Talk about a comprehensive, to the point, straight-up walk through from a guy who clearly knows what he’s doing. This is how it’s done. New follower of this guy 👍
Awesome video!!! A trick I learned from my shop teacher back in High school is put you pinkie finger in the hole all the way to the back side of the cover in the hole. Bend you finger at the first joint down into the fluid. For me this is 3/4", so if I do this and the fluid touches the tip of my pinkie that means the fluid will be 3/4" inch below the top of the fill hole. Hope this makes sense, but works great! Obviously everyone's fingers are different so you will have to adjust accordingly... LOL
No going to lie, what I always do is just syphon out the old fluid through the fill hole and pump new in. Takes about 5 mins and no mess. Not the recommended way as I probably do not get 100% of the old fluid out, but now at 188k miles in my 2014 Ram 2500. No issues with either diff, and I own a pool construction company and pull 15k pounds nearly daily with it.
No crazy music simple and very to the point with quite a bit of information. Someone else suggested the pinky trick that’s an old trick I’m about to do mine for the first time will try that trick I have the same exact year Ram 2500 .......keep it up sir
“Lint-free cloth looked everywhere and it was right under my nose.” 😂 I appreciate you greatly good sir. Good blessings sent your way on teaching this lad something new.
Marion, thank you so much for the step by step overview. I changed the diff oil in my 3500 recently and your overview was extremely useful and gave me some confidence to knock it out. I reused the gasket and put 75W-140 in based on towing and dealer recommendations. Torqued each bolt to 23 lbs just to be cautious ans so far, no leaking. Took about 3.7 quarts in the 11.5 and the dealer recommended the LS additive, so I just put it in as they indicated, even if it wasn't required, it wouldn't hurt anything...
Friction modifier can in fact damage the type of LS diff in this truck due to the fact it is not a clutch style diff. Friction modifiers are extra slick so the clutches function properly. The modifier can make the diff gears slip more than they should and cause excessive premature wear.
Just did my 2017 2wd 6.7 2500. 94k on clock. Fluid was not that dirty. Still a brownish color. First fluid change ever on the diff. I tow about 15-30 times a year. Filled it up with just over 4 quarts. I made a dip stick. But the fluid it so clear that it’s very hard to get a accurate reading. I will drive it for a few weeks and see it I can get a reading on it again. Thanks for making the videos you do and go into details! Helps a lot! And I agree no one really knows what the correct fluid level should be lol!!! Always filled the diffs in the past until it started pouring out!
Nice video with good details. The ring and pinion in my 2018 had to be changed after 17K miles because of noise around 65mph. I had just returned from pulling my RV between Texas and California, and it was screaming when I finally got back home. My dealer rebuilt it under warranty, but I dumped the Mopar fluid and replaced with Amsoil because of recommendations from a local AAM axle shop. I now have 50K+ miles on the truck and the gears are still quiet as new. I would recommend to anyone that tows to replace the Mopar fluid with Amsoil.
You can only use the bolts the one time you have, next fluid change you will need to buy new bolts. You were correct about the stretch you put on them making them weak from the torquing If you do a lot of towing getting a aluminum cover helps with the heat. Thanks for the video
Always love your videos. I honestly think these manufacturers come up with these insane maintenance intervals. They just want to get you back to shop to sell you something. 2013 Ram 3500, $199 to do that service. I’ll wait to 50,000 and do it myself. Have a Happy Thanksgiving.
Thanks Terry, Agree totally. I'm not going to pull that cover next time, I'm going to suck the oil out with a pump. In fact that's how I'll do the front, soon. The oil and gasket cost me about $160 with tax so that's a pretty good deal. I spent the hole day on it. My dealer charges an hour.
@@MarionBlair see you sold another Ram. They ought to put you on the payroll. At least supply you with all the parts and fluids you need to maintain tour truck. You're like the uncle I wish I had living close by.
Thank you Marion for helping me maintain good maintenance practices on my 2018 Cummins...... saves me money and helps me sleep better. I also used 20 foot pounds on a wet bolt. Cheers Sir !
Hey, thanks for the video. I have viewed a lot of your videos. And you do a great job. Thank you. The dealer near me where I have bought parts and fluid from had told me. That the differential front and back gaskets can be reused. You just have to check them for cracks and chips if they have none you can reuse it. I do have in my garage a new front and back DEF gasket in case I need it. But so far so good again thanks for the video.
@@MarionBlair I agree- I would not go past 20 lb ft. There is a big difference between DRY thread and WET thread torque specs. When threads are wet you should reduce torque value by up to 25% depending on what kind of lube is on the thread.
@@MarionBlair going to do this project on my truck today or tomorrow, I have the limited slip as well. Would you still stick with a 20 ft lbs recommendation or would you say somewhere in the middle at 22-23 ft lbs?
I don't torque valve cover, oil pan , transmission or rear gaskets. I do the lock tite put bolts in hand tight then tighten in the pattern the book says. So far never had a leak.
I did AimsOil Severe Gear 75w140 rear with SkipLock pack Changed mine at 60k magnet was full and dirty like yours wish I would have changed it earlier . I got AimsOil $2 dollars a quart cheaper which is by far a better oil in my opinion. Now I need to do the front
If I recall correctly back in 03 when they first went to AAM Axles they had some issues with blown seals- and I think there was a TSB about revised oil level to 3/4 below the hole. Later trucks has a fill line stamped to the rear cover. Rubberized gasket is reliably reusable. Cover bolts have been known to snap before reaching specified torque.
