I left the white-collar world some time ago and dropped back into the blue-collar world where I am much happier. My son asked me what the difference was and I said: " Working guys are much more willing to share their knowledge and help you out on day-to-day things." This is a good example of that. Thanks for the video, I have a Sears Super 12 that needs a starter/generator rebuild and I will be ordering this kit.
Very helpful video. Just did my first 24 volt on JD 4020. Working great. Video was identical to my project. A fight broke out in a repair forum about whether or not it should be polarized. I did, or at least think I did. Anyhow, works great!
Thanks for the video Norman, I just picked up a 1969 Sears Super 12 and it has this system on it, my other Sears are newer 1973 ST12 and 1974 ST16, all good stuff. I will be in contact with you when I need any parts in the future.
Thanks for that video Norman , I have 4 Sears garden tractors , all with the solid state systems and stator systems. My Aunt gave me my Uncles 74 Cub Cadet before She passed last year , it has the 10 Horse Kohler and a Delco starter/generator that doesn't charge , I will be getting in touch when I start on it this year , I have a few things left to finish up my ST16 I started last year .
Something to consider on the copper mating surface (commutator) on the armature. If the surface has any grooves in it from bad or worn out brushes, most shops put the armature in a lathe and turn that surface smooth, an easy fix if you don't have a lathe is to chuck the armature into a drill press, with slow speed and use a strip of fine emery cloth to take out the grooves. This helps to give the brushes good contact for proper output and lower the arching of the brushes which also keeps the armature cooler. Hope this makes sense.
never use emery cloth on electrical contacts, unless you can scrupulously clean them.. bad practice.. also you may need to under cut the mica,,in this video you see adequate groove depth.
Overall a good video...I think you should elaborate a little at the end when you are polarizing the generator...it is an important step that many may not be aware of
Is it even possible to change the rotation? If so, how? I have one that rotates clockwise, and I need it to go counterclockwise ( as viewed facing the pulley) . You are a real blessing to this tremendous avocation!
@@Isavetractors Does that mean different field coils, or change the location of the coil wires, or change the position of the coils? Hey, thanks for nswering me!
Nice video. Some rebuild kits come with the rotor, when do you need a new rotor? Mine is a positive ground. To test the generator with a battery, do I hook the positive cable to the frame and the negative to the armature?
I have a d/r 1011699 starter generator I’m working on I opened it up the brushes had crumbled a small black wire is laying loose I don’t know where it connects it’s hard to get a close up of your video any ideas? I ordered a rebuild kit from your company it hasn’t came yet thank you, Rob S.
Just what I was looking for. Very well put together. If I wanted to powder coat the case and end caps do I need to remove the windings and brush assembly? Can they take the 500 degrees for the curing process?
Nice video! What is a safe solvent to use for cleaning the electrical stuff, armature, field magnets, etc. so as not to harm the insulating varnishes and such when it was manufactured? I once saw just using an air blow gun, just how much carbon was blown out from in between the windings on the end of the armature. Also, just curious if you know what the original Delco Remy part number was for the brushes?
How were you able to get the pulley off before taking the generator apart? The pulley on the one I have is stuck so I can’t get the cap on the pulley side off. And also the bearing on the other side is stuck on the armature and did not come off with the cap. I can’t get either the pulley or the bearing off the armature after trying to pry them off. Any recommendations?
I have a Simplicity 728 that uses a bushing . The bushing looks good but the wick is toast. Where can i get a new one or is there a new way of oiling it . Any help would be great .
Whatever became of the starter you bought here in Kennebunk last year? Haha, I've been waiting for you to do this video, I'd left a note inside the case.
Baldwin587 oh yes! I saw that note! I already rebuilt that one. I was looking for your email to send you a message about that. now I can't remember where I put that note
Hi Norman, great video. I am not confident that I have the OEM spec pulley size on the starter/generator on my 444(K321), do you know what the stock spec is for this?
Always great videos Norman! Do you usually find the fields to be in good condition and not need replacing? How would you determine if they are not? Thanks
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. An easy to way to make sure your fields are good is to take a set of jumper cables, and jump the "A" terminal of the starter/gen and then quickly remove power from the A and go to the F terminal. Your motor will suddenly slow down, indicating your field coils are good. You can also test with an ohm meter.
Norman I hear it’s fairly easy to rebuild one of these starter generators to output BOTH 6 Volts AND 12 Volts? Ever do one? We have a 1920’s Buick and would like to have two outputs w both 6 and 12 volts!
