Suzuki's infamous white wire. You need to get that wire reconnected to a constant 12 volts. Just because you hooked it up to 12 V and it didn't start, doesn't mean you don't need it to start; you could be dealing with multiple issues. I've seen that wire disconnected result in a dead key turn like you're getting. And reconnecting it fixed the issue. Moreover, even when you get it started, if power to the ECM drops below 12 volts, it will start throwing random phantom sensor faults. So get that white wire connected directly to your starter battery before you troubleshoot anything else. Next, check your MOB switch (man over board). It's a likely culprit and easy to eliminate as a problem. With those two eliminated, triple check every connection at the motor. Then try hot wiring the starter. If it turns over, then start working your way back from the motor to the key switch. Your problem will be somewhere in between. I'm sure you'll figure it out without having to throw in the towel and take it to a dealer. Best of luck to you.
check the neutral switch under the motor hood where the shift cables attach and make sure cables are adjusted properly so the neutral safety switch will allow power to the starter
@@hankoskyhad a faulty switch once blocking power full power as gear was not detected, so can fail in both modes. PITA to figure out until looking with diagnose tool.
I believe it was a Suzuki, but we had a motor stop working when we were on vacation and we found an inline 30amp fuse in the motor that even the marina where it was purchased their mechanic didn't know about. It was on the top port side of the motor. Knowing today's technology, I bet the motor's ECU probably needs to be downloaded after install. Anything to get more money out of you! Good luck! The boat is looking real nice!
Some engines have a normally open kill switch and others have a normally closed kill switch. Try pulling out the kill switch fob and see if it turns over. If so, then you know you have the switch backwards.
There’s a fuse box on the front of the motor, near to harness plug. It comes with a spare fuse. I bet that’s what it is. I’m a boat dealer, used to carry Suzuki. You don’t need to plug it to the computer for first start up. It’s not a verado 😆
Isolate the issue. Run a jump box to the starter on the engine to see if it will start. That will help you figure out if it is a wiring issue or an engine issue.
I hope you don’t mind the recommendation. For the center console, can I suggest weather stripping under the 2x4? 2 strips of simple peel and stick, 1 toward the inner and 1 toward the exterior. That way you have a strip on both sides of the screws. When water is on the deck it won’t get into the center console, but also if water is in the center console it, can’t get to the screw holes and wear out the plywood decking over time, you can still put a drain hole in the interior of the console, in case water does somehow get in there. I did something similar to this when I built an out door kitchen on concrete. I’d highly recommend it, cost less than $20 bucks and allows you to remove the console and not worry about silicone or whatever else you might have planned to use.
An idea for the console. Since it is pretty deep… make the bar top hinged at the front. Then if you need to get deep in there it is much more accessible.
As many have already said, run a jump box directly to your starter then work your way out from there. In my mind that white wire needs to be connected to a live source and the MOB switch hotwired or jumped to rule it out also. Other than that great job.
You need to be shopping around for a gas powered forklift or an older skid steer that need fixing up . I saw where this young man found a broken commercial generator that has a Isuzu diesel engine he bought for $500 to put in his used blown engine skid steer . That way you could use it unload heavy items and make some extra cash with it also if you wanted . I think the older ones with wheels are alot healer than the ones w/ tracks which you wouldn’t necessarily need..
