I’d be mainly doing short trips, so I’m not sure I’d be comfortable with going to 5K. I think I would invest in some oil analysis tests too. Those rigs are just so expensive.
I've watched numerous videos like these. This one has a lot of good advice. That said, few videos fully address the issue of idling a 2007+ MY vehicle to warm the engine. It is this: a diesel that is not at operating temperature is producing high quantities of particulates until it reaches operating temperature. Those particulates will go into the DPF, where it will eventually have to be burned off. On my Ford 6.7 Super Duty, the engine idling at operating temperature would fill the DPF at a rate of 5%-10% per hour, but would fill the DPF up to triple that rate at below operating temperature. Knowing this, my regimen in cold weather was to start the engine and, once the oil pressure was up, elevate the idle (I installed an elevated idle control--EIC--that would elevate the idle to 1,200 RPM on command) long enough to get the engine to about 100° F. temperature, then drive the truck at moderate RPM and load until the engine reached full operating temperature. At outside ambient temperatures below around 10°-15° F., I would use the block heater, though I found the block heater running all the time was not generally necessary in all but frigid temperatures--I had my block heater on a timer that would start it about 4 hours before I planned to drive the truck. Unless it was absolutely necessary, I would never extended idle the truck (for more than, say, 10-15 minutes); if I idled it for any longer than that, I would elevate the idle using the EIC. 2007+ MY diesel vehicles are just not fit to use as a short-trip grocery getter--that is just asking for emission system and engine problems. When I no longer needed my diesel Super Duty to use vocationally where it would usually run on longer trips, I traded it for a gasoline truck. I've owned and been around diesels for about a half-century and love them, but the modern emission control systems have made them expensive, often unreliable, and impractical for many uses. I still have a pre-2007 diesel vehicle that doesn't have all the emission system issues.
As an owner operator and business owner. I never ever excessively idle my Ram fleet. I also made a point. Between hauls if they were ever used for a short trip. I would routinely take them out on drives to do passive regen to clear the dpf. The rams have an automatic idle increase, even on my 2017, to help get up to operating temps faster. And the exhaust brake comes on automatically till oil temp reqcehes 160 F. For most starts, 30 seconds to a minute is the bare minimum id wait before moving, and then it's just low rpms and mild speeds until warm is done. Never let it idle for more than 10 minutes on warm-up. My percentage of idle in total operating hours is usually 10% to 20% of running hours.
@@danielmorris-ruckett913 if you're running gauges, you might be surprised at how hard it is to actually obtain a passive regen. Sustaining 900 F post DPF takes some long pulls on hills with a windsail behind the truck.
I live in Florida and yes, I idol my truck Since I heard Dave, I don’t even watch his videos anymore lol I got 430,000 miles on GMC and so far never been to the dealer for engine or transmission.
I am still old school mechanic and don’t even look at mileage. I go by hours which Cummins use to be around 400 hours. The only way you can include idling time as well as traveling.
That’s how we do industrial equipment. Typically manufacturers have different thresholds but typically 500-600 hours same for PMs, most fluids other than engine oil is annual
I agree with you 1000% I never go more than a max of 5000 miles on oil changes. It's easy to learn to do this service for oneself to save if that's a big issue. Oil changes are very cheap compared to the price of the vehicle and potential repairs.
When approaching from the POV of fuel and oil filters, it looks WAY expensive, but in fact, the oil filters are pretty cheap for modern trucks (less than 20 bucks). Am currently toying with idea of changing oil a day before changing the oil so as to help flush the trucks innards a bit better. It appears inarguable 10k miles for an oil change (per mfr) is just dumb.
@@MindFusion-ij1xlChanging oil twice is throwing money away. Every 5K is enough. Look into bypass filtration before you do that. Big trucks run centrifuges. Some folks do on pickups, but usually it's bypass filters.
A certified diesel tech with hundreds of diesel motor repairs under his belt.. once and for all, 15,000 mile oil intervals are NOT GOOD! , stop defending them because your cheap! GREAT VIDEO
Your info videos are in the top tier in all of you tube. Your easy going matter of fact demeanor grabs the viewers attention. I really appreciate your Journeyman level of expertise and knowledge...keep the vids coming. Oh and you and JB make a good team! Happy Holidays Sir!!
Thank you I have a 30 Duramax engine and what I have been doing is just starting up leaving it out I did not realize do IO higher how much you appreciate everything teacher sir very happy with watching your videos thank you so much God bless you and your family and Merry Christmas to you
In the older days, with our big trucks with Cats, my old man was adamant about 10K oil change intervals, and that was before EGR. Cat was onto something with pulling EGR after the DPF, which they called CGI, so at least there was a chance of dumping somewhat cleaner Exhaust Gasses back into the combustion cycle. Are any of the big-3 doing that with their EGR setups on the diesel pickups?
I am grateful you shared this video, thank you. I'll take all the helpful information I can get. Having a 5th gen and hearing and seeing all the Cummings failures over the past couple of years, has me concerned. Blessings guys.
While I agree with the warm up philosophy , and sane oil change intervals, I would posit that the #1 killer of modern diesels is EGR. Followed closely by PCV combining with the EGR soot. That's a nice feature on those Rams, cruise button steps up the idle. Wish my Ford had that.
As a result of your guidance (including your other videos) I tried "DRIVING IT LIKE I STOLE IT" for test purposes! GUESS WHAT! My plugged DPF, so unwilling to go into regen, WENT INTO REGEN before I got to the freeway, before it was warmed up, within four blocks of the house! I KNOW that is contradictory... however! All I had to do was MASH THAT THROTTLE a few times at stop signs, slow down, and (I estimate) the difference in back pressure, never seen because I drive to maximize fuel economy hauling or not, was sufficient to cause a ALMOST NEVER SEEN regen. I conclude (and invite your analysis) IF YOUR TRUCK IS BABIED TOO MUCH IT WON'T GO INTO REGEN. DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT (like a drunk teenager, I guess) every so often to initiate a regen! Do you have ANY idea how relieved I am? Drove 40 miles, and it completed regen, DPF is at zero percent. Thanks, thanks a LOT.
