Thanks, very thorough and well explained video. I suspected my electric pump was gone, especially after tapping it with a hammer and it started to work again. I was worried about buying various parts that were not needed, but your video has confirmed it's most likely the electric pump.
Thank you for the spot on explanation . After 20 years having a failure on my mk3 were surprising but i am sure i will be fixing the issue with relays or accumulator easily. Thank you very much .
Hi found this as my accumulator faulty. Ordered one from UAE from a supplier I've used before. A few things I found on my MK3 2003 top right hand nut impossible to get easy access. Electrical cable fuses immobilizer in way I didn't replace it as yet. I had to remove complete ABS had old black sphere type. When replaced with new cylinder type. It fouled on the bracket had to cut away small section. Replacement of ABS not trouble free 3 of pipes screwed in ok 4th was a pain. Movement of pipes caused slight misalignment of the one. I've got to bleed system now but thanks for your video. Just a little heads up for anyone working on ABS. Information is always good 👍
Thanks for your reply a slight update. As I said it had to bleed, this was done but the motor pump restarts after a couple of pedal ops. The noise has disappeared.I'll have another try to bleed must be air in the system. Did a couple of emergency stops, all ok no pulling out of the straight line. If I don't come right I'll take it to brake place. One thing I noticed operated the brake to it was hard,level increases in the tank. Thanks
Concerning the bleeding procedure. I'm assuming you drained the booster tank mostly before you removed it? Did you just put some rags under the flare nuts when you bled the brakes that way? Did much brake fluid come out? I'm asking, because I don't have a stable or flat surface to work on currently, and can't move the Pajero. So I can't jack it up to reach the bleeder nipples. Thanks for your help Marius.
No, I didn't drain. Pajero sits high enough to reach bleed points. Not a lot of brake fluid emptied when opening nuts. I just rinsed with plenty lukewarm soapy water when finished as brake fluid eats paint.
Thanks for the video and explanation of what can fail. Recently picked up a lexus gx 470 and the motor is running constantly and when is off for a few seconds I can hear a hiss around the accumulator. Haven't seem any brake fluid leak. I'm going to replace the small o-ring on the accumulator threads and clean the plunger.
A hiss is probably internal high pressure bypass. Try testing your relays first to see if they are stuck in the ON position, overworking the pump. The accumulator is filled pump up with brake fluid. If the factory nitrogen fill has leaked out you will have no power assisted brakes and likely will have a bunch of error lights on the dash.
Hello sir. My 06 had the motor fail 4 mths prior. Replaced and was working fine. Had the accumulator chirp noise for a while. Noticed the accumulator started chirping when driving or coasting as well rather than only braking/releasing the brake. Bought a used accumulator and swapped. Now, the motor runs every 5-10 seconds and there is a slight hissing from the unit whenever the motor stops. No leeakage externally. Any ideas? No codes or warning lights. I stopped driving it. My country has no mitsu dealers so will have to import if i need the entire hbb unit. Thanks Edit: the pump does indeed stop. Sometimes, when you turn the key in the morning, pump runs for 30 seconds and stops. No hissing either. Then, if i press the pedal a few times, it starts acting up....running every 5-10 seconds and there is a slight hissing.
Press and hold the brake while idling. If the pedal stay gradually drops, then you have a master cylinder problem (or leak at the brake piston on one of the corners). If it stays stiff but HBB pump cycles, then you have an internal leak in the HBB which will need replacement as a whole. Remove accumulator (ignition off, pump brake 40 times - unscrew accumulator), then try to press the inside through the whole with a screwdriver. If it yields the accumulator is bad. If it's rock hard it's likely the accumulator is fine. If you know someone else with a pajero, swap out accumulators with him and see if the issue follows the accumulator.
Thanks for the reply! I'm going to be working on it today and I'll have a go at these diag tips you mentioned. Unfortunately, here in Pakistan, pajeros aren't very common. I will post back here once I've got the issue fixed for anyone else who has a similar issue. Thanks a lot!
@@MariusFourie Well, I have some good news. I did the tests you suggested. Pedal stayed firm, motor kept running every 5-15 seconds. Then, I removed the Accumulator and tried pushing with a screwdriver. Piston was solid. Then, I took the poppet valve and spring out to look down the hole where the Accumulator fits. I put my screwdriver in there which happened to be a magnetic screwdriver. Fished out a few very tiny pieces of metal. I then remembered the used accumulator I tried to install wasn't screwing in right. The first thread was a bit 'flattened'. I think some shaving fell into the hole. I cleaned it out, cleaned out the hole, and reinstalled the Accumulator. Lo and behold, everything seems back to normal. I took it on a drive around the neighbourhood and in town a bit. Seems to be doing fine. Will report back if I have any further issues, but I think I've solved my problem. Thanks!
