Thank you so much for this very helpful tutorial. I always need a petite adjustment of the armholes. I also always need a high round back and forward shoulder adjustment. In what order would you recommend making these adjustments, and since I have a high round back, should I avoid doing a petite adjustment of the back armhole? Thanks so much for your guidance.
Thank you So Much!! I am 4'11" and have always had this problem, whether RTW or patterns. If I could just pull the garment up from the shoulders it would fit better - just as you demonstrated. Now I know how to address this problem. I really appreciate your teaching!
You can do it!! I recently finished a new series that deals with bodice fitting from the top of the pattern down to the hem. Here's a link to part with (you can also get the PDF companions with QR Codes to video tutorials. :) ua-cam.com/video/gNsFm8t_F8o/v-deo.html Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
If the garment is not yet cut, raising the bottom of the armscye by adding the needed amount at the top of the underarm seam and the sleeve to match would accomplish the same thing without affecting the dart placement and bodice overall length. If cut, a godet might do the same thing. I've just tried this to remove gaping at the front bodice, looking like a downward dart is called for. The armscye was just too long in the front, requiring a hidden dart where a princess seam might go.
That is true. I've shown how to add to the base of the armhole here: ua-cam.com/video/ZcPS61NbVUg/v-deo.html Depending on how much you need to adjust, some methods work better than others! Thanks for fitting along with me!
I have to do this change for every pattern even petite patterns. The other thing that happens is the bust dart will raise but at my age I need to lower it by at least as much as it was raised (usually more) so keep that in mind. Great tutorial.
Thank you so much! I just did this adjustment on my not petite but broad husband, and wish I had seen your sleeve cap adjustment earlier. Your technique is much more straightforward than what I did.
You’ve saved me from tossing my Vogue fitting pattern out the window! I’m 5’2” so when I got to the sleeve hole, err - armscye it was way too big. And although the pattern has rather good alteration instructions there are none about this particular problem. I had no idea what to do with it and then found your explanation out of the blue. Now I’m going to try again - thank you thank you thank you!
This was very helpful! I'm 4"9', it took me way too long to realize that this was one of the fit issues I always have. I would love to see a video on how to do a high bust adjustment. My apex hits just barely below the level of the bottom of my armscye, and a lot of my fullness is above the apex. For a long time I thought I might need to do a FBA, but I wasn't sure because I don't consider myself to be particularly busty, I'm about halfway between a D and a DD, so I think that what would work better is adjusting my pattern so that the fullness for the bust is higher.
:) Yes, getting your bust dart in the right spot is important... You can use this method if you also need to shorten the armhole (my guess is that you do because of your height). If it's still too low after doing this adjustment, here's a link to moving the bust dart itself. In this tutorial I'm moving the bust dart down... but you can use the same steps to move it up! ua-cam.com/video/tJ5Lu_ihwuA/v-deo.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Oh Thankyou for that. I have a lovely dress that needs that and is fitted and gaping. Store bought one. I need to alter that one too but it will be a lot of unpicking.!!!
My Pleasure! For ready to wear, you can pleat out the amount you need to remove... but you'll have to take it off the shoulder seam and skim it off the top of the sleeve cap so you can put it back together. Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I can’t believe you answered my question…I’m leaping out of bed now to try it! Of course I’ve also got to do a sway back adjustment (just watched your video) & now need to figure out if I have narrow shoulders!! Seems quite mad that I don’t know….going to head over to your shoulder videos……I can never work out which points to measure! Thank you again!
:) My Pleasure! You can take an "approximate" measurement of your shoulder length. (It's a little subjective to find the base of your neck) Find the point on your shoulder where you can feel the joint move when you pick your arm up. Measure from that point to the base of the shoulder. That's the measurement of your shoulder. Keep in mind that the length of the shoulder seam is going to be shorter than that if the neckline isn't sitting right at the base of your neck. The more open the neckline is, the shorter the shoulder seam will be. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching
Wow I needed this fit answer. I have had this problem for so long and I haven’t been able to find an answer to this problem. I will be trying it. Not sure if my shoulder fit is a problem either. Thank you so much.
Happy to hear this helps! If you're shoulder seam is too long, that can cause problems too. Here's a tutorial showing how to shorten the shoulder seam... ua-cam.com/video/3AnNFJqsjmg/v-deo.html Thanks for fitting along with me
This is so very helpful. Sewing on the back burner next couple of days. Starting to get ready for Florida & grandchildren. Like the chewy cat I feel accomplished. I made my first wearable summer top . Is it perfect uh no! However It is wearable. I’m hoping to copy my pattern & do few changes to work on a tunic top while I’m down in Florida. I’ll be looking forward to your Saturday videos.