I just turned 220,000 on my 2006 duramax. I run 15 to 20 k oil changes,with filter change at 5000, but i also run a frantz bypass filter and pull an oil sample every 5,000 miles for a full workup. which includes tbn,coolant,fuel, and wear metals. I have been running shell rottela t6 since it came out in the 15w40 variety in northern wisconsin year round. Truck has had injectors replaced and head gaskets done at 132,000 only because the dealer broke a glow plug off in the head. The tech said the motor was too clean to have that many miles on it. I told him what i was running and doing, and he said, "Keep doing it"
Good information with the video. I'll ask about turning on the exhaust brake during warmup. Is that still recommended? Another thing that kills engine oil is short driving trips such as a few miles to the store or work. If the engine and the oil doesn't get hot enough the contaminants don't burn or evaporate out of the oil. I don't drive my Diesel pickup during the winter unless I know it will be driven far enough to get hot enough for the oil, exhaust system, and a good engine warm up. I do have my block heater plugged in to a timer that is set up to turn on about 4 hours before starting and that definitely helps warm up faster. Keep the videos coming Josh.
Have you ever heard of drilling a hole in front of DPF, welding a nut and plug after, for a borescope exam? Your presentation is seriously clearer, more poignant, useful, than dozens and dozens of hours elsewhere. The only thing I confess-fear is using the high idle in Summer while in store to keep dog cool, it appears certain I have damaged the engine, or sooted it up severely, but the DPF regen only came on once in 68k, except recently beginning a 300 mi. trip empty, then in seconds the dreaded "Take to dealer" notice, no derate warning. I got advice to run down road at 2500rpm for over a hundred miles and suddenly the never seen "Regen" notice for about 65 miles popped up. Thought "I am saved!" In four days after that, visiting folks the DPF filter says about one third, and returning, running at 2500 for 50 miles changed nothing. Now I am just plain afraid to drive it. Thinking of drilling hole in front of DPF to insert borescope camera to see what's what (and weld a nut and such to reseal it). Any impression or insight is deeply appreciated.
I’m with you on the 5k intervals, i actually do like 3500 on my 06 5.9. And I get it to temp and then let it drain for 20-30 min then pour a new sacrificial quart down its gullet and let that all drain out before I add new
My Ford 6.7 says on the dash when its 5k miles change oil and I do. I live in Florida and idle for a few minutes, double it in the winter. My first five minutes of driving I take it easy because of where I live is remote and i dont have to get up to speed in a hurry. I hope thats fine.
Wonderful, thank you gents. I have a '21 EcoDiesel and love the high idle that it does on the remote start, still takes a long time to warm-up, but I agree that it is critical to get her warmed-up and run long enough to get up to decent operating temps to burn some of the crap out of her.
I have a 5th gen Cummins. I run 5w-40 year around in MS. The 10w-30 is only rated for 95 degree ambient temp. Plus I get the 40w protection year around.
I have a 2016 and my friend has a 2021 cummins. I find it odd that both our trucks have 15 k oil change intervals but my 16 is 6 months and the 21 is 12 months. I believe that should be the other way around because of the hydraulic lifters in the 21. I change my oil every 6 months usually between 7k-8k miles. My truck doesn't take short trips and is used to tow 15k pound camper. I do believe 15k intervals are fine for people that hot shot as they may put 15k on their truck in a few months and are working the engines. But I agree if you use it as a grocery getter than 5 k is probably a good rule of thumb. Also I rarely use the high idle. The truck will high idle itself after running for a minute or two so I just let the ECM decide what's best for the truck.
All good info and sound advice. I live in Florida and I’ve recently switched to 5/40 on my 5th gen 6.7. Valve train is much quieter and happier since I’ve switched. Not sure why, but mine doesn’t seem to like 10/30. I always change my oil at or before 7500miles. I’ve done oil analysis every other oil change with good results. Lab even suggested to extend interval to 10k. I’m good.. I’ll keep it right where it is.. good video
Is there a certain amount of time you should go between oil changes? I bought my 24 f350 diesel in January and did a 1000 mile break in oil change in April. . It now has just under 3k miles and am just wondering if I should change so
When I purchased my 12 Ram Laramie Cummins the used dealership said I don't need to change the oil right away! I said I didn't Care it's black I didn't do it, I don't know what they used!. I purchased it to tow a 5R when towing I changed the oil every 3000 ! When not towing it's every 3k to 5k , I only use Shell T6 , I keep it in a garage during the winter I will not start it when it's below 32°f unless it's been plugged in overnight. People say I'm taking it too far? I don't think so it's a 12 with 150k on it , it's valuable, and I have a 01 GMC Yukon with 365000 on it that still runs like new ! I'm doing something right. The GMC only gets Mobile 1. And since I purchased the Truck in Tennessee unfortunately the wire for the block heater was not installed so I had to install one when moving to the Michigan UP it gets cold very cold and 300" of snow annually.😮😂 Future deleting is something I won't talk about I'm waiting to see what happens to the EPA.
@ Yep. I’ve been able to keep it clean looking for a week at the most. I installed my own auxiliary cooler and oil filter that works off of a thermostat just for peace of mind.
Awesome video by the way!! I always do mine close to 4000 miles and the filters too. When i'm driving for long distances I let the truck idle from 3 to 5 minutes and then I shut it down.
HEUI engines are by nature harder on the oil. It was a very versatile fuel system for It's time, but common rail overcame those obstacles. Common rail also brought us more fuel related failures on diesels unfortunately.