@@norontboyz5949after the 3 months, is still working with no chirp noise? Or it came back? I'm thinking about give a try on unscrew the accumulator, check it out and screw it back.
Morning found this video which is very informative. I've a MK3 2002 ex UK in South Africa 3.5. Mines makes at screach on brake application. With switch off operate pedal about 20 times. Switch on ABS light on. Switch off then on it goes out. Suspect the accumulator but as it's 20 years old fitting an old one off same model could be faulty. Will the later MK4s fit straight onto mine as yours later model I've got the black round accumulator. Later ones are available but quite expensive from 2nd places. But obviously a lot cheaper than dealers. Cheers
Thanks for the awesome video. A couple of weeks ago I changed all my calipers and one of the calipers I bought was defective and bled out a lot of brake fluid. I got that problem fixed and now no matter what I do my brake pedal continually goes to the floor. I did find a Mitsubishi documentation that was almost 200 pages about the brake system and how to bleed them. I followed it exactly and my break pedal still goes to the floor. Should I go ahead and look at the master cylinder at this point or should I keep chasing possible air in the system
Have you tried bleeding while the engine is running? This is crucial for the rears. And actually makes bleeding the rears very easy. Just open the bleed valve and the abs pump will push the fluid through. Do some abs braking on gravel to get air out of the esp valve block.
Hi, thank you so much for this video. I own a 3.8l petrol pajero and the problem was that it had a continuously beeping sound with the abs light, asc off, traction light and brake light showing on the dash. I have just purchased a 2nd hand unit and have replaced it in the vehicle. The beeping sound has since turned off and so has the brake light. Everything else is functional however there are times when pressing the brake pedal I can hear noise from the accumulator. I did not perform any other tasks besides replacing the unit. Hoping you can give advice on what I should do etc whether its bleed the brakes .. really desperate for some help. Thank you
Brilliant explanation, thanks for sharing. I have a 2003 Pajero which is making an awful squeel when pressing the brakes. Sounds similar to the sound you described. Is replacing the reservoir fairly straight forward, as the sticker mentions to use caution high pressure nitrogen?
Hello from the Philippines. Got a little issue here. I was coasting thru traffic and noticed that my brake pedal does not return up right away. Little bit later, it works fine again. The symptoms is intermittent. Sometimes it goes right back, sometimes not. Pls. Help.. 😢
if those fog lights are aftermarket (I suspect they are they dont look like mine) can you let me know where you got them and if they were plug and play? Thanks!
hello sir i need your help .when i press the brake padail is going completely down maximum 10 times after coming hard .and after coming beep sound .2 piece second hand completely Assy masters cylinder with moters change.but still problem same please tell me next what remaining to cheak. 😢
Hey Marius, I've got a 2005 NP 3.8 litre petrol Pajero with the same Brake booster HBB. My issue is that I have aloud alarm, traction control & ABS lights on and the pedal is rock hard. When I turn the ignition on, I can hear the pump motor going, and then stops. I have zero knowledge on this type of brake booster, but it seems to me that the pump is switching off because there is adequate pressure in the accumulator. To the best of your knowledge, is that how the pump works? I would occasionally hear chirps sounds from the HBB. But that didn't happen very often. What re your thoughts please?
No. You can maybe pull a fuse or something but it's not recommended. If the HBB system isn't working you don't have power assisted brakes which makes the pajero extremely hard to stop. Extremely dangerous! If you have an issue, I recommend you fix it, or it could cost you your life... and maybe someone else's as well.
Thanx for the video, really helpfull. I got the same issue with my pajero 3.2/ 2010. I got that noise of pressure release valve from time time but i dont have any sound alarm or lights on my dashboard. Although i have been test the alarm: with ignition off pumped around 20 times brake pedal and alarm works. I got also autel ap200 and it dosnt show me any error stored in the system. Should i try in your check order: relay, hydroaccumulator, high press sensor…. Will appreciate any advice. Thx.
Hello Marius. Thanks for your video. I understood that the brake problem of my 2013 pajero full, s in the master cylinder. The over pressure sensor has failed. So, can i remove and clean it up?
Great video Marius, I have the 4 lights on the dashboard and buzzer going with no brakes and pedal hard, I can’t hear the pump running so I suspect the motor failed?
Good day, very informative video; My car is a 2004, Pajero 3.0v6 with 6g72 Engine. Please advice could worn out brake pads cause the buzzing issue when brake pedal is pressed? Because mine when I press the brake pedal 3 times with the engine off and ignition on I get the small buzz sound and an abs dash light! This is the exact sound it started doing a few days back, sometimes when u apply brakes to put on reverse it will make a continuous beeping sound then goes off after barely 5 seconds!
