i know im asking randomly but does someone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly lost my login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!
I really like this adjustment because it also addresses the narrow upper chest that goes along with the narrow shoulders. Thank you so much for this information.
You can do these two thing in any order that you'd like because they are independent of each other. Since I did this video I finished a new bodice fitting series "Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting" ... Here's a link to the playlist. Hope this helps and thank you for fitting along with me ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNvT3RK9aBSX-izrOQAR4Jed.html
This is SO HELPFUL!.. Your videos are fantastic. You explain and show everything so clear and concise so people can understand. I am a new subbie.. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us👍👍🙏
Thank you! I was clueless on how to adjust the shoulder when the rest of the mock-up fits so perfectly. Time to get out some pins & pattern paper and fix that darn pattern! EDIT - well, heck. I need to shorten the seam by a full 4" (the curse of a narrow back & large bosom), and there's no way that the armhole will be able to adjust to that. Guess I'll save this pattern for Mr O & start all over with a new one for me. Hanging on to this video, though, in case the new pattern needs a (more reasonable) adjustment.
:) Since I created this video tutorial, I have completed a new series to fit your bodice... Here's part 1 of Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting. This will help you pick a size and then compare measurements of the pattern to your body to adjust the length of the shoulder as well as fitting the "Blue Zone"... The upper back, neck, high bust/chest and slope of shoulder. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me. ua-cam.com/video/gNsFm8t_F8o/v-deo.html
@@JSternDesigns Awesome! I will be sure to check that out. I did already purchase a new pattern (I took it out of the packet first & made sure the shoulder seam wasn't as long as the other one) and will watch your video before cutting any fabric :-)
This was very helpful, thank you so much! One question - Did the alteration add length to the armhole opening, and would any adjustment need to be made to the sleeve to fit the changed armhole?
Del :) Here is the follow-up video I just uploaded about this topic ua-cam.com/video/NtKduy42jfA/v-deo.html. Let me know if you have questions... thanks for watching
Great video. I have narrow shoulders. Always have to redo after it is sewn. I also have to ease the sleeve cap. It is always too big. I’m petite. I sew mostly knots. Have you made a video which incorporates both narrow shoulder an reduced sleeve cap. Thank you
This adjustment only affects the length of the shoulder slightly... I would walk the sleeve cap into the armhole to see if you need to adjust it :) Thanks for watching
did you ever figure out your narrow shoulders? I seem to have the same problem. I"m tall and the shoulder seams are always too long. patterns based on full bust, but the rest all are the measurements I need so making a smaller size with the hope that the shoulder seams would be shorter and then doing a full bust adjustment didn't seem to make sense. just when I sew the tops the shoulders are always - without fail - at least 3/4 - 1" too long. I've seen videos on cutting out templates for sleeves and armholes, but what I think I need is a template for the whole top part - shoulder to armhole........LOL
So sorry I missed your question. Here's a tutorial showing how to take in the high bust to fit the shoulders: ua-cam.com/video/VMi2YjsA95M/v-deo.html Thank you for watching
Another question - I've seen other tutorials that recommend not continuing the new armhole past the notch on the pattern. I noticed that you do not follow that advice, and was wondering what your thoughts were about it. Again, thank you very much, I had to start following you simply because this was so well done!
Thank you for watching!! Technically, I did continue the new armhole past the notch... when I trued up the armhole after adjusting the shoulder. I chose to slash the pattern where the slash will intersect perpendicularly with the armhole. This makes it easy to see how to true it up by trimming some of the armhole above the adjustment and adding some below the adjustment. Does that make sense? Let me know, Jen
Hi, I really enjoyed this lesson so I subscribed, and looked for your video to show how you made the adjustment to the material. I couldn't find it! It doesn't show on your channel. Would you please post the link for the follow up lesson? Thanks!
Hi, Thank you for watching ...and subscribing to my Channel :) Here is a link to a tutorial showing how to shorten the shoulder if you're working with a constructed garment. Please let me know if you need more help. Jen ua-cam.com/video/OF1FFZvPgVk/v-deo.html
Thank you for the tutorial. Very easy to follow. I'd like to ask what happens when I need to shorten the shoulders by 1-2" inches? I have a problem there: I am a 2xl at the shoulders, a 3xl at the bust & waist area & a 4-5 xl at the hips. I usually buy patterns that are 3xl or 4xl then the shoulders are always too big.
