You're the only one who does these explanations so clearly and so well. I hope you tackle 2 piece sleeves as well, one day. I'd love to sit down with you and learn how to insert an unerarm gusset and how to add extra material for a rolled cuff on a jacket sleeve. Lining makes everything more difficult to deal with.
Thank you for your kind words!! Those are all great topics. And, you've given me an idea. I have a friend who just opened her own tailor shop... Maybe I'll do some tutorials with her over at her shop to show how to deal with the underarm gusset and rolled cuff on a jacket sleeve with a lining. Stay Tuned! Thanks for watching
I am so excited! I anticipate each video because you're clear, take your time, and explain things us newbies are overthinking about. Your videos give more actual teaching information because you not only answer, but show why it's the answer and what else to look out for. Thanks for all your excellent work!
Thank you for the clear visual explanation. I am a visual learner and this makes total sense. I have a nice silk shirt with shoulders slightly too long. I hesitate to make alterations as I really don’t want to alter the sleeves. This video gives confidence that I can take in the shoulders for a small amount without altering the sleeves.
This is perfect. Thank you - you have explained exactly what I need to know quickly and without excessive blah blah blahing! Simple and to the point - perfect.
I really appreciate the way you explained this. Very clear and answering my concerns about adjusting a pattern! The original tutorial I found showing how to adjust shoulder seams didn't address the sleeves at all and I was so concerned. Your tutorial happened to appear on my UA-cam feed and is the exact answer I needed! Thank you!
This is literally the clearest explanation I have seen on adjusting shoulders/armholes. I feel I could do this. Thank you! Quick question, what if I also wanted to take in the side seams of my shirt by 1/2 inch on each side - 1) how much would I have to adjust each sleeve (only 1/2 inch?), and 2) would I still adjust the sleeve at the curve, or at the straight end? I guess the question really is, are all sleeve adjustments made on the curve only?
I'm so sorry for the delayed response. If you need to take in side seam and shorten the shoulder, you can draw the horizontal line a little bit below the base of the armhole instead of at the armhole. Then you can slide the entire armhole and the very top of the side seam in 1/2"... true up the rest of the side seam below the adjustment to take the entire side seam in. Hope this helps!
Hi Jen, I just discovered your videos.your explanations are so easy to follow. A great successor to the wonderful resources and classes offered by Manchester Sewing.
Excellent! This was very helpful! Attempting to narrow shoulders on ready to wear garments. Thank you for your calm and pleasant delivery. You are a great teacher, I will look up your other tutorials
Today I am doing that very thing with my shoulder and neckline. I cut the entire shoulder off and shifted it a half inch to the center. I'm hoping this will decrease the shoulder seam and close up the neck. At least that is my thinking . I am attempting for the first time to make a top that actually fits correctly. Thank you loads and loads for your time and effort. Many blessings to you and yours.
Thank you for your kind words. Cutting off the entire shoulder seam and shift it toward the neckline it does shift fabric off the shoulder and closes the neckline. This is a good way to do it if the shoulder seam is the right length.
Super helpful for me adjusting the pattern of my burda shirt pattern. I have narrow shoulders so this is the exact modification I'm trying to do. Much appreciated. 😊
J Stern Designs I was going to go to the trouble of doing an FBA on one size down in the pattern for this problem but this solution seems so much easier and sensible for a small adjustment. Again, thank you!
Thank you! I routinely need quite extreme adjustments in both the slope and length of shoulder (super square, super narrow shoulders here!) this will help me to adjust the sleeve.
:) I should, I have broader shoulders too! You can do this adjustment in the reverse. Slash and spread instead of overlap the vertical slash. You can true up the armhole the same way and you shouldn't need to adjust the sleeve. Thanks for fitting along with me!
I made the adjustments yesterday and it was so easy to do. I appreciate that you took the time to show us regarding the armhole/sleeve measurements and didn't just tell us. I haven't tested it yet.@@JSternDesigns
If you need to shorten the shoulder, because it's hanging off your shoulder, shortening it, draws the armhole back into a position... not deeper into the bodice. After you shorten the shoulder, walk the sleeve cap around the armhole to check how much ease there is. That's how you can be sure you don't need to adjust the sleeve cap.... Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Not really, I'm already using the smaller of 2 sizes to mitigate some of this. I'll get started on the pattern adjustment and see how it goes.
Wow thanks, I never would have thought of the sleeve adjustment 1/4 across for changes in front and back. I need that shoulder adjustment too. And I believe that answered my question of a ready made dress that needed a good half inch front and back taken up at shoulder seam because the underarm of the sleeve hung way too low...likely would have needed sleeve adjustments. But could I have just shirred the sleeve cap more? Anyway, happy with my decision to return the dress.
