Makita 18V LXT LI‑Ion Cordless Circular Saw Repair
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2020
- Makita Circular saw wont run. I show you how to repair a common problem, You decide if you should replace it or repair it.
The Part is only $20
Makita Controller, BSS611 MK-620259-9
Replaces MK-620086-4
List Price: $23.56
Find it here:
www.ereplacementparts.com/con...
or here:
www.partswarehouse.com/Makita...
Makita circular saw description:
The Makita 18V LXT® Lithium-Ion Cordless 6-1/2” Circular Saw delivers cordless cutting power to the job site. The heavy-gauge, precision machined base is engineered for smooth, accurate cutting and added durability in harsh job site conditions.
It’s part of Makita’s expanding 18V Lithium-Ion series, the world’s largest cordless tool line-up powered by an 18V Lithium-Ion slide-style battery. Makita 18V Lithium-Ion batteries have the fastest charge times in their categories, so they spend more time working and less time sitting on the charger.
For improved tool performance and extended battery life, Makita created Star Protection Computer Controls™. Star Protection is communication technology that allows the Star Protection-equipped tool and battery to exchange data in real time and monitor conditions during use to protect against overloading, over-discharging and overheating. For increased versatility, the tool can also be powered by Makita 18V LXT® and Compact Lithium-Ion batteries with the star symbol on the battery indicating Star Protection inside.
Makita BSS611Z Saw:
www.makitatools.com/products/...
Makita Saw Break down:
cdn.makitatools.com/apps/cms/...
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Disclaimer: This video is for entertainment purposes only, UA-cam, edtheoldtechguy and any affiliates are not responsible for any damage, injury, or loss of any kind that may result from following this tutorial. Attempt this at your own risk. edtheoldtechguy assumes no liability or guarantee of any kind. - Наука та технологія
Thank you for the video! Bypassed the controller and the saw works great. For those of you asking about the other wires going to the controller, don't mess with them. All you have to do is cut the black wires and connect them. You are bypassing the controller by doing this step.
Well done Ed you are 100 percent right Smaller channels are having it tough !! thanks for all your support keep making those good videos!!!!!
I've repaired quite a few of these and I'll let you in to a secret. You can remove the controller and bypass it completely and the saw will work just fine! The older models didn't have them and they worked just fine (They're almost identical inside apart from the controller) and are perfectly safe. If they weren't they'd be a recall. The controller is only there to prevent possible damage to the battery from overheating, the problem is that the controller now overheats and is damaged instead.
How do you do this ? Can you bypass on 110v - just cut it out and connect the 2 chunky wires together ?
I’d like to know more. I’ve searched fruitlessly online and haven’t found any information about how to do this fix.
Thanks for the tip , straight bypass and it works great , stop working for me mid project and I maybe used it 5or 6 times .
Will you let us know how you did it?
Appreciate the insight on the bypass !!!! snipped both blacks on the control board, taped & tucked em. connected the black wire from the battery to the black wire from the motor... Badda Boom badda bing !!!!
Loved the video! I had a Mikata lying around in the garage for a while and thought it would be a great project to fix. Thank you for showing us the intricacies and explaining the different parts and wiring in the circular saw. It helped a lot.
Very Welcome! Please consider watchign a few more videos and if it makes sense for your watching needs consider subscribing
Thanks for video. I came very close to buying a new saw til i watched this! I also tried the 'black to black bypass' described in the comments. When the saw worked, i knew it was just the board that was dead. If only everything in life was so simple and satisfying to put right!! Thanks everyone.
I am so happy we were able to help! This is what my channel and community is all about helping people. Please check out the rest of my content and if it makes sense please subscribe.
Thank you mate! She's a worker now. The lights sticks on now but I just need to press the trigger button down that's all. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you!
You've helped me fix my saw and fix my friends old one too so thanks buddy your a legend!
I am so happy I could help. That's all my channel has been about. Please feel free to check out more of my videos and if the content fits your needs subscribe it would greatly help me.
Cheers pal, this is exactly what is wrong with mine, ordered the new controller, and has probably saved me £50-£70 getting it repaired in shop, so appreciate the video fella 👌
I am happy to help! Thank you for watching.