Hi Jen, I have never seen this adjustment before! I always seem to have extra fabric above my bust area, I’m going to look into whether this is the right adjustment for me. Thank you as always, you have the best content on your channel. Could you possibly do a video that talks about the different Sewing Society’s and Sewing Expo’s that happen every year in the U.S.? You’ve mentioned some you have belonged to and shows you have taught at. Thanks!
So happy to hear you are enjoying my channel!! A calendar of In-Person Sewing Events is a great idea!! Stay Tuned for that, thank you for following along with me
@@JSternDesigns I do have an additional question. I'm making a vest which has princess seams & I have pinched out the amount above the bust. Before I pinched it out the armhole is fine. The vest is sleeveless. Should I lower the front armhole opening the same amount as what I'm taking out above?
Love the tutorial but was wondering if you were making a blouse or shirt wouldn't you need to take the same amount out of the collar and collar stand ?
Thank you so much! Good News, this adjustment does not affect the neckline and collar. But, you do need to shorten the button placket if it's a separate piece! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great tutorial, I am 5ft tall so need to make this adjustment, I have been doing it wrong! Looking forward to trying this. Many thanks for all the support and advice you provide to us all. I have a 12" difference between my high bust and full bust. I am struggling with such a large adjustment, even with patterns that have full bust options I still need to do another FBA. Would you consider giving some advice in one of your lessons on how to deal with this issue?
Thank you! (If you need to make this adjustment on a top with a deeper neckline that's getting in the way, check out today's Fit Tip Tuesday!)... a 12" difference between high and full bust is a challenge to work with. I'll put this topic on my short list of upcoming tutorials.... In the meantime, I know that doing a 3/4" FBA.. .truing it up ... then doing a second FBA on the adjusted pattern piece works to make a more significant change. Thanks for watching!
@@JSternDesigns T Thank you so much for the advice, I had not thought to do multiple FBA's - I will try this option. I really appreciate all you do for us on your channel.
But this raises the bust dart. So you have to lower it. And if you have a large bicep you won't have much sleeve cap left, add a large FBA, shoulder width and slant, doagers hump etc. and you have a Frankenpattern. I wish there was a variation of top down center out for bodices. And Q: how does one do all this on RTW?
It's interesting that you mention a TDCO Fitting technique for bodices. The most effective ways to adjust any garment starts by getting the key areas into the proper position vertically first (Top Down) Then you work on the ease of the garment (Center Out). Fitting a bodice works the same You start at the top (the shoulders)... Make sure the shoulder seams are sitting on your shoulder properly... Then you go down... how is the armhole... then the position of the bust dart, position of waistline and finally hem. This way you adjust from the top because it affects everything below. (If you started with the bust dart then up to the shoulder, you would have to rework the bust dart.) After you've got everything in the right place vertically (starting at the top), you work on adjusting the ease (center out). Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Yes, if you need to shorten the chest you would use this adjustment. Thank you for asking... I should have run through some reasons why you might need to shorten the armhole!
Thank you so much for this clear explanation! How would this apply to a dress with a dolman bodice with a side dart perhaps an inch below where the dolman sleeve curves out from the side? Could the petite adjustment cause problems with the way the sleeve sits? I'm definitely planning to make a muslin first. Thank you again!
That's interesting... I'm going to have to try this first... I'm wondering how important it is to shorten an armhole that's so oversized... Stay tuned!! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much for one more beautiful video. I have a question of my own. Very often ( I am a designer by the way ) I give my sewer a dress to make and I notice occasionally that everything is great apart for the ending of the CB invisible zipper which hits the level of the hip. It can sometimes appear like a small bubble right at the end of it as if one would be inclined to pinch a little excess length there to smooth it. Would that be a sewing issue or is it also in the pattern that can be fixed? Many many thanks. Also in the same note I think a lot of people struggle with darts and how to end them smoothly without bubbles. I know this is in the sewing but can it be also marked in the pattern to guide a sewer to end each point more smoothly? And a parallel question to that is what is the right length of the dart beyond which you find it creates an issue or bubbling? How can one tell if a dart should be longer or shorter. Many many thanks as always for sharing your wisdom and experience with the community.
