I bought a 2006 2500 5.9 Cummins 3 months ago. 237k miles when I bought it. The front end is shot but I have all the parts for a complete front end rebuild. Good parts too. Install a Little at a time. The truck has the stock trans with a tune switch so I gotta get a built trans and be prepared cuz it’ll go out in the next 6 months probably. It’s slipping. I’ll slap a ranch hand on it. Interior is good dash isn’t cracked. The only thing is it’s dirty and stained on the cloth seats. Detail would take care of that. But yea man these trucks are cool and with proper maintenance and some replacement parts here and there you can see 600k miles out these trucks.
@@johnsosa6660 That’s awesome!! It’s a shame the front suspension wasn’t built to last but it sounds like you’ll fix it up right and be all set! 💪🏽 Yikes! I know the transmission in this one is a ticking time bomb too but hopefully it’ll hold out until i fix other stuff first lol! That’s super rare to find one without a destroyed dash and it sounds like a little carpet cleaner and a carpet extractor will have er’ looking good again. Amen to that! I plan to keep on the maintenance and preemptively upgrade where I can.
You could solve and fix half of your 'body issues' with a flatbed. Go find yourself a decent 'used flat bed' there everywhere, especially out in the flat country and farm/ ranch land. Heck you can get a brand new b&m flatbed or a basic non-skirted flatbed from Layton truck for $1500. You can add all the lights and boxes yourself. I'd ditch that bed, it's hammered, rusted and beat. If you can find a black short bed then great. They ain't cheap, $3k or so from a used parts yard. If you get one that's a different color you're easily looking at least $1000 bucks to get it color matched and sprayed, then you might as well paint the other half to haha. With a flat bed it's done and done. No more bedsides to worry about getting scratched. And most come with a gooseneck ball hitch and a bumper hitch. I had a first gen 12v reg cab 5 speed truck that I built and had to all souped up, was a straight clean rust free way truck, The oe bed was just falling apart at the seams literally. The tailgate pivot mounts were broken off, and the seams were splitting on the bed and sheet metal cracking. Any rust free first gen bed is worth some money to someone who's willing to fix spot welds, being rust free is the big thing. So unsold to w oe bed for $1000 And went and found a complete running '74 ford dent wide high boy or what ever they're called now days. It had a nice b&m flat bed on it, with headache rack, side rails, goose kneck ball and class 5 hitch all built in, price $800 and being a trailer with a winch lol. I took the flatbed off the ford, put it on my first gen Cummins truck, and then sold the old ford running without a bed for $2k. Haha so I made money and got a free flatbed. I'd try and do the same thing if I were you. Sometimes you can find used flatbed take offs. But your best bet to get a smoking deal and get ahead is find a complete running or non running truck with a flatbed on it, take the flatbed and then sell the cab/chassis truck running or not, running and you make money, make sense? Flat beds are nice. I miss my flatbed truck. It was nice having a table with you every where you went! Your truck always becomes the 'table' out camping, or the 'workbench' our in the field. Options and accessories you can add or mount are endless, a bench vice, a small hydraulic shop crane, under tool boxes. The best place for stuff like boxes is a place called 'Layton truck'. There's one in conspiring co. I'm not sure if there anywhere else around the country. Or any decent trailer sales yard, or ranch supply. Murdochs and tractor supply has some decent boxes. They can get a little pricey. But install is easy? Just bolt them on. Make sure you use ny-loc nuts so nothing rattles loose. Convert all the headache rack lights, and tail lights to sealed leds. If it doesn't have side marker lights there's these cool Little 1/2"-3/4" round orange led lights yiu can put just about anywhere. Just drill a little hole, slip in the rubber grommet and push in the light. Real easy to wire up 3-4 down a side in series with each other and parallel to your marker lights. On my first gen flatbed cummins I mounted a small at. Winch that I got at harbor freight, was like a 2k atv/ SxS winch, was pretty inexpensive. I mounted it up on the headache rack above the throes high mounted brake light. I noticed out part of the headache rack and welded in a winch mount plate, it looked like it was factory built that way when I was done! But I did that little winch up there to help winch a big well up onto the flatbed by myself if I'm ever in the position. Just hook the hook thru back leg archelues tendon and drag it on up a piece of ply wood ontop of the atv ramps! Hauling an atv was pretty cool to cause you could park it on the flatbed sideways and have some room out back for coolers still. Having a flatbed just opens up a lot of doors for neat things, a lot less things to worry about like denting sheet Metal and scratching paint and clear coat. A flatbed you can just touch it up with a can of gloss black .99 cent spray paint from Walmart lol!
