Very IMPORTANT, always do a proper shut down cycle if the heater is hot . NEVER unplug power while unit is HOT ,it must cool down properly. Always power it on a 12v battery to avoid sudden grid power failure and use a battery charger/maintainer to keep your battery topped up. My 2 cents 😊.
Hi,Cody. For best safety use the hard nylon fuel line. It is the proper stuff for these heaters and is far more robust and heat proof than any PVC plastic fuel tubing. Also make sure the fuel filter is fitted between the fuel tank outlet and fuel pump intake so it protects the pump from debris in the fuel.
Good chance most auto parts stores will have spools of fuel rated hose that can be cut to length. Filter between tank and pump is key to ensure no debris get sucked into the pump.
@@Kdille179 Would it be a bad idea to put a filter before and after pump. Filter after tank Incase of fuel contaminants, and one after pump Incase of pump failure sending debris through. Or would it slow the fuel down to much?
@@kjbutler1312What if you just filter all of the the fuel before it goes into the tank? Drop in filter at the fill hole works, this has a plastic gas tank so you wont get much rust except the fittings. Filters always create resistance so I'd only want it after the pump to protect the engine.
For those of us without ProHo disposable income, the US General line of toolboxes from Harbor Freight is surprisingly good. Way better than I expected. I like mine better than the Craftsman box I used to have.
Agree. I have a 20+ year old Craftsman top and bottom. But IMHO, the US General LIne is better probably the best value item at HF. Felt that way for years.
You don't have to be proho to obtain snap on boxes. He is correct finding them second hand is the way to go. I bought a 30k dollar retail setup for a couple grand top box bottom box and locker. I have less money into it than a US general series 3
Like mine way more than the husky I had. I wouldn't buy a new one at the price they want for em now tho. The box I got is over 50% more now so id be taking cash to some guy on marketplace
I would recommend using the hard plastic line instead of soft line because as it pulses it makes the pump push the tube outward like a balloon the hard white plastic line stops this from happening and you get a more consistent burn
@@vortexan9804 Unlike a water system, there is no pressure or compression on the outlet end of this fuel line. It just pools in the cylinder (what Cody calls a "turbine") and burns under forced air.
@@vortexan9804 he is right. You are right about how to correct water hammer but this is a diesel heater and there is no need to worry about 'hamner'. These are pulse pump and soft pipe can sap the pressure it creates. For the length of fuel line in Cody's heater the difference is minimal but hard nylon line is still the correct pipe to use. The correct nylon pipe also had a much smaller I.d and so holds a lot less liquid. Diesel is a compressible liquid so less liquid means less pressure lost from the pump. I'm not saying the pipe in the video doesn't work but it's not the proper way to do it.
@@vortexan9804 The standard fuel line on most of the reputable/reliable brands is the hard nylon type. It has been on my diesel heater for the last 4 years since I first purchased the unit. The softer more flexi line like this stuff he has just fitted is nowhere near as heat proof ,tough or long lasting as the hard nylon line.
I would recommend a third watch on the other arm. Redundancy is key to a proho. But seriously. Did I miss something on why we’re wearing two watches???
Time is limited gotta keep extra track of it lol i wear 2 watches sometimes but one is ofc a smart watch but i really miss my analog watches so i wear both one on left and one on right.
Depending on your elevation you can also put it in altitude mode where a small mountain will appear on the screen you do this by pushing the okay button at the top and the gear button at the same time for 5 seconds
Hi Cody. Have a look at the hard nylon line, soft line is not the best choice to use with a pulse pump as it expands with each pump and saps the pressure. The hard nylon line should be butted right up to the spigots on the pump and inlet and some of the softer pipe over the top as a coupler with proper hose clamps on both sides. The soft line is ok between the tank and the pump as there is no pressure. I would also put the filter between the tank and the pump. Two reasons, its not under pressure and also, the pump is also succeptible to damage from contaminated fuel
@@brianmcsorley3229 I wouldn't. It's creating extra fail/leak points and also if you use a decent filter there is no need for a second. If your using cheap filters that don't filter, a second one isn't going to do much.
After I discovered Knipex, I stopped buying anything else. They aren't cheap but my grandkids will still be using them (and thanking me for my choices in life...at least where tools are concerned).
Hold on a second, I have the kobalt tool chest with drawers, and I absolutely love it. Two +years it hasn't rusted, drawers still pull and shut smoothly.