I think it would be easier to buy a 2xl pattern... then do a FBA to add to the bust and relax the fit of the waist and hips to make enough ease. Thank you for sewing along with me! Sorry for the delayed response
This is a really important hint for me. Thank you so much. I do have a question, though. Doesn't this make the armhole bigger? I often have fabric bunching under the armhole, so I need to know how to compensate for that. Thanks in advance.
I'm so sorry I missed your comment... This adjustment doesn't affect the length of the armhole. If you have fabric bunching under your arm, you may need to scoop the base of the armhole a little bit. Thank you for watching!
If you're working with a men's shirt, and you can spare 3" of ease across your upper chest (because if you shorten each shoulder 1 1/2", that also removes 1 1/2" x 3 across the upper chest) then I would say yes. You can also try trimming it off the actual edge of the upper armhole... blending to zero before you get into the curves at the base of the armhole. (You can take in the back yoke at the armhole edge.) ... Having said that, if you're working with a pattern, maybe try one size smaller and grade up one size as go through the armhole and side seams. This may make the shoulder seam closer to your shoulder measurement so you don't have to make such a large adjustment. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Can you show how to shorten the shoulder on a mans yoked dress shirt? do I just follow the same procedure as this tutorial or is there something else I need to take into account? my husband has very narrow shoulders following an illness and I need to reduce the pattern by 1" on the shoulder width
I'm so sorry for the delayed response. You can follow this technique exactly in the front... In the back you can shorten the shoulder along the edge of the back yoke... An inch is a significant amount to remove, you may have to extend the adjustment to the bottom of the armhole in the back (under the yoke)... Put the yoke right above the armhole and pretend that it's a standard shirt back. This will help you visualize it. Again, so sorry I didn't answer til now!
Hi, I'm using my Perfectly Fitted Shirt Pattern. I just went to get a link from my website and I noticed that half of my patterns have disappeared from my patterns page. You can find the shirt pattern at Pattern Review.. sewing.patternreview.com/shop/J%20Stern%20Designs (Thank you for asking about the pattern, or I may not have noticed that I had a problem with my website!)
By altering the shirt this way, doesn't it enlarge the arm hole? How do you adjust this difference if you shorten the shoulder seam 1 inch or more? Also, what do you do to the sleeve so the cuff remains horizontal and not tipped upward to compensate for the amount changed on the sleeve?
Great questions! This method does not change the length of the armhole significantly. Shortening the width of the shoulder does not affect the cuff ...if you have excess length. A shoulder seam that is too wide will hang off your shoulder, all you're doing is picking that back up. If you have to remove more than 1" because the armhole is hanging off your shoulder more than 1" you might be working with a size that's too big for you. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
I am petite and have very narrow shoulders. I love these instructions because I have always cut off the shoulder after it was sewn and then attached the sleeve. However, that makes the armhole a little bigger so the cap of the sleeve is not as pretty.
Hi, Sorry about that. There isn't a follow up video for the back shoulder seam... because the steps are exactly the same. Adjust both front and back then put the adjusted seam edges together to make sure there is a smooth transition front to back. Let me know if this makes sense to you... Thanks for watching!
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! If you have to take in more than an inch, I'm guessing you might be working with a pattern that's a size too big. If you go down a size, you can then do a full bust adjustment and let the seams out to add ease where you need it.