I have a cub 104 & when I field test the starter Generator it turns slow & growls..... the tractor has a brand new fully charged battery... would this kit help the problem I'm having?
Yes. Your brushed may be worn. Try tapping the side of the starter/gen with a small hammer. Be gently. If it turns better than it may indicate your brushes need replacement. You may also just have a bad ground connection. Sand the metal where you attach your negative cable, and make sure the connection is really good.
isavetractors I purchased this kit from you & it works great! My s/g has the bushing in it & was wore out so that's what was causing the noise... thanks for a good product & fast shipping!!!
What was the diagnosis of the problem to begin with? Maybe it was something other than bad brushes. Maybe the windings? You should discuss the initial problem to begin with.
What can I do to replace the two threaded studs on the outside for positive and negative terminals? Mine still holds the nut tight but there is only 1 or 2 threads available after tightening. I also beleive mine does not charge anymore. I remember reading information about that issue a few years ago but I can't remember if this rebuild kit will resolve that issue or not
Those are called insulated terminals. You can replace them and re solder the wires from the field coils. Or you can run a thread die through them to repair the threads.
@@Isavetractors I'm trying to replace a damaged pully and going to try a strap wrench to try and keep it from spinning while I loosen the nut. Dont have a 3 jaw puller on hand.
Can you give a little better view of where the black cable is connected and an explanation of what you are doing when you touch the jumper cable towards the end of the video to the terminals on the starter...thank you
@@Isavetractors I have one last question there was a big square notch that kept the bearing from coming off the pulley side. I tried hammering it off but it wouldn't come off. So I just left on the front bearing that was in it. What should I do?
Just out of Curiosity I have my generator off at the moment I tried to turn the key on and crank it over just to see and nothing. Now before I took it off it didn’t do that now if that’s normal what the frig is going on
Your Starter/Gen needs to be be grounded to work. So if you kept the wires on, and removed the starter gen and tried to turn the key, nothing will happen until that ground connection is restored.
I left the white-collar world some time ago and dropped back into the blue-collar world where I am much happier. My son asked me what the difference was and I said: " Working guys are much more willing to share their knowledge and help you out on day-to-day things." This is a good example of that. Thanks for the video, I have a Sears Super 12 that needs a starter/generator rebuild and I will be ordering this kit.
Very helpful video. Just did my first 24 volt on JD 4020. Working great. Video was identical to my project. A fight broke out in a repair forum about whether or not it should be polarized. I did, or at least think I did. Anyhow, works great!
Coming back to this video before I got to work on a Simplicity 700 on the yard, fingers crossed its all good. Cheers
Again Thank you Norman got one to rebuild for a Kohler 8 horse wheel horse your the man.
Thanks for the video Norman, I just picked up a 1969 Sears Super 12 and it has this system on it, my other Sears are newer 1973 ST12 and 1974 ST16, all good stuff. I will be in contact with you when I need any parts in the future.
Thanks for that video Norman , I have 4 Sears garden tractors , all with the solid state systems and stator systems. My Aunt gave me my Uncles 74 Cub Cadet before She passed last year , it has the 10 Horse Kohler and a Delco starter/generator that doesn't charge , I will be getting in touch when I start on it this year , I have a few things left to finish up my ST16 I started last year .
Suburban all the way chief! St12 roars while the wheel horse b100 sleeps.. Getting close on the rebuild there though!
@@harryray4123 Love the Suburbans!! I had a 1969 SS 12 with a Tecumseh HH120. Her name was Michelle and she is on the Sears suburban registry.
Excellent presentation.
Great visual explanation. I like your complete parts kit too. I’ll be ordering from you when a rebuild is needed.
Great video norman thank you
Something to consider on the copper mating surface (commutator) on the armature. If the surface has any grooves in it from bad or worn out brushes, most shops put the armature in a lathe and turn that surface smooth, an easy fix if you don't have a lathe is to chuck the armature into a drill press, with slow speed and use a strip of fine emery cloth to take out the grooves. This helps to give the brushes good contact for proper output and lower the arching of the brushes which also keeps the armature cooler. Hope this makes sense.
never use emery cloth on electrical contacts, unless you can scrupulously clean them.. bad practice.. also you may need to under cut the mica,,in this video you see adequate groove depth.
Overall a good video...I think you should elaborate a little at the end when you are polarizing the generator...it is an important step that many may not be aware of
Fantastic video,.. but I had a bushing and can't figure out how to take the old bushing out.. I'm going to leave the old one in.