I bought my 04 lb7 dmax just over 200k miles ext cab 4x4 for 9500 had new injectors put in was a strong truck but need lots of suspension and cosmetic work 4500$ later she’s running and driving like new ! Still cheaper than the new stuff
@@dustingreer807 That’s awesome!! You’ll have to make some videos of it so I can check it out. I hope to get this fixed up like you did to yours. That’s for dang sure! Building an older truck will be way cheaper than spending $70k on a new truck, aaaand NO monthly payments! 🙌🏽
@@Riflehunter-308 Hell yeah, it’s a good a time as any to get one. Especially if you can find one that was decently taken care of lol. That’s awesome! Infantry lead the way! 🫡I was in from 2013-2016 and at Ft Campbell. How long have you been in for?
@d.williams6891 Been at my first station for a year and a half trying to come back to the states after this and goto tech school for welding did a little bit of welding before I joined.
@@JustinSchooler-f2j Thank you, and it sure is! You can do so much to these 24 valves. Haha, yeah that early Mopar paint just wasn’t made to last. How long have you owned yours for?
There is a spray paint they use out in the oil fields (I meant oil fields where I’m from off shore jack up rigs )it has something in it that sorta (kills) rust it works really good you can just degrease the undercarriage knock down any rust with a wire brush and clean/paint awesome find
@@Justthemow Thank you, and that sounds extremely useful! Thankfully I don’t have to worry about road salt here but I want to keep it from general weather deterioration. Do you know what the name of it is by chance? I’m familiar with Fluid Film but I’ve read mixed reviews on if it’s worth the effort.
@@MsMrhawk Thank you! 🙌🏽 That’s awesome. What year and model do you have? I wanted a 2500 but couldn’t find a decent one that had less than 350k miles lol.
On another note, make sure you on your transmission cooler, delete and bypass the little thermostat that's in the trans cooler. There's a little snap ring you take out, it's on the side of the trans cooler, you'll see it. What it does is it's a thermostat that opens when the trans fluid reaches a certain temp. It's ment to help your trans warm up faster in cold climates. But the problem is they fail. They all fail in the 'closed' position to. Which will cause your trend to over heat because it's not circulating thru the trans cooler! It's a stupid design. You take the snap ring out, and there's a cap that comes off and you pull the little thermostat thingie out and put the cap back in with the snap ring. The best thing you could do is upgrade and get a aftermarket mishimoto trans cooler and fleece performance flexible 1/2" trans cooler lines with AN fittings. The stock oe mopar hard trans cooler lines are junk. They all end up leaking. The fleece performance lines are the hot ticket. They're bigger so that means better flow and more fluid. The mishimoto trans cooler is like doh bow the size of the factory oe cooler to, and twice as thick! Put the best money you can into your trans and trans cooler, keeping the trans cooler will make it last. Heat is the number one killer of transmissions. A big deep sump pan it's a good thing to have on your trans as well. More fluid is always better. I've seen vids on the mishimoto trans cooler and fleece performance trans cooler lines kit lowering trans temps by 15-20 degrees. Easily it's money well spent. But at least just pull that stupid thermostat out of the oe trans cooler before it fails and you cook your trans fluid. All it takes is one time! There's all sorts of utube vids you can look up and watch. The fass looks good! The reason your seeing the filters hang down so much is your running the bigger longer larger CAT filters. Which is good. The cat filters are the best ones to run. They filter down to like 1-2 microns. The larger bigger filter size means double the filter media to. You can climb under and loosen the bolts of the fass brackets and slide it up. It's adjustable, the brackets mounting the fass to the body mount are slotted the whole length of the bracket, so there's plenty of adjustment to move it up. Also k noticed that your water/fuel sep is in the front, and the main filter is in the rear. Homely it's just cause the pump itself is mount flipped around the other way on the bracket, and the filters not out on backwards. I can't remember if th ere different thread/ hole sizes the main filter to the water/ fuel separator. I bet the entire thing is just mounted and bolted to the bracket backwards. Casue on mine and every other truck I've ever done and installed one on or seen has the water/ fuel separator mounted tears the rear of the truck, and the main filter mounted tears a the front of the truck. If you don't have a bottom tank mounted sump feeding the fass i would get one. It's the best thing to use. Bonfire sloshing issues like with draw straw. Get one of the dual port sumps like the one from beans machine diesel. The dual port sumps are the hot ticket. The 2nd port can be used as a fuel return or used as a fuel 'line in' from an aux tank in the bed. And the fuel will gravity feed into the main tank. And when it's full it'll stop. As the fuel level naturally drops form usage it'll gravity feed in as needed keeping the main tank full all the time. It's the truck setup. It's what I did on mine!