Hai good morning. I have a question about upper chest n full bust measurements. How much to keep upper bust n full bust measurements in a front n back pattern. I will be waiting for your answer
Hi again :) When I'm fitting a garment through the bust, I use my high bust measurement to pick the starting size. Then I do a full bust adjustment (because I'm a G-Cup). Then I make a muslin and try the garment on. You can use the fit of the muslin to decide if you need more room across the back of the garment or if you need more room across the bust (or maybe both!). Look at what the side seams are doing... if they are pulling forward, you may need more room in the front ... if the seams are pulling to the back, then the back needs more.
made another top and again the shoulder seams are too wide. the shoulder seams and side seams are sewn. what is the best way to shorten the shoulder seam or better yet - I must just always use the wrong size patterns. they fit everywhere else but the shoulder seams are always too long..........am I measuring my shoulder width wrong to start with? this top is very basic. front and back both cut on the fold - and a sleeve..........slippery fabric. I just serged the seams with a rolled hem. what would you suggest I do to proceed from here? I don't have the sleeves attached yet.
So sorry about that... Usually you use your high bust measurement to pick a size so the shoulders and chest fit, then you adjust the bust if necessary. You can trim off some of the shoulder seam at the armhole edge and blend back to the original edge before you get to the front and back notches. You can shorten the shoulder seam on the pattern by slashing down from the center of the shoulder and across to the center of the armhole and then sliding it in. If you're interested, I have a Shirt Fitting Workbook. I just added a pdf version. www.jsterndesigns.com/product/the-perfectly-fitted-shirt-fit-workbook/ Let me know if this helps, thanks Jen
Im beginning to think the shoulder seam may be OK - but the shirt front is too wide to begin with. I measured the shoulder seam and it doesn't seem to be too wide. I am a "D" and sometimes "DD" cup, so perhaps a smaller size and a FBA is in order? doing an FBA on a smaller size will also increase the waist size? that's OK. just trying to get a handle on what I'm doing...........I did apply to your facebook page.
what would you like a picture of? the shirt - me in the shirt (LOL) - it's such a basic shirt I hate to bother you with it. it's just 3 pieces - front (on the fold) back (on the fold) and sleeves.......beginning to wonder if the issue is the shoulder width (shoulder to shoulder across the chest) is just too big. I hate taking photos of myself, but if you tell me what to show you - I'll do it. thanks for taking the time. which group (FB or here on youtube.?
You in the shirt so I can see how it fits :) In the FB group please ... It's a closed group, so all the members are sewers... some may have the same fitting challenges are you're having!
I’m so glad I found this video. You’re the first one whose instructions I’ve understood!! Thanks so much.
i know im asking randomly but does someone know a trick to get back into an Instagram account??
I stupidly lost my login password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!
Sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Happy to help, and thanks for watching~
Thank you…this looks like something not only that I need…but is also doable!
My Pleasure, happy this helps you, thanks for watching!
I really like this adjustment because it also addresses the narrow upper chest that goes along with the narrow shoulders. Thank you so much for this information.
Thank you... and thanks for watching!
Thank you. I also need to do a high round back. Which one should I do first. Your help is much appreciated
You can do these two thing in any order that you'd like because they are independent of each other. Since I did this video I finished a new bodice fitting series "Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting" ... Here's a link to the playlist. Hope this helps and thank you for fitting along with me ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNvT3RK9aBSX-izrOQAR4Jed.html
Yay! I can now shorten all of my extended shoulder Vogue 1980s designer patterns and bring them up to date, cuz I still love them. Thanks so much!
Sorry I missed your comment... Thanks for watching!
Great tute. Love your clear, direct, and complete teaching style. Also, your patterns are Genius.
So sorry I missed your comment... Thank you for watching!
This is SO HELPFUL!.. Your videos are fantastic. You explain and show everything so clear and concise so people can understand. I am a new subbie.. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us👍👍🙏
Thank you for fitting along with me! (sorry for the delayed response!)
Thank you soooooooooooo much. This video was gold for me. I’m seriously thankful. Wish you the best 😊
Jose Serrano thanks so much, happy it helped!
Thanks so much, very helpful thorough explanation
Glad it was helpful!
This was exceptionally helpful and easy to follow.
Thank you! and thanks for watching :)
Thank you! I was clueless on how to adjust the shoulder when the rest of the mock-up fits so perfectly. Time to get out some pins & pattern paper and fix that darn pattern! EDIT - well, heck. I need to shorten the seam by a full 4" (the curse of a narrow back & large bosom), and there's no way that the armhole will be able to adjust to that. Guess I'll save this pattern for Mr O & start all over with a new one for me. Hanging on to this video, though, in case the new pattern needs a (more reasonable) adjustment.