Sometimes fabric can stretch when you're putting in a zipper, are you using strips of fusible interfacing along the edges before you start? (That may help... but I've never seen a bubble appear at the top of one of my invisible zips, so I'm kinda guessing :)))) ...Darts, that's a great topic, I'll add that to my short list of upcoming subscriber Q&A LIVE on Wednesdays. Thank you for the kind words and for following along with me!
@@JSternDesigns thank you so much for your response . Yes I use tearaway on cb prior to sewing the zipper . The bubble if I can describe it as such can sometimes be where the zipper ends not at the start of it . I’m wondering if it’s the zipper tape end kicking . Is there a preference to how the pattern should be to facilitate a smooth zipper sewing ? Like as straight as possible where it ends at the cb hip ?
This is such a great adjustment. So if the amount you pleat out is let's say 1/4 inch, would that be a 1/2" adjustment on the pattern since the "pleat" has two sides? Thanks for this great tutorial!
Hey Jennifer, Very helpful video. I’m trying to make this adjustment on a tee shirt pattern. I removed 5/8” front and back and 5/8” across the sleeve cap, measured vertically. Now the seams don’t walk right. The sleeve seamline is shorter than the seamline of the armscye. Do you have any idea why this might happen? It seems like it should be longer, if anything. I also saw your other video about shortening the bodice without altering the sleeve. Maybe I should try that?
hummm... If you shortened the front and back armholes 5/8" ...and slashed across the cap and lowered it to remove 5/8", you've made like adjustments to the pieces, so they should fit together. One thought... Did you check how the sleeve fits into the armhole before you adjusted it? Some knit tee patterns have negative ease... meaning the cap is shorter than the armhole. (You have to stretch the cap to fit the armhole). You can also reduce the amount that you remove from the cap to make it equal to the armhole. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
That's a great question! Stay Tuned, I'm starting a new Video Series "Subscriber Q&A" where I'm going to tackle a couple questions that may be a little to complicated to answer here. This one is going on the list! Thanks for watching
I'm really enjoying your videos. I've always had problems with tops. I'm 5'4", overweight, apple shaped, short waisted, narrow shoulders in the front, broad shoulder blades in the back, big chested, and my bust and underarm area are 'one and the same'. My bra straps are always too far out and fall off my shoulders. I'm ⅝" narrower than my sister between the neck and shoulders along the shoulder seam. So, given what I've seen in your videos so far.. I'm thinking I'll need to increase the bust in the front as you did here. Slash and move the upper bust/shoulder area smaller towards the center line of the pattern. Shorten the pattern by cutting and moving it up however many inches it needs. Then slash and increase the back armhole/blade area similar to what you did in the front for the bust. Do I shorten the pattern first? Then what? Front shoulder area? Bust then the back? Would you be able to give me a starting point? Lol.. after all this.. I'm thinking maybe it would be easier to just run around in a moo-moo 😂 Kelly from Ontario
I'm so happy to hear that you're enjoying my channel! Starting a new LIVE event that's going to stream on Wednesdays at 1:00 pm est... Subscriber Q&A ... I'm going to include your question in this weeks stream... (I started typing an answer to you and it's getting too long :) ...No moo-moo for you! Thanks for fitting along with me! Here's the link to the Live Q&A ua-cam.com/users/live2tS5u_LNW7Y
If you have a shirt that you love and you're willing to spend the time to fix it... You can take the the top of the sleeve and collar off. Then shorten the armhole by trimming off the amount you need to shorten from the shoulder edges and trim off an equal amount off the top of the sleeve cap... Then sew shoulder seam and sleeve back together. Try to pin the collar back on to see how much you need to "scoop" the neckline to put the length back so the collar will fit back on. :) I will also put this on my list of upcoming tutorials... Thanks for watching
Thanks for all the tips. I have a problem I'm battling with at the moment. I need to calculate the dart width I need for my bust size. I'm a (Europe) size 34 shoulder (straight and forward thrusting); 36 A cup, 38 waist, skinny arms and a shorter torso while being 168 cm tall and normal weight. I have to do all kinds of alterations. Problem is I have patterns, size 36, though several have different size darts. (Talking about the side bust dart. Too small and too big. I'm tearing my hair out. It's been 2 years and I still haven't been able to draft a basic bodice which fits me. I don't have any sewing buddies who can help me with fitting issues although I do have two mirrors. I've sewn about 25 muslins. I still haven't given up but I feel a bit despondent. I have Winifred Aldrich pattern cutting. I can't find this dart calculation anywhere. It says standard size 7. 7 what? Length? Width?. On line I found something about sine/hypoteneuse/opposite. The explanation was too vague or difficult for me, I don't know which. It would be wonderful if you could help me with my problem. P.S I live in Sweden. Sewing your own clothes is not a big thing here.
