Good job bloke, 7 months ago when I got my 56 plate that was the first thing I had to do, luckily I did not had that amount of broken bolts it was just one or two. But could not remove the bumper as it was very well secured with wood screws.. But looks I've did everything right never had a leak again thanks the lord
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos you know bloke it's not all of us that had the please of having macgyver as the previous owner, funny enough got a new £20 ebay bumper and had to left some screws as the lateral black clipping stuff was missing. Haha
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I had to say you've strike a great deal on that, I've paid 32 for mine, but in the advert said "quality u can trust" so I felt compelled to that
@@andreramos945 well if it’s quality you can trust them say no more,.. I decided to get an oem used one instead of a new aftermarket though. I’ve not put any water in it yet though so 🤞
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I hope everything will be fine, looking forward to the part 2. U got ur self a bargain with that, I did not had anything on ebay on the time I needed
My 09 C1 is in the garage for overheating issues and just got a quote for the repair ... so I googled to see what is involved and your video was one of the first to be suggested so you are doing great there 🙂 Having seen the hassles you had with this I now understand the amount of the quote 😂😂🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣😂😂
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Hehe 😂 Do you think they are worth repairing and hanging on to considering how cheap they are to run, tax, repair versus the ravages of time and the move to exepensive EVs?
Bro! You don't have to remove the radiator support bracket (the six bolts will always snap). Instead, remove the bonnet catch and the battery tray then lever the radiator down from above (insert a lever between the slam panel and the top of the radiator). It will flex enough to come out, levering it down and back. Do the same thing in reverse to put the new one in.
Those were the days… to be honest, this wouldn’t be anywhere near as bad if all the horns weren’t in the way especially if the bolts weren’t seized to fuck.
Well just rewatched this as had to do mine. Yes the bolts broke on mine too. Seems they are made of cheese! Was dreading having to drill them out, but they were so soft it was a piece of piss.
Thanks! Mine was leaking from where the plastic tank joins to the heat exchanger. It’s probably the most common place they leak, unless damaged by a stone or something.
When you fit the water pump, please pay careful attention to the bolt lengths! At a glance, it looks like there are long and short ones, but there are actually three lengths & two are quite close (45mm and 50mm from memory). Ask me how I know! :-(
from the part numbers here toyota.7zap.com/en/eu/aygo/101510/kgb10r-agmgkw/1/1601/162257e/ you can work out which bolts are 20mm (x2), which is 45mm (x1) and which are 50mm (x2). I've watched a lot of water pump change videos and I've only ever heard two lengths mentioned. This diagram helped us redo the job... Follow ※2 unless you're fitting one of the early, dodgy steel-based "bean can" pumps.
Will do, thanks for the heads up. I work on bikes usually and crank casings etc are often like this with slightly different length bolts. Can usually work it out by how far they stick out before they screw in if you do get the mixed up, but better to just not mix them up. I think my current pump actually has one missing 🤣
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Thanks for the reply Tim. Yeah, in this case, we managed to get a 45 and 50 mixed up and both torqued up just fine! "Yesss!" I knew you know your onions, just wanted to make sure you didn't fall into the same trap I did :)
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Your current pump definately has one of the five missing :-D. It's also not the original pump design for the ~2006 model year but that's a good thing. The newer pump design can still leak around the shaft. Mine did.