I've ran a garage and wrecker service for 35 years and I always install fuel filters on equipment if it is not equipped with it. And the lines I always check for failure and replace regularly. Keeps down alot of problems. Thanks for the heads up. God bless. Tennessee, our
I installed one in my truck bed setup and am living outta it all winter. Keeping me cozy. I didn't know that about the fuel lines! Very thankful for this info! 🙏
Lots of good points here. Yes, a filter is necessary -- diesel loves to pick up little bits of debris. That's sort of a given, a less recognized issue is water from the air. I think that WS is in a western inland area that's mostly dry but most of us aren't so lucky; if you have air in a fuel container, temp and air pressure (barometric) will cause humidity from the air to condense out and that liquid water has nowhere to go except into the fuel, *everyone* will get it, the people is the best environments will get less but there will be some everywhere. I like a see-through filter mounted horizontally so that any drops of water will settle out into the "bulge" in the filter (remember to check it occasionally for a while -- if you do, you will find water so often that you'll quickly get in the habit of checking it often). Water in your fuel will corrode internal components and will likely breed microbial growth that will gum up everything and block filters and operating parts. Water is very bad in diesel or home heating oil -- and the fuel tanks of vehicles and diesel powered equipment. Having your fuel tank set up so that you're not drawing from the bottom of the tank is good, too. You can do that by having your connector fitting a fraction of an inch above the bottom of the tank or -- more fiddly -- using a rigid standpipe. A separate drain/sample fitting at the lowest point is useful, too. Your air inlet mod is super tidy, too. Nicely done. I like the Australian's videos on diesel heaters, too. There's some good info around. On the subject of the irritating fuel pumps, I've seen a Canadian video that solves the problem by not using one. These (simple, ratty, noisy, Chinesium) pumps don't build any pressure, they're just a drip feed One video shows a way to just eliminate it and use a medical drip-feel adjuster with a gravity feed tank, It takes a little fiddling with it to keep it feeding just the right amount but (on the video, at least) it works like a charm and it's doesn't appear to be a bother in a shop etc. where you can monitor it occasionally. An issue is that the software in the heater computer calculates the amount of fuel that it thinks that it needs and it does that by counting the number of clicks from the pump. That means that you have to run a pump but you can do this on a remote pump with a circular feed into a mini-tank. All it takes is extending the leads to reach the pump under the stairs, in the back of a closet, even outside if that's the best for you. (Somebody who knows how them little electrictons run around in them computers can probably work out a way to put a resister, etc. in the connectors so the computer thinks it's controlling and monitoring a pump anyway.) Priming is also manual, but it that's too tricky for you, you got no business fooln' around with one of these things anyway. I appreciate your work, WS. And, yeah, all of Knipex's clippers/pliers, etc/tools are super nice to work with.
They are ESbar Clones if your looking for the orignal. They have been used for years to heat a semi without running it. Great Heaters! Run good fuel and filters to make em last!
As a ProHo you should always keep a spare fuel line and filter in your front left vest pocket, next to your hand whittled tobacco pipe and multi-tool. 👍
Good on you to see something and thought to say something about fixing it. I watched the video the other day and thought the line looked weird and where the filter. My grandfather taught me alot and I pass that on to my son. My son say the video and said the same thing.
I have 3 of these at the shop. They are the bees knees. I wired them in series to use 110/220 via an old pc power supply I had laying around. Bolted them to a piece of 5/8” plywood. Heats the entire place if need be.
I mentioned yesterday it's always good not to shut it off during a shutdown process you should tell people this as well because it can damage the computer module inside if you disconnect it before it's cool down process
FYI T&B offers a tool for zip ties that draws the tie and flush cuts it in one motion. It is adjustable to the size of the tie. I’ve been looking at these diesel heaters for overland camping. Thanks for the good info as always.
yes, I had (maybe still have, need to go check) the t&b tool you are talking about, it was actually really nice... but mostly because I made my place of employment at the time purchase them lol! 👍🏽
It seems like the exhaust can be harnessed to make even more heat than the unit is designed for, by making a coil of copper pipe coming from the exhaust and placing a fan to blow air over the coil.
Have a look at bobil water heaters. It uses the air ducting to heat water. People are also using egr coolers on the exhaust to heat water. Copper coil will work too and some people have gone even more basic by routing the exhaust directly through a tub of water and even sand to make a sand battery.
Good updates with the improved fuel line and filter. The high startup current draw is for the ignition glow plug. For all the 12v projects you could get into with the bikes and all, a bench-top adjustable DC power supply would be pretty handy, and even pretty affordable ones would be able to supply the required amperage for devices like this. If you want another rabbit hole to go down, look into the Afterburner controller that you can get for these CDHs. It will act as a true thermostat, more like what you would have had with the Espar system.
@@White000Crow the problem is that they won't cycle the heater on and off based on a temperature setpoint. They will keep running continuously. I've been using one to heat my greenhouse, and it's a bit of a hassle manually turning it on and off. The Afterburner controller can manage the system much more efficiently.
@@alaskanhomesteading it only cycles the heater from minimum to maximum. I run one in my RV and it will hold within 1-2°F. It only really becomes an issue when it’s a warmer day and it gets too hot. I personally believe that it’s not great for these to cycle on and off all the time.