On the block heater, is there a temp where u should plug n ? Is it 50 degrees, 40, 30 …? What outside temp should we use to gauge when to plug n block heater
I am loving this channel. I’ve got the hemi and I am trying my best to keep it alive for a long time. I do oil changes every 6000km (~3700miles) with pennzoil ultra platinum 5w20 (what’s on the oil cap) unfortunately I’ve got the cracked exhaust manifold which I am waiting on back ordered parts. I was curious if you would extend your oil change interval for a Cummins if you were doing a long distance trip and the engine would be running at higher load / temperatures for extended times compared to using it around town. Otherwise I agree more frequent oil changes would be key. Especially how that they have roller lifters . Keep up the great content
I own a fleet of CumminsISX semi trucks. I’ve never changed oil before 20k miles on any of the 8 trucks. One truck has over a million miles and just now due for an overhaul. No issues. 5k mile oil change interval in a common rail is dumb AF and a waste of money.
Your ISX is likely sitting next to a centrifugal oil filter on the frame rail. Those things flat out work, and they're full of carbon sludge when you clean them. I'm going to be putting a small one on my 12 valve, because it can't hurt and I have the space underhood for it. These modern pickup diesels are a nightmare due to most being driven around as big cars 90%+ of the time, and are equipped with less than durable emissions components, so I fully understand the fear people have of repair bills. It really is criminal what the EPA has saddled them with. The guys saying they change oil at 3K leave me shaking my head. I'd run a bypass filter before changing oil at 5K miles. They are cheap and effective at pulling soot. Fleetguard even makes standard size filters with a bypass built into them. Oil analysis is your friend as well.
But I have a question! Is there a difference between leaving the engine on at idle vs. running the truck? Since when running the engine works properly with the engine cooling system and the turbo works better vs. when idle?
Great information but i think after a hard tow or driving a interstate speeds you need to idle for at least 5 minutes before shutting down i service a fleet of w900 kenworths w ith c15 cats they came with factory installed twist dial style kitchen timer idle switch they recommended at least 7 to 10 minutes of idle before shutdown all turbos spin 186000 rpms they get really hot!! Merry Christmas to all!!!
Im a company driver of Carhauler, we using RAM 3500 Cummins, I wanted to add something about cold start routine, before to start the engine I also press start button twice before to touch the brake and start it, I believe this primes the fuel system after sitting and I noticed that it’s actually starts better (less cranks) just something to consider..
I have a 2023 2500, my truck sits for up to a month at a time while im at work. There is no place for me to plug it in at the to. So Ill be using a 3300w pure sine inverter generator to plug into the block heater before I make the trip home. My question is, How long would you say I need to leave it plugged in to reach a comfortable temp (compared to plugging in over night) before I start & high idle it?
The high idle is a great suggestion, I wish Dodge would have installed it on my 4500, but they refused because I have a 6-speed manual. I was like "why not, what does having a manual tranny have to do with it?" and they say you might leave it in gear. In gear? Who fires up their truck and leaves it in gear, and let off the clutch to warm it up?
People are far dumber than you think. A buddy of mine did two fuel system cleans in 2 months on the same Ecodiesel Ram. The owner put gasoline in the tank. Twice. Another customer is on her 4th engine in her car because she can't be bothered to change or check the oil, ever. But as long as her daddy keeps buying used engines, she'll likely keep avoiding it. Pro tip- Always avoid a jury trial.
I always thought 15K was insane. I split that in half- every 7500 I think is OK. 5K I am sure is better but I do not tow much at all, not working it very hard generally. ‘14 Ram Laramie 4x4 with 167k miles- trans took a dump at 143k, (68RFE of course), otherwise no major issues. Still has emissions- only had the EGR valve go bad at 147k.
I have not seen that as a free service. If service procedure instructs to clean the cac such as a p1459 code (I think it’s that code). But I don’t recall a clean egr system as part of any procedure
I beg to differ on OCI...I have an 08 gmc sierra duramax totally deleted with 324k miles on it with oem injectors and cp3 pump and in cold weather I let it idle for at least 30 minutes to warm up and change my oil once a year or 20k miles did an oil analysis with Blackstone labs got the results back and the report came back no fuel delution or coolant in oil, metals wear was normal the 15w40 viscosity was the same and the report said can go 25 to 30k miles on my oil change so that's what I've been doing every since. But I think alot of oil issues like sludge is driver's are taking short trips not letting the oil get to operating temperature to burn off any moisture that occurs during the combustion process?
Thank you for the great videos. What are your thoughts about viscosity here in Utah I run 5w40 year round. Should I be switching back to 15 40 in the spring. 2015 ram. One more question, what is the acceptable top end temp for the coolant when towing.
I would run 15w40 year round in your truck but I don’t see any reason why not to run 5w40 in the winter. As for temp when towing I think if you get much higher than 230 then maybe there is something else going on such as plugged radiator or clutch fan not working correctly
Hey Josh, so if I have a 1 ton ram Dooley and I’m working with that Dooley pulling RV campers all over I can put easily 5000 miles in two weeks so every two weeks I need to change my oil
Please do not waste your money. Mileage is just one factor, running hours is also important. How heavy you tow and expected temperature matters for regen to work well.
Josh, I’m looking at picking up a 2018 Cummins. I live in south Florida so what oil weight you recommend? 10w30? I typically use 15w40 rotella in my race car. What you think? I appreciate your help and merry Christmas man
So how about the boom trucks or other ptos that raise the idle and let them run 8hrs straight while they are working just wondering is something different with them
2003 Cummins 5.9, change religiously every 10,000 miles. 300,000 miles on the clock. Engine is clean on the inside and no wear factory machine marks are still there.
C'mon Josh, I know my old square bodies. Lol Seriously from 14:20 to 15:20 there's a red and white square body over your shoulder. And it needs a 5.9 Cummins.