We really should connect and chat. I built a 33’ by 10’ of this platform and can be a lot of help. I can’t be too much help on Suzuki because I put a 300HP Yamaha on mine. I’ve got almost 1,000 miles on it and over 70 hours on the motor in the past month. Taken those pontoons over some real nasty waves on the lake too and they really hold up and make for a smooth ride. Usually cruise around 20MPH but have gotten it almost to 30MPH I ended up raising my motor at the 20 hour service because it was dragging a little water even though I matched the anti cavitation plate with the bottom of the pontoon. I also have a 550lb motor but the boat is over 33’ long. I think all around even with your setup you will also notice water comes up higher above the bottom of the pontoon before it gets to the lower unit. Partly because the motor pod is over a couple feet long and sits higher. You definitely have good clearance to trim your motor with the hydraulic steering but I also notice you are starting at the bottom mounting hole so you can’t get your anti cavitation plate any higher from there. I’ve looked into a jack plate myself so that might be a suggestion if you have issues. We have the same exact motor pod/mount too. I’ve really put this platform to the test already even though you started your build first so we should definitely get in touch. Mike at pontoon wholesalers has my number so feel free to let him know I said to give it to you
I would check to see if the neutral safety switch is connected properly. On most wire harnesses its 2 separate wires a yellow and brown wire. They are usually bullet connectors and plug directly into matching wires that go into the throttle at the helm. You'll have 2 sets of wires coming from the throttle your trim wires which usually connect closer to where the binnacle mounts and neutral safety switch wires which usually come out near the shift cables.
One thing that stands out to me in this video is the water separator bowl on the fuel filter. I don't think the seal on the drain valve is rated for gasoline/ethanol. I've found that they leak after a very short amount of time.
Make sure your key switch is wired correctly. Might need a jumper on it. Plug the wiring with a fuse to jump it at the motor. 25 or 30 amp. Double check your tilt switch / make sure the wires are not crossed And make sure you have a good ground, I have seen powder coat make them fail hope the info helps.
Neutral safety switch and/or lanyard switch could be opposite states. One may require NC but your switch is NO or vice versa. I know BIFB had the same issue with his engine.
I don't know how chassis grounding works for boats but maybe that's what the white wire is meant for. Also the extra long battery cables might be causing a voltage issue. Just spit balling though. Grab a multi meter and trace the battery voltage point by point. Isolate the fault by ruling things out one by one.Good luck.
The sole purpose of that white wire is to provide a constant 12 volts to the engine control module. So it should be hooked directly up to a battery. It's definitely not a ground.
Michael @Budget Buildz (UA-cam channel) was a boat mechanic before he started his channel-- maybe you could collaborate on this? He hails from South Carolina… not crazy far away? Just thinking out loud. Love your channel… enjoyed it since the first VW mini bike build.
There are two Wires to be connected to the switch inside the throttle handle. If you don’t have the switch just connect them together. Look at you wirediagramm in the usermanual
Do yourself a huge favor. Get a wiring diagram for a Suzuki with the same engine. Then you can trace the issue using a multimeter. Clearly no power is getting to the solenoid for the starter. Find the color of that wire and start tracing it backwards if you cannot find a wiring diagram. Your ground and power goes directly from the battery to the motor using those new heavy cables, so that aspect should be good. Keep up the good work, you will find the issue.
My guess is the shift cable needs to be adjusted. While the sifter itself is in neutral the motor is not. That’s where the safety switch comes in. It won’t throw an error tone because the motor itself is not in neutral.
It’s coming along really nice. Can’t wait to see the fencing. Quick question I like where you are installing the battery but do you think you should have a better access to the battery? Just seems like when the table top is on that it would be hard to get all the way in there and pull the battery.
That motor doesn't work like that. With a conventional setup, turning the key powers the relay, which powers the starter. But with this motor turning the key switch powers the EMC, which then powers the starter relay, which then powers the starter. And you have to have that white wire connected to 12v for all of that to work.
My guess is the shift cable needs to be adjusted. While the sifter itself is in neutral the motor is not. That’s where the safety switch comes in. It won’t throw an error tone because the motor itself is not in neutral.
I purchased and installed twin 2023 Suzuki 115's with digital controls and guages. Once installed I had to take the boat in to get the software loaded and the warranty activated. Mine did the same turn the key on but nothing happens. Normal
lol. I was saying, if only he had a cherry picker to get it out of the truck. Then viola! A cherry picker appears. After he gets it out of the truck. :)
Looking to do a similar build but on salt water bays with 27inch vs 25inch toons. I'm thinking it will help with the chip a bit. I've been told I might have to use a 30 inch shaft with the 27in wide toons. However, looking at you video you used the bottom bolt holes on the engine. Do you think if I used the top holes that would be enough for a 27in toon?