:) Since I created this video tutorial, I have completed a new series to fit your bodice... Here's part 1 of Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting. This will help you pick a size and then compare measurements of the pattern to your body to adjust the length of the shoulder as well as fitting the "Blue Zone"... The upper back, neck, high bust/chest and slope of shoulder. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me. ua-cam.com/video/gNsFm8t_F8o/v-deo.html
@@JSternDesigns Awesome! I will be sure to check that out. I did already purchase a new pattern (I took it out of the packet first & made sure the shoulder seam wasn't as long as the other one) and will watch your video before cutting any fabric :-)
thank you, I have struggled with this adjustment and you have set out the method very clearly
Thank you for watching :)
This was very helpful, thank you so much! One question - Did the alteration add length to the armhole opening, and would any adjustment need to be made to the sleeve to fit the changed armhole?
No, that's why she did half off the bottom edge and added half on the top so there was no net increase
@@jesshothersall Jessica, sorry dear I didn't scroll down far enough thank you much
So Sorry I missed your comment. This adjustment doesn't change the length of the armhole. Thanks for watching!
Very helpful. Thanks, Jennifer.
So Sorry I missed your comment. Thanks for watching! (Hope all is well!)
Do you need to make a sleeve adjustment. Enjoy your programs I learn so much.
Del :) Here is the follow-up video I just uploaded about this topic ua-cam.com/video/NtKduy42jfA/v-deo.html. Let me know if you have questions... thanks for watching
thank you for your time
My Pleasure, thank you for fitting along with me
Great information. Thanks
So sorry I didn't see you comment earlier... happy to help, thanks for watching
Great video. I have narrow shoulders. Always have to redo after it is sewn. I also have to ease the sleeve cap. It is always too big. I’m petite. I sew mostly knots. Have you made a video which incorporates both narrow shoulder an reduced sleeve cap. Thank you
So sorry I missed your Comment. That's a good topic...I'm adding it to my short list of upcoming videos! Thanks for watching
This was extremely helpful. Thank you!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for your very helpful tutorial!
My Pleasure... Thanks for watching!
Lovely and clear.
Thanks Hazel! and thank you for watching.
Thank you. Very helpful
So Sorry I missed your comment. Thanks for watching!
Excellent! Thank you xx
You are so welcome! Sorry for the delayed response.
Wouw! I needed this! But I have small shoulders, and big belly, I need to trim the shoulders 3 cm.. then the armhole doesn't fit anymore
Maybe try going down one size... then add room for your belly... Here's a tutorial for that! Hope this helps. ua-cam.com/video/WQj7-OKzpw8/v-deo.html
Great video. Will I have to adjust the sleeve cap as this adjustments makes the armhole bigger, is that correct. manythanks
This adjustment only affects the length of the shoulder slightly... I would walk the sleeve cap into the armhole to see if you need to adjust it :) Thanks for watching
This is a great video. Thank you. Seems my shoulders are the smallest part of my body and I could not get the shoulder seam correct.
did you ever figure out your narrow shoulders? I seem to have the same problem. I"m tall and the shoulder seams are always too long. patterns based on full bust, but the rest all are the measurements I need so making a smaller size with the hope that the shoulder seams would be shorter and then doing a full bust adjustment didn't seem to make sense. just when I sew the tops the shoulders are always - without fail - at least 3/4 - 1" too long. I've seen videos on cutting out templates for sleeves and armholes, but what I think I need is a template for the whole top part - shoulder to armhole........LOL
So sorry I missed your question. Here's a tutorial showing how to take in the high bust to fit the shoulders: ua-cam.com/video/VMi2YjsA95M/v-deo.html Thank you for watching
Thank you so very much! Very helpful! (Thank you for NOT using musical background!)
Thank you for fitting along with me! Sorry for the delayed response
Another question - I've seen other tutorials that recommend not continuing the new armhole past the notch on the pattern. I noticed that you do not follow that advice, and was wondering what your thoughts were about it. Again, thank you very much, I had to start following you simply because this was so well done!