Don’t know too much about the current trucks, but I’ve had a couple 5.9 3rd gens. Like you, I like to do my own work, and am kind of meticulous about things. Your channel is awesome.
I have seen where some folks are sucking the fluid out of these diffs and that maybe good enough but I feel like this is the way it should be done to make sure that you get as many metal shavings out as possible and to visually see that every thing is in good condition
Good vid! Ok so a couple things. Check out Lube Locker gaskets. They are half the price, but I like them better than OEM gaskets. Reason being the OE gaskets are thick and don't go all the way to the edge of the flange. This allows dirt and mud to collect between the housing flange and cover causing rust. As far as getting the old loctite off a Dremel equipped with a wire wheel works very well. I think the OE bolts are junk. I replaced mine with ARP hardware. I also use low strength purple loctite on small hardware like this. Medium strength is overkill. Pulling the spare out, dropping the swaybar out of the way and jacking the truck a bit will give you a direct line to all the hardware so you can use sockets. Crow's feet on torque wrenches are a pain in the ass. I prefer sockets. I think the line on the pan is the minumum amount. That's the only thing that makes sense to me. My factory fill level was right at the hole. I filled it to just below the hole. I asked a buddy that has done many of these and he said if you stick your finger in to the first knuckle and bend it the oil level is fine as long as you feel the oil with your finger. Another buddy who works at Dodge said it's not super critical. Just get it close.
Excellent feedback Sal, thank you. I noticed that on the gasket, I didn't lie the way it trapped dirt. I'll check out the lube locker. Your answers address exactly what gave me the most headaches. I'm going to pickup a wire wheel for my dremel. On the access issue, Totally agree after doing it with the bars in the way. The crow foot is a total pain and the u joint was need often. I spoke with the local RAM service manager a couple days ago and he said the training he received on checking the level was exactly as your buddy said, level should be at your first knuckle on your finger. That's pretty close to the fill line. I wish RAM made that a little more clear in the manual. Your comments much appreciated, thank you.
Marion, my dad has a 2003 Chevy Duramax bought new he now has 300,000 miles on it and the rear diff fluid has never been changed and the brake fluid has never been changed and he's went through a few sets of brakes but he's never had a single issue from the rear diff or the brake system I'm like you in the fact that I do it more frequently than required it's definitely overkill but I feel good about doing it
FYI on The 2015 they have a "fill line" indicator on the Diff Cover, which is @ 1/4 below the Hole. Like you I used to always filled them to the top, but, A lot of the forums I read "claim" the overfill is the cause for the seal leaks. P.S. I can also see this on your cover @ 9:51 mark, while you torque the bolts. Just to the left of center.
I ran into those same contradictory specs on rear diff level as you did, I went with Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 and filled to 1/4 inch below fill hole. Also after getting the truck home from dealer, I check all levels and the rear diff was 1/2 quart low, the front diff was a ridiculous 3/4 quart low, dealers don't give a damn, they just want the 60 thousand dollars.
It's disgusting. I'm been corresponding with FCA and American Axle and ready to start drinking again. It's ridiculous. I'm so pissed about not being able to get an answer to a simple question. Still working on it.
@@iwwqytv no, I talked to the engineer with American axle and he was useless, he thought it may be to save oil which is ridiculous. I just fill it to within a quarter inch of the fill hole. But I don’t think it would hurt a thing to fill it all the way up I think that’s what most people do.
@@MarionBlair Thanks for the reply, and the excellent series of videos you put out. Do you still utilize the method of suck suctioning out the out fluid without removing the cover?
Another fantastic video Marion, thanks a lot for doing these. Today I took my 2016 to my long time trusted transmission shop to do a service on the transmission and transfer case. I was concerned about the transfer case because on a recent road trip, the truck unexpectedly tried to engage 4x4 low all by itself at highway speed! (not a pleasant sound...) Anyway, they checked the level in the rear differential and discovered a lot of metal on the magnetic fill plug. They took a photo and suggested showing the dealer. (without changing it) Did you discover any filings on yours? And, did you check the factory fill level before draining it? I certainly share your phobia of over torquing. I'm forever over doing it and breaking something. I'm surprised I haven't snapped of an oil filter yet! lol Sure wish you lived next door!!
U could have used RTV for your gasket. Most the time they don’t put the reusable gasket back on. The old 9.25 rear ends they don’t have a gasket even from the factory it just RTV
Marion, Thought I'd send you this bit of info. If you ever need more oem differential gaskets call Geno's garage. They carry the original factory parts for alot less cash. Rear gasket for your truck $24.84 Terry
@@MarionBlair Not a problem. Always good to save a buck or two. The doggone dealers are so friggin expensive on EVERYTHING!! Keep those great vids coming. You are the best!! Terry
My son's 2016 Ram 2500 diff bolts were not that snug although some were awkward to get to, didn't require much cleaning either, but if you want to replace the bolts the dealer charges $7 each but my local parts store (Auto Zone) had them for a buck a piece, M8-1.25 X 20MM. If you don't have that many miles on the truck I would definitely recommend just doing a siphon and refill instead (like Mr. Blair did for his front diff), save the $60 gasket charge and finish in a fraction of the time.