Possibly it has a water sensor, if it’s not detecting water in the cooling inlet, it may not start. Not sure what possible sensors these things are running now
Don’t know if you figured it out, but does the starter solenoid need to be grounded? Was building a composite airplane and had a similar issue and found the solenoid’s house needed to be grounded to the airframe. Other than that I’m guessing you pulled the lanyard to double check it wouldn’t start pulled?
Contact Team Marine Service! They have a great UA-cam channel and he is a Suzuki dealer. He helps people and maybe you can do a collaboration! Nice motor!
I worked at a powersports dealer and we had some suzuki motorcyles that needed the ecu to be unlocked(transport lock), not sure if this motor requires the same?
Sounds silly, but I bought a boat once for cheap because the guy could not get it to do anything. After messing with it, I found that the Kill switch was wired backwards. I swapped the wires and it fired up immediately. lol. Worth a try I suppose.
I did think the same... Hope he doesn't regret putting a 90 on it .. with three pontoons I would of gone with 150 on it. Allot of drag on a small motor ..
It's a party boat... with a plastic hull, not sure if you would want to try to race with it. 40 hp is typically standard on a budget pontoon or a fishing buggy, just enough to get off the dock and fight a decent head wind. 90 hp is way plenty for sightseeing or cruising to the fishing spot.
The white wire is called sub harness and I’m pretty sure that motor does not need it , new motors always come with prop hardware mounted at least 100 Suzukis all hp range, somebody opened box and took, also should have gotten primer bulb and fuel line, I think watching your vid I think you should check to make sure u actually are connecting control box neutral wire to correct harness wires is my guess 20 years boat mechanic honest guess
Love the channel. Motor is electric and Engine is combustion . Sorry just my OCD. Had the same engine in a 115 on my Manitou. Great engine and very quiet. Also I am in love with the lighted tubes. At 20hrs the oil light will start blinking and beeping. Will freak you out. Just computer telling you that it is time to do your first oil change.
Outboard motors are crazy expensive the larger they get. What HP would you suggest and why? have you checked the rating on the hull that he is using? Elaborate.
@@JP-jq1qx Based on what I’ve seen other boats of similar size utilize I would have thought 150 hp at minimum and 200-250 if you wanted a little extra power. Of course you could always go bigger but that’s only if you are looking for speed as well. As a matter of fact the last 2 boat shows I went to there were a couple of boats similar to this one and one was utilizing twin 250hp Yamahas and the other had twin 400hp Mercury engines. With that said i figured twin 150’s if you went looking for speed. With too little power you’d have a hard time getting on plane. Since it’s a custom built boat there will be no hull rating tag.
Do you hear the starter solenoid click when you turn the key to start? If not, it might be the "man over board" kill switch or the gear is not actually in neutral. I have Suzuki 115hp motor and if I have it on gear or the kill switch is not engaged, the starter solenoid doesn't click.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Suzuki's infamous white wire. You need to get that wire reconnected to a constant 12 volts. Just because you hooked it up to 12 V and it didn't start, doesn't mean you don't need it to start; you could be dealing with multiple issues. I've seen that wire disconnected result in a dead key turn like you're getting. And reconnecting it fixed the issue. Moreover, even when you get it started, if power to the ECM drops below 12 volts, it will start throwing random phantom sensor faults. So get that white wire connected directly to your starter battery before you troubleshoot anything else. Next, check your MOB switch (man over board). It's a likely culprit and easy to eliminate as a problem. With those two eliminated, triple check every connection at the motor. Then try hot wiring the starter. If it turns over, then start working your way back from the motor to the key switch. Your problem will be somewhere in between. I'm sure you'll figure it out without having to throw in the towel and take it to a dealer. Best of luck to you.
This guy fucks
The kill switch could be bad or wired incorrectly, sounds like and electrical issue for sure...
@@Kyhamilfor sure seems like a kill switch issue of some sort incorrectly wired or faulty switch seen it loads of times
check the neutral switch under the motor hood where the shift cables attach and make sure cables are adjusted properly so the neutral safety switch will allow power to the starter
THIS!
