I’ve been buying Jl audio forever and they have always proven to hold up and always have a cleaner sound then any other sub on the market. My previous set up was the jl audio w7 13.5 and it would cross your eyes it beat so hard. You seem like a high end speaker hater.
@@slickrick2 I'm a fan of value. Brand makes no difference to me. You can often find great value in startup brands like Dark Audio, Audio Legion, Gravity and others that just import.
@@kapokidkidkapo719 That's fine, but what I want to inspire is for you to do your research on these products and see what you're paying for. Once you can compare apples to apples, you can then decide if the fancier apple, (that you're going to turn into a turd), is worth the extra money so you can impress people that are shitheads since no women even know what fancy audio is.
JL is not garbage though. I agree about it being proprietary. 12w6 hits hard in a well built enclosure. People have lost touch about power. 600 watts is still a lot of power. The 80s and 90s with 100-500 watts in mini truscks where beating down the blocks. They and Kicker are the Godfathers.
@@johnoates3326no absolutely not most subs will sound good but few sound great and a lot of them sound really bad (especially depending on your use-case).
@milchpulverkakao4917 lmao 🤣 whatever u have to tell yourself to sleep good at night bro good for u..I'm sorry if u want JL to be your baby daddy🤣🤣🤣🤣Whatever floats your boat or sinks your ship🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@johnoates3326 I am not talking about jl in particular and I wouldn’t buy any of there products new because I think they are overpriced, but i happen to own a 13w7 that I got used for a very good price. I also own a dd 608 and I listen to them side by side in a sealed box any the Jl sound super clean and has a really fast response while with the dd you can hear motor noise and it also sounds sloppier even though it‘s smaller
I only owned 2 w3 subs in high school. The subs sounded so clear and hit hard. Not overkill or anything but hit awesome that it didn’t drown out the music. I’ve always wanted w6’s but not sure what else to try
JL subs are way overpriced. Take any model and compare it spec for spec to numerous alternatives at a much better price point. That is exactly what I did for my final sub purchases.
@@RobotUnderground Hate to say it, you don't know what you are talking about in some aspects of of subwoofer design and are sounding like a dumbass. The "flimsy suspension", the plastic voice coil, and polypropolyn cone is to lower weight, and allow for easier cone movement. The faster the sub can move, with the lower power, the harder it will hit. You are saying that aluminum cone is superior and that is a fallocy. Almost all high end brands of speakers (home or car), use polypropolyn, kevlar, and some moving now to carbon fiber for lighter weight. They allow the speaker to move easier during transients across the audible spectrum, making them flatter, cleaner, and more accurately reflects the source material. Bigger, heavier, and more robust don't always mean better. Not everyone wants a "boomy", subwoofer, a lot of us want it to hit harder, and faster. That is the same reason a 1000watt NXP amplifier sounded like garbage next to my Sony Mobile ES. The Sony is capable of controlling the woofer better, because it's dampning factor is 10x better, with half the power. You are missing vital key ingredients to peoples flavor. Just because you like boomy, doesn't mean others will.
@@WXSTANG lol. Sounds like you don't know how to design or manufacture subwoofers. Doped paper is the best. I'm not a fan of exotics like aluminum or aramid fibers but they're better than poly. You're welcome to show me in a video of course. Poly yields the highest profit margin because it's simply good enough and super cheap to make. It's a throw away product. Your opinion is your opinion though and you don't have to watch these videos.
I know im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account?? I somehow lost the password. I love any help you can offer me.
@Branson Kingston thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hey brotha. Just wanted to say I really enjoy your channel. You are straight up and absolutely no bullshit comes out of your mouth. You call it how it is and put all these manufacturers on blast for the crap they pull which I really appreciate. I'd love for you to go through a couple subs I have and out your own twist on what I got.
Dont get me wrong, I love your videos but you do seem pretty salty with JL protecting their products from companies similar to yours. Read my previous comment where I explain a bit more of my opinion. Oh another thing to man, I'm Mexican and I don't see where it's necessary to make the comment of Mexicans and Cubans building these products in a bad way? American products fail just the same. There are many products that are made out of the US, no one complains when they are buying them at a fraction of the price, yet when they break that's the first comment they make. I feel like you have alot of knowledge, you're very talented, and you build amazing products. So with that being said, let your products sell themselves and don't hook people into buying your products by kicking other brands names around in the dirt. You have me sold 100% in your products, which I would love to try out the next time I build a loud SPL system, stay focused on your products and explain the failure of the product your working on and no more.
Hi, very informative. Do the new pole design in the W7 perform some shorting ring function? One aspect of the soft spider and surround of the JL is the subjectively different SQ in the bass detail, perhaps at lower volumes. Some of the stiffer suspension drivers tend to need a lot more power to 'wake up' and don't sound as good at lower levels? Do you know what could be the reason for this?
On paper, the soft suspension gives the numbers that people think they want, so it has a bit to do with marketing. The other thing is that it makes it VERY easy to kill them... And of course, that's not covered under any warranty.
The problem is that it's proprietary. No parts. I solved this by using a really long 2 5/8" coil and a quad stack motor. Now I have better performance, powerhanding and that tight punchy bass with a small Vas all for just $250 shipped in a 12". Lots of stroke and low Fs, I give you The Vato Xtreme. ua-cam.com/video/ZZvlExahx-c/v-deo.html
Thank you for opening my eyes to JL. I love the subs but didn't realize how proprietary and anti-right-to-repair they are. I recently bought a non-working 12W6V2D4 thinking that I could repair it. Two attempts later (coils, spiders, and surrounds) and I still can't get the coil completely centered. The biggest pain was figuring out what to do about the plastic ring around the voice coil. I ended up 3d printing a new one that is larger diameter with a wider channel in order to fit the wires better. I'm never buying another (new) JL again.
@@RobotUnderground The guy had 2 of them and said they were both blown. They metered good, but one had a dragging coil. I offered $150 for both of them, knowing that one of them worked perfectly.
Well, that means you need 5.7cf to reach the Fs which is 20Hz. If you don't need to get to 20Hz, you can use a smaller box. With the Qts being in the middle, you can either go sealed or ported. If you run these specs through a box program like BlauBox, you'll see a nice boost around 30-35Hz when you tune the box to that frequency.
Really glad I found your channel bro, haven’t seen another that goes in depth like this and says it how it is. Really dig the honesty most of all, but I do admit I am a sucker for pretty stuff, lol. Maybe some of the reason I prefer Alpine, although I think the last gen Type R/X looked way better then the current :/ and why do away with the 15” ...lame move imo
Thank god i saw this video.. I almost hit the trigger for dual 12w7.. Seams to be shitty quality subs, how about rockford fosgate T2S2-13? Or kicker l7s? Better or worse?
Not hate this way bud. I’ve never owned any other car sub… SVS home audio. My current is dual 12w7 in a ported tuned at 31hz. What would your recommendation be? Jus as good SQ/SPL in the same. Price or cheaper
I would sell those before they wear out and just replace with something else text me direct and I can make some recommendations even if I don't have them myself 602-312-6504
Say what you will about them, JL makes the W7 and that is on of the best sounding subs in the world. Are they worth the price they ask, hell no, but there's not many other alternatives that can compete with them sonically. They're extremely accurate, have a dead flat response, have incredible detail, the list goes on. If you wanna go by wattage and volume, yeah fine there's plenty that outshine it. That's not how everyone compares speakers, though. What good is loud bass if it sounds like shit?