@@Moose400ex You my friend are a wealth of knowledge! Your truck on your profile pic is super clean too!! 🇺🇸 I’ve used the info you’ve posted to make a bunch of notes in my phone on stuff to look into, so thank you very much! 🤘🏾 Having a flatbed does sound really cool for all those exact reasons you mentioned; it’s something I’m seriously considering. I’m hoping to check out a few promising short beds at a salvage yard that’s about 1 1/2 hours away from me, but I’m certainly going to keep my options open. I’m going to check into this as well, because I want to make this transmission last as long as I can until I can get some other stuff fixed first!
I just picked up a super high mileage 03 2500 for 8200. runs like a top. needs a front driveshaft and interior. cant find a running one for under 10k here in west texas!
@@justaguyintexas That sounds like you found a great deal!! As long as the motor and transmission are doing well everything else can be fixed. That was my exact same experience. My budget was $10k and during my months of searching I kept seeing people selling second and third gens with 350k+ miles and they all seemed to need trailered/towed and were generally non running.
A 20 year old truck! Isn't that kinda crazy to think. It's not what I think of when I think of a '20 year old truck' lol. I have a 2002 ram 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 6 speed manual 24v HO Cummins, only 100k miles. '02 is the year I graduated high school. But it's crazy to think '20 somethin' year old truck' lol. LMC truck is the place to go for secound snd theirs gen dodge ram interior stuff. LMC has new seat cover cushions and covers that match the oe cloth material. Just get you a dash mat to cover those cracks, it ain't that bad yet, wouldn't be in a hurry to throw money at a new dash top yet, wait till you have a reason to take the dash apart like to replace a heater core or something, then it'll defiantly crack and fall to pieces l, that's when you get a new dash top for sure, but for now just cover it with a dash mat thing that's made for a third gen, there like $20 bucks. LMC has OE replacement carpet kits, they ain't expensive. I recreated one of my Chevy k1500 z72 trucks years ago with la black carpet kit from LMC. Doubble up the under carpet insulation tho for sure, you can buy that jute sound deadening heat insulation material in bulk rolls. It'll defiantly help quiet down the cab and get rid of the exhaust drone in the cab you get on long highway trips. The carpet kits arw precut and everything pre marked out, minor trimming and 'massaging' is all I had to do, it fit great and made it oook and smell like a brand new truck again! Was deff worth the $200 or whatever. You could do a viynal floor kit too, they sell those as well. Prolly cheaper than carpet, but I dunno. The trick to installing the black viynal rubber floor kit is set it out in the hot sun on some hot asphalt in the afternoon sun for a couple hours and let it soften up and the heat will smooth out any creases from being folded during shipping. With it warmed up and softened and plyable it'll be easier to install and take shape on the floor. Them vinyal floor kits are pre molded to the shape of the floor. Use the good 3M car interior spray adhesive. Don't use the cheap spray adhesive, it won't hold. Ask me how I know! The speakers in the front doors are supposed to be 6x9 speakers. Get on Amazon and get you an average priced pair of 6x9's. $30-$40 range, like some jbl, pioneer, or what ever, or go to Wally mart. It'll sound so much better! The factory oe paper cone 6x9's were junk, even with the 'factory infinity' sound package they were still paper cone junk! I put some nice Polk audio speakers in my '06 mega cab 3rd gen I had before the '02 24v HO 6 speed I have now. It was black, and an automatic, I had it all souped up and built. I sold it tho, the mag cab was cool, even the back seats reclined and a center console folded down out of the back seat with cup holders. It was cool you could fold down the back seats, and there was enough room back there to inflate a full Sized air mattress back there and sleep 2 people easily. I did that a few times driving across country. Made a nice cozy sleeper and had plenty of space for the air mattress! I love my 2nd gen tho. I've always had manual transmissions, the '06 mega cab was the only automatic I've ever had. And I had a $9500 billet thru and thru stage 5 transmission built for that thing, ripple Lock torque converter, the works and everything. The nv5600 6 speed in my '02 is bullet proof. It's the way to go. I considered manual g56 swapping my '06 black mega cab, but got talked out of it. It would of costed about the same to Manual g56 swap it vs a built billet thru and thru bullet proofed 47re trans.
