How to change the oil on the RAM 2500 4 x 4 with Electronic Shift-On-The-Fly Transfer Case. This is a 2014 Laramie but procedure is good for all 2500's. from 2013 - 2019
Hey Marion, I just did my 2nd (60k) fluid change. I looked on UA-cam for a refresher and yours popped up. I remember it from my (30k) service. One little tip I stumbled upon that I thought I should share. When removing the skid plate, leave the right rear bolt loosely in place and the skid plate will rotate out of the way and rotate back when finished. Not a big time saver, but it was nice not having to line it all back up when laying under the truck. Thanks again for your videos. Always nice to watch them. 👍
Marion, I really like your channel. I also have a 2014 6.7 3500 Ram Truck. Did a lot of research on the lubricant for the 44-46 and 44-47 BW transfer case as Mopar has priced their oil out of sight. Spoke with the Amsoil rep and Amsoil now has one. It's part of their Signature Series and is priced around $21 per qt. Plus you can get it in their flexible squeeze bag which makes the filling very easy. Also, BG has now developed one and our Ram Dealer here in my town is now using it instead of the Mopar oil. Check it out as both companies produce top quality lubricants. I prefer the Amsoil and have had no issues. Thought this might help your viewers find something other than the WAY OVERPRICED Mopar oil.
Thank you for the fantastic information Marion! Pipe threads being tapered is something I had no knowledge about and I have to say you likely saved me hundreds in damage to my T-Case as I have a tendency to get carried away with torque.
Dr. Marion, followed your instruction and all went smoothly and efficiently. Thanks for assisting me in this procedure. The patient (2015 2500 Ram named "Bertha") is doing well.
Sir, just wanted to let you know I completed the change in my transfer case today (2015 2500). Your video was invaluable. I thank you so much for taking the time to put this info out. PS. My only mistake today was placing the oil pan too close to the drain -man that stuff comes shooting out!! Left 1/4 quart on the ground before I could move it!
I know im randomly asking but does anybody know of a way to log back into an Instagram account? I was dumb forgot my password. I love any help you can give me!
@Emerson Wilson Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm. I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
you're a smart man, the book is a guideline, nothing can replace common sense. i just subcribed and just finished my rear diff fluid change on my 2012 ram 2500 with the HEMI. ( i watched that video too) its my first time owning a ram. great videos thank you
I feel like a regular fixture on this wonderful site! (lol) This comment is a bit off subject, but transfer case related. Last week while pulling our 35' travel trailer, we stopped in Kingman AZ for one night on our way to Grand Canyon. Just when we were exiting I-40 we heard a horrible grinding sound. Almost sounded like we were dragging something under the truck. We stopped (so did noise) on the off ramp and warning light was on the dash that read "service 4x4 system". I put the truck in neutral and rolled slowly forward on the downhill slope. The noise was gone and so was the light. All seemed normal again, so we continued another 2 miles on the surface road to the KOA in town. Our pull-through space was gravel, so I took the opportunity to move it in and out of 4x4, and 4x4 low. No problem. With no internet and being late on Saturday, I called my brother to do a Google search. What he found is that the truck most likely tried to go into 4x4 low range all on its own, at 45mph!! (we weren't the first ones to experience this, others with catastrophic results) I pulled the 10-amp fuse that controls the transfer case servo motor and we continued our trip without incident. Upon returning home, I went to the dealer. They were mostly useless. The service writer found 3 codes, one of which was for the rain sensing wipers. Other 2 were related to 4x4 system. I asked if they would drain transfer case and check for any evidence of damage in the fluid. Yes they would, but I had to pay for it. Now I have an appointment with my trusted transmission shop. They'll do a transmission service and drain the transfer case to see if anything shows up. The weather was close to 90* and the truck's fluids were hot from pulling mountain grades. But it was not at all overheated. Therefore I have to assume whatever happened was an electrical issue related to the heat. We live near San Diego and only use 4x4 when we go to snow in Mammoth Lakes several times during the winter. It sucks to have to do this, but I'm probably going to run the truck with the 4x4 fuse out, and just put it in when we need it. No big deal, but I miss my old "part time" 4x4. This kind of shit didn't happen :) BTW, this truck is a 2016 3500 Cummins with the standard automatic transmission and 30,000 miles on the clock. Still has factory powertrain warranty. Dave O.
The fill and drain plugs on my son's 2016 Ram 2500 barely had 5 lbs of torque tightness, so I copied that and just carefully snugged them back in (you had me kinda spooked, MB!).
I have a 2012 ram 2500 longhorn cummins and I love putting in work in the garage nothing better then saving money and knowing the job was done right.... I have used your videos many times in the past for information on these diy repairs just subbed and hit that bell thanks for your time...
Just did my 2013 ram 68rfe transmission today. It’s a messy job but went with Mag Tech pan to make it easier next time. This one tomorrow. I still haven’t found the grease fitting. Thanks for the videos.
Looks like you got your truck all shined up for this video! Thanks for showing us how it's done. I've always wondered how much teflon tape to use, and it sounds like 3 wraps is the answer.
i came across your videos tonight. You sir do a great job. Thanks for sharing. I have a 16 3500 getting ready to do transfer case, front and rear diffs, then transmission. Your videos have been very helpful.