Any chance you do a repairing video of the, bigger, corded, Mikita Circular saw? Got one in a second hand bundle deal, and when started it, and kept it running more then a second like when tried it, when buying it, it sparked quite a bit then stoped working and I could smell the burn, so yeah I would like to try fix it too if possible, and ur last video was on point. Thanks either way bud👍
Really nice work and thorough step-by-step repair. Thank you for sharing!!!
You are welcome!
Legend thankyou for this video and part number, i managed to replace it, 20mins later, up and working again! 🍻
Excellent Thank you! Please feel free to watch a few more videos and if it makes sense for ya consider subscribing
You the Man Ed Appreciate ya !!!!Excellent Presentation... All the right information, easy to understand & follow.. Thank You. i did opt for the bypass i needed quick & cheap. total cost (time of video +10minutes).. watched learned fixed 💪
WoW thank you, 😊 I am truly humbled. Glad I could help
Surprised the part was that cheap, I will be book marking the parts warehouse web site, thanks for posting.
That's what I'm here for bro. I just want to help and have fun doing it. How's your channel coming along?
Just cut the two black wires coming out of the controller and tie connect them together. This bypasses the controller and the saw works great. Thanks to the guy who suggested this.
Great suggestion but I like leaving things as I found them but will consider that for a video. Thanks for the info!
Did just that. Appreciate it. Works great 👍
Can u talk me through this
Hi, I have only one black wire coming out of the controller?
You make taking things apart look very easy!
Thanks!
Great video my saw was not working . this after watching your video and bam it worked perfectly.
I am so glad I could help! Thank you for watching and dropping a comment. Please check out my other content and if it interests you please consider subscribing. 🙏
Had the same symptoms with the saw of a friend of mine. Inside the controller a wire was soldered loose by the heat. Fixing by resoldering was easy
Awesome! Thanks for the comment and sharing, also thanks for subscribing!
Yes, very good vid. Keep pumping them out!
J thanks, bro! I am trying to give it my all
Thanks for the video! My saw is ready to work again! 👏🏼
Glad I could help!
Very cool. Now I really enjoy watching this type of video.
Thanks, Dale that's the kind of feedback I am looking for.
Very best fix video I have ever watched!
Wow! I am humbled thank you!
Thanks man, it worked out for me!
Thank you for the video appreciate it, why didn't you show that the Saw was working in the end after repairs?
Great video very well explained
Glad it helped
Good video, very handy to know
Tension spring on guard fall off can't find where hooks on. I see it hooks hole in the guard. But can't find where other end goes.
good job that was very helpful .thanks
Glad it helped
Thanks mate...if only I'd seen this a week ago, just paid $50 + $11 shipping ex Melbourne (to Sydney) ....about $47USD, would have been $27USD via the second link , or about $40USD via first one. I diagnosed it myself, did check the switch first. Still waiting on it, because this Melbourne parts dealer is probably getting it from one of the above. Google did not show the above links, even with detailed info, but somehow this video appeared on my recommendations this morning.
Got this from daughter's partner who is a tradie and he just dumps these when it fails, so I'll be asking him to send more tools my way.
Thank you brother! 😊 wait till you see my video next week. Please check out my other content and give me a chance to win your subscription.
@@edtheoldtechguy you got it:-)
Thanks a lot absolutely brilliant
Cheers from Gary
Question about brushes: when checking wear, do you need to look at both? Or do they typically wear evenly and looking at one side is enough? I have a Particle Generator at work I check twice/year and one side is really hard to get to. Would love to have that half hour/year added back to my life!