Don't know what you're planning on using the truck for, but personally id try to find another bed or even flat bed it. The wrinkles in it would be extremely hard to fix without lots of bondo lol. Curious to see what else you do down the road with it, i also own a 04 Cummins with the 48re.
@@acesonflush346 Thanks for dropping by! 🤘🏾My main workhorse is my 2015 F250 that’ll be used for towing a future travel trailer so I’m kind of thinking of making this my fancy daily lol. Oh absolutely! I figured it would cost more in parts and time to fix this one than get one from a scrap yard in decent shape lol. That’s awesome! How long have you had yours for? I’ve researched a lot of info on the 48RE so I’m hoping it’ll treat me okay for a while until I need to rebuild or get an aftermarket one.
@@d.williams6891 Sorry to get back to you so late, but my 48re has treated me perfectly fine for a long time. I've never been one to tow heavy or race from every stop sign though, and I've also never left it on a hot tune for long periods of time. Though it has treated me good for the 20,000 miles of ownership i have had it. The 48 has decided to give me some troubles recently, I have a 2nd gear flair shift. Could just need a band adjustment or have low shift pressure. Hell it could even just be getting worn out and will need some sort of rebuild soon. I also have no idea how many miles are on this trans, was owned by an older gentleman for a while but he was the second owner. Also for context my truck has 265k on it, hopefully the fix for the trans is simple and something I can do myself. Hopefully your trans holds up good, I personally think the 48re is decent despite my random issues. So hopefully yours keeps trucking along and wont give you issues.
Bought an 04 160000 miles. Lots of rust replacing all 4 doors and bed with a new paint job bumpers mirros and auto steps. Wheels and tires. 21500.00 including truck. New cummins 90000.00. Just saying
@@TroyDavidson-q7d Thanks for stopping by Troy! Haha, that would make sense! The paint gouges start on the roof, lined up perfectly with the crack on the windshield and ended at the damage on the hood. 😆 I do think someone was using this thing as a ranch truck lol.
Drive it til it dies! Unless... you have a fairly deep wallet. I don't want to discourage you! You buy a truck that's hillbillyed out. IT'S BEEN BEAT ON!! HARD.
@@REALITY6.7L Haha! I definitely agree - someone put this thing through the wringer, but I’m hoping to give it a second life a few parts at a time! So far all the parts I’ve bought and put on have been much cheaper than buying cool stuff for my 15’ 2Fiddy, so I’m keeping my hopes up for now lol.
@@03f250 No my friend, I paid $7k cash for it. She’s a little rough for sure, but I couldn’t find anything after months of searching that met my criteria for less than $10k and had less than 350k miles on it. 🥴
@ That’s true, the motor is tried and true, if only I can prevent the body from falling apart lol! My main and first love is my 15’ 250, but I had to get a road tractor to work on.
Hello, "D. Williams" I was analyzing your channel and saw that in your channel have some problem, That's why your channel is not much growing and not getting much engagement, If you can solve these problems, Your channel will grow like a storm. If you tell I can tell these problems. Where can I tell? Here or ig or where?
I bought a 2006 2500 5.9 Cummins 3 months ago. 237k miles when I bought it. The front end is shot but I have all the parts for a complete front end rebuild. Good parts too. Install a Little at a time. The truck has the stock trans with a tune switch so I gotta get a built trans and be prepared cuz it’ll go out in the next 6 months probably. It’s slipping. I’ll slap a ranch hand on it. Interior is good dash isn’t cracked. The only thing is it’s dirty and stained on the cloth seats. Detail would take care of that. But yea man these trucks are cool and with proper maintenance and some replacement parts here and there you can see 600k miles out these trucks.