Thanks for the video, did you ever get around to pulling the electronics apart to establish if the low pressure sensor switch is serviceable/replaceable. I’m fairly sure I have the same issue but reluctant to spend the $3200 to replace the entire unit if I can replace the switch.
Hello, I am using a translator, I hope you can help me, I have a Mitsubishi Montero 3.2, it has the annoying beeping sound, the brake motor is on for about 10 minutes and then it turns off, I used it like this during this time, the whole problem It came after changing the brake pads and now the pedal feels a little spongy. 3 days ago I heard the sound like a screeching sound, I think it is the accumulator but I don't know if it is the failure of the engine not turning off. I hope you can understand what I say
Hi bro.What is the correct way of the accumulator removal?Hold and twist accum. from the top or using the spanner from bottom? Accumulator makes some metal noise when brake is released.
Hello, Thanks for the video. What can be the problem when pump is turning on so frequently, like if I'm pressing brake pedal and holding it, pump turns on in every 8-10 seconds, but booster cylinder doesn't have any weird sound, just vibrating.
Hello, Marius. Thanks for the detailed video! I had a brake failure a couple of weeks ago which turned out to be the pump motor, so I changed it out and the error lights switched off. Now whenever I press the brake pedal I hear a loud hissing sound and the pump motor turns on to re-accumulate pressure. Do you know what might be the issue?
Recently changed accumulator and system was working fine, until I heard that annoying sound from under the dash, again, however when I hear the sound, the brakes gets hard after a while, then I tap the accumulator and then I hear the motor comes in and starts pumping. I've tapped the reservoir and nothing, only when I tap the accumulator the motor comes In and I have brake again... What could be the cause?
Thank's for the Video,i got this system, mines a 2004 NP glx Australian 3.8L pajero, would be nice to know what a good one sounds and works like, eg does it make any charge up sounds.? just bought car few months ago and wondering if normal to hear a like a pump charge up cycle for eg 10seconds on key on then again for 3seconds again then stops. Brakes seem fine no lights on dash etc just i got no clue to what's normal on these 3.8L but looks just like your pump system..
1.Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (OFF) position. Depressurise the power supply system of the hydraulic brake booster (HBB) by depressing the brake pedal at least forty times until the pedal effort becomes high. 2.Check that the reservoir fluid level is at the MAX position. 3.Chock the wheels and release the parking brakes. 4.Turn the ignition switch ON, and measure how much time is elapsed after the pump motor starts until it stops. Standard value: 20 - 80 seconds 5.After the pump motor stopped, start the engine. The brake warning lamp should not be turned on. 6.Stop the engine, and then turn on the ignition switch again. 7.When the brake pedal is depressed four or five times, the pump motor should start and then stop. 8.Depress the brake pedal four or five times again, and then measure how much time is elapsed after the pump motor starts until it stops. 9.Depress the brake pedal fully consecutive 15 - 20 times for ten seconds. The brake warning lamp should illuminate and the buzzer should sound. Standard value: 2 - 11 seconds. caution : Turn the ignition switch ON, and wait for at least 120 seconds before carrying out the checks.
If the dashboard have 2 lights abs and hand brake lights it makes a sound like pip sound but the sound is contineus not breaks like pip. What could b the problem
Hello I have issue with my HBB, pump starts every 5 sec and accumulator cant hold pressure, I hear hissing from accumulator, its like air leak, but brake fluid flow immediately to reservoir and pump starts pumping to accumulator. When I turn key off, brake fluid flow to reservoir and brake pedal is very hard. I think there is mechanical issue with some leak, maybe accumulator or main piston seal in HBB, I want to remove accumulator and check small pipe and spring. Could you know, what is wrong with my HBB ?
@@MariusFourie I bought this accumulator maybe 3 years ago from dealer, they changed it and it didnt help, and they dont know what to do with it so they wanted change whole HBB for 3000 dollars. I didnt agree with it and I tried solve it myself, I found issue, it needed air bleed from brakes. I tried air bleed now and didnt help. If my issue is accumulator again I need to buy another from dealer for 400dollars.
@@MariusFourie i have the same problem for a Pajero 2004 , but i found that everyime i press the pedal some air bubbles came out to the resevoir, and the pressure drops
The HBB failed on my early 2008MY at 13 years/120k(kms). No warning lights or noises, but could only hold the car on the brakes for about 30 seconds, with the pedal sinking slowly, before the brakes released. There was absolutely no leakage anywhere so I concluded that fluid was creeping back past master cylinder seals - perhaps damaged/worn cylinder or seals? However, as far as I could discover, there are two pistons, one of which has a one-way bleed valve. Perhaps this failed? I wasn't able to locate spare pistons/seals in Philippines and eventually fitted a brand-new HBB. Someday I may dismantle the old HBB to investigate. I still haven't managed to bleed the system to my satisfaction, but it all works (with long pedal travel). Would a vacuum pump help or do I need to use an OBD ABS bleed function?