Maybe it's because of the EGR constricting the intake and the I-beam design of the connecting rod being that it's for compression not for suction and that could lead to problems in structural stability. Also oil deletion. I think with the new oils and the tolerances of the motor they used to say not to get on it hard if it was cold and I just don't think that's true anymore. Also, I don't think manufacturers tell people their truth about what they should be running in their vehicles most of the time. Advising 10 to 15,000 mile oil changes and running the thinner oil. Even though in the owner's manual, they'll say that there's a thicker oil that's applicable. It's like they're trying to make it so the vehicle will make it as maintenance free as possible to 100,000 mi. But if you keep it to $120,000 mi, you're going to have a total piece of junk that you've abused unknowingly because of the manufacturers wanting to be able to sell you something new. Business philosophy used to be you make a lot of them and you sell them for a little bit of a profit and you make them last cuz that's pride in your product but now it's make as few as you can. Jack up the price as much as you can and then wonder why everything so expensive and everybody hates each other and nobody can afford anything around you capitalism at its finest😅
The wifes fors and my bighorn hemi about every 3 to 4 months for oil and filter , alot of short drives I do it my self ,overkill but takes me awhile to put on 3k,
Hi Josh, love your channel, I've been a Dodge/Ram since 2003. I certainly believe they make the best trucks. Just bought a 2500 Cummins, absolutely love it, I'm in Quebec Canada, just made my first oil change at 3000 miles, switched to 5W40 Rotella, I think I'm going to continue at 5000 miles in the future. Can I or should stick to 5W40 even in the summer. Ps I use Mopar oil filters. Am I doing the most to have trouble free running?
Is there any truth to the rumor that the grid heater bolts are failing alot? I have an 18 6.7 cummins and was thinking about putting on a Banks intake on it. I guess that im asking if its a common fail component.?
Hi I put a banks intake on my 18 ram it's works great alot more flow milage about the same no tune needed it's a lot of money I know but it's cheaper than anew engine later on 😊
@cwilks5592 yes that's why I replaced it truck had 35000 on it when I did it on the 4th of July now it has 50 k plus no more worries and it runs better. Enjoy
How long have they been building and designing engines? You would think by now they wouldn't have any issues like they do. They all should have a 10/100,000 warranty for the $$ we pay.
Not an issue on a modern common rail computer controlled engine. A mechanical 8V71, sure. Common rail can fire the injectors 5+ times per combustion event, which allows a far more complete burn of the fuel. They're amazing, really. It's too bad the emissions equipment and sub-par injection pumps ruin it.
I don’t idle, injectors are fine, and always change my air filter. Have always changed out my fuel filters on time and my oil. The soot is still everywhere. I have went thru multiple nox sensors and dpf sensors. The soot clogs up everything!
Want to keep your oil clean? Delete it and pull the egr off oil will stay clean. All the emission junk is what killing your engine and yes 5000 mile oil changes are good
You can't change oil often enough to keep the maintenance free roller lifters in a 19+ Cummins from failing just over 100k miles and before the 150k mile adjustment interval to the old solid lifters.
I have laser temp gun this Canada its - 42 truck plugged in all night go out in the 8 AM check Block temp in 3/4 places it is still only -17 C that surprised me big time I thing the book if not plugged in do start below -17 . I have dune this 4 time and it is windy well it get worse so maybe wait for warmer day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
15,000 mile engine oil change intervals is insane to me. 5,000 miles sounds perfect to me.
ua-cam.com/video/-FCdo17TZNc/v-deo.htmlsi=Eais1ZYSXqimSSAZ
Depends on how you use it. I change at 15,000 and I'm at 215,000 miles zero issues
I’d be mainly doing short trips, so I’m not sure I’d be comfortable with going to 5K. I think I would invest in some oil analysis tests too. Those rigs are just so expensive.
Been chaning mine at the manufacturer recommended 15,000 miles from the start zero issues. I'm at over a 120,0000 miles
@@danielmorris-ruckett913 How many miles do you need to get out of your rig?
Great Finally someone that knows what the hell they are talking about. A no bull💩 guy ! Thanks for giving us useful information
he knows turning wrenches. Not lubrication.
I've watched numerous videos like these. This one has a lot of good advice. That said, few videos fully address the issue of idling a 2007+ MY vehicle to warm the engine. It is this: a diesel that is not at operating temperature is producing high quantities of particulates until it reaches operating temperature. Those particulates will go into the DPF, where it will eventually have to be burned off. On my Ford 6.7 Super Duty, the engine idling at operating temperature would fill the DPF at a rate of 5%-10% per hour, but would fill the DPF up to triple that rate at below operating temperature. Knowing this, my regimen in cold weather was to start the engine and, once the oil pressure was up, elevate the idle (I installed an elevated idle control--EIC--that would elevate the idle to 1,200 RPM on command) long enough to get the engine to about 100° F. temperature, then drive the truck at moderate RPM and load until the engine reached full operating temperature. At outside ambient temperatures below around 10°-15° F., I would use the block heater, though I found the block heater running all the time was not generally necessary in all but frigid temperatures--I had my block heater on a timer that would start it about 4 hours before I planned to drive the truck. Unless it was absolutely necessary, I would never extended idle the truck (for more than, say, 10-15 minutes); if I idled it for any longer than that, I would elevate the idle using the EIC. 2007+ MY diesel vehicles are just not fit to use as a short-trip grocery getter--that is just asking for emission system and engine problems. When I no longer needed my diesel Super Duty to use vocationally where it would usually run on longer trips, I traded it for a gasoline truck. I've owned and been around diesels for about a half-century and love them, but the modern emission control systems have made them expensive, often unreliable, and impractical for many uses. I still have a pre-2007 diesel vehicle that doesn't have all the emission system issues.
As an owner operator and business owner. I never ever excessively idle my Ram fleet. I also made a point. Between hauls if they were ever used for a short trip. I would routinely take them out on drives to do passive regen to clear the dpf.
The rams have an automatic idle increase, even on my 2017, to help get up to operating temps faster. And the exhaust brake comes on automatically till oil temp reqcehes 160 F. For most starts, 30 seconds to a minute is the bare minimum id wait before moving, and then it's just low rpms and mild speeds until warm is done. Never let it idle for more than 10 minutes on warm-up.
