The best solution is to dig a pond deep enough and broad enough to deal with this seasonal flooding and make sure if it overflows that the water level at its fill level is still six inches below the bottom of his footing with drainage away from the property. The land is too flat for any less, and that will be the cheapest long term solution.
Beat me to the punch! The soil removed to build the moat is then used to build a dike. Or you could just pick the whole building up another 6 feet to get above that flood plane.
My uncle Ernie did ag drains all around my house and inside the subfloor in Sydney. Also had to underpin and repoint in spots with the foundation sitting on clay and not sandstone. Bone frick’n dry forever. Pumps are for pussies; power or pump goes out and you’re sitting in a puddle. Best way is to prevent the water from penetrating in the first place. You gotta position the ag drains at the rock layer so the water flows into the drains. Anything above will allow the water to flow around and under back into the house.
This video is giving horrible flashbacks. My contractor did the same thing and put a drain at level of the bottom of the foundation footer. He then backfilled the crawlspace with dirt so when the water came in, the crawl space was a knee deep slurry. Absolutely awful. I encapsulated and added three sump pumps that ran every 30 minutes year round for two years before I finally go my own equipment and added another deeper drain. Now my sump pumps only run in the winter. So I guess I have to go deeper yet again. I spent 15K on encapsulating, several thousand on sump pumps, and bought a tractor with a backhoe when all my contractor had to do was take an afternoon and dig a deeper trench.
Thanks for bringing us along. You could have easily hidden this, but the transparency is appreciated. Sometimes things don’t go as planned. I know it’s a bad situation, and I’m sure you must be stressed. Praying for ya, Cody.
Chiming in late here, but I've built 30+ houses with crawl spaces, and it's critical to ensure that the grade inside the crawl space is higher than the exterior grade. The detail we use is masonry block 32" high, with the first 8" course of block backfilled inside the crawl space. I always keep the final grade on the outside 4" lower than the grade inside, and this eliminates the ground water issue. Sump pumps, gutters, and french drains help, but they don't work without some maintenance.
French drains specs around here call for 2B "clean" stone to allow water to flow readily through. With as much rain as you get I'd consider wrapping the drain around the cabin to isolate the footing from the ground water in any direction. Cheap insurance. We damp proof the walls too, but that doesnt help much if you have standing water against the wall. Glad you found this out before anything was placed in the crawl space that would have cost $$$ to replace. Its an honest man that shows when things dont work out.
I was watching one of your old videos and saw it was about tire chains. You were putting them on you pickup and the had cam-locks. I thought I would let you know and your viewer that when I drove semi-trucks, we would always paint the cam-lock tool red so you could away find it in the snow. Just another helpful tip.
I think you are spot on regarding digging a trench and putting drain pipes on the other side/the high side, since it looks like the water is following the elevation thus you need to drain on the high side to prevent it going into the foundation in the first place. The trench you dug today, is useful for emptying the foundation but will not prevent getting into the foundation thus it will remain damp at the very best. You want to put trenches around the foundation on the high side to prevent it getting into the foundation in the first place.
Your problem is the road right next to the cabin. It’s elevated above the field and all the runoff goes down into the field. Your field is oversaturated. You can see how dark your dirt is. It’s been very wet and has not dried out in a long time. Unfortunately that area is not gonna be good to build. It is what it is as you’ve already built that cabin, but you should’ve built the dirt up higher than the road before even making the foundation your best bet is to run a ditch along the road, and then the trench down the side of the cabin perpendicular to the road to redirect runoff
@@wutafungi Well not as much as you obviously. But then again let's ses. I really don't want to get into a debate with a person that doesn't even say his own name thank you.
French drain all around with stone on top. Then dig a well or sump, potentially up to 4 wells around the structure at the corners. They need to go down deep enough to draw down the water table. A sump should be enough to collect the water and draw down the table around the structure. The sump should hold enough for most seasons. But you will want a pump for the spring thaw. If you dig a sump try to center it as much as possible. Lookup draw down cones for more information on de-watering. Really something you want to think about before laying foundation. Grade and drainage is really important in civil engineering.
Prett amazed at the amount of water, and the fact that your first drain install attempt isn’t working much at all. It does look like the new one will do the job!