I don't know if mine is an isolated instance but my transfer case has developed a leak between the case and the trans at around 105k. I'm betting it's the seal, which is about $10, but I'm not exactly looking forward to pulling it out of the truck and replacing it. But you know what? I'll be damned before I take my truck to *any* dealership for a repair. It might be a PITA but I'll know it's done right and the first time!
Yea, it doesn't look too bad if can get a little working room under there. Maybe try torquing the bolts if you haven't first. Also, there's a vent hose on over by the u joint (i believe). Make sure it's not stopped up. You've reminded me to put that in my video. I forgot about it.
Finally - an easy Ram oil change!.lol I always error on the side of caution when tightening ANY of my drain plugs that have OIL or lubrication on the threads. Anytime a bolt has OIL on the threads you should use 35-45% LESS torque than you would when tightening a DRY bolt. The same goes for GREASE 35-45% LESS to achieve bolt axial load or tension. - FYI- I would have put a little less force when tightening those plugs. That plug won't leak with teflon thread, it seals great.
One difference between you and a Millennial is that after you tighten the bolts on the skid plate you torque them to feel. Most Millennials will torque with the air tool and if they even try a wrench on them the bolts will likely be overtightened.
Hello again, Mr. Blair. I'm hoping that you remember me, but I'm the guy with the 2012 6.7L Ram 2500 with the crazy emissions issues (aka, the Katrina guy who used to live in Harvey, LA). We just found out that we will be "out of pocket" $6,000+ to bring the emissions system back to factory specifications ...so we -- and I'm sure you would agree -- are inclined to make some "changes" to our truck to make it more reliable and run like the wonderful 6.7L ISB we paid for is capable of. What I wanted to ask you about was the device I've seen in your videos -- the one that displays all of that great information via a video screen. Although I've been up to my elbows in our old 5.9L Cummins Ram, I'm a rank beginner when it comes to the 6.7L version, so please bear with me here ... Is that device part of a "tuner" or is it simply a device that acts as a video display for multiple "virtual gauges." Perhaps you've already covered it in other videos, but I'm so bogged down with talking to folks about getting the truck towed here and there that I haven't been able to spend a lot of time on UA-cam lately. Thanks again for your time.
Hi, of course I remember you. I didn't know where you moved to when you left Harvey however. There's two monitors I've played with but the one you probably are referring to is the Edge Insight CTS. It's just a monitor and doesn't change anything in the PCM so warranty isn't affected. I also just did a couple of videos on the Torque App which is an Android app that can give you some of the info. The Edge has a crappy screen but otherwise it works. If you just want exhaust temp and DPF regen you can use the torque app with your android phone. Question, what's with the 6K on your emissions system? Did you delete and now the state is making you put it back to spec? What state did you move to?
@@MarionBlair Although I'm a deep southerner myself, Mr. Blair, my wife is a Massachusetts yankee girl. Long story long, we lived in Harvey, then Gretna and, voila, Katrina blew us up here. I do, however, still go home for work, so I'm not an actual Mass citizen, which brings me to a wrinkle. As I still spend a lot of time in the south, the truck is still registered back home (in a non-emissions-testing state). Along with lots of other over-governing, Mass tests their vehicles annually to keep someone in Boston in the life they've become accustomed to. The point is that, technically, I don't have to worry about emissions testing ... but ... who knows what the future might hold for us. Regardless, the $6K they want from us is only part of the entire bill. Believe it or not, the entire repair order -- for just the parts -- totals almost $12,400.00!! (comes straight off the dealer cheat sheet). The $6K part is what we pay ... and the rest ... well Mopar is paying for that out of the goodness of their corporate heart (and out of the extended 7-year Mopar warranty we've been paying off for years). It's truly a sad commentary on what the EPA folks are doing to these fine trucks, but I trust you agree that we're not going to put the gag back on the engine. In closing, it's $6K+ to restore the truck to the stifled soot processor it was (aka, back to factory specifications) or spend a lot less to restore the reliability that our old 5.9L Ram 2500 4x4 is still famous for (al least around here). Now that I've worn your eyes out, do you have any thoughts on anything to do with modifying the 6.7L ISBs? Thank you, sir.
@@timberwrightsvs480 Oh, what a dilemma. I'd keep it registered down hear and leave it clean, ha. Have you had any issues with the delete, do you know what tuner you have etc etc.. BTW, I traveled to Boston/Worcester at Raytheon many times in the 80's while working for Exxon. I really loved it. My sister lives in New Hampshire, Florida and Bar Harbor depending on their mood but spent a lot of time in Bar Harbor. Loved Boston however. .