I especially like his fuel filter installation. The point is to make the unit safer he has made it worse. Besides trying to keep everything spotless as he goes. I made to 11 minutes with multiple fast forwards to eliminate the endless tool commercials.
Diesel fuel Dosent Burn or combust From hot items or flames It only Combusts under High pressure so it spilling on the exhaust wont catch anything on fire but nice upgrades Cody @WranglerStar
Im a plumber and i installed one of this heaters in my work crafter. I measured the fumes and set the rate of fuel so that the co is as low as possible. Its working since more then three years without any Problems and when its really cold i let it run the whole day. Only the display backlight got dim.
East coast man here, ignore all the haters! Your jokes make my day hahaha If you can get your hands on an "SPG International" tool box, you wont regret it. Steel tube frame and none of that crimped edge bs.
Hi Cody! Im a fisherman in Canada and we have been using these for a while now. They work well but do not like dyed fuel. When switched back to clear diesel we have never had another issue. Act accordingly 😂
I bought a diesel heater recently and I turned it on and ran it for a while. Started seeing leaking and took it all apart and thought maybe I spilled diesel around the tank. So I put it back together and then a puddle of diesel around it. So I took it all apart again and kept wiping and found that the fuel filter actually failed and cracked brand new out of the box. So I got actual black fuel line and cut it and used actual steel clamps and clamped everything down and then primed. No leaks ever since.
11:16, the intake attachment being secured to the bottom of the unit, after the holes have been made though the thin sheet metal: Perfect application for Rivnuts and a metal band. Yea, parts list goes up, but you get a "store bought" finish. Parts: Subtract zip ties, add: 4 rivnuts 4 small bolts 2 steel straps Or maybe just two bolts and one strap? In this application, probably more than sufficient...
Hello Cody. FYI. While red diesel is generally speaking the same as clear diesel with the exception of the dye. The dye itself is yet another carcinogenic. Indoor kerosene heaters are required to run clear kerosene for this very reason. Plus red fuel has a more pungent smelling exhaust. Clear fuels may provide for a less smelly heat source
Snap-On boxes are the best in the world with a lifetime warranty.. Screw the haters. even if you were a chef using a Snap-on don't let them get to you! Seeing your selection and describing the tool you sir are an Expert.
Had one of these diesel heaters for over a year. Kept us warm camping in the snow at 0 degrees. Love these things. Definitely swap that fuel line. Also buy some decent hose clamps. The ones that come with it are pretty trash
Great advice, but one more thing gives me the jitters, the fact that they have put a fuel tank directly above the heater, I would mount the tank in a different location.
Make sure you oil those GodHand nippers. I got into model kits recently and didn't realize that just my fingers touching them to brush bits of plastic off would cause them to rust.
East coasts man laughs while you make a bigger fire hazard in front of your east coast wood stove. 😂 I do love your channel. Merry Christmas to you and yours L
From what I have seen on UA-cam, most of the cigarette lighter ports are not good enough to start these diesel heaters up. That 30 amp one will do it just fine or go directly to a battery is your best bet if you have one laying around.
I installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my 6x12 cargo trailer conversion... I spent all my effort making sure I properly exhausted the unit through my 1 inch insulated wall using a thru-hull stainless outlet as well as using high-temp RTV around my exhaust hose with high quality hose clamps, and thought everything was great.. I now know that I need to also properly setup a thru-hull port for the combustion intake (away from the exhaust). These devices are primitive.. don't trust that the exhaust flow will happen in one direction with 100% certainty... and don't expect your Home Depot CO detector to save you either.. I've smelled the funky smell, and let it go... and it made me pretty sick.. Don't ignore it... do it right. ...also, if you drop the diesel pump frequency, the exhaust-to-intake leak is even worse... Treat the combustion intake just as important as the exhaust itself.
If you use 12ga wire, a bluetti eb3a will handle the start up amps, contrary to what most people say. Have it videod for reference. Generally most people say they need to use a jackery.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around why a West Coast man needs 2 watches? Us East Coast men, at least the Southeast coast men wear one watch to tell time.
An issue with those soft flexible fuel lines is that they affect the fuel pressure, causing reduced fuel efficiency. You can get hard plastic fuel lines like the ones used on boats for example that eliminate the fuel pressure issue. Edit. Ah I see several people have already explained this.
Cold air intake is NOT a requirement.... The extra energy from cold air density is negligible when low energy diesel combustion is at play. The problems of carboning up are exacerbated by the heat lost to raising this airs temp. I also slow the heat removal to keep the combustion temp up.. keep fans on the exhaust, and keep the exhaust constantly going down.
Always appropriate your advice on tools. My Dad was not a tool guy and I only do small tinkering but it's nice to have something that makes you feel good using it. Question, what's up with two watches?