Great question! So the official answer from any manufacturer would be to check both as wear on the brushes is not perfectly even. See the brushes are spring loaded and those spring are not perfectly balanced to have the same tension on both sides. Some springs for many reasons have more or less tension. For this reason many times only one brush fails. Now for the DIY answer. Buy a set of brushes and duct tape them on the machine or place them next to it on the wall. Simply check the one that is easy to get too most of the time. Brushes don't fail often. The main reason I don't like brushes is the spark they create. In an environment where flamable gasses are around a tool like that could be deadly. Also brushes are very reliable but waste lots of energy. So every 3rd or 4th easy brush check, inspect both sides to be safe. If you can't have down time due to failure of the brushes tighten these time lines depending on how important it is for the unit to be up and running. Now if that is not an issue. Check only the easy one and rely on the brushes taped on the machine that are handy. Every time you inspect the easy one check to make sure the spare package with brushes is still there. Ordering and delivery of brushes is the longest lead time of the whole job. My 2¢
Thanks, does the control board die also on the brushless dhs680z model or does it tend to be more the switch with these?
Great question! I have not yet replaced a board on a brushless model but I would suspect it immediately. The switches used by Makita are usually high quality.
Hi Ed, thanks for the video it has given me the confidence to try fix mine. The saw doesn't work but the light does come on when the switch is pressed - is it most likely the controller rather than the switch? i've done the trouble shooting suggested in the video and it all looks good including the brushes..
In my experience its usually the controller
thank you very much. Good video
A little time and inexpensive parts and it’s as good as new👍
Chris thanks, buddy! Your view and comment mean so much to me and my little channel here. I'm just having fun here but I am also giving it my all.
Your the best. Thanks again
Thank you too!
Great video, thanks for the ff. when taking things apart. Shame the UK part is about £29 not $20usd
Man, I am sorry that sucks! They should have a cheaper counterpart in the UK. Unfortunately, I don't know of one. Love for our brothers across the pond!
Hi Gary I just looked on Ebay I can see for £17.35 here. I can also see the £29 ones
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174045451764?epid=1479211304&hash=item2885ead5f4:g:f0cAAOSwmt1gTmDL
Great video, saved me a ton of 💵
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much for this brilliant explanation. I have just done it all precisiely as you showed, and it was very easy BUT - when I went to run the saw it workled perfectly other than running reverse! I didn't swap the cables around in any way and followed your instructions to the letter.
Any ideas?
All the best
Richard
Thank you for the view and the comment. Please verify your cabling even if you are sure, we all make mistakes. Check that your blade is on correctly, clean and inspect brushes. I know it's rudimentary but please recheck those items.
@@edtheoldtechguy
Thanks Ed, you are as courteous as I am dumb!
I’d taken the blade off for ease and then fitted it back on the wrong way around.
Then I noticed the direction arrows on the body of the saw and hung my head in shame.
All the best, and thanks again for an incredibly useful video. Richard.
Cool vid Ed. 👍 Were you workin' it pretty hard when it popped and that's how you knew it wasn't the switch?
The switches are pretty robust. I should have ohmed and power tested it but knowing these units, the board usually over heats and with age that saw dust finds it's way in and causes insulation making it hotter for those boards.
In Holland it’s hard to find the controller
Is some one in GB who will send this over for me?
Hello Ed, nice video. Well explained.
n Belgium it seems difficult to get the controller. My controller is also dead. Did you ever try to bypass the controller and use a saw without it?.
I suppose the controller is only a battery-protection that cuts off under heavy load?
Great question. I have not thought of hacking it that way. Sounds like the makings of a great video. I will consider it. Thanks for the idea.
Very good video Sir! Just discovered this awhile ago. New Sub! Peace 👍👍👍😁✌🏻🇺🇸
Thank you SIr! More like this in the editing room, coming soon I promise. For now please enjoy my other subject matter Tools Tech DIY and sometimes comics! I hope there is more you will like.
Nice walk through Ed. I would have checked switch before guessing it was the board. Haha Is it common for those to go out?
Thanks, Grimm!! Experience has taught me that the Makita triggers are very well made and tough. The control boards die due to overheating so I end up replacing more boards that switches.
Great vid very infomative before seeing that id have binned the saw and bought a new one thing is are the boards easy to source
@@simonmatthews6652 If it is a major saw or tool company you shouldn't have much issue searching for the part. I love Makita because parts are easy to find. Start with Ereplacements.com
@@simonmatthews6652 Make sure to check your brushes and your other parts before getting a board too. Often though if it did not smoke and the brushes are good it comes down to the switch and the board.
