Nice write up on your diesel heater install experience. I also use a diesel heater to heat the topper on my truck. Works great. Like others, I have some suggestions on your installation. 1) You might try using a heavier gauge wire between your Jackery and heater. The voltage drop due to thinner wires may be causing the heater to pull more current than necessary. Can't tell for sure what size wire you are using, but it looked small. I would suggest 10 or 12 awg wire and cut the cord from the cigarette lighter plug as short as possible. 2) I understand the exhaust setup shown is just temporary, but for the permanent install, the muffler has (or should have) a drip hole on the side opposite the mounting hole. This should be placed down so that any fuel or condensation can drip out. 3) Somebody else already mentioned this, but I also prefer having the air intake come from the outside to minimize condensation. There is a hit on heating, but having less condensation is worth it. At least for me. Keep up the great work!
Great information! I'd offer two suggestions for your setup, for your start power issue, get a small 12V battery (I use the little 15AH type, sized similar to an electric start generator battery) and a battery tender/trickle charger you can connect to the Jackery, the battery will provide the amperage needed to get the heater running and the Jackery will keep the charge topped off with little amp draw. Second to address the pump noise, I've found wrapping the fuel line with self adhesive foam tape, especially anywhere the fuel line may wrack against hard structures of the cabinet, can really quiet these heaters down a lot. Best of luck with your setup! Thanks for sharing your experience.
I plan to power a heater with my Jackery this seems like a good workaround. Would you be able to have the battery charger and heater’s power wires connected to the terminals on the battery at the same time? Would I need a fuse board off the battery? I’m new to this
@@Kscanlon22 Yes, it's not a problem having your heater running off a 12V battery that is also connected to a smart charger that is plugged into a 120V outlet. AND Yes, you should protect the circuit from the battery to the heater with a fuse, a simple inline 15 amp fuse will suffice.
@@Kscanlon22 All of these heaters need to perform a shutdown procedure to burn off unspent fuel and clean the atomizing screen in the ignition chamber and they will run the fan for a few minutes to cool the heat exchanger portion of the heater, the cool down cycle is critical to protecting the ECU. If you do not have a guaranteed ability (such that a battery will provide) to allow the system to cool itself down before powering off, the residual heat in the unit can cause the electronic control unit (ECU) to become overheated (damaging the printed circuitry), rendering it useless and requiring replacement of the ECU.
In short, any unexpected interruption of the 120V power to the inverter will potentially damage the ECU making your heater unusable until repaired and lead to fouling of the ignition system which may make re-starting the unit a challenge.
I am about to skin every surface in my trailer this way. And the 2X's are going to provide supports for Seismic support for the walls, floor, ceiling, and cabinets formerly known as "Free Standing." I'm also going to skirt the trailer with said foam board.
Exact same setup, like someone else recommended, I put the foam mats from harbor freight on my entire floor then a large rug I had, made a big difference. Great video, thanks for your review.
Running it off a motorcycle battery with a trickle charger is a great way to power these heaters. You should never do a hard shutdown; this would happen if you had a power outage. The battery prevents this from happening. I have mine mounted in a hard plastic tote box that’s insulated. The exhaust exits the box using a through haul vent designed for boats, the heat from exhaust line keeps the inside of the box warm. The battery and trickle charge are mounted in the box so they are warm as well. Works great
Put a house radiator as part of the exhaust, and you will get to use the exhaust to add heat in your office. Thst or make a coil of tubing into a bucket,.open air or in a wood burning stove and run the exhaust through that before dumping it outside will make better use of your fuel. This way your exhast heat will radiate off the coils or radiator and the blown heat can be pointed to cross the room or warm the floor. They way you have it throws away half the heat that heater makes.
Thank you finally someone addressed this issue i was wondering why my diesel heater would shut off using that plug, i just went with the ac to dc power adapter and it works fine plugging it into that, hopefully vevor does fix that issue. Thanks for the content!
It's not a vevor issue, it's a diesel heater issue as a whole so it won't be changed anytime soon. It would be easier for jackery, anker, ecoflow, etc to bump up their power ratings to 15A than it would to get random chinese companies to lessen their power consumption on start up.
Old computer power supply is a great way to run these. I personally have a car battery with small battery charger attached. Be sure to have the exhaust at a slight downward grade to allow any condensate to be able to drain to the outside.
Wow! That fuel pump is really loud. I recently purchased a Wippro brand heater like yours based on a review on UA-cam. It's very quiet with just a soft ticking in the background. I believe the pump is well insulated from the chassis compared to other brands. Very informative video!
Same here with the Maxspeedingrods.....almost silent. However, I do have hearing issues. When I first ran it outside I had to put my ear near the unit to make certain it was pumping.
I get what you are talking about when you say the floor radiates COLD. BUT... I am a HVAC tech. I have to choose my words carefully to not offend anyone. So I will do my best not to offend you and hopefully educate you. This is just to help you understand the difference between heat and cold. Cold is just the absence of heat. Same as during the day and the sun heats up the earth. At night is gets colder. Heat always moves to the coldest object. Your floor has very little heat in it. Once heated up it can then release its heat (radiate) to a colder object. It can't radiate cold. Great video by the way and thank you. I hope I didn't offend you.
@@johnmclean6122 Its so pedantic though. "No the floor doesn't radiate cold, the transference of thermal energy from one body to the floor is perceptible."
You'd be wise to run it off a battery with a trickle charger instead of a converter. You could have serious trouble if you have a power failure. These are designed to shutdown properly if the battery voltage should get too low but not if the voltage is suddenly removed. Think of it this way these are designed to be operated in vehicles.
I didn't see anyone else mention this. The main reason you draw air from outside is to avoid creating negative pressure in your heated area. If you pull air from inside and send it outside air will come in from every tiny crack in your structure. This air will be cold and lower your efficiency.
Interesting video. I have an 8kw Hcalory portable diesel heater and I have an ecoflow river max and ecoflow mini portable power station and both power the heater perfect. On start up the diesel heater draws around 120 watts for the 1st couple of minutes and once it fires up and starts to run on diesel it drops down to around 6 watts around the same as charging a phone and would then run continuously for days. As you've demonstrated there is definitely a problem with the set up your testing on start up. My set up must demand less power or the ecoflow just puts out more amps than the jackery. Absolutely love your videos. Watched them for a while now. Great content.
I have two of these heaters and two portable power stations. Using 10 gauge wire, both heaters will run fine on the cigarette outlet on my little no name 320 wh station, but neither run from the 12v port on my Bluetti. I built a small ammo can power box with two drill battery adapters wired in parallel inside and then off to a cigarette socket in the lid. I used two adapters so i can change out batteries one at a time without shutting down the heater. It worked out very well for camping.
I installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my 6x12 cargo trailer conversion... I spent all my effort making sure I properly exhausted the unit through my 1 inch insulated wall using a thru-hull stainless outlet as well as using high-temp RTV around my exhaust hose with high quality hose clamps, and thought everything was great.. I now know that I need to also properly setup a thru-hull port for the combustion intake (away from the exhaust). These devices are primitive.. don't trust that the exhaust flow will happen in one direction with 100% certainty... and don't expect your Home Depot CO detector to save you either.. I've smelled the funky smell, and let it go... and it made me pretty sick.. Don't ignore it... do it right.
