Wow, super informative! I knew most of this already, but this is great information to pass down to new bassheads. I do wish you had touched on damping factor, as it's an important concept. It shows how well an amp can control the current, which directly affects the subwoofer's performance. A higher damping factor results in better control, giving you improved sound quality and punchier bass.
Another excellent video! You should do one comparing power levels of parallel vs. series wiring using the same drivers, amplifier, and enclosure. This will debunk the term "box rise."
I'm not entirely sure how that debunks the term box rise, maybe something attached to the subject I'm unaware of? The term is definitely surrounded by misunderstandings, probably initially coined by people experimenting and crudely testing the power output in different enclosures. Many people, even today, don't even think about impedance curves, and they conflate a nominal impedance to the DC resistance. To me the term just means, that an enclosure affects the impedance curve. Some people probably incorrectly believe it's inherently bad.
@@mattwells1036 What I mean, is that the term "box rise" is inaccurate. It misleads people into thinking that it's solely caused by the enclosure. This may be true for a single subwoofer with a single voice coil, but with a single subwoofer and dual voice coils, the amount of rise will vary, depending on how that subwoofer's coils are wired. The delta between DC resistance of each configuration will be proportionally different. There are many variables to this that could be discussed. I'm just trying to compare basic configurations of "the average Joe."
This was a firehose of information. Watch multiple times to get more out of it. All of what's in it are things I've learned over the decades. Good stuff. Got to appreciate the work that goes into making these videos. Thanks Justin!
Hey, thanks for watching man! Video probably won't do well since I dropped it in the middle of the day on a Monday, but that's okay. This is more about getting a resource out for people to use.
@@DIYAudioGuy they will catch it in your rotation, which due to the complexity of sub wiring, may be for the best. I really love that you have that calculator on your site. Giving back to the community in such a way is so cool.
12:19 "When you pass a coil through a magnetic field you create voltage". 11:41 - That impedance spike @ 62hz is directly due to the voltage the speaker itself creates as it moves its coil back and forth in the magnetic field. Since the cone vibrates the most at the resonant frequency, it creates the most back emf (electromotive force - voltage) back towards the amplifier. That measures as increases resistance to current flow therefore increased impedance. When you put that driver in a box that impedance curve will change. Anywhere on that new curve you see an impedance minimum the cone hardly moves back and forth (although it is sucking lots of power and pushing hard) and it's the boxes/ports/chambers/horns resonance that does most of the work. Anywhere on that curve you see an impedance maximum, the cone is moving like crazy doing all the work and the boxes/ports/chambers/horns are not resonating much.
I always paralleled mine back in the day. Dropped them to 2 ohms. Of course you have to an amp that can handle 2 ohm stable. I burned one amp up because of that. Lesson learned. Lol
Great vid! 🎉 was hoping you woulda covered how best to connect a dvc to a mono amp with 2 speaker outputs. (Connect wires at sub? Or connect seperate wires from each mono output to each VC ) 🎉
If you have a mono amp with outputs for 2 speakers, its not a mono amp. Its a bridged stereo amp. So, if I'm reading your post correctly and you have a bridged amp, you need to be careful. Bridging a stereo amp is very hard on it. When you connect a speaker to a bridged amp, it shows the amp half its rating in ohms. For example, if you have a 4 ohm speaker, that exact same speaker is 2 ohms if you connect it to a bridged amp. You should only bridge an amp if you have to. Its best just to use it in stereo mode.
Would there be a noticable difference running 1 ohm vs 2 ohms as I am now ??...2 ddx10d4 on a taramps smart 3k wired 2 ohms...I hit 145 now....thanks for any help....and love the page !! 👊
That is a feature that I wanted to include in the calculator. I got caught in one too many if then or else loops. I got to the point where I needed to stop cutting bait and go fishing so I went ahead and launched the web page. I'll circle back to that feature at some point in the future.
did you really say that it doesn't matter if you wire a single 2 ohm dual coil sub in series or parallel because they both will give you 1 ohm? wow that's gonna screw somebody up...
He is talking about wiring in series and parallel at the same time. I have done it successfully on home theatre speakers. Only using matched impedance speakers. This type of wiring is a must when running multiple speakers of one channel.
I'll have to clarify that. It's an issue with the calculator. If you only have one voice coil, it doesn't matter if you select series or parallel wiring because the calculator will give you the same result in either situation. Likewise, if you only have one subwoofer, there's no other subwoofer to wire it too. So series versus parallel will not affect the calculation.
@@stuartwinter2758 One time with a nice home stereo amp I wired 2 4 ohm speakers together on parallel for each channel. Didn't realize this was loading 2 ohms on each channel and not 4. It sounded great. The amp only lasted a few months before it burned itself out. Shame
@@connormason7907 They don't realize you don't get more power that way. You're just forcing the amp to work twice as hard. They think if an amp is rated for 1 or 2 ohms, you should try wire the system to get as close to that as possible. Its insane. If the speaker is easier to drive, you don't need as much power. In one ear and out the other.
Speaker “impedance” , when measured with multimeter is only electrical resistance of the coil, not speaker while being driven. While under load, speaker impedance continuously changes. Nominal impedance is usually the lowest at a given frequency which is a very narrow. Most impedance is much higher. I’m using Hertz amps which are 2 ohm stable, yet I have them loaded to 1 ohm at zero negative impact, going now on 3rd year, running them just below 15 Vdc. at high volumes.
I have a 6 ohm JVC i would like to connect some 8 ohm subwoofers . I know it would lower the volume but would it take away from the beefiness of the bass ?
I tried making a dual 15" subwoofer setup with a 16" cube. Tested in parallel, and it was horrible. Tested in series, things sounded better, because 8Ohm x 2 was easier on the amp than 8Ohm/2... BUT, the woofers were arm wrestling with the subwoofer box air mass at high amplitudes. 🤦 So, I flipped polarity of one speaker in series, so the excursion phases are opposite, while still making the same sound frequency. This way, the second subwoofer makes omnidirectional bass, and the front-facing sub reinforces the sound by lowering the distortion and air mass/volume displaced from the box and increasing the amplitude of the sound made. Basically, it's an air-coupled, dual-mass woofer, in an absurdly small box, but it works great
Here's a more likely explanation, you had the polarity flipped on one of the subwoofers when you initially connected them and then corrected the problem when you rewired. ua-cam.com/video/2hf_dymCBMY/v-deo.htmlsi=LdtiTJsaACCyT1hp I know this comment probably comes off as a little bit snarky, it's legitimately not.
@DIYAudioGuy I'm not a newbie at this... I can follow the terminals of both speakers, and know how things were set up. I also explained why I did the polarity flip for one woofer... Box was super small, and during each phase of excursion, they were trying to arm wrestle, as the air in the box was resisting their efforts at displacing and replacing the volume of the cabinet. Now they work Together, since the travel of one subwoofer is complimented by inverse travel of the other. Before, both pushed out at same time, then in at the same time, and the low air cabinet volume was causing massive distortion from air coupling. I believe if they were 12"s like the original, it would work fine in series or parallel, but two 15"s in same polarity phase shove enough air to make the whole cabinet pressure/vac levels interfere with the subwoofers. Used to have it turned down super low to prevent distortion and audio clipping, but now it runs fine up to super high vol level, and the clarity of bass notes at longer distances impressed me.
I know based upon physics a skar SVR xmax is suppose to take down a kicker compR but is there anything that going with a name brand like fosgate P2, kicker or mtx 5512-44… Things we can’t generally know off their box.