Thank you for watching!! Technically, I did continue the new armhole past the notch... when I trued up the armhole after adjusting the shoulder. I chose to slash the pattern where the slash will intersect perpendicularly with the armhole. This makes it easy to see how to true it up by trimming some of the armhole above the adjustment and adding some below the adjustment. Does that make sense? Let me know, Jen
Yes, I see. Did it lengthen the armhole at all? Did you need to change the sleeve to fit?
Actually, everything turned out great! I even used this technique on a princess seamed back bodice and all went well. :) Thank you!
mywaytosanjose
Yay, I'm so happy, thanks for letting me know :)
Hi, I really enjoyed this lesson so I subscribed, and looked for your video to show how you made the adjustment to the material. I couldn't find it! It doesn't show on your channel.
Would you please post the link for the follow up lesson? Thanks!
Hi, Thank you for watching ...and subscribing to my Channel :) Here is a link to a tutorial showing how to shorten the shoulder if you're working with a constructed garment. Please let me know if you need more help. Jen ua-cam.com/video/OF1FFZvPgVk/v-deo.html
Thanks Jen, EVERY little bit helps!
Thank you for the tutorial. Very easy to follow. I'd like to ask what happens when I need to shorten the shoulders by 1-2" inches? I have a problem there: I am a 2xl at the shoulders, a 3xl at the bust & waist area & a 4-5 xl at the hips. I usually buy patterns that are 3xl or 4xl then the shoulders are always too big.
I have a similar problem
I think it would be easier to buy a 2xl pattern... then do a FBA to add to the bust and relax the fit of the waist and hips to make enough ease. Thank you for sewing along with me! Sorry for the delayed response
This is a really important hint for me. Thank you so much. I do have a question, though. Doesn't this make the armhole bigger? I often have fabric bunching under the armhole, so I need to know how to compensate for that. Thanks in advance.
I'm so sorry I missed your comment... This adjustment doesn't affect the length of the armhole. If you have fabric bunching under your arm, you may need to scoop the base of the armhole a little bit. Thank you for watching!
I need to adjust from a size 18 bust to a size 12 shoulder width. Do you have any advice please?
Hi Heather, can I ask what size you need to blend to under the bust? Thanks Jen
Would this work to take an one and one-half inches? What happens if the shirt has a yoke?
If you're working with a men's shirt, and you can spare 3" of ease across your upper chest (because if you shorten each shoulder 1 1/2", that also removes 1 1/2" x 3 across the upper chest) then I would say yes. You can also try trimming it off the actual edge of the upper armhole... blending to zero before you get into the curves at the base of the armhole. (You can take in the back yoke at the armhole edge.) ... Having said that, if you're working with a pattern, maybe try one size smaller and grade up one size as go through the armhole and side seams. This may make the shoulder seam closer to your shoulder measurement so you don't have to make such a large adjustment. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Can you show how to shorten the shoulder on a mans yoked dress shirt? do I just follow the same procedure as this tutorial or is there something else I need to take into account? my husband has very narrow shoulders following an illness and I need to reduce the pattern by 1" on the shoulder width
I'm so sorry for the delayed response. You can follow this technique exactly in the front... In the back you can shorten the shoulder along the edge of the back yoke... An inch is a significant amount to remove, you may have to extend the adjustment to the bottom of the armhole in the back (under the yoke)... Put the yoke right above the armhole and pretend that it's a standard shirt back. This will help you visualize it. Again, so sorry I didn't answer til now!
I've been trying to find a basic shirt pattern like the one you're wearing. could I ask what pattern you used?
Hi, I'm using my Perfectly Fitted Shirt Pattern. I just went to get a link from my website and I noticed that half of my patterns have disappeared from my patterns page. You can find the shirt pattern at Pattern Review.. sewing.patternreview.com/shop/J%20Stern%20Designs (Thank you for asking about the pattern, or I may not have noticed that I had a problem with my website!)
By altering the shirt this way, doesn't it enlarge the arm hole? How do you adjust this difference if you shorten the shoulder seam 1 inch or more? Also, what do you do to the sleeve so the cuff remains horizontal and not tipped upward to compensate for the amount changed on the sleeve?