That's a good point... it is good to set it up in a way where all the air moves where it should, and doesn't reverse. I'm curious if you are feeding it air from outside? Would it make any difference if the air intake is set higher or lower than the exhaust?
No air from the combustion intake is vented into the space, all of it goes out the exhaust..There is a fan on the back of the diesel heater itself that draws are in air which is forced over the burn chamber, which heats the air, and then is vented into your space..
Appreciate the detail wish I had watched this before I set mine up, great review. 14 degrees here using it in a loft with heater downstairs and vented upstairs. Easier to deal with the issue of filling it without the room smelling like diesel for a few minutes and the sound of the heater is muffled being downstairs. Heater struggles @ 10 degrees get about 60 degrees 20 degrees outside and no issues. My insulation is ok, i'd guess r value of about 14-16, would have been 19 in hte 70s when first built. Anyway I am happy wiht the unit! Again htanks for all your detail in this presentation!
Thanks for the review, that certainly was thorough look at that heater set up and operation. I was browsing Walmart on-line and saw this heater and was wondering what it was about.👍
You nailed what others don't mention keeping the unit inside for the heat exchanger to work effectively. Thanks for the video, thorough review, and explanation..
Very good explanation of the pros and cons. I had considered getting one , but winter camping is on a whole other level as far as food,fuel,and comfort.
The combustion air intake doesn't have to come from outside of the heated area. You can do that if you do desire, but the inside/ outside placement has no effect on the unit. The air being heated and blown into your room is not coming from that 1" intake tube, it's being drawn into the unit housing and forced across the heat exchanger and out the 3" discharge tube. Some may argue that pulling in combustion air from inside of the heated building will force negative pressure in the heated area and cause outside cold air to be pulled in. While there is truth to that, it's very minimal and to pull in some fresh air from outside is not necessarily a bad idea. I have my entire unit mounted outside of the building and only run the 3" heat pipe into the building. This makes the unit silent aside from the slight key engine sound of the air flow. I'm using 2 8k Hcalory units in a 20'x20' 2 story camp. At 45°F i can run only 1 unit at level 3 to maintain 70°-72°F. If it gets cooler than mid to upper 40s, i can fire up the second unit and run both on level 1 or 2 and get almost 3 days from the 2 gallon tanks.
If you use the office air for furnace combustion, then outside cold air will be sucked into the heated room to replace the room air for combustion. That will create cold drafts & work against you. A 90+ % home furnace works the same where the furnace pipes in outdoor air for combustion air.
I saw a review of this heater on another channel. The exhaust pipe got hot enough to scorch wood, so be careful with it. I would not be able to tolerate the constant loud knocking of the pump.
True. Exhaust pipe gets hot and connection under unit is very hot. I purchased a 90 degree connector and wrapped the pipe twice with high temp tape. Works great and safer.
15:52 If the air intake were IN the office, aside from efficiency, wouldn't there be less risk of drawing in some of the carbon monoxide from the exhaust? Thanks for the good video and clear explanation.
Great review. Does this run on only DC or is it AC compatible as well? If DC only, maybe running it via a DC power supply plugged into a standard 110 outlet would get past the 15 amp limitation.
Deboss Garage used a old cast iron water heater to run the exhaust into to catch all the heat and then had it run outside and that allowed more heat into the room that you want heated instead of wasting all the heat that comes from the exhaust I am sure there are other things to us too to harvest that heat like a radiator from a car or something that has Aluminium or copper tanks on it and then a little fan to blow on it to radiate the heat
I run mine on a Jackery 300. All you need to do is put a bigger fuse in the actual DC plug that comes out of the diesel heater. With a 300 you can only run it for about 3 1/2 four hours and a full tank of diesel will get you about eight hours of run time.
For anyone who has a drafty cold area, point the heater output towards that area, it's a game changer. Might need to experiment, but never assume pointing the outlet at yourself is the best way, it may very well not be. Spent the last 3 years thinking the wrong way and my brother pointed it at the draftiest area and it's been way warmer now.
Thanks for your review. Great points. I have a Vevor (5wk) all in one unit for my Van and it blast me out on low setting. I wrapped my exhaust pipe and purchased a 90 deg. fitting (From Amazon) for the exhaust pipe because it hard to bent the pipe to fit the unit. Wrapping the pipe is just safer too. Can't go wrong with the Vevor unit.
Yep, eBay is where I got mine. 12v 30amp converter. 20.00, but I believe the small 12v battery & trickle charger is still the way to go. If you have a power outage while the heaters running, it won’t shut down properly without a 12v battery wired in
Comment: I use the diesel heater for my 14x16 cabin. Yes, agree 100% my Jackery can not handle the initial start-up due to glow plug. For me it's important to point out for "noise" that the initial starting and the final cool down are the main noise times. The actual running is certainly quieter and like in a house the air sound can be soothing. I like your suggestion of having the unit inside for better performance and though I've not experienced it the idea of fuel getting thicker when very cold could be an issue. My experience is one gallon gets me through 8-10 hours of constant use. Certainly there are variables when talking about fuel consumption. Remembering the initial cost for said unit is cheaper than most other heating choices. For the same 14x16 cabin I have I have a VENTED Propane furnace which I find the most reliable and safest. It is made in Canada which you can research by manufacturer "Martin". The propane system will certainly cost between 6-10 times more to set up but I feel heat is important enough to have both systems so I am prepared with back up systems. Certainly the propane system I speak of requires NO Electricity which is nice. Good presentation with your video and easy to understand because like you stated something's can be difficult with the translation on the Chinese diesel unit.
I run mine outside and have the the hot air ducted inside. Diesel runs more efficiently in cooler air and i run it on 2hz or less. Also my fuel pump is very quite. I have an all in one by wippro. I have it hardwired to the coach lithium batteries so power is no problem. Have also ran it all night on my vtoman 1500 watt power station no problem. I use to heat up my 25ft class C RV and it's way better than the built in propane furnace.
Nice, I have a different model I am putting in my big rig for a heating source. The box on it is well insulated, and running of a pony tank off the main tank. Should work pretty good.
I don’t know if I would trust one of these for my rig. I know the Webesto’s cost $1,125 but I’ve seen some people that have had issues where they stop working and are not the easiest to troubleshoot.
@@recoblade1465 have to disagree, these Chinese heaters are great, they are usually just as reliable as the webasto and if they give up you can replace the whole unit and still be out a fraction of the price of a webasto.
@@jamiemurphy1671 oh I'm not knocking the amount of money you save. You save enough to have a second one on if you have the space for it. Do you know how long it take a service truck or a tow truck to get out to you. Be safe out here on these roads
@jamiemurphy1671 Sorry, I thought you were the original commenter. It doesn't cost less but I was leaning more towards the propex, which is a propane heater for my van build. That way my heat cooking and water will all be burning the same fuel
I'll be running mine off battery "at shop" as my rural power fluctuates (poor load switching from power company) sometimes bad enough to reset devices. Should it suddenly loose power w/o proper shut down next startup will be smokey from leftover fuel in combustion chamber. When using portable may use a proper converter.