I wonder if my 2018 2500 is the same procedure, I'm too lazy to go look this Saturday morning. Lol! My truck only has 21,000 miles on it. But at 66 years old it's my lifetime dream truck, a Laramie Limited Tungsten Edition. Every option you can think of except suede headliner delete, yeah I had to settle, Lol! So I want to take EXTREME care of it, especially considering the majority of it's duty it exactly like Marion Blair's, towing a travel trailer. Mine weighs about 7,500 lbs loaded. I can dig out the Cat Scale numbers and also discuss fuel mileage if anyone is interested. On a stop over right now during an 8 state camper trip with a 29 ft travel trailer behind us most of the way. The majority of it at altitude in the northwest. The Cummins just plain kicks ass. The Ram 1500 that I traded in had a drain plug on the bottom, making it much easier to change although it did not give you the opportunity to for visual inspection, something you should consider under severe duty. Whoever purchased that half ton with 55,000 freeway miles on the clock got a very well maintained truck. Thanks for these videos Marion, I've watched every one and learned a learned a lot from them!!!!
Thanks very much, yes yours will be identical. But save yourself a lot of headache and work and get a little vacuum pump from O'Reilly's, AutoZone or wherever and just pumped it out and don't pull the cover. If you maintain the fluid from the beginning it's really not necessary in my opinion. With that track bar Etc in the way it's a real pain in the ass to pull the cover. I called my dealer to ask them how much labor they charge and they said $75 I said how do you do it, they said we Pump It Out.
Marion sorry for my slow reply to your quick response. Gathering parts for this project today, including a magnetic trey to keep in the trailer. Man those parts can fall straight through the earth's crust. You da man!
Dont forget to blow the breather tube. My check valve was stuck and oil blew through the seals. Sucks having to spend $300 for front and $300 for rear.
The banks differential covers look great and well engineered but they’re definitely not cheap. I’ve had a few trucks in the past with hundreds of thousands of miles on them with the stock diff covers.....it’s all about the pm maintenance and the right foot not some fancy cover.
At 35k my 2017 3500 was chattering like a mother it would vibrate the mirrors. Had to use modifiers in it. I have never had to change rear fluid till after 100k u till I got to Dodge need to change it at 30k with friction mod.
@@MarionBlair better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it. I swear when I buy my ram I'm gonna buy a half dozen of every filter and a bunch of fluids. When I walk out, if they ask if they can help. I'll just say me and Marion have got this covered. Cheers.
Always follow the recommendation of the AXLE manufacturer, not the Truck maker. Now with the web its easier. May need to call them if you can't find the data.
@@MarionBlair All depends on who you get. It is worth the effort to try. I'm sure you will be fine. Something else to consider is getting an infrared thermometer and checking the temp when you break from towing. BTW Gale Banks has some interesting vids up on how the fluid acts inside the carrier.
Great video however, at 72 yrs old had over a dozen "work" pickups towed heavy trailers with everyone and never changed rear diff fluid. I have neaver had to rebuild or replace rear. This is kinda like greasing cabon fitting on front driveshaft that NEVER TURNS!! Spending money unnecessarily.
I have talked to several diesel mechanics, and they recommend Not to change out rear differential fluid,, they stated it could cause problems down the road,, your thoughts
Experienced a bolt shearing off due to incorrect torque specs as well with my transmission pan. I've been running with the one bolt off and haven't had issues but if anyone knows what you do to fix it or a video on how to I'd love to know as eventually I'll be replacing the pan with the BD pan. I'll be going with the 25ft lb when I do my differential.
I just changed the rear differential fluid in my 2016 3500 and fluid level is to confusing. I ended up filling it until the fluid just started coming out the hole. Is this to much? Also, absolutely agree with the torque specs 30 lbs is to much. I was beginning to wonder if 24 was to much.
same here 25 was pushing a cart. I think It's okay to fill it to the hole lot of people do that. It is confusing I couldn't even get a straight answer out of American Axle engineer.
I recently read the online schedule and there saying under most conditions.You need to change it every 12 months or 15-20k miles. I tow about 15-20% of the time.Almost at 48k on my 2017. Time to change it?
My son has one with 250K on it and never been changed. Whisper quiet. 12 months and 15-20K is over-kill. I never realized how vague the manual is until you mentioned this. I think 60K is plenty safe fro 15 - 20% towing. And I wouldn't pull the cover again, I'd do it like I did the front one, (see video). Pump it out and pump back in. Easy and no real advantage to pulling the cover other than cleaning the cover.
Marion Blair I hear ya.Thank you Marion for all these awesome videos.I be have watching for two years now since I got my Cummins in 2018. I will do the pump out method and then replace.
It's been a long time but I filled it to the specs as best I could. I actually spoke to an American Axle engineer who was clueless. He said, no filling it to the hole is to save oil, ha. The fill line and the manual do not agree. You're on your own.
I don't think 30k is over kill. Ppl do engine oil at 3k and some will say that's over kill. I'm going to do mine im just over 30 and don't tow. It's cheap and I've had a ford with three diffs go. I undercoat wax maintain everything else makes no sense not to do diffs. Toyota has drain plugs on theirs that's easy
The newer gm trucks are the same. The 2500 up has that same rear. but I think my 1500 is the same where you fill it less then the hole but its different amount then the bigger trucks. nice video though
@@MarionBlair yeah what i gathered from watching banks testing. It seems they must use same cover for all but different manufactures mount axle at different angles so makes fill height different.