Just stand back and look at the geology, pedology. Very much saturated organics so the water table is just below surface. This will be a recurring problem unless he creates a small reservoir
Another note. As advised to me by the pros, you do not want water moving underneath the foundation. it will slowly erode and weaken the base which is holding the foundation causing cracks and settling over time.
Exactly agree 100% from a commercial waterproofer down here East Coast man with his kind of money and resources he should have built that cabin about 6 feet above is now because he wanted a basement underneath to walk into and have his little house thing prior video he showed because he’s below grade and it’s not gonna work and his situation now what I would do is do the drains but also dig all around that concrete wall and I would put waterproofing material a product called Tremco. It’s below Grade, rubberized product along with a mesh and plastic backer board and it works great in Miami and other places for parking garage that are below sea level
A few questions to consider: 1) What is the water table depth? 2) Does the water seep in from around the building? 3) Where does water from the roof go? 4) Have you water proofed the exterior of the foundation?
Your grade needs to fall away from foundation, with no gutter system and no where for water to run it’s going to be an ongoing problem, this guy is something else
Excavate and install a weeping tile system around the perimeter, into a sump with a pump and alarm. If it works for 9 ft deep basements it’ll work for a crawl space.
Depends on where the ground water level is at, there is a difference in ability in regards to putting a drain system in a desert compared to a mountain compared to a swamp, no drain tile system would keep up with groundwater in the center of the floor without 100% waterproofing under the crawlspace
1, Grace bituthene water proofing membrane and dimple board around foundation. Such as Water Seal or Carlise products! 2, schedule 35 preferated pipe with fabric sock around foundation , put below footer and add T’s for clean out at corners 3, lay down landscaping fabric, the black stuff that comes in 10 foot rolls. Not that crappy stuff from home depot ! Fill the hole up with 2 b river gravel, all the way up to grade. Then add bigger river rock for decor. No dirt!
Might be better to just lift the whole building now. Build up the elevation and foundation so that the problem is fixed the correct and permanent way. Less stress in the future. Either way, good luck!
Water issues can be a persistent problem, and while installing a sump pump is a step in the right direction, a permanent drainage system is the real solution. Based on personal experience, I recommend making a few key upgrades to ensure your system is effective and long-lasting. First, replace the black flexible culvert pipe with solid PVC pipe. The black pipe might be convenient initially, but it’s prone to crushing over time. PVC offers the durability you need for a reliable system. At the end of the pipe, consider adding a Y-joint to create two drainage outlets. This setup acts as a fail-safe, so if one side ever gets blocked, water can still flow through the other. Additionally, protect the pipe ends with a sturdy cover or grate. Something durable, like a concrete or steel plate, will keep the pipe from getting crushed or damaged by yardwork or heavy equipment. For a comprehensive fix, dig a drainage pipe that runs directly beneath the footer of your home and into the crawl space. This approach addresses the water problem at its source and prevents seepage into critical areas. Don’t forget to install a backflow preventer to keep water from reversing into your crawl space during heavy rains. Taking the time to implement these changes can save you from ongoing frustrations and provide a permanent solution to your water issues.
As a fellow proho with an excavator (Kubota KX-161-3), let me tell you about a little experience I had once while clearing a neighbor's field of blackberries.... I was doing nothing out of the ordinary when one of the hoses, right at the point where the stick bends off the cab, burst. It happened to be the most exposed hose, and fortunately, I had the cab window closed because it sprayed hot hydraulic oil all over the cab window. Had it been open, I'd be dealing with the after-affects still. I don't open that window for any reason anymore. I'm not sure why there is no shield between the operator and the hoses, but there should be. It could have been a very bad day/year.
Consider covering those lines in an abrasion resistant sleeve. This can protect the line from abrasion and UV, and minimize the harm if and when a line does fail.
Hoses wear out, definitely an inspection item. Great point on the door since most people don't think of that happening. Me included. (Anyone else see the garbage truck video on YT? fire and all)
All hoses should have a protective sleeve to resist abrasion, minimize risk of puncture, and SHIELD anyone near by from the force of a sudden rupture no matter where on is at outside the cab.
The question should be: How is the water getting there in the first place? Gutter/downspouts directing the water away from the foundation should be step 1. Waterstop between the footer and the poured wall apparently wasn't done...big mistake. French drain has to be at or below the footer and surrounded by gravel to be effective.
If I might suggest,, "Put another inch in." No,, Put another foot in. Ground water can be defeated, but no half measures. Another inch can be defeated by a heavy drizzle. Your final trench looked good.