Sounds like it could be steam from it leaking slightly, the light will only come on if it overheats. On mine the leak caused the coolant level to get low enough to cause it to overheat. Keep an eye on the level, but you need to check it when cold at the rad cap, not the expansion tank. If you do have a leak and the system isn’t sealed, the amount of coolant in the expansion tank won’t be drawn back into the radiator to keep it topped up.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos thanks mate. But it's full. Don't know if it could be blocked because it's never gone down lol. Also, sorry to be a pain but the lights in my dash all flash when I press the stop peddle, I yanked all the wires in the back by accident when I was removing the back seats and decking it out as a van
@@japreet_kah you mean the water actually in the radiator doesn’t go down or in the tank? As for the wiring it sounds like you’ve crossed a wire somewhere, which dash lights come in? The backlight?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos next weeks video.... City bug radiator replacement part 2.... Along with the alternator and cat replacement as some tw*t has stolen them with the front end stripped down 🤣🤣🤣
Mate quick question what's the part called that the original horn is attatched too, I was in a minor accident and its bent 😂 I can't find what the part is called at all
You just gave me a bit of worry about my Pug 107. I discovered a small puddle on the driveway which is on a steep incline. I only use this part of the driveway when I need to park at the front of our flat for hoovering etc. Now, I only started to see this after I filled up the screen wash reservoir to the brim so that can be one of the culprits. Also, when I park the car at the communal parking I never see any puddles. Do you think this is something I should be worried about?
Probably just the screen wash to be honest, the radiators don’t seem to be a common issue as far as I’m aware. Just keep an eye on the level if you’re worried though.
Yea AC wouldn’t have helped. It was just the rusty bolts and all the dumb stuff I’ve fastened to the under tray that made it more awkward though to be honest 🤣
How many miles can you squeeze out of a full tank? I'm on 410 and into the penultimate bar on the gauge :-s does it give you plenty of warning before it dies?
Nice one! So more videos coming. I have a question for you although I know your C1 does not have power windows. I'm trying (for a few days) wire a slave DPDT switch to the driver side from from the passenger window. I have tried all possible valid combination of wiring but when I try to put the power and ground in series to the master passenger switch it smokes and nothing happens. If I do this directly without the master switch it works. What am I messing up here? Sorry to post here but I don't know where can I find a forum for these silly questions. Any ideas welcome.
@@Gourmondise are you using the another switch the same? Like a window switch from another bug? I’m not sure without seeing it, but the switch will be controlling a relay which isn’t always simple if it’s a forward and reverse circuit, and I suspect that the switch you’re using is possibly trying to switch both sides of the relay at once at a guess?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos the switch I'm using is a generic momentary-off-momentary DPDT 2 pole 6 pin switch. Cars usually fitted with a 5 pin switch but the Pug/C1/Aygo has a 4 pin one. I was thinking to fit another genuine pug switch but it is just bulky and I have no space to fit it. Perhaps getting a generic power window switch can solve the issue or getting a relay may help?
@@Gourmondise use a servo from an RC car to press/lift the button. You could mount to transmitter on the steering wheel for steering wheel mounted controls 🤷♀️
Great video as always, you really radiate so much professionalism and enthusiasm in all you do. Nice one.
Thanks mate 😂😂
Another masterclass Sir Tim 👍
Cheers mate.
Good job bloke, 7 months ago when I got my 56 plate that was the first thing I had to do, luckily I did not had that amount of broken bolts it was just one or two. But could not remove the bumper as it was very well secured with wood screws.. But looks I've did everything right never had a leak again thanks the lord
Wood screws wood probably hold it pretty securely…
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos you know bloke it's not all of us that had the please of having macgyver as the previous owner, funny enough got a new £20 ebay bumper and had to left some screws as the lateral black clipping stuff was missing. Haha
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I had to say you've strike a great deal on that, I've paid 32 for mine, but in the advert said "quality u can trust" so I felt compelled to that
@@andreramos945 well if it’s quality you can trust them say no more,.. I decided to get an oem used one instead of a new aftermarket though. I’ve not put any water in it yet though so 🤞
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos I hope everything will be fine, looking forward to the part 2. U got ur self a bargain with that, I did not had anything on ebay on the time I needed
My 09 C1 is in the garage for overheating issues and just got a quote for the repair ... so I googled to see what is involved and your video was one of the first to be suggested so you are doing great there 🙂 Having seen the hassles you had with this I now understand the amount of the quote 😂😂🤣🤣😂😂🤣🤣😂😂
Pretty much every job on these cars is easy, until bolts snap 😂
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Hehe 😂 Do you think they are worth repairing and hanging on to considering how cheap they are to run, tax, repair versus the ravages of time and the move to exepensive EVs?