:) you could have taken the sleeve cap in a little by either trimming a little of the fabric away from the edge of the cap ...or taken in the under arm seam slightly :)
Hi there, thank you very much for this video, it was the answer to my exact problem. A small question (it might be obvious but I want to make sure) : the horizontal line on the back piece is supposed to be aligned with the horizontal line of the front piece? Do you choose specific values to trace these lines (middle of armhole, e.g.)? Thank you !
That's a great question. The horizontal line should be positioned along the armhole where the least amount of curve is. This will create less of a "truing up" issue. The front/back horizontal lines do not need to be positioned at the same level. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
That sounds like a great topic for an upcoming video! Meanwhile, if the armhole edge of the shoulder seam is hanging past the tip of your shoulder, that's when you would need to shorten it. If the fabric is not hanging properly on your shoulder, you need to adjust the slope of the shoulder. In the case I shared in this tutorial, the fabric at the tip of the shoulder would look like it's pulling and it would be loose and not laying right at the neckline edge. ... Stay tuned for more, thanks for watching!
Just found you here on youtube with regards to adjusting shoulders. Very informative vid. I am a busty lady with a narrow frame across the chest which means set in sleeves always hang over in bought clothes. This is frustrating. I have begun to make tops with stretchy fabrics such as french terry and cotton lycra. Low and behold....... busty strikes again. To make for my bust size, the remainder of the pattern is huge elsewhere. I have slim arms/bicepts so armholes are always too deep....................this video has given me the confidence to how I might make some changes to at least a set in sleeve t-shirt. Many thanks. I am now subscribed to see what else you do ..x
I’m so happy you found me! Please keep me posted if you have questions about anything specific... I love doing Subscriber Q & A ...thanks for watching!
This video was very helpful. I have a question. What if you are using an older pattern that called for 1/2" shoulder pads but want to update the shoulder without using the shoulder pads. Would you lower the shoulder seam the thickness of the shoulder pad? And would you adjust the top of the sleeve also?
I'm happy this is helpful for you! If you're working with a pattern that's designed for shoulder pads, I think I would adjust for that when I'm wearing the fit muslin. (sew a sample garment. I work with half the bodice when I start working)... Then pin the shoulder seam where it needs to be to sit in the center of you shoulder. Have you seen my new series, Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting? Here's a link to part 1: ua-cam.com/video/gNsFm8t_F8o/v-deo.html
This is great, thanks. I’m having problems with the simplest of patterns..I’ve made 8 or more muslins and can’t get it right. The shoulders need narrowing and the top needs petite adjustments…..I can’t go down a dress size as I’m on the smallest for my top half but grading to next size up from hips down. When I’ve done petite adjustments it makes the arms too tight. …..I notice your petite adjustment is under the neckline, I cant do that on this pattern as it would be in the curved part of the armhole which you said avoid……also what order should I do the adjustments in? Narrow shoulders 1st or last? I’m determined to get it right…it’s the love notions Candence dress and basically the armhole sits far too low so I have restricted Movement…..I’ve tried altering the back seam to allow for a sway back but it looked bumpy! It’s woven material. I really appreciate your videos. Sorry for all the questions!Thanks
So happy you're fitting along with me. Instead of doing the traditional petite the armhole adjustment, try raising the base of the armhole... Here's a tutorial for that ua-cam.com/video/ZcPS61NbVUg/v-deo.html. You can narrow the shoulder, true up the armhole, then raise the base of the armhole. If your cb seam looks bumpy after doing a sway back adjustment, maybe try making two slash lines from the CB to side seam and split the total your pleating out. This may make the fabric lay smoother. Hope this helps!
@@JSternDesigns thank you for taking the time to reply….I think you’re the only UA-camr that does this, makes for a very loyal follower! I will try this although I did think I needed the petite adj all the way across to lift everything up to where it should be eg waist, shoulders etc but will def try your way first!! It’s a good job I have so many old sheets (begged from family and friends!) . Thanks again, looking forward to bodice tutorial later.
Hi J , thanks for the interesting video. I would like to alter my husbands shoulder length on a ready to wear shirt, and do not have a pattern, Are you able to demonstrate how this is done without a pattern. Many thanks
Just found your channel. Great explanation. Could you perhaps show us on yourself, when one might need to adjust the shoulder slope? I mean a before and after on a finished garment if that's not too much to ask😁
That is a great suggestion, and I'm trying to add before and after pics when I have them. Here is a tutorial where I showed a pic of one of my wonderful subscriber wearing a top that needed a shoulder slope adjustment. ua-cam.com/video/-D6BmIiMNXY/v-deo.html thanks for fitting along with me!