@@RobotUnderground higher wattage ≠ better, what good is 1k watts if most of it is getting lost and not being turned into sound? Wattage is the worst thing to go by to determine what’s better or worse, and what about efficiency? Doesn’t that matter? Moving mass? Cone stiffness? Neodymium vs ferrite magnets? Literally every part of a speaker determines how it’s gonna sound, judging them by how big they are or how much power they can handle is just a pissing match, doesn’t mean anything in the world of sound quality.
@@vb7200 You do realize that I've spent YEARS studying this right? THOUSANDS of builds with testing. Wattage numbers you'll realize is all about abuse. The problem is that if you make it too much of a floppy butthole like JL, then people kill them.
@@RobotUnderground 9 times out of 10 a speaker is blown because of distortion, not excessive wattage. A lot of people installing these things DIY or even having a shop do it have no concept of what that is. The subs get incredibly bad source signals pumped through them and they cook. I’ve seen JL woofers in proper well sorted systems last decades, and I’ve seen them last months in cobbed systems.
I think they’re going after people who like SQ stuff I don’t think they’re made four basing hard/Just like Snap on tools they are a better tool, but are they that much better?❤
@@RobotUnderground I just want one sub, likely a 12 since that’s all I ever had. It’s going to be for a semi truck so space isn’t necessarily a deal breaker, I can put the sub on the top bunk. I don’t want massive bass that hits so hard I can’t listen to music after 3/4 hours. I want something to give me that deep rumble. I’d like to keep it below 1000-1200. Upgrading the head unit may also be an option since the one I have kinda sucks
So can you rebuild 13w7 because I have 2 there that have collected dust in my shed and I would ONLY pay to rebuild it stronger than before because I paid way too much the first time lol 🤦♂️..
The W6v3? Yes, by leaps and bounds. JL is just not a good value for the money you're spending. Just like if you only need to get from here to there, it's best not to buy a BMW or Lambo
Patrick, I have a JL 12w6v3 that I broke the "cone" (glorified duat cap) and effed up the vc on. JL wants 400 PLUS shipping to recone.. ummm...yeah, NO
The most thrilling way to get really affordable subwoofer motors is by dumpster diving behind an audio company or from a shop. You can also just advertise locally on OfferUp or Craigslist that you buy dead subwoofers.
The most thrilling way to get really affordable subwoofer motors is by dumpster diving behind an audio company or from a shop. You can also just advertise locally on OfferUp or Craigslist that you buy dead subwoofers.
I have an Alpine R12. I heard a scratching sound and then the sub sounded terrible. Checked ohms and were fine. Took it apart and only saw a tiny area where there was a rub. What could cause that?
Sounds like some debris. Here in Arizona we get a lot of sand / dirt and rocks in there. Could have been a piece of epoxy that fell off or glue. Just recone and should be fine.
@@RobotUnderground Thanks for the advice. I live in south Florida so sand is plentiful. Mix it with hurricanes and tropical storms and top it off with Sharan dust clouds and I can see this is a definite possibility. (Also, one hell of an unwanted instant skin exfoliation if you aren't careful) Thanks again. Live the videos!
Just found your channel and subscribed bc im enjoying the woofer content. When comparing the MOFO motor to the W6 you state bigger is better essentially? I get the MOFO will handle more RMS power but i was under the impression motor size had little to do with performance and whats is more important is BL (with regard to working with the soft parts mms) and magnet grade? I have owned JL woofers many years ago and did like the sound quality and get they are considered overpriced compared to the competitors. I also hear good things about PA MOFO and gothic subs offering good bang for the buck so i get the argument of value although never owned either. Im not for or against either brand and personally buy for performance/value and currently run an NEP 12”. Im no expert and not trying to stir the pot just trying to learn if you could go into a little more detail about your comparison of the 2.
Let's say a JL W3 with 6 layer coil has a BL factor of 24. Sure that's really good but to what point? The magnet and coil size have lots to do with getting rid of the heat. Excursion / displacement is also a factor. That's when you can compare total SPL to Dollars and find the value of your subwoofer. That's just one way to find a value.
@@kapokidkidkapo719 In my opinion, NO JL PRODUCTS are magic or worth the premium you'll pay. That's simply my honest opinion, based on performance / price = value.
It's not just the size of the magnet it's the gap tolerance the top plate the quality of the iron used jl klippel tests all there subs not a jl fan but just tossing random coils in chunks of ferrite and iron doesn't make a good sub I take it most of your customers run high tuned ported one note wonders
Ok ok.... I tried to stay away from making a comment here cuz I love the knowledge u give out in ur videos but, I do feel that you are pretty negative with JL. I have had many sound systems from cheap to high end to being on a budget and yes all of these newer brands like skar and CT sounds and so on but everyone and their momma knows that you cannnnooottt beat JL in how clean, crisp and clear their products sound. They hit every note and frequency very good, yes they are pricey, but you pay for quality. I think you dislike them because they have all of their technology pattenned and you as a builder have to deal with that. However they have been in the game a long time which they are constantly updating their products unlike these cheaper sub companies which are awesome but don't match to the sound quality. I think the reason why you constantly are having to rebuild those JL subs is because people that buy them fall in love with the sound and end up wanting more out of them and that's why they blow. Yes those other companies are amazing at producing loud and breath taking bass but they lack in quality as far as sound goes. Just like kicker, they make so much bass for so little power and the moment you push them past that point they blow. You can't design a sub to be efficient and produce glass breaking bass However I think JL and kicker have been able to design a product that gets closer to that than any other brands. And yes JL rubber surround does suck, but come on man.... give credit where credit is due. And if there were so many companies trying to copy your amazing product that you spent so much money engineering..... wouldn't you want to protect it from others too???
Their stuff is fine. I don't have a problem with the performance. I have a problem with their value. They are overpriced and try to come up with ways to gouge their ignorant clients / fans out of even more money when they kill the product or it wears out. Not a fan of that. At those prices, you can buy 4-5 replacements out of pocket or just buy something better, of higher performance for the same money. For example, you can get a 12W7 for $1399.99 plus tax direct from JL Audio.... Or you can get a SoundQubed HDX 12" D1, 5kw amp run at half power, DIY enclosure and 0ga power wire kit for just $1036! That's just SoundQubed which I think is STILL OVERPRICED. Imagine if you can still get more performance / value from brands like Soundstream / PPI / Power Acoustik, Skar, American Bass, FU Audio and more! JL is NOT MAGIC! They don't make anything more special than anyone else. In fact, their subs are made of cheap plastic instead of more durable aluminum and paper so they can make even more profit. Same with cars. I'll take Toyota over BMW or Mercedes any day. I have the confidence and self awareness that I don't need status or to try and impress people that are superficial in the first place. It's always about THE MUSIC, not the status. Would you pay more for a Yeezy flac player or the same music on a $10 or even $20 CD? Status is what leads you by the nose, only to ask you to pay more to cut it off to spite your face. If you love JL, you love status. Go ahead and buy BMW and a gold toilet. Let everyone know how insecure you are about your penis size.