@@MarionBlair As always, thank you very kindly for your responses, Mr. Blair. I probably fouled it up somehow, but the truck is presently sitting in the driveway. It is still bone stock ... coughing, smoking and belching white smoke. In short, the defective emissions garbage is still on the truck, but, based on costs alone, we plan to order a tuner, an exhaust system and an additional kit to deal with what the dealer tells me is the root cause: a defective EGR cooler. Put simply, we cannot afford $6K+ to restore the truck to factory specifications, so we don't have a lot of choice here. Please let me know if you're interested, sir, and will keep you informed about our progress ~ Joyeux Noël
Mr. Blair, 2018 Ram 2500, 37,000 miles. Have owned it since new. After watching your video(s) I’m going to attempt changing out the front and rear differential oils. Never been changed. In addition, the transfer case. Question: If the rear differential has a limited slip, do I need to add an additive with the new oil? Also, is removing the cover plates on the differentials and replacing the “gaskets” a more thorough approach or am I making more work for myself than necessary? Would greatly appreciate you input. Many thanks! Take care, Dan
Your games shoukd be reusable. Just take care when removing the cover and peeling gskt off. The rear differential should be an AAM 11.50 helical gear limited slip. Model # 292AA. This differential does not use clutch or friction plates to attain limited slip. It uses helical gears to attain limited slip. As a result it does not require any limited slip additives. Just get a dealer to confirm what differentials you have in your truck and go from there.
If you want to save a little scratch next time you change the fluid, the company that builds the transfer case fills them with DexIII fluid when they are built. There’s no need to buy the liquid gold from Mopar. This is first hand knowledge not hearsay.
My 2012 Laramie calls for ATF+4 transmission fluid for the transfer case. Here is a list of the Chrysler ATF+4 licensed brands. All of which are full synthetic. Walmart Supertech ATF+4 is less than $5 per quart. www.centerforqa.com/chrysler-about/
Thank you, your videos are teaching me how to do things myself that are invaluable. I tow with my truck mainly in the summer heat of the deep southern US, I have saw advertised deep transmission pans that add fluid capacity. Do you think they would aide in cooling the transmission,also what about using synthetic fluid ? thanks for any reply.
I've never tried one, I'm sure it might help a little. My 1st reaction would be very little as the cooler is doing 99.9% of the cooling but I could be wrong. The fluid doesn't stay in the pan very long so I'm not sure it would get a lot of retention time, even with the added capacity, to get the benefit of the bigger pan which I assume has aluminum cooling vans etc... It may take longer to heat up the extra fluid on inclines but on the straight away, I'm not sure. Just my thoughts, I could be way off. The main reason I would install an after market would be to get a drain plug, ha. Some one who has one may know. As far as synthetic, I assume you mean in the engine since the transmission is filled with synthetic. I've always ran Delvac 1300 in my diesels but that's mainly because I don't put enough miles between changes to really be economical. I'd be draining oil every 6 months with 4000 miles on it. However, synthetic is going to hold up much better for the turbo and engine in the high heats when towing in the summer. So if I towed more often, I'd switch to it. The only thing I don't like is the 5 w 40, I wish it was 15 w 40 but it works and is great for winter cold starts also. I'd still change it 10k or less even with the synthetic but that's just me. From what I've seen of some of the oil analysis, it gets kind of iffy above 10K. But I haven't done it so take this with a grain of salt. No question that synthetic is superior to dino oil at either extremes, cold or hot. Normal conditions, I don't think it adds much other than you can run it longer as it hold it's property and vis longer. Just my thought.
Adding a deep transmission pan lowered my cruising temp from 172-175 down to a solid 165 with or without a load. The temp still spikes when the tranny is working hard, but it cools down a lot faster as well. Definitely worth the money. If you install one, it’s a good opportunity to change the tranny filters as well.
Thanks for the videos! I just finished changing the fluids in both differentials as well as doing this transfer case! Do you have a video on flushing the brakes? If you do I can’t find it. Thanks again!!!
I'm a bit overdue on mine needing changed, but what is your confidence level in doing this the first time? I'm fairly intelligent, (I once build a 318 V8 engine for my Charger) but these newer things "concern me" some. I've learned to change my oil and fuel filters from your videos. I think I could do the same with the transfer case and diffs. BTW, side subject. What are you thoughts on the Banks Rear diff cover for the RAM and AMSoil lubricants? Thanks.
100% sure you can do it. You can do it without remove the hose like I did. Just take the bolts out and slip a new one in. I think if I was going to add a rear diff after market cover, Banks would definitely be the one.
I have a new truck that makes a loud cluncking noise after stopping, selecting 4 wheel low and then shifting into drive, I can't tell if it's the front drive shaft or the transfer case?
@@MarionBlair I will try rolling it in neutral, thanks so much for your help, all is great once it's moving in 4WD, and I take it easy on my truck because I want it to last. I do realize that there is tremendous torque force's involved being diesel compared to gas. Thanks again, and your attempt at Spanish is far better than mine.☺️
How about using a torque wrench to remove. Then you'll know how much to re tighten. Or does that not work. I'm getting ready to change mine. Good vids. Same truck
Would you recommend changing differential fluid front/rear at 30k if you DON'T tow very often? I'm trying to figure out if I should do diffs and TC, diffs, or none. Truck has 29k miles.
No I wouldn't. Just look for leaks and check fluid level if you see any signs of leakage. BTW, my son has 300K on his and has never changed it. I'm afraid to pull the cover but it's whisper quiet. ha
Did you see the transfer case switch down there? I had trouble finding it the other day. I'm needing to replace mine because of an intermittent "4x4 shift in progress" message that pops up randomly while in motion at any MPH.