I'm wondering have you given any thought to the possibility that an extra long exhaust pipe might cause some problem for the device? I'm facing this myself.
Wonder if the exhaust gas was run into a larger diameter pipe such vehical exhaust pipe, if that would solve the backpressure issue and still capture the heat that would just be spent outside ..seems like a waste ..that pipe gets really hot
Thanks for the video -- but I'm confused at the end where you show the exhaust and the intake right next to each other coming out of the wall. Is this correct? Won't the intake suck in the exhaust?
Hi Jason, if I might, I’d like to make a couple of suggestions. As far as what the capabilities are; I have a 12X24’ portable building on my property and I’m using a similar diesel parking heater in it. Temperatures here in the winter are often in the teens and on the colder days in the teens I can get up to 60*f plus. Insulation is key so once you do that that heater will be able to drive you out of that small space! I would suggest using an inverter for the power supply, backed up by your Jackery and I’ll explain that in a bit. The inverters are inexpensive and are 110V AC to 12V DC and are available in 15 amp DC output. Since you have AC power there it shouldn’t be a problem. I would also use the Jackery as backup ie in parallel with the inverter for safety reasons. If you have even a momentary AC power glitch, the heater will shut down hot, especially if was on high at the time and the fan not being able to remove the heat sink from the unit can actually partially melt things such as the circuit board, fuel lines etc…ask me how I know. Also those cold no starts will eventually carbon up the burn chamber which will require cleaning. Also you don’t have to pull the 14*f cold air from outside and that will help as the space warms up. Your office space does not appear to be air tight by any means plus the combustion air requirements for those diesel heaters is tiny. Also the inverter voltage is adjustable so it can be set just a tad above the Jackery and there will be no draw on it at all. Leave a comment if you need more information and we can figure out a way to communicate better via phone or email.
Great information here, I'm setting up one in my shop and find the connection for your exaust interesting. I have 3/4 inch plywood to go thru and if the exaust touches metal and then that metal touches the wood, it burns it. I want to use your idea. I am still concerned that metal will conduct the heat. I ran my exaust thru a larger diameter pipe and that pipe is snug to my hole. I think my issue is its a tight fit and that pipe is getting to 400 plus degrees. There needs to be some kind of space between the pipe and wood or whatever it's attached to in my opinion. Hopefully this makes sense. Just looking for a way to do it right. With the appropriate pieces of equipment Suggestions please.
I’ve got a 5 gallon fuel tank from an old generator. Could I mount it above the unit and splice a fuel line into the existing fuel line for extended run?
Nice well explained video, What i dont understand is you having startup problems with Jackery 2000, I've ran heater all uk winter with the Jackery 500 no problem temps going as low as -5 in a uninsulated shed.
I watched some videos with these heaters ,and it looks like they are not very consistent, and have alot of problems, please let us know the reliability, good video.
Diesel heaters are something I have considered, but I know knowing about them, aside from the need to properly install. I was under the impression that they run off gas, but you are running it off a jackery. Do they require both gas and power?
Floor: Apply some 2” foam board insulation over the concrete. No need to glue down. Cover foam board with plywood. No glue. Done. Insulate ceiling next. With 2x6 framing you can get up to R21 batts. Could also put foam boards on Ceiling instead of Sheetrock.
Check with the manufacturer or with another "standard" manufacturer on the maximum length of the exhaust tubing. If you get too long, it will affect the back pressure being exhausted. If the burner cannot exhaust effectively, it's not gonna burn properly. You could be opening yourself up for some issues.
@@30-06 combustion air intake being inside would create a negative pressure in the space and force cold air to be sucked into the area you're trying to heat
ah, that make sense! Thank you! Exhaust gas leaving the room, meaning outside air need to come in from somewhere.. it is better to have the room slight positive pressure, got it. Thank you!
Sounds like a Jackery problem and not a heater problem. I have a gen 1 Inergy Kodiak that has external terminals that the heater can hook up to directly. I have 2 Vevor heaters now. One is going on 3yrs old and a new Bluetooth model. I replaced both of their power supply cords with 8awg wires and have never seen over 9amps on the coldest startups (Michigan winters). Make sure to use anti-gel treatment for your diesel
That thing uses 120W max at its highest and ~30 W when fully heated. So basically 10A is the max it'll draw. The problem is the battery pack isn't able to maintain the amperage for long and is kicking on its safety circuitry to not overheat.
Do you know why my brand new unit has blown fuses the first time I tried starting it. 6 fuses blow so I haven’t even been able to see the electrical screen on
I use a 600 watt transformer 120/240 VAC to 12volt DC constant output !works perfectly. Im getting 11.8 to 11.9 and a viktage drop to 11.4 due to my 100 ft 16 gauge ext cord.
Other than just using a 12v 15A adapter, couldn't you take a page from the enthusiast car audio scene and install a 12V 1 Farad capacitor in parallel to provide the full 15A when needed?
Thanks for the info. I'd ordered a different branded one a few days ago, that just arrived today. Your video seems like a really good suppliment to the instructions that came with it. I noticed that you mentioned something about a van, and showed a picture @ ~ 14:08. I'm just curious - is that "The Everlanders'" van?
The newer models come with an a/c to d/c conversion plug so you can plug it into the a/c outlet on your Jackery / bluetto , etc and not have to use the 10 amp cigarette plug . The a/c outlets are 20 amp
If I had to guess the reason it doesn’t completely shut off is because it would have to kick up the amps to fire up those glow plugs. Been looking at one of these. I’d like to install one in my travel trailer. Biggest issue is the fuel tank. So I’m going back and forth on either a unit like this one, or the older types wit the separate fuel tanks. Those Vevor items seem to be built pretty good. Thank you for the video.
installed in enclosed trailer.removed tank.fuel shut off with drip line into plastic bottle for disconnect. sits on top of unit strapped down with bungie. keep in old tool box for transport. no spilt fuel in trailer .exhaust goes through aluminum pipe and conduit double male connector.
I could be wrong but I believe all these Chinese heaters are made at the same factory in China and stamped with different names. I just purchased 3 ChuBu Diesel Heater All In One 5KW/8KW 12V-24V for $99 each, they look and function identically. Looking at the specifications, I see no difference.
Try doing a rubber mount to the fuel pump that will help it not transfer the sound to the frame and that will help make it more quiet. Also use a tiny atv battery in between the heater and the Jackery and that'll help with the startup\shut down power draw that trips you Jackery
Not going to help much. The clicking is the noise of the pump itself. They use them in semi trucks all the time but mount the fuel pump outside away from the unit and on the tank.
It's not a great option but you can use a AC to DC converter for 20 bucks, it drains slightly more power that needed but it's not too bad. That's what I have used for the last year without issue.