Your mod with the air intake is going to have the combustion air being taken from the living quarters instead of outside. Assuming you are going to be having the exhaust exiting outside, this will create a vacuumn inside the living quarters bring cold outside air into the living quarters.
It’s crazy the day mine arrived you lost a video on it😂. These things are super fun to mess with. I would recommend learning how to tune it properly to make it last forever. Can send info if needed.
My old man literally just baught one, he opened the box like and hour ago, what are the odds I open youtube and this is the first video my algorithm throws at me.
The hose swap is a well documented item. Ideally you should be using the hardwall hose that originally came with the Espar units. Like the "hateful metric system" lol too funny!
That tick tick of the fuel pump is because it's an electric diaphragm pump. I replace most of the factory mechanical pumps on lawnmower type engines with them.
1:50 I found that exact pry tool in the road one day. Was kinda beat up and my stuff is green. So I asked my snap on guy how much for a green handle and he just gave me a brand new one! Free and brand new!
🔗 Get the SILVEL Diesel Heater: amzn.to/41pF4XF
Knipex Flush Cut Pliers: amzn.to/47Y27eu
Fuel Filter (correct one) amzn.to/3GQFNYc
(amzn.to/3GMPdUy)
Peace and blessings brother Yah bless you and the family. Enjoy your content. Some of the best stuff under the firmament!!
why do you have your watches on the right arm? are you mixed handed because you appear to be using your right hand a lot?
We need an update on your chainsaw and Dolmar quick fill plunge. I need some of those! I can’t find them anywhere 😂
Very IMPORTANT, always do a proper shut down cycle if the heater is hot . NEVER unplug power while unit is HOT ,it must cool down properly. Always power it on a 12v battery to avoid sudden grid power failure and use a battery charger/maintainer to keep your battery topped up.
My 2 cents 😊.
Wranglerstar I need you to finally answer my question please 🙏 why do you where two watches? 😊
Filter is installed backwards, and I'd also recommend you install the filter between the tank and pump, not between pump and burn chamber.
I agree as I installed the filter before the pump to avoid any pump blockage.
can't tell if it's blocked up if the contaminants go to the inside.
He is a west coast guy give him a break 😂
@@jimcricket71yeah that west coast magic.
Also; why not a nylon fuel line which offers you actually some kind of heat resistance?
The Chinese six year old chained to his workstation who assembled that thing is doing his best. Cut him some slack.
its a honest days work
Xi does not approve of this message
I dunno why this cracked me up.
He definitely earned his rice.
@@aaronhiggs Same, it's not often I actually laugh
Hi,Cody. For best safety use the hard nylon fuel line. It is the proper stuff for these heaters and is far more robust and heat proof than any PVC plastic fuel tubing. Also make sure the fuel filter is fitted between the fuel tank outlet and fuel pump intake so it protects the pump from debris in the fuel.
That's what I did to mine. I also upgraded the wiring harness.
Good chance most auto parts stores will have spools of fuel rated hose that can be cut to length. Filter between tank and pump is key to ensure no debris get sucked into the pump.
@@Kdille179
Would it be a bad idea to put a filter before and after pump. Filter after tank Incase of fuel contaminants, and one after pump Incase of pump failure sending debris through. Or would it slow the fuel down to much?
@@kjbutler1312What if you just filter all of the the fuel before it goes into the tank? Drop in filter at the fill hole works, this has a plastic gas tank so you wont get much rust except the fittings. Filters always create resistance so I'd only want it after the pump to protect the engine.
BTW, the quiet fuel pump is about 15 dollars, not 50. Act accordingly.
For those of us without ProHo disposable income, the US General line of toolboxes from Harbor Freight is surprisingly good. Way better than I expected. I like mine better than the Craftsman box I used to have.
Agree. I have a 20+ year old Craftsman top and bottom. But IMHO, the US General LIne is better probably the best value item at HF. Felt that way for years.
You don't have to be proho to obtain snap on boxes. He is correct finding them second hand is the way to go. I bought a 30k dollar retail setup for a couple grand top box bottom box and locker. I have less money into it than a US general series 3
Been using mine for 10 years everyday professionally with no issues. Overloaded and works as well as it did new
Whatever you have to tell yourself to justify buyin an item made from slave labor.
Like mine way more than the husky I had. I wouldn't buy a new one at the price they want for em now tho. The box I got is over 50% more now so id be taking cash to some guy on marketplace
I would recommend using the hard plastic line instead of soft line because as it pulses it makes the pump push the tube outward like a balloon the hard white plastic line stops this from happening and you get a more consistent burn
How about a braided metal line...
Don't agree, it would act more like a regulator, that's why they use balloon diaphrams for homes that have water hammer issues.
@@vortexan9804 Unlike a water system, there is no pressure or compression on the outlet end of this fuel line. It just pools in the cylinder (what Cody calls a "turbine") and burns under forced air.