I used one similar to this one for the lube oil.. www.walmart.com/ip/Performance-Tool-W1139-Quart-Gallon-Fluid-Pump/174242525?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=13308&adid=22222222227066830627&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=170941027830&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-277466894071&wl5=9025237&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=120814000&wl11=online&wl12=174242525&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxYLoBRCxARIsAEf16-thS8NWOD6wPlb-sZVckqjcBs4SuFdbAA_hBT__km7Kx-xLOvQN8agaAp9eEALw_wcB
I used this one on the front diff. www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Higher+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+%281%29+Price+%3C%2410|63144&mkwid=seX6eMeug|pcrid|278978017105|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|63144|&pgrid=56296736066&ptaid=aud-454408221981:pla-296694731203&pcid=1458484684&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxYLoBRCxARIsAEf16-tun3sCqLN5VdGH7jMda6KtOytiKfhmNUIChv_waeaIbOvIIzvI19IaAlQoEALw_wcB
Hi Marion, Thanks for your videos. I did my transfer case today. I have a 2500 2018 with Electronic Shift-On-The-Fly Transfer Case. I drained the fluid from the transfer case and it was red like yours. I got the fluid from the dealer Mopar #68049954AA (Borg Warner 44-44 2016+ Transfer case) but it is not red . Did they change the fluid for model after 2016 ??
I found this, you could double check with the dealer and your vin #. torqueking.com/product/801/mopar-68049954ab-transfer-case-fluid-for-4440-and-2016-up-4444/
@@bootsy1968 Yea, just to make sure they didn't give you the wrong one, the 1500 also uses that one. They have created some unnecessary conversion and the owner's manual has no part numbers. The service manual I have is for 2014 so it doesn't help for 2018. let me know if you will. appreciate.
“ I glanced over at the u joint fitting and almost had a heart attack” lol I’m getting ready to grease mine. A mechanic I know always says a job will be a real bitch before he started, trying to psych himself to think it will be easier than he first thought. I will have to say on my Dodge Ram I will never change the serpentine belt again myself...that was a bitch.
I'm not too keen on the idea. Too long a run for the lines. The filter would probably have to be located under the passenger side frame rail which is a long ways from the filter housing. The one person I know that relocated his, ended up taking it off because of some sort of harmonics vibration the lines were causing. Probably because they were too small? It also provide more areas for leaks and thus less reliability. Not sure if the lines siphon oil back to the engine when it's shut off but that's another concern. People are successfully doing it however. Going thru the fend is not bad once you get the hang of it or from the top. But that's just me. I'm sure others would disagree with me.
Check out my video. I had allot of metal shaving in mine. After I changed the fluid it ran so much smoother, surprised the bottom drain does not have a magnet on it
Hey Marion, I just did my 2nd (60k) fluid change. I looked on UA-cam for a refresher and yours popped up. I remember it from my (30k) service. One little tip I stumbled upon that I thought I should share. When removing the skid plate, leave the right rear bolt loosely in place and the skid plate will rotate out of the way and rotate back when finished. Not a big time saver, but it was nice not having to line it all back up when laying under the truck. Thanks again for your videos. Always nice to watch them. 👍
Marion, I really like your channel. I also have a 2014 6.7 3500 Ram Truck. Did a lot of research on the lubricant for the 44-46 and 44-47 BW transfer case as Mopar has priced their oil out of sight. Spoke with the Amsoil rep and Amsoil now has one. It's part of their Signature Series and is priced around $21 per qt. Plus you can get it in their flexible squeeze bag which makes the filling very easy. Also, BG has now developed one and our Ram Dealer here in my town is now using it instead of the Mopar oil. Check it out as both companies produce top quality lubricants. I prefer the Amsoil and have had no issues. Thought this might help your viewers find something other than the WAY OVERPRICED Mopar oil.
I come back here every other day to hear "were using some oil"
"no shit"
Thats comedy gold
Thank you for the fantastic information Marion! Pipe threads being tapered is something I had no knowledge about and I have to say you likely saved me hundreds in damage to my T-Case as I have a tendency to get carried away with torque.
Dr. Marion, followed your instruction and all went smoothly and efficiently. Thanks for assisting me in this procedure. The patient (2015 2500 Ram named "Bertha") is doing well.
Sir, just wanted to let you know I completed the change in my transfer case today (2015 2500). Your video was invaluable. I thank you so much for taking the time to put this info out. PS. My only mistake today was placing the oil pan too close to the drain -man that stuff comes shooting out!! Left 1/4 quart on the ground before I could move it!
I know im randomly asking but does anybody know of a way to log back into an Instagram account?
I was dumb forgot my password. I love any help you can give me!
@Kaden Ira instablaster =)
@Emerson Wilson Thanks for your reply. I found the site on google and im waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
I see it takes a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Emerson Wilson It worked and I now got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thank you so much you saved my ass!
@Kaden Ira Glad I could help :D
Great video. Always look forward to your Ram tutorials.
thanks Mitch
you're a smart man, the book is a guideline, nothing can replace common sense. i just subcribed and just finished my rear diff fluid change on my 2012 ram 2500 with the HEMI. ( i watched that video too) its my first time owning a ram. great videos thank you
Thanks for your videos, sir! Good to see someone who has the same truck (more or less) and isn't JUST going over modifications.
Subscribed!