Pedal slowly creeping to floor is master cylinder or leak (fluid will go down in reservoir over time). Bleed as normal 500ml per corner but have the car idling when you do the rears.
@@MariusFourie absolutely no leak - the fluid level in the reservoir didn't budge even 1mm. It had to be bypass of the master cylinder seals/pistons. A year later, I installed a brand new HBB and have not had to top up at all in the 2½ years since. I still have the old HBB and may investigate when I have nothing more important to do! I will have another go at bleeding the system again, following your advice, to see whether I can get a firmer pedal.
I need help figuring out if my issue is the brush motor or the accumulator. I have the same NS but left hand drive so my assembly is on the opposite side of the engine compartment. When the brake boost pump kicks in I hear what I think is the brake pump motor pressurizing the accumulator (this sound ua-cam.com/users/shortsL6w9oR-j-vE). That lasts for about 3-5 seconds and then at the end when it stops I hear a nasty scraping sound for about 1 second. It sounds like this guys video (ua-cam.com/users/shortsRw-n64KUjz4) but just one time, not repeatedly. I'm nervous to drop 208USD on the accumulator if it's the brushes on the mechanical pump itself... it sounds like metal on metal scraping which makes me thing the electric motor. Ideas?
The noise on the second video is the pressure bypass valve. If the pump runs then stops, then the motor, relays and fuse is likely OK. If the motor continuously runs and you keep hearing the screech noise then the accumulator or valve body or pressure sensor has failed. Go to a breaker yard and ask if you can swap out as a test. Ignition off, pump brake 40 times, unscrew the accumulator, screw on new one. Make sure you don't lose the little shaft, spring and o ring when you unscrew. Start the car once swapped (no need to top up fluid) and see if everything checks out. Motor should stop in less than a minute to pressurise accumulator
@@MariusFourie Thanks for the quick reply. The screech noise is not continuous. It happens one time for about a second and does not repeat until the electric motor kicks in again to re-pressurize the accumulator. I'll see if I can test out another accumulator at a parts yard.
@@MariusFourie Sometimes, when I'm braking, I hear this noise like the second video for a very short time. It sounds something is not working as suppose. Should I go for a fix or something? I just bought this 2008 Pajero.
Hello Sir the video is helpful but at 4:28 i have that problem can you tell me exactly what is the reason doing that can you tell me please or can i get in touch with you direct via viber or whatsapp or somewhere where can we chat thank you
Thanks, very thorough and well explained video. I suspected my electric pump was gone, especially after tapping it with a hammer and it started to work again. I was worried about buying various parts that were not needed, but your video has confirmed it's most likely the electric pump.
Glad it helped
The best explanation I have heard so far for the problems that I have encountered
Thanks
Thank you for the spot on explanation . After 20 years having a failure on my mk3 were surprising but i am sure i will be fixing the issue with relays or accumulator easily. Thank you very much .
Glad it helped
Hi found this as my accumulator faulty. Ordered one from UAE from a supplier I've used before. A few things I found on my MK3 2003 top right hand nut impossible to get easy access. Electrical cable fuses immobilizer in way I didn't replace it as yet. I had to remove complete ABS had old black sphere type. When replaced with new cylinder type. It fouled on the bracket had to cut away small section. Replacement of ABS not trouble free 3 of pipes screwed in ok 4th was a pain. Movement of pipes caused slight misalignment of the one. I've got to bleed system now but thanks for your video. Just a little heads up for anyone working on ABS. Information is always good 👍
Thanks. Glad it helped
Thanks for your reply a slight update. As I said it had to bleed, this was done but the motor pump restarts after a couple of pedal ops. The noise has disappeared.I'll have another try to bleed must be air in the system. Did a couple of emergency stops, all ok no pulling out of the straight line. If I don't come right I'll take it to brake place. One thing I noticed operated the brake to it was hard,level increases in the tank. Thanks
Great informative video and I bet you've not used the 'spare' yet!
Not yet!
Concerning the bleeding procedure. I'm assuming you drained the booster tank mostly before you removed it? Did you just put some rags under the flare nuts when you bled the brakes that way? Did much brake fluid come out? I'm asking, because I don't have a stable or flat surface to work on currently, and can't move the Pajero. So I can't jack it up to reach the bleeder nipples. Thanks for your help Marius.
No, I didn't drain. Pajero sits high enough to reach bleed points. Not a lot of brake fluid emptied when opening nuts. I just rinsed with plenty lukewarm soapy water when finished as brake fluid eats paint.