UK government is aiming for 2 new houses to be built built every minute. Yes. 120 an hour. In our tiny island. I bet 9/10 folk wouldn’t bother with this degree of attention to detail and care to “do it right” with that kind of pressure. I sure won’t be buying a brand new house any time soon. Deep respect to you for putting in the graft!
I never comment on his channel but it amazes me someone who runs an excavator as much as he has can't understand the water table is high where he is located. No amount of drains will solve this problem. Raise the cabin up and pour a taller foundation or you'll be running sump pump all the time. I grew up in a home with a wet basement and those are the options. For those saying gutters and drain pipes, this is not the solution.
As someone who measures the water table in Idaho for work this surprises me. Water table peak is generally in July out west. He should have seen the high water earlier if that was the issue.
Yep, it's hard to see but I think they didn't infill the crawlspace floor after pouring the footings. So now the finished floor height is level with the bottom of the footings while the holes of the perf pipe are closer to the top of the footings. Combine that with the water table bringing water literally up from underneath the foundation, and it's no wonder the drain can't redirect it.
Dig a separate hole a little ways away in the field. Unconnected to the other trenches. When you hit water, use the grade laser to measure the height compared to the water in the trench and the crawl space. If they are all at the same level, that shows it's probably the water table in the field.
My house had a similar problem. The solution was to install a sump pump in the lowest point of the crawlspace. The sump pump sits in a basin that's lower than the surrounding crawlspace floor. Perforated pipes were laid around the crawlspace to collect water and direct it into the basin. In my case, I had a nearby storm drain that could handle the pumped water. You'll need to figure out a suitable way to discharge the water from your crawlspace, whether it's a storm drain, a dry well, or another method. Good luck!
not good solution, water is entering your crowlspace under your footings so you are constantly moving with water particles under your footings and they will settle down unequaly
@@nofxcasey If your underground water level is high there are only two solutions, french drain as deep as posible around whole house, which will drop water level in whole area or fill crowl space with gravel, vapor barier and 4" concrete, vapor barier shloud be above water level
I'm a recent transplant in Corpus Christi, tx. I used to live in the valley in Oregon. I currently live in my car while attending a trade school for HVACR. Seeing you turn on the heat made me wonder how cold it was that morning. Today it hit 50. Normally I wouldn't have thought that was cold, but that was after I sort of got used to to 90+ F heat.
Wish you all the best buddy hang in there and get your education and in 10 years if the world is still here, stop back by here and let us know where you're at
Was in your shoes 20 years ago. Two trash bags of clothes, a Ford Ranger, and my then girlfriend now wife figured out how to get me into HVAC trade school. It has opened so many doors for me. Study hard and get certified. If you're willing to work hard and go, you'll be on your feet in no time. God bless
Great video on troubleshooting and resolving a drainage problem as soon as possible in a new build. Nothing is worse than putting a lot of time and effort into construction only to see it deteriorate prematurely from water infiltration!
Sorry! Don't get discouraged. I will pray that God will give you his joy to the fullest and then if nothing else...you can sing while you work. It's too cold to have to do this but I will pray it will go by fast and maybe He will send you some helpers. Wishing You Blessings Brother !
I would definitely say I like the idea of putting drain rock on the sides with a perforated pipe but I would wrap the rock and pipe in a permeable fabric because overtime the dirt will settle in the pipe and in the rock and just stop the drainage
1. Deeper French drain all sides around the foundation. At least a couple feet below crawl space grade and footing. 2. Daylight away from house, build a detention pond if needed. 3. Sump pump.
Every operator I work with started in the hole. And they were the best hand for a couple years at least some more. None are lazy. Boss says it perfect… if you want to operate, you’re gonna labor too.
I live in the same county as he does . Most of us would kill for Any water table problems as we mostly dry farm winter wheat . There is not enough rain to grow anything else if you do not have a well And the Water Rights to use it !
I live in Massachusetts on the ocean, where our house is 58 feet above sea level, and I get constant water under my foundation from December to May. From January to March, my sump pump kicks on every 3 minutes! I have a spare completely hooked up and ready to go in the hole as soon as this one dies, and I have a high water alarm in the sump hole so when it DOES stop working, I have about 12 inches of time to swap the pumps! French drains are great, as long as the water table isn't where the French drain needs to go! I noticed you have a color demarcation line on the foundation that looks about 12 inches down from the window. Was it possible that the water rose to that level ? Keep on bringing the content! 16 years !!! you sir have managed the times well!