You are always so helpful. My problem is that one shoulder slope is 1/2” lower than the other. What is the best way to deal with this?? I have been cutting out for the higher shoulder then removing 1/4” from the lower side then I also lower the armhole by a 1/4 so as to not have to adjust the sleeve…would this be right. It does make the shoulder seam not quite match up. Or should I be adjusting the sleeve? Thanks for any inside 💖
If you google dotted, gridded or alpha numeric paper, you will find lots of options... I get mine from a variety of websites like Panda Trim. So Sorry for the delayed response
OK, there are hundreds of sleeve adaptations but you rarely see the sewing & hanging of the garment. Can you add just a snipp of what to expect? Thanks
I need to narrow by 1.25" which basically means (for instance) an 8 in the shoulders and neck, 18 in the upper bust and arms, 22 in the bust, and 28 in the waist and hips. Does this adjustment still mean not changing the sleeve if the slope is the same?
If you have a significant amount to shorten your shoulder (I would say more than 3/4") You should walk the sleeve into the armhole to be sure you don't need to lengthen it to agree with the adjusted armhole. It sounds like you need to blend between sizes along the armhole ... maybe pick a larger sleeve size to help with the added length of shortening the shoulder 1 1/4". Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
I'm so sorry that I'm just answering you now. It depends on how big the adjustment is.. .If you need to shorten you shoulder seam more than an inch, you may be working with the wrong size. It might be easier to go down a size and make room in the bust and where ever else you need more ease. If you shorten the shoulder more, the armhole does start to get bigger and the shape gets weird so the sleeve doesn't work. Hope this helps
Love how good you explain, but what if you have sloping shoulders by 1inch, but also need to shorten the shoulder length by 1.5 inch, while trying to keep the width across the high bust ? I’ve just come across this on a shirt I am trying to make, that is after I’ve done a fba x Hope you can help
If you have to shorten the shoulder 1 1/2"... It sounds like you may need to go down one size... I can't think of a way to remove that much from the length of the shoulder without also taking some off the high bust. It may be that you need a smaller size and a larger full bust adjustment ... You can also add to the high bust a little if you need to along the armhole if it's too snug in a smaller size. You can pick up the shoulder to pick it up at the armhole to fix the slope. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
I wish it were only a half inch. Simplicity 9468"easy to sew" unlined jacket. Smallest in pattern is 16 to match my wife's bust. But I need to narrow shoulders, from the collar edge to the end of the shoulder, from 8" to 5". And I have to leave the sides as they are. I didn't cut the notches because I'm going to inset the sleeve and not do the beginner instructions of laying the sleeve flat and conforming to the curve of the arm holes. Thanks much for the suggestions.
:) Sometimes the "easy to sew" beginner instructions can make it harder to sew. If you are new to setting in sleeves, trying to flat construct a sleeve that is designed to be a set-in sleeve can be harder to do vs. just setting it in, matching the underarm/side seam and notches. How do I know that? I ended up botching many a sleeve doing it that way before I learned how to set in a sleeve! Keep me posted if you need help with your wife's jacket! Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thanks for the prompt, as usual, reply. As soon as I learned how to inset sleeves, I did it for everything, regardless of the instructions. On my suit form, I left the underarm of the armscye alone and folded the shoulder back to where it needed to be, and ironed the triangles of fabric to create a new 'edge'. I inset/pinned the sleeves to that new configuration. To match the new armscye, I cut new and wider sleeves, but kept the sleeve head the same. This is one of the reasons I always buy extra yardage. Lots of it. I used the first sleeves' fabric for the lapels.The shoulders came out fine, happily, and the bodice is still loose, the way my wee wifey likes coats. The shawl collar fake lapels, separate pieces laid atop the bodice and around the back of the neck were a real pill. I had to recut the fabric to curve and lie flat when attached to the bodice. If I hadn't a suit form to conform pieces to, the collar would have rippled and rolled like a roller coaster. Your videos are always helpful and full of info. They're also calming; I have to walk away from my project and force my ADHA self to slow down and listen, and refocus. Mahalo🤙
If the cap has gotten a little to short, you can "scoop" the curves between the underarm seam and front/back notches a little bit to lengthen it. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me!