I just started watching the video, BUT I still ask this - can I use two identical lower-power amplifiers to power a dual-voicecoil woofer assuming I balanced the amplifiers with the multimeter before that with same input and frequency?
do it at your own risk...but theoretically...yes...you could do that? Thats basically what an amplifier is, a bunch of stacked small amplifying circuts building power each stage(in fact that's what "bridging" an amp is-you're just tying the left and right channels together). But the issue would be matching the waveforms, if they arent really close to being in phase (matching each other) they would just fight against the other and cause a lot of heat/distortion/possible damage. Again, do this at your own risk....but i dont think you would hurt anything trying it-maybe at a low volume at first. Make sure to use the same input and keep the levels matched. Try one then add the second and see if it works. Keep feeling the magnet to see if its getting hot. Again, I'm NOT saying its a great idea, but it is interesting. Personally id use the smaller amps for some door speakers or something and get a bigger amp for the subs. Amps are cheap as hell now. But i understand if you just don't have the cash and wanna try some science. But it depends how much the sub and amps cost, if you got them dirt cheap then yolo (ps, if you do try this-come back and tell me if it worked. Im curious too). Btw, have you tried just one amp? It might be loud enough on its on. People get caught up in big numbers but ive seen small amps rattle a car. Maybe hook one amp to the speaker in parallel and just see if its good enough
Yes, you would need to match the voltage and the phase. It's something that can be done but it's not something I would recommend. The juice is just not worth the squeeze.
@@DIYAudioGuy well I have two identical 2-ohm capable amplifiers, but they cannot do 1-ohm. the woofers I use are all dual 2-ohm voicecoil versions so I figured for home use I could utilize these amps. bought these few years ago brand new and now they have almost no market value so I thought I can give them a new purpose with active cooling and all that as I feel my current 150W 4ohm plate amp is not enough any more lol
@vahvelpoiss in order to avoid the possibility of blowing stuff up, make sure the amps can be linked or the industry term strapping. You still have to follow the limitations of the amps as well ie if they are 2ohm stable each then you can't put a dual 1ohm on them . For about a year I ran a single 12 diamond audio da1d2 on two kicker sx1250.1 since the sub was a dual 2 and the amps were made for 1ohm I wasn't even stressing the amps and the signal was so clean I could lay into the 300w rms all I wanted . Wish I still had that setup . Was in a crx and was louder than guys with 4 15s . I think I remember it hit 143db ? Dumb loud
@@mathias4891 these arent supporting any linking. newer models from same manufacturer, like the one I have in car does actually have a linking support. I just thought to throw together a cheap amp rack for a home audio sub build with two amps. I have a 300W 12V power supply and two dual-channel amps that do 180W @ 4ohm bridged, or 2x90W at 2ohm.
Back in the day there were companies selling quarter ohm stable amplifiers. These were commonly referred to as cheater amps because the car audio contest based their various classes on the manufacturer's 4 ohm power rating.
Dc can produce much trough switch andvphase controlers and this used to be a way amps worked but people do talk on it much but yes dc can should you be send a amp to clipping to the point it produces dc power no it wasnt designed to do so but a newer amp that dose this kinda is the kicker warehouse 10k amp is had a dc output for each coik of a sub and you had to wire one coil to each input and it would switch between coils in push pull coil 1 push coil 2 pull
Only thing you mention that made me scratch my head was when you said (paraphrased) that by going from 8ohms to 4 ohms you often double your amps power thus giving you more power and a louder output. Correct me if I am wrong but dropping from 8ohm to 4 ohm (or 4 to 2 or 2 to 1) has a 3 db loss of sensitivity so while you do gain more power, the speaker is less sensitive so you do not increase output.
I've never heard that before. Where did you get that information? You might find this video interesting. ua-cam.com/video/4kDxUcGCe8M/v-deo.htmlsi=Xb5nEFPqpJBZ0OLe
If you're working with "traditional" amp design with fixed voltage rails of some amount, and that defines your FTC 8 ohm RMS power limit, while the power supply is capable of double the current an 8 ohm load requires, then in theory changing to a 4 ohm load still operates at that rails based voltage, but doubles the current (not really due to ESR), and in turn doubles the power. Bridge mode in effect also halves the impedance load per side, while summing two out of phase sides. If an amp is optimized for higher or lower impedances, the same relationships could exist in a 32 ohm or 1 ohm system. Prior to cheap DC-DC converters, lower impedance for a mobile system limited by battery voltage would raise potential power output, but that's how a 4-5 watt rated amp would actually output 1 watt if the alternator wasn't running. Bridge mode amps kicked that up to around 10 watts, while anything automotive about that requires DC-DC converters. Speaker sensitivity is electromechanical systems design, and overlaps enclosure designs. That's around 33% for an optimal loading compression driver (higher has uncontrolled distortion issues), whereas many home stereo speakers operate in the 0.5% electrical power to acoustic energy transfer range. That's where precise and careful use of language is important, to distinguish system overall function and elements contributing to that.
Note, many newer amps use digital waveform synthesis and flters, and some use variable voltage rails to limit thermal loads when higher isn't needed for full potential output power. That can become a single ended line rectified supply with no power transformer, and a microprocessor driven smart DC-DC converter with a comparatively small and light toroid for line safety isolation, feeding MOSFET amp output drivers.
Wire a dvc sub in series as it doubles the BL (hits harder, more control). Wiring a dvc in parallel you make the sub sloppy by cutting the BL in half and you kill the damping factor.
super informative video, god ting i know what all the tings are called, because even i had too jump back too get what you ware saying. Slowe down, easy on the 15 different examples. Its easy too understand when we know evey name of every part.. What was seies vs paralell? what was a voice... dual 4 .. 2... before or after wiered... in what configuration. But i don't DO youtube, i only watch.. so ho am I too complain..
So i need to weld all the red 2ohm wires parallel from the black 4ohm wires to level the impedance load from the different inductions that power the wired piping inside my subs right?
@rocknrolljesus3197 Yeah, everything runs on my cars wifi now. Also bridged my battery terminals and installed a 24K bi-quadruple shielded remote cable.
8:32 he is saying that the driver moving back and forth is what produces the sound , but it is incorrect . If u hold the driver in your hand while in use , it doesn't make sound . It's the driver and it only moves , while in doing so , it moves air as a result . The sound is generated at the port opening when the air moves in and out , as well as the box will vibrate , resulting in additional frequencies that contribute to what we know as sound .
I've got a ton of videos describing how all this works. Why don't you give a couple of them a look? ua-cam.com/play/PL3Aot9dMXzXZ21MXAzvirExu0sfsWWSHT.html&si=iYfopWva6hvtncRx
Dig key calculator works great and you can add multiple resistance. Bud you have said multiple times now that your calculator will give you the same in parallel or series. I hope your just miss saying it.
@@davidschreckengost7959 If you have a single coil and a single subwoofer and you choose parallel you will get the same result as if you choose series since there is no second thing to wire it to.
What are some good 12inch shallow mount subs that will bang in my single cab for a reasonable price for the power I want something good plan on running d4s jp8
Pioneer were considered the best shallow subs in their price bracket for a fair bit. I've used and installed a heap in all different sizes and have found them to be very good quality and if mounted in a decent box they play about as low and loud as anything else in that price bracket. I really can't fault them to be honest. Id love to see a comparison between some of the common shallow subs as where i am most people don't want or (more commonly because they drive mid size utes (pick up trucks)) can't fit a giant box in their car but do want more than a factory system can provide. Do it dude!!! Shallow mount shoot out!!!!! And maybe box design to maximise volume utilising odd areas of the vehicle. Always a fun project!! Love your work @DIYAudioGuy you're breeding a new generation of bassheads and we need them to keep the boombap alive!!!!
yup likely, to a varying degree. you get better quality sound with strong amps keeping them in 3-4 ohm. better for the longevity of your gear, efficiency and safer too
There are people who claim that as the resistance lowers the sound quality decreases because the amplifier damping factor will decrease as the resistance decreases. Most people in that camp are willing to die on that Hill. I am in the other camp. I don't think it makes any difference. I should probably make a video explaining my reasoning.