Thanks for the video and explanation of what can fail. Recently picked up a lexus gx 470 and the motor is running constantly and when is off for a few seconds I can hear a hiss around the accumulator. Haven't seem any brake fluid leak. I'm going to replace the small o-ring on the accumulator threads and clean the plunger.
A hiss is probably internal high pressure bypass. Try testing your relays first to see if they are stuck in the ON position, overworking the pump. The accumulator is filled pump up with brake fluid. If the factory nitrogen fill has leaked out you will have no power assisted brakes and likely will have a bunch of error lights on the dash.
Hello sir. My 06 had the motor fail 4 mths prior. Replaced and was working fine. Had the accumulator chirp noise for a while. Noticed the accumulator started chirping when driving or coasting as well rather than only braking/releasing the brake. Bought a used accumulator and swapped. Now, the motor runs every 5-10 seconds and there is a slight hissing from the unit whenever the motor stops. No leeakage externally. Any ideas? No codes or warning lights. I stopped driving it. My country has no mitsu dealers so will have to import if i need the entire hbb unit. Thanks
Edit: the pump does indeed stop. Sometimes, when you turn the key in the morning, pump runs for 30 seconds and stops. No hissing either. Then, if i press the pedal a few times, it starts acting up....running every 5-10 seconds and there is a slight hissing.
Press and hold the brake while idling. If the pedal stay gradually drops, then you have a master cylinder problem (or leak at the brake piston on one of the corners). If it stays stiff but HBB pump cycles, then you have an internal leak in the HBB which will need replacement as a whole.
Remove accumulator (ignition off, pump brake 40 times - unscrew accumulator), then try to press the inside through the whole with a screwdriver. If it yields the accumulator is bad. If it's rock hard it's likely the accumulator is fine.
If you know someone else with a pajero, swap out accumulators with him and see if the issue follows the accumulator.
Thanks for the reply! I'm going to be working on it today and I'll have a go at these diag tips you mentioned.
Unfortunately, here in Pakistan, pajeros aren't very common.
I will post back here once I've got the issue fixed for anyone else who has a similar issue.
Thanks a lot!
@@MariusFourie
Well, I have some good news. I did the tests you suggested. Pedal stayed firm, motor kept running every 5-15 seconds.
Then, I removed the Accumulator and tried pushing with a screwdriver. Piston was solid.
Then, I took the poppet valve and spring out to look down the hole where the Accumulator fits. I put my screwdriver in there which happened to be a magnetic screwdriver. Fished out a few very tiny pieces of metal.
I then remembered the used accumulator I tried to install wasn't screwing in right. The first thread was a bit 'flattened'. I think some shaving fell into the hole. I cleaned it out, cleaned out the hole, and reinstalled the Accumulator.
Lo and behold, everything seems back to normal. I took it on a drive around the neighbourhood and in town a bit. Seems to be doing fine. Will report back if I have any further issues, but I think I've solved my problem.
Thanks!
@@norontboyz5949after the 3 months, is still working with no chirp noise? Or it came back? I'm thinking about give a try on unscrew the accumulator, check it out and screw it back.
Morning found this video which is very informative. I've a MK3 2002 ex UK in South Africa 3.5. Mines makes at screach on brake application. With switch off operate pedal about 20 times. Switch on ABS light on. Switch off then on it goes out. Suspect the accumulator but as it's 20 years old fitting an old one off same model could be faulty. Will the later MK4s fit straight onto mine as yours later model I've got the black round accumulator. Later ones are available but quite expensive from 2nd places. But obviously a lot cheaper than dealers. Cheers
Good morning Marius, Very informative and helpfull. Where is the best place to find
a good second hand HBB ?
You'll have to try your local breaker yards
Thanks for the awesome video. A couple of weeks ago I changed all my calipers and one of the calipers I bought was defective and bled out a lot of brake fluid. I got that problem fixed and now no matter what I do my brake pedal continually goes to the floor. I did find a Mitsubishi documentation that was almost 200 pages about the brake system and how to bleed them. I followed it exactly and my break pedal still goes to the floor. Should I go ahead and look at the master cylinder at this point or should I keep chasing possible air in the system
Have you tried bleeding while the engine is running? This is crucial for the rears. And actually makes bleeding the rears very easy. Just open the bleed valve and the abs pump will push the fluid through. Do some abs braking on gravel to get air out of the esp valve block.
Hi, thank you so much for this video. I own a 3.8l petrol pajero and the problem was that it had a continuously beeping sound with the abs light, asc off, traction light and brake light showing on the dash. I have just purchased a 2nd hand unit and have replaced it in the vehicle. The beeping sound has since turned off and so has the brake light. Everything else is functional however there are times when pressing the brake pedal I can hear noise from the accumulator. I did not perform any other tasks besides replacing the unit. Hoping you can give advice on what I should do etc whether its bleed the brakes .. really desperate for some help. Thank you
bleed the brakes all four corners. Bleed conventionally while car is idling. If this fails then the accumulator may be faulty on new unit.