Glad to help, thank you
I feel like a regular fixture on this wonderful site! (lol) This comment is a bit off subject, but transfer case related.
Last week while pulling our 35' travel trailer, we stopped in Kingman AZ for one night on our way to Grand Canyon. Just when we were exiting I-40 we heard a horrible grinding sound. Almost sounded like we were dragging something under the truck. We stopped (so did noise) on the off ramp and warning light was on the dash that read "service 4x4 system". I put the truck in neutral and rolled slowly forward on the downhill slope. The noise was gone and so was the light. All seemed normal again, so we continued another 2 miles on the surface road to the KOA in town.
Our pull-through space was gravel, so I took the opportunity to move it in and out of 4x4, and 4x4 low. No problem. With no internet and being late on Saturday, I called my brother to do a Google search. What he found is that the truck most likely tried to go into 4x4 low range all on its own, at 45mph!! (we weren't the first ones to experience this, others with catastrophic results)
I pulled the 10-amp fuse that controls the transfer case servo motor and we continued our trip without incident. Upon returning home, I went to the dealer. They were mostly useless. The service writer found 3 codes, one of which was for the rain sensing wipers. Other 2 were related to 4x4 system. I asked if they would drain transfer case and check for any evidence of damage in the fluid. Yes they would, but I had to pay for it. Now I have an appointment with my trusted transmission shop. They'll do a transmission service and drain the transfer case to see if anything shows up.
The weather was close to 90* and the truck's fluids were hot from pulling mountain grades. But it was not at all overheated. Therefore I have to assume whatever happened was an electrical issue related to the heat. We live near San Diego and only use 4x4 when we go to snow in Mammoth Lakes several times during the winter. It sucks to have to do this, but I'm probably going to run the truck with the 4x4 fuse out, and just put it in when we need it. No big deal, but I miss my old "part time" 4x4. This kind of shit didn't happen :)
BTW, this truck is a 2016 3500 Cummins with the standard automatic transmission and 30,000 miles on the clock. Still has factory powertrain warranty.
Dave O.
That really sucks. Sounds like my luck
The fill and drain plugs on my son's 2016 Ram 2500 barely had 5 lbs of torque tightness, so I copied that and just carefully snugged them back in (you had me kinda spooked, MB!).
I have a 2012 ram 2500 longhorn cummins and I love putting in work in the garage nothing better then saving money and knowing the job was done right.... I have used your videos many times in the past for information on these diy repairs just subbed and hit that bell thanks for your time...
Appreciate that!
Just did my 2013 ram 68rfe transmission today. It’s a messy job but went with Mag Tech pan to make it easier next time. This one tomorrow. I still haven’t found the grease fitting. Thanks for the videos.
I use German torque, GOOD-N-TIGHT
I wonder if those rags are lint free🤣🤣........really appreciate all the great info
My favorite Cajun!! 😁 Thank you Mr.Blair for your wonderful videos, your dedication , and your time! Greatly appreciated sir!!
Looks like you got your truck all shined up for this video! Thanks for showing us how it's done. I've always wondered how much teflon tape to use, and it sounds like 3 wraps is the answer.
Yep, thank you very much
Love watching your videos. You have such a calm way about explaining and doing the job. Thanks again.
I appreciate that!
i came across your videos tonight. You sir do a great job. Thanks for sharing. I have a 16 3500 getting ready to do transfer case, front and rear diffs, then transmission. Your videos have been very helpful.
Once again... learned all I needed to know about this project. Thank you. Soon I'll be tackling this job for the first time.
I don't know if mine is an isolated instance but my transfer case has developed a leak between the case and the trans at around 105k. I'm betting it's the seal, which is about $10, but I'm not exactly looking forward to pulling it out of the truck and replacing it. But you know what? I'll be damned before I take my truck to *any* dealership for a repair. It might be a PITA but I'll know it's done right and the first time!
Yea, it doesn't look too bad if can get a little working room under there. Maybe try torquing the bolts if you haven't first. Also, there's a vent hose on over by the u joint (i believe). Make sure it's not stopped up. You've reminded me to put that in my video. I forgot about it.
Excellent instructional video and fun commentary too. Keep ‘em coming!
Thank You for all your info, going to change fluids on my 2012 this week.
As always, very nice informative video pop. The bad thing now is... I gotta do mine. Thank you sir.
This one is a breeze. thanks much
I own a 19 Bighorn Cummins, I always try to look before I leap a couple of times. Thank you
Finally - an easy Ram oil change!.lol
I always error on the side of caution when tightening ANY of my drain plugs that have OIL or lubrication on the threads. Anytime a bolt has OIL on the threads you should use 35-45% LESS torque than you would when tightening a DRY bolt. The same goes for GREASE 35-45% LESS to achieve bolt axial load or tension.
- FYI- I would have put a little less force when tightening those plugs. That plug won't leak with teflon thread, it seals great.
Nice video thanks
One difference between you and a Millennial is that after you tighten the bolts on the skid plate you torque them to feel. Most Millennials will torque with the air tool and if they even try a wrench on them the bolts will likely be overtightened.
