Love it, this is awesome...you talk about all the different projects with just enough detail that’s not boring but interesting too watch, great content, thanks you guys
I like the use of the cauls to keep the glue up flat during the drying process. I imagine cutting a miter 9' long on both sides of the countertop will be challenging. I look forward to seeing how you do it.
I recently ran across your channel and love the content and quality of work you guys do. This is one of the few channels I have all notifications enabled. Keep up the good work! Steve
Can't wait to see the hidden p-trap vanity installed with all the plumbing. I'm curious to know what drain body you're using for it and if you're able to have a pop-up drain with it. I would think it'd be hard to integrate a pop-up drain arm with the really slim 90 degree style drain bodies.
Hiya I'm scott nice to find your videos because I'm doing that task next at college joinery diploma at hull I'm loving it n were moving g onto power tools now and something is it called gatshell chissel exercise 🎉🎉???
Ken, Even in a climate controlled environment there must be a considerable potential for expansion and contraction over the length (width?) of your 9 ft. top. How much movement do you anticipate? How will that be addressed? Will it be allowed to slide into a cavity/slot/mortise in the wall? Expansion of the end cap could cause lifting of the top, or will it have some allowance made to enable its movement? I don't do Instagram, I hope these details are worth noting in your installation video. Love this channel. Thanks.
For sure. Thats one of the reasons for going with edge grain. It cuts movement in half if not more, over flat sawn. But still, yes over 9' there will be some movement. This island top is also "free floating". It will be secured to a knee wall but we will drill through the top plate with a much wider bit than the shank of the screw to allow for that movement while still keeping the counter secure.
@@kendecost Thanks for the prompt response. Have you heard a shrinkage calculator? (Shrinkulator) I'm smart enough to input numbers into it (which gives me cause for concern) but I'm not smart enough to know if the numbers I have input are appropriate to the environment the wood will reside in. You guys do everything in a belt and suspenders plus kind of way. I look forward to seeing it completed with antici pation.
It’s going to be hard to keep that counter top straight. Normally you run the board the length of the top not the width be careful guys. I would be screwing some straight boards on the bottom before install to help out.
Awesome video as usual. I see so many cabinet builders out there with torsion style assembly tables and stressing over a dead flat assembly surface, while others don't and seemingly get the same results. What are your thoughts and do you guys have that style assembly table?
Great video. Have been binging on your channel since I found it last week. Will you run the countertop through the widebelt or just sand with orbital? For the last glue up on the counter do you still use cauls or just dominos for alignment and clamp? Thanks.
Your making the removable panel too complicated and once you cut the center again and pull it tight with the lamellos Your gaps on the sides will be larger than the top and bottom. You have the zeta p2 already so use that on the sides of your removable panel. But you will notice the tabs get in the way. So sand the tabs off one side. This way you can get your gaps tighter. And maybe work with the plumber and move the p trap to the side of the opening so you don't need to split the removable panel.
Thanks Ben. While your solution works, that is not what our intent is and we are limited by site conditions. Yes you're right that the cutting the middle seam will grow our gaps on the sides, but we can account for the difference in the sides vs top by cutting the tops shorter as well. We also understand that we can improve this by using a smaller kerf blade and plan to do so when running into this situation again.
Sorry, I don’t enjoy the bloopers. Just an opinion, but I find them distracting and unprofessional. Of course it’s impossible to please everyone. Still, I find your videos my favorite content on youtube. Thanks for sharing your work!
I like that some of the blooper takes are left in the video, makes it more engaging to watch.
Love it.... these keep getting better and better. Incredible info and attention to detail. Thank you guys!
Love it, this is awesome...you talk about all the different projects with just enough detail that’s not boring but interesting too watch, great content, thanks you guys
Appreciate that. That is the goal after all.
I find packing tape works well for cauls as the glue does not stick to it.
Agreed.
I like the use of the cauls to keep the glue up flat during the drying process. I imagine cutting a miter 9' long on both sides of the countertop will be challenging. I look forward to seeing how you do it.
I recently ran across your channel and love the content and quality of work you guys do. This is one of the few channels I have all notifications enabled. Keep up the good work! Steve
Really appreciate that Steve!
Love these. Thanks for sharing your processes
Can't wait to see the hidden p-trap vanity installed with all the plumbing. I'm curious to know what drain body you're using for it and if you're able to have a pop-up drain with it. I would think it'd be hard to integrate a pop-up drain arm with the really slim 90 degree style drain bodies.
We'll be sure to cover this in the final reveal of the vanities. Thank you.