My percentage of idle in total operating hours is usually 10% to 20% of running hours.
@@danielmorris-ruckett913 if you're running gauges, you might be surprised at how hard it is to actually obtain a passive regen. Sustaining 900 F post DPF takes some long pulls on hills with a windsail behind the truck.
I live in Florida and yes, I idol my truck
Since I heard Dave, I don’t even watch his videos anymore lol
I got 430,000 miles on GMC and so far never been to the dealer for engine or transmission.
I am still old school mechanic and don’t even look at mileage. I go by hours which Cummins use to be around 400 hours. The only way you can include idling time as well as traveling.
That’s how we do industrial equipment. Typically manufacturers have different thresholds but typically 500-600 hours same for PMs, most fluids other than engine oil is annual
Enjoy the vids keep them coming -from a fella in the trenches /boots on the ground -I always have an open ear and willing to learn.
Thank you, I appreciate that!
I agree with you 1000% I never go more than a max of 5000 miles on oil changes. It's easy to learn to do this service for oneself to save if that's a big issue. Oil changes are very cheap compared to the price of the vehicle and potential repairs.
When approaching from the POV of fuel and oil filters, it looks WAY expensive, but in fact, the oil filters are pretty cheap for modern trucks (less than 20 bucks). Am currently toying with idea of changing oil a day before changing the oil so as to help flush the trucks innards a bit better. It appears inarguable 10k miles for an oil change (per mfr) is just dumb.
@@MindFusion-ij1xlChanging oil twice is throwing money away. Every 5K is enough. Look into bypass filtration before you do that. Big trucks run centrifuges. Some folks do on pickups, but usually it's bypass filters.
A certified diesel tech with hundreds of diesel motor repairs under his belt.. once and for all, 15,000 mile oil intervals are NOT GOOD! , stop defending them because your cheap! GREAT VIDEO
all you said is you don't know anything about lubrication. Stick to what you know and close your mouth when breathing.
Your info videos are in the top tier in all of you tube. Your easy going matter of fact demeanor grabs the viewers attention. I really appreciate your Journeyman level of expertise and knowledge...keep the vids coming. Oh and you and JB make a good team! Happy Holidays Sir!!
Thanks! I appreciate that. Happy Holidays to you too!
Thank you I have a 30 Duramax engine and what I have been doing is just starting up leaving it out I did not realize do IO higher how much you appreciate everything teacher sir very happy with watching your videos thank you so much God bless you and your family and Merry Christmas to you
Merry Christmas to you as well!
In the older days, with our big trucks with Cats, my old man was adamant about 10K oil change intervals, and that was before EGR. Cat was onto something with pulling EGR after the DPF, which they called CGI, so at least there was a chance of dumping somewhat cleaner Exhaust Gasses back into the combustion cycle. Are any of the big-3 doing that with their EGR setups on the diesel pickups?
The eco diesel new gen does use that but in combination with a pre dpf egr
I am grateful you shared this video, thank you. I'll take all the helpful information I can get. Having a 5th gen and hearing and seeing all the Cummings failures over the past couple of years, has me concerned. Blessings guys.
While I agree with the warm up philosophy , and sane oil change intervals, I would posit that the #1 killer of modern diesels is EGR. Followed closely by PCV combining with the EGR soot.
That's a nice feature on those Rams, cruise button steps up the idle. Wish my Ford had that.
As a result of your guidance (including your other videos) I tried "DRIVING IT LIKE I STOLE IT" for test purposes! GUESS WHAT!
My plugged DPF, so unwilling to go into regen, WENT INTO REGEN before I got to the freeway, before it was warmed up, within four blocks of the house! I KNOW that is contradictory... however!
All I had to do was MASH THAT THROTTLE a few times at stop signs, slow down, and (I estimate) the difference in back pressure, never seen because I drive to maximize fuel economy hauling or not, was sufficient to cause a ALMOST NEVER SEEN regen.
I conclude (and invite your analysis) IF YOUR TRUCK IS BABIED TOO MUCH IT WON'T GO INTO REGEN.
DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT (like a drunk teenager, I guess) every so often to initiate a regen!
Do you have ANY idea how relieved I am? Drove 40 miles, and it completed regen, DPF is at zero percent.
Thanks, thanks a LOT.
I just turned 220,000 on my 2006 duramax. I run 15 to 20 k oil changes,with filter change at 5000, but i also run a frantz bypass filter and pull an oil sample every 5,000 miles for a full workup. which includes tbn,coolant,fuel, and wear metals.
I have been running shell rottela t6 since it came out in the 15w40 variety in northern wisconsin year round. Truck has had injectors replaced and head gaskets done at 132,000 only because the dealer broke a glow plug off in the head. The tech said the motor was too clean to have that many miles on it. I told him what i was running and doing, and he said, "Keep doing it"
Good information with the video. I'll ask about turning on the exhaust brake during warmup. Is that still recommended? Another thing that kills engine oil is short driving trips such as a few miles to the store or work. If the engine and the oil doesn't get hot enough the contaminants don't burn or evaporate out of the oil. I don't drive my Diesel pickup during the winter unless I know it will be driven far enough to get hot enough for the oil, exhaust system, and a good engine warm up. I do have my block heater plugged in to a timer that is set up to turn on about 4 hours before starting and that definitely helps warm up faster. Keep the videos coming Josh.
Have you ever heard of drilling a hole in front of DPF, welding a nut and plug after, for a borescope exam?
Your presentation is seriously clearer, more poignant, useful, than dozens and dozens of hours elsewhere.
The only thing I confess-fear is using the high idle in Summer while in store to keep dog cool, it appears certain I have damaged the engine, or sooted it up severely, but the DPF regen only came on once in 68k, except recently beginning a 300 mi. trip empty, then in seconds the dreaded "Take to dealer" notice, no derate warning.
I got advice to run down road at 2500rpm for over a hundred miles and suddenly the never seen "Regen" notice for about 65 miles popped up. Thought "I am saved!"