@@johnsosa6660 That’s awesome!! It’s a shame the front suspension wasn’t built to last but it sounds like you’ll fix it up right and be all set! 💪🏽 Yikes! I know the transmission in this one is a ticking time bomb too but hopefully it’ll hold out until i fix other stuff first lol! That’s super rare to find one without a destroyed dash and it sounds like a little carpet cleaner and a carpet extractor will have er’ looking good again. Amen to that! I plan to keep on the maintenance and preemptively upgrade where I can.
Congratulations on your purchase. Nice looking truck. I'm a Mopar fan myself. You can't go wrong with cummins truck! 👏👏👏👍👍👍❤️❤️❤️🛻🛻🛻
@@ganboldbayantsagaan2560 Thank you thank you! 🙌🏽 Absolutely! I’ve wanted one of these for a long time! 😄
Allso have 02 custom built camping rig. 300000 miles runs like a champ
You could solve and fix half of your 'body issues' with a flatbed. Go find yourself a decent 'used flat bed' there everywhere, especially out in the flat country and farm/ ranch land.
Heck you can get a brand new b&m flatbed or a basic non-skirted flatbed from Layton truck for $1500. You can add all the lights and boxes yourself.
I'd ditch that bed, it's hammered, rusted and beat.
If you can find a black short bed then great. They ain't cheap, $3k or so from a used parts yard.
If you get one that's a different color you're easily looking at least $1000 bucks to get it color matched and sprayed, then you might as well paint the other half to haha. With a flat bed it's done and done. No more bedsides to worry about getting scratched. And most come with a gooseneck ball hitch and a bumper hitch. I had a first gen 12v reg cab 5 speed truck that I built and had to all souped up, was a straight clean rust free way truck, The oe bed was just falling apart at the seams literally. The tailgate pivot mounts were broken off, and the seams were splitting on the bed and sheet metal cracking. Any rust free first gen bed is worth some money to someone who's willing to fix spot welds, being rust free is the big thing. So unsold to w oe bed for $1000
And went and found a complete running '74 ford dent wide high boy or what ever they're called now days. It had a nice b&m flat bed on it, with headache rack, side rails, goose kneck ball and class 5 hitch all built in, price $800 and being a trailer with a winch lol.
I took the flatbed off the ford, put it on my first gen Cummins truck, and then sold the old ford running without a bed for $2k. Haha so I made money and got a free flatbed. I'd try and do the same thing if I were you. Sometimes you can find used flatbed take offs. But your best bet to get a smoking deal and get ahead is find a complete running or non running truck with a flatbed on it, take the flatbed and then sell the cab/chassis truck running or not, running and you make money, make sense?
Flat beds are nice. I miss my flatbed truck. It was nice having a table with you every where you went! Your truck always becomes the 'table' out camping, or the 'workbench' our in the field. Options and accessories you can add or mount are endless, a bench vice, a small hydraulic shop crane, under tool boxes. The best place for stuff like boxes is a place called 'Layton truck'. There's one in conspiring co. I'm not sure if there anywhere else around the country. Or any decent trailer sales yard, or ranch supply. Murdochs and tractor supply has some decent boxes. They can get a little pricey. But install is easy? Just bolt them on. Make sure you use ny-loc nuts so nothing rattles loose. Convert all the headache rack lights, and tail lights to sealed leds. If it doesn't have side marker lights there's these cool
Little 1/2"-3/4" round orange led lights yiu can put just about anywhere. Just drill a little hole, slip in the rubber grommet and push in the light. Real easy to wire up 3-4 down a side in series with each other and parallel to your marker lights.
On my first gen flatbed cummins I mounted a small at. Winch that I got at harbor freight, was like a 2k atv/ SxS winch, was pretty inexpensive. I mounted it up on the headache rack above the throes high mounted brake light. I noticed out part of the headache rack and welded in a winch mount plate, it looked like it was factory built that way when I was done! But I did that little winch up there to help winch a big well up onto the flatbed by myself if I'm ever in the position. Just hook the hook thru back leg archelues tendon and drag it on up a piece of ply wood ontop of the atv ramps!
Hauling an atv was pretty cool to cause you could park it on the flatbed sideways and have some room out back for coolers still. Having a flatbed just opens up a lot of doors for neat things, a lot less things to worry about like denting sheet
Metal and scratching paint and clear coat. A flatbed you can just touch it up with a can of gloss black .99 cent spray paint from Walmart lol!