@@AC-um2mk definitely, as long as they’re not badly rotten
Thanks very much man, appreciate your effort to analyse fix and record!😊
Nice one. Thanks for watching mate
Awesome upload very helpful 😀 you love dat car 😎👍
Thanks mate.
Bro! You don't have to remove the radiator support bracket (the six bolts will always snap). Instead, remove the bonnet catch and the battery tray then lever the radiator down from above (insert a lever between the slam panel and the top of the radiator). It will flex enough to come out, levering it down and back. Do the same thing in reverse to put the new one in.
I’ll keep that in mind for next time!
Another great vid to archive. Cheers.
Thanks mate.
What a shit way that rad is mounted, well done to you fella I remember when cars had a couple of bolts and rads just popped out 👍
Those were the days… to be honest, this wouldn’t be anywhere near as bad if all the horns weren’t in the way especially if the bolts weren’t seized to fuck.
superb video weldone mate
Thanks mate.
Well just rewatched this as had to do mine.
Yes the bolts broke on mine too. Seems they are made of cheese!
Was dreading having to drill them out, but they were so soft it was a piece of piss.
Yea they aren’t great. I think it’s just cos of where they are more than anything else
i have to keep topping up my expansion tank and i have noticed wetness under the radiator but not on the floor.
It will be weeping where the core is attached to the plastic tank but slow enough to evaporate rather than drip
Hey great video. was the cooler leaking from the bottom as you showed? Because mine sprays water up and down. can't find where it comes from
Thanks! Mine was leaking from where the plastic tank joins to the heat exchanger. It’s probably the most common place they leak, unless damaged by a stone or something.
This vid was pretty rad
Totally rad dude.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos hopefully the next one won't be... *hot and steamy*
@@benedictroberts678 we’ll soon see 🤷♀️
When you fit the water pump, please pay careful attention to the bolt lengths! At a glance, it looks like there are long and short ones, but there are actually three lengths & two are quite close (45mm and 50mm from memory). Ask me how I know! :-(
from the part numbers here toyota.7zap.com/en/eu/aygo/101510/kgb10r-agmgkw/1/1601/162257e/ you can work out which bolts are 20mm (x2), which is 45mm (x1) and which are 50mm (x2). I've watched a lot of water pump change videos and I've only ever heard two lengths mentioned. This diagram helped us redo the job... Follow ※2 unless you're fitting one of the early, dodgy steel-based "bean can" pumps.
Will do, thanks for the heads up. I work on bikes usually and crank casings etc are often like this with slightly different length bolts. Can usually work it out by how far they stick out before they screw in if you do get the mixed up, but better to just not mix them up. I think my current pump actually has one missing 🤣
P.s. at work I take much more care than I do in those videos, just to clarify 😂😂😂
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Thanks for the reply Tim. Yeah, in this case, we managed to get a 45 and 50 mixed up and both torqued up just fine! "Yesss!"
I knew you know your onions, just wanted to make sure you didn't fall into the same trap I did :)
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos Your current pump definately has one of the five missing :-D. It's also not the original pump design for the ~2006 model year but that's a good thing.
The newer pump design can still leak around the shaft. Mine did.
I don't have rad light but my rad is white smoking. Any ideas why guys?
Sounds like it could be steam from it leaking slightly, the light will only come on if it overheats. On mine the leak caused the coolant level to get low enough to cause it to overheat. Keep an eye on the level, but you need to check it when cold at the rad cap, not the expansion tank. If you do have a leak and the system isn’t sealed, the amount of coolant in the expansion tank won’t be drawn back into the radiator to keep it topped up.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos thanks mate. But it's full. Don't know if it could be blocked because it's never gone down lol. Also, sorry to be a pain but the lights in my dash all flash when I press the stop peddle, I yanked all the wires in the back by accident when I was removing the back seats and decking it out as a van
@@japreet_kah you mean the water actually in the radiator doesn’t go down or in the tank? As for the wiring it sounds like you’ve crossed a wire somewhere, which dash lights come in? The backlight?