Is anyone familiar with the Older Precision Power Power Class PC. 124 ? I just got a pair cheap. The one with the heat sink thing on the cone ! It has a relatively large magnet But are they any good?
I had a JL W4 d4 in an omni back in the day with a Legacy LA320 2 channel, and I actually ripped the spider off the basket. JL dealer looked at my amp n said no effin way!!! Immediately said that they would need one of their techs to inspect my install. They pulled in their shop n said all good! They pulled my old woofer out and put a new one in. Then of course they did a sound check and they couldn't believe how much the woofer was moving off that Legacy amp! Only woofer I ever had to use the warranty on. Got Rockford Fosgate Punch somethings after that then some IDQ 12s.. I abused the hell out of all those never had a problem. JL honestly looked like a cheap realistic replacement woofer for RadioShack, sounded pretty decent for what it was. Not worth the $$$$ tho.
I want to hit the lowest lows with NO ports. I am looking at Chinese 24" 8 ohm subwoofers (I also like good speaker control) that have "2000 watts RMS." I am a fan of large speaker cone area in lieu of having a 2" subwoofer with 6 feet of excursion. What do you recommend?
Yeah I was foolish once and left JL but I'm back runnimg all JL and even their amps now too. JL just sounds better. I guess I have money to burn. I love the w6s and w7s. The C7 line is amazing. The Vxi amps, Hd, XD and RD amps are all great amps. Personally I like beautiful custom builds with sound quality which takes a lot of money to build. I guess you just like moving air. I miss when everyone took pride in their builds but now I go to shows and it's just trash cans rattling. Probably why JL pulled out because everyone looks for the biggest magnet but has know clue how efficient JL subs are. By the way what's the name of your subwoofers?
This is a biased review of him admitting he's going to copy jl designs to "make them better" by China. Copyright infringement plus outsourcing....bet you voted for Biden as well?
@@RobotUnderground your reply is invalid. After watching the vid, I have no interest in your response. Also have no interest in a dick measuring contest, so good day sir.
NGL, I currently run a 10w7 with a ported box I built according to JL specs. Best sounding sub I have owned. Only sub that rivals it is my Elemental Designs A12 with a flat "cone". I also have a 12w7 but it is in a sealed box. So it does not move as freely as the 10w7. Edit: BTW, I still own a pair of 12" Hard Times subs I got from your eBay days. Mint condition. I bust them out every so often and pound on them and they do not disappoint!
You should do a demo with Dead Game 12" hurricane 1500rms 55# sub they have the clear and most punch sound i have heard they are pricey but worth it like your channel keep the video's coming o yeah there 3" vc and 4ohm wired down to 1 i believe it is there beast
@@lawrenceyoung9669 You are correct. I sell a quad stack for the same price and 3yr warranty AND made right here in Arizona, custom for you. Lots of colors to choose from. I will even make it blank with no badge so you can flip it to your JL friends for $500 each while it out performs their 12W7 that they paid $900-1200 for.
@@RobotUnderground well I bought 2 of them, lol…awesome sealed birch wood box being built with an ArcAudio x2 1100.1 amp…in my small Toyota Access cab I think that should be banging pretty good…but I definitely want some good sound as well…time will tell. 😎 Have you heard the Audiofrog GB12 subs before?
That sub isn't worth nowhere near $700+ no way in hell would I pay $700+ for a 600 watt woofer 😂😂😂.. do you know why they sale those for that insane price??? That's getting into sundown Z series prices and the sundown Z series would absolutely murder that woofer. And with that price you could buy two Skar VXf 12"s and 15"s for around that price... I mean that's crazy expensive even cost more than the HCCA 12 😂
Ya JL h as always been overpriced. I had a w6v2. Cheap plastic cone. Single junk spider. Most likely kapton former which isn’t that great. I bought it for $15 and sold it for a lot more.
A JL sub (10w3) is the only sub I've ever had that failed on me. The tinsel lead snapped. I think it could have been an easy fix but I just wanted to try something else. I've tried JL 10w3, Fosgate P310, Alpine S10, Sundown E10, Alpine R10, Alpine S10 (again) in that order. The JL was the best sounding by a distance. Alpine S10 next for overall sound quality and the rest were just good on SPL nothing special. All powered around 500-1000 watts rms depending on the setup so maybe they are worth the money. I just wouldn't get that 10w3 again until they change how they attach the tinsel leads because I like overpowering my subs. I wanted to get the next step up a 10w6 but for that price forget it and then what if I blow it again? The others I listed can take a beating (Alpine R10 hands down winner). I don't want a fragile sub.
Dumbest fucking comment I’ve seen… “I want to try the w6 rated for 600 rms but I love to overpower my subs, what if I blow it again?”… try giving it the power it’s rated for dumbass, had the JL HO112-W6v3 on their XD600/1v2 for 6 years now and the thing knocks hard af without an issue! How dumb would I look if I even get a a sundown X12 rated for 1500 watts rms and put 3k watts rms on it and it blew and then I sit there and think… “but why?… must be crap quality I guess”. Fucking match an amp the sub is rated for! Easy as that smh.
@@dopeimean23 I've tried many different subs on the same amp. Some can handle more than rated and some can't. From my last JL experience, they aren't too good with more than rated but a Sundown or Rockford can handle more than rated. Why does this bother your stupidass so much?
@@jimjones3287 Not at all, your comments just makes shit worth of sense, you literally stated that you like to overpower a sub completly disregarding the rating the actual fucking creator has given it saying don't exceed this much rms as it won't hold up. Then you proceed to dog shit on the brand/sub because of your own moronic user error stating it blew. Please explain to me how your mindset makes any logical sense whatsoever? ANY sub you buy, even comp level subs that cost THOUSANDS will blow if you're constantly overpowering it aka clipping the shit out of it. Your comment is just pointless and makes no logical sense.
Why do people buy this cheap JL when they can get a better commercial sub from American Bass or better yet a custom from Patrick. 18in AB Godfather $400. 400oz 4in coil. Come on guys. B2 audio has huge motors for cheap
I enjoy how you talk crap about JL, easily one of the most prestigious audio company. Then you talk about your plans to steal there technology to put into your own line. Value is second to performance.
Is there a question in there? I think the point of the video is that JL doesn't do anything special. If they did other companies would follow suit but they don't. Mostly because it's cheaper to do the same job another way. Which is what Microsoft and the PC as well as Android have done versus Apple. Apple doesn't like to admit that it's not as good and it tells its followers that it's magic and they believe it. The same with techroline from Chevron. Or authentic Italian food versus Olive garden. There is more than one way to be and to get a job done.
One of the reasons I want to sell a similar motor is that people like it. And also because JL does not offer it on its own for experiment. Also if you have frames and other parts but you're missing the motor your shit out of luck if you ask JL
If you listened, instead of getting offended, I said they don't provide a good value. Meaning that they cost too much. Please rich person, go buy JL and shut the fuck up.