:) When you draft your own custom bodice, the bust dart is created by the difference between your bust arc (the measurement across your full bust from side seam to side seam) and your waistline measurement. Then after the basic bodice is drafted, you rotate the waist dart to the side seam to create the bust dart. Here's a link to my Basic Bodice Draft Along Series ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNseULgqdr3hLKRrbJxZPcov.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for the advice. I spent today sewing the shoulders on my old summer dresses and at last they all fit on the armhole shoulder, bust, and neck. I wish I'd learnt this 50 years ago instead of learning to make an apron!
Argh! Help! I’ve just gone to do this and can’t…there is no point i can slash this without slashing through the neckline! It’s not a particularly low neckline either!
Thank you for asking me about this... I'm a little bit of a slug today and I didn't want to shoot a Fit Tip Tuesday for Tomorrow... But now, I can address your dilemma! Tune in tomorrow at Noon est for an easy solution! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns I don’t think you could ever, ever be described as a slug! Your enthusiasm is infectious! You make me want to keep trying…I’m determined to crack it…I just need to figure out which alteration is correct and picking it up from the shoulders seems to work….I’m working with small sizes so I think that’s why the armhole and neck seem the same level?!!
Thank you for the kind words...and I'm happy you're working on it! If you can find a second mirror that you can use to see the back view at the same time you're looking at your front view, that would really help (I recently discovered that for myself... I don't know why I spent so many years in trying to fit myself with just one mirror!). I think the neckline being level with the base of the armhole is the design of the top, not a size issue (unless it wasn't graded properly). :)
The only thing I have on my calendar in Kentucky is in October. I'm volunteering my time to teach at the University of Kentucky Master Volunteer Sewing Program. If you have a local ASG group or sewing machine store that would like to plan an event, please let me know!
If you need to remove that much, I would baste everything in before cutting to see if it works. That is a lot to shorten, maybe also check to see if you're working with the right size pattern. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thank you. The rest of the pattern fits, but the armhole in every single Kwiksew pattern that size is too deep. Since buying that pattern, I have gone to an independent pattern maker whose patterns fit me much better. I think her block/sloper is more like my own body. The only place I have to alter her patterns is for my back curves and to shorten at the lengthen/shorten lines. I really appreciate your helpful videos!
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
![Дон ДОН, Алаудинов и СБЕЖАВШИЕ из под Курска ахматовцы 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/dEfCf5IK26Q/mqdefault.jpg)
This was so very helpful! At 5’2”, I am very short between my shoulders and bust. Armholes are always too low as are bust darts. Thank you!
So happy to hear this helps... Here's a tutorial showing how to get the bust dart in the right spot too! ua-cam.com/video/tJ5Lu_ihwuA/v-deo.html
Thank you so much for this very helpful tutorial. I always need a petite adjustment of the armholes. I also always need a high round back and forward shoulder adjustment. In what order would you recommend making these adjustments, and since I have a high round back, should I avoid doing a petite adjustment of the back armhole? Thanks so much for your guidance.
Thank you So Much!! I am 4'11" and have always had this problem, whether RTW or patterns. If I could just pull the garment up from the shoulders it would fit better - just as you demonstrated. Now I know how to address this problem. I really appreciate your teaching!
You are so welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me!
I appreciate learning how to alter patterns for accommodating a petite torso. I'm a pear-shaped body type.
So happy hear this helps you! Thank you for fitting along with me
Perfect tutorial! Thanks.
At 5’1”, this is a constant problem!
Glad it helped!
I was about to give up sewing for myself. This tutorial has given me the impetus to try again. Thank you.
You can do it!! I recently finished a new series that deals with bodice fitting from the top of the pattern down to the hem. Here's a link to part with (you can also get the PDF companions with QR Codes to video tutorials. :) ua-cam.com/video/gNsFm8t_F8o/v-deo.html Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
Wow! That is exactly the problem I have with my garment makes. I can’t wait to try this technique!
So happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
I always have this issue. This prevents the distortion you get with only adjusting the shoulders.
That's so true! Thank you for fitting along with me :)
another added 'thank you', made such a difference to the comfort level!