@@vortexan9804 he is right. You are right about how to correct water hammer but this is a diesel heater and there is no need to worry about 'hamner'. These are pulse pump and soft pipe can sap the pressure it creates. For the length of fuel line in Cody's heater the difference is minimal but hard nylon line is still the correct pipe to use. The correct nylon pipe also had a much smaller I.d and so holds a lot less liquid. Diesel is a compressible liquid so less liquid means less pressure lost from the pump.
I'm not saying the pipe in the video doesn't work but it's not the proper way to do it.
@@vortexan9804 The standard fuel line on most of the reputable/reliable brands is the hard nylon type. It has been on my diesel heater for the last 4 years since I first purchased the unit. The softer more flexi line like this stuff he has just fitted is nowhere near as heat proof ,tough or long lasting as the hard nylon line.
The fuel filter should be between the tank and the pump to protect both the pump and the burner..
Stop, you're making too much sense!
The filter was also installed backwards…
I love how wholesome he is when cutting the hose ❤ love you mate I burried my best friend today and that made me smile thanks mate
That fuel filter got installed backwards.
That fuel line sleeve was definitely good enough for Government work.
Yes, where failure is the standard.
I would recommend a third watch on the other arm. Redundancy is key to a proho.
But seriously. Did I miss something on why we’re wearing two watches???
I was going to ask the same question!
Because Qanon told me him so
I was curious about this as well
Time is limited gotta keep extra track of it lol i wear 2 watches sometimes but one is ofc a smart watch but i really miss my analog watches so i wear both one on left and one on right.
He loves to troll the trolls is all
Depending on your elevation you can also put it in altitude mode where a small mountain will appear on the screen you do this by pushing the okay button at the top and the gear button at the same time for 5 seconds
What does this do
Hi Cody. Have a look at the hard nylon line, soft line is not the best choice to use with a pulse pump as it expands with each pump and saps the pressure. The hard nylon line should be butted right up to the spigots on the pump and inlet and some of the softer pipe over the top as a coupler with proper hose clamps on both sides. The soft line is ok between the tank and the pump as there is no pressure.
I would also put the filter between the tank and the pump. Two reasons, its not under pressure and also, the pump is also succeptible to damage from contaminated fuel
At $1.50 per filter ,I'd use one in each location .
@@brianmcsorley3229 I wouldn't. It's creating extra fail/leak points and also if you use a decent filter there is no need for a second. If your using cheap filters that don't filter, a second one isn't going to do much.
@@ianh5300 - That makes sense .
Ok, I like his thought process. I think the filter is backwards and mounted after the pump. After the pump not a big issue.
Let's see some heat!!
The East Coast man plus size woman, comment had me rolling. 😆That totally earns a subscription in my opinion.
East coast man here. I really like riding my moped but I don't want any of my friends seeing me do!
Knipex are the best cutters. Also grab the zip tie and pull / twist the pliers to tighten before you cut
After I discovered Knipex, I stopped buying anything else. They aren't cheap but my grandkids will still be using them (and thanking me for my choices in life...at least where tools are concerned).
Hold on a second, I have the kobalt tool chest with drawers, and I absolutely love it. Two +years it hasn't rusted, drawers still pull and shut smoothly.
You can also put a spring over the end of your lines to keep them from kinking, or wherever a sharp turn in the line is.
You need to use the hard nylon fuel line for it to pulse correctly.
He used Tygon tubing, it's almost as stiff as Nylon.
Indeed
I've ran a garage and wrecker service for 35 years and I always install fuel filters on equipment if it is not equipped with it.
And the lines I always check for failure and replace regularly. Keeps down alot of problems. Thanks for the heads up.
God bless.
Tennessee, our
I installed one in my truck bed setup and am living outta it all winter. Keeping me cozy. I didn't know that about the fuel lines! Very thankful for this info! 🙏
Lots of good points here. Yes, a filter is necessary -- diesel loves to pick up little bits of debris. That's sort of a given, a less recognized issue is water from the air. I think that WS is in a western inland area that's mostly dry but most of us aren't so lucky; if you have air in a fuel container, temp and air pressure (barometric) will cause humidity from the air to condense out and that liquid water has nowhere to go except into the fuel, *everyone* will get it, the people is the best environments will get less but there will be some everywhere. I like a see-through filter mounted horizontally so that any drops of water will settle out into the "bulge" in the filter (remember to check it occasionally for a while -- if you do, you will find water so often that you'll quickly get in the habit of checking it often).
Water in your fuel will corrode internal components and will likely breed microbial growth that will gum up everything and block filters and operating parts. Water is very bad in diesel or home heating oil -- and the fuel tanks of vehicles and diesel powered equipment.