Thank you
Nice video marion 🔧😊👍
Hello again, Mr. Blair. I'm hoping that you remember me, but I'm the guy with the 2012 6.7L Ram 2500 with the crazy emissions issues (aka, the Katrina guy who used to live in Harvey, LA). We just found out that we will be "out of pocket" $6,000+ to bring the emissions system back to factory specifications ...so we -- and I'm sure you would agree -- are inclined to make some "changes" to our truck to make it more reliable and run like the wonderful 6.7L ISB we paid for is capable of. What I wanted to ask you about was the device I've seen in your videos -- the one that displays all of that great information via a video screen. Although I've been up to my elbows in our old 5.9L Cummins Ram, I'm a rank beginner when it comes to the 6.7L version, so please bear with me here ... Is that device part of a "tuner" or is it simply a device that acts as a video display for multiple "virtual gauges." Perhaps you've already covered it in other videos, but I'm so bogged down with talking to folks about getting the truck towed here and there that I haven't been able to spend a lot of time on UA-cam lately. Thanks again for your time.
Hi, of course I remember you. I didn't know where you moved to when you left Harvey however. There's two monitors I've played with but the one you probably are referring to is the Edge Insight CTS. It's just a monitor and doesn't change anything in the PCM so warranty isn't affected. I also just did a couple of videos on the Torque App which is an Android app that can give you some of the info. The Edge has a crappy screen but otherwise it works. If you just want exhaust temp and DPF regen you can use the torque app with your android phone. Question, what's with the 6K on your emissions system? Did you delete and now the state is making you put it back to spec? What state did you move to?
@@MarionBlair Although I'm a deep southerner myself, Mr. Blair, my wife is a Massachusetts yankee girl. Long story long, we lived in Harvey, then Gretna and, voila, Katrina blew us up here. I do, however, still go home for work, so I'm not an actual Mass citizen, which brings me to a wrinkle. As I still spend a lot of time in the south, the truck is still registered back home (in a non-emissions-testing state). Along with lots of other over-governing, Mass tests their vehicles annually to keep someone in Boston in the life they've become accustomed to. The point is that, technically, I don't have to worry about emissions testing ... but ... who knows what the future might hold for us. Regardless, the $6K they want from us is only part of the entire bill. Believe it or not, the entire repair order -- for just the parts -- totals almost $12,400.00!! (comes straight off the dealer cheat sheet). The $6K part is what we pay ... and the rest ... well Mopar is paying for that out of the goodness of their corporate heart (and out of the extended 7-year Mopar warranty we've been paying off for years). It's truly a sad commentary on what the EPA folks are doing to these fine trucks, but I trust you agree that we're not going to put the gag back on the engine. In closing, it's $6K+ to restore the truck to the stifled soot processor it was (aka, back to factory specifications) or spend a lot less to restore the reliability that our old 5.9L Ram 2500 4x4 is still famous for (al least around here). Now that I've worn your eyes out, do you have any thoughts on anything to do with modifying the 6.7L ISBs? Thank you, sir.
@@timberwrightsvs480 Oh, what a dilemma. I'd keep it registered down hear and leave it clean, ha. Have you had any issues with the delete, do you know what tuner you have etc etc.. BTW, I traveled to Boston/Worcester at Raytheon many times in the 80's while working for Exxon. I really loved it. My sister lives in New Hampshire, Florida and Bar Harbor depending on their mood but spent a lot of time in Bar Harbor. Loved Boston however.
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@@MarionBlair As always, thank you very kindly for your responses, Mr. Blair. I probably fouled it up somehow, but the truck is presently sitting in the driveway. It is still bone stock ... coughing, smoking and belching white smoke. In short, the defective emissions garbage is still on the truck, but, based on costs alone, we plan to order a tuner, an exhaust system and an additional kit to deal with what the dealer tells me is the root cause: a defective EGR cooler. Put simply, we cannot afford $6K+ to restore the truck to factory specifications, so we don't have a lot of choice here. Please let me know if you're interested, sir, and will keep you informed about our progress ~ Joyeux Noël
Just did mine after nine years... only 110 K. Next time I'm buying one of those little pumps you have as a syphon pump took 35 minutes, lol
Many thanks for the video! Best wishes!
Thank you much and you and your family also
Great videos sir , i got engaged now haha , it's funny how you said that last part (you gonna wish you never changed this oil) by overtightened haha..
Very helpful as usual. Thanks
National Pipe Taper. 😀
Good video
Mr. Blair,
2018 Ram 2500, 37,000 miles. Have owned it since new.
After watching your video(s) I’m going to attempt changing out the front and rear differential oils. Never been changed. In addition, the transfer case.
Question: If the rear differential has a limited slip, do I need to add an additive with the new oil? Also, is removing the cover plates on the differentials and replacing the “gaskets” a more thorough approach or am I making more work for myself than necessary?
Would greatly appreciate you input. Many thanks!
Take care,
Dan
Your games shoukd be reusable. Just take care when removing the cover and peeling gskt off. The rear differential should be an AAM
11.50 helical gear limited slip. Model # 292AA. This differential does not use clutch or friction plates to attain limited slip. It uses helical gears to attain limited slip. As a result it does not require any limited slip additives. Just get a dealer to confirm what differentials you have in your truck and go from there.