@@RobotUnderground LoL Easy there sparky! Come up with your own technology instead of ripping on companies that have invested much time & money to try and move the industry forward. JL is pricey. How do you think they come up with their own tech? You're a hack. A thief. Go ahead and delete my posts now so people don't see the douche you are. Are you the new Elemental Designs? LoL
@@RobotUnderground Sorry man but you do sound like a hater... I agree that JL is a overpriced, but their SQ is far superior to any of the other brands you mentioned. You also acted like a 900w sub was better than JL's 600w.... Surely you have to understand the JL builds efficient subs that DON'T REQUIRE ridiculous amounts of power and will sound better at 600w than that 900w sub ever could.... These subs with ridiculously unnecessary watt rating are simply a market scheme for big ego people... "I got 3000 watts"... "I got 5000 watts"... "I GOT 10,000 WATTS"..! and they all sound like sh!t with overwhelming bass... Those are not "musical" systems. Efficient subs and clean power will absolutely KILL at 500 to a 1000 watts in a SQ system... I'm not talking about that stupid SPL sh!t. I had 12w1's and the little Slash 250/1 and people couldn't believe that was all I was running... accused me of having another amp hidden... They are still beatin in my buddy's Tahoe 10 years latter... I don't own JL's now because of the price, but that's no reason to sh!t on them... They haven't stayed in business for 40+ years building a sh!t product... JL is for those that don't mind paying top dollar for superior sound quality.. But I will say my $230. round Kicker Q Class subs are not $400. less in sound quality, in fact I would say they not far at all from JL's. As you would say, the Q Class is a "good value"... Better value than the JL's, IMO.
@@2869may Well that's the same garbage that Apple spews about how their products are better or why they've been in business so long, or are a $T company. There are a lot of stupid people out there that have more money than time. If that's what you picked up in this video, you are one of them.
I’ve been buying Jl audio forever and they have always proven to hold up and always have a cleaner sound then any other sub on the market. My previous set up was the jl audio w7 13.5 and it would cross your eyes it beat so hard. You seem like a high end speaker hater.
I've rebuild and modified dozens of the 13W7's. They're not magic.
They are a higher quality speaker than 99 percent of what’s on the market there is no arguing that. Let me guess your a skar audio fan
@@slickrick2 I'm a fan of value. Brand makes no difference to me. You can often find great value in startup brands like Dark Audio, Audio Legion, Gravity and others that just import.
@@RobotUnderground well you just talked me out of spending money on JL 😂
@@kapokidkidkapo719 That's fine, but what I want to inspire is for you to do your research on these products and see what you're paying for. Once you can compare apples to apples, you can then decide if the fancier apple, (that you're going to turn into a turd), is worth the extra money so you can impress people that are shitheads since no women even know what fancy audio is.
JL is not garbage though. I agree about it being proprietary. 12w6 hits hard in a well built enclosure. People have lost touch about power. 600 watts is still a lot of power. The 80s and 90s with 100-500 watts in mini truscks where beating down the blocks. They and Kicker are the Godfathers.
You are correct. I always imagine trying to unscrew a 100w light bulb. THATS's 100wrms in the palm of your hand.
Very true but also true almost any sub will sound good and hit hard in the proper enclosure
@@johnoates3326no absolutely not most subs will sound good but few sound great and a lot of them sound really bad (especially depending on your use-case).
@milchpulverkakao4917 lmao 🤣 whatever u have to tell yourself to sleep good at night bro good for u..I'm sorry if u want JL to be your baby daddy🤣🤣🤣🤣Whatever floats your boat or sinks your ship🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
@@johnoates3326 I am not talking about jl in particular and I wouldn’t buy any of there products new because I think they are overpriced, but i happen to own a 13w7 that I got used for a very good price. I also own a dd 608 and I listen to them side by side in a sealed box any the Jl sound super clean and has a really fast response while with the dd you can hear motor noise and it also sounds sloppier even though it‘s smaller
I only owned 2 w3 subs in high school. The subs sounded so clear and hit hard. Not overkill or anything but hit awesome that it didn’t drown out the music. I’ve always wanted w6’s but not sure what else to try
JL subs are way overpriced. Take any model and compare it spec for spec to numerous alternatives at a much better price point. That is exactly what I did for my final sub purchases.
Same here I keep going back to w3. 10 and 12 they do sound superb
I bought a wreck 12w6. The leads were fried. Possibly a weak design.
I believe it sound quality/over wage/
JL makes a superior sounding sub imo I’ve heard a little bit of everything and always go back to jl
Good for you.
@@RobotUnderground Hate to say it, you don't know what you are talking about in some aspects of of subwoofer design and are sounding like a dumbass. The "flimsy suspension", the plastic voice coil, and polypropolyn cone is to lower weight, and allow for easier cone movement. The faster the sub can move, with the lower power, the harder it will hit. You are saying that aluminum cone is superior and that is a fallocy. Almost all high end brands of speakers (home or car), use polypropolyn, kevlar, and some moving now to carbon fiber for lighter weight. They allow the speaker to move easier during transients across the audible spectrum, making them flatter, cleaner, and more accurately reflects the source material. Bigger, heavier, and more robust don't always mean better. Not everyone wants a "boomy", subwoofer, a lot of us want it to hit harder, and faster. That is the same reason a 1000watt NXP amplifier sounded like garbage next to my Sony Mobile ES. The Sony is capable of controlling the woofer better, because it's dampning factor is 10x better, with half the power. You are missing vital key ingredients to peoples flavor. Just because you like boomy, doesn't mean others will.
@@WXSTANG lol. Sounds like you don't know how to design or manufacture subwoofers. Doped paper is the best. I'm not a fan of exotics like aluminum or aramid fibers but they're better than poly. You're welcome to show me in a video of course. Poly yields the highest profit margin because it's simply good enough and super cheap to make. It's a throw away product. Your opinion is your opinion though and you don't have to watch these videos.
Just want to reach out and say we're still here. Keep going!
I know im randomly asking but does any of you know of a method to get back into an Instagram account??
I somehow lost the password. I love any help you can offer me.
@Salvatore Dash instablaster ;)
@Branson Kingston thanks for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Branson Kingston It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my account !
@Salvatore Dash No problem =)
Hey brotha. Just wanted to say I really enjoy your channel. You are straight up and absolutely no bullshit comes out of your mouth. You call it how it is and put all these manufacturers on blast for the crap they pull which I really appreciate. I'd love for you to go through a couple subs I have and out your own twist on what I got.
Post the list
@@RobotUnderground I have 2 skar vvx 8s I was curious if u could re work them and get some more power out of them
@@kennymcdonald7653 Sorry Kenny, that's a myth. You'd compromise the subs. They wouldn't play as low if you put a more stiff suspension on them.
Where is your web site to buy stuff from cause the square space on has dead links???