Having your fuel tank set up so that you're not drawing from the bottom of the tank is good, too. You can do that by having your connector fitting a fraction of an inch above the bottom of the tank or -- more fiddly -- using a rigid standpipe. A separate drain/sample fitting at the lowest point is useful, too.
Your air inlet mod is super tidy, too. Nicely done.
I like the Australian's videos on diesel heaters, too. There's some good info around. On the subject of the irritating fuel pumps, I've seen a Canadian video that solves the problem by not using one. These (simple, ratty, noisy, Chinesium) pumps don't build any pressure, they're just a drip feed One video shows a way to just eliminate it and use a medical drip-feel adjuster with a gravity feed tank, It takes a little fiddling with it to keep it feeding just the right amount but (on the video, at least) it works like a charm and it's doesn't appear to be a bother in a shop etc. where you can monitor it occasionally.
An issue is that the software in the heater computer calculates the amount of fuel that it thinks that it needs and it does that by counting the number of clicks from the pump. That means that you have to run a pump but you can do this on a remote pump with a circular feed into a mini-tank. All it takes is extending the leads to reach the pump under the stairs, in the back of a closet, even outside if that's the best for you. (Somebody who knows how them little electrictons run around in them computers can probably work out a way to put a resister, etc. in the connectors so the computer thinks it's controlling and monitoring a pump anyway.)
Priming is also manual, but it that's too tricky for you, you got no business fooln' around with one of these things anyway.
I appreciate your work, WS. And, yeah, all of Knipex's clippers/pliers, etc/tools are super nice to work with.
Thank you Mr. Cody for showing the starting sequence. We all appreciate it!
They are ESbar Clones if your looking for the orignal. They have been used for years to heat a semi without running it. Great Heaters! Run good fuel and filters to make em last!
It's just like a West Coast Man to pick up the wrong parts. Attention to details is key, my friend.
As a ProHo you should always keep a spare fuel line and filter in your front left vest pocket, next to your hand whittled tobacco pipe and multi-tool. 👍
"West Coast man doesn't smoke tobacco. He still needs a pipe, though."
Good on you to see something and thought to say something about fixing it. I watched the video the other day and thought the line looked weird and where the filter. My grandfather taught me alot and I pass that on to my son. My son say the video and said the same thing.
I have 3 of these at the shop. They are the bees knees. I wired them in series to use 110/220 via an old pc power supply I had laying around. Bolted them to a piece of 5/8” plywood. Heats the entire place if need be.
You’re a man with some skill and lots of money. Your are an excellent in forestry and a politician in the rest
I mentioned yesterday it's always good not to shut it off during a shutdown process you should tell people this as well because it can damage the computer module inside if you disconnect it before it's cool down process
After a few power outages my diesel heater is shot. The fuel overheated in the works and clogged everything up.
@@White000CrowIt was intended to run off a battery... If the voltage goes down the unit will go into shut down mode, protecting itself as intended
@@videostar2528 it is intended to run off 12vdc. All is well if you don’t lose power, which can still happen if you kill a battery.
FYI T&B offers a tool for zip ties that draws the tie and flush cuts it in one motion. It is adjustable to the size of the tie. I’ve been looking at these diesel heaters for overland camping. Thanks for the good info as always.
Lmao just googled it, $220 😅
yes, I had (maybe still have, need to go check) the t&b tool you are talking about, it was actually really nice... but mostly because I made my place of employment at the time purchase them lol! 👍🏽
It seems like the exhaust can be harnessed to make even more heat than the unit is designed for, by making a coil of copper pipe coming from the exhaust and placing a fan to blow air over the coil.
Have a look at bobil water heaters. It uses the air ducting to heat water. People are also using egr coolers on the exhaust to heat water. Copper coil will work too and some people have gone even more basic by routing the exhaust directly through a tub of water and even sand to make a sand battery.
The exhaust always seems like it wastes so much heat. It would be nice to recover some of it.
Good updates with the improved fuel line and filter.
The high startup current draw is for the ignition glow plug. For all the 12v projects you could get into with the bikes and all, a bench-top adjustable DC power supply would be pretty handy, and even pretty affordable ones would be able to supply the required amperage for devices like this.
If you want another rabbit hole to go down, look into the Afterburner controller that you can get for these CDHs. It will act as a true thermostat, more like what you would have had with the Espar system.
Some of these can be changed from Hz to temperature controlled. I did this on mine but it’s in Celsius so that’s fun.
@@White000Crow the problem is that they won't cycle the heater on and off based on a temperature setpoint. They will keep running continuously. I've been using one to heat my greenhouse, and it's a bit of a hassle manually turning it on and off. The Afterburner controller can manage the system much more efficiently.
@@alaskanhomesteading it only cycles the heater from minimum to maximum. I run one in my RV and it will hold within 1-2°F. It only really becomes an issue when it’s a warmer day and it gets too hot. I personally believe that it’s not great for these to cycle on and off all the time.
