
nice video brotha
I KEEP hearing about Clipper, and how great it is.....WHERE DO YOU GET CLIPPER, AND WHAT ABOUT IT IS SO GREAT?
ua-cam.com/video/t14oSnFdsgo/v-deo.html
Enclosure options for ASA and ABS ?
Are you planning on getting there screen to put on your SR? I just ordered mine and excited about the new journey of klipper!
nice
Hey great vid! What did you end up coming up with for a solution to mount the touch screen to the rail??
Brother você é o melhor top top top 👍
Has anybody tested the v400 with added plexi enclosure between the rails?
One question, I need to print large format pieces where print quality doesn't matter much, but time is pressing, I'm between the elegoo neptune 3 max and this one. Bearing in mind that this one may require sectioning off larger pieces and waiting for the glue to dry when joining them, I'll still be able to get my pieces faster with this one than waiting for it to print in one piece in the elegoo even if it has a .8 mm extruder? Thanks in advance for your time
Hey dude,
Just picking a random video to send a message as not sure of a more general way to contact.
But have you ever tried out the BASF Ultrafuse TPC Filament?
Would love to see a review on that and recommendations as there are literally no UA-cam printer guys talking about it.
This is very helpful, thank you. I have a prusa Mini+ and I'm thinking about upgrading. Would you say this printer is better than the Prusa i3 MK3S+?
Anyone else having problems receiving their order? I placed my order back in September and tried to contact them and they have not been helpful. They eventually told me they shipped all September orders however my order has not been. Anyone else having problems with this company?
Would you post your klipper profiles? I tried Klipper on my SR a while ago and had an awful time with BLtouch.
What would you buy ? This or the bambu lab x1c ? If you only had to pick one ?
Hi. Did anyone try PA on this thing?
i hade the same problem with SR, do you have a fix for it so its not scraping on the infill?
While your observation of the price point is agreeable.. Why I wonder do we still use hot glue on the rods? I have an Anycubic Linear from back in the day and it was the same thing.
Thats epoxy, not hot glue, at least on the sr, way to hard for hot glue
Do you think you could use the print head from a V400 on a SR?
Have you tried printing nylon at all? Or even printing cf nylon or any other composites? Do you know of an hardened steel nozzles available for the v400?
Does the FLSUN v400 print as fast as a voron 2.4? Can you wrap the sides to make ABS/ASA printing more reliable?
No, a voron should be a lot faster
Flsun prusa or bambu what the consensus
I'm curious how input shaper is set? Did you come configured already or did you use an accelerometer?
Any chance of you doing a translation of some of the Chinese comments in the Klipper files? just for the comedy value of Google Translate, it comes up with some weird words and phrases when translating Mandarin!
how fast would you do PETG on it?
its giant oml
Anyone run this with other materials, specifically PETG? I am looking at upgrading my "home business" and have a new product that needs to be something with more heat resistance than PLA but also I need to print faster than the entry level printers can do.
Doesnt PETG prints the same as pla? ^^
This or bambu x1?