I bought my 04 lb7 dmax just over 200k miles ext cab 4x4 for 9500 had new injectors put in was a strong truck but need lots of suspension and cosmetic work 4500$ later she’s running and driving like new ! Still cheaper than the new stuff
@@dustingreer807 That’s awesome!! You’ll have to make some videos of it so I can check it out. I hope to get this fixed up like you did to yours. That’s for dang sure! Building an older truck will be way cheaper than spending $70k on a new truck, aaaand NO monthly payments! 🙌🏽
Definitely got ripped off
@ Ouch! 😂
Interested to see how this trucks turns out. Subscribed. Good luck
@@LoneWolf-cf5tp Thank you so much! 🤘🏾 I have a lot of ideas and plans for it.
14:36 those are from a mega ram
@@Justthemow Ahhh that makes sense, thank you for telling me! Mega cabs are really cool- I kinda wish this was a mega cab.
not bad wanting to buy a 3rd gen myself I looked at your channel im also in the army 11b.
@@Riflehunter-308 Hell yeah, it’s a good a time as any to get one. Especially if you can find one that was decently taken care of lol.
That’s awesome! Infantry lead the way! 🫡I was in from 2013-2016 and at Ft Campbell. How long have you been in for?
@d.williams6891 Been at my first station for a year and a half trying to come back to the states after this and goto tech school for welding did a little bit of welding before I joined.
Not a bad score, hard to beat a 3rd gen 👍 i have a 05 with 140,000 miles and the paint isn't much better lol
@@JustinSchooler-f2j Thank you, and it sure is! You can do so much to these 24 valves. Haha, yeah that early Mopar paint just wasn’t made to last. How long have you owned yours for?
There is a spray paint they use out in the oil fields (I meant oil fields where I’m from off shore jack up rigs )it has something in it that sorta (kills) rust it works really good you can just degrease the undercarriage knock down any rust with a wire brush and clean/paint awesome find
@@Justthemow Thank you, and that sounds extremely useful! Thankfully I don’t have to worry about road salt here but I want to keep it from general weather deterioration. Do you know what the name of it is by chance? I’m familiar with Fluid Film but I’ve read mixed reviews on if it’s worth the effort.
Looks like a highschool boy had fun with it. I'm lucky to have found a stock truck that hasn't been messed with by an idiot lol.
Nice 3rd gen project! I own 3rd gen also
@@MsMrhawk Thank you! 🙌🏽 That’s awesome. What year and model do you have? I wanted a 2500 but couldn’t find a decent one that had less than 350k miles lol.
@d.williams6891 2004.5 2500...6 speed manual
On another note, make sure you on your transmission cooler, delete and bypass the little thermostat that's in the trans cooler. There's a little snap ring you take out, it's on the side of the trans cooler, you'll see it. What it does is it's a thermostat that opens when the trans fluid reaches a certain temp. It's ment to help your trans warm up faster in cold climates. But the problem is they fail. They all fail in the 'closed' position to. Which will cause your trend to over heat because it's not circulating thru the trans cooler! It's a stupid design. You take the snap ring out, and there's a cap that comes off and you pull the little thermostat thingie out and put the cap back in with the snap ring. The best thing you could do is upgrade and get a aftermarket mishimoto trans cooler and fleece performance flexible 1/2" trans cooler lines with AN fittings.
The stock oe mopar hard trans cooler lines are junk. They all end up leaking. The fleece performance lines are the hot ticket. They're bigger so that means better flow and more fluid. The mishimoto trans cooler is like doh bow the size of the factory oe cooler to, and twice as thick! Put the best money you can into your trans and trans cooler, keeping the trans cooler will make it last. Heat is the number one killer of transmissions. A big deep sump pan it's a good thing to have on your trans as well. More fluid is always better. I've seen vids on the mishimoto trans cooler and fleece performance trans cooler lines kit lowering trans temps by 15-20 degrees. Easily it's money well spent. But at least just pull that stupid thermostat out of the oe trans cooler before it fails and you cook your trans fluid. All it takes is one time! There's all sorts of utube vids you can look up and watch.