If the shoulder seam is sitting on the tip of your shoulder (meaning it's in the right place.. but the neckline is too wide and gaping away from you, you can take some ease out along the CF edge to make the neckline more narrow. If you need the ease through the bust, waist and hips, you can add some back along the side seam. This way you're not adjusting the shoulder if you don't need to. I'm so sorry for the delay in responding!
If you're shortening the shoulder to get the armhole up to the tip of your shoulder, you need to shorten it enough to get the armhole positioned properly. If you have more than 3/4" - 1" to remove, check to see if you're working with the right size or consider using a different pattern that's in a better agreement with your shape.
Hi... That's a lot to remove from the shoulder (you would be taking in the chest/upper bust 4"-6" as well.) Can you email me a photo of you wearing a top that needs this adjustment so I can see what it looks like? (jsterndesigns37@gmail.com
If you take the shoulder up, you're shortening the armhole... Walk the sleeve cap into the armhole to see how much length you need to remove from the sleeve cap to make it agree with your shortened armhole... Hope this helps!
3 cm is kind of a lot. You can try this method ua-cam.com/video/OF1FFZvPgVk/v-deo.html I would take 2 cm off the shoulder... then shorten the base of the armhole/side seam .5 cm on the front/back... To make the sleeve fit, take in the top of the side seams .5 cm too.
You're the only one who does these explanations so clearly and so well. I hope you tackle 2 piece sleeves as well, one day. I'd love to sit down with you and learn how to insert an unerarm gusset and how to add extra material for a rolled cuff on a jacket sleeve. Lining makes everything more difficult to deal with.
Thank you for your kind words!! Those are all great topics. And, you've given me an idea. I have a friend who just opened her own tailor shop... Maybe I'll do some tutorials with her over at her shop to show how to deal with the underarm gusset and rolled cuff on a jacket sleeve with a lining. Stay Tuned! Thanks for watching
I am so excited! I anticipate each video because you're clear, take your time, and explain things us newbies are overthinking about. Your videos give more actual teaching information because you not only answer, but show why it's the answer and what else to look out for. Thanks for all your excellent work!
Thank you for the clear visual explanation. I am a visual learner and this makes total sense. I have a nice silk shirt with shoulders slightly too long. I hesitate to make alterations as I really don’t want to alter the sleeves. This video gives confidence that I can take in the shoulders for a small amount without altering the sleeves.
My Pleasure! Be careful when you're picking out the seam along the armhole so you don't damage the silk. :) Thanks for watching
Best explanation I have seen. I usually have to make my shoulders narrower and this explains it so well! Thank you!
Thanks Jane!
This is such a good explanation. So shortening the shoulder does not require a change to the sleeve pattern but changing the slope does. Thank you
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Thank you for posting this! I’ve been looking for info on this and couldn’t find a video on it. 🤗
Vera Matson ...Happy to help, thanks for watching!
A really straightforward and clear tutorial. I always go to your channel as I understand how you explain pattern alterations. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
This is perfect. Thank you - you have explained exactly what I need to know quickly and without excessive blah blah blahing! Simple and to the point - perfect.
Thanks so much!
I am so glad I found you! For the first time I can actually see and understand how it's done. THANK YOU!!😁
I'm so happy you found me too... and that this helps you! Thanks for fitting along with me!
I really appreciate the way you explained this. Very clear and answering my concerns about adjusting a pattern! The original tutorial I found showing how to adjust shoulder seams didn't address the sleeves at all and I was so concerned. Your tutorial happened to appear on my UA-cam feed and is the exact answer I needed! Thank you!
So happy my tutorial found you! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi from England. This is so much better than the narrow should adjustment that I have been doing. Thank you for doing these videos.
Christine Martin ...Yay! thanks so much for watching!
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thank you SO much!
You're welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
This is literally the clearest explanation I have seen on adjusting shoulders/armholes. I feel I could do this. Thank you! Quick question, what if I also wanted to take in the side seams of my shirt by 1/2 inch on each side - 1) how much would I have to adjust each sleeve (only 1/2 inch?), and 2) would I still adjust the sleeve at the curve, or at the straight end? I guess the question really is, are all sleeve adjustments made on the curve only?
I'm so sorry for the delayed response. If you need to take in side seam and shorten the shoulder, you can draw the horizontal line a little bit below the base of the armhole instead of at the armhole. Then you can slide the entire armhole and the very top of the side seam in 1/2"... true up the rest of the side seam below the adjustment to take the entire side seam in. Hope this helps!
Hi Jen, I just discovered your videos.your explanations are so easy to follow. A great successor to the wonderful resources and classes offered by Manchester Sewing.