Yes, there is a difference in the quality of the sound reproduced. Most people do not look at, care about, nor understand damping and how that correlates into the scope of things. As you decrease the damping, you begin to decrease what's commonly referred to as "Cone control" as well, this is only one aspect of things though. Think of it like this: your car has a strut assembly, which is basically a shock and a coil spring. They work simultaneously to provide stability and control. As the shock(damper) begins to degrade, the vehicle becomes more bouncy as in a floating effect, as it starts relying upon the coil spring and then the suspension becomes much less stable. As you lower the ohm load, you decrease the damping. But, is always a big debate.
@@Chuck_Sanders just a rough adwise id usually give to people new to this. the cheaper/worse amp, the more important it is to stay at around 4 ohms. again safety, longevity and sq
@@DIYAudioGuy would be interesting if you at some point more or less.. could measure distortion etc, and also your subjective opinion on sub sound pressure and sound quality 1 vs 2 vs 4ohm loads. also I think guys maybe underestimate how hot amps and cables can be, and power lost when pushing those large watt numbers with cables not up to the task
If by depth you mean playing low frequencies, then it will have no impact on the depth of the bass. The music does not care how you wire the subwoofers. What most people do is select subwoofers so that they can wire them down to 1 ohm and then use a 1 ohms stable amplifier to get more power.
This is a difficult set of topics to address at an introductory level, as it really requires some physics, math, and engineering to grasp vector sums of complex reactive circuits, motor-generator systems, and practical circuit design versus theory. On one simple issue, pushing the speaker coil across the static magnetic poles generates current, not voltage, though that in turn may be seen as resulting in voltage across certain elements. The whole idea of multi-voice coil sub's is marketing hucksterism, that should simply be avoided for competent audio engineering of good systems. Ideally instead a single larger sub and matched amp would get a line level mix fed into a single channel power amp and voice coil, and driver and power level and enclosure matched to the space. That should not exist in normal cars, while owning 500 acres of land is too little to contain or dissipate some audio systems with good low end capabilities, and respect neighbors. Generally power amps in the 1500-1800 watt range are useful, as they hit limits based on AC supply circuit size, and match well to larger bass drivers now in commercial production. Damping factor and thermal designs as well as protection circuits and design to source or sink reactive loads, are all important factors, where generally parallel drivers should be limited, and series drivers avoided. A good pro grade amp will feed a 1 ohm or 200 ohm load on one channel while shorted with a heavy metal rod across railroad ties wired to its other output. That costs money to design, and most consumer toys will self destruct first. Most amps are designed for an optimal load impedance, based on damping factor, complex impedance variations, thermal factors, power supply design and rails limits on voltage or current, weight, distortion, protection circuits, etc. Often a bridge mode will deliver 3 times and not the waveform and Ohm's Law theory 4 times single channel power, because of ESR in those lumped systems (equivalent series resistance). Bridge mode is sort of like halving load Z per side, and summing two amp sides. Large modern MOSFETs handle such factors far better than older bipolar transistor outputs. The two main things missing from this video, are disclaimers that the real world engineering needs basic STEM background as a precursor to the higher levels of how things really work, AND that lots of consumer products are sold that are really hucksterisn for buyers lacking good audio engineering understanding, and are really better to not buy, not install, and not recommend, than to bother calculating superficial theory of workable load impedances, versus just avoid that crap and do any channel mixes or band filters at line level, and feed that to single amps and normal single voice coil drivers, that won't have pairs of magnetic high energy fields competing.
@DIYAudioGuy Nah, I'm an older engineer, and I've already done that. That's why I both appreciate this effort to teach complex topics in simple form, and despise sloppy language use that needs to be corrected later for victims, merged with implicit promotion of consumer scam products that create more problems than they solve, while trying to trick the engineering illiterate into buying more expensive and less functional products than can better address the same system goals. I've done AM directional antenna system engineering, and helped Glen Clark develop vector sums based software that considered complex impedance relationships from interactions of towers and earth impedance with its weather and soil variants, along with complex audio processing systems, and contributing to a panel on MPEG-1 Layer 3 development. Speaker related complex impedance and related art and science issues are simple, by comparison. But still pretty complex, in ways words and pictures cannot fully express.
I'm the opposite: I seek higher impedance (8ohm and above) speakers for the home at least. Certifiably more crankable! Low impedance speakers (2-4ohms) are deafeningly loud with the volume knob set at 1/10!
If my subwoofer has sticker on the motor saying "3000w 2x2ohm" Then it will take 3000w, but store page says 1500rms, i have 1500w amplifier but will i buy amp that can do constant 3000w to get everything out of my speaker?
3000w will be peak power, not performance. Youll usually find that the 3000w peak will only be at a certain frequency band meaning not the full frequency range you set it to or want to play at. Look at the subwoofer manufacturers graphs for more information.
I would run 2 ohms and below if I had a high end amp which typically has a very high dampening factor. I will just stick to 4 ohms since i can't afford those amps.
You should really show how resistance is calculated with like 3 resistors, seeing symbols like that won't make sense to many. Showing a sum and inverse sum of inverses would give viewers a better understanding.
while the formula for impedence is not technically ohm's law....it is very similar (just with allowances for reactance, ie capacitance etc.). Its been 25 yrs since i took electronics but even in class we used the name pretty much interchangeably-at least early on until we got to trigonometry and wave designs, so people could be forgiven for calling it ohm's law
orrrr.. as another option, save space and money and find a properly sensitive driver that gives you the right output level without mucking with all this. dump it into a properly tuned transmission line enclosure and decimate. the one for my jetta is only a bit bigger than the regular sealed box (15in tall, ~18d, 26w. which is only 8ish wider than the sealed box that was in there previously), using a 12 inch lord of bass LBX12, and still fits nicely into the trunk without eating every inch of the space. its limited, for obvious reasons, but i can still fit various emergency supplies and what not in there. and with the right driver, and actually tuning the box, the enclosure _doesn't_ need to be some super heavy monster you have to have a large suv to run it in. (yay for winisd and online TL box calculators) even running it at 4ohms (i'm not pushing my amp that hard, for what should be obvious reasons, since its a 5 channel that also drives my fronts and rears), it has moooorrrrree than enough output to satisfy me. and maybe break a window if i'm not careful. for anyone curious, the calculator is "Dual Fold On-Axis Transmission Line Enclosure Calculator" on dbxdynamixaudio's website, since i can't link. they used to do custom plans for boxes for a small fee, but the website is partially broken these days, so who knows whats going on there. the calculator page still works fine, but it is an embedded excel style table. and you need to know some driver specs. with some fiddling of the max dimensions you can stuff one into a lot of spaces (mind being able to get it into a trunk or whatever when designing!) and it even works great for home theater sub boxes if you have the space.