The trick i use the most is running a tap through the bushing them turn a bolt through it to get it out
Great video
Yall need to make one that has the bushing in the end.. that i dont know how to replace.
Awesome video. I may need to rebuild mine. It’s on the list of things to fix.
How about a video showing the replacement of the field coils?
excellent video,thank you
Is it even possible to change the rotation? If so, how? I have one that rotates clockwise, and I need it to go counterclockwise ( as viewed facing the pulley) . You are a real blessing to this tremendous avocation!
You would need to change the field coils
@@Isavetractors Does that mean different field coils, or change the location of the coil wires, or change the position of the coils? Hey, thanks for nswering me!
Is the pulley nut a reverse thread?
Nice video. Some rebuild kits come with the rotor, when do you need a new rotor? Mine is a positive ground. To test the generator with a battery, do I hook the positive cable to the frame and the negative to the armature?
Negative to negative and positive to positive
I have a d/r 1011699 starter generator I’m working on I opened it up the brushes had crumbled a small black wire is laying loose I don’t know where it connects it’s hard to get a close up of your video any ideas? I ordered a rebuild kit from your company it hasn’t came yet thank you, Rob S.
Nice job. As always awesome video.
Thanks!
How long would shipping take for the rebuild kit because i wanna rebuild mine before a wheelhorse show
Just what I was looking for. Very well put together. If I wanted to powder coat the case and end caps do I need to remove the windings and brush assembly? Can they take the 500 degrees for the curing process?
Hmmm...I would take out the windings before the heat treat process
Nice video! What is a safe solvent to use for cleaning the electrical stuff, armature, field magnets, etc. so as not to harm the insulating varnishes and such when it was manufactured? I once saw just using an air blow gun, just how much carbon was blown out from in between the windings on the end of the armature. Also, just curious if you know what the original Delco Remy part number was for the brushes?
How were you able to get the pulley off before taking the generator apart? The pulley on the one I have is stuck so I can’t get the cap on the pulley side off. And also the bearing on the other side is stuck on the armature and did not come off with the cap. I can’t get either the pulley or the bearing off the armature after trying to pry them off. Any recommendations?
I have a Simplicity 728 that uses a bushing . The bushing looks good but the wick is toast. Where can i get a new one or is there a new way of oiling it . Any help would be great .
Whatever became of the starter you bought here in Kennebunk last year? Haha, I've been waiting for you to do this video, I'd left a note inside the case.
Baldwin587 oh yes! I saw that note! I already rebuilt that one. I was looking for your email to send you a message about that. now I can't remember where I put that note
Hi Norman, great video. I am not confident that I have the OEM spec pulley size on the starter/generator on my 444(K321), do you know what the stock spec is for this?
Always great videos Norman!
Do you usually find the fields to be in good condition and not need replacing? How would you determine if they are not? Thanks
Hi Chris, thanks for the comment. An easy to way to make sure your fields are good is to take a set of jumper cables, and jump the "A" terminal of the starter/gen and then quickly remove power from the A and go to the F terminal. Your motor will suddenly slow down, indicating your field coils are good. You can also test with an ohm meter.
@@Isavetractors If the motor doesnt slow down when switching power to F terminal, will this rebuild kit fix it?
Norman I hear it’s fairly easy to rebuild one of these starter generators to output BOTH 6 Volts AND 12 Volts? Ever do one? We have a 1920’s Buick and would like to have two outputs w both 6 and 12 volts!
nice job
Do u have new terminal studs? Both of mine snapped off, didn't know if they came w kit
Very helpful video, i just ordered this kit. I am very excited not to have to buy a new one
How can you change the direction of a starter generator from counter clockwise to clockwise?
By changing the field coils
@@Isavetractors take the field coils and make them switch sides?
Can you do this on the kohler k series starter generator
This starter gen is from a Kohler K series
I have a cub 104 & when I field test the starter Generator it turns slow & growls..... the tractor has a brand new fully charged battery... would this kit help the problem I'm having?
Yes. Your brushed may be worn. Try tapping the side of the starter/gen with a small hammer. Be gently. If it turns better than it may indicate your brushes need replacement. You may also just have a bad ground connection. Sand the metal where you attach your negative cable, and make sure the connection is really good.
isavetractors I purchased this kit from you & it works great! My s/g has the bushing in it & was wore out so that's what was causing the noise... thanks for a good product & fast shipping!!!
You're welcome! I am glad it solved your problem!
What was the diagnosis of the problem to begin with? Maybe it was something other than bad brushes. Maybe the windings? You should discuss the initial problem to begin with.