I especially like his fuel filter installation. The point is to make the unit safer he has made it worse. Besides trying to keep everything spotless as he goes. I made to 11 minutes with multiple fast forwards to eliminate the endless tool commercials.
You’re correct about the amperage issue, that is error 1.
It's going to be a bit long because of the filter, but that leaves you extra length to trim if it splits at the hose barb down the road.
The metric system is brilliant and not even slightly hateful. Got to love the logic of metric
Diesel fuel Dosent Burn or combust From hot items or flames It only Combusts under High pressure so it spilling on the exhaust wont catch anything on fire but nice upgrades Cody @WranglerStar
Not just one, but two high-quality wrist watches. Always good to have a backup. Something like two alternators on the Ford pickup?
There's a guy on UA-cam that explains the same control panel in detail. Very good video.
I am curious why Cody has 2 watches on his arm lol. He's probably addressed this but I havent seen it. Love the channel
I want to hear from the Wranglerstar to finally answer my question why do you where two watches? 😊
The zip tie thing was ingenious. I was thinking pre-zip tie days and thought a horse shoe and nails would suffice as well.
On your noco10 amp, hold that button to get down into the second row, including the “supply” mode.
Im a plumber and i installed one of this heaters in my work crafter. I measured the fumes and set the rate of fuel so that the co is as low as possible.
Its working since more then three years without any Problems and when its really cold i let it run the whole day. Only the display backlight got dim.
East coast man here, ignore all the haters! Your jokes make my day hahaha If you can get your hands on an "SPG International" tool box, you wont regret it. Steel tube frame and none of that crimped edge bs.
The two watches bit never fails to make me giggle
I've had my diesel heater for 4 years, it came with a fuel filter. Absolutely no issues and it keeps giving steady heat.
Like that you are back in action
Nothing more permanent than a temporary fix.
Underrated comment
Or a temporary government program
Hi Cody! Im a fisherman in Canada and we have been using these for a while now. They work well but do not like dyed fuel. When switched back to clear diesel we have never had another issue. Act accordingly 😂
Just remove the dye with cat litter
Got one last year, and you gotta keep an eye on these beasts, they work great, but thats if you set em up right😅
I bought a diesel heater recently and I turned it on and ran it for a while. Started seeing leaking and took it all apart and thought maybe I spilled diesel around the tank. So I put it back together and then a puddle of diesel around it. So I took it all apart again and kept wiping and found that the fuel filter actually failed and cracked brand new out of the box. So I got actual black fuel line and cut it and used actual steel clamps and clamped everything down and then primed. No leaks ever since.
East Coast man, moved to Texas, Still catching these stray bullets from WS. Love yah buddy thanks for the wisdom always.
11:16, the intake attachment being secured to the bottom of the unit, after the holes have been made though the thin sheet metal:
Perfect application for Rivnuts and a metal band.
Yea, parts list goes up, but you get a "store bought" finish.
Parts:
Subtract zip ties, add:
4 rivnuts
4 small bolts
2 steel straps
Or maybe just two bolts and one strap? In this application, probably more than sufficient...
You should be putting the filter in the other line. It s purpose would be to prevent debris from entering the fuel pump from the tank.
An “east coast man getting with a woman who’s not plus size”? My God, man, you win the internet forever. That was so well positioned. Bravo!!
I knew there gonna be problems when I saw two watches...bless your heart
Hello Cody. FYI. While red diesel is generally speaking the same as clear diesel with the exception of the dye. The dye itself is yet another carcinogenic.
Indoor kerosene heaters are required to run clear kerosene for this very reason. Plus red fuel has a more pungent smelling exhaust.
Clear fuels may provide for a less smelly heat source
Snap-On boxes are the best in the world with a lifetime warranty.. Screw the haters. even if you were a chef using a Snap-on don't let them get to you! Seeing your selection and describing the tool you sir are an Expert.
Need to make sure the filters micron is lower than the injector or supply mechanism or you’re just paying $1.50 for the same problems
The devil is in the details.
I absolutely love my Knipex mini bolt cutters, they're incredibly durable and seem to chew through anything with ease!
Thanks for this! I just created a heated shooting shack on my channel with one of these diesel heaters and the very next thing I will do is this mod!
Had one of these diesel heaters for over a year. Kept us warm camping in the snow at 0 degrees. Love these things. Definitely swap that fuel line. Also buy some decent hose clamps. The ones that come with it are pretty trash
Great advice, but one more thing gives me the jitters, the fact that they have put a fuel tank directly above the heater, I would mount the tank in a different location.
The problem you have is the cables, they need to be car jumper cables for it to work, also, I never got mine to work with my Ecoflow Delta pro.
Fuel filters can add resistance which can lower pressure coming into the injector and can cause performance issues.