@@DIYAudioGuy its fooookin greaaat, man ;) done right, a good TL box hits harder, and louder. the main problem is trying to stuff a driver that needs a larger box into one and thinking its going to come out reasonable, since you need not only the volume, but the 'port' as well, which you fold twice. you can fudge the 'box' volume, but the port has to be as close to exact as possible to get the sound to come out right. thankfully, the calculator i mentioned gives you the exact board sizes and how many, so almost all of the planning is done for you. if you're bored one of these days and want to (and haven't), i can fully recommend playing around if you're got a spare driver with relatively small box reqs for the ported spec.
Are you sure that if you wire a single dual 2 ohm woofer in series it doesnt give you 4 ohms? Because I have done it both ways and there is a very distinct difference in volume from the woofer but that might just be because its a kicker subwoofer. 😂
yea, at one point in the video he said it "doesn't matter matter if we choose parallel or series wiring, its going to give us the same answer...1 ohm". That was confusing (and sounded incorrect) but i think he meant as far as the calculator was concerned since it was a single sub? It could have been worded better. But yes, parallel drops impedance, series increases it. Think of the old "water flow" theory. If you lay 2 pipes in parallel "=" (next to each other) it makes it twice as easy to flow, ie less impedance. If you put the pipes in series "- -" it has to go twice as far and it makes it twice as hard to flow through, more impedance. (i hope i said that clearly)
You're providing good, factual information but I don't believe that more power equals more bass. I build a custom home theater enclosure with a hand built driver that as roughly 5 feet tall, 18 feet wide, and 3 feet deep. The driver sits inside a sealed enclosure and blows through a folded horn. It is capable of reaching 170db at 35 hz in a gymnasium with the mic 20 feet away from the horn. The voice coil reads @ 5.2 Ohms and it is fed by a 500 watt plalte amp, clamped, it's using 160-180W of the amps power. The enclosure lets the driver play flat from 28Hz to 180Hz with little to no variation in volume as the frecquency changes. I spent 11 years of my life perfecting these things. Your enclosure is the most important part of what you want to accomplish, next is your electrical system, third is your amplifier, and last are your drivers. Just my 1.7 cents.
@@DIYAudioGuy 100%. I compete in SPL and SQL car audio competition and always have a good laugh when the guy who has more money than knowledge about how the equipment works and they're pushing 50Kw through their system or spent 100K on the most ridiculously expensive gear they could buy only to lose to the guys that do understand what is happening.
If you're just talking about wiring them up somehow or another, I made a calculator for that, I even made entire UA-cam video showing off the calculator. Beyond that, you'll need crossovers, not sure what you want to do there. Are you planning on using the crossover that's on the amp or a DSP? Or do you plan on using a passive crossover network?
I don't think your 1-Ohm schematic is correct. You are showing a 2-Ohm load in series with a 2-Ohm load, which is 4-Ohms bridged. In order for it to be 1-Ohm, there would have to be a separate lead going to the second sub from the same amp terminal.
i must be more lost then i thought because im not even sure what this guy is trying to explain...what was the point of this and how am i getting any information that tells me how to make more bass? this was like listening technical data sheet
It can be confusing when your not familiar with car audio and wiring subs with amps, but essentially he was trying to explain the importance of the impedance of amps and speakers. Matching the impedance of your amp to your sub/subs is important to get the most power out of your system, and the quality of the sound you get. Wiring the subs differently will get different results. Wiring them wrong will either overwork your amp, your subs, or basically change the performance of them both. I know this isn't an explanation of how to wire your set up, but hopefully that helps you understand what this video explains. If you are looking for specific instructions for the equipment you have, you can either reach out to the manufacturer or refer to the instructions (if you have instructions) to get specifics on your set up. The impedance is important, and you really will want to choose the correct wiring set up (on the voice coil/coils terminals) for the subs you are using along with the amps capabilities. Wiring them wrong can make them sound less them desirable, it can make your amp overheat, or blow the speakers prematurely.
It might be obvious to you, but there's not a day that goes by where I don't see somebody asking this question online. Now those people that don't know have a tool they can use, hopefully this video makes someone's life a little bit better or at least a little bit easier.
Did it ever occur to anyone that a dead short is 0 ohms? These 1 and 2 ohm loads that everyone is trying to achieve is just a slight step away from disconnecting your speaker cables and touching them together. How can that possibly be a good thing? When you decrease ohms, you get more power? No, jackass. If you want more power you buy a bigger amplifier. When you get "more power" by lowering resistance, you're not really getting more power, you're just making your amp work twice as hard to drive the same speaker. When a power amp is rated at 1 or 2 ohms, its called a worst case scenario. You're not supposed try and wire everything to get as close as possible. That's what a 16 year old kid would do. If you have a speaker that's easy to drive, you don't need all that power to begin with.
Check out the calculator here: diyaudioguy.com/?page_id=69
Wow, super informative! I knew most of this already, but this is great information to pass down to new bassheads. I do wish you had touched on damping factor, as it's an important concept. It shows how well an amp can control the current, which directly affects the subwoofer's performance. A higher damping factor results in better control, giving you improved sound quality and punchier bass.
Thanks!
Thank you! I appreciate the support.
I'm only a little half Wade through this video and I just want to say I love it thank you
Thanks
Another excellent video! You should do one comparing power levels of parallel vs. series wiring using the same drivers, amplifier, and enclosure. This will debunk the term "box rise."
I'll say that to my idea list.
I'm not entirely sure how that debunks the term box rise, maybe something attached to the subject I'm unaware of? The term is definitely surrounded by misunderstandings, probably initially coined by people experimenting and crudely testing the power output in different enclosures. Many people, even today, don't even think about impedance curves, and they conflate a nominal impedance to the DC resistance. To me the term just means, that an enclosure affects the impedance curve. Some people probably incorrectly believe it's inherently bad.
@@mattwells1036 What I mean, is that the term "box rise" is inaccurate. It misleads people into thinking that it's solely caused by the enclosure. This may be true for a single subwoofer with a single voice coil, but with a single subwoofer and dual voice coils, the amount of rise will vary, depending on how that subwoofer's coils are wired. The delta between DC resistance of each configuration will be proportionally different. There are many variables to this that could be discussed. I'm just trying to compare basic configurations of "the average Joe."
Great explanation, thank you!
This was a firehose of information. Watch multiple times to get more out of it. All of what's in it are things I've learned over the decades. Good stuff.
Got to appreciate the work that goes into making these videos. Thanks Justin!
You are far too kind.
Fantastic, informative video. Another home run sir.
Hey, thanks for watching man!
Video probably won't do well since I dropped it in the middle of the day on a Monday, but that's okay. This is more about getting a resource out for people to use.
@@DIYAudioGuy they will catch it in your rotation, which due to the complexity of sub wiring, may be for the best.
I really love that you have that calculator on your site. Giving back to the community in such a way is so cool.
12:19 "When you pass a coil through a magnetic field you create voltage". 11:41 - That impedance spike @ 62hz is directly due to the voltage the speaker itself creates as it moves its coil back and forth in the magnetic field. Since the cone vibrates the most at the resonant frequency, it creates the most back emf (electromotive force - voltage) back towards the amplifier. That measures as increases resistance to current flow therefore increased impedance. When you put that driver in a box that impedance curve will change. Anywhere on that new curve you see an impedance minimum the cone hardly moves back and forth (although it is sucking lots of power and pushing hard) and it's the boxes/ports/chambers/horns resonance that does most of the work. Anywhere on that curve you see an impedance maximum, the cone is moving like crazy doing all the work and the boxes/ports/chambers/horns are not resonating much.
Cool stuff.