Just a video demo. Routine maintenance
hey norman, do you guys carry kits for Bosch starters? on a JD 210...thx.
Does this fix the generator if it was not charging?
I have a 1974 ford lgt and the brakes dont really work any clue what i need to do to get them to work?
I have 3 tractors with the same engines with starter/generators but why does one turn the engine over faster than the other 2?
The faster one has better electrical connections allowing better flow of electricity.
@@Isavetractors ok
I have one off of a kholer 8 hp I need to know which one to buy
Check out our website. All the parts fit your starter gen
What can I do to replace the two threaded studs on the outside for positive and negative terminals? Mine still holds the nut tight but there is only 1 or 2 threads available after tightening. I also beleive mine does not charge anymore. I remember reading information about that issue a few years ago but I can't remember if this rebuild kit will resolve that issue or not
Those are called insulated terminals. You can replace them and re solder the wires from the field coils. Or you can run a thread die through them to repair the threads.
@@Isavetractors i need to look at mine again at take a closer look. But it's just a bolt with a wire soldered to it? Basically?
Pretty much with a plastic insulator between the body and the nut
does anyone have a link to the post? mine are stripped
Do you know where to get any transmission gaskets for the old Sears suburban ss15 tractors
At this point you may be better off using rtv sealant
Really wish you’d show how to do one with a single bearing. No idea how to get the other end apart
Tap it and run a bolt through it
Well that blew out the cap. Thanks now I have to look for one of those
How did you get the pulley off?
I normally use 3 jaw pullers but sometimes I have to cut them off and replace the pulley.
@@Isavetractors I'm trying to replace a damaged pully and going to try a strap wrench to try and keep it from spinning while I loosen the nut. Dont have a 3 jaw puller on hand.
Rather, I'm trying to remove a good pully from a bad generator to replace a damaged pulley on a good generator
If the brushes are bad, will this affect the generator function as well as the starter or will it affect only the starter function?
It will affect both
@@Isavetractors Thanks.
How does the pulley come off? Is there a key way or is it threaded? I tried a puller and didn’t seem to move.
It's a keyed shaft. Remove the nut then remove the pulley. If yours is really stuck on there you may have to cut it off and replace the pulley
Ohh yeah this one is really stuck. Puller wouldn’t do the trick. Grinder it is
You need to purchase a part's washer machine. Make cleaning your dirty grease part's up easily .
Can you give a little better view of where the black cable is connected and an explanation of what you are doing when you touch the jumper cable towards the end of the video to the terminals on the starter...thank you
Black cable is simply connected to the housing of the starter/gen for ground. I am essentially jump starting the starter with the jumper cables
now i have to find a field coil replacement video... to be sure i place them in rite so on.. total rebuild of stgen
Is your Your Rebuild Garden Tractor's Starter Generator kit still available? If so Where can I purchase it
How do you get pulley off a starter
A 3 jaw puller normally. If its really stuck on there you will probably bend the pulley with a puller but you can just replace the pulley
@@Isavetractors I have one last question there was a big square notch that kept the bearing from coming off the pulley side. I tried hammering it off but it wouldn't come off. So I just left on the front bearing that was in it. What should I do?
Are you talking about the woodruff key that's in the shaft?
@@Isavetractors yes
Thank you
Mine starter worma but doesn't produce voltage on the generator output wire to charge battery. Any ideas?
My started generator the magnet inside the housing the wire broke loose how do I fix it or do I have to get a new magnet
cleaning the interior improve cooling..
Just out of Curiosity I have my generator off at the moment I tried to turn the key on and crank it over just to see and nothing. Now before I took it off it didn’t do that now if that’s normal what the frig is going on
Your Starter/Gen needs to be be grounded to work. So if you kept the wires on, and removed the starter gen and tried to turn the key, nothing will happen until that ground connection is restored.
What happens if your stator has lost magnetism?
NIce, but it would have been more helpful if it started with removing the pulley.
Wat does it mean if it turns the engine over fine but it doesn't keep a battery charged
Bad Battery, Bad Regulator, bad wiring are possible causes.
What should I do if it won't stay polarized I have to polarize every time I use it
I need the wiring diagram
See our website for wiring diagrams
how much is your starter gen rebuild kit?
$24.99 plus shipping
Why didn't you include removing the pulley? That's probably the trickiest part.
that is a rude introduction with the loud sounds
Bogus. The bearings don't come out that easy.
Yep. I used magic and camera tricks to trick you.