Just text me directly 6023126504
Dont get me wrong, I love your videos but you do seem pretty salty with JL protecting their products from companies similar to yours. Read my previous comment where I explain a bit more of my opinion. Oh another thing to man, I'm Mexican and I don't see where it's necessary to make the comment of Mexicans and Cubans building these products in a bad way? American products fail just the same. There are many products that are made out of the US, no one complains when they are buying them at a fraction of the price, yet when they break that's the first comment they make. I feel like you have alot of knowledge, you're very talented, and you build amazing products. So with that being said, let your products sell themselves and don't hook people into buying your products by kicking other brands names around in the dirt. You have me sold 100% in your products, which I would love to try out the next time I build a loud SPL system, stay focused on your products and explain the failure of the product your working on and no more.
Good ol boy didn’t respond to this one. 😂
I seriously do not see the value at 729, it is way to pricey...you have a lot of better options at that price point..
Like what other?
@@plebegamer824 Everything but JL Audio...
@@justkiddin1980 what about jl audio what brand you think is better then jl
@@plebegamer824 Gladen, Helix, Audio System, ESX, Pioneer, JBL, Steg, Hybrid Audio, Focal, Acoustic Elegance to name a few....
@@justkiddin1980 you think jbl is better than jl audio 😂😂😂😂
Complain about and you named helix that cost alot of money to
Hi, very informative. Do the new pole design in the W7 perform some shorting ring function?
One aspect of the soft spider and surround of the JL is the subjectively different SQ in the bass detail, perhaps at lower volumes. Some of the stiffer suspension drivers tend to need a lot more power to 'wake up' and don't sound as good at lower levels? Do you know what could be the reason for this?
On paper, the soft suspension gives the numbers that people think they want, so it has a bit to do with marketing. The other thing is that it makes it VERY easy to kill them... And of course, that's not covered under any warranty.
Kind of of topic but I use to have an image dynamics idmax back in the day. I really liked the way it sounded. What's your opinion on the new idmax?
The problem is that it's proprietary. No parts. I solved this by using a really long 2 5/8" coil and a quad stack motor. Now I have better performance, powerhanding and that tight punchy bass with a small Vas all for just $250 shipped in a 12". Lots of stroke and low Fs, I give you The Vato Xtreme. ua-cam.com/video/ZZvlExahx-c/v-deo.html
Sooo... what's the best sub you recommend, Sq, versus a sundown.. ?
Let's do this public so maybe people can pick up on why I pick what I pick. Tell me your budget, what amp you're working with and what amp you have.
@@RobotUnderground my budget is 5,000 I have jL w7 12 .. 2 and 1,000 jL audio amp.. and a jl w7 13.5
@@RobotUnderground I wanna buy a sundown 3k amp and some 2 12" sundown subs , box on eBay.. 3 order one, and I have a 300 amp alt/ mechman..
@@chrisnas1483 All in the same system?
@@chrisnas1483 What you have should already be plenty. What series of Sundown are you looking at?
When you drill the holes don't do even or odd numbers . What ever they didn't do and drill them at a angle there's looks to be done straight.
Thank you for opening my eyes to JL. I love the subs but didn't realize how proprietary and anti-right-to-repair they are. I recently bought a non-working 12W6V2D4 thinking that I could repair it. Two attempts later (coils, spiders, and surrounds) and I still can't get the coil completely centered. The biggest pain was figuring out what to do about the plastic ring around the voice coil. I ended up 3d printing a new one that is larger diameter with a wider channel in order to fit the wires better. I'm never buying another (new) JL again.
I'm curious to to how much you paid
@@RobotUnderground The guy had 2 of them and said they were both blown. They metered good, but one had a dragging coil. I offered $150 for both of them, knowing that one of them worked perfectly.
@@kylehuffman9694 Good deal. I got a burned one in yesterday and was going to post it up for $200 shipped.
Fs: 20Hz
Qts: 0.433
Vas: 162 liters
WTF?
How’s that work out?
Well, that means you need 5.7cf to reach the Fs which is 20Hz. If you don't need to get to 20Hz, you can use a smaller box. With the Qts being in the middle, you can either go sealed or ported. If you run these specs through a box program like BlauBox, you'll see a nice boost around 30-35Hz when you tune the box to that frequency.
Can you fix my jl w6v3 12. It needs a re cone.
I only do conversions text me with your name and your shipping address 602-312-6504
@@RobotUnderground texted you I apologize got no response
@@wrenchesandcars5161 Try again, 6023126504 I go through 300-400 texts per day.
What kind of glue does JL use to adhere the top plate to the magnet?
They use an acrylic type that has an activator.
However you can change to a 2 part slow cure type like our Devil's Jizz or even just JB Weld.
Really glad I found your channel bro, haven’t seen another that goes in depth like this and says it how it is. Really dig the honesty most of all, but I do admit I am a sucker for pretty stuff, lol. Maybe some of the reason I prefer Alpine, although I think the last gen Type R/X looked way better then the current :/ and why do away with the 15” ...lame move imo
I appreciate your honesty
@robotunderground My W6 died today, can you improve it?
Nope. The magnet is the magnet. That's why they make the W7 series... and that's why I make the 12W7 for $350 local and $400 shipped.
Thank god i saw this video.. I almost hit the trigger for dual 12w7.. Seams to be shitty quality subs, how about rockford fosgate T2S2-13? Or kicker l7s? Better or worse?
Problems with both of those choices
Text me direct 602-312-6504 with your name and shipping address and we can go over your options.
Let me know what equipment you already have
Not hate this way bud. I’ve never owned any other car sub… SVS home audio. My current is dual 12w7 in a ported tuned at 31hz. What would your recommendation be? Jus as good SQ/SPL in the same. Price or cheaper
I would sell those before they wear out and just replace with something else text me direct and I can make some recommendations even if I don't have them myself 602-312-6504
@@RobotUnderground 🤣 K
Hey bud can u build a dual 8 ohm sub that can handle 1000rms per coil maybe 15 inch high roll surround. What would that set me back
Sorry, I don't have coils like that. I have some 2" that are D8 but that's it. So like 500wrms.
I hate trying to impress people that are terrible but I absolutely love your youtube content!
still in FB jail btw. Can't reply there. Yeah, that's the Omega 40k bro.
Say what you will about them, JL makes the W7 and that is on of the best sounding subs in the world. Are they worth the price they ask, hell no, but there's not many other alternatives that can compete with them sonically. They're extremely accurate, have a dead flat response, have incredible detail, the list goes on. If you wanna go by wattage and volume, yeah fine there's plenty that outshine it. That's not how everyone compares speakers, though. What good is loud bass if it sounds like shit?
SQ is subjective. I'll stick with comparing performance (apples to apples)
@@RobotUnderground higher wattage ≠ better, what good is 1k watts if most of it is getting lost and not being turned into sound? Wattage is the worst thing to go by to determine what’s better or worse, and what about efficiency? Doesn’t that matter? Moving mass? Cone stiffness? Neodymium vs ferrite magnets? Literally every part of a speaker determines how it’s gonna sound, judging them by how big they are or how much power they can handle is just a pissing match, doesn’t mean anything in the world of sound quality.
@@vb7200 You do realize that I've spent YEARS studying this right? THOUSANDS of builds with testing. Wattage numbers you'll realize is all about abuse. The problem is that if you make it too much of a floppy butthole like JL, then people kill them.