In four days after that, visiting folks the DPF filter says about one third, and returning, running at 2500 for 50 miles changed nothing. Now I am just plain afraid to drive it. Thinking of drilling hole in front of DPF to insert borescope camera to see what's what (and weld a nut and such to reseal it).
Any impression or insight is deeply appreciated.
I have a 2018. I always put it on fast idle when warming up or have to have it running.
I’m with you on the 5k intervals, i actually do like 3500 on my 06 5.9. And I get it to temp and then let it drain for 20-30 min then pour a new sacrificial quart down its gullet and let that all drain out before I add new
That’s a good practice
My Ford 6.7 says on the dash when its 5k miles change oil and I do. I live in Florida and idle for a few minutes, double it in the winter. My first five minutes of driving I take it easy because of where I live is remote and i dont have to get up to speed in a hurry. I hope thats fine.
Thanks for a great common sense video. Hopefully enough people watch this!
Nice square body 3/4 ton in the background! Needs a 12 valve Cummins!
This man gets it.
Thank you!
Wonderful, thank you gents. I have a '21 EcoDiesel and love the high idle that it does on the remote start, still takes a long time to warm-up, but I agree that it is critical to get her warmed-up and run long enough to get up to decent operating temps to burn some of the crap out of her.
Same I have a 2014 Eco diesel always use a block heater in winter start it wait till the high idle kicks off drive slowly and easy
@@spencerelsbury9110 The heater may be cheaper than the fuel expended to get it that hot.
Thank you for doing these videos. Very helpful. Can you pldo a video on DEF in extrem cold Temps. (Northern Vermont)
I have a 5th gen Cummins. I run 5w-40 year around in MS. The 10w-30 is only rated for 95 degree ambient temp. Plus I get the 40w protection year around.
I have a 2016 and my friend has a 2021 cummins. I find it odd that both our trucks have 15 k oil change intervals but my 16 is 6 months and the 21 is 12 months. I believe that should be the other way around because of the hydraulic lifters in the 21. I change my oil every 6 months usually between 7k-8k miles. My truck doesn't take short trips and is used to tow 15k pound camper. I do believe 15k intervals are fine for people that hot shot as they may put 15k on their truck in a few months and are working the engines. But I agree if you use it as a grocery getter than 5 k is probably a good rule of thumb. Also I rarely use the high idle. The truck will high idle itself after running for a minute or two so I just let the ECM decide what's best for the truck.
All good info and sound advice. I live in Florida and I’ve recently switched to 5/40 on my 5th gen 6.7. Valve train is much quieter and happier since I’ve switched. Not sure why, but mine doesn’t seem to like 10/30. I always change my oil at or before 7500miles. I’ve done oil analysis every other oil change with good results. Lab even suggested to extend interval to 10k. I’m good.. I’ll keep it right where it is.. good video
i would like to hear your thoughts on fuel and DEF addatives if they are do work or if they are bad for the engine and DEF system thanks
Is there a certain amount of time you should go between oil changes? I bought my 24 f350 diesel in January and did a 1000 mile break in oil change in April.
. It now has just under 3k miles and am just wondering if I should change so
How do you feel about useing synthetic oil and oil addatives?
Cool.. like the camper special in the background..
When I purchased my 12 Ram Laramie Cummins the used dealership said I don't need to change the oil right away! I said I didn't Care it's black I didn't do it, I don't know what they used!. I purchased it to tow a 5R when towing I changed the oil every 3000 ! When not towing it's every 3k to 5k , I only use Shell T6 , I keep it in a garage during the winter I will not start it when it's below 32°f unless it's been plugged in overnight. People say I'm taking it too far? I don't think so it's a 12 with 150k on it , it's valuable, and I have a 01 GMC Yukon with 365000 on it that still runs like new ! I'm doing something right. The GMC only gets Mobile 1. And since I purchased the Truck in Tennessee unfortunately the wire for the block heater was not installed so I had to install one when moving to the Michigan UP it gets cold very cold and 300" of snow annually.😮😂 Future deleting is something I won't talk about I'm waiting to see what happens to the EPA.
Holy shit lol. 🤦🏻
Oil will always be black and a diesel friend
@ Yep. I’ve been able to keep it clean looking for a week at the most. I installed my own auxiliary cooler and oil filter that works off of a thermostat just for peace of mind.
@@jamesvuxta8723 No kidding. It's designed to suspend soot particles and clean them off. One drive and it's doing that.
Awesome video by the way!! I always do mine close to 4000 miles and the filters too. When i'm driving for long distances I let the truck idle from 3 to 5 minutes and then I shut it down.
I had a 05 6.0 for 14 years. I changed oil every 4000- 4500 miles. I could hear the difference on start up with fresh oil.
HEUI engines are by nature harder on the oil. It was a very versatile fuel system for It's time, but common rail overcame those obstacles. Common rail also brought us more fuel related failures on diesels unfortunately.
On the block heater, is there a temp where u should plug n ?
Is it 50 degrees, 40, 30 …? What outside temp should we use to gauge when to plug n block heater
I am loving this channel. I’ve got the hemi and I am trying my best to keep it alive for a long time. I do oil changes every 6000km (~3700miles) with pennzoil ultra platinum 5w20 (what’s on the oil cap) unfortunately I’ve got the cracked exhaust manifold which I am waiting on back ordered parts. I was curious if you would extend your oil change interval for a Cummins if you were doing a long distance trip and the engine would be running at higher load / temperatures for extended times compared to using it around town. Otherwise I agree more frequent oil changes would be key. Especially how that they have roller lifters . Keep up the great content
Great video, oil is cheap and diesel engines are very expensive. 2024 Duramax 6.6, change 4000 to 5000 miles depending where driven city or highway.
I own a fleet of CumminsISX semi trucks. I’ve never changed oil before 20k miles on any of the 8 trucks. One truck has over a million miles and just now due for an overhaul. No issues. 5k mile oil change interval in a common rail is dumb AF and a waste of money.