Great questions! This method does not change the length of the armhole significantly. Shortening the width of the shoulder does not affect the cuff ...if you have excess length. A shoulder seam that is too wide will hang off your shoulder, all you're doing is picking that back up. If you have to remove more than 1" because the armhole is hanging off your shoulder more than 1" you might be working with a size that's too big for you. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thank you for the fast reply. I now have much work to do, but with confidence that it will turn out alright.
I am petite and have very narrow shoulders. I love these instructions because I have always cut off the shoulder after it was sewn and then attached the sleeve. However, that makes the armhole a little bigger so the cap of the sleeve is not as pretty.
Thank you for fitting along with me! (sorry for the delayed response!)
Thanks for watching :)
I can't find the followup video on how to shorten the shoulder onto the back of the pattern, can you help?
Hi, Sorry about that. There isn't a follow up video for the back shoulder seam... because the steps are exactly the same. Adjust both front and back then put the adjusted seam edges together to make sure there is a smooth transition front to back. Let me know if this makes sense to you... Thanks for watching!
If you have to take in more than an inch would you use the same procedure?
So Sorry I didn't see your comment until now! If you have to take in more than an inch, I'm guessing you might be working with a pattern that's a size too big. If you go down a size, you can then do a full bust adjustment and let the seams out to add ease where you need it.
Hai good morning. I have a question about upper chest n full bust measurements. How much to keep upper bust n full bust measurements in a front n back pattern. I will be waiting for your answer
Hi again :) When I'm fitting a garment through the bust, I use my high bust measurement to pick the starting size. Then I do a full bust adjustment (because I'm a G-Cup). Then I make a muslin and try the garment on. You can use the fit of the muslin to decide if you need more room across the back of the garment or if you need more room across the bust (or maybe both!). Look at what the side seams are doing... if they are pulling forward, you may need more room in the front ... if the seams are pulling to the back, then the back needs more.
made another top and again the shoulder seams are too wide. the shoulder seams and side seams are sewn. what is the best way to shorten the shoulder seam or better yet - I must just always use the wrong size patterns. they fit everywhere else but the shoulder seams are always too long..........am I measuring my shoulder width wrong to start with? this top is very basic. front and back both cut on the fold - and a sleeve..........slippery fabric. I just serged the seams with a rolled hem. what would you suggest I do to proceed from here? I don't have the sleeves attached yet.
So sorry about that... Usually you use your high bust measurement to pick a size so the shoulders and chest fit, then you adjust the bust if necessary. You can trim off some of the shoulder seam at the armhole edge and blend back to the original edge before you get to the front and back notches. You can shorten the shoulder seam on the pattern by slashing down from the center of the shoulder and across to the center of the armhole and then sliding it in. If you're interested, I have a Shirt Fitting Workbook. I just added a pdf version. www.jsterndesigns.com/product/the-perfectly-fitted-shirt-fit-workbook/ Let me know if this helps, thanks Jen
Im beginning to think the shoulder seam may be OK - but the shirt front is too wide to begin with. I measured the shoulder seam and it doesn't seem to be too wide. I am a "D" and sometimes "DD" cup, so perhaps a smaller size and a FBA is in order? doing an FBA on a smaller size will also increase the waist size? that's OK. just trying to get a handle on what I'm doing...........I did apply to your facebook page.
ssarge2 ... :) can you post pic in the group so I can see what's going on? ... that will help me make suggestions on how to fix your shirt
what would you like a picture of? the shirt - me in the shirt (LOL) - it's such a basic shirt I hate to bother you with it. it's just 3 pieces - front (on the fold) back (on the fold) and sleeves.......beginning to wonder if the issue is the shoulder width (shoulder to shoulder across the chest) is just too big. I hate taking photos of myself, but if you tell me what to show you - I'll do it. thanks for taking the time. which group (FB or here on youtube.?
You in the shirt so I can see how it fits :) In the FB group please ... It's a closed group, so all the members are sewers... some may have the same fitting challenges are you're having!
👍🙋🌷🍀
:) Thanks for watching