If your sump kicks on every 3 minutes, you might have a crack in the outside line. You pump water out and the same water comes right back in. You should consider a dye test.
@@iqvoice it only happens when the water table rises enough to fill the sump hole... its been bone dry since April of last year, and once the drought here ends, It will take a month but then it wil come up for the winter, then go back down in the summer... Been in the house for 12 years and I can almost set my clock to it LOL
In Minnesota, we install drainage system next to the foundation and skim coat sealant on the outside of the concrete wall. Even then, standing water will seep in through the concrete. Landscape away from the home and install gutters.
This brings back memories of my parents wine/root cellar. Dad kept (still does) a pump down there. The water table was really high. My dad and uncle had drains put in the fields to lower the water table and help the crops grow better. I'm not sure why, but the last few years he's having trouble again.
Midwest man here ! Drain tile at bottom of footing on outside , backfill with stone entirely, only about 6 inches of dirt on top . Drain tile on inside of foundation also , tied together. They go to daylight or go a pump ! Problem solved .
Hind sight is always 20/20 but that property looks like it sits low and is always wet, probably should've hauled pit run in and built the pad up but with what you have to work with now I'd put those drains in as deep as you can especially since they're going to be farther away from the foundation. If you have 2 feet of fall I'd go 12-18 inches deep, 6 inches of fall for 150 feet should be enough.
Using Underseal Underslab Membrane is a great way to eliminate this issue. It forms a mechanical bond to the underside of the concrete and exterior beam and turns the foundation into a boat. Gravel and exterior drain tile as a back up and you are golden.
Hey Wranglestar - i'm going to be honest the best way to fix this properly - is going to be to dig yourself drainage pool a good 50 feet away from the property, on the lower side of the field - and then make sure that drainage pool has somewhere to drain to slowly over time - i know it sounds a bit sill but the problem you have is the clay layer is saturating slowly and allowing the water to fill and then raise during flooding and wet weather. Gravel, and a decent deep basin nearby are your friend. My Father was a civil engineer and he knew a lot about sewer systems, drainage, and soil permeability.
the pressure that put water in the space was the height in water column to the surface, this is going to be much, much,h more force than, it draining out to the tile. So just because it's not draining, does not mean that once you get your tile fixed it will flood again , you can cant have water stacking up around the footer
As an operator, it bugged me to see you guys digging without clearing the water first, dig the other end first so the water can drain/run out first, wen you are dealing with water, you want to work dry as possible Unblocking the other end wouldve gotten the water somewhat out of there and keep your material dryer as possible, so you can maybe reuse it if need be, if it be me, go 6” lower than the footing, all around the cabin, lay 2-3” of drain rock, lay your pipes and fill to the top with drain rock, it will catch any water that way around the building, its costly a bit but cheaper than water damage in the cabin 👍 Its never easy to work with water, you will get it
In my experience doing a project like you’re doing right now you should be using a non-woven drainage fabric in the trench before you put in your stone and drainage pipe, then wrap the non-woven material around the gravel to stop any fine particle dirt from getting into the drainage gravel doing so will make your drainage system last much longer
If i remember the texts correctly, and it was a long time ago, I think it has something to do with pore water pressure causing the water to come up into the crawl space. Even though the slotted pipe was as footing level, the path of least resistance caused it to find the crawl space. :) Correct me if I am wrong, happy to be taught something new/corrected
my family in Minn. have these same issues. the clay doesn't let the water drain away and pushes the water up and out of the ground when there is a lot of water. the sump pumps go below the basement level and pump water out. also a nice place to drain the basement shower.
Its the high water table. You'll need the perf pipe within the actual crawl space (below grade ideally) and then daylight it out under the foundation drain (assuming you put a foundation low point drain in).
Question - is cold climate a factor in this situation? Where I am from we always need things buried below the frost line to prevent freezing. Learning as I watch & read the comments. Thanks!