Your ISX is likely sitting next to a centrifugal oil filter on the frame rail. Those things flat out work, and they're full of carbon sludge when you clean them. I'm going to be putting a small one on my 12 valve, because it can't hurt and I have the space underhood for it. These modern pickup diesels are a nightmare due to most being driven around as big cars 90%+ of the time, and are equipped with less than durable emissions components, so I fully understand the fear people have of repair bills. It really is criminal what the EPA has saddled them with.
The guys saying they change oil at 3K leave me shaking my head. I'd run a bypass filter before changing oil at 5K miles. They are cheap and effective at pulling soot. Fleetguard even makes standard size filters with a bypass built into them.
Oil analysis is your friend as well.
But I have a question!
Is there a difference between leaving the engine on at idle vs. running the truck?
Since when running the engine works properly with the engine cooling system and the turbo works better vs. when idle?
Thank you and JB. Great video
You are welcome, I am glad you liked it!
Great information but i think after a hard tow or driving a interstate speeds you need to idle for at least 5 minutes before shutting down i service a fleet of w900 kenworths w ith c15 cats they came with factory installed twist dial style kitchen timer idle switch they recommended at least 7 to 10 minutes of idle before shutdown all turbos spin 186000 rpms they get really hot!! Merry Christmas to all!!!
Im a company driver of Carhauler, we using RAM 3500 Cummins, I wanted to add something about cold start routine, before to start the engine I also press start button twice before to touch the brake and start it, I believe this primes the fuel system after sitting and I noticed that it’s actually starts better (less cranks) just something to consider..
You should probably know about the grid heater on your truck.
I have a 2016 Cummins, do you recommend pulling & cleaning the EGR system at specific intervals?
Love the channel!!!! Great stuff!!
Thank u so much for advice bro 🎉 and merry Christmas to u 🎄🎄🎄🎄
warm up watch oil preasure when it starts be sure it builds up your oil pressure tells you how long to warm up
I have a 2023 2500, my truck sits for up to a month at a time while im at work. There is no place for me to plug it in at the to. So Ill be using a 3300w pure sine inverter generator to plug into the block heater before I make the trip home. My question is, How long would you say I need to leave it plugged in to reach a comfortable temp (compared to plugging in over night) before I start & high idle it?
Temp you're at really matters here.
Love your videos. Great stuff!
My 19 HO came out of Miami with a block heater plug and high idle.
The high idle is a great suggestion, I wish Dodge would have installed it on my 4500, but they refused because I have a 6-speed manual. I was like "why not, what does having a manual tranny have to do with it?" and they say you might leave it in gear. In gear? Who fires up their truck and leaves it in gear, and let off the clutch to warm it up?
People are far dumber than you think. A buddy of mine did two fuel system cleans in 2 months on the same Ecodiesel Ram. The owner put gasoline in the tank. Twice. Another customer is on her 4th engine in her car because she can't be bothered to change or check the oil, ever. But as long as her daddy keeps buying used engines, she'll likely keep avoiding it. Pro tip- Always avoid a jury trial.
Not a 100% fail safe, but you could always tie it into the parking brake so it wont high idle unless in park.
I always thought 15K was insane. I split that in half- every 7500 I think is OK. 5K I am sure is better but I do not tow much at all, not working it very hard generally. ‘14 Ram Laramie 4x4 with 167k miles- trans took a dump at 143k, (68RFE of course), otherwise no major issues. Still has emissions- only had the EGR valve go bad at 147k.
Have you seen that the EGR must be cleaned once free of charge by the dealership, in certain states?
I have not seen that as a free service. If service procedure instructs to clean the cac such as a p1459 code (I think it’s that code). But I don’t recall a clean egr system as part of any procedure
@Trukstuf It apparently false under emissions warranty, and the cleaning has to be done within certain mileage for it to be free.
What if put your truck in the garage should you still plug it in or that’s not necessary
I like all the videos, thanks for taking the time ,
You are welcome!
I beg to differ on OCI...I have an 08 gmc sierra duramax totally deleted with 324k miles on it with oem injectors and cp3 pump and in cold weather I let it idle for at least 30 minutes to warm up and change my oil once a year or 20k miles did an oil analysis with Blackstone labs got the results back and the report came back no fuel delution or coolant in oil, metals wear was normal the 15w40 viscosity was the same and the report said can go 25 to 30k miles on my oil change so that's what I've been doing every since. But I think alot of oil issues like sludge is driver's are taking short trips not letting the oil get to operating temperature to burn off any moisture that occurs during the combustion process?
Your deleted truck doesn't have the high back pressure forcing soot past the rings at a higher rate, and the DPF clogging up making it even worse.
Thank you for the great videos. What are your thoughts about viscosity here in Utah I run 5w40 year round. Should I be switching back to 15 40 in the spring. 2015 ram. One more question, what is the acceptable top end temp for the coolant when towing.
I would run 15w40 year round in your truck but I don’t see any reason why not to run 5w40 in the winter. As for temp when towing I think if you get much higher than 230 then maybe there is something else going on such as plugged radiator or clutch fan not working correctly
Hey Josh, so if I have a 1 ton ram Dooley and I’m working with that Dooley pulling RV campers all over I can put easily 5000 miles in two weeks so every two weeks I need to change my oil
Please do not waste your money. Mileage is just one factor, running hours is also important. How heavy you tow and expected temperature matters for regen to work well.
Josh, I’m looking at picking up a 2018 Cummins. I live in south Florida so what oil weight you recommend? 10w30? I typically use 15w40 rotella in my race car. What you think? I appreciate your help and merry Christmas man
Go light ..and add a quart of Lucas
On my 22’. My owners manual says 5-30 below 0 F. 10-40 I think 0 and above. Just go by the manual?
Nice truck. Love the color.