The fass looks good! The reason your seeing the filters hang down so much is your running the bigger longer larger CAT filters. Which is good. The cat filters are the best ones to run. They filter down to like 1-2 microns. The larger bigger filter size means double the filter media to. You can climb under and loosen the bolts of the fass brackets and slide it up. It's adjustable, the brackets mounting the fass to the body mount are slotted the whole length of the bracket, so there's plenty of adjustment to move it up. Also k noticed that your water/fuel sep is in the front, and the main filter is in the rear. Homely it's just cause the pump itself is mount flipped around the other way on the bracket, and the filters not out on backwards. I can't remember if th ere different thread/ hole sizes the main filter to the water/ fuel separator.
I bet the entire thing is just mounted and bolted to the bracket backwards. Casue on mine and every other truck I've ever done and installed one on or seen has the water/ fuel separator mounted tears the rear of the truck, and the main filter mounted tears a the front of the truck.
If you don't have a bottom tank mounted sump feeding the fass i would get one. It's the best thing to use. Bonfire sloshing issues like with draw straw. Get one of the dual port sumps like the one from beans machine diesel. The dual port sumps are the hot ticket. The 2nd port can be used as a fuel return or used as a fuel 'line in' from an aux tank in the bed. And the fuel will gravity feed into the main tank. And when it's full it'll stop. As the fuel level naturally drops form usage it'll gravity feed in as needed keeping the main tank full all the time. It's the truck setup. It's what I did on mine!
@@Moose400ex You my friend are a wealth of knowledge! Your truck on your profile pic is super clean too!! 🇺🇸 I’ve used the info you’ve posted to make a bunch of notes in my phone on stuff to look into, so thank you very much! 🤘🏾 Having a flatbed does sound really cool for all those exact reasons you mentioned; it’s something I’m seriously considering. I’m hoping to check out a few promising short beds at a salvage yard that’s about 1 1/2 hours away from me, but I’m certainly going to keep my options open. I’m going to check into this as well, because I want to make this transmission last as long as I can until I can get some other stuff fixed first!
I just picked up a super high mileage 03 2500 for 8200. runs like a top. needs a front driveshaft and interior. cant find a running one for under 10k here in west texas!
@@justaguyintexas That sounds like you found a great deal!! As long as the motor and transmission are doing well everything else can be fixed. That was my exact same experience. My budget was $10k and during my months of searching I kept seeing people selling second and third gens with 350k+ miles and they all seemed to need trailered/towed and were generally non running.
A 20 year old truck! Isn't that kinda crazy to think. It's not what I think of when I think of a '20 year old truck' lol. I have a 2002 ram 2500 ext cab long bed 4x4 6 speed manual 24v HO Cummins, only 100k miles.
'02 is the year I graduated high school. But it's crazy to think '20 somethin' year old truck' lol.
LMC truck is the place to go for secound snd theirs gen dodge ram interior stuff. LMC has new seat cover cushions and covers that match the oe cloth material. Just get you a dash mat to cover those cracks, it ain't that bad yet, wouldn't be in a hurry to throw money at a new dash top yet, wait till you have a reason to take the dash apart like to replace a heater core or something, then it'll defiantly crack and fall to pieces l, that's when you get a new dash top for sure, but for now just cover it with a dash mat thing that's made for a third gen, there like $20 bucks.
LMC has OE replacement carpet kits, they ain't expensive. I recreated one of my Chevy k1500 z72 trucks years ago with la black carpet kit from
LMC. Doubble up the under carpet insulation tho for sure, you can buy that jute sound deadening heat insulation material in bulk rolls. It'll defiantly help quiet down the cab and get rid of the exhaust drone in the cab you get on long highway trips.
The carpet kits arw precut and everything pre marked out, minor trimming and 'massaging' is all I had to do, it fit great and made it oook and smell like a brand new truck again! Was deff worth the $200 or whatever. You could do a viynal floor kit too, they sell those as well. Prolly cheaper than carpet, but I dunno. The trick to installing the black viynal rubber floor kit is set it out in the hot sun on some hot asphalt in the afternoon sun for a couple hours and let it soften up and the heat will smooth out any creases from being folded during shipping. With it warmed up and softened and plyable it'll be easier to install and take shape on the floor. Them vinyal floor kits are pre molded to the shape of the floor. Use the good 3M car interior spray adhesive. Don't use the cheap spray adhesive, it won't hold. Ask me how I know!