No, not recommended as long as you using their Mopar GL5. it has all the additives and everything needed for the Ram 2500 rear end. don't know if you're using aftermarket products. best thing to do, is give the parts Department your VIN number and they can look it up to make sure you're getting the right lube for it. Some axles require, not this particular one
Looked like oil was running out the bolt holes when you took the bolts out, if so A person could just take the lowest one out and drain it without removing the cover. at any rate, if it needs to be changed every 30,000 miles they should have put a drain plug in like rears on semis have.
You remind me of Clint Eastwood in Gran Torino.."ever notice that every once in a while you come across someone you shouldn't of f&@#3d with! Yeah, well that's me!".
Leonard, I see your point. Do you have a suction pump you can recommend, I'm going to do the front that way. I just picked up a Harbor Freight one that looks like it should work.
@@Kai_boogey www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle.html?CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FAutomotive%2B%2526%2BMotorcycle%2F%2F%2F%2FLubrication&RequestData=CA_CategoryExpand the multiuse transfer pump. works great
I got some valvoline 75W90 GL-5 synthetic gear oil that already has the limited slip in it, will this work? I know it says it does not require the LS additive?
That's the owner you want to buy a truck from
You're not old man..YOUR TOUGHER than 90% of males under 26 years old..GOD BLESS sir
THAT is a FACT!
There is no way the dealer would put the care you do into this. You are a perfectionist!! Great job
Wow, thank you!
My new favorite UA-cam mechanic. Love his speed and nothing over the top. Just what you need to know. Keep it coming Mr. Blair
Appreciate that
Talk about a comprehensive, to the point, straight-up walk through from a guy who clearly knows what he’s doing. This is how it’s done. New follower of this guy 👍
Awesome video!!! A trick I learned from my shop teacher back in High school is put you pinkie finger in the hole all the way to the back side of the cover in the hole. Bend you finger at the first joint down into the fluid. For me this is 3/4", so if I do this and the fluid touches the tip of my pinkie that means the fluid will be 3/4" inch below the top of the fill hole. Hope this makes sense, but works great! Obviously everyone's fingers are different so you will have to adjust accordingly... LOL
No going to lie, what I always do is just syphon out the old fluid through the fill hole and pump new in. Takes about 5 mins and no mess. Not the recommended way as I probably do not get 100% of the old fluid out, but now at 188k miles in my 2014 Ram 2500. No issues with either diff, and I own a pool construction company and pull 15k pounds nearly daily with it.
No crazy music simple and very to the point with quite a bit of information. Someone else suggested the pinky trick that’s an old trick I’m about to do mine for the first time will try that trick I have the same exact year Ram 2500 .......keep it up sir
Marion is spot on. You have a rubber gasket and 14 bolts, even twenty-five foot pounds is probably too much.
“Lint-free cloth looked everywhere and it was right under my nose.” 😂 I appreciate you greatly good sir. Good blessings sent your way on teaching this lad something new.
Did this job yesterday. Your video was extremely helpful. Thank you sir.
I enjoy watching your videos and I do my own maintenance on my Ram. Also, that gasket is 100% reusable, I just did mine yesterday.
Marion, thank you so much for the step by step overview. I changed the diff oil in my 3500 recently and your overview was extremely useful and gave me some confidence to knock it out. I reused the gasket and put 75W-140 in based on towing and dealer recommendations. Torqued each bolt to 23 lbs just to be cautious ans so far, no leaking. Took about 3.7 quarts in the 11.5 and the dealer recommended the LS additive, so I just put it in as they indicated, even if it wasn't required, it wouldn't hurt anything...
Sounds perfect, thanks. Yea, 23 ft/lbs is plenty IMO.
Friction modifier can in fact damage the type of LS diff in this truck due to the fact it is not a clutch style diff. Friction modifiers are extra slick so the clutches function properly. The modifier can make the diff gears slip more than they should and cause excessive premature wear.
Just did my 2017 2wd 6.7 2500. 94k on clock. Fluid was not that dirty. Still a brownish color. First fluid change ever on the diff. I tow about 15-30 times a year.
Filled it up with just over 4 quarts. I made a dip stick. But the fluid it so clear that it’s very hard to get a accurate reading. I will drive it for a few weeks and see it I can get a reading on it again.
Thanks for making the videos you do and go into details! Helps a lot!
And I agree no one really knows what the correct fluid level should be lol!!!
Always filled the diffs in the past until it started pouring out!
Nice video with good details. The ring and pinion in my 2018 had to be changed after 17K miles because of noise around 65mph. I had just returned from pulling my RV between Texas and California, and it was screaming when I finally got back home. My dealer rebuilt it under warranty, but I dumped the Mopar fluid and replaced with Amsoil because of recommendations from a local AAM axle shop. I now have 50K+ miles on the truck and the gears are still quiet as new. I would recommend to anyone that tows to replace the Mopar fluid with Amsoil.
Mine had to be replaced at 6,000 miles
I absolutely love this guy. My adopted grandpa.
You can only use the bolts the one time you have, next fluid change you will need to buy new bolts. You were correct about the stretch you put on them making them weak from the torquing If you do a lot of towing getting a aluminum cover helps with the heat. Thanks for the video
Yeah good advice
Did mine yesterday, except used your pump method from the front differential video. Worked great. Thanks
Yes, I'll do the pump method on both from now on.
Always love your videos. I honestly think these manufacturers come up with these insane maintenance intervals. They just want to get you back to shop to sell you something. 2013 Ram 3500, $199 to do that service. I’ll wait to 50,000 and do it myself. Have a Happy Thanksgiving.