Yo Jamin :) Wonder if they are using a bathtub type of drain arm? Lots of push to latch drain bodies to choose from there.
Ken, still getting comfortable on camera huh? I feel you man, I feel you! It's such an unnatural feeling!
Hiya I'm scott nice to find your videos because I'm doing that task next at college joinery diploma at hull I'm loving it n were moving g onto power tools now and something is it called gatshell chissel exercise 🎉🎉???
Truly just here for the bloopers 😎
Ken,
Even in a climate controlled environment there must be a considerable potential for expansion and contraction over the length (width?) of your 9 ft. top. How much movement do you anticipate? How will that be addressed? Will it be allowed to slide into a cavity/slot/mortise in the wall? Expansion of the end cap could cause lifting of the top, or will it have some allowance made to enable its movement? I don't do Instagram, I hope these details are worth noting in your installation video.
Love this channel. Thanks.
For sure. Thats one of the reasons for going with edge grain. It cuts movement in half if not more, over flat sawn. But still, yes over 9' there will be some movement. This island top is also "free floating". It will be secured to a knee wall but we will drill through the top plate with a much wider bit than the shank of the screw to allow for that movement while still keeping the counter secure.
@@kendecost Thanks for the prompt response. Have you heard a shrinkage calculator? (Shrinkulator) I'm smart enough to input numbers into it (which gives me cause for concern) but I'm not smart enough to know if the numbers I have input are appropriate to the environment the wood will reside in. You guys do everything in a belt and suspenders plus kind of way. I look forward to seeing it completed with antici pation.
Sweater got you looking like the Steve Jobs of cabinets.
Could yall do a video about mitering cabinet side panels to faceframes? Ive been struggling to get perfect results with that
It’s going to be hard to keep that counter top straight. Normally you run the board the length of the top not the width be careful guys. I would be screwing some straight boards on the bottom before install to help out.
Thanks Dave. There is a framed knee wall that will be under this island for attachment and support.
Perfect !
I had to learn the hard way lol
Awesome video as usual. I see so many cabinet builders out there with torsion style assembly tables and stressing over a dead flat assembly surface, while others don't and seemingly get the same results. What are your thoughts and do you guys have that style assembly table?
You’re a set of white gloves away from busting into a mime act in this one.
Nah I talk too much
Enjoyed the video. P.s. You should probably edit the video title to correct the typo
Great video. Have been binging on your channel since I found it last week. Will you run the countertop through the widebelt or just sand with orbital? For the last glue up on the counter do you still use cauls or just dominos for alignment and clamp? Thanks.
Really appreciate that. We will run it through the wide belt but it will also then get finished sanded with an orbital.
I really like your design drawings, what application do you use? Thanks.
Shops are done in CAD and the render was done in SketchUp
Im a bit late here but whats the brand of those Cabinet pulls? They look great!
Do you guys get the metal support brackets custom made? I've noticed they appear to be the same pieces for different projects.
We did very early on, but found a company online that sells them. A quick search will show several manufacturers.
Are you guys going to create a ytube channel for just millwork?
Mr. Ken, as a millwork drafter, what program do you guys use to create your shops?
Did you guys make the drawings, or did those come from the architect? What program do you use?
What’s your process of cutting that rabbit in the door for the pull..
Kid ya gawta try the drowpped crab legs with the white oak kicker
These are some good-looking sweatshirts, guys. How can I get my hands on one?
Only available to our team
How many guys work in the shop
Your making the removable panel too complicated and once you cut the center again and pull it tight with the lamellos Your gaps on the sides will be larger than the top and bottom. You have the zeta p2 already so use that on the sides of your removable panel. But you will notice the tabs get in the way. So sand the tabs off one side. This way you can get your gaps tighter. And maybe work with the plumber and move the p trap to the side of the opening so you don't need to split the removable panel.
Thanks Ben. While your solution works, that is not what our intent is and we are limited by site conditions. Yes you're right that the cutting the middle seam will grow our gaps on the sides, but we can account for the difference in the sides vs top by cutting the tops shorter as well. We also understand that we can improve this by using a smaller kerf blade and plan to do so when running into this situation again.
This guy sound High maintenance .
Sorry, I don’t enjoy the bloopers. Just an opinion, but I find them distracting and unprofessional. Of course it’s impossible to please everyone. Still, I find your videos my favorite content on youtube. Thanks for sharing your work!
Doing our first frame using a bridle joint dovetail lap and tennon 😊😊😊 carnt wait to learn that ❤
No diss at all but my shop drawings are way more detailed.
P trap
Who cares if you see a P-Trap way to much in MY opinion