@@hankoskyhad a faulty switch once blocking power full power as gear was not detected, so can fail in both modes. PITA to figure out until looking with diagnose tool.
Neutral safety is under the intake plenum. Your helm control could be in neutral but if your cable isn’t adjusted right. The switch won’t be engaged.
I really love all of your videos. I wish you would do a small houseboat one day. That would be so cool on the lakes.
I believe it was a Suzuki, but we had a motor stop working when we were on vacation and we found an inline 30amp fuse in the motor that even the marina where it was purchased their mechanic didn't know about. It was on the top port side of the motor. Knowing today's technology, I bet the motor's ECU probably needs to be downloaded after install. Anything to get more money out of you! Good luck! The boat is looking real nice!
Some engines have a normally open kill switch and others have a normally closed kill switch. Try pulling out the kill switch fob and see if it turns over. If so, then you know you have the switch backwards.
There’s a fuse box on the front of the motor, near to harness plug. It comes with a spare fuse. I bet that’s what it is. I’m a boat dealer, used to carry Suzuki. You don’t need to plug it to the computer for first start up. It’s not a verado 😆
I caught that dig at B is for Build and the suggestion to make sure you use marine wiring NOT jumper cables. Too funny, and accurate.
WhAT?!?!? I would never…
@@ultimaterebuilds7127 lolz! Yea, the second you started talking about it, I knew...
And the proper hose clamps
Isolate the issue. Run a jump box to the starter on the engine to see if it will start. That will help you figure out if it is a wiring issue or an engine issue.
That's one of the first things I would've tried. See if the starter engages to turn the motor over
On the motor make sure its in neutral to match the throttle
@@coreydoyal7560he did, the prop was spinning freely he said which wouldn't happen in gear.
Zach you killed it on the Suzuki buddy! Love seeing the pontoon build back! 🤙
I hope you don’t mind the recommendation. For the center console, can I suggest weather stripping under the 2x4? 2 strips of simple peel and stick, 1 toward the inner and 1 toward the exterior. That way you have a strip on both sides of the screws. When water is on the deck it won’t get into the center console, but also if water is in the center console it, can’t get to the screw holes and wear out the plywood decking over time, you can still put a drain hole in the interior of the console, in case water does somehow get in there. I did something similar to this when I built an out door kitchen on concrete. I’d highly recommend it, cost less than $20 bucks and allows you to remove the console and not worry about silicone or whatever else you might have planned to use.
I thought the same thing when I saw daylight under the center console!
26:48 looks like a field full of ghosts behind you. 😂
LOWER UNIT/CRANKCASE OIL!!!! did you add any? Check it? Pointless to get her running just to destroy the lower unit.
This.
An idea for the console. Since it is pretty deep… make the bar top hinged at the front. Then if you need to get deep in there it is much more accessible.
And add some gas struts to help lift and hold it up...
Excited to see you get it running.. keep it up!
Always start with the basics.
Invest in good test tools.
Keep up the great works and content.
My son and I cant wait to see the next episode!
2 vote for throttle and shift cables. Push on the button on the side of the stick to force it into neutral and turn the key.
Your doing a great job , i hate somebody who has nothing better to do with there lives except hide behind there own shadow.
To all negative comments.
As many have already said, run a jump box directly to your starter then work your way out from there. In my mind that white wire needs to be connected to a live source and the MOB switch hotwired or jumped to rule it out also. Other than that great job.
I am looking forward to see the total cost breakdown.
Really courious!
Love this series, my favorite of yours so far!
Man Vevor brands EVERYTHING now days.... crazy
it didnt turn the engine enough!!!!
You need to be shopping around for a gas powered forklift or an older skid steer that need fixing up . I saw where this young man found a broken commercial generator that has a Isuzu diesel engine he bought for $500 to put in his used blown engine skid steer . That way you could use it unload heavy items and make some extra cash with it also if you wanted . I think the older ones with wheels are alot healer than the ones w/ tracks which you wouldn’t necessarily need..