So happy you found me! ... So many good classes and memories of working a Manchester Sewing! Thank you for following along with me!
Amazing, solved my problem, exciting to perfect my fit now!
I am so happy to hear this helps you... Thanks for fitting along with me
That was so helpful. Thank you for explaining it so clearly!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
Excellent! This was very helpful! Attempting to narrow shoulders on ready to wear garments. Thank you for your calm and pleasant delivery. You are a great teacher, I will look up your other tutorials
Glad it was helpful! and I apologize for the delayed response!
Today I am doing that very thing with my shoulder and neckline. I cut the entire shoulder off and shifted it a half inch to the center. I'm hoping this will decrease the shoulder seam and close up the neck. At least that is my thinking . I am attempting for the first time to make a top that actually fits correctly. Thank you loads and loads for your time and effort. Many blessings to you and yours.
Thank you for your kind words. Cutting off the entire shoulder seam and shift it toward the neckline it does shift fabric off the shoulder and closes the neckline. This is a good way to do it if the shoulder seam is the right length.
Super helpful for me adjusting the pattern of my burda shirt pattern. I have narrow shoulders so this is the exact modification I'm trying to do. Much appreciated. 😊
My pleasure.. Thanks for fitting along with me!
Great clear instructions for a common issue. Thank you for your time on this!
Happy to help! Thanks for fitting along with me
Fabulous tutorial, I learn so much from you. Thank you for sharing your expertise!
Thanks so much! and thanks for watching
This is so well explained, thank you so much!!
You're so welcome! Thank you for fitting along with me!
Thank you so much you made this sound so easy, some others I’ve seen make it extremely complicated.
Happy to hear! Thanks for watching.
this is amazing and so clear!! thank you so much!!
You're so welcome! Thanks for watching
OMG!!! IVE BEEN LOOKING FOR THIS!!
THANK YOU!
So happy to help! Thanks for fitting along with me
Excellent, easy to understand tutorial. Thank you!
Happy to help! Thanks for fitting along with you, Jen
I did not ask the question, but I had the very same problem!! Thank you for this excellent tutorial!!
Happy this helps! thanks for watching
J Stern Designs I was going to go to the trouble of doing an FBA on one size down in the pattern for this problem but this solution seems so much easier and sensible for a small adjustment. Again, thank you!
Thank you. That solves my problem too!!
Glad to help!
Brilliant explanation. Thanks so much!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me
Thank you for posting this. How do I adjust shoulder seam of three centimeters too long and the sleeve accordingly. Thank you
I think I made a good plan of attack... see your second comment :) Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you! I routinely need quite extreme adjustments in both the slope and length of shoulder (super square, super narrow shoulders here!) this will help me to adjust the sleeve.
I'm so happy this helps you! Thanks for watching :)
Thanks so much for this! I often have to shorten the arm opening and it looks like the principle would be the same. Very helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words... If you shorten the arm opening, then you would shorten the sleeve cap (slash and overlap). Thanks for watching
I can't thank you enough for this info.great video; very helpful.
You're very welcome! I'm so happy this helped you... Thanks for watching
Brilliant, been struggling with this thanks 😊
Happy to help! Thanks for fitting along with me.
so, so helpful, thank you!
You're so welcome!
Excellent tutorial and explained so well! Thank you very much!
You're very welcome! Sorry for the delayed response!.
Hey and thanks for the video. Do u also hv a video for adjustment to broader shoulders
:) I should, I have broader shoulders too! You can do this adjustment in the reverse. Slash and spread instead of overlap the vertical slash. You can true up the armhole the same way and you shouldn't need to adjust the sleeve. Thanks for fitting along with me!
Great tutorial. Really helped me understand.. Thank you
I'm so happy to hear! Thanks for sewing along with me!
Fantastic video. Very helpful! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for fitting along with me!
Love your sleeve tutorials - really demystifying things! Thank you
Thanks so much... and thanks for watching!
Thank you. This was explained and demonstrated very well and is very helpful. Much appreciated.
You're very welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
I made the adjustments yesterday and it was so easy to do. I appreciate that you took the time to show us regarding the armhole/sleeve measurements and didn't just tell us. I haven't tested it yet.@@JSternDesigns
Thank you for the explanation. My question is the sleeve width at the cap needs adjustment? Because now the sleeve will set in deeper into the bodice.