Thanks Terry, Agree totally. I'm not going to pull that cover next time, I'm going to suck the oil out with a pump. In fact that's how I'll do the front, soon. The oil and gasket cost me about $160 with tax so that's a pretty good deal. I spent the hole day on it. My dealer charges an hour.
"If she comes out here and sees me not using it, she might be pissed" Amen brother better safe than sorry
Remember the SBC? twisting off those valve cover bolts on the old valve covers. That is where I learned.
Yea, I stripped the valve tappet adjustment threads once, That mistake was costly.
I like have you explain everything and show parts you buy, good job. Thanks again for good video
Thank you!
Thanks again for a very informative video. My new Ram is on the way and looking forward to a Cummins experience.
You'll love it
@@MarionBlair see you sold another Ram. They ought to put you on the payroll. At least supply you with all the parts and fluids you need to maintain tour truck.
You're like the uncle I wish I had living close by.
Thank you Marion for helping me maintain good maintenance practices on my 2018 Cummins...... saves me money and helps me sleep better. I also used 20 foot pounds on a wet bolt. Cheers Sir !
Changed mine out yesterday. Great instructional video. Had to use a plastic straw for my dipstick. Thanks for these videos.....
You are the best in the instructional video department. Keep em comin. I appreciate your time and your helpful videos.
Hey, thanks for the video. I have viewed a lot of your videos. And you do a great job. Thank you. The dealer near me where I have bought parts and fluid from had told me. That the differential front and back gaskets can be reused. You just have to check them for cracks and chips if they have none you can reuse it. I do have in my garage a new front and back DEF gasket in case I need it. But so far so good again thanks for the video.
Thanks for sharing
Thank you for the video sir. I've read 25-30lbsft is a good number. I'm sticking with 25.
Yes, in fact next time I'll use 20.
@@MarionBlair I agree- I would not go past 20 lb ft. There is a big difference between DRY thread and WET thread torque specs. When threads are wet you should reduce torque value by up to 25% depending on what kind of lube is on the thread.
@@MarionBlair going to do this project on my truck today or tomorrow, I have the limited slip as well. Would you still stick with a 20 ft lbs recommendation or would you say somewhere in the middle at 22-23 ft lbs?
I don't torque valve cover, oil pan , transmission or rear gaskets. I do the lock tite put bolts in hand tight then tighten in the pattern the book says. So far never had a leak.
"Dont let your torque wrench replace your common sense". Great advice.
I did AimsOil Severe Gear 75w140 rear with SkipLock pack Changed mine at 60k magnet was full and dirty like yours wish I would have changed it earlier . I got AimsOil $2 dollars a quart cheaper which is by far a better oil in my opinion. Now I need to do the front
This guy would be a great neighbor to live next door to.
If I recall correctly back in 03 when they first went to AAM Axles they had some issues with blown seals- and I think there was a TSB about revised oil level to 3/4 below the hole. Later trucks has a fill line stamped to the rear cover.
Rubberized gasket is reliably reusable. Cover bolts have been known to snap before reaching specified torque.
Your comments are very valuable. Sounds like you've been there and done that, ha
Don’t know too much about the current trucks, but I’ve had a couple 5.9 3rd gens. Like you, I like to do my own work, and am kind of meticulous about things.
Your channel is awesome.
You make great videos. Very concise and informative. Thank you sir!
Thank you very much for those kind words
I have seen where some folks are sucking the fluid out of these diffs and that maybe good enough but I feel like this is the way it should be done to make sure that you get as many metal shavings out as possible and to visually see that every thing is in good condition
Great videos. Clean, clear, concise.
Bench grinder with wire wheel is what I use to clean up bolts with.
Thanks, I will get one for my grinder.
Good vid!
Ok so a couple things. Check out Lube Locker gaskets. They are half the price, but I like them better than OEM gaskets. Reason being the OE gaskets are thick and don't go all the way to the edge of the flange. This allows dirt and mud to collect between the housing flange and cover causing rust.
As far as getting the old loctite off a Dremel equipped with a wire wheel works very well.
I think the OE bolts are junk. I replaced mine with ARP hardware. I also use low strength purple loctite on small hardware like this. Medium strength is overkill.
Pulling the spare out, dropping the swaybar out of the way and jacking the truck a bit will give you a direct line to all the hardware so you can use sockets. Crow's feet on torque wrenches are a pain in the ass. I prefer sockets.
I think the line on the pan is the minumum amount. That's the only thing that makes sense to me. My factory fill level was right at the hole. I filled it to just below the hole. I asked a buddy that has done many of these and he said if you stick your finger in to the first knuckle and bend it the oil level is fine as long as you feel the oil with your finger. Another buddy who works at Dodge said it's not super critical. Just get it close.
Excellent feedback Sal, thank you. I noticed that on the gasket, I didn't lie the way it trapped dirt. I'll check out the lube locker. Your answers address exactly what gave me the most headaches. I'm going to pickup a wire wheel for my dremel. On the access issue, Totally agree after doing it with the bars in the way. The crow foot is a total pain and the u joint was need often. I spoke with the local RAM service manager a couple days ago and he said the training he received on checking the level was exactly as your buddy said, level should be at your first knuckle on your finger. That's pretty close to the fill line. I wish RAM made that a little more clear in the manual.