Any chance you could make a video going over the controls as you understand them, I’ve got the same heater and do not understand how to do anything but turn it on lol
I just tried my 5kw on my 330w power station, not enough power to run at start up but at least I know it will work. Have had the heater for a couple years and now ready to use with my battery system.
I used a 18v to 12v converter with a milwaukee battery connection (easy find on Amazon) and wired it in. On startup I plug the Milwaukee in and it cuts the draw seen on my Ecoflow Delta Max in half. Once it's running I unplug the Milwaukee and runs fine. I had the same issue if it tripping. No issues now and when camping I could run it all night off Milwaukee if needed... So built in a bit of redundancy.
Nice challenge to insulate the room so well it warms itself up. He's 100W, and the lights, laptop and screen say, 40W. You can get heat exhanger ventilation now, but I've doubts about them regarding dampness and mould build up. In the shop might have sparks from angle grinders etc, so can't just use polystyrene, they invented drywall for a reason.
With the right amount of cranking amps. expensive or cheap that is up to you and 3/4inch copper pipe would work for your exhaust pipe extension as well Iv seen on a couple RV installs.
Mine clicked only when setting it up. After priming the pump and exiting the prime part, it runs really quiet. Read the distructions! Also, try to not let it run out of fuel or it will need priming again. Good luck!
HI JASON 👋 THANK YOU FOR SHOWING ME / US HOW YOU'RE SETTING UP YOUR DIESEL HEATER & THE PROBLEMS YOU CAME ACROSS. PLUS TRYING TO FIGURE / FIX THEM 🤔 HOPE YOU & FAMILY , FRIENDS HAD A GREAT HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY 🦃 😊 ❤BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 GOD BLESS YOU BOTH / ALL ALWAYS ON YOUR ADVENTURES 🙏 HOPE YOU ALL HAVE A GREAT MERRY CHRISTMAS 🎅 🎄& HAPPY NEW YEAR TOO 🎉
The air coming through the pipe is air going to the combustion chamber not to the clean air side however I would still try to separate them so the flow would be fresh as possible even if that meant just angling the exhaust
I would also rotate the muffler so that the condensation produced by exhaust can exit out of the weep hole and also I would angle the exhaust so that the muffler is the lowest point of the exhaust so condensation will exit and not run back down the pipe and pool inside.
You could put 12V terminals on the Jakery that connect directly to the battery terminals inside, bypassing the car lighter jack. (fused of course) I am going to use a lithium motorcycle battery. I'll have to see how long it will last between charges. It will start a motorcycle so I'm sure it will light the glow plugs.
in roof top tent the space is so small you don't need to worry about efficiency leave it outside and put hot tube( NOT EXHUST) into the tent I use a dryer vent for an extension.
For you and others, like the book, the exhaust must lay flat or down hill, exhaust moisture will build up if the pipe is not run down hill. Add a in line lawnmower fuel filter. A lawnmower 12-volt batt with a trickle charger is all you need. To avoid carbon build up, run on heat 9 not 10. The 2024, 5-K have a quiet pump.
I'm wondering why you have the exhaust angling up instead of down and you have the muffler laying on its side instead of with the condensation weep hole in the muffler pointing down?
12:30 put the unit outside. it's a furnace, just use a cold air return from inside the building space like any other furnace. People commonly have furnaces exterior to the building or in an area of unconditioned space, but it's the choice of the installer to use a return or not. Not using a return isn't an issue of the diesel heater, it's a installer decision to include it or not.
I run my diesel heater off my Jackery 240, including the last three nights, with no problems. I do have it continuously charging off a larger Jackery as you won't have a long run time with just the 240. I did have some overload issues when I used a large Anker power station. Their 12v plug-in connection does allow for the beginning start up draw these heaters require. No problem with my Jackerys.
@@bobde4705 I believe Jackerys in general have a more robust 12v power outlet. My Jackery 240 has never failed me running my heater. Surge gets up to 130v, no problem. Just looked it up, also 5KW heater.
@@WildernessOffroad Did you happen to notice the watts during the power surge while the warm-up stage is occurring? My 5KW heater maxxes out at around 130W.
Just plugin a car battery too, just for the start procedure....Once it is started, let the jackery take over. Cobble up a switch to prevent the battery from taking over and done.
The battery mode requires a direct connection with a battery because the heater will pull more amps than the 12 volt power plug will handle and you will most likely get an error code because the 12 volt battery cable is not getting enough voltage amps to handle the heater. It will over time damage the heater if you continue running it on a 12 volt outlet on the jackery . Just get a battery and a solar panel and solar panel charger
Nice write up on your diesel heater install experience. I also use a diesel heater to heat the topper on my truck. Works great. Like others, I have some suggestions on your installation.
1) You might try using a heavier gauge wire between your Jackery and heater. The voltage drop due to thinner wires may be causing the heater to pull more current than necessary. Can't tell for sure what size wire you are using, but it looked small. I would suggest 10 or 12 awg wire and cut the cord from the cigarette lighter plug as short as possible.
2) I understand the exhaust setup shown is just temporary, but for the permanent install, the muffler has (or should have) a drip hole on the side opposite the mounting hole. This should be placed down so that any fuel or condensation can drip out.
3) Somebody else already mentioned this, but I also prefer having the air intake come from the outside to minimize condensation. There is a hit on heating, but having less condensation is worth it. At least for me.
Keep up the great work!
Great information! I'd offer two suggestions for your setup, for your start power issue, get a small 12V battery (I use the little 15AH type, sized similar to an electric start generator battery) and a battery tender/trickle charger you can connect to the Jackery, the battery will provide the amperage needed to get the heater running and the Jackery will keep the charge topped off with little amp draw. Second to address the pump noise, I've found wrapping the fuel line with self adhesive foam tape, especially anywhere the fuel line may wrack against hard structures of the cabinet, can really quiet these heaters down a lot. Best of luck with your setup! Thanks for sharing your experience.
I plan to power a heater with my Jackery this seems like a good workaround. Would you be able to have the battery charger and heater’s power wires connected to the terminals on the battery at the same time? Would I need a fuse board off the battery? I’m new to this
@@Kscanlon22 Yes, it's not a problem having your heater running off a 12V battery that is also connected to a smart charger that is plugged into a 120V outlet. AND Yes, you should protect the circuit from the battery to the heater with a fuse, a simple inline 15 amp fuse will suffice.
@@StratOvation what’s the advantage of this compared to just running an AC/DC inverter off the 120V outlet? Is it more efficient?
@@Kscanlon22 All of these heaters need to perform a shutdown procedure to burn off unspent fuel and clean the atomizing screen in the ignition chamber and they will run the fan for a few minutes to cool the heat exchanger portion of the heater, the cool down cycle is critical to protecting the ECU. If you do not have a guaranteed ability (such that a battery will provide) to allow the system to cool itself down before powering off, the residual heat in the unit can cause the electronic control unit (ECU) to become overheated (damaging the printed circuitry), rendering it useless and requiring replacement of the ECU.