The bolt on the blade is spinning on mine won’t loosen just keeps spinning saw runs fine just feels like the blade is not gripped properly and can’t get bolt off to change any ideas ?
Sorry for the late reply, There is a locking mechanism that stops the blade to remove it wit the provided Allen key. If this does not work due to the mechanism being broken then you will need to clamp the blade in a vise. Please do this without the battery installed and wear gloves. Feel free to email me edtheoldtechguy@yahoo.com maybe I can help further.
What do ya got for the adjustment lever too loose to tighten?!?!
Interesting let me see what kind of a video response I can do for you.
It’s great awesome work I just want to confirm Where did you buy the control board and how much is that ?👍👍
The Part is only $20
Makita Controller, BSS611 MK-620259-9
Replaces MK-620086-4
List Price: $23.56
Find it here:
www.ereplacementparts.com/controller-bss611-p-1860431.html?gclid=CjwKCAjw2uf2BRBpEiwA31VZj0BF7JjnHWYNR79zLMJSVjJUiw1XLvCu8IuhTyERLDN8t209pS8VrBoCwi4QAvD_BwE
or here:
www.partswarehouse.com/Makita-Controller-BSS611-620259-9-p/mk-620259-9.htm?Click=365719
I have all this information and more in the video description. I hope you are doing well and that I may have earned your subscription. Take care friend.
Why would my makita grinder keep burning the brushes and the brush holder any help please
Wow to many questions unanswered here. Is the grinder corded or cordless? Does it have any breaks on the switch cabling? Has it been dropped? It sounds to me as if to much power is being allowed to pass through it or it is over heating. If it all seems good I would take it apart, clean the armature and replace the brushes and holders along with switch and board. I would inspect for any burn spots or damage inside. Hope you figure it all out bro!
I have a similar circular saw, it works normally when the battery is fully inserted but the saw also runs on it's own without touching the switch when the battery is partially inserted. Have you heard of this problem before? Could you advise on what may be happening?
Strange it could be the switch or the control board. You can bypass the control board to see if it happens but your description is a bit vouge I would need to see the saw to dig into the issue more.
Great video - what does the controller actually do and how do you test to see if this is the problem ?
In laments terms, it measures the voltage of the battery and the motor. Ensuring that the battery will not overheat and the motor operates as it should. It is a safety device for the tool and you. You can technically by pass the part. Which if you wanted to add to your testing, will work. Just be very careful doing this incorrectly can hurt you and or the tool. Maybe someone smarter than I can add more info on how the controller operates and what it's full functions are. Heres how I diagnose to ensure that it is the controller. I inspect the motor for any burn spots or obvious failure, this includes bearings, inspect brushes for wear beyond the wear point, and ohm out the switch. Check for any obvious wire breaks. If all seems fine and knowing that the controller usually fails I replace it, This set of procedures has not let me down so far.
@@edtheoldtechguy can you explain how to bypass corectly? What to do with all wires?
What would happen if the. I put the yellow wire on the negative pole of the battery . Not the 3rd sence wire connector..
I honestly am not sure. I always follow the factory setup to ensure the tool operates as intended.
@@edtheoldtechguy ok no worries. Its just isnt the 3rd sence wire. Somehow conceted to the negative anyway as must get it power from somewear.. Just a thourt
That's decent vid, am getting new brushes but noticed a number on them. The bad ones say 432 but I can't find any like that online. Can you use different numbers like 430. Also, do you have to buy brushes with the two bent copper bits that clip in or can they be straight as most online seem to be straight. Thanks
The brushes for this saw can be found here: www.ereplacementparts.com/carbon-brush-set-p-7221.html
Always double check and research check your saw model and parts break down here. www.ereplacementparts.com/makita-bss611z-18v-lxt-lithiumion-cordless-61234-circular-saw-parts-c-97_98_101_40082.html
My channel and I are not affiliated E replacements or their products buy at your own risk. I can tell you though I use them all the time and have not had an issue at all.
What a legend
I like to know did the light work ?
Everything worked exactly as it did before. Not sure this model has a light in it. The newer brushless units may.