Great to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
Even at 5’8”, I have found this adjustment very useful. If I want close, neat fit - gotta shorten the upper bodice pieces!
So happy this helps you!! Thanks for fitting along with me
I saw you in threads, so thrilled with the content in your channel!! This is so useful to me 4'10"
:) I'm so happy to hear that! Thanks for following along with me!
If the garment is not yet cut, raising the bottom of the armscye by adding the needed amount at the top of the underarm seam and the sleeve to match would accomplish the same thing without affecting the dart placement and bodice overall length. If cut, a godet might do the same thing. I've just tried this to remove gaping at the front bodice, looking like a downward dart is called for. The armscye was just too long in the front, requiring a hidden dart where a princess seam might go.
That is true. I've shown how to add to the base of the armhole here: ua-cam.com/video/ZcPS61NbVUg/v-deo.html Depending on how much you need to adjust, some methods work better than others! Thanks for fitting along with me!
I have to do this change for every pattern even petite patterns. The other thing that happens is the bust dart will raise but at my age I need to lower it by at least as much as it was raised (usually more) so keep that in mind. Great tutorial.
That's true if you're working with a top that has a bust dart, double check to make sure you didn't pick it up too high for your curves!!
Thank you so much! I just did this adjustment on my not petite but broad husband, and wish I had seen your sleeve cap adjustment earlier. Your technique is much more straightforward than what I did.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me!
You’ve saved me from tossing my Vogue fitting pattern out the window! I’m 5’2” so when I got to the sleeve hole, err - armscye it was way too big. And although the pattern has rather good alteration instructions there are none about this particular problem. I had no idea what to do with it and then found your explanation out of the blue. Now I’m going to try again - thank you thank you thank you!
So happy to save your fitting pattern!! Thanks so much for fitting along with me!
This was very helpful! I'm 4"9', it took me way too long to realize that this was one of the fit issues I always have. I would love to see a video on how to do a high bust adjustment. My apex hits just barely below the level of the bottom of my armscye, and a lot of my fullness is above the apex. For a long time I thought I might need to do a FBA, but I wasn't sure because I don't consider myself to be particularly busty, I'm about halfway between a D and a DD, so I think that what would work better is adjusting my pattern so that the fullness for the bust is higher.
:) Yes, getting your bust dart in the right spot is important... You can use this method if you also need to shorten the armhole (my guess is that you do because of your height). If it's still too low after doing this adjustment, here's a link to moving the bust dart itself. In this tutorial I'm moving the bust dart down... but you can use the same steps to move it up! ua-cam.com/video/tJ5Lu_ihwuA/v-deo.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for this video....needing this like yesterday 😃 I'm currently altering a top & this is right on time.
So happy this helps you! Thanks for fitting along with me
Love your fit Tuesday videos. Always so informative. Thank you for sharing.
You are so welcome! And thank you for fitting along with me
Oh Thankyou for that. I have a lovely dress that needs that and is fitted and gaping. Store bought one. I need to alter that one too but it will be a lot of unpicking.!!!
My Pleasure! For ready to wear, you can pleat out the amount you need to remove... but you'll have to take it off the shoulder seam and skim it off the top of the sleeve cap so you can put it back together. Thanks for fitting along with me
Yes! I love this video! Thank you so so much! I’m only 5’ 1” and this is so helpful!!! ❤
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
You are a great teacher thank you so much
Thank you for the kind words! ..and thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! I can’t believe you answered my question…I’m leaping out of bed now to try it! Of course I’ve also got to do a sway back adjustment (just watched your video) & now need to figure out if I have narrow shoulders!! Seems quite mad that I don’t know….going to head over to your shoulder videos……I can never work out which points to measure! Thank you again!
:) My Pleasure! You can take an "approximate" measurement of your shoulder length. (It's a little subjective to find the base of your neck) Find the point on your shoulder where you can feel the joint move when you pick your arm up. Measure from that point to the base of the shoulder. That's the measurement of your shoulder. Keep in mind that the length of the shoulder seam is going to be shorter than that if the neckline isn't sitting right at the base of your neck. The more open the neckline is, the shorter the shoulder seam will be. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching
Wow I needed this fit answer. I have had this problem for so long and I haven’t been able to find an answer to this problem. I will be trying it. Not sure if my shoulder fit is a problem either. Thank you so much.