In short, any unexpected interruption of the 120V power to the inverter will potentially damage the ECU making your heater unusable until repaired and lead to fouling of the ignition system which may make re-starting the unit a challenge.
To do the floor in my shop, I used inch and a half foam board and two by fours on the flat. With 3/4 plywood. Worked really good.
@@dennisyoung4496 Exactly what I have done on a couple of occasion, works great!!
I am about to skin every surface in my trailer this way. And the 2X's are going to provide supports for Seismic support for the walls, floor, ceiling, and cabinets formerly known as "Free Standing."
I'm also going to skirt the trailer with said foam board.
Exact same setup, like someone else recommended, I put the foam mats from harbor freight on my entire floor then a large rug I had, made a big difference. Great video, thanks for your review.
Running it off a motorcycle battery with a trickle charger is a great way to power these heaters. You should never do a hard shutdown; this would happen if you had a power outage. The battery prevents this from happening. I have mine mounted in a hard plastic tote box that’s insulated. The exhaust exits the box using a through haul vent designed for boats, the heat from exhaust line keeps the inside of the box warm. The battery and trickle charge are mounted in the box so they are warm as well. Works great
Put a house radiator as part of the exhaust, and you will get to use the exhaust to add heat in your office. Thst or make a coil of tubing into a bucket,.open air or in a wood burning stove and run the exhaust through that before dumping it outside will make better use of your fuel. This way your exhast heat will radiate off the coils or radiator and the blown heat can be pointed to cross the room or warm the floor.
They way you have it throws away half the heat that heater makes.
Thank you finally someone addressed this issue i was wondering why my diesel heater would shut off using that plug, i just went with the ac to dc power adapter and it works fine plugging it into that, hopefully vevor does fix that issue. Thanks for the content!
It's not a vevor issue, it's a diesel heater issue as a whole so it won't be changed anytime soon. It would be easier for jackery, anker, ecoflow, etc to bump up their power ratings to 15A than it would to get random chinese companies to lessen their power consumption on start up.
Old computer power supply is a great way to run these. I personally have a car battery with small battery charger attached. Be sure to have the exhaust at a slight downward grade to allow any condensate to be able to drain to the outside.
Wow! That fuel pump is really loud. I recently purchased a Wippro brand heater like yours based on a review on UA-cam. It's very quiet with just a soft ticking in the background. I believe the pump is well insulated from the chassis compared to other brands. Very informative video!
Same here with the Maxspeedingrods.....almost silent. However, I do have hearing issues. When I first ran it outside I had to put my ear near the unit to make certain it was pumping.
I get what you are talking about when you say the floor radiates COLD. BUT... I am a HVAC tech. I have to choose my words carefully to not offend anyone. So I will do my best not to offend you and hopefully educate you. This is just to help you understand the difference between heat and cold. Cold is just the absence of heat. Same as during the day and the sun heats up the earth. At night is gets colder. Heat always moves to the coldest object. Your floor has very little heat in it. Once heated up it can then release its heat (radiate) to a colder object. It can't radiate cold.
Great video by the way and thank you. I hope I didn't offend you.
Lo, HVAC guys can't resist correcting this. I swear I see a comment like this on every heat/ac related video.
@@Montyfiable maybe one day the education system will catch up and there will be no more need for them to post to correct those misunderstandings
@@johnmclean6122 Its so pedantic though. "No the floor doesn't radiate cold, the transference of thermal energy from one body to the floor is perceptible."
I'm using a rv 110 to 12volt converter to power mine in my small shop. Works great.
You'd be wise to run it off a battery with a trickle charger instead of a converter. You could have serious trouble if you have a power failure. These are designed to shutdown properly if the battery voltage should get too low but not if the voltage is suddenly removed. Think of it this way these are designed to be operated in vehicles.
If the power fails the unit can’t run its cooldown cycle and will melt the circuit board inside. It’s a known issue on these Chinese heaters
I didn't see anyone else mention this. The main reason you draw air from outside is to avoid creating negative pressure in your heated area. If you pull air from inside and send it outside air will come in from every tiny crack in your structure. This air will be cold and lower your efficiency.
Interesting video. I have an 8kw Hcalory portable diesel heater and I have an ecoflow river max and ecoflow mini portable power station and both power the heater perfect. On start up the diesel heater draws around 120 watts for the 1st couple of minutes and once it fires up and starts to run on diesel it drops down to around 6 watts around the same as charging a phone and would then run continuously for days. As you've demonstrated there is definitely a problem with the set up your testing on start up. My set up must demand less power or the ecoflow just puts out more amps than the jackery.
Absolutely love your videos. Watched them for a while now. Great content.
Great vid, you hit on all point for beginner like me on diesel heater and the setup issue, power source, etc.
I have two of these heaters and two portable power stations. Using 10 gauge wire, both heaters will run fine on the cigarette outlet on my little no name 320 wh station, but neither run from the 12v port on my Bluetti.
I built a small ammo can power box with two drill battery adapters wired in parallel inside and then off to a cigarette socket in the lid. I used two adapters so i can change out batteries one at a time without shutting down the heater. It worked out very well for camping.
I installed a Chinese Diesel heater in my 6x12 cargo trailer conversion... I spent all my effort making sure I properly exhausted the unit through my 1 inch insulated wall using a thru-hull stainless outlet as well as using high-temp RTV around my exhaust hose with high quality hose clamps, and thought everything was great.. I now know that I need to also properly setup a thru-hull port for the combustion intake (away from the exhaust). These devices are primitive.. don't trust that the exhaust flow will happen in one direction with 100% certainty... and don't expect your Home Depot CO detector to save you either.. I've smelled the funky smell, and let it go... and it made me pretty sick.. Don't ignore it... do it right.
That's a good point... it is good to set it up in a way where all the air moves where it should, and doesn't reverse. I'm curious if you are feeding it air from outside? Would it make any difference if the air intake is set higher or lower than the exhaust?
No air from the combustion intake is vented into the space, all of it goes out the exhaust..There is a fan on the back of the diesel heater itself that draws are in air which is forced over the burn chamber, which heats the air, and then is vented into your space..
Appreciate the detail wish I had watched this before I set mine up, great review. 14 degrees here using it in a loft with heater downstairs and vented upstairs. Easier to deal with the issue of filling it without the room smelling like diesel for a few minutes and the sound of the heater is muffled being downstairs. Heater struggles @ 10 degrees get about 60 degrees 20 degrees outside and no issues. My insulation is ok, i'd guess r value of about 14-16, would have been 19 in hte 70s when first built. Anyway I am happy wiht the unit! Again htanks for all your detail in this presentation!
Thanks for the review, that certainly was thorough look at that heater set up and operation. I was browsing Walmart on-line and saw this heater and was wondering what it was about.👍
You nailed what others don't mention keeping the unit inside for the heat exchanger to work effectively. Thanks for the video, thorough review, and explanation..
Yeah, but in the video his intake hose outside the office.?
Very good explanation of the pros and cons. I had considered getting one , but winter camping is on a whole other level as far as food,fuel,and comfort.
Add a 2x6 framed and insulated floor. You’ll have a step up into the office but that will help the cold radiating from the concrete floor problem.