You want to keep your water as far away from your foundation as possibly to stop moisture transfer to your crawlspace, That goes for depth as well as horizontal location. You don't want a river 6" under yours slab. Find out what your max drop off is, and dig your drain trench to that depth +4 or 5% (Minimum requirement is 2%). That will ensure you have good flow away and as much dry soil under your slab as possible. (Obviously after a certain depth, it does get ridiculous, so that's discretionary, but I would be really happy if I could keep the river 3.5 ft under my slab and I had good vapor barrier. If the end of the drain doesn't drop off drastically, a french drain (Gravel pit/field) at the end should be built. I'm just a Carpenter though, not an engineer..
French drain under the middle of house #1. Slope grade under house to the French drain. All Solid pipe drain lines out side of foundation to a deep leach field full of gravel. You don’t want to encourage water to drain under the footings then your house will settled because the compaction is being compromised. You will have to dry it over time. I’ve done this many times on raised foundation builds. Hope this helps.
Here in Canada we install French drains all around our houses at the level of the foundation base (a 6 feet deep trench with a pipe all around the house and the pipe then brings water away). Also add a sump pump to pump away any water coming in. And finally add a secondary electric power solution for that pump in case there is no electricity. So in conclusion, yes to it all around the house. Do it once and be fine for the next 20 years. Good luck with this.
Digging a French drain around the perimeter will probably stop water intrusion from the surface, but you may still get water from beneath. If the land is saturated it may "wick up" through the soil. The temperature differential between outside vs inside could cause this, I'm not sure. Seems the safe bet is digging a sump in the crawlspace to prevent this from happening. Good luck!
I believe you should dig all around the cabin deep you have the equipment. I mean at least 50 feet all around replace that beautiful soil with sugar sand or pool sand then the water will go with the flow of pitch. Recover the top soil with loam only about six inches now water will go with the grade. Dig down til the bottom of foundation.
Mound builders along time ago , built up there site before building on there flat planned area. My heart feels for you right now. Gutters and concrete around your whole cabin. Add a ditch towards the greatest slope from the cabin . Then plan fruit trees or anything that grows well in your area along both sides of the ditch. I my humble opinion
Living somewhere that can easily get 8 inches of rain in 2 hours. Proper French drain fully encompassing the structure is always a win. I'd over build it, 12 inches seems to be the trick. But maybe go one better and install a drain inside the footing directly in each corner, to the French drain eliminating the need for a sump.
i'm no engineer ?, but i would be very careful about digging too close to that side, reason: its posb you may create lose ground near that foundation, and it might start sinking from all the water near it ?. hope it works for ya !.
Drain pipe can drain water away or bring water in. You need to daylight the drainpipe to an area lower in elevation so the water can constantly drain away.
I'm not the biggest fan of "Big O" pipe we prefer to use 4 inch perf PVC it doesn't sag and move around like big O. PVC is expensive but its a heck of a lot cheaper than water damage. We also like to use 3/4 or 1 inch clear crush so much easier to work with than the regular inch and half round stone drain rock. I think for your situation you are in farm land the water table is a little higher than normal. Load up the trenches heavy with clear stone and pipe its all you can do. We are on a drainage job currently its been a hair puller we are hoping its going to solve the homeowners water problems.
The road appears to have been built up above the level of the prairie, and that's probably what should have been done with the cabin. The whole thing should be sitting on a big pile of rocks. The current problem is water, but what will happen when there's a drought? Will the foundation shift and crack? If you dig all around the cabin the water will just fill up the dug area because you will have made that the low point. Where is the natural lowest point in the area? It looks very flat. Any further trenching will draw water from everywhere the trench goes through. If you try to draw the water towards a basin that you dig, when it's an especially wet period the water will stop draining.
Transparency is this channels root to success
The best solution is to dig a pond deep enough and broad enough to deal with this seasonal flooding and make sure if it overflows that the water level at its fill level is still six inches below the bottom of his footing with drainage away from the property. The land is too flat for any less, and that will be the cheapest long term solution.
You mean his outward Homophobia? That transparency?
route and channel's and .
I say dig a moat and build a drawbridge
Truly a medieval pro ho.
Beat me to the punch! The soil removed to build the moat is then used to build a dike. Or you could just pick the whole building up another 6 feet to get above that flood plane.
Silent : I like your thinking ...lol
Second! 👨🏻⚖️
Think that'll be the next 20-part séries!
Really enjoying the DIY Cozy Houseboat series.
😂😂😂
East coast man here. French drains 6in bellow footer. Backfill to surface with wash stone. Problem solved!