@@RobotUnderground 9 times out of 10 a speaker is blown because of distortion, not excessive wattage. A lot of people installing these things DIY or even having a shop do it have no concept of what that is. The subs get incredibly bad source signals pumped through them and they cook. I’ve seen JL woofers in proper well sorted systems last decades, and I’ve seen them last months in cobbed systems.
@@vb7200 Excessive voltage = Distortion.
I think they’re going after people who like SQ stuff I don’t think they’re made four basing hard/Just like Snap on tools they are a better tool, but are they that much better?❤
What does the v3/d4 variations mean for prices and stuff? I see almost 100 in price difference in like 4 versions of the W6
lol. There are MANY other good deals than JL for the same performance. Let me know your budget.
@@RobotUnderground I just want one sub, likely a 12 since that’s all I ever had. It’s going to be for a semi truck so space isn’t necessarily a deal breaker, I can put the sub on the top bunk. I don’t want massive bass that hits so hard I can’t listen to music after 3/4 hours. I want something to give me that deep rumble. I’d like to keep it below 1000-1200. Upgrading the head unit may also be an option since the one I have kinda sucks
@@Wombats-1 EZ PZ. Just text me when you're ready. 6023126504
So can you rebuild 13w7 because I have 2 there that have collected dust in my shed and I would ONLY pay to rebuild it stronger than before because I paid way too much the first time lol 🤦♂️..
You can't make them, "stronger", but you can use a stiffer suspension. The only way to make a sub stronger is to change the motor / magnet assembly.
Will your parts for these be for sale on your store?
We have discontinued the store due to fraud but you can text me direct if you need parts 602-312-6504
@@RobotUnderground Ok, thanks I will remember that.
Are they better than the 12w3
The W6v3? Yes, by leaps and bounds. JL is just not a good value for the money you're spending. Just like if you only need to get from here to there, it's best not to buy a BMW or Lambo
Patrick, I have a JL 12w6v3 that I broke the "cone" (glorified duat cap) and effed up the vc on. JL wants 400 PLUS shipping to recone.. ummm...yeah, NO
I can help. Text me direct 602-312-6504
Ive always wanted to do this...find some bad ass motors and rebuild my subs up the way I want them. Where would you go to buy something like that?
The most thrilling way to get really affordable subwoofer motors is by dumpster diving behind an audio company or from a shop.
You can also just advertise locally on OfferUp or Craigslist that you buy dead subwoofers.
The most thrilling way to get really affordable subwoofer motors is by dumpster diving behind an audio company or from a shop.
You can also just advertise locally on OfferUp or Craigslist that you buy dead subwoofers.
My buddy has a hard on for those stupid Jl subs. He's gonna love this! Ha! I'll stick with my BDC2 12S. Good video man.
It's just a brand. Performance is where it's at.
I have an Alpine R12. I heard a scratching sound and then the sub sounded terrible. Checked ohms and were fine. Took it apart and only saw a tiny area where there was a rub. What could cause that?
Sounds like some debris. Here in Arizona we get a lot of sand / dirt and rocks in there. Could have been a piece of epoxy that fell off or glue. Just recone and should be fine.
@@RobotUnderground Thanks for the advice. I live in south Florida so sand is plentiful. Mix it with hurricanes and tropical storms and top it off with Sharan dust clouds and I can see this is a definite possibility. (Also, one hell of an unwanted instant skin exfoliation if you aren't careful)
Thanks again. Live the videos!
Just found your channel and subscribed bc im enjoying the woofer content. When comparing the MOFO motor to the W6 you state bigger is better essentially? I get the MOFO will handle
more RMS power but i was under the impression motor size had little to do with performance and whats is more important is BL (with regard to working with the soft parts mms) and magnet grade? I have owned JL woofers many years ago and did like the sound quality and get they are considered overpriced compared to the competitors. I also hear good things about PA MOFO and gothic subs offering good bang for the buck so i get the argument of value although never owned either. Im not for or against either brand and personally buy for performance/value and currently run an NEP 12”. Im no expert and not trying to stir the pot just trying to learn if you could go into a little more detail about your comparison of the 2.
Let's say a JL W3 with 6 layer coil has a BL factor of 24. Sure that's really good but to what point? The magnet and coil size have lots to do with getting rid of the heat. Excursion / displacement is also a factor. That's when you can compare total SPL to Dollars and find the value of your subwoofer. That's just one way to find a value.
@@RobotUnderground so anything under the w6 isn’t worth getting? Your personal opinion?
@@kapokidkidkapo719 In my opinion, NO JL PRODUCTS are magic or worth the premium you'll pay. That's simply my honest opinion, based on performance / price = value.
@@kapokidkidkapo719 he said it best no jl is worth the money. New pioneer d series outperformed the w6 imo.
@@christopherparis6841 what sub model? I’d like to see that
Looking for pair of recone kits for RFR-2212
Check with Springfield Speaker Repair
This channel is informative.i like facts and learning new stuff but jl subs have a sound that you can't get from other subs.Still Ill keep tuning in
If you don't mind paying that much for a sub, be my guest.
It's not just the size of the magnet it's the gap tolerance the top plate the quality of the iron used jl klippel tests all there subs not a jl fan but just tossing random coils in chunks of ferrite and iron doesn't make a good sub I take it most of your customers run high tuned ported one note wonders
The experience of building thousands of woofers tells me different.
I’ve never had a issue with JL. Not one 🤷♂️. To each is there own 🥂
That those prices, you better not
Someone wants to trade me their 10” jl w6 without a box for my 2 kicker l7 10’s in built box. Should I do it?
No.
@@RobotUnderground lol why you say that
@@OleBcy Your L7's are better.
@@RobotUnderground $250 per for the l7’s and the w6 is like $800 per. I feel like there should be a massive difference in the two?
@@OleBcy I have a whole bridge in Brooklyn for sale. Half price, only $5 million.
Ok ok.... I tried to stay away from making a comment here cuz I love the knowledge u give out in ur videos but, I do feel that you are pretty negative with JL. I have had many sound systems from cheap to high end to being on a budget and yes all of these newer brands like skar and CT sounds and so on but everyone and their momma knows that you cannnnooottt beat JL in how clean, crisp and clear their products sound. They hit every note and frequency very good, yes they are pricey, but you pay for quality. I think you dislike them because they have all of their technology pattenned and you as a builder have to deal with that. However they have been in the game a long time which they are constantly updating their products unlike these cheaper sub companies which are awesome but don't match to the sound quality. I think the reason why you constantly are having to rebuild those JL subs is because people that buy them fall in love with the sound and end up wanting more out of them and that's why they blow. Yes those other companies are amazing at producing loud and breath taking bass but they lack in quality as far as sound goes. Just like kicker, they make so much bass for so little power and the moment you push them past that point they blow. You can't design a sub to be efficient and produce glass breaking bass However I think JL and kicker have been able to design a product that gets closer to that than any other brands. And yes JL rubber surround does suck, but come on man.... give credit where credit is due. And if there were so many companies trying to copy your amazing product that you spent so much money engineering..... wouldn't you want to protect it from others too???