The combustion air intake doesn't have to come from outside of the heated area. You can do that if you do desire, but the inside/ outside placement has no effect on the unit. The air being heated and blown into your room is not coming from that 1" intake tube, it's being drawn into the unit housing and forced across the heat exchanger and out the 3" discharge tube.
Some may argue that pulling in combustion air from inside of the heated building will force negative pressure in the heated area and cause outside cold air to be pulled in. While there is truth to that, it's very minimal and to pull in some fresh air from outside is not necessarily a bad idea.
I have my entire unit mounted outside of the building and only run the 3" heat pipe into the building. This makes the unit silent aside from the slight key engine sound of the air flow. I'm using 2 8k Hcalory units in a 20'x20' 2 story camp. At 45°F i can run only 1 unit at level 3 to maintain 70°-72°F. If it gets cooler than mid to upper 40s, i can fire up the second unit and run both on level 1 or 2 and get almost 3 days from the 2 gallon tanks.
Wouldn't it be more efficient to have the air intake in your office to recirculate the warm air rather than taking in cold air from your shop?
I thought this too, especially after he said that it was inefficient to have it draw in and heat cold air. But that's what he was doing.
The intake will be sucking in exhaust fumes... not healthy..
The air intake from the outside is only for the cumbustion chamber inside the heater. The intake for the hot air is on the backside of the heater.
If you use the office air for furnace combustion, then outside cold air will be sucked into the heated room to replace the room air for combustion. That will create cold drafts & work against you.
A 90+ % home furnace works the same where the furnace pipes in outdoor air for combustion air.
@@kevinanderson7555 ?huh
I saw a review of this heater on another channel. The exhaust pipe got hot enough to scorch wood, so be careful with it.
I would not be able to tolerate the constant loud knocking of the pump.
True. Exhaust pipe gets hot and connection under unit is very hot. I purchased a 90 degree connector and wrapped the pipe twice with high temp tape. Works great and safer.
Most models stop ticking after they get warm
15:52
If the air intake were IN the office, aside from efficiency, wouldn't there be less risk of drawing in some of the carbon monoxide from the exhaust?
Thanks for the good video and clear explanation.
Great review. Does this run on only DC or is it AC compatible as well? If DC only, maybe running it via a DC power supply plugged into a standard 110 outlet would get past the 15 amp limitation.
Deboss Garage used a old cast iron water heater to run the exhaust into to catch all the heat and then had it run outside and that allowed more heat into the room that you want heated instead of wasting all the heat that comes from the exhaust I am sure there are other things to us too to harvest that heat like a radiator from a car or something that has Aluminium or copper tanks on it and then a little fan to blow on it to radiate the heat
I believe 12 volt car type plugs are universally only rated for 10 amps.
Thats correct.
The instructions say to not use a cigarette lighter plug as well.
I run mine on a Jackery 300. All you need to do is put a bigger fuse in the actual DC plug that comes out of the diesel heater. With a 300 you can only run it for about 3 1/2 four hours and a full tank of diesel will get you about eight hours of run time.
For anyone who has a drafty cold area, point the heater output towards that area, it's a game changer. Might need to experiment, but never assume pointing the outlet at yourself is the best way, it may very well not be. Spent the last 3 years thinking the wrong way and my brother pointed it at the draftiest area and it's been way warmer now.
Thanks for your review. Great points.
I have a Vevor (5wk) all in one unit for my Van and it blast me out on low setting. I wrapped my exhaust pipe and purchased a 90 deg. fitting (From Amazon) for the exhaust pipe because it hard to bent the pipe to fit the unit. Wrapping the pipe is just safer too. Can't go wrong with the Vevor unit.
Is there an A/C adaptor for these heaters? I have electricity in the building, but not a battery pack like the Jackery....
Yep, eBay is where I got mine. 12v 30amp converter. 20.00, but I believe the small 12v battery & trickle charger is still the way to go. If you have a power outage while the heaters running, it won’t shut down properly without a 12v battery wired in
Comment: I use the diesel heater for my 14x16 cabin. Yes, agree 100% my Jackery can not handle the initial start-up due to glow plug. For me it's important to point out for "noise" that the initial starting and the final cool down are the main noise times. The actual running is certainly quieter and like in a house the air sound can be soothing.
I like your suggestion of having the unit inside for better performance and though I've not experienced it the idea of fuel getting thicker when very cold could be an issue. My experience is one gallon gets me through 8-10 hours of constant use. Certainly there are variables when talking about fuel consumption. Remembering the initial cost for said unit is cheaper than most other heating choices.
For the same 14x16 cabin I have I have a VENTED Propane furnace which I find the most reliable and safest. It is made in Canada which you can research by manufacturer "Martin". The propane system will certainly cost between 6-10 times more to set up but I feel heat is important enough to have both systems so I am prepared with back up systems. Certainly the propane system I speak of requires NO Electricity which is nice.
Good presentation with your video and easy to understand because like you stated something's can be difficult with the translation on the Chinese diesel unit.
If you have 120v in your office to charge the Jackery, why not do what I did & get a 12v, 15a power adapter?
I run mine outside and have the the hot air ducted inside. Diesel runs more efficiently in cooler air and i run it on 2hz or less. Also my fuel pump is very quite. I have an all in one by wippro. I have it hardwired to the coach lithium batteries so power is no problem. Have also ran it all night on my vtoman 1500 watt power station no problem. I use to heat up my 25ft class C RV and it's way better than the built in propane furnace.
Does the exhaust smell the same as from a diesel engine?
Yes, but after the heater warms up, the exhaust smells like hot air.
Nice, I have a different model I am putting in my big rig for a heating source. The box on it is well insulated, and running of a pony tank off the main tank. Should work pretty good.
I don’t know if I would trust one of these for my rig. I know the Webesto’s cost $1,125 but I’ve seen some people that have had issues where they stop working and are not the easiest to troubleshoot.
@@recoblade1465 have to disagree, these Chinese heaters are great, they are usually just as reliable as the webasto and if they give up you can replace the whole unit and still be out a fraction of the price of a webasto.
@@jamiemurphy1671 oh I'm not knocking the amount of money you save. You save enough to have a second one on if you have the space for it. Do you know how long it take a service truck or a tow truck to get out to you. Be safe out here on these roads
@@recoblade1465 yeah that’s for sure, I never considered it for a truck, I use them on boats and motor homes mainly in Ireland 🙌
@jamiemurphy1671 Sorry, I thought you were the original commenter. It doesn't cost less but I was leaning more towards the propex, which is a propane heater for my van build. That way my heat cooking and water will all be burning the same fuel
I'll be running mine off battery "at shop" as my rural power fluctuates (poor load switching from power company) sometimes bad enough to reset devices. Should it suddenly loose power w/o proper shut down next startup will be smokey from leftover fuel in combustion chamber.
When using portable may use a proper converter.
A little insulation will make a big difference winter and summer. Also a rug with pad on the floor will help.
Have you tried using kerosene instead of diesel ?