Your comments much appreciated, thank you.
Happy to help.
@@salspec3381 Just looked at lube locker, that looks like a quality gasket at less than half the price I paid. thanks
Yes. I've used them and I like them. My only issue was UPS bent them in shipping, but the company sent new ones out right away.
Marion, my dad has a 2003 Chevy Duramax bought new he now has 300,000 miles on it and the rear diff fluid has never been changed and the brake fluid has never been changed and he's went through a few sets of brakes but he's never had a single issue from the rear diff or the brake system
I'm like you in the fact that I do it more frequently than required it's definitely overkill but I feel good about doing it
Yea, amazing isn't it. I'm like you, I guess I sleep better at night know I did my maintenance. ha
His diff is shot.
Love this channel. It’s relaxing for me. Even keeled and informative
Yes sir! love your videos. I’m a new 2015 ram Cummins owner. Love your videos very informative and clear thank you👍
Thanks
FYI on The 2015 they have a "fill line" indicator on the Diff Cover, which is @ 1/4 below the Hole. Like you I used to always filled them to the top, but, A lot of the forums I read "claim" the overfill is the cause for the seal leaks. P.S. I can also see this on your cover @ 9:51 mark, while you torque the bolts. Just to the left of center.
Thanks, Yes, I made a dipstick to check it at 17:30. On my truck the fill hole is 3/4" above the fill line.
I'll take one of those right angle measuring dip sticks for $49.99! Haha
Good stuff. Love your videos.
thanks
Tied bolts below recommended you always may tie if see leak. Boss just missed to say so.
I ran into those same contradictory specs on rear diff level as you did, I went with Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 and filled to 1/4 inch below fill hole.
Also after getting the truck home from dealer, I check all levels and the rear diff was 1/2 quart low, the front diff was a ridiculous 3/4 quart low,
dealers don't give a damn, they just want the 60 thousand dollars.
It's disgusting. I'm been corresponding with FCA and American Axle and ready to start drinking again. It's ridiculous. I'm so pissed about not being able to get an answer to a simple question. Still working on it.
@@MarionBlairDid you ever get the answer?
@@iwwqytv no, I talked to the engineer with American axle and he was useless, he thought it may be to save oil which is ridiculous. I just fill it to within a quarter inch of the fill hole. But I don’t think it would hurt a thing to fill it all the way up I think that’s what most people do.
@@MarionBlair Thanks for the reply, and the excellent series of videos you put out. Do you still utilize the method of suck suctioning out the out fluid without removing the cover?
Should have waited for the BANKS rear cover, so you can swap it in at the same time :) LOL
Yea, I've been watching his videos. Pretty cool.
Right, pay $400+ for a diff cover that does the same job as the AAM DRW cover which is around $189 on eBay.
BigBadDodge4x4
How much longer till banks comes out with his?
@@monsterram6617 Watch this video for an engineering analysis of the various differential covers.
ua-cam.com/video/vdtmDl5EDJ8/v-deo.html
Another fantastic video Marion, thanks a lot for doing these.
Today I took my 2016 to my long time trusted transmission shop to do a service on the transmission and transfer case. I was concerned about the transfer case because on a recent road trip, the truck unexpectedly tried to engage 4x4 low all by itself at highway speed! (not a pleasant sound...)
Anyway, they checked the level in the rear differential and discovered a lot of metal on the magnetic fill plug. They took a photo and suggested showing the dealer. (without changing it)
Did you discover any filings on yours? And, did you check the factory fill level before draining it?
I certainly share your phobia of over torquing. I'm forever over doing it and breaking something. I'm surprised I haven't snapped of an oil filter yet! lol
Sure wish you lived next door!!
Buy a wire brush wheel when you need to clean bolts or the old gasket sealer they use on the transmission pan for a drill it work wonders
U could have used RTV for your gasket. Most the time they don’t put the reusable gasket back on. The old 9.25 rear ends they don’t have a gasket even from the factory it just RTV
Good video, no nonsense approach.
In reference to your loctite cleaning, mount a wire brush to a tabletop, then run the threads through it with an impact driver.
Marion,
Thought I'd send you this bit of info. If you ever need more oem differential gaskets call Geno's garage. They carry the original factory parts for alot less cash. Rear gasket for your truck $24.84
Terry
Oh, wow, thanks, I paid over $44 for that rear gasket.
@@MarionBlair Not a problem. Always good to save a buck or two. The doggone dealers are so friggin expensive on EVERYTHING!! Keep those great vids coming. You are the best!!
Terry
Terry is dead on. Genos Garage is the place to go for MOPAR parts.
My son's 2016 Ram 2500 diff bolts were not that snug although some were awkward to get to, didn't require much cleaning either, but if you want to replace the bolts the dealer charges $7 each but my local parts store (Auto Zone) had them for a buck a piece, M8-1.25 X 20MM. If you don't have that many miles on the truck I would definitely recommend just doing a siphon and refill instead (like Mr. Blair did for his front diff), save the $60 gasket charge and finish in a fraction of the time.
Yes, I'll do that on the back also.