Their stuff is fine. I don't have a problem with the performance. I have a problem with their value. They are overpriced and try to come up with ways to gouge their ignorant clients / fans out of even more money when they kill the product or it wears out. Not a fan of that. At those prices, you can buy 4-5 replacements out of pocket or just buy something better, of higher performance for the same money. For example, you can get a 12W7 for $1399.99 plus tax direct from JL Audio.... Or you can get a SoundQubed HDX 12" D1, 5kw amp run at half power, DIY enclosure and 0ga power wire kit for just $1036!
That's just SoundQubed which I think is STILL OVERPRICED.
Imagine if you can still get more performance / value from brands like Soundstream / PPI / Power Acoustik, Skar, American Bass, FU Audio and more! JL is NOT MAGIC! They don't make anything more special than anyone else. In fact, their subs are made of cheap plastic instead of more durable aluminum and paper so they can make even more profit.
Same with cars. I'll take Toyota over BMW or Mercedes any day. I have the confidence and self awareness that I don't need status or to try and impress people that are superficial in the first place. It's always about THE MUSIC, not the status. Would you pay more for a Yeezy flac player or the same music on a $10 or even $20 CD? Status is what leads you by the nose, only to ask you to pay more to cut it off to spite your face. If you love JL, you love status. Go ahead and buy BMW and a gold toilet. Let everyone know how insecure you are about your penis size.
TRY some SSA GCONE or demon subs then let's see if u like JL so much and yes they are very musical as well 😎
Is anyone familiar with the Older Precision Power Power Class PC. 124 ? I just got a pair cheap. The one with the heat sink thing on the cone ! It has a relatively large magnet But are they any good?
Flip it. It's a collector's item.
@@RobotUnderground ok. I played them today and they sound good! I think imma at least break them in.
I had a JL W4 d4 in an omni back in the day with a Legacy LA320 2 channel, and I actually ripped the spider off the basket. JL dealer looked at my amp n said no effin way!!! Immediately said that they would need one of their techs to inspect my install. They pulled in their shop n said all good! They pulled my old woofer out and put a new one in. Then of course they did a sound check and they couldn't believe how much the woofer was moving off that Legacy amp!
Only woofer I ever had to use the warranty on. Got Rockford Fosgate Punch somethings after that then some IDQ 12s.. I abused the hell out of all those never had a problem. JL honestly looked like a cheap realistic replacement woofer for RadioShack, sounded pretty decent for what it was. Not worth the $$$$ tho.
Ah.. Yes. When JL was still in high school with braces.
I want to hit the lowest lows with NO ports. I am looking at Chinese 24" 8 ohm subwoofers (I also like good speaker control) that have "2000 watts RMS."
I am a fan of large speaker cone area in lieu of having a 2" subwoofer with 6 feet of excursion. What do you recommend?
I like ported but you don't need to get down to 20Hz
@@RobotUnderground Oh, the main subs are for the audible stuff. The folded horn sub-sub-subwoofers are for the infrasonic stuff.
@@exploranator tactile transducers are WAY better.
@RobotUnderground hmmm. Seen those... they seemed kinda, er weird...
Yeah I was foolish once and left JL but I'm back runnimg all JL and even their amps now too. JL just sounds better. I guess I have money to burn. I love the w6s and w7s. The C7 line is amazing. The Vxi amps, Hd, XD and RD amps are all great amps. Personally I like beautiful custom builds with sound quality which takes a lot of money to build. I guess you just like moving air. I miss when everyone took pride in their builds but now I go to shows and it's just trash cans rattling. Probably why JL pulled out because everyone looks for the biggest magnet but has know clue how efficient JL subs are. By the way what's the name of your subwoofers?
Jizz Llama
@@RobotUnderground Wow! The hate runs deep.
This is a biased review of him admitting he's going to copy jl designs to "make them better" by China. Copyright infringement plus outsourcing....bet you voted for Biden as well?
@@jwinn1179 lol Where do you think JL parts are made?
@@RobotUnderground your reply is invalid. After watching the vid, I have no interest in your response. Also have no interest in a dick measuring contest, so good day sir.
"Drill hole technology" roflmao!
Jl v3 spiders are yellow.
Not dirty orange.
Do yourself a favor and avoid the tweaker.
Well that's what happens when you corrupt a good Mormon woofer
NGL, I currently run a 10w7 with a ported box I built according to JL specs. Best sounding sub I have owned. Only sub that rivals it is my Elemental Designs A12 with a flat "cone". I also have a 12w7 but it is in a sealed box. So it does not move as freely as the 10w7.
Edit: BTW, I still own a pair of 12" Hard Times subs I got from your eBay days. Mint condition. I bust them out every so often and pound on them and they do not disappoint!
I'm glad those turds are still jammin. I was building those things in my living room.
@@RobotUnderground LOL! Hell yeah.
1995 12w6 300 watts 1.5 inch xmaxx one way
You should do a demo with Dead Game 12" hurricane 1500rms 55# sub they have the clear and most punch sound i have heard they are pricey but worth it like your channel keep the video's coming o yeah there 3" vc and 4ohm wired down to 1 i believe it is there beast
All subs are the same.
Aren't the same same damn typos lol
@@lawrenceyoung9669 You are correct. I sell a quad stack for the same price and 3yr warranty AND made right here in Arizona, custom for you. Lots of colors to choose from. I will even make it blank with no badge so you can flip it to your JL friends for $500 each while it out performs their 12W7 that they paid $900-1200 for.
We put a mofo motor on a lawnmower to pick up the old nails and screws that were laying around lol. I do need a recone for an Alpine r-w12d4
Text me directly at 6023126504
I have a pair of jl audio w6 from 1999 I wouldn't part with them for anyting
I decided to try out the Audiofrog GB12 D4 over this…I hope I made a good decision. :)>
lol. An expensive decision for sure. AF is insanely over priced
@@RobotUnderground well I bought 2 of them, lol…awesome sealed birch wood box being built with an ArcAudio x2 1100.1 amp…in my small Toyota Access cab I think that should be banging pretty good…but I definitely want some good sound as well…time will tell. 😎
Have you heard the Audiofrog GB12 subs before?
@@Shadowx011 Make sure your electrical is up to par
batteryhookup.com/products/new-battery-hookup-lifep04-32650-3-2v-5000mah-cells-1
@@RobotUnderground I have no idea what this means but something tells me my five year old battery is going to have to be upgraded, lol
That sub isn't worth nowhere near $700+ no way in hell would I pay $700+ for a 600 watt woofer 😂😂😂.. do you know why they sale those for that insane price??? That's getting into sundown Z series prices and the sundown Z series would absolutely murder that woofer. And with that price you could buy two Skar VXf 12"s and 15"s for around that price... I mean that's crazy expensive even cost more than the HCCA 12 😂
Ya JL h as always been overpriced. I had a w6v2. Cheap plastic cone. Single junk spider. Most likely kapton former which isn’t that great. I bought it for $15 and sold it for a lot more.