Happy to hear this helps! If you're shoulder seam is too long, that can cause problems too. Here's a tutorial showing how to shorten the shoulder seam... ua-cam.com/video/3AnNFJqsjmg/v-deo.html Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you, Jen....your tips help me ever!
I'm so glad! Thanks for fitting along with me
Love your fit tip Tuesdays!
Thanks so much! ...and thank you for fitting along with me
This is so very helpful. Sewing on the back burner next couple of days. Starting to get ready for Florida & grandchildren. Like the chewy cat I feel accomplished. I made my first wearable summer top . Is it perfect uh no! However It is wearable. I’m hoping to copy my pattern & do few changes to work on a tunic top while I’m down in Florida. I’ll be looking forward to your Saturday videos.
Thanks so much... Have fun in Florida with your grandchildren!! ...and thanks for fitting along with me
Hi. I always learn something new. Thank you!
You are so welcome! ...Thank you for fitting along with me
How do you alter the area around the neck in front and back that is too big?
That's a good one! Stay tuned, I'm putting that on my short list! Thanks for fitting along with me
Hi Jen, I have never seen this adjustment before! I always seem to have extra fabric above my bust area, I’m going to look into whether this is the right adjustment for me. Thank you as always, you have the best content on your channel. Could you possibly do a video that talks about the different Sewing Society’s and Sewing Expo’s that happen every year in the U.S.? You’ve mentioned some you have belonged to and shows you have taught at. Thanks!
So happy to hear you are enjoying my channel!! A calendar of In-Person Sewing Events is a great idea!! Stay Tuned for that, thank you for following along with me
Thank you !!! I really needed that. Donna H
So happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you! So helpful! Love these tips!
You're so welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns I do have an additional question. I'm making a vest which has princess seams & I have pinched out the amount above the bust. Before I pinched it out the armhole is fine. The vest is sleeveless. Should I lower the front armhole opening the same amount as what I'm taking out above?
Helps me as well! 2 people ❤
So happy to hear! Thanks for fitting along with me
Love the tutorial but was wondering if you were making a blouse or shirt wouldn't you need to take the same amount out of the collar and collar stand ?
Thank you so much! Good News, this adjustment does not affect the neckline and collar. But, you do need to shorten the button placket if it's a separate piece! Thanks for fitting along with me
Great tutorial, I am 5ft tall so need to make this adjustment, I have been doing it wrong! Looking forward to trying this. Many thanks for all the support and advice you provide to us all.
I have a 12" difference between my high bust and full bust. I am struggling with such a large adjustment, even with patterns that have full bust options I still need to do another FBA. Would you consider giving some advice in one of your lessons on how to deal with this issue?
Thank you! (If you need to make this adjustment on a top with a deeper neckline that's getting in the way, check out today's Fit Tip Tuesday!)... a 12" difference between high and full bust is a challenge to work with. I'll put this topic on my short list of upcoming tutorials.... In the meantime, I know that doing a 3/4" FBA.. .truing it up ... then doing a second FBA on the adjusted pattern piece works to make a more significant change. Thanks for watching!
@@JSternDesigns T
Thank you so much for the advice, I had not thought to do multiple FBA's - I will try this option. I really appreciate all you do for us on your channel.
But this raises the bust dart. So you have to lower it. And if you have a large bicep you won't have much sleeve cap left, add a large FBA, shoulder width and slant, doagers hump etc. and you have a Frankenpattern. I wish there was a variation of top down center out for bodices. And Q: how does one do all this on RTW?
It's interesting that you mention a TDCO Fitting technique for bodices. The most effective ways to adjust any garment starts by getting the key areas into the proper position vertically first (Top Down) Then you work on the ease of the garment (Center Out). Fitting a bodice works the same You start at the top (the shoulders)... Make sure the shoulder seams are sitting on your shoulder properly... Then you go down... how is the armhole... then the position of the bust dart, position of waistline and finally hem. This way you adjust from the top because it affects everything below. (If you started with the bust dart then up to the shoulder, you would have to rework the bust dart.) After you've got everything in the right place vertically (starting at the top), you work on adjusting the ease (center out). Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
Adjustment looks as though it would work as a hollow chest adjustment?
Yes, if you need to shorten the chest you would use this adjustment. Thank you for asking... I should have run through some reasons why you might need to shorten the armhole!
Great video. This helps so much.
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this clear explanation! How would this apply to a dress with a dolman bodice with a side dart perhaps an inch below where the dolman sleeve curves out from the side? Could the petite adjustment cause problems with the way the sleeve sits?