If you need to shorten the shoulder, because it's hanging off your shoulder, shortening it, draws the armhole back into a position... not deeper into the bodice. After you shorten the shoulder, walk the sleeve cap around the armhole to check how much ease there is. That's how you can be sure you don't need to adjust the sleeve cap.... Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for your video, I enjoy this.
Glad you enjoyed it Thanks for watching!
This is awesome helpful! Thank you! 👏👏👏
Glad it was helpful! and thank you for fitting along with me
Execellant explanation. Thank you.
So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Happy to help! Thank you for following along with me
Fantastic. Just solved my current problem. Yay!
So sorry I didn't see your comment until now. Happy to help! Thank you for following along with me
Thank you. I have a 1 inch adjustment to my shoulder. I need to make it much narrower. I hope this works for that large an adjustment.
Can you grade the pattern down one size through the armhole and shoulder to make the amount you need to shorten a little less?
@@JSternDesigns Not really, I'm already using the smaller of 2 sizes to mitigate some of this. I'll get started on the pattern adjustment and see how it goes.
Wow thanks, I never would have thought of the sleeve adjustment 1/4 across for changes in front and back. I need that shoulder adjustment too. And I believe that answered my question of a ready made dress that needed a good half inch front and back taken up at shoulder seam because the underarm of the sleeve hung way too low...likely would have needed sleeve adjustments. But could I have just shirred the sleeve cap more? Anyway, happy with my decision to return the dress.
:) you could have taken the sleeve cap in a little by either trimming a little of the fabric away from the edge of the cap ...or taken in the under arm seam slightly :)
Loved it thanks❤️
My Pleasure! Thanks for watching
Hi there, thank you very much for this video, it was the answer to my exact problem. A small question (it might be obvious but I want to make sure) : the horizontal line on the back piece is supposed to be aligned with the horizontal line of the front piece? Do you choose specific values to trace these lines (middle of armhole, e.g.)? Thank you !
That's a great question. The horizontal line should be positioned along the armhole where the least amount of curve is. This will create less of a "truing up" issue. The front/back horizontal lines do not need to be positioned at the same level. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
@JSternDesigns thank you so much !! This channel is gold 👑
Thank you!!!
You're welcome! (and sorry for the delay in responding!)
Thanx for this excellent explanation. How do I know what kind of shoulder adjustments I need. What am I looking for?
That sounds like a great topic for an upcoming video! Meanwhile, if the armhole edge of the shoulder seam is hanging past the tip of your shoulder, that's when you would need to shorten it. If the fabric is not hanging properly on your shoulder, you need to adjust the slope of the shoulder. In the case I shared in this tutorial, the fabric at the tip of the shoulder would look like it's pulling and it would be loose and not laying right at the neckline edge. ... Stay tuned for more, thanks for watching!
Just found you here on youtube with regards to adjusting shoulders. Very informative vid. I am a busty lady with a narrow frame across the chest which means set in sleeves always hang over in bought clothes. This is frustrating. I have begun to make tops with stretchy fabrics such as french terry and cotton lycra. Low and behold....... busty strikes again. To make for my bust size, the remainder of the pattern is huge elsewhere. I have slim arms/bicepts so armholes are always too deep....................this video has given me the confidence to how I might make some changes to at least a set in sleeve t-shirt. Many thanks. I am now subscribed to see what else you do ..x
I’m so happy you found me! Please keep me posted if you have questions about anything specific... I love doing Subscriber Q & A ...thanks for watching!
Thank you
My Pleasure, thanks for fitting along with me!
This video was very helpful. I have a question. What if you are using an older pattern that called for 1/2" shoulder pads but want to update the shoulder without using the shoulder pads. Would you lower the shoulder seam the thickness of the shoulder pad? And would you adjust the top of the sleeve also?