If you want to save a little scratch next time you change the fluid, the company that builds the transfer case fills them with DexIII fluid when they are built. There’s no need to buy the liquid gold from Mopar. This is first hand knowledge not hearsay.
Yea, thanks for the tip. This stuff was over $20 / quart
My 2012 Laramie calls for ATF+4 transmission fluid for the transfer case. Here is a list of the Chrysler ATF+4 licensed brands. All of which are full synthetic. Walmart Supertech ATF+4 is less than $5 per quart. www.centerforqa.com/chrysler-about/
@@MarionBlair Now it's $31/qt at the dealer (Dec '20)
@@dantaylor1068 Good Lord!
Pipe thread is also tapered
Yeah that's what that is
Thank you, your videos are teaching me how to do things myself that are invaluable.
I tow with my truck mainly in the summer heat of the deep southern US, I have saw advertised
deep transmission pans that add fluid capacity. Do you think they would aide in cooling the transmission,also what about using synthetic fluid ? thanks for any reply.
I've never tried one, I'm sure it might help a little. My 1st reaction would be very little as the cooler is doing 99.9% of the cooling but I could be wrong. The fluid doesn't stay in the pan very long so I'm not sure it would get a lot of retention time, even with the added capacity, to get the benefit of the bigger pan which I assume has aluminum cooling vans etc... It may take longer to heat up the extra fluid on inclines but on the straight away, I'm not sure. Just my thoughts, I could be way off. The main reason I would install an after market would be to get a drain plug, ha. Some one who has one may know.
As far as synthetic, I assume you mean in the engine since the transmission is filled with synthetic. I've always ran Delvac 1300 in my diesels but that's mainly because I don't put enough miles between changes to really be economical. I'd be draining oil every 6 months with 4000 miles on it. However, synthetic is going to hold up much better for the turbo and engine in the high heats when towing in the summer. So if I towed more often, I'd switch to it. The only thing I don't like is the 5 w 40, I wish it was 15 w 40 but it works and is great for winter cold starts also. I'd still change it 10k or less even with the synthetic but that's just me. From what I've seen of some of the oil analysis, it gets kind of iffy above 10K. But I haven't done it so take this with a grain of salt. No question that synthetic is superior to dino oil at either extremes, cold or hot. Normal conditions, I don't think it adds much other than you can run it longer as it hold it's property and vis longer. Just my thought.
thank you.
Adding a deep transmission pan lowered my cruising temp from 172-175 down to a solid 165 with or without a load. The temp still spikes when the tranny is working hard, but it cools down a lot faster as well. Definitely worth the money.
If you install one, it’s a good opportunity to change the tranny filters as well.
Thanks for the videos! I just finished changing the fluids in both differentials as well as doing this transfer case! Do you have a video on flushing the brakes? If you do I can’t find it. Thanks again!!!
Thanks for the video Col. Sanders ;D
Thx
Thank you once again !
well done
I'm a bit overdue on mine needing changed, but what is your confidence level in doing this the first time? I'm fairly intelligent, (I once build a 318 V8 engine for my Charger) but these newer things "concern me" some. I've learned to change my oil and fuel filters from your videos.
I think I could do the same with the transfer case and diffs.
BTW, side subject. What are you thoughts on the Banks Rear diff cover for the RAM and AMSoil lubricants?
Thanks.
100% sure you can do it. You can do it without remove the hose like I did. Just take the bolts out and slip a new one in. I think if I was going to add a rear diff after market cover, Banks would definitely be the one.
I have a new truck that makes a loud cluncking noise after stopping, selecting 4 wheel low and then shifting into drive, I can't tell if it's the front drive shaft or the transfer case?
That could be normal actually. Ram tells you this shift it while you're still rolling in neuutral. try that and see if you still get the clunk.
@@MarionBlair I will try rolling it in neutral, thanks so much for your help, all is great once it's moving in 4WD, and I take it easy on my truck because I want it to last. I do realize that there is tremendous torque force's involved being diesel compared to gas. Thanks again, and your attempt at Spanish is far better than mine.☺️
Haha thanks
at 7:17 you should have made a "Click" sound to simulate proper torque :)
My bad yeah or maybe I could just count the number of grunts
Hi good video. Got a question even if you don’t use the 4x4 have yo replace the oil?
I wouldn't pull the cover, use a little hand pump from harbor freight or whatever. I really doesn't get dirty from what I've seen.
How about using a torque wrench to remove. Then you'll know how much to re tighten. Or does that not work. I'm getting ready to change mine. Good vids. Same truck
Good video my friend. Does the manual say to change every 30,000 miles?
No, it's check it at 30 and change at 60 unless you do a lot of towing and severe duty like police work etc...
Marion Blair thanks for the info! Stay safe.
No shit. That pump device is my next purchase.
The fluid is 36 a quart.
Would you recommend changing differential fluid front/rear at 30k if you DON'T tow very often?
I'm trying to figure out if I should do diffs and TC, diffs, or none. Truck has 29k miles.
No I wouldn't. Just look for leaks and check fluid level if you see any signs of leakage. BTW, my son has 300K on his and has never changed it. I'm afraid to pull the cover but it's whisper quiet. ha
@@MarionBlair Thank you sir, I'll do that.
What fluid did you use on the transfer case?