I wonder if my 2018 2500 is the same procedure, I'm too lazy to go look this Saturday morning. Lol! My truck only has 21,000 miles on it. But at 66 years old it's my lifetime dream truck, a Laramie Limited Tungsten Edition. Every option you can think of except suede headliner delete, yeah I had to settle, Lol! So I want to take EXTREME care of it, especially considering the majority of it's duty it exactly like Marion Blair's, towing a travel trailer. Mine weighs about 7,500 lbs loaded. I can dig out the Cat Scale numbers and also discuss fuel mileage if anyone is interested. On a stop over right now during an 8 state camper trip with a 29 ft travel trailer behind us most of the way. The majority of it at altitude in the northwest. The Cummins just plain kicks ass. The Ram 1500 that I traded in had a drain plug on the bottom, making it much easier to change although it did not give you the opportunity to for visual inspection, something you should consider under severe duty. Whoever purchased that half ton with 55,000 freeway miles on the clock got a very well maintained truck. Thanks for these videos Marion, I've watched every one and learned a learned a lot from them!!!!
Thanks very much, yes yours will be identical. But save yourself a lot of headache and work and get a little vacuum pump from O'Reilly's, AutoZone or wherever and just pumped it out and don't pull the cover. If you maintain the fluid from the beginning it's really not necessary in my opinion. With that track bar Etc in the way it's a real pain in the ass to pull the cover. I called my dealer to ask them how much labor they charge and they said $75 I said how do you do it, they said we Pump It Out.
Marion sorry for my slow reply to your quick response. Gathering parts for this project today, including a magnetic trey to keep in the trailer. Man those parts can fall straight through the earth's crust. You da man!
I've torched loctite and wire brushed before, works alright
Yeah I think next time I'll just buy some new bolts
Usually, there would be 10-15% subtracting yield torque value, so if there were slight leaks, then make it 24'ish.
I agree 25 ftlb should be enough that little bolt will break.
A pair of vice grips to hold the stud then turn the stud against a bench grinder with a wire wheel. All the rust and loctite will be cleaned off
Dont forget to blow the breather tube. My check valve was stuck and oil blew through the seals. Sucks having to spend $300 for front and $300 for rear.
Around 80k my driver's side rear seal went out. $30 and a few hours later it was as good as new. Now I _might_ pay someone to do the fronts, though.
Wow, Thanks I looked at it this morning but got lazy. We talked about it but didn't check it, I will check it, thanks.
thanks, I'm hearing more and more about leaking seals
@أبو داحم I just put the OEM stuff back in, it's 80 w or so.
@@monsterram6617 I would think the rear is tougher than the front?
The banks differential covers look great and well engineered but they’re definitely not cheap. I’ve had a few trucks in the past with hundreds of thousands of miles on them with the stock diff covers.....it’s all about the pm maintenance and the right foot not some fancy cover.
Thanks for the video. Be well!
Nice job. Thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Best method for removing the locktite is to simply leave it alone... another alternative would be a wire wheel on a bench grinder... but why?
Great point!
At 35k my 2017 3500 was chattering like a mother it would vibrate the mirrors. Had to use modifiers in it. I have never had to change rear fluid till after 100k u till I got to Dodge need to change it at 30k with friction mod.
Thank you Sir! Great video! 🍻
Drill 3/32nd hole in bottom of cover. Tap 1/4 threads. Get black faucet washer and 1/2 inch long screw and VIOLA! No pan removed for ever.
yea, they I did that on a fuel tank once. A pump works well also.
Found some on amazon lubelocker gaskets for 21 instead of 45 or 46 like mopar wants
You said with dry bolts foot pounds gets lowered when applying Loctite
I misspoke if that's what I said. The Loctite people recommend reducing applied torque by 20 percent from dry values
you can reuse the original gasket, they are reusable, just clean and install. I have done my 2500 4 times now with no issues at all.
Thanks, I saw it was in good shape so i've got a spare, I guess. $45!
@@MarionBlair better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.
I swear when I buy my ram I'm gonna buy a half dozen of every filter and a bunch of fluids. When I walk out, if they ask if they can help. I'll just say me and Marion have got this covered. Cheers.
hey quick question do you thing this service could be done without removing the diff cover by sucking the fluid out the fill hole?
Yes, just suck it out with a hand pump. That'll be the way I do this next and did it on the front
Always follow the recommendation of the AXLE manufacturer, not the Truck maker. Now with the web its easier. May need to call them if you can't find the data.
I talked to the engineer at American axle but he was CYA and pushed it off on RAM. I fill to the fill line. thanks.
@@MarionBlair All depends on who you get. It is worth the effort to try. I'm sure you will be fine. Something else to consider is getting an infrared thermometer and checking the temp when you break from towing. BTW Gale Banks has some interesting vids up on how the fluid acts inside the carrier.
@@latrogeniwile58 Yes, thanks.
It is NOT a limited slip rear end. It is a NO slip unit. There is a significant difference. No need for a gasket, just use RTV on the cover.
I wouldn't clean the loctite off of those bolts
Great video however, at 72 yrs old had over a dozen "work" pickups towed heavy trailers with everyone and never changed rear diff fluid. I have neaver had to rebuild or replace rear. This is kinda like greasing cabon fitting on front driveshaft that NEVER TURNS!! Spending money unnecessarily.
I have talked to several diesel mechanics, and they recommend Not to change out rear differential fluid,, they stated it could cause problems down the road,, your thoughts
Clean oil never caused a problem?
Yep, your right
Experienced a bolt shearing off due to incorrect torque specs as well with my transmission pan. I've been running with the one bolt off and haven't had issues but if anyone knows what you do to fix it or a video on how to I'd love to know as eventually I'll be replacing the pan with the BD pan. I'll be going with the 25ft lb when I do my differential.