I'm happy this is helpful for you! If you're working with a pattern that's designed for shoulder pads, I think I would adjust for that when I'm wearing the fit muslin. (sew a sample garment. I work with half the bodice when I start working)... Then pin the shoulder seam where it needs to be to sit in the center of you shoulder. Have you seen my new series, Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting? Here's a link to part 1: ua-cam.com/video/gNsFm8t_F8o/v-deo.html
This was perfect! Thank you so very much. Your process is so simple and easy.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Awesome video and this is just what I was looking for 😁👌🏽
So happy you found me! Thanks for watching
This is great, thanks. I’m having problems with the simplest of patterns..I’ve made 8 or more muslins and can’t get it right. The shoulders need narrowing and the top needs petite adjustments…..I can’t go down a dress size as I’m on the smallest for my top half but grading to next size up from hips down. When I’ve done petite adjustments it makes the arms too tight. …..I notice your petite adjustment is under the neckline, I cant do that on this pattern as it would be in the curved part of the armhole which you said avoid……also what order should I do the adjustments in? Narrow shoulders 1st or last? I’m determined to get it right…it’s the love notions Candence dress and basically the armhole sits far too low so I have restricted Movement…..I’ve tried altering the back seam to allow for a sway back but it looked bumpy! It’s woven material. I really appreciate your videos. Sorry for all the questions!Thanks
So happy you're fitting along with me. Instead of doing the traditional petite the armhole adjustment, try raising the base of the armhole... Here's a tutorial for that ua-cam.com/video/ZcPS61NbVUg/v-deo.html. You can narrow the shoulder, true up the armhole, then raise the base of the armhole. If your cb seam looks bumpy after doing a sway back adjustment, maybe try making two slash lines from the CB to side seam and split the total your pleating out. This may make the fabric lay smoother. Hope this helps!
@@JSternDesigns thank you for taking the time to reply….I think you’re the only UA-camr that does this, makes for a very loyal follower! I will try this although I did think I needed the petite adj all the way across to lift everything up to where it should be eg waist, shoulders etc but will def try your way first!! It’s a good job I have so many old sheets (begged from family and friends!) . Thanks again, looking forward to bodice tutorial later.
Hi J , thanks for the interesting video. I would like to alter my husbands shoulder length on a ready to wear shirt, and do not have a pattern,
Are you able to demonstrate how this is done without a pattern. Many thanks
Hi Aine, Happy Dance... I already did a video for that! Here's the link (keep me posted if you have questions) ua-cam.com/video/OF1FFZvPgVk/v-deo.html
Just found your channel. Great explanation. Could you perhaps show us on yourself, when one might need to adjust the shoulder slope? I mean a before and after on a finished garment if that's not too much to ask😁
That is a great suggestion, and I'm trying to add before and after pics when I have them. Here is a tutorial where I showed a pic of one of my wonderful subscriber wearing a top that needed a shoulder slope adjustment. ua-cam.com/video/-D6BmIiMNXY/v-deo.html thanks for fitting along with me!
You are always so helpful. My problem is that one shoulder slope is 1/2” lower than the other. What is the best way to deal with this??
I have been cutting out for the higher shoulder then removing 1/4” from the lower side then I also lower the armhole by a 1/4 so as to not have to adjust the sleeve…would this be right. It does make the shoulder seam not quite match up. Or should I be adjusting the sleeve? Thanks for any inside 💖
That's a great question.... and perfect timing. I will answer this next week on Fit Tip Tuesday! Stay Tuned :)
@@JSternDesigns oh thank you so much, I’ll be watching💖
Thanks for the tip. Where can the dotted paper be purchased?
If you google dotted, gridded or alpha numeric paper, you will find lots of options... I get mine from a variety of websites like Panda Trim. So Sorry for the delayed response
Really enjoyed your video. Can I ask what brand your clear ruler grid is? thanks
I'm so happy you enjoyed this tutorial. Here's my Amazon Associate Link to my favorite clear grid ruler. jsterndesigns.com/product/clear-grid-ruler/
OK, there are hundreds of sleeve adaptations but you rarely see the sewing & hanging of the garment. Can you add just a snipp of what to expect? Thanks
That's a great idea.... Stay tuned!
I need to narrow by 1.25" which basically means (for instance) an 8 in the shoulders and neck, 18 in the upper bust and arms, 22 in the bust, and 28 in the waist and hips. Does this adjustment still mean not changing the sleeve if the slope is the same?
If you have a significant amount to shorten your shoulder (I would say more than 3/4") You should walk the sleeve into the armhole to be sure you don't need to lengthen it to agree with the adjusted armhole. It sounds like you need to blend between sizes along the armhole ... maybe pick a larger sleeve size to help with the added length of shortening the shoulder 1 1/4". Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me
Is this the same for bigger adjustments?
I'm so sorry that I'm just answering you now. It depends on how big the adjustment is.. .If you need to shorten you shoulder seam more than an inch, you may be working with the wrong size. It might be easier to go down a size and make room in the bust and where ever else you need more ease. If you shorten the shoulder more, the armhole does start to get bigger and the shape gets weird so the sleeve doesn't work. Hope this helps
Love how good you explain, but what if you have sloping shoulders by 1inch, but also need to shorten the shoulder length by 1.5 inch, while trying to keep the width across the high bust ?