I wonder if you can repair mine. It stopped working and I dont know what to do with it.
Perhaps it is repairable but it would need to be inspected. My method is simple check brushes, electrical path, check controller, check motor and bearings
We’re did you get the replacements?
It is listed in the video description
"The Part is only $20
Makita Controller, BSS611 MK-620259-9
Replaces MK-620086-4
List Price: $23.56
Find it here:
www.ereplacementparts.com/con...
or here:
www.partswarehouse.com/Makita..."
Did you turn it on to see if it fixed the problem ?
Yes watch until the end I pull the trigger and vroom! It runs!
What is the little crimp thing called and are they a specific size
Also mine was burnt out is tha an indication of any other problems
They are called closed end splice connectors and I apologize but I don't recall the size. Simply buy a pack with a an assortment of sizes.
Brushes, overheating wear and tear. It all depends how hard you pushed the saw. Ensure you don't have any burnt spots on the spindle and test parts with a meter to ensure they still work. My experience with Makita is they will let out the smoke from time to time and you think they are dead but its a simple part replacement and they are back to work.
Sir My electric circular saw still working, but there something burning odor wherever i use, i stop using fear to deteriorate.😥
Unfortunately it doesn't sound good. Before you spend a lot of money check the brushes. These can burn up and smoke and even smell. Also check to see if you have any burn spots on the motor. Does the smell happen only when cutting or under load or when you just start it up or is it constantly smelling
Hey Ed, this is a really good cir saw, and it's blade left!! hahaha. It is lightweight, powerful for its size.
Sorry for the dumb question but...Is there a way to slow down the RPM a bit on it? (Model XSH03)
I don't know anything about electronics etc, but kinda hack...it has no load speed 5,000 RPM....and drop it down like 3,900 RPM ??
Thanks
Ever since I read your comment you have had me thinking. I don't see why a potentiometer of some type couldn't be added but it could cause strain on the motor and possibly burn it out. I will meditate on this and see if I make a video on this one day.
@@edtheoldtechguy thanks Ed
The XSS02Z runs at 3700 and they are only around $100
My saw runs but feels like there's an electric brake stuck on. Any ideas?
It could be multiple things, bad bearings, stuck brush, .... Is the blade on? Bent blade, Sorry but I would need more info to help.
Is good
I have the brushless model XSH03Z. The only part I see like this is the stactor unit (MK-629348-7) which is $125l). Ill just buy a new saw.
Brushless are very different to repair
I bought mine 3 months ago dont really use it , but yesterday when i was cutting some 2x4 it did the same thing doesnt turn on
Brushes are good
I hope you can find a fix.
07:34 *SHAME* on *Makita* !! They impurified their own saw intentionally..
10:37 *yeah* - very funny. You're living on 'easy street', buying yourself a brand new controller. Couldn't you repair the old one? *tzz.. tzz..*
No, seriously - all jokes aside: there are not many videos out there that explain things as thoroughly as you did. Great compliment.
Thank you!
My saw gets into a power on stuck mode. I have to pull the battery to stop the saw. Dangerous design that fails in to the power on mode.
wow scary. my suggestion is to test switch and if fine replace module as shown.
brushed motor tools are more robust and easily repairable if this saw were brushless motor it would be an expensive piece of junk.
Nice vid but you could have removed the battery first
Yup! You are right. I should have. It still got it fixed though LOL! Thank goodness.
nice vid but I'm not sure why you would want to save one of these crappy saws.....they are absolutely terrible by todays standards. the mak 36v worm drive is the only saw worth having out of their range
Thank you Sir. Some times they have sentimental value. A beloved loved one that use to use the saw and handed it down before they passed on is a situation that has brought me clients to fix some tools.
No one is going to do all of this...Just buy a new one
Many of us repair our own tools its fun and saves a lot of money and on top of that the enviroment. Makita is one of the very few brands that has a ton of replacement parts and 3rd party replacement parts. Nothing wrong with buying new but repairing a tool is fun and please note that some tools hold sentimental value after the loss of a loved one whom used it and loved it.
First here