I always paralleled mine back in the day. Dropped them to 2 ohms. Of course you have to an amp that can handle 2 ohm stable. I burned one amp up because of that. Lesson learned. Lol
That's an important point to remember. Hopefully I made that clear in the video.
@DIYAudioGuy wasn't able to view the entire vid unfortunately. I had other things I had to attend to. I'll pick it up later.
Excellent explanation. Ive never been able to communicate it quite so concisely.
Thanks for watching.
Thanks I was about to parallel my sub to 2ohm but my amp is @4ohm voice coil.
Great vid! 🎉 was hoping you woulda covered how best to connect a dvc to a mono amp with 2 speaker outputs. (Connect wires at sub? Or connect seperate wires from each mono output to each VC ) 🎉
I'll have to add that to my list of video ideas.
If you have a mono amp with outputs for 2 speakers, its not a mono amp. Its a bridged stereo amp. So, if I'm reading your post correctly and you have a bridged amp, you need to be careful. Bridging a stereo amp is very hard on it. When you connect a speaker to a bridged amp, it shows the amp half its rating in ohms. For example, if you have a 4 ohm speaker, that exact same speaker is 2 ohms if you connect it to a bridged amp. You should only bridge an amp if you have to. Its best just to use it in stereo mode.
@@052RClots of mono amps have dual outputs.
Would there be a noticable difference running 1 ohm vs 2 ohms as I am now ??...2 ddx10d4 on a taramps smart 3k wired 2 ohms...I hit 145 now....thanks for any help....and love the page !! 👊
8x 8in DVC 4ohm subs. wire each in series, then parallel pairs to the 1 ohm amp. easy BBeassy!!
That is a feature that I wanted to include in the calculator. I got caught in one too many if then or else loops. I got to the point where I needed to stop cutting bait and go fishing so I went ahead and launched the web page. I'll circle back to that feature at some point in the future.
did you really say that it doesn't matter if you wire a single 2 ohm dual coil sub in series or parallel because they both will give you 1 ohm? wow that's gonna screw somebody up...
It will destroy the amp
He is talking about wiring in series and parallel at the same time. I have done it successfully on home theatre speakers. Only using matched impedance speakers. This type of wiring is a must when running multiple speakers of one channel.
I'll have to clarify that. It's an issue with the calculator. If you only have one voice coil, it doesn't matter if you select series or parallel wiring because the calculator will give you the same result in either situation.
Likewise, if you only have one subwoofer, there's no other subwoofer to wire it too. So series versus parallel will not affect the calculation.
@@stuartwinter2758 One time with a nice home stereo amp I wired 2 4 ohm speakers together on parallel for each channel. Didn't realize this was loading 2 ohms on each channel and not 4. It sounded great. The amp only lasted a few months before it burned itself out. Shame
@@connormason7907 They don't realize you don't get more power that way. You're just forcing the amp to work twice as hard. They think if an amp is rated for 1 or 2 ohms, you should try wire the system to get as close to that as possible. Its insane. If the speaker is easier to drive, you don't need as much power. In one ear and out the other.
Very cool thnxs
Glad you liked it!
THANKS, AUDIO GUY!!!😁👍
Speaker “impedance” , when measured with multimeter is only electrical resistance of the coil, not speaker while being driven. While under load, speaker impedance continuously changes. Nominal impedance is usually the lowest at a given frequency which is a very narrow. Most impedance is much higher. I’m using Hertz amps which are 2 ohm stable, yet I have them loaded to 1 ohm at zero negative impact, going now on 3rd year, running them just below 15 Vdc. at high volumes.
I have a 6 ohm JVC i would like to connect
some 8 ohm subwoofers . I know it would lower
the volume but would it take away from the beefiness
of the bass ?
I tried making a dual 15" subwoofer setup with a 16" cube. Tested in parallel, and it was horrible. Tested in series, things sounded better, because 8Ohm x 2 was easier on the amp than 8Ohm/2... BUT, the woofers were arm wrestling with the subwoofer box air mass at high amplitudes. 🤦 So, I flipped polarity of one speaker in series, so the excursion phases are opposite, while still making the same sound frequency. This way, the second subwoofer makes omnidirectional bass, and the front-facing sub reinforces the sound by lowering the distortion and air mass/volume displaced from the box and increasing the amplitude of the sound made. Basically, it's an air-coupled, dual-mass woofer, in an absurdly small box, but it works great
Here's a more likely explanation, you had the polarity flipped on one of the subwoofers when you initially connected them and then corrected the problem when you rewired.
ua-cam.com/video/2hf_dymCBMY/v-deo.htmlsi=LdtiTJsaACCyT1hp
I know this comment probably comes off as a little bit snarky, it's legitimately not.
@DIYAudioGuy I'm not a newbie at this... I can follow the terminals of both speakers, and know how things were set up. I also explained why I did the polarity flip for one woofer... Box was super small, and during each phase of excursion, they were trying to arm wrestle, as the air in the box was resisting their efforts at displacing and replacing the volume of the cabinet. Now they work Together, since the travel of one subwoofer is complimented by inverse travel of the other. Before, both pushed out at same time, then in at the same time, and the low air cabinet volume was causing massive distortion from air coupling. I believe if they were 12"s like the original, it would work fine in series or parallel, but two 15"s in same polarity phase shove enough air to make the whole cabinet pressure/vac levels interfere with the subwoofers. Used to have it turned down super low to prevent distortion and audio clipping, but now it runs fine up to super high vol level, and the clarity of bass notes at longer distances impressed me.
Numbers💥 got it
Estou ouvindo o audio do Video em PORTUGUES 😂 que legau que legau
It is a new feature added by UA-cam to automatically dub in several of the most popular languages..
I know based upon physics a skar SVR xmax is suppose to take down a kicker compR but is there anything that going with a name brand like fosgate P2, kicker or mtx 5512-44…
Things we can’t generally know off their box.
Kicker has better customer support, I can't say anything about the other brands. I have never used them.
Man you rock 😊
Thanks for watching.
DIY guy is a genius!!!!
You are too kind.
I just started watching the video, BUT I still ask this - can I use two identical lower-power amplifiers to power a dual-voicecoil woofer assuming I balanced the amplifiers with the multimeter before that with same input and frequency?
do it at your own risk...but theoretically...yes...you could do that? Thats basically what an amplifier is, a bunch of stacked small amplifying circuts building power each stage(in fact that's what "bridging" an amp is-you're just tying the left and right channels together). But the issue would be matching the waveforms, if they arent really close to being in phase (matching each other) they would just fight against the other and cause a lot of heat/distortion/possible damage. Again, do this at your own risk....but i dont think you would hurt anything trying it-maybe at a low volume at first. Make sure to use the same input and keep the levels matched. Try one then add the second and see if it works. Keep feeling the magnet to see if its getting hot. Again, I'm NOT saying its a great idea, but it is interesting. Personally id use the smaller amps for some door speakers or something and get a bigger amp for the subs. Amps are cheap as hell now. But i understand if you just don't have the cash and wanna try some science. But it depends how much the sub and amps cost, if you got them dirt cheap then yolo (ps, if you do try this-come back and tell me if it worked. Im curious too). Btw, have you tried just one amp? It might be loud enough on its on. People get caught up in big numbers but ive seen small amps rattle a car. Maybe hook one amp to the speaker in parallel and just see if its good enough
Yes, you would need to match the voltage and the phase. It's something that can be done but it's not something I would recommend. The juice is just not worth the squeeze.