I’ve just come across this on a shirt I am trying to make, that is after I’ve done a fba x
Hope you can help
If you have to shorten the shoulder 1 1/2"... It sounds like you may need to go down one size... I can't think of a way to remove that much from the length of the shoulder without also taking some off the high bust. It may be that you need a smaller size and a larger full bust adjustment ... You can also add to the high bust a little if you need to along the armhole if it's too snug in a smaller size. You can pick up the shoulder to pick it up at the armhole to fix the slope. Hope this helps, thanks for watching
I wish it were only a half inch. Simplicity 9468"easy to sew" unlined jacket. Smallest in pattern is 16 to match my wife's bust. But I need to narrow shoulders, from the collar edge to the end of the shoulder, from 8" to 5". And I have to leave the sides as they are. I didn't cut the notches because I'm going to inset the sleeve and not do the beginner instructions of laying the sleeve flat and conforming to the curve of the arm holes.
Thanks much for the suggestions.
:) Sometimes the "easy to sew" beginner instructions can make it harder to sew. If you are new to setting in sleeves, trying to flat construct a sleeve that is designed to be a set-in sleeve can be harder to do vs. just setting it in, matching the underarm/side seam and notches. How do I know that? I ended up botching many a sleeve doing it that way before I learned how to set in a sleeve! Keep me posted if you need help with your wife's jacket! Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thanks for the prompt, as usual, reply. As soon as I learned how to inset sleeves, I did it for everything, regardless of the instructions. On my suit form, I left the underarm of the armscye alone and folded the shoulder back to where it needed to be, and ironed the triangles of fabric to create a new 'edge'. I inset/pinned the sleeves to that new configuration. To match the new armscye, I cut new and wider sleeves, but kept the sleeve head the same. This is one of the reasons I always buy extra yardage. Lots of it. I used the first sleeves' fabric for the lapels.The shoulders came out fine, happily, and the bodice is still loose, the way my wee wifey likes coats. The shawl collar fake lapels, separate pieces laid atop the bodice and around the back of the neck were a real pill. I had to recut the fabric to curve and lie flat when attached to the bodice. If I hadn't a suit form to conform pieces to, the collar would have rippled and rolled like a roller coaster.
Your videos are always helpful and full of info. They're also calming; I have to walk away from my project and force my ADHA self to slow down and listen, and refocus.
Mahalo🤙
I shortened the shoulders on my premade dress with a cap sleeve by 1 inch. the cap sleeve has no gathers. How do I make the sleeve fit the dress?
If the cap has gotten a little to short, you can "scoop" the curves between the underarm seam and front/back notches a little bit to lengthen it. Hope this helps, thanks for fitting along with me!
What if we have to shorten the soulder about 1.50 cm as I have a gaping of neck about 3 cm .
If the shoulder seam is sitting on the tip of your shoulder (meaning it's in the right place.. but the neckline is too wide and gaping away from you, you can take some ease out along the CF edge to make the neckline more narrow. If you need the ease through the bust, waist and hips, you can add some back along the side seam. This way you're not adjusting the shoulder if you don't need to. I'm so sorry for the delay in responding!
I am working with I manʻs shirt patter and need to bring in the should seam about the 1.5 inches…..do you think that amount will affect the arm hole?
What is the maximum you would shorten the shoulder measurement?
If you're shortening the shoulder to get the armhole up to the tip of your shoulder, you need to shorten it enough to get the armhole positioned properly. If you have more than 3/4" - 1" to remove, check to see if you're working with the right size or consider using a different pattern that's in a better agreement with your shape.
If I were to shorten the shoulder seam by 2-3” and move the bottom of the arm hole up... would that affect the shape of the sleeve?
Hi... That's a lot to remove from the shoulder (you would be taking in the chest/upper bust 4"-6" as well.) Can you email me a photo of you wearing a top that needs this adjustment so I can see what it looks like? (jsterndesigns37@gmail.com
Very helpful, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I’m taking shoulders up, not adding
If you take the shoulder up, you're shortening the armhole... Walk the sleeve cap into the armhole to see how much length you need to remove from the sleeve cap to make it agree with your shortened armhole... Hope this helps!
I love you J
Thanks! ...and thanks for fitting along with me
good vedio
Thanks and thanks for watching!
This is a shirt bought from supplier thats too big
3 cm is kind of a lot. You can try this method ua-cam.com/video/OF1FFZvPgVk/v-deo.html I would take 2 cm off the shoulder... then shorten the base of the armhole/side seam .5 cm on the front/back... To make the sleeve fit, take in the top of the side seams .5 cm too.
Thank you
Thank you! ❤
You're welcome 😊