I just changed the rear differential fluid in my 2016 3500 and fluid level is to confusing. I ended up filling it until the fluid just started coming out the hole. Is this to much? Also, absolutely agree with the torque specs 30 lbs is to much. I was beginning to wonder if 24 was to much.
same here 25 was pushing a cart. I think It's okay to fill it to the hole lot of people do that. It is confusing I couldn't even get a straight answer out of American Axle engineer.
Thank you sir, I hope you and your family are safe and healthy. If you ever come up to Alaska, look me up, got some great camping spots.
@@Win70ew Sure appreciate that, I envy you living in such a beautiful state. I do get to watch Alaska State Trooper however!
I like to chase threads with dies, nothing cleans up threads like chasing them.
agree
I recently read the online schedule and there saying under most conditions.You need to change it every 12 months or 15-20k miles.
I tow about 15-20% of the time.Almost at 48k on my 2017.
Time to change it?
My son has one with 250K on it and never been changed. Whisper quiet. 12 months and 15-20K is over-kill. I never realized how vague the manual is until you mentioned this. I think 60K is plenty safe fro 15 - 20% towing. And I wouldn't pull the cover again, I'd do it like I did the front one, (see video). Pump it out and pump back in. Easy and no real advantage to pulling the cover other than cleaning the cover.
Marion Blair I hear ya.Thank you Marion for all these awesome videos.I be have watching for two years now since I got my Cummins in 2018. I will do the pump out method and then replace.
Why can't you just remove the service plug, suck the fluid out with a hand pump and small hose, and refill?
That's what I'll do from now on.
you claim to be precise why are you filling it a quarter inch above the fill line?
It's been a long time but I filled it to the specs as best I could. I actually spoke to an American Axle engineer who was clueless. He said, no filling it to the hole is to save oil, ha. The fill line and the manual do not agree. You're on your own.
I don't think 30k is over kill. Ppl do engine oil at 3k and some will say that's over kill. I'm going to do mine im just over 30 and don't tow. It's cheap and I've had a ford with three diffs go. I undercoat wax maintain everything else makes no sense not to do diffs. Toyota has drain plugs on theirs that's easy
Yes and mine had some pretty tough Mountain Towing
WHATS THIS BREATHER TUBE I KEEP HEARING ABOUT , we need to blow it out ?
The newer gm trucks are the same. The 2500 up has that same rear. but I think my 1500 is the same where you fill it less then the hole but its different amount then the bigger trucks. nice video though
Appreciate that, Yea, the fill line is confusing but that's what I went with.
@@MarionBlair yeah what i gathered from watching banks testing. It seems they must use same cover for all but different manufactures mount axle at different angles so makes fill height different.
@@codyk3881 Yea, those banks videos are really informative. The one with the clear cover. I had no idea the oil is getting whipped up so much.
Thank you.
Aren’t you supposed to add in some type of lube to the rear diff? Helps with chattering and other stuff? I’m no mechanic just what I read.
No, not recommended as long as you using their Mopar GL5. it has all the additives and everything needed for the Ram 2500 rear end. don't know if you're using aftermarket products. best thing to do, is give the parts Department your VIN number and they can look it up to make sure you're getting the right lube for it. Some axles require, not this particular one
Great thanks for the info.
Looked like oil was running out the bolt holes when you took the bolts out, if so A person could just take the lowest one out and drain it without removing the cover. at any rate, if it needs to be changed every 30,000 miles they should have put a drain plug in like rears on semis have.
Yea. Agree. I'll pump it like I did the front next time.
Oh, and no, pulling a bolt doesn't drain it.
The owners manual says friction modifier not required in my book, so what harm will it do if I use it?
The OEM fluid has it in it.
Thanks so much-I’m learning so much about my 2015 2500 Laramie 😀
Glad to help
Do you use RTV in addition to the gasket?
No, the gasket is reusable and goes on dry..
You remind me of Clint Eastwood in Gran Torino.."ever notice that every once in a while you come across someone you shouldn't of f&@#3d with! Yeah, well that's me!".
Marion, thank you for these videos! Is it time to change the tranny fluid? Would love to see you make a video of that!
I'm working on that, eventually.
@MarionBlair invest in a lube locker gasket
If in doubt call the parts guy? Are you serious? I've never encountered a parts guy that had an IQ over 100.
Ha, yea
Hi. Do you have the link to get the small oil pump & suction pump like the one you used to do the front differential.. thanks
www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-63144.html
That’s why I use the vacuum machine method & just fill up to level . So much easier & no worries of stripping bolts . 🤙
Leonard, I see your point. Do you have a suction pump you can recommend, I'm going to do the front that way. I just picked up a Harbor Freight one that looks like it should work.
@@MarionBlair which pump did you buy? thx
@@Kai_boogey www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle.html?CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FAutomotive%2B%2526%2BMotorcycle%2F%2F%2F%2FLubrication&RequestData=CA_CategoryExpand the multiuse transfer pump. works great
i shake to but it really takes away from the video.
I got some valvoline 75W90 GL-5 synthetic gear oil that already has the limited slip in it, will this work? I know it says it does not require the LS additive?
Yes, RAM tells me the Mopar has the additive in it so it should be fine.
Wow, that was a lot of metal on that magnet. Did you Amsoil when you changed it before?
Mopar
@@MarionBlair I’m doing mine this week. I hope it doesn’t look like that.
4qt.