@@DIYAudioGuy well I have two identical 2-ohm capable amplifiers, but they cannot do 1-ohm. the woofers I use are all dual 2-ohm voicecoil versions so I figured for home use I could utilize these amps.
bought these few years ago brand new and now they have almost no market value so I thought I can give them a new purpose with active cooling and all that as I feel my current 150W 4ohm plate amp is not enough any more lol
@vahvelpoiss in order to avoid the possibility of blowing stuff up, make sure the amps can be linked or the industry term strapping. You still have to follow the limitations of the amps as well ie if they are 2ohm stable each then you can't put a dual 1ohm on them . For about a year I ran a single 12 diamond audio da1d2 on two kicker sx1250.1 since the sub was a dual 2 and the amps were made for 1ohm I wasn't even stressing the amps and the signal was so clean I could lay into the 300w rms all I wanted . Wish I still had that setup . Was in a crx and was louder than guys with 4 15s . I think I remember it hit 143db ? Dumb loud
@@mathias4891 these arent supporting any linking. newer models from same manufacturer, like the one I have in car does actually have a linking support.
I just thought to throw together a cheap amp rack for a home audio sub build with two amps. I have a 300W 12V power supply and two dual-channel amps that do 180W @ 4ohm bridged, or 2x90W at 2ohm.
1:00 cat = automatic like from me
She likes to be in the middle of everything.
1/4 ohm load is where its at!!
Zero ohms dude!!! 😁
@rocknrolljesus3197 ha!!! Right on!
Back in the day there were companies selling quarter ohm stable amplifiers. These were commonly referred to as cheater amps because the car audio contest based their various classes on the manufacturer's 4 ohm power rating.
Dc can produce much trough switch andvphase controlers and this used to be a way amps worked but people do talk on it much but yes dc can should you be send a amp to clipping to the point it produces dc power no it wasnt designed to do so but a newer amp that dose this kinda is the kicker warehouse 10k amp is had a dc output for each coik of a sub and you had to wire one coil to each input and it would switch between coils in push pull coil 1 push coil 2 pull
Only thing you mention that made me scratch my head was when you said (paraphrased) that by going from 8ohms to 4 ohms you often double your amps power thus giving you more power and a louder output. Correct me if I am wrong but dropping from 8ohm to 4 ohm (or 4 to 2 or 2 to 1) has a 3 db loss of sensitivity so while you do gain more power, the speaker is less sensitive so you do not increase output.
I've never heard that before. Where did you get that information? You might find this video interesting. ua-cam.com/video/4kDxUcGCe8M/v-deo.htmlsi=Xb5nEFPqpJBZ0OLe
@@DIYAudioGuy Also this guys video made me realize I am old because I knew about speaker sensitivity before 25 years ago which he keeps stressing.
If you're working with "traditional" amp design with fixed voltage rails of some amount, and that defines your FTC 8 ohm RMS power limit, while the power supply is capable of double the current an 8 ohm load requires, then in theory changing to a 4 ohm load still operates at that rails based voltage, but doubles the current (not really due to ESR), and in turn doubles the power.
Bridge mode in effect also halves the impedance load per side, while summing two out of phase sides.
If an amp is optimized for higher or lower impedances, the same relationships could exist in a 32 ohm or 1 ohm system.
Prior to cheap DC-DC converters, lower impedance for a mobile system limited by battery voltage would raise potential power output, but that's how a 4-5 watt rated amp would actually output 1 watt if the alternator wasn't running. Bridge mode amps kicked that up to around 10 watts, while anything automotive about that requires DC-DC converters.
Speaker sensitivity is electromechanical systems design, and overlaps enclosure designs. That's around 33% for an optimal loading compression driver (higher has uncontrolled distortion issues), whereas many home stereo speakers operate in the 0.5% electrical power to acoustic energy transfer range.
That's where precise and careful use of language is important, to distinguish system overall function and elements contributing to that.
Note, many newer amps use digital waveform synthesis and flters, and some use variable voltage rails to limit thermal loads when higher isn't needed for full potential output power. That can become a single ended line rectified supply with no power transformer, and a microprocessor driven smart DC-DC converter with a comparatively small and light toroid for line safety isolation, feeding MOSFET amp output drivers.
Wire a dvc sub in series as it doubles the BL (hits harder, more control). Wiring a dvc in parallel you make the sub sloppy by cutting the BL in half and you kill the damping factor.
i really, really need to pick up a DATS for the audio tool kit
I'll make sure to add a link to the video description. If you buy it from Parts Express, use the code DIY5 for a discount.
super informative video, god ting i know what all the tings are called, because even i had too jump back too get what you ware saying.
Slowe down, easy on the 15 different examples. Its easy too understand when we know evey name of every part..
What was seies vs paralell? what was a voice... dual 4 .. 2... before or after wiered... in what configuration.
But i don't DO youtube, i only watch.. so ho am I too complain..
Noted.
Very easy ohm is resistance in wire like water in a pipe. The more resistance the harder the water gets through the pipe.
Yes. Lowering the resistance is like using a bigger pipe.
Voltage in that model is like pressure, current like flow rate.
So i need to weld all the red 2ohm wires parallel from the black 4ohm wires to level the impedance load from the different inductions that power the wired piping inside my subs right?
I did not follow that.
@DIYAudioGuy Nevermind buddy I went wireless anyway.
@@d.natrop4495no wires on your speakers?? 😂
@rocknrolljesus3197 Yeah, everything runs on my cars wifi now. Also bridged my battery terminals and installed a 24K bi-quadruple shielded remote cable.
@d.natrop4495 bridged the positive post to the negative post? 😁
8:32 he is saying that the driver moving back and forth is what produces the sound , but it is incorrect .
If u hold the driver in your hand while in use , it doesn't make sound . It's the driver and it only moves , while in doing so , it moves air as a result . The sound is generated at the port opening when the air moves in and out , as well as the box will vibrate , resulting in additional frequencies that contribute to what we know as sound .
wrong. the driver is what produces the sound moving back and forth. the box and the hole amplify it. the more you know
So if it was a sealed cabinet your speaker would produce NO SOUND. 😂🤣😂😂🤣
I've got a ton of videos describing how all this works. Why don't you give a couple of them a look? ua-cam.com/play/PL3Aot9dMXzXZ21MXAzvirExu0sfsWWSHT.html&si=iYfopWva6hvtncRx
Dig key calculator works great and you can add multiple resistance. Bud you have said multiple times now that your calculator will give you the same in parallel or series. I hope your just miss saying it.
?
On your calculator explanation lol. You kept saying it didn't matter it would come out the same! I hoped you just miss spoke there bud lol
@@davidschreckengost7959 If you have a single coil and a single subwoofer and you choose parallel you will get the same result as if you choose series since there is no second thing to wire it to.
@DIYAudioGuy oooo OK gotcha 👍
ABSOLUTELY STUNNING CONTENT...
LIKED..... ✔️
SUBSCRIBED..... ✔️
SHARED....... ✔️
VERY much RESPECT.......... ✔️
You are too kind.
What are some good 12inch shallow mount subs that will bang in my single cab for a reasonable price for the power I want something good plan on running d4s jp8
Sd4 10s worked for me in my extended cab downfiring
The really good shallow mounts are expensive: howl.link/nx4f6156piptc and howl.link/qmswj5fdwzn9i are probably the best.
Wāvtech thinPRO 12
Pioneer were considered the best shallow subs in their price bracket for a fair bit.
I've used and installed a heap in all different sizes and have found them to be very good quality and if mounted in a decent box they play about as low and loud as anything else in that price bracket.
I really can't fault them to be honest.