Another Buzzing Video mate, shame you didn't try some Holts Rad-weld first 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I wish I fucking had of!
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos next weeks video.... City bug radiator replacement part 2.... Along with the alternator and cat replacement as some tw*t has stolen them with the front end stripped down 🤣🤣🤣
@@joebloggs3629 sounds like a free decat 🤷♀️
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos straight pipe it!!!!
@@joebloggs3629 I’ve seen videos of them straight piped… 😬
Mate quick question what's the part called that the original horn is attatched too, I was in a minor accident and its bent 😂 I can't find what the part is called at all
Hi mate, front crossmember/slam panel
Fully understand the radiator replacement with winter coming in .. but did you go oil. Gas or economy 7 ??
Economy all the way… it’s what these cars do best.
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos solar panel on the roof and its practically a self charging hybrid ,,, lol
You just gave me a bit of worry about my Pug 107. I discovered a small puddle on the driveway which is on a steep incline. I only use this part of the driveway when I need to park at the front of our flat for hoovering etc. Now, I only started to see this after I filled up the screen wash reservoir to the brim so that can be one of the culprits. Also, when I park the car at the communal parking I never see any puddles.
Do you think this is something I should be worried about?
Probably just the screen wash to be honest, the radiators don’t seem to be a common issue as far as I’m aware. Just keep an eye on the level if you’re worried though.
Many thanks buddy. I appreciate your response! Keep the videos comin mate!
@@Gourmondise cheers mate, and as long as I’ve got stuff to film I’ll keep them coming.
Wow, so many rusty bolts.. Anyway, bet you're glad theres no AC, as that make it all even more awkward, I'm sure
Yea AC wouldn’t have helped. It was just the rusty bolts and all the dumb stuff I’ve fastened to the under tray that made it more awkward though to be honest 🤣
How many miles can you squeeze out of a full tank? I'm on 410 and into the penultimate bar on the gauge :-s does it give you plenty of warning before it dies?
Dunno, I’ve never filled it to the top 🤣
But I did check how many miles I get from when it starts beeping and flashing, to when it runs out.
ua-cam.com/video/gBztYEDnqKA/v-deo.html
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos nice! Thanks for the link !
@@andyweb7779 no problem mate.
Also, seeing all the videos from all the whistles and bells you added to your C1 I have to ask. Will it still pass MOT or it has or will be SORN-ed?
It will need the LED headlight bulbs swapping back, but that’s about it I reckon.
Nice one! So more videos coming.
I have a question for you although I know your C1 does not have power windows.
I'm trying (for a few days) wire a slave DPDT switch to the driver side from from the passenger window.
I have tried all possible valid combination of wiring but when I try to put the power and ground in series to the master passenger switch it smokes and nothing happens. If I do this directly without the master switch it works. What am I messing up here?
Sorry to post here but I don't know where can I find a forum for these silly questions. Any ideas welcome.
@@Gourmondise are you using the another switch the same? Like a window switch from another bug? I’m not sure without seeing it, but the switch will be controlling a relay which isn’t always simple if it’s a forward and reverse circuit, and I suspect that the switch you’re using is possibly trying to switch both sides of the relay at once at a guess?
@@StupidBlokeStupidVideos the switch I'm using is a generic momentary-off-momentary DPDT 2 pole 6 pin switch. Cars usually fitted with a 5 pin switch but the Pug/C1/Aygo has a 4 pin one.
I was thinking to fit another genuine pug switch but it is just bulky and I have no space to fit it.
Perhaps getting a generic power window switch can solve the issue or getting a relay may help?
@@Gourmondise use a servo from an RC car to press/lift the button. You could mount to transmitter on the steering wheel for steering wheel mounted controls 🤷♀️
Of course the radiator decides to leak after changing the coolant
Naturally.