I say it is the white wire and the neutral switch! Also like it was said before make sure you have good voltage on the battery
We really should connect and chat. I built a 33’ by 10’ of this platform and can be a lot of help.
I can’t be too much help on Suzuki because I put a 300HP Yamaha on mine. I’ve got almost 1,000 miles on it and over 70 hours on the motor in the past month. Taken those pontoons over some real nasty waves on the lake too and they really hold up and make for a smooth ride. Usually cruise around 20MPH but have gotten it almost to 30MPH
I ended up raising my motor at the 20 hour service because it was dragging a little water even though I matched the anti cavitation plate with the bottom of the pontoon. I also have a 550lb motor but the boat is over 33’ long. I think all around even with your setup you will also notice water comes up higher above the bottom of the pontoon before it gets to the lower unit. Partly because the motor pod is over a couple feet long and sits higher. You definitely have good clearance to trim your motor with the hydraulic steering but I also notice you are starting at the bottom mounting hole so you can’t get your anti cavitation plate any higher from there. I’ve looked into a jack plate myself so that might be a suggestion if you have issues. We have the same exact motor pod/mount too.
I’ve really put this platform to the test already even though you started your build first so we should definitely get in touch.
Mike at pontoon wholesalers has my number so feel free to let him know I said to give it to you
New Yamaha and mercury motors have to be hooked up with a computer and programmed after installing to work.
Good luck and keep em coming
I would check to see if the neutral safety switch is connected properly. On most wire harnesses its 2 separate wires a yellow and brown wire. They are usually bullet connectors and plug directly into matching wires that go into the throttle at the helm. You'll have 2 sets of wires coming from the throttle your trim wires which usually connect closer to where the binnacle mounts and neutral safety switch wires which usually come out near the shift cables.
One thing that stands out to me in this video is the water separator bowl on the fuel filter. I don't think the seal on the drain valve is rated for gasoline/ethanol. I've found that they leak after a very short amount of time.
Make sure your key switch is wired correctly. Might need a jumper on it. Plug the wiring with a fuse to jump it at the motor. 25 or 30 amp. Double check your tilt switch / make sure the wires are not crossed And make sure you have a good ground, I have seen powder coat make them fail hope the info helps.
Check that the kill switch is actually getting continuity across the terminals. But mostly, check the neutral safety switch on the engine.
Neutral safety switch and/or lanyard switch could be opposite states. One may require NC but your switch is NO or vice versa. I know BIFB had the same issue with his engine.
Suggest you have two batteries on board, one for motor, one for lights when you anchor out. We used 2 deep cycle batteries on my 32 foot cruiser.
You try a multimeter at the motor starter? To see if the signal is being sent to the motor starter? Check the fuses in the motor itself?
Very nice boat.
I don't know how chassis grounding works for boats but maybe that's what the white wire is meant for. Also the extra long battery cables might be causing a voltage issue. Just spit balling though. Grab a multi meter and trace the battery voltage point by point. Isolate the fault by ruling things out one by one.Good luck.
The sole purpose of that white wire is to provide a constant 12 volts to the engine control module. So it should be hooked directly up to a battery. It's definitely not a ground.
Probably has to be hooked up with a computer. For safety and security
Is the man-overboard lanyard kill switch hooked up properly?
Jump the starter from a battery to see if it's a wiring issue, or if the starter is bad.
Nice work, Zach, as always.
What is that plantation by the side of your exterior garage? It's a nice view!
Michael @Budget Buildz (UA-cam channel) was a boat mechanic before he started his channel-- maybe you could collaborate on this? He hails from South Carolina… not crazy far away? Just thinking out loud. Love your channel… enjoyed it since the first VW mini bike build.
There are two Wires to be connected to the switch inside the throttle handle. If you don’t have the switch just connect them together. Look at you wirediagramm in the usermanual
Do yourself a huge favor. Get a wiring diagram for a Suzuki with the same engine. Then you can trace the issue using a multimeter. Clearly no power is getting to the solenoid for the starter. Find the color of that wire and start tracing it backwards if you cannot find a wiring diagram. Your ground and power goes directly from the battery to the motor using those new heavy cables, so that aspect should be good. Keep up the good work, you will find the issue.