We do the same (pretty much) in sweden! 🙂
And weeping tile along the footing
Guy who's seen This Old House. I concur.
High country man here in Colorado.. We have a French drain on the uphill side of the house and diverts to avoid erosion,
My uncle Ernie did ag drains all around my house and inside the subfloor in Sydney. Also had to underpin and repoint in spots with the foundation sitting on clay and not sandstone. Bone frick’n dry forever. Pumps are for pussies; power or pump goes out and you’re sitting in a puddle. Best way is to prevent the water from penetrating in the first place. You gotta position the ag drains at the rock layer so the water flows into the drains. Anything above will allow the water to flow around and under back into the house.
Eastcoast man here... Shame the Westcoast man didn't understand water flows down hill to daylight... 😅
This video is giving horrible flashbacks. My contractor did the same thing and put a drain at level of the bottom of the foundation footer. He then backfilled the crawlspace with dirt so when the water came in, the crawl space was a knee deep slurry. Absolutely awful. I encapsulated and added three sump pumps that ran every 30 minutes year round for two years before I finally go my own equipment and added another deeper drain. Now my sump pumps only run in the winter. So I guess I have to go deeper yet again. I spent 15K on encapsulating, several thousand on sump pumps, and bought a tractor with a backhoe when all my contractor had to do was take an afternoon and dig a deeper trench.
Thanks for bringing us along. You could have easily hidden this, but the transparency is appreciated. Sometimes things don’t go as planned. I know it’s a bad situation, and I’m sure you must be stressed. Praying for ya, Cody.
Never let a good disaster go-to waste. Content is content....
Chiming in late here, but I've built 30+ houses with crawl spaces, and it's critical to ensure that the grade inside the crawl space is higher than the exterior grade. The detail we use is masonry block 32" high, with the first 8" course of block backfilled inside the crawl space. I always keep the final grade on the outside 4" lower than the grade inside, and this eliminates the ground water issue. Sump pumps, gutters, and french drains help, but they don't work without some maintenance.
I don't understand how the inside grade can be higher than the outside & be buried... I can't picture that?
French drains specs around here call for 2B "clean" stone to allow water to flow readily through. With as much rain as you get I'd consider wrapping the drain around the cabin to isolate the footing from the ground water in any direction. Cheap insurance. We damp proof the walls too, but that doesnt help much if you have standing water against the wall.
Glad you found this out before anything was placed in the crawl space that would have cost $$$ to replace.
Its an honest man that shows when things dont work out.
So the stone joined the 2B Movement?
I was watching one of your old videos and saw it was about tire chains. You were putting them on you pickup and the had cam-locks. I thought I would let you know and your viewer that when I drove semi-trucks, we would always paint the cam-lock tool red so you could away find it in the snow. Just another helpful tip.
I think you are spot on regarding digging a trench and putting drain pipes on the other side/the high side, since it looks like the water is following the elevation thus you need to drain on the high side to prevent it going into the foundation in the first place. The trench you dug today, is useful for emptying the foundation but will not prevent getting into the foundation thus it will remain damp at the very best. You want to put trenches around the foundation on the high side to prevent it getting into the foundation in the first place.
Your problem is the road right next to the cabin. It’s elevated above the field and all the runoff goes down into the field. Your field is oversaturated. You can see how dark your dirt is. It’s been very wet and has not dried out in a long time. Unfortunately that area is not gonna be good to build. It is what it is as you’ve already built that cabin, but you should’ve built the dirt up higher than the road before even making the foundation your best bet is to run a ditch along the road, and then the trench down the side of the cabin perpendicular to the road to redirect runoff
There is a ditch beside the road .... you must have missed the culvert episode ....
4:50 no not where the house is. Needs to be on that side of the road between the cabin @@wutafungi
I think you are right. The house might tilt in a few years. Water problems will never leave you.
@yukiohorie7 do you know anything about construction ..?
@@wutafungi Well not as much as you obviously. But then again let's ses. I really don't want to get into a debate with a person that doesn't even say his own name thank you.
French drain all around with stone on top. Then dig a well or sump, potentially up to 4 wells around the structure at the corners. They need to go down deep enough to draw down the water table. A sump should be enough to collect the water and draw down the table around the structure. The sump should hold enough for most seasons. But you will want a pump for the spring thaw. If you dig a sump try to center it as much as possible. Lookup draw down cones for more information on de-watering.