Heard anything on the filter causing regeneration to often and if so please explain
So how about the boom trucks or other ptos that raise the idle and let them run 8hrs straight while they are working just wondering is something different with them
Yes 15,000 miles in between services is too long 👍🏾
I don't tow. Is there a bypass oil filter system for diesel engines? I am referring to a complete system for these engines?
Good information, useful as I consider gas v. diesel for new vehicle.
1k miles per quart of oil capacity OCI's have always worked for me...Regardless of make/model.
2003 Cummins 5.9, change religiously every 10,000 miles. 300,000 miles on the clock. Engine is clean on the inside and no wear factory machine marks are still there.
Price ?
Love to see that old square body in that background.
Those are all new
C'mon Josh, I know my old square bodies. Lol
Seriously from 14:20 to 15:20 there's a red and white square body over your shoulder.
And it needs a 5.9 Cummins.
I came to the 5000 mile conclusion over the 7000 mile lie..Sometimes 4000 miles..2016 6.7 Powerstroke with a deep oil pan and Caterpillar filter..
If you delete these trucks and put a oil bypass filter kit on the oil doesn't get black
Maybe it's because of the EGR constricting the intake and the I-beam design of the connecting rod being that it's for compression not for suction and that could lead to problems in structural stability.
Also oil deletion. I think with the new oils and the tolerances of the motor they used to say not to get on it hard if it was cold and I just don't think that's true anymore. Also, I don't think manufacturers tell people their truth about what they should be running in their vehicles most of the time. Advising 10 to 15,000 mile oil changes and running the thinner oil. Even though in the owner's manual, they'll say that there's a thicker oil that's applicable.
It's like they're trying to make it so the vehicle will make it as maintenance free as possible to 100,000 mi. But if you keep it to $120,000 mi, you're going to have a total piece of junk that you've abused unknowingly because of the manufacturers wanting to be able to sell you something new.
Business philosophy used to be you make a lot of them and you sell them for a little bit of a profit and you make them last cuz that's pride in your product but now it's make as few as you can. Jack up the price as much as you can and then wonder why everything so expensive and everybody hates each other and nobody can afford anything around you capitalism at its finest😅
The wifes fors and my bighorn hemi about every 3 to 4 months for oil and filter , alot of short drives I do it my self ,overkill but takes me awhile to put on 3k,
Good solid video!
Hi Josh, love your channel, I've been a Dodge/Ram since 2003. I certainly believe they make the best trucks. Just bought a 2500 Cummins, absolutely love it, I'm in Quebec Canada, just made my first oil change at 3000 miles, switched to 5W40 Rotella, I think I'm going to continue at 5000 miles in the future. Can I or should stick to 5W40 even in the summer. Ps I use Mopar oil filters. Am I doing the most to have trouble free running?
I'd stick with the 5w40 year-round, it's more than sufficient for your climate.
@Trukstuf thanks for your input, just love your videos. Happy Holidays to you, all the best
Is there any truth to the rumor that the grid heater bolts are failing alot? I have an 18 6.7 cummins and was thinking about putting on a Banks intake on it. I guess that im asking if its a common fail component.?
Hi I put a banks intake on my 18 ram it's works great alot more flow milage about the same no tune needed it's a lot of money I know but it's cheaper than anew engine later on 😊
@@genesauter4755I just purchased one for my 15. I'm anxious to see how much carbon is on the grid heater.
@cwilks5592 yes that's why I replaced it truck had 35000 on it when I did it on the 4th of July now it has 50 k plus no more worries and it runs better. Enjoy
How long have they been building and designing engines? You would think by now they wouldn't have any issues like they do. They all should have a 10/100,000 warranty for the $$ we pay.
Wet Stacking is another issue for diesels that are not operated at normal operating temperature
Not an issue on a modern common rail computer controlled engine. A mechanical 8V71, sure.
Common rail can fire the injectors 5+ times per combustion event, which allows a far more complete burn of the fuel. They're amazing, really. It's too bad the emissions equipment and sub-par injection pumps ruin it.
Spot on brother 👍🏻
This is not about the oil but what happens if you make the mistake of putting gasoline in a diesel engine tank.
I change my oil on xcxnude my duramax between 3 and 4 thousand miles you delvac 15 40 I'm going back to shell rotella when I get my new truck
3000 on my gas burners and 5000 on my diesel period and thats still with running synthetics also.
The EPA and their mandated DPF is the largest killer of diesels.
I don’t idle, injectors are fine, and always change my air filter. Have always changed out my fuel filters on time and my oil.
The soot is still everywhere. I have went thru multiple nox sensors and dpf sensors.
The soot clogs up everything!
I like Rotella T6 full synthetic oil
That’s insane 15k, hell no!
I change my oil every 2500 miles . You can never change your oil enough .the egr dont help eather .
If doing alot of short tripping i do my cummins at 3500 mi.
I'd agree with your approach, especially if you're doing a lot of short trips
Want to keep your oil clean? Delete it and pull the egr off oil will stay clean. All the emission junk is what killing your engine and yes 5000 mile oil changes are good
Good video
You can't change oil often enough to keep the maintenance free roller lifters in a 19+ Cummins from failing just over 100k miles and before the 150k mile adjustment interval to the old solid lifters.
There's nothing to adjust on a lifters. Valve lash is supposed to be checked every like 25k
Sorry, the EGR is the biggest killer of a diesel engine
Bypass oil filter
Please don’t go all political! It’s enough of all that everywhere else. Love truck stuff.
The EPA and all the BS they make them put on diesels now days!!!
I do 7500 miles.
As far as I’m concerned, idling wastes fuel.
That's easy it's called the E.P.A.
I have laser temp gun this Canada its - 42 truck plugged in all night go out in the 8 AM check Block temp in 3/4 places it is still only -17 C that surprised me big time I thing the book if not plugged in do start below -17 . I have dune this 4 time and it is windy well it get worse so maybe wait for warmer day!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It’s a ram 😂 that’s the problem