Okay thanks for responding,
Lets goooo bro finally uploading
Love your content!
He's been doin car rebuilding
@@dustinmittel348I know I just am really interested in his boating rebuilds
There should be a fuse on the outboard itself
I've had the same thing happen to me before and it was that fuse
My guess is the shift cable needs to be adjusted. While the sifter itself is in neutral the motor is not. That’s where the safety switch comes in. It won’t throw an error tone because the motor itself is not in neutral.
Awesome and outstanding
Make sure the battery is charged, brand new batteries are not usually fully charged. Don't forget your zinc!
low oil switch...is there a low oil switch for lower unit oil...did you put lower unit oil in it too
It’s coming along really nice. Can’t wait to see the fencing. Quick question I like where you are installing the battery but do you think you should have a better access to the battery? Just seems like when the table top is on that it would be hard to get all the way in there and pull the battery.
No there’s still a good bit of room in there. At least for me.
Do you have a ground to the motor and switches?
Grab a multi/volt meter and see if you are getting the turn on signal to the starter relay when turning the key.
That motor doesn't work like that. With a conventional setup, turning the key powers the relay, which powers the starter. But with this motor turning the key switch powers the EMC, which then powers the starter relay, which then powers the starter. And you have to have that white wire connected to 12v for all of that to work.
Sounds like neutral safety switch
Problems with the neutral safety switch will usually throw an audible fault.
My guess is the shift cable needs to be adjusted. While the sifter itself is in neutral the motor is not. That’s where the safety switch comes in. It won’t throw an error tone because the motor itself is not in neutral.
Have you checked to see if power is leaving the switch heading to the starter? If It is then check to see if power is making it to the start. 🤘🏼
Last suzuki I bought new had issues. Sold that rig And bought a yamaha for the new one. been perfect for 5 years.
I purchased and installed twin 2023 Suzuki 115's with digital controls and guages. Once installed I had to take the boat in to get the software loaded and the warranty activated. Mine did the same turn the key on but nothing happens. Normal
Are rthey e you getting power at other starter? Starla there and work your way back to the switch.
Your bit dull truck looks like in urgent need of a Baja Califórnia paint job
could there be an alarm system on that engine so you have to switch off. Did you get an extra key? which looks like a garage opener.
Turn key while shifting gear to find neutral. You may have neutral misadjusted.
I did try that but probably should try it again
White wire direct to the battery
Correct!
Sketchy AF getting it off the truck but it worked. Lol.
lol. I was saying, if only he had a cherry picker to get it out of the truck. Then viola! A cherry picker appears. After he gets it out of the truck. :)
Looking to do a similar build but on salt water bays with 27inch vs 25inch toons. I'm thinking it will help with the chip a bit. I've been told I might have to use a 30 inch shaft with the 27in wide toons. However, looking at you video you used the bottom bolt holes on the engine. Do you think if I used the top holes that would be enough for a 27in toon?
check the neutral safety switch on the engine.
Plastic pontoons?! Whoa man ballsy.
Possibly it has a water sensor, if it’s not detecting water in the cooling inlet, it may not start. Not sure what possible sensors these things are running now
Don’t know if you figured it out, but does the starter solenoid need to be grounded? Was building a composite airplane and had a similar issue and found the solenoid’s house needed to be grounded to the airframe. Other than that I’m guessing you pulled the lanyard to double check it wouldn’t start pulled?
Wouldn’t you void warranty if not fitted by dealer?
Go a 4 blade aluminum prop either 15 to 17 degree will be about perfect
@ 5 minutes: that smile
Contact Team Marine Service! They have a great UA-cam channel and he is a Suzuki dealer. He helps people and maybe you can do a collaboration! Nice motor!
I worked at a powersports dealer and we had some suzuki motorcyles that needed the ecu to be unlocked(transport lock), not sure if this motor requires the same?