Make sure you oil those GodHand nippers. I got into model kits recently and didn't realize that just my fingers touching them to brush bits of plastic off would cause them to rust.
Love having these types of videos back!
As a young man, I got my first good guitar and amp. It made sounds that I never expected. It was like "being with a woman what wasn't a plus size"...
Why does proho wear 2 watches?
East coasts man laughs while you make a bigger fire hazard in front of your east coast wood stove. 😂 I do love your channel. Merry Christmas to you and yours
L
From what I have seen on UA-cam, most of the cigarette lighter ports are not good enough to start these diesel heaters up. That 30 amp one will do it just fine or go directly to a battery is your best bet if you have one laying around.
You made me laugh with the east coast man getting with a woman thats not plus sized😂
I installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my 6x12 cargo trailer conversion... I spent all my effort making sure I properly exhausted the unit through my 1 inch insulated wall using a thru-hull stainless outlet as well as using high-temp RTV around my exhaust hose with high quality hose clamps, and thought everything was great.. I now know that I need to also properly setup a thru-hull port for the combustion intake (away from the exhaust). These devices are primitive.. don't trust that the exhaust flow will happen in one direction with 100% certainty... and don't expect your Home Depot CO detector to save you either.. I've smelled the funky smell, and let it go... and it made me pretty sick.. Don't ignore it... do it right.
...also, if you drop the diesel pump frequency, the exhaust-to-intake leak is even worse... Treat the combustion intake just as important as the exhaust itself.
If you use 12ga wire, a bluetti eb3a will handle the start up amps, contrary to what most people say. Have it videod for reference. Generally most people say they need to use a jackery.
I'm still trying to wrap my head around why a West Coast man needs 2 watches? Us East Coast men, at least the Southeast coast men wear one watch to tell time.
An issue with those soft flexible fuel lines is that they affect the fuel pressure, causing reduced fuel efficiency. You can get hard plastic fuel lines like the ones used on boats for example that eliminate the fuel pressure issue.
Edit. Ah I see several people have already explained this.
The is a lesson in having connectors on hand. At least enough to keep you going…
Did I hear a *chirp* at 7:05? Sir, your troll level is impressive! The watches, the cat and a chirp... I seriously love it!
Could you explain the double time tickers? I was wondering...
Nice save on the fuel line. Good trick to know in a pinch, like learning things from your videos.
Thanks for the update proho! Keep up the great work my man
Thanks! Will do!
Cold air intake is NOT a requirement.... The extra energy from cold air density is negligible when low energy diesel combustion is at play. The problems of carboning up are exacerbated by the heat lost to raising this airs temp. I also slow the heat removal to keep the combustion temp up.. keep fans on the exhaust, and keep the exhaust constantly going down.
Hey Cody, can you do a review of your watches and the times you wear a particular watch?
Litterally watched this video 4 time. Wrangle star you had this mans laughter in tears. Punctuation is the punchline. Manslaughter. Mans laughter.
Always appropriate your advice on tools. My Dad was not a tool guy and I only do small tinkering but it's nice to have something that makes you feel good using it. Question, what's up with two watches?
Bro I asked the same thing ... I'm thinking it has to do with the time zone his son is in maybe?
He always wears two watches. Its a thing for him.
The units start with a glow plug that draws significant amperage until unit combustion chamber reaches temp. Possibly 20-30 amps on startup.
Glad to see you still using the ecoflows, I haven't used mine much yet so nice to see them holding up for someone using them more.
I thoroughly enjoyed this - thank you sir! I don’t own one but I’ve always been interested in these
Your mod with the air intake is going to have the combustion air being taken from the living quarters instead of outside. Assuming you are going to be having the exhaust exiting outside, this will create a vacuumn inside the living quarters bring cold outside air into the living quarters.
It’s crazy the day mine arrived you lost a video on it😂. These things are super fun to mess with. I would recommend learning how to tune it properly to make it last forever. Can send info if needed.
Thanks for the video - I just bought one of these heaters. BTW - that panel tool prybar is awesome! It's my go to tool for persuading things
My old man literally just baught one, he opened the box like and hour ago, what are the odds I open youtube and this is the first video my algorithm throws at me.
The hose swap is a well documented item. Ideally you should be using the hardwall hose that originally came with the Espar units. Like the "hateful metric system" lol too funny!
I LOLed at the "this is never going to get changed"
I am going to make these up grades to mine. Thank you for posting this video. I really appreciate it!
Cody use a 5/16 nut driver on those clamps instead of an infernal flat blade
That tick tick of the fuel pump is because it's an electric diaphragm pump. I replace most of the factory mechanical pumps on lawnmower type engines with them.
1:50 I found that exact pry tool in the road one day. Was kinda beat up and my stuff is green. So I asked my snap on guy how much for a green handle and he just gave me a brand new one! Free and brand new!