@@MariusFourie after I bleed all brakes what should I expect or are there any further steps I should take?
Brilliant explanation, thanks for sharing. I have a 2003 Pajero which is making an awful squeel when pressing the brakes. Sounds similar to the sound you described.
Is replacing the reservoir fairly straight forward, as the sticker mentions to use caution high pressure nitrogen?
ignition off. pump brake pedal fourty times. unscrew. make sure the rod and spring doesn't fall out and get lost. simple.
Hello from the Philippines. Got a little issue here. I was coasting thru traffic and noticed that my brake pedal does not return up right away.
Little bit later, it works fine again. The symptoms is intermittent. Sometimes it goes right back, sometimes not. Pls. Help.. 😢
sounds like a bad brake master cylinder
@@MariusFourie so i have to replace the whole assembly? Accumulator included??
if those fog lights are aftermarket (I suspect they are they dont look like mine) can you let me know where you got them and if they were plug and play? Thanks!
I bought the car like that. Sorry man. No idea where they came from.
hello sir i need your help .when i press the brake padail is going completely down maximum 10 times after coming hard .and after coming beep sound .2 piece second hand completely Assy masters cylinder with moters change.but still problem same please tell me next what remaining to cheak. 😢
sounds like a bad master brake cylinder
Hey Marius, I've got a 2005 NP 3.8 litre petrol Pajero with the same Brake booster HBB. My issue is that I have aloud alarm, traction control & ABS lights on and the pedal is rock hard. When I turn the ignition on, I can hear the pump motor going, and then stops. I have zero knowledge on this type of brake booster, but it seems to me that the pump is switching off because there is adequate pressure in the accumulator. To the best of your knowledge, is that how the pump works? I would occasionally hear chirps sounds from the HBB. But that didn't happen very often. What re your thoughts please?
Start by changing the accumulator
@MariusFourie is it supposed to leak all the brake fluid on the accumulator back to the reservoir over night?
No, it's not supposed to do that
Can you unhook the buzzer sound
No. You can maybe pull a fuse or something but it's not recommended. If the HBB system isn't working you don't have power assisted brakes which makes the pajero extremely hard to stop. Extremely dangerous! If you have an issue, I recommend you fix it, or it could cost you your life... and maybe someone else's as well.
Can you replace the accumulator P/N 4630A012 with a 4630A011? The 4630A011 is the round black type accumulator.
Not sure. It might work but the gold can is the new one. I'd stick with that on such a critical component of the car.
Thnx for vidéo
I fit the abs unit and then it adjusts automatically or does it need to be reprogrammed or cleared?
It clears on it's own
@@MariusFourie thnx 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Hi Marius I have a 2012 pajero to which the brake pedal gets stuck down every now and than any ideas as to the problem please
probably a failing master cylinder seal.
@@MariusFourie thanks is this an easy fix or do I need to replace the master cylinder
When I search brake master cylinder it comes up with the brake master cylinder accumulator will replacing this fix the problem do u think
Thanx for the video, really helpfull. I got the same issue with my pajero 3.2/ 2010. I got that noise of pressure release valve from time time but i dont have any sound alarm or lights on my dashboard. Although i have been test the alarm: with ignition off pumped around 20 times brake pedal and alarm works. I got also autel ap200 and it dosnt show me any error stored in the system. Should i try in your check order: relay, hydroaccumulator, high press sensor…. Will appreciate any advice. Thx.
Hi. Start with relay and then replace accumulator.
Hello Marius.
Thanks for your video.
I understood that the brake problem of my 2013 pajero full, s in the master cylinder.
The over pressure sensor has failed.
So, can i remove and clean it up?
The sensors are in the unit. You have to change the whole unit unfortunately.
Great video Marius, I have the 4 lights on the dashboard and buzzer going with no brakes and pedal hard, I can’t hear the pump running so I suspect the motor failed?
check the relays and fuse first. If that is good then the little electric brush motor has failed
Good day, very informative video; My car is a 2004, Pajero 3.0v6 with 6g72 Engine. Please advice could worn out brake pads cause the buzzing issue when brake pedal is pressed? Because mine when I press the brake pedal 3 times with the engine off and ignition on I get the small buzz sound and an abs dash light! This is the exact sound it started doing a few days back, sometimes when u apply brakes to put on reverse it will make a continuous beeping sound then goes off after barely 5 seconds!
Check fluid level. Yours is likely accumulator. swap that first.