Really something you want to think about before laying foundation. Grade and drainage is really important in civil engineering.
Prett amazed at the amount of water, and the fact that your first drain install attempt isn’t working much at all. It does look like the new one will do the job!
Just stand back and look at the geology, pedology. Very much saturated organics so the water table is just below surface. This will be a recurring problem unless he creates a small reservoir
Another note. As advised to me by the pros, you do not want water moving underneath the foundation. it will slowly erode and weaken the base which is holding the foundation causing cracks and settling over time.
Exactly agree 100% from a commercial waterproofer down here East Coast man with his kind of money and resources he should have built that cabin about 6 feet above is now because he wanted a basement underneath to walk into and have his little house thing prior video he showed because he’s below grade and it’s not gonna work and his situation now what I would do is do the drains but also dig all around that concrete wall and I would put waterproofing material a product called Tremco. It’s below Grade, rubberized product along with a mesh and plastic backer board and it works great in Miami and other places for parking garage that are below sea level
The cabin looks great
A few questions to consider:
1) What is the water table depth?
2) Does the water seep in from around the building?
3) Where does water from the roof go?
4) Have you water proofed the exterior of the foundation?
Your grade needs to fall away from foundation, with no gutter system and no where for water to run it’s going to be an ongoing problem, this guy is something else
He is a dumbass
He's either a boomer or gen-x..you can't tell them anything that'll stick.
@@akmarksman He's gen-x. Leaded gasoline got them.
Excavate and install a weeping tile system around the perimeter, into a sump with a pump and alarm. If it works for 9 ft deep basements it’ll work for a crawl space.
Depends on where the ground water level is at, there is a difference in ability in regards to putting a drain system in a desert compared to a mountain compared to a swamp, no drain tile system would keep up with groundwater in the center of the floor without 100% waterproofing under the crawlspace
Correct...he must know what the problem is "exactly" and know how it operates to come up with the fix...
This is the correct answer
This is only the correct answer if power and backup power is acceptable.
@@ps-gq5kmhe already showed he has plenty of power in previous videos. And some sump pumps have battery backup for when power goes out.
1, Grace bituthene water proofing membrane and dimple board around foundation. Such as Water Seal or Carlise products!
2, schedule 35 preferated pipe with fabric sock around foundation , put below footer and add T’s for clean out at corners
3, lay down landscaping fabric, the black stuff that comes in 10 foot rolls. Not that crappy stuff from home depot ! Fill the hole up with 2 b river gravel, all the way up to grade. Then add bigger river rock for decor. No dirt!
Might be better to just lift the whole building now. Build up the elevation and foundation so that the problem is fixed the correct and permanent way. Less stress in the future. Either way, good luck!
Water issues can be a persistent problem, and while installing a sump pump is a step in the right direction, a permanent drainage system is the real solution. Based on personal experience, I recommend making a few key upgrades to ensure your system is effective and long-lasting. First, replace the black flexible culvert pipe with solid PVC pipe. The black pipe might be convenient initially, but it’s prone to crushing over time. PVC offers the durability you need for a reliable system. At the end of the pipe, consider adding a Y-joint to create two drainage outlets. This setup acts as a fail-safe, so if one side ever gets blocked, water can still flow through the other. Additionally, protect the pipe ends with a sturdy cover or grate. Something durable, like a concrete or steel plate, will keep the pipe from getting crushed or damaged by yardwork or heavy equipment. For a comprehensive fix, dig a drainage pipe that runs directly beneath the footer of your home and into the crawl space. This approach addresses the water problem at its source and prevents seepage into critical areas. Don’t forget to install a backflow preventer to keep water from reversing into your crawl space during heavy rains. Taking the time to implement these changes can save you from ongoing frustrations and provide a permanent solution to your water issues.
As a fellow proho with an excavator (Kubota KX-161-3), let me tell you about a little experience I had once while clearing a neighbor's field of blackberries.... I was doing nothing out of the ordinary when one of the hoses, right at the point where the stick bends off the cab, burst. It happened to be the most exposed hose, and fortunately, I had the cab window closed because it sprayed hot hydraulic oil all over the cab window. Had it been open, I'd be dealing with the after-affects still. I don't open that window for any reason anymore. I'm not sure why there is no shield between the operator and the hoses, but there should be. It could have been a very bad day/year.
Consider covering those lines in an abrasion resistant sleeve.