That's what I use in my new HCalory heater. Works great! K1 white clear kerosene.
I would use a 12 volt battery in line to have the amperage available for the startup of the heater using a charger to keep the battery full.
I'm wondering have you given any thought to the possibility that an extra long exhaust pipe might cause some problem for the device? I'm facing this myself.
Wonder if the exhaust gas was run into a larger diameter pipe such vehical exhaust pipe, if that would solve the backpressure issue and still capture the heat that would just be spent outside ..seems like a waste ..that pipe gets really hot
Thanks for the video -- but I'm confused at the end where you show the exhaust and the intake right next to each other coming out of the wall. Is this correct? Won't the intake suck in the exhaust?
Hi Jason, if I might, I’d like to make a couple of suggestions. As far as what the capabilities are; I have a 12X24’ portable building on my property and I’m using a similar diesel parking heater in it. Temperatures here in the winter are often in the teens and on the colder days in the teens I can get up to 60*f plus. Insulation is key so once you do that that heater will be able to drive you out of that small space! I would suggest using an inverter for the power supply, backed up by your Jackery and I’ll explain that in a bit. The inverters are inexpensive and are 110V AC to 12V DC and are available in 15 amp DC output. Since you have AC power there it shouldn’t be a problem. I would also use the Jackery as backup ie in parallel with the inverter for safety reasons. If you have even a momentary AC power glitch, the heater will shut down hot, especially if was on high at the time and the fan not being able to remove the heat sink from the unit can actually partially melt things such as the circuit board, fuel lines etc…ask me how I know. Also those cold no starts will eventually carbon up the burn chamber which will require cleaning. Also you don’t have to pull the 14*f cold air from outside and that will help as the space warms up. Your office space does not appear to be air tight by any means plus the combustion air requirements for those diesel heaters is tiny. Also the inverter voltage is adjustable so it can be set just a tad above the Jackery and there will be no draw on it at all. Leave a comment if you need more information and we can figure out a way to communicate better via phone or email.
Great information here, I'm setting up one in my shop and find the connection for your exaust interesting.
I have 3/4 inch plywood to go thru and if the exaust touches metal and then that metal touches the wood, it burns it. I want to use your idea. I am still concerned that metal will conduct the heat.
I ran my exaust thru a larger diameter pipe and that pipe is snug to my hole. I think my issue is its a tight fit and that pipe is getting to 400 plus degrees.
There needs to be some kind of space between the pipe and wood or whatever it's attached to in my opinion.
Hopefully this makes sense. Just looking for a way to do it right. With the appropriate pieces of equipment
Suggestions please.
Throw some rugs down on the cement floor - really quick and easy way to get a small R Value that could make a big difference.
I’ve got a 5 gallon fuel tank from an old generator. Could I mount it above the unit and splice a fuel line into the existing fuel line for extended run?
Nice well explained video, What i dont understand is you having startup problems with Jackery 2000, I've ran heater all uk winter with the Jackery 500 no problem temps going as low as -5 in a uninsulated shed.
I watched some videos with these heaters ,and it looks like they are not very consistent, and have alot of problems, please let us know the reliability, good video.
Confused about the air intake and worried about having the unit in a sleeping space, van/boat/tent?
Diesel heaters are something I have considered, but I know knowing about them, aside from the need to properly install.
I was under the impression that they run off gas, but you are running it off a jackery. Do they require both gas and power?
Floor:
Apply some 2” foam board insulation over the concrete.
No need to glue down.
Cover foam board with plywood. No glue. Done.
Insulate ceiling next.
With 2x6 framing you can get up to R21 batts. Could also put foam boards on Ceiling instead of Sheetrock.
Check with the manufacturer or with another "standard" manufacturer on the maximum length of the exhaust tubing.
If you get too long, it will affect the back pressure being exhausted. If the burner cannot exhaust effectively, it's not gonna burn properly. You could be opening yourself up for some issues.
Has your heater stop working because it over heating?
13:38 a noob here: air intake can’t be inside? A bit confused but great video, thank you!
@@30-06 combustion air intake being inside would create a negative pressure in the space and force cold air to be sucked into the area you're trying to heat
ah, that make sense! Thank you! Exhaust gas leaving the room, meaning outside air need to come in from somewhere.. it is better to have the room slight positive pressure, got it. Thank you!
Sounds like a Jackery problem and not a heater problem. I have a gen 1 Inergy Kodiak that has external terminals that the heater can hook up to directly. I have 2 Vevor heaters now. One is going on 3yrs old and a new Bluetooth model. I replaced both of their power supply cords with 8awg wires and have never seen over 9amps on the coldest startups (Michigan winters). Make sure to use anti-gel treatment for your diesel
That thing uses 120W max at its highest and ~30 W when fully heated. So basically 10A is the max it'll draw. The problem is the battery pack isn't able to maintain the amperage for long and is kicking on its safety circuitry to not overheat.
I bought mine too, but I have an E10 error, what can I do to make it work?
Awesome video! Gonna go through your channel to see what else I can learn!
Do you know why my brand new unit has blown fuses the first time I tried starting it. 6 fuses blow so I haven’t even been able to see the electrical screen on
I use a 600 watt transformer 120/240 VAC to 12volt DC constant output !works perfectly. Im getting 11.8 to 11.9 and a viktage drop to 11.4 due to my 100 ft 16 gauge ext cord.
Nice video,.. you should make this video again after insulating your office... Thx for sharing...
Other than just using a 12v 15A adapter, couldn't you take a page from the enthusiast car audio scene and install a 12V 1 Farad capacitor in parallel to provide the full 15A when needed?
Thanks for the info. I'd ordered a different branded one a few days ago, that just arrived today. Your video seems like a really good suppliment to the instructions that came with it. I noticed that you mentioned something about a van, and showed a picture @ ~ 14:08. I'm just curious - is that "The Everlanders'" van?
The newer models come with an a/c to d/c conversion plug so you can plug it into the a/c outlet on your Jackery / bluetto , etc and not have to use the 10 amp cigarette plug . The a/c outlets are 20 amp
If I had to guess the reason it doesn’t completely shut off is because it would have to kick up the amps to fire up those glow plugs. Been looking at one of these. I’d like to install one in my travel trailer. Biggest issue is the fuel tank. So I’m going back and forth on either a unit like this one, or the older types wit the separate fuel tanks. Those Vevor items seem to be built pretty good. Thank you for the video.
installed in enclosed trailer.removed tank.fuel shut off with drip line into plastic bottle for disconnect. sits on top of unit strapped down with bungie. keep in old tool box for transport. no spilt fuel in trailer .exhaust goes through aluminum pipe and conduit double male connector.
I could be wrong but I believe all these Chinese heaters are made at the same factory in China and stamped with different names. I just purchased 3 ChuBu Diesel Heater All In One 5KW/8KW 12V-24V for $99 each, they look and function identically.
Looking at the specifications, I see no difference.