I have a 68rfe transmission on my 2015 ram 2500
Mopar 68089195AA
Did you see the transfer case switch down there? I had trouble finding it the other day. I'm needing to replace mine because of an intermittent "4x4 shift in progress" message that pops up randomly while in motion at any MPH.
Thanks, I'm going to look
Mine was the connector on the front axle, remove plug, put die electric grease on connectors, reinstall, problem solved
What is the part in the package you were showing?
m.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_fuel-transfer-lubrication
Can i use the same oil of the diff? 75w140?
No the transfer case is totally different, more like transmission oil
@@MarionBlair thanks
Marion what are the hand pumps called? Looks like they work well.
I used one similar to this one for the lube oil.. www.walmart.com/ip/Performance-Tool-W1139-Quart-Gallon-Fluid-Pump/174242525?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=13308&adid=22222222227066830627&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=170941027830&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-277466894071&wl5=9025237&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=120814000&wl11=online&wl12=174242525&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxYLoBRCxARIsAEf16-thS8NWOD6wPlb-sZVckqjcBs4SuFdbAA_hBT__km7Kx-xLOvQN8agaAp9eEALw_wcB
Man, that's one hell of a link! Sorry. You can buy them at any of the auto parts or Harbor Freight also.
I used this one on the front diff. www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html?cid=paid_google|*PLA+-+All+Products+-+Higher+Sales+Items|New+Products+-+%281%29+Price+%3C%2410|63144&mkwid=seX6eMeug|pcrid|278978017105|pkw||pmt||pdv|c|slid||product|63144|&pgrid=56296736066&ptaid=aud-454408221981:pla-296694731203&pcid=1458484684&gclid=Cj0KCQjwxYLoBRCxARIsAEf16-tun3sCqLN5VdGH7jMda6KtOytiKfhmNUIChv_waeaIbOvIIzvI19IaAlQoEALw_wcB
What fluid did you use?
I use the Mopar. It's red, looks like transmission fluid
@@MarionBlair Just did mine @ 55,000 miles and it was still reddish in color, no towing. I was really careful tightening it with the PTFE tape.
Where did you get that pump
Either O'reilly's or Northern tools. Just about all auto parts have them. Harbor freight also.
Hi Marion,
Thanks for your videos.
I did my transfer case today. I have a 2500 2018 with Electronic Shift-On-The-Fly Transfer Case. I drained the fluid from the transfer case and it was red like yours. I got the fluid from the dealer Mopar #68049954AA (Borg Warner 44-44 2016+ Transfer case) but it is not red . Did they change the fluid for model after 2016 ??
That's interesting, I'm going to look into that. They are the same transfer cases as far as I know.
Oh, sorry, you have a 2018, it's possible, going to dig that up, the stuff I put in was, 68089195AA and it's red.
I found this, you could double check with the dealer and your vin #.
torqueking.com/product/801/mopar-68049954ab-transfer-case-fluid-for-4440-and-2016-up-4444/
Marion Blair I will still double check with the dealer on Monday.
Thanks
@@bootsy1968 Yea, just to make sure they didn't give you the wrong one, the 1500 also uses that one. They have created some unnecessary conversion and the owner's manual has no part numbers. The service manual I have is for 2014 so it doesn't help for 2018. let me know if you will. appreciate.
Do they sell the transfer case fluid in a pump?
Just quarts, you buy the pump. very inexpensive however. Like $5. Holds two quarts.
@@MarionBlair thank you sir for reply back.
Thanks Marion. Can you please put a link to an example of the pump? I'm not familiar with it.
Today I learned there’s another oil reservoir in my truck I’ve never touched. (sigh…)
Can you mark its depth you got me paranoid about the crack.lol
“ I glanced over at the u joint fitting and almost had a heart attack” lol I’m getting ready to grease mine. A mechanic I know always says a job will be a real bitch before he started, trying to psych himself to think it will be easier than he first thought. I will have to say on my Dodge Ram I will never change the serpentine belt again myself...that was a bitch.
Yea, the U joint isn't that bad if you take your time, and line up your grease gun properly.
@@MarionBlair a few videos suggest using a needle. I have not tried that yet.
Sir. Do you have any say about oil filter relocation ?
I'm not too keen on the idea. Too long a run for the lines. The filter would probably have to be located under the passenger side frame rail which is a long ways from the filter housing. The one person I know that relocated his, ended up taking it off because of some sort of harmonics vibration the lines were causing. Probably because they were too small? It also provide more areas for leaks and thus less reliability. Not sure if the lines siphon oil back to the engine when it's shut off but that's another concern. People are successfully doing it however. Going thru the fend is not bad once you get the hang of it or from the top. But that's just me. I'm sure others would disagree with me.
Looks like Iam 130k over due!
Check out my video. I had allot of metal shaving in mine. After I changed the fluid it ran so much smoother, surprised the bottom drain does not have a magnet on it
ua-cam.com/video/i220YjF-he8/v-deo.html
Sherlock!
00:30 🤣🤣
MILLAGE
every 60,000 for light duty, 30,000 for heavy
should this be done at what timeline of milage driven?
Check it at 30,000 miles, service at 60,000 miles/48 months. If you're towing frequently, service every 30,000 miles/24 months.