I'm definitely planning to make a muslin first.
Thank you again!
That's interesting... I'm going to have to try this first... I'm wondering how important it is to shorten an armhole that's so oversized... Stay tuned!! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much for one more beautiful video. I have a question of my own. Very often ( I am a designer by the way ) I give my sewer a dress to make and I notice occasionally that everything is great apart for the ending of the CB invisible zipper which hits the level of the hip. It can sometimes appear like a small bubble right at the end of it as if one would be inclined to pinch a little excess length there to smooth it. Would that be a sewing issue or is it also in the pattern that can be fixed? Many many thanks. Also in the same note I think a lot of people struggle with darts and how to end them smoothly without bubbles. I know this is in the sewing but can it be also marked in the pattern to guide a sewer to end each point more smoothly? And a parallel question to that is what is the right length of the dart beyond which you find it creates an issue or bubbling? How can one tell if a dart should be longer or shorter. Many many thanks as always for sharing your wisdom and experience with the community.
Sometimes fabric can stretch when you're putting in a zipper, are you using strips of fusible interfacing along the edges before you start? (That may help... but I've never seen a bubble appear at the top of one of my invisible zips, so I'm kinda guessing :)))) ...Darts, that's a great topic, I'll add that to my short list of upcoming subscriber Q&A LIVE on Wednesdays. Thank you for the kind words and for following along with me!
@@JSternDesigns thank you so much for your response . Yes I use tearaway on cb prior to sewing the zipper . The bubble if I can describe it as such can sometimes be where the zipper ends not at the start of it . I’m wondering if it’s the zipper tape end kicking . Is there a preference to how the pattern should be to facilitate a smooth zipper sewing ? Like as straight as possible where it ends at the cb hip ?
This is such a great adjustment. So if the amount you pleat out is let's say 1/4 inch, would that be a 1/2" adjustment on the pattern since the "pleat" has two sides? Thanks for this great tutorial!
:) Yes, double whatever you pleat out. Thanks so much for fitting along with me
Hey Jennifer,
Very helpful video. I’m trying to make this adjustment on a tee shirt pattern. I removed 5/8” front and back and 5/8” across the sleeve cap, measured vertically. Now the seams don’t walk right. The sleeve seamline is shorter than the seamline of the armscye. Do you have any idea why this might happen? It seems like it should be longer, if anything. I also saw your other video about shortening the bodice without altering the sleeve. Maybe I should try that?
hummm... If you shortened the front and back armholes 5/8" ...and slashed across the cap and lowered it to remove 5/8", you've made like adjustments to the pieces, so they should fit together. One thought... Did you check how the sleeve fits into the armhole before you adjusted it? Some knit tee patterns have negative ease... meaning the cap is shorter than the armhole. (You have to stretch the cap to fit the armhole). You can also reduce the amount that you remove from the cap to make it equal to the armhole. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
How do you make these adjustments on store bought garments
That's a great question! Stay Tuned, I'm starting a new Video Series "Subscriber Q&A" where I'm going to tackle a couple questions that may be a little to complicated to answer here. This one is going on the list! Thanks for watching
That's what I would like to know too!
I'm really enjoying your videos. I've always had problems with tops. I'm 5'4", overweight, apple shaped, short waisted, narrow shoulders in the front, broad shoulder blades in the back, big chested, and my bust and underarm area are 'one and the same'. My bra straps are always too far out and fall off my shoulders. I'm ⅝" narrower than my sister between the neck and shoulders along the shoulder seam. So, given what I've seen in your videos so far.. I'm thinking I'll need to increase the bust in the front as you did here. Slash and move the upper bust/shoulder area smaller towards the center line of the pattern. Shorten the pattern by cutting and moving it up however many inches it needs. Then slash and increase the back armhole/blade area similar to what you did in the front for the bust. Do I shorten the pattern first? Then what? Front shoulder area? Bust then the back? Would you be able to give me a starting point?
Lol.. after all this.. I'm thinking maybe it would be easier to just run around in a moo-moo 😂
Kelly from Ontario
I'm so happy to hear that you're enjoying my channel! Starting a new LIVE event that's going to stream on Wednesdays at 1:00 pm est... Subscriber Q&A ... I'm going to include your question in this weeks stream... (I started typing an answer to you and it's getting too long :) ...No moo-moo for you! Thanks for fitting along with me! Here's the link to the Live Q&A ua-cam.com/users/live2tS5u_LNW7Y
How would you make these adjustments on garments if the item is store brought.