Try doing a rubber mount to the fuel pump that will help it not transfer the sound to the frame and that will help make it more quiet. Also use a tiny atv battery in between the heater and the Jackery and that'll help with the startup\shut down power draw that trips you Jackery
Not going to help much. The clicking is the noise of the pump itself. They use them in semi trucks all the time but mount the fuel pump outside away from the unit and on the tank.
Just wrap the pump with insulation, like R-14 fiberglass
It's not a great option but you can use a AC to DC converter for 20 bucks, it drains slightly more power that needed but it's not too bad. That's what I have used for the last year without issue.
Any chance you could make a video going over the controls as you understand them, I’ve got the same heater and do not understand how to do anything but turn it on lol
I just tried my 5kw on my 330w power station, not enough power to run at start up but at least I know it will work. Have had the heater for a couple years and now ready to use with my battery system.
I also had bought the longer pipe, never used it, and also exhaust insulation and sealant to hold exhaust tape strands in place.
Is it possible to wire this up to a converter for dc to ac?
I used a 18v to 12v converter with a milwaukee battery connection (easy find on Amazon) and wired it in. On startup I plug the Milwaukee in and it cuts the draw seen on my Ecoflow Delta Max in half. Once it's running I unplug the Milwaukee and runs fine. I had the same issue if it tripping. No issues now and when camping I could run it all night off Milwaukee if needed... So built in a bit of redundancy.
So you just use the Milwaukee on startup and then swap to the eco flow ?
I just got a 15a 12v AC / DC converter for $25 on Amazon.
No power issues for the on on my porch install.
Nice challenge to insulate the room so well it warms itself up. He's 100W, and the lights, laptop and screen say, 40W. You can get heat exhanger ventilation now, but I've doubts about them regarding dampness and mould build up. In the shop might have sparks from angle grinders etc, so can't just use polystyrene, they invented drywall for a reason.
With the right amount of cranking amps. expensive or cheap that is up to you and 3/4inch copper pipe would work for your exhaust pipe extension as well Iv seen on a couple RV installs.
Mine clicked only when setting it up. After priming the pump and exiting the prime part, it runs really quiet. Read the distructions! Also, try to not let it run out of fuel or it will need priming again. Good luck!
HI JASON 👋
THANK YOU FOR SHOWING ME / US HOW YOU'RE SETTING UP YOUR DIESEL HEATER & THE PROBLEMS YOU CAME ACROSS. PLUS TRYING TO FIGURE / FIX THEM 🤔 HOPE YOU & FAMILY , FRIENDS HAD A GREAT HAPPY THANKSGIVING DAY 🦃 😊 ❤BE SAFE ! HAVE FUN ! ENJOYED 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 🍨 GOD BLESS YOU BOTH / ALL ALWAYS ON YOUR ADVENTURES 🙏 HOPE YOU ALL HAVE A GREAT MERRY CHRISTMAS 🎅 🎄& HAPPY NEW YEAR TOO 🎉
Heat goes up...insulate up. Put carpet on the floor and you'll be able to condition that space adequately with this unit.
Question;
Is running the air intake so close to the exhaust creating a danger of recirculating the exhaust back into the room via the intake?
I thought the same, Carbon monoxide moniter deffo required in the office. That tick tick tick would drive me nuts.
Nice vid tho..
The air coming through the pipe is air going to the combustion chamber not to the clean air side however I would still try to separate them so the flow would be fresh as possible even if that meant just angling the exhaust
I would also rotate the muffler so that the condensation produced by exhaust can exit out of the weep hole and also I would angle the exhaust so that the muffler is the lowest point of the exhaust so condensation will exit and not run back down the pipe and pool inside.
You could put 12V terminals on the Jakery that connect directly to the battery terminals inside, bypassing the car lighter jack. (fused of course) I am going to use a lithium motorcycle battery. I'll have to see how long it will last between charges. It will start a motorcycle so I'm sure it will light the glow plugs.
in roof top tent the space is so small you don't need to worry about efficiency leave it outside and put hot tube( NOT EXHUST) into the tent I use a dryer vent for an extension.
For you and others, like the book, the exhaust must lay flat or down hill, exhaust moisture will build up if the pipe is not run down hill. Add a in line lawnmower fuel filter. A lawnmower 12-volt batt with a trickle charger is all you need. To avoid carbon build up, run on heat 9 not 10. The 2024, 5-K have a quiet pump.
You need to be running it off a 110 to 12 volt converter plugged in to the wall outlet. No worries about power supply.
I'm wondering why you have the exhaust angling up instead of down and you have the muffler laying on its side instead of with the condensation weep hole in the muffler pointing down?
12:30 put the unit outside. it's a furnace, just use a cold air return from inside the building space like any other furnace. People commonly have furnaces exterior to the building or in an area of unconditioned space, but it's the choice of the installer to use a return or not.
Not using a return isn't an issue of the diesel heater, it's a installer decision to include it or not.
What heater is that the 5kw or the 8kw heater?
I run my heater on a jackery 500 but you need to find a liter plug that's heavy duty. I had the same problem with a cheap liter plug.
Glad I watched this before buying. I don’t think that I could put up with listening to that pump hammering away all the time
@@markyax1467 pump noises are easy to fix with these. The rigid mount makes the tick way worse then it is
@ 6:32 Deep cycle battery. Connect your heater to a deep cycle battery and have your jackery charge / maintain your battery.
goal zero has some Anderson connectors with 30amp output. others with those connectors may too.
I heard these are not returnable if there's a problem. Also, all I have in my van is a Jackery 240, is that enough to run this heater?
I run my diesel heater off my Jackery 240, including the last three nights, with no problems. I do have it continuously charging off a larger Jackery as you won't have a long run time with just the 240. I did have some overload issues when I used a large Anker power station. Their 12v plug-in connection does allow for the beginning start up draw these heaters require. No problem with my Jackerys.
I have a 5kw unit and run it off a Jackery 500 no problems 1:28
@@bobde4705 I believe Jackerys in general have a more robust 12v power outlet. My Jackery 240 has never failed me running my heater. Surge gets up to 130v, no problem. Just looked it up, also 5KW heater.
I run my 8kw vevor heater just fine with my jackery 240
@@WildernessOffroad Did you happen to notice the watts during the power surge while the warm-up stage is occurring? My 5KW heater maxxes out at around 130W.
i have a 12v-25amp plug on my bluetti, could i wire it for that? otherwise it’s 12v 10a cig lighter
I remember VCRs when they came out and probably for the next 10 years I don't think I ever figured out how to get the clock to set on those things
Just plugin a car battery too, just for the start procedure....Once it is started, let the jackery take over. Cobble up a switch to prevent the battery from taking over and done.
does it make a high noise ? plz answer me before buying it
Longer exhaust tube will greatly increase flow potential causing overheating
The battery mode requires a direct connection with a battery because the heater will pull more amps than the 12 volt power plug will handle and you will most likely get an error code because the 12 volt battery cable is not getting enough voltage amps to handle the heater. It will over time damage the heater if you continue running it on a 12 volt outlet on the jackery . Just get a battery and a solar panel and solar panel charger
I wrapped cloth around pump 80 percent ticking quite