The speakers in the front doors are supposed to be 6x9 speakers. Get on Amazon and get you an average priced pair of 6x9's. $30-$40 range, like some jbl, pioneer, or what ever, or go to Wally mart. It'll sound so much better! The factory oe paper cone 6x9's were junk, even with the 'factory infinity' sound package they were still paper cone junk! I put some nice Polk audio speakers in my '06 mega cab 3rd gen I had before the '02 24v HO 6 speed I have now. It was black, and an automatic, I had it all souped up and built. I sold it tho, the mag cab was cool, even the back seats reclined and a center console folded down out of the back seat with cup holders. It was cool you could fold down the back seats, and there was enough room back there to inflate a full
Sized air mattress back there and sleep 2 people easily. I did that a few times driving across country. Made a nice cozy sleeper and had plenty of space for the air mattress! I love my 2nd gen tho. I've always had manual transmissions, the '06 mega cab was the only automatic I've ever had. And I had a $9500 billet thru and thru stage 5 transmission built for that thing, ripple
Lock torque converter, the works and everything. The nv5600 6 speed in my '02 is bullet proof. It's the way to go. I considered manual g56 swapping my '06 black mega cab, but got talked out of it. It would of costed about the same to
Manual g56 swap it vs a built billet thru and thru bullet proofed 47re trans.
Don't know what you're planning on using the truck for, but personally id try to find another bed or even flat bed it. The wrinkles in it would be extremely hard to fix without lots of bondo lol. Curious to see what else you do down the road with it, i also own a 04 Cummins with the 48re.
@@acesonflush346 Thanks for dropping by! 🤘🏾My main workhorse is my 2015 F250 that’ll be used for towing a future travel trailer so I’m kind of thinking of making this my fancy daily lol. Oh absolutely! I figured it would cost more in parts and time to fix this one than get one from a scrap yard in decent shape lol. That’s awesome! How long have you had yours for? I’ve researched a lot of info on the 48RE so I’m hoping it’ll treat me okay for a while until I need to rebuild or get an aftermarket one.
@@d.williams6891 Sorry to get back to you so late, but my 48re has treated me perfectly fine for a long time. I've never been one to tow heavy or race from every stop sign though, and I've also never left it on a hot tune for long periods of time. Though it has treated me good for the 20,000 miles of ownership i have had it. The 48 has decided to give me some troubles recently, I have a 2nd gear flair shift. Could just need a band adjustment or have low shift pressure. Hell it could even just be getting worn out and will need some sort of rebuild soon. I also have no idea how many miles are on this trans, was owned by an older gentleman for a while but he was the second owner. Also for context my truck has 265k on it, hopefully the fix for the trans is simple and something I can do myself. Hopefully your trans holds up good, I personally think the 48re is decent despite my random issues. So hopefully yours keeps trucking along and wont give you issues.
Looks like a little old man that was a cowboy owned it buy it😂
Bought an 04 160000 miles. Lots of rust replacing all 4 doors and bed with a new paint job bumpers mirros and auto steps. Wheels and tires. 21500.00 including truck. New cummins 90000.00. Just saying
That's from running throw a barb wire fence been there done it😂
@@TroyDavidson-q7d Thanks for stopping by Troy! Haha, that would make sense! The paint gouges start on the roof, lined up perfectly with the crack on the windshield and ended at the damage on the hood. 😆 I do think someone was using this thing as a ranch truck lol.
Drive it til it dies! Unless... you have a fairly deep wallet. I don't want to discourage you! You buy a truck that's hillbillyed out. IT'S BEEN BEAT ON!! HARD.
@@REALITY6.7L Haha! I definitely agree - someone put this thing through the wringer, but I’m hoping to give it a second life a few parts at a time! So far all the parts I’ve bought and put on have been much cheaper than buying cool stuff for my 15’ 2Fiddy, so I’m keeping my hopes up for now lol.
You spent 10k on that. Maybe to you but not to me I wouldn’t pay 3k for it
@@03f250 No my friend, I paid $7k cash for it. She’s a little rough for sure, but I couldn’t find anything after months of searching that met my criteria for less than $10k and had less than 350k miles on it. 🥴
@ you must love Cummins. Hey bro if you like it you like it. At least you know the motor is good
@ That’s true, the motor is tried and true, if only I can prevent the body from falling apart lol! My main and first love is my 15’ 250, but I had to get a road tractor to work on.
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