Id love to see a comparison between some of the common shallow subs as where i am most people don't want or (more commonly because they drive mid size utes (pick up trucks)) can't fit a giant box in their car but do want more than a factory system can provide.
Do it dude!!!
Shallow mount shoot out!!!!!
And maybe box design to maximise volume utilising odd areas of the vehicle.
Always a fun project!!
Love your work @DIYAudioGuy you're breeding a new generation of bassheads and we need them to keep the boombap alive!!!!
Is there a difference in sound quality between 1 ohm and 2 ohm ?
yup likely, to a varying degree. you get better quality sound with strong amps keeping them in 3-4 ohm. better for the longevity of your gear, efficiency and safer too
There are people who claim that as the resistance lowers the sound quality decreases because the amplifier damping factor will decrease as the resistance decreases. Most people in that camp are willing to die on that Hill.
I am in the other camp. I don't think it makes any difference. I should probably make a video explaining my reasoning.
Yes, there is a difference in the quality of the sound reproduced. Most people do not look at, care about, nor understand damping and how that correlates into the scope of things. As you decrease the damping, you begin to decrease what's commonly referred to as "Cone control" as well, this is only one aspect of things though. Think of it like this: your car has a strut assembly, which is basically a shock and a coil spring. They work simultaneously to provide stability and control. As the shock(damper) begins to degrade, the vehicle becomes more bouncy as in a floating effect, as it starts relying upon the coil spring and then the suspension becomes much less stable. As you lower the ohm load, you decrease the damping. But, is always a big debate.
@@Chuck_Sanders just a rough adwise id usually give to people new to this. the cheaper/worse amp, the more important it is to stay at around 4 ohms. again safety, longevity and sq
@@DIYAudioGuy would be interesting if you at some point more or less.. could measure distortion etc, and also your subjective opinion on sub sound pressure and sound quality 1 vs 2 vs 4ohm loads. also I think guys maybe underestimate how hot amps and cables can be, and power lost when pushing those large watt numbers with cables not up to the task
Which connection is much better for more bass deep bass series or parallel
If by depth you mean playing low frequencies, then it will have no impact on the depth of the bass. The music does not care how you wire the subwoofers.
What most people do is select subwoofers so that they can wire them down to 1 ohm and then use a 1 ohms stable amplifier to get more power.
This is a difficult set of topics to address at an introductory level, as it really requires some physics, math, and engineering to grasp vector sums of complex reactive circuits, motor-generator systems, and practical circuit design versus theory.
On one simple issue, pushing the speaker coil across the static magnetic poles generates current, not voltage, though that in turn may be seen as resulting in voltage across certain elements.
The whole idea of multi-voice coil sub's is marketing hucksterism, that should simply be avoided for competent audio engineering of good systems.
Ideally instead a single larger sub and matched amp would get a line level mix fed into a single channel power amp and voice coil, and driver and power level and enclosure matched to the space. That should not exist in normal cars, while owning 500 acres of land is too little to contain or dissipate some audio systems with good low end capabilities, and respect neighbors.
Generally power amps in the 1500-1800 watt range are useful, as they hit limits based on AC supply circuit size, and match well to larger bass drivers now in commercial production.
Damping factor and thermal designs as well as protection circuits and design to source or sink reactive loads, are all important factors, where generally parallel drivers should be limited, and series drivers avoided. A good pro grade amp will feed a 1 ohm or 200 ohm load on one channel while shorted with a heavy metal rod across railroad ties wired to its other output. That costs money to design, and most consumer toys will self destruct first.
Most amps are designed for an optimal load impedance, based on damping factor, complex impedance variations, thermal factors, power supply design and rails limits on voltage or current, weight, distortion, protection circuits, etc. Often a bridge mode will deliver 3 times and not the waveform and Ohm's Law theory 4 times single channel power, because of ESR in those lumped systems (equivalent series resistance). Bridge mode is sort of like halving load Z per side, and summing two amp sides.
Large modern MOSFETs handle such factors far better than older bipolar transistor outputs.
The two main things missing from this video, are disclaimers that the real world engineering needs basic STEM background as a precursor to the higher levels of how things really work, AND that lots of consumer products are sold that are really hucksterisn for buyers lacking good audio engineering understanding, and are really better to not buy, not install, and not recommend, than to bother calculating superficial theory of workable load impedances, versus just avoid that crap and do any channel mixes or band filters at line level, and feed that to single amps and normal single voice coil drivers, that won't have pairs of magnetic high energy fields competing.
You could spend years studying the fine points of AC impedance.
@DIYAudioGuy Nah, I'm an older engineer, and I've already done that. That's why I both appreciate this effort to teach complex topics in simple form, and despise sloppy language use that needs to be corrected later for victims, merged with implicit promotion of consumer scam products that create more problems than they solve, while trying to trick the engineering illiterate into buying more expensive and less functional products than can better address the same system goals.
I've done AM directional antenna system engineering, and helped Glen Clark develop vector sums based software that considered complex impedance relationships from interactions of towers and earth impedance with its weather and soil variants, along with complex audio processing systems, and contributing to a panel on MPEG-1 Layer 3 development. Speaker related complex impedance and related art and science issues are simple, by comparison.
But still pretty complex, in ways words and pictures cannot fully express.
How do I get you to help me tune my box? I have the size of the box, subs, and amp.. just need help with size/legnth of ports
I'm not taking on any enclosure design clients at the moment.
I'm the opposite: I seek higher impedance (8ohm and above) speakers for the home at least. Certifiably more crankable! Low impedance speakers (2-4ohms) are deafeningly loud with the volume knob set at 1/10!
Cool.
If my subwoofer has sticker on the motor saying "3000w 2x2ohm" Then it will take 3000w, but store page says 1500rms, i have 1500w amplifier but will i buy amp that can do constant 3000w to get everything out of my speaker?
Yes 3k watts amp
@@62dobie Also my shitty amp only gets to 31v at output when measured with multimeter
3000w will be peak power, not performance. Youll usually find that the 3000w peak will only be at a certain frequency band meaning not the full frequency range you set it to or want to play at. Look at the subwoofer manufacturers graphs for more information.
No idea, that label is a little confusing. I would assume 3000 w total power. But not many subwoofers can take that kind of power.
And what about series parralell
You can use the calculator to do the math, that's what it's there for.
I would run 2 ohms and below if I had a high end amp which typically has a very high dampening factor. I will just stick to 4 ohms since i can't afford those amps.
I wonder how much that matters? Unfortunately the equipment needed to test it is $$$$$$$.
This is the first post that actually makes sense. Only in car audio would someone think a 2 ohm load is better than a 4 ohm load.
Its not about more bass, but about the right amount
What if more is the right amount?🤨
@DIYAudioGuy then its perfect
👌🏼
👍
You should really show how resistance is calculated with like 3 resistors, seeing symbols like that won't make sense to many. Showing a sum and inverse sum of inverses would give viewers a better understanding.
ua-cam.com/video/_Jl-d_VvJSs/v-deo.htmlsi=G2rKd8NOYR48h22F
while the formula for impedence is not technically ohm's law....it is very similar (just with allowances for reactance, ie capacitance etc.). Its been 25 yrs since i took electronics but even in class we used the name pretty much interchangeably-at least early on until we got to trigonometry and wave designs, so people could be forgiven for calling it ohm's law
People call things by the wrong name all the time. Surprisingly people are still able to communicate.
