Great video as usual Alan..I've been a mechanic for many years and come across some absolute headaches but your take on things really brightens my day....
Morning Alan. Your the master of humour in the garage but at the same same time give fantastic information on how you fix things helping other people 🤩 I’ve said it before if I was local you’d be looking after my car Alan 👍🏻
Blasted ABS is a pain. I started driving in 1966 and never needed this rubbish. Just drive sensibly. My 2010 KIA Piccanto needed a rear ABS N/S for MOT in year 8 and cost me £450 at dealer!. The next one that went I fixed from eBay for £50. Rob dog dealer.great video Keep it up Adrian.
No matter how "sensibly" you drive, there's alway someone else driving stupidly that you need to worry about. And if you suddenly need to brake hard, ABS will be able to react to the brakes locking up a million times faster than any human being can.
Brilliant mate !! Like your style, and a lot of your sentiments are the same as mine !! Give me a Rover 75 to work on any day. Far easier than any of these Euro trash boxes 🤠 BTW my Launch 431 scanner will give an implausible signal for most ABS bearings which have bits corroded or missing. On live data the speed of the suspect wheel will be erratic 👍✅
My vw cc had exactly the same problem even the same wheel. And the bolt was as tight. Had to put a scaffolding pole on the breaker bar too. I think I'll try a bit heat if the other side fails. 🤞
Allen I think you got of very lucky be heating that bolt up mate I do not like those type of bolts oyou can easily strip the thread by slpping of has that was si tight great video Phil in stoke
I have a VW Transporter t5.1 I had the same with my van spline bolts are a pain. Be careful not to round them off as Well. On the T5 they used bolts. Too over engineered. To do the front suspension on my van I had to remove the air box and scuttle panel as well.
I'm shocked at how badly corroded the entire underbody of relatively new cars are in many parts of the world. Where I live there is practically zero corrosion on 20+ year old cars. A bit of body rust but nothing more.
Hello Alan interesting vid this. I have to say that i really dont get why people like VAG cars. After owning a Polo for some considerable time, the parts are expensive and harder to work on. I once had an A reg Escort that i bought 3rd or 4th hand circa 1992 , i got it cheap coz it ran poorly, as the spring in the carbon contact in the distributor cap was sticking. I put a new exhaust and battery on it and aside from a pair of tyres that car ran for 5 years without costing a penny, aside from oil and filters. It never failed to start either. The Polo we swapped it for used to cost on average £500 a year one way or another. Though back then i used to work on cars myself as they were simple to work on. Tend to stick to Ford , even though they are as complicated to work on nowadays as any massed produced car.
I did the front springs on my Zafira B. I ended up having to replace the dampers as well. Why? because the torx slot on the top of the strut rusts and rounds off so you can’t undo the strut nut. The way I got round it was to use mole grips on the strut to undo nut hence new damper. So I understand things are NEVER straight forward
Alan. Short to plus. On Cyl 2. Moved my coils and sparks around. Didn’t followed. Stayed with Cyl2. Would this be a sticky burnt out valve do you think ?? Thanks 😅
Alan, wonder if you can help again !!!! CHEERS - I've pulled Injector rail and swapped INJ 2 across to 3, ( Injector 2 definately been recently changed, 1 and 3 looked much older ); Code read and still Short to Plus Cyl2 still running very rough. I'm waiting on compression test box mate but in meantime whilst I'm definately thinkng Valve problem Cyl2 could this be 'Non-Coded' Injector , symptoms are bad misfire enough flash EML, can stutter need turning off/on lights get going again over 1750 rpm max.... However this will drive 20 miles 77 mph happily on a 3Cyl Fox. Can it do this with a bad valve??? Cheers Dan
How Du !!!!! What’s going down in Alconbury. I’ve a MAP ThermoStat. It won’t open. The B won’t open. Changed it twice. And both temp sensors. And water pump works. And it cannot be head gasket. It boils over pressurises as coolant doesn’t travel through RAD Any idea !! Cheers. Oh can drive it thermo out fine. It’s boxed my head in !!!!!! Alan you’re the man. Bet you’ve half an idea. Garage said it likely early H Gasket. I dissagree. Car went in only for crankcase oil leak came out a pressure cooker. Oh For the love of used car sales had 17 years of it. Started to attempt fix cars. Never done this till had a fire waiting new premises. Having a mess myself
@P Mc thanks. So that’s like an open circuit. I apologise for being dumb. I’ve considered bad wiring bad ecu. How would voltage drop out from circuit. With thanks. Quite enjoyed getting more mechanical. Or M&E. Limited success. Hacks and Bodges success. Sorting properly with zero mechanical know how bar YT videos been hard.
@@charlesdale1462 lol, i usually use the hot air gun to heat up crankshaft bolts that are in very tight without getting the crank pulley or anything around it too hot
put the locking wheel nut key back in the car? drove 5 miles into town for parts and back with it inserted into its wheel nut before I realised I made that mistake, but luckily it was still in place!