Sounds silly, but I bought a boat once for cheap because the guy could not get it to do anything. After messing with it, I found that the Kill switch was wired backwards. I swapped the wires and it fired up immediately. lol. Worth a try I suppose.
Is the Cranking amperage of the battery strong enough for the motor? Like maybe you have 550 but the motor needs 800 cca
I feel like I could build a pontoon boat now
Get solar panels for the pontoons that way don't need a battery for them
It would be helpful to get yourself a voltmeter and a wiring diagram. Check each point with a voltmeter to see where your power is stopping at.
I suggest something very simple, kill switch. That has given me issues before. Make sure it’s working,
R is for rebuild?
90hp with a loaded pontoon you'll be lucky to hit 18mph.
I did think the same... Hope he doesn't regret putting a 90 on it .. with three pontoons I would of gone with 150 on it. Allot of drag on a small motor ..
It's a party boat... with a plastic hull, not sure if you would want to try to race with it. 40 hp is typically standard on a budget pontoon or a fishing buggy, just enough to get off the dock and fight a decent head wind. 90 hp is way plenty for sightseeing or cruising to the fishing spot.
@@JP-jq1qx every boat is a party boat in my opinion
What front bumper is on that green TJ?
Hooke off-road
Is there a security code like a Jetski?
Can this build handle a 150 hp motor? Curious to see how 90 HP pushes this.
Jump the starter, see if that works. 😎
Bypass everything in the console. See if it starts. Then work your way back one connection at a time.
You showed you confirmed the control was in neutral did you confirm the motor is in neutral that the the linkage is correct?
I had one contact in my Yamaha’s 12 pin connector and didn’t notice it was bent use a light and examine the connector
Do you have gas in it?
The white wire is called sub harness and I’m pretty sure that motor does not need it , new motors always come with prop hardware mounted at least 100 Suzukis all hp range, somebody opened box and took, also should have gotten primer bulb and fuel line, I think watching your vid I think you should check to make sure u actually are connecting control box neutral wire to correct harness wires is my guess 20 years boat mechanic honest guess
$110 dollars a horsepower is nuts for an outbound motor 😳
But as they say
B-break
O-out
A-another
T-thousand
Or 10 😂
Whats wrong with it,... "aint got no gas in it"
4:56 no scratching
Love the channel. Motor is electric and Engine is combustion . Sorry just my OCD. Had the same engine in a 115 on my Manitou. Great engine and very quiet. Also I am in love with the lighted tubes. At 20hrs the oil light will start blinking and beeping. Will freak you out. Just computer telling you that it is time to do your first oil change.
I have always heard them called outboard motors, nobody ever says outboard engines
what are those thing behind the property?.
Trees. Probably orange trees.
Or headstones. lol
Trees
Nothing 27:13 more than baby orange trees. That's way he is in the Sunshine State. Hot but cool place hehehe
Maybe you have to program the computer.
You can call a mobile mechanic to stop by. Gotta be neutral safety switch
90hp seems like it’s a bit underpowered for a boat that size.
Outboard motors are crazy expensive the larger they get. What HP would you suggest and why? have you checked the rating on the hull that he is using? Elaborate.
@@JP-jq1qx Based on what I’ve seen other boats of similar size utilize I would have thought 150 hp at minimum and 200-250 if you wanted a little extra power. Of course you could always go bigger but that’s only if you are looking for speed as well. As a matter of fact the last 2 boat shows I went to there were a couple of boats similar to this one and one was utilizing twin 250hp Yamahas and the other had twin 400hp Mercury engines. With that said i figured twin 150’s if you went looking for speed. With too little power you’d have a hard time getting on plane.
Since it’s a custom built boat there will be no hull rating tag.
reach out to Born Again Boating, he has a excellent U tube channel n he's in Florida
With the extension of the battery wires you might not be getting enough voltage
Do you hear the starter solenoid click when you turn the key to start? If not, it might be the "man over board" kill switch or the gear is not actually in neutral. I have Suzuki 115hp motor and if I have it on gear or the kill switch is not engaged, the starter solenoid doesn't click.
Just jump the starter solenoid. See if it runs.