@@DIYAudioGuy Ok, fair point 😂
orrrr.. as another option, save space and money and find a properly sensitive driver that gives you the right output level without mucking with all this. dump it into a properly tuned transmission line enclosure and decimate.
the one for my jetta is only a bit bigger than the regular sealed box (15in tall, ~18d, 26w. which is only 8ish wider than the sealed box that was in there previously), using a 12 inch lord of bass LBX12, and still fits nicely into the trunk without eating every inch of the space. its limited, for obvious reasons, but i can still fit various emergency supplies and what not in there.
and with the right driver, and actually tuning the box, the enclosure _doesn't_ need to be some super heavy monster you have to have a large suv to run it in. (yay for winisd and online TL box calculators)
even running it at 4ohms (i'm not pushing my amp that hard, for what should be obvious reasons, since its a 5 channel that also drives my fronts and rears), it has moooorrrrree than enough output to satisfy me. and maybe break a window if i'm not careful.
for anyone curious, the calculator is "Dual Fold On-Axis Transmission Line Enclosure Calculator" on dbxdynamixaudio's website, since i can't link. they used to do custom plans for boxes for a small fee, but the website is partially broken these days, so who knows whats going on there. the calculator page still works fine, but it is an embedded excel style table. and you need to know some driver specs. with some fiddling of the max dimensions you can stuff one into a lot of spaces (mind being able to get it into a trunk or whatever when designing!)
and it even works great for home theater sub boxes if you have the space.
Sounds like fun!
@@DIYAudioGuy its fooookin greaaat, man ;)
done right, a good TL box hits harder, and louder. the main problem is trying to stuff a driver that needs a larger box into one and thinking its going to come out reasonable, since you need not only the volume, but the 'port' as well, which you fold twice. you can fudge the 'box' volume, but the port has to be as close to exact as possible to get the sound to come out right. thankfully, the calculator i mentioned gives you the exact board sizes and how many, so almost all of the planning is done for you.
if you're bored one of these days and want to (and haven't), i can fully recommend playing around if you're got a spare driver with relatively small box reqs for the ported spec.
@0:56 OMG STOP! my vertigo just went off.......thanks for nothing
Not me bud I got ohms law down pat lol
Good!
Subwoofer ALPINE SBG-1244BP = 800W 4Ω 250 RMS + Amplifier Hertz DIECI POWER DP 1.500 =1180W 4Ω 350RMS = GAIN ? HELP
ua-cam.com/video/MBcGOoRJ4Ro/v-deo.htmlsi=qgakOsiTDSw7ZQHk
Are you sure that if you wire a single dual 2 ohm woofer in series it doesnt give you 4 ohms? Because I have done it both ways and there is a very distinct difference in volume from the woofer but that might just be because its a kicker subwoofer. 😂
If you wire a pair of 2 ohm resistors in series you get 4 ohms.
@DIYAudioGuy lol
yea, at one point in the video he said it "doesn't matter matter if we choose parallel or series wiring, its going to give us the same answer...1 ohm". That was confusing (and sounded incorrect) but i think he meant as far as the calculator was concerned since it was a single sub? It could have been worded better. But yes, parallel drops impedance, series increases it. Think of the old "water flow" theory. If you lay 2 pipes in parallel "=" (next to each other) it makes it twice as easy to flow, ie less impedance. If you put the pipes in series "- -" it has to go twice as far and it makes it twice as hard to flow through, more impedance. (i hope i said that clearly)
You're providing good, factual information but I don't believe that more power equals more bass. I build a custom home theater enclosure with a hand built driver that as roughly 5 feet tall, 18 feet wide, and 3 feet deep. The driver sits inside a sealed enclosure and blows through a folded horn. It is capable of reaching 170db at 35 hz in a gymnasium with the mic 20 feet away from the horn. The voice coil reads @ 5.2 Ohms and it is fed by a 500 watt plalte amp, clamped, it's using 160-180W of the amps power. The enclosure lets the driver play flat from 28Hz to 180Hz with little to no variation in volume as the frecquency changes. I spent 11 years of my life perfecting these things. Your enclosure is the most important part of what you want to accomplish, next is your electrical system, third is your amplifier, and last are your drivers. Just my 1.7 cents.
Yes, and what you'll notice is that when you have everything turned down you don't have a lot of bass, but when you turn it up you get more bass.
@@DIYAudioGuy 100%. I compete in SPL and SQL car audio competition and always have a good laugh when the guy who has more money than knowledge about how the equipment works and they're pushing 50Kw through their system or spent 100K on the most ridiculously expensive gear they could buy only to lose to the guys that do understand what is happening.
How can I run 4 8ohn mid-range speakers and 44ohm tweeters to one four channel amp without damage to amp?
If you're just talking about wiring them up somehow or another, I made a calculator for that, I even made entire UA-cam video showing off the calculator.
Beyond that, you'll need crossovers, not sure what you want to do there. Are you planning on using the crossover that's on the amp or a DSP? Or do you plan on using a passive crossover network?
Or, just buy another amp for tweeters.
I don't think your 1-Ohm schematic is correct. You are showing a 2-Ohm load in series with a 2-Ohm load, which is 4-Ohms bridged. In order for it to be 1-Ohm, there would have to be a separate lead going to the second sub from the same amp terminal.
You are incorrect.
I tried to get more Bass, but I don't have that many subwoofers
You can never have to many subwoofers.
Ohms law? E over I times R.
Different sources use different notation, and of course you can always rearrange the formula any way you like with a little bit of algebra.
i must be more lost then i thought because im not even sure what this guy is trying to explain...what was the point of this and how am i getting any information that tells me how to make more bass? this was like listening technical data sheet
ua-cam.com/video/_Jl-d_VvJSs/v-deo.htmlsi=_okRotvVa4ueadjS
It can be confusing when your not familiar with car audio and wiring subs with amps, but essentially he was trying to explain the importance of the impedance of amps and speakers. Matching the impedance of your amp to your sub/subs is important to get the most power out of your system, and the quality of the sound you get. Wiring the subs differently will get different results. Wiring them wrong will either overwork your amp, your subs, or basically change the performance of them both. I know this isn't an explanation of how to wire your set up, but hopefully that helps you understand what this video explains. If you are looking for specific instructions for the equipment you have, you can either reach out to the manufacturer or refer to the instructions (if you have instructions) to get specifics on your set up. The impedance is important, and you really will want to choose the correct wiring set up (on the voice coil/coils terminals) for the subs you are using along with the amps capabilities. Wiring them wrong can make them sound less them desirable, it can make your amp overheat, or blow the speakers prematurely.
No cat 😢
Single dual 2 ohm ? I think your confused
Duh!
It might be obvious to you, but there's not a day that goes by where I don't see somebody asking this question online. Now those people that don't know have a tool they can use, hopefully this video makes someone's life a little bit better or at least a little bit easier.
@@DIYAudioGuy I get it, respects!
I dont understand it why do people want it this loud its like you are trying to force others to hear it
Thats the point.
Did it ever occur to anyone that a dead short is 0 ohms? These 1 and 2 ohm loads that everyone is trying to achieve is just a slight step away from disconnecting your speaker cables and touching them together. How can that possibly be a good thing?
When you decrease ohms, you get more power? No, jackass. If you want more power you buy a bigger amplifier. When you get "more power" by lowering resistance, you're not really getting more power, you're just making your amp work twice as hard to drive the same speaker. When a power amp is rated at 1 or 2 ohms, its called a worst case scenario. You're not supposed try and wire everything to get as close as possible. That's what a 16 year old kid would do. If you have a speaker that's easy to drive, you don't need all that power to begin with.
Watch the video again, you missed the last half of it.
@@DIYAudioGuy No I didn't.