Okay so I wasn't wrong about 180 degrees. I managed to tighten mine this much with the help from a friend and a very long iron pipe. I thought something was going to break during the process
@@torquesteer2657 i never thought to check rear ring because fault codes only said ,No message transmitter receiver abs , airbag fault codes caused by abs. I did get increment gear fault code
Why didn't you just use an impact gun to get the bolt off? I know the VW factory data says not to use an impact, but that's because the official VAG socket for that bolt is not impact-rated. Yours is.
When ever my car is going in for any work at all, I always leave the locking nut and book pack on the passenger seat... and the car is always emptied for easy access everywhere including the boot - it astounds me that there are so many people who don't bother!
Great video as usual Alan..I've been a mechanic for many years and come across some absolute headaches but your take on things really brightens my day....
cheers tony, yeah i know what you mean, it never gets any easier lol
Front shocks and springs on the golf plus are a nightmare Alan, Great Video.
Morning Alan. Your the master of humour in the garage but at the same same time give fantastic information on how you fix things helping other people 🤩 I’ve said it before if I was local you’d be looking after my car Alan 👍🏻
Thanks 👍stevie, maybe get to meet you one day, have a good one
😅👍 Excellent! Very enjoyable and educational… from USA! Thanks for sharing!
Great viewing Allen!
Thank you for sharing 🙂👍
cheers kevin
Great content as always Alan.
Blasted ABS is a pain. I started driving in 1966 and never needed this rubbish. Just drive sensibly. My 2010 KIA Piccanto needed a rear ABS N/S for MOT in year 8 and cost me £450 at dealer!. The next one that went I fixed from eBay for £50. Rob dog dealer.great video Keep it up Adrian.
No matter how "sensibly" you drive, there's alway someone else driving stupidly that you need to worry about. And if you suddenly need to brake hard, ABS will be able to react to the brakes locking up a million times faster than any human being can.
Alan, you are a very entertaining man. Cheers.
thanks rod
Sorry but after years of watching Eric O at South Main Auto, I just can't say "NAPA" without saying "Not a sponsor"
😂 They’re starting to make more of an appearance in the aftermarket over on these parts, aren’t they?
I was thinking the same thing
Me too! 😂
thats one of the best how to videos iv seen 👍
Brilliant mate !!
Like your style, and a lot of your sentiments are the same as mine !!
Give me a Rover 75 to work on any day.
Far easier than any of these Euro trash boxes 🤠
BTW my Launch 431 scanner will give an implausible signal for most ABS bearings which have bits corroded or missing.
On live data the speed of the suspect wheel will be erratic 👍✅
Excellent video, great tip about heating the bolt first, thanks for this, god dang spline bits!!!! 😂
My vw cc had exactly the same problem even the same wheel. And the bolt was as tight. Had to put a scaffolding pole on the breaker bar too. I think I'll try a bit heat if the other side fails. 🤞
Good job Alan👍🙂
Allen
I think you got of very lucky be heating that bolt up mate I do not like those type of bolts oyou can easily strip the thread by slpping of has that was si tight great video
Phil in stoke
snappy job mate. Now would be good to see how to change a heater core. Cheers.
Hi another great video as always kind regards
Great video as usual alan👍👍👍
Thanks 👍james
i learned a lot here, thank you. i need one of them damn heat guns
Thanks Alan. I will give it go.
I have a VW Transporter t5.1 I had the same with my van spline bolts are a pain. Be careful not to round them off as Well. On the T5 they used bolts. Too over engineered. To do the front suspension on my van I had to remove the air box and scuttle panel as well.
Done a couple of them, it’s horrid doing the 180 it genuinely feels like something will break ! I’d always use a new bolt.
I'm shocked at how badly corroded the entire underbody of relatively new cars are in many parts of the world. Where I live there is practically zero corrosion on 20+ year old cars. A bit of body rust but nothing more.
Depends where you live I guess….. Salt = Bad day
Hello Alan interesting vid this. I have to say that i really dont get why people like VAG cars. After owning a Polo for some considerable time, the parts are expensive and harder to work on.
I once had an A reg Escort that i bought 3rd or 4th hand circa 1992 , i got it cheap coz it ran poorly, as the spring in the carbon contact in the distributor cap was sticking. I put a new exhaust and battery on it and aside from a pair of tyres that car ran for 5 years without costing a penny, aside from oil and filters. It never failed to start either. The Polo we swapped it for used to cost on average £500 a year one way or another. Though back then i used to work on cars myself as they were simple to work on. Tend to stick to Ford , even though they are as complicated to work on nowadays as any massed produced car.
Drive well but their reliability ain't what it used to be...
HI Alan, are sensors just on the rear wheels? And would you replace all sensors or just the faulty ones?
Very interesting video! Thanks Al. But where’s Monika today?? She adds another “dimension” to your vids!
Hi Alan, love your videos, please can you tell me what is the correct time or mileage for a cam belt change on a Ford Focus 1.6 TDCi thanks :)
Excellent
How did you determine and or narrow down which of the four sensors was bad?
I did the front springs on my Zafira B. I ended up having to replace the dampers as well. Why? because the torx slot on the top of the strut rusts and rounds off so you can’t undo the strut nut. The way I got round it was to use mole grips on the strut to undo nut hence new damper. So I understand things are NEVER straight forward
yes i have had the same and had to replace the lot, nightmare, cheers roadkill
On a GTI you have to remove the carrier, the bolts are a pain to get to , and you guessed splines!!