Thanks for the video, did you ever get around to pulling the electronics apart to establish if the low pressure sensor switch is serviceable/replaceable. I’m fairly sure I have the same issue but reluctant to spend the $3200 to replace the entire unit if I can replace the switch.
no, I haven't opened it yet unfortunately
Hello, I am using a translator, I hope you can help me, I have a Mitsubishi Montero 3.2, it has the annoying beeping sound, the brake motor is on for about 10 minutes and then it turns off, I used it like this during this time, the whole problem It came after changing the brake pads and now the pedal feels a little spongy. 3 days ago I heard the sound like a screeching sound, I think it is the accumulator but I don't know if it is the failure of the engine not turning off. I hope you can understand what I say
Hi bro.What is the correct way of the accumulator removal?Hold and twist accum. from the top or using the spanner from bottom? Accumulator makes some metal noise when brake is released.
ignition off, pump brake pedal fourty times then just unscrew anti clockwise.
Hello, Thanks for the video. What can be the problem when pump is turning on so frequently, like if I'm pressing brake pedal and holding it, pump turns on in every 8-10 seconds, but booster cylinder doesn't have any weird sound, just vibrating.
could be a leak in master cylinder or bad accumulator
How do I get replacement parts or entire system for my RHD 2008 Mitsubishi Pajero into Jamaica 🇯🇲 🤔. Thanks
Hi. No idea. Sorry
On a Pajero np2002 all of a sudden got a high constant beep maybe goes for a min or two then constant all lights on dash no brakes could you help
Could be electric motor on pump or unit itself. You will have to troubleshoot
Hello, Marius. Thanks for the detailed video!
I had a brake failure a couple of weeks ago which turned out to be the pump motor, so I changed it out and the error lights switched off. Now whenever I press the brake pedal I hear a loud hissing sound and the pump motor turns on to re-accumulate pressure. Do you know what might be the issue?
Perhaps it needs a proper bleed. Remember the car needs to idle when bleeding the rears.
Thanks for the suggestion. Turns out that is exactly what’s been wrong. When I bled the rear brakes last time the car was off. Thanks again 👍👍
How much did you pay for secondhand unit?
R11500 (South African rands)
Can you tell me where ,if you got the website pls .from. Angola
Recently changed accumulator and system was working fine, until I heard that annoying sound from under the dash, again, however when I hear the sound, the brakes gets hard after a while, then I tap the accumulator and then I hear the motor comes in and starts pumping. I've tapped the reservoir and nothing, only when I tap the accumulator the motor comes In and I have brake again... What could be the cause?
I suspect the electric brush motor is tired. Have it repaired or replaced.
Thank's for the Video,i got this system, mines a 2004 NP glx Australian 3.8L pajero, would be nice to know what a good one sounds and works like, eg does it make any charge up sounds.? just bought car few months ago and wondering if normal to hear a like a pump charge up cycle for eg 10seconds on key on then again for 3seconds again then stops. Brakes seem fine no lights on dash etc just i got no clue to what's normal on these 3.8L but looks just like your pump system..
1.Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (OFF) position. Depressurise the power supply system of the hydraulic brake booster (HBB) by depressing the brake pedal at least forty times until the pedal effort becomes high.
2.Check that the reservoir fluid level is at the MAX position.
3.Chock the wheels and release the parking brakes.
4.Turn the ignition switch ON, and measure how much time is elapsed after the pump motor starts until it stops.
Standard value: 20 - 80 seconds
5.After the pump motor stopped, start the engine. The brake warning lamp should not be turned on.
6.Stop the engine, and then turn on the ignition switch again.
7.When the brake pedal is depressed four or five times, the pump motor should start and then stop.
8.Depress the brake pedal four or five times again, and then measure how much time is elapsed after the pump motor starts until it stops.
9.Depress the brake pedal fully consecutive 15 - 20 times for ten seconds. The brake warning lamp should illuminate and the buzzer should sound.
Standard value: 2 - 11 seconds.
caution : Turn the ignition switch ON, and wait for at least 120 seconds before carrying out the checks.
@@MariusFourie Very Cool, will give me a baseline to condition for sure..Thank You.
In my case, the pump comes in for 3 or 4 seconds everytime I press the brake pedal. Sometimes I hear the relief valve chirpin sound.
@@maiqueldeivit8197 yes i watched a video on that not a good sign the chirp bit "wear"..mine seems to be within specs as described by OP.
Bro
I have been in the same issue. Really need to replace the whole Hydraulic brake booster assembly.
Where can I buy please?
Try your local scrap yard
If the dashboard have 2 lights abs and hand brake lights it makes a sound like pip sound but the sound is contineus not breaks like pip. What could b the problem
post a video. Could be a bunch of things. You will have to work through the system step by step. Fuses, relays, motor, accumulator
Hello I have issue with my HBB, pump starts every 5 sec and accumulator cant hold pressure, I hear hissing from accumulator, its like air leak, but brake fluid flow immediately to reservoir and pump starts pumping to accumulator. When I turn key off, brake fluid flow to reservoir and brake pedal is very hard. I think there is mechanical issue with some leak, maybe accumulator or main piston seal in HBB, I want to remove accumulator and check small pipe and spring. Could you know, what is wrong with my HBB ?
swap out the accumulator or test with friend by swapping out. That's the cheapest check.