A JL sub (10w3) is the only sub I've ever had that failed on me. The tinsel lead snapped. I think it could have been an easy fix but I just wanted to try something else. I've tried JL 10w3, Fosgate P310, Alpine S10, Sundown E10, Alpine R10, Alpine S10 (again) in that order. The JL was the best sounding by a distance. Alpine S10 next for overall sound quality and the rest were just good on SPL nothing special. All powered around 500-1000 watts rms depending on the setup so maybe they are worth the money. I just wouldn't get that 10w3 again until they change how they attach the tinsel leads because I like overpowering my subs. I wanted to get the next step up a 10w6 but for that price forget it and then what if I blow it again? The others I listed can take a beating (Alpine R10 hands down winner). I don't want a fragile sub.
I had two NVX VCW 12s 1000 RMS each blew w6s away in the proper box even the NVX X series 12s not as loud but way more musical outstanding SQ
Dumbest fucking comment I’ve seen… “I want to try the w6 rated for 600 rms but I love to overpower my subs, what if I blow it again?”… try giving it the power it’s rated for dumbass, had the JL HO112-W6v3 on their XD600/1v2 for 6 years now and the thing knocks hard af without an issue! How dumb would I look if I even get a a sundown X12 rated for 1500 watts rms and put 3k watts rms on it and it blew and then I sit there and think… “but why?… must be crap quality I guess”. Fucking match an amp the sub is rated for! Easy as that smh.
@@dopeimean23 I've tried many different subs on the same amp. Some can handle more than rated and some can't. From my last JL experience, they aren't too good with more than rated but a Sundown or Rockford can handle more than rated. Why does this bother your stupidass so much?
@@dopeimean23 you're really mad that I want a rigid subwoofer not a flimsy one. jesus christ get a life.
@@jimjones3287 Not at all, your comments just makes shit worth of sense, you literally stated that you like to overpower a sub completly disregarding the rating the actual fucking creator has given it saying don't exceed this much rms as it won't hold up. Then you proceed to dog shit on the brand/sub because of your own moronic user error stating it blew. Please explain to me how your mindset makes any logical sense whatsoever? ANY sub you buy, even comp level subs that cost THOUSANDS will blow if you're constantly overpowering it aka clipping the shit out of it. Your comment is just pointless and makes no logical sense.
I appreciate your expertise. I hope you stopped supporting China. Just because it's cheaper doesn't mean it's better
There's no way to stop supporting China. They own a big chunk of the debt of the corporation known as United States of America.
@@RobotUnderground I can't believe you replied. American made is the only way to do it and it's nearly impossible to do anymore.
@@bayarea757 Well I can't even keep up.
Why do people buy this cheap JL when they can get a better commercial sub from American Bass or better yet a custom from Patrick. 18in AB Godfather $400. 400oz 4in coil. Come on guys. B2 audio has huge motors for cheap
USA made
Man I would love to be exploited by a speaker company. At least I would be highly interested in my work.
Typical JL Junk, I'd Take an Image Dynamics Sub over JL any day of the week if I wanted a "SQ" build.
ID is in the same boat. All gimmick. Tough to find parts.
I agree JL is overpriced but the W6 SQ wise is amazing. What sub do you favor for SQ applications? Thanks!
@@ap6462 WTF is SQ? I only know hair tricks :)
@@RobotUnderground what do U recommend Dayton audio? Savard? Jbl? Infinity audio? Memphis?
@@kapokidkidkapo719 It depends on what size you want, what impedance and what your final application is.
Tru👍👍👍 back in the day 1997 the Price was Good but Know there are stupid overpriced 🥺🥺🥺I had 12w4 JL Audio fro $145.00 but 🥺🥺🥺👎👎👎
Yeah, I'm building the W6v2 for only $150 plus shipping and 3 yr warranty.
@@RobotUnderground do you have old Rockford 15inch or Custom Punch Sub with a 500 Rms
Or 700 watts Rms ... Because I have a Kicker 500.1 Amp....
@@alexoviedo9107 I have a Majestic 15" D4 for $100 that would do well. 3" coil, good for almost 1kw.
Every time I see JL I feel like they ripped me off even though I haven't bought anything
Pourquoi tu a acheté un
I enjoy how you talk crap about JL, easily one of the most prestigious audio company. Then you talk about your plans to steal there technology to put into your own line. Value is second to performance.
Is there a question in there? I think the point of the video is that JL doesn't do anything special. If they did other companies would follow suit but they don't. Mostly because it's cheaper to do the same job another way. Which is what Microsoft and the PC as well as Android have done versus Apple. Apple doesn't like to admit that it's not as good and it tells its followers that it's magic and they believe it. The same with techroline from Chevron. Or authentic Italian food versus Olive garden. There is more than one way to be and to get a job done.
One of the reasons I want to sell a similar motor is that people like it. And also because JL does not offer it on its own for experiment. Also if you have frames and other parts but you're missing the motor your shit out of luck if you ask JL
I would love to know what technology they have to steal.
Yea don’t buy jl but buy our clone cause it’s based off JL design but not JL😅
What's the difference between a really hot chick in your local bar and a Playboy bunny? $$$$
Da fuuuu..thats way very over priced
Finally somebody who agrees jl isn't all that 😂😂😂
Lord bless the butthurt
So JL sucks but you're gonna copy their technology? What a plug you are.
If you listened, instead of getting offended, I said they don't provide a good value. Meaning that they cost too much.
Please rich person, go buy JL and shut the fuck up.
@@RobotUnderground LoL Easy there sparky! Come up with your own technology instead of ripping on companies that have invested much time & money to try and move the industry forward. JL is pricey. How do you think they come up with their own tech? You're a hack. A thief. Go ahead and delete my posts now so people don't see the douche you are. Are you the new Elemental Designs? LoL
@@jasonjrf I didn't make this video just for you. Why are you so sensitive about the subject? Why are you taking this personally?
@@RobotUnderground Sorry man but you do sound like a hater... I agree that JL is a overpriced, but their SQ is far superior to any of the other brands you mentioned. You also acted like a 900w sub was better than JL's 600w.... Surely you have to understand the JL builds efficient subs that DON'T REQUIRE ridiculous amounts of power and will sound better at 600w than that 900w sub ever could.... These subs with ridiculously unnecessary watt rating are simply a market scheme for big ego people...
"I got 3000 watts"... "I got 5000 watts"... "I GOT 10,000 WATTS"..! and they all sound like sh!t with overwhelming bass... Those are not "musical" systems.
Efficient subs and clean power will absolutely KILL at 500 to a 1000 watts in a SQ system... I'm not talking about that stupid SPL sh!t.
I had 12w1's and the little Slash 250/1 and people couldn't believe that was all I was running... accused me of having another amp hidden... They are still beatin in my buddy's Tahoe 10 years latter...
I don't own JL's now because of the price, but that's no reason to sh!t on them... They haven't stayed in business for 40+ years building a sh!t product... JL is for those that don't mind paying top dollar for superior sound quality.. But I will say my $230. round Kicker Q Class subs are not $400. less in sound quality, in fact I would say they not far at all from JL's. As you would say, the Q Class is a "good value"... Better value than the JL's, IMO.
@@2869may Well that's the same garbage that Apple spews about how their products are better or why they've been in business so long, or are a $T company. There are a lot of stupid people out there that have more money than time. If that's what you picked up in this video, you are one of them.
Hater