Thanks
thankyou phil
Alan. Short to plus. On Cyl 2. Moved my coils and sparks around. Didn’t followed. Stayed with Cyl2. Would this be a sticky burnt out valve do you think ?? Thanks 😅
could be a faulty fuel injector but would be best to do a compression test on the cylinders
@@alan4x oh yes of course. Thanks Alan. Forget. Test compression. Work from there. Thanks. Dan
Alan, wonder if you can help again !!!! CHEERS - I've pulled Injector rail and swapped INJ 2 across to 3, ( Injector 2 definately been recently changed, 1 and 3 looked much older ); Code read and still Short to Plus Cyl2 still running very rough. I'm waiting on compression test box mate but in meantime whilst I'm definately thinkng Valve problem Cyl2 could this be 'Non-Coded' Injector , symptoms are bad misfire enough flash EML, can stutter need turning off/on lights get going again over 1750 rpm max.... However this will drive 20 miles 77 mph happily on a 3Cyl Fox. Can it do this with a bad valve??? Cheers Dan
Good info,good cars as a rule BUT when you go to fix sumthin it's always more difficult that it should be.🤣 PS.Where'z Monica??
yes i know the feeling to well, monika will be in the next vid😁, cheers william
Alan, there is always option C. It involves 10 litres of petrol and a match....
lol
Omg, new bearing in that rust bucket. That should of been cleaned, painted, new disk protection, if you want the car in a good condition!
3:39 you do it wrony you must support the axle of the wrench on the ground. withou it you loose part of force
10:80 180 nm? That bolt has thread locker on it. It’s not coming loose.
How Du !!!!! What’s going down in Alconbury.
I’ve a MAP ThermoStat. It won’t open. The B won’t open. Changed it twice. And both temp sensors. And water pump works. And it cannot be head gasket. It boils over pressurises as coolant doesn’t travel through RAD
Any idea !! Cheers. Oh can drive it thermo out fine. It’s boxed my head in !!!!!!
Alan you’re the man. Bet you’ve half an idea. Garage said it likely early H Gasket. I dissagree. Car went in only for crankcase oil leak came out a pressure cooker. Oh For the love of used car sales had 17 years of it. Started to attempt fix cars. Never done this till had a fire waiting new premises. Having a mess myself
@P Mc thanks. So that’s like an open circuit. I apologise for being dumb. I’ve considered bad wiring bad ecu. How would voltage drop out from circuit. With thanks. Quite enjoyed getting more mechanical. Or M&E. Limited success. Hacks and Bodges success. Sorting properly with zero mechanical know how bar YT videos been hard.
My understanding is that any bolt that requires angular torque is a one use "stretch bolt'. Why splines? What is wrong with a hex bolt?
vw making it difficult for diy mechanics
@@alan4x . I liked your hot air gun trick. Bit safer than a naked flame...
@@charlesdale1462 lol, i usually use the hot air gun to heat up crankshaft bolts that are in very tight without getting the crank pulley or anything around it too hot
@@alan4x . Thanks for the tip. I hear that Honda bolts can work themselves in very tight. Regards Charles
👍👍 See you in the next one (no cooking) sorry. What about more Drone footage. 👍👍
According to a study, a man who knows how to cook is smarter than those who dont😉
@@khenalan1022 very true 👍
put the locking wheel nut key back in the car? drove 5 miles into town for parts and back with it inserted into its wheel nut before I realised I made that mistake, but luckily it was still in place!
that was lucky, lol
Okay so I wasn't wrong about 180 degrees. I managed to tighten mine this much with the help from a friend and a very long iron pipe. I thought something was going to break during the process
You still with taxi place ?
Im chasing a abs fault changed wheel bearing cable even abs module , working on a bmw E90
It’s likely to be ring on the driveshaft. It’s a common fault on the e90s.
@@torquesteer2657 i never thought to check rear ring because fault codes only said ,No message transmitter receiver abs , airbag fault codes caused by abs. I did get increment gear fault code
Why didn't you just use an impact gun to get the bolt off? I know the VW factory data says not to use an impact, but that's because the official VAG socket for that bolt is not impact-rated. Yours is.
Hi, can this fault make a car jark
has it melted the loctite
Hey Alan, is there a way we can contact you? Just need a few questions answered and some advice please :)
When ever my car is going in for any work at all, I always leave the locking nut and book pack on the passenger seat... and the car is always emptied for easy access everywhere including the boot - it astounds me that there are so many people who don't bother!
Wish there were more people like you....I've taken longer to empty a door pocket and get the door card off than it took to change the check strap,,🙄
Don't have to remove wiper motors. Next!
So …. Nothing really about changing the rear wheel sensor itself then. ..? 🙄
One bolt, crappy Star drive head and all that thread?
Well done VW, teamed up with Ministry of Shit Design.......
lol, yes they did😂
Mitsubishi abs sensors are a right b*****d and bloody pricey as ***k
Hi
get your safety boots on and who uses a tube to remove things HSE would love you