@@MariusFourie I bought this accumulator maybe 3 years ago from dealer, they changed it and it didnt help, and they dont know what to do with it so they wanted change whole HBB for 3000 dollars. I didnt agree with it and I tried solve it myself, I found issue, it needed air bleed from brakes. I tried air bleed now and didnt help. If my issue is accumulator again I need to buy another from dealer for 400dollars.
what could be the problem if sometimes the brake pedal is spongy?
generally air in the system. Start by bleeding all four corners. Rears need to be bled with engine running.
@@MariusFourie i have the same problem for a Pajero 2004 , but i found that everyime i press the pedal some air bubbles came out to the resevoir, and the pressure drops
Sir my pajero hbb brake padel is spongy.suddenly press the padel is normal.but normal apply the breke paddel is spongy .whate the problem sir
what year model? Spongy brakes usually means air in the system. Do a full bleed as a start. Rears need to be bled with engine idling.
@@MariusFourie sir I am just brake bleeding star but suddenly traction,abs, parking light show and continue buzzer on.new problem show sir.
@@MariusFourie code show 57accum prs low just showing code
Nice one love it
Thanks for watching
The HBB failed on my early 2008MY at 13 years/120k(kms).
No warning lights or noises, but could only hold the car on the brakes for about 30 seconds, with the pedal sinking slowly, before the brakes released. There was absolutely no leakage anywhere so I concluded that fluid was creeping back past master cylinder seals - perhaps damaged/worn cylinder or seals? However, as far as I could discover, there are two pistons, one of which has a one-way bleed valve. Perhaps this failed?
I wasn't able to locate spare pistons/seals in Philippines and eventually fitted a brand-new HBB. Someday I may dismantle the old HBB to investigate.
I still haven't managed to bleed the system to my satisfaction, but it all works (with long pedal travel).
Would a vacuum pump help or do I need to use an OBD ABS bleed function?
Pedal slowly creeping to floor is master cylinder or leak (fluid will go down in reservoir over time). Bleed as normal 500ml per corner but have the car idling when you do the rears.
@@MariusFourie absolutely no leak - the fluid level in the reservoir didn't budge even 1mm. It had to be bypass of the master cylinder seals/pistons.
A year later, I installed a brand new HBB and have not had to top up at all in the 2½ years since. I still have the old HBB and may investigate when I have nothing more important to do!
I will have another go at bleeding the system again, following your advice, to see whether I can get a firmer pedal.
I need help figuring out if my issue is the brush motor or the accumulator. I have the same NS but left hand drive so my assembly is on the opposite side of the engine compartment. When the brake boost pump kicks in I hear what I think is the brake pump motor pressurizing the accumulator (this sound ua-cam.com/users/shortsL6w9oR-j-vE). That lasts for about 3-5 seconds and then at the end when it stops I hear a nasty scraping sound for about 1 second. It sounds like this guys video (ua-cam.com/users/shortsRw-n64KUjz4) but just one time, not repeatedly. I'm nervous to drop 208USD on the accumulator if it's the brushes on the mechanical pump itself... it sounds like metal on metal scraping which makes me thing the electric motor. Ideas?
The noise on the second video is the pressure bypass valve. If the pump runs then stops, then the motor, relays and fuse is likely OK. If the motor continuously runs and you keep hearing the screech noise then the accumulator or valve body or pressure sensor has failed. Go to a breaker yard and ask if you can swap out as a test. Ignition off, pump brake 40 times, unscrew the accumulator, screw on new one. Make sure you don't lose the little shaft, spring and o ring when you unscrew. Start the car once swapped (no need to top up fluid) and see if everything checks out. Motor should stop in less than a minute to pressurise accumulator
@@MariusFourie Thanks for the quick reply. The screech noise is not continuous. It happens one time for about a second and does not repeat until the electric motor kicks in again to re-pressurize the accumulator. I'll see if I can test out another accumulator at a parts yard.
@@MariusFourie Sometimes, when I'm braking, I hear this noise like the second video for a very short time. It sounds something is not working as suppose. Should I go for a fix or something? I just bought this 2008 Pajero.
Dommage il parle pas français ne comprend rien
L'anglais est la langue mondiale. Ma première langue est l'afrikaans
Hello Sir the video is helpful but at 4:28 i have that problem can you tell me exactly what is the reason doing that can you tell me please or can i get in touch with you direct via viber or whatsapp or somewhere where can we chat thank you