If you have a shirt that you love and you're willing to spend the time to fix it... You can take the the top of the sleeve and collar off. Then shorten the armhole by trimming off the amount you need to shorten from the shoulder edges and trim off an equal amount off the top of the sleeve cap... Then sew shoulder seam and sleeve back together. Try to pin the collar back on to see how much you need to "scoop" the neckline to put the length back so the collar will fit back on. :) I will also put this on my list of upcoming tutorials... Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thank you so much. I will try this.
Thanks for all the tips. I have a problem I'm battling with at the moment. I need to calculate the dart width I need for my bust size. I'm a (Europe) size 34 shoulder (straight and forward thrusting); 36 A cup, 38 waist, skinny arms and a shorter torso while being 168 cm tall and normal weight. I have to do all kinds of alterations. Problem is I have patterns, size 36, though several have different size darts. (Talking about the side bust dart. Too small and too big. I'm tearing my hair out. It's been 2 years and I still haven't been able to draft a basic bodice which fits me. I don't have any sewing buddies who can help me with fitting issues although I do have two mirrors. I've sewn about 25 muslins. I still haven't given up but I feel a bit despondent. I have Winifred Aldrich pattern cutting. I can't find this dart calculation anywhere. It says standard size 7. 7 what? Length? Width?. On line I found something about sine/hypoteneuse/opposite. The explanation was too vague or difficult for me, I don't know which. It would be wonderful if you could help me with my problem. P.S I live in Sweden. Sewing your own clothes is not a big thing here.
:) When you draft your own custom bodice, the bust dart is created by the difference between your bust arc (the measurement across your full bust from side seam to side seam) and your waistline measurement. Then after the basic bodice is drafted, you rotate the waist dart to the side seam to create the bust dart. Here's a link to my Basic Bodice Draft Along Series ua-cam.com/play/PLseQVksFDkNseULgqdr3hLKRrbJxZPcov.html Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns Thank you so much! I'll do that now. I like your videos, you explain and chat about the issues in an easy and uncomplicated way.
Thank you!
I have 3 sleeveless shirt dresses I need alter. Is it possible to use this technique with a collar?
Yes, this adjustment is independent of the collar and neckline, so this adjustment does not affect it! Thanks for watching
Thanks for the advice. I spent today sewing the shoulders on my old summer dresses and at last they all fit on the armhole shoulder, bust, and neck. I wish I'd learnt this 50 years ago instead of learning to make an apron!
Argh! Help! I’ve just gone to do this and can’t…there is no point i can slash this without slashing through the neckline! It’s not a particularly low neckline either!
Thank you for asking me about this... I'm a little bit of a slug today and I didn't want to shoot a Fit Tip Tuesday for Tomorrow... But now, I can address your dilemma! Tune in tomorrow at Noon est for an easy solution! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns I don’t think you could ever, ever be described as a slug! Your enthusiasm is infectious! You make me want to keep trying…I’m determined to crack it…I just need to figure out which alteration is correct and picking it up from the shoulders seems to work….I’m working with small sizes so I think that’s why the armhole and neck seem the same level?!!
Thank you for the kind words...and I'm happy you're working on it! If you can find a second mirror that you can use to see the back view at the same time you're looking at your front view, that would really help (I recently discovered that for myself... I don't know why I spent so many years in trying to fit myself with just one mirror!). I think the neckline being level with the base of the armhole is the design of the top, not a size issue (unless it wasn't graded properly). :)
Would love to take a fitting class. I live in Paducah, Kentucky . Anywhere close?
The only thing I have on my calendar in Kentucky is in October. I'm volunteering my time to teach at the University of Kentucky Master Volunteer Sewing Program. If you have a local ASG group or sewing machine store that would like to plan an event, please let me know!
@@JSternDesigns No the only thing we have here is quilters. Thanks though 😀
Does this work if the difference is 2 inches?
If you need to remove that much, I would baste everything in before cutting to see if it works. That is a lot to shorten, maybe also check to see if you're working with the right size pattern. Hope this helps! Thanks for watching
@@JSternDesigns Thank you. The rest of the pattern fits, but the armhole in every single Kwiksew pattern that size is too deep. Since buying that pattern, I have gone to an independent pattern maker whose patterns fit me much better. I think her block/sloper is more like my own body. The only place I have to alter her patterns is for my back curves and to shorten at the lengthen/shorten lines. I really appreciate your helpful videos!
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:)