This can protect the line from abrasion and UV, and minimize the harm if and when a line does fail.
Hoses wear out, definitely an inspection item. Great point on the door since most people don't think of that happening. Me included. (Anyone else see the garbage truck video on YT? fire and all)
You are a weekend operator real operator's don't worry about the little stuff like hyd hoses
To just forgo safety is a bad thing ! @@Lucysdad66
All hoses should have a protective sleeve to resist abrasion, minimize risk of puncture, and SHIELD anyone near by from the force of a sudden rupture no matter where on is at outside the cab.
The question should be: How is the water getting there in the first place?
Gutter/downspouts directing the water away from the foundation should be step 1.
Waterstop between the footer and the poured wall apparently wasn't done...big mistake.
French drain has to be at or below the footer and surrounded by gravel to be effective.
Looks like run off from the major road that runs almost right beside this cabin
Was just a poor choice for cabin placement
100% Gutter/Downspouts =problem solved.
All the crafts have a specialized skill, it’s hard to be a expert at everything, love watching your channel for this reason…
If I might suggest,, "Put another inch in." No,, Put another foot in. Ground water can be defeated, but no half measures. Another inch can be defeated by a heavy drizzle. Your final trench looked good.
UK government is aiming for 2 new houses to be built built every minute. Yes. 120 an hour. In our tiny island. I bet 9/10 folk wouldn’t bother with this degree of attention to detail and care to “do it right” with that kind of pressure. I sure won’t be buying a brand new house any time soon. Deep respect to you for putting in the graft!
Has anyone I'm parliament considered throttling demand instead of trying to boost supply?
@Skoozle yes. And they were immediately labelled “far right”. Welcome to the UK in 2024 🙃
I never comment on his channel but it amazes me someone who runs an excavator as much as he has can't understand the water table is high where he is located. No amount of drains will solve this problem. Raise the cabin up and pour a taller foundation or you'll be running sump pump all the time. I grew up in a home with a wet basement and those are the options. For those saying gutters and drain pipes, this is not the solution.
I was thinking water table. I’m about 99.9 percent sure that’s the issue
As someone who measures the water table in Idaho for work this surprises me. Water table peak is generally in July out west. He should have seen the high water earlier if that was the issue.
Yep, it's hard to see but I think they didn't infill the crawlspace floor after pouring the footings. So now the finished floor height is level with the bottom of the footings while the holes of the perf pipe are closer to the top of the footings. Combine that with the water table bringing water literally up from underneath the foundation, and it's no wonder the drain can't redirect it.
Either need to lower the whole drain, or infill the crawlspace floor with gravel to above the water table level.
Dig a separate hole a little ways away in the field. Unconnected to the other trenches. When you hit water, use the grade laser to measure the height compared to the water in the trench and the crawl space. If they are all at the same level, that shows it's probably the water table in the field.
My father is a smart man. His first gift when I bought my first house was a sump pump. Used it for 20 years now
Here in the PNW we have invented a new contraption called a Rain gutter.
Sea level rise. Gretta told me so. That's why the water keeps getting higher in you're crawl space.
Any contractor will say,6”next to foundation, paint tar on wall, pipe, gravel, fabric then cover with dirt…..
My house had a similar problem. The solution was to install a sump pump in the lowest point of the crawlspace. The sump pump sits in a basin that's lower than the surrounding crawlspace floor. Perforated pipes were laid around the crawlspace to collect water and direct it into the basin. In my case, I had a nearby storm drain that could handle the pumped water. You'll need to figure out a suitable way to discharge the water from your crawlspace, whether it's a storm drain, a dry well, or another method. Good luck!
not good solution, water is entering your crowlspace under your footings so you are constantly moving with water particles under your footings and they will settle down unequaly
@@AutoMotoTour would you recommend an exterior perf drain go in as well?
@@nofxcasey If your underground water level is high there are only two solutions, french drain as deep as posible around whole house, which will drop water level in whole area or fill crowl space with gravel, vapor barier and 4" concrete, vapor barier shloud be above water level
@@AutoMotoTour thanks. Vapor barrier is already there. I appreciate the reply
Thank goodness for Jeremiah, wish you had more able men around you
Jiraiya
I'm a recent transplant in Corpus Christi, tx. I used to live in the valley in Oregon. I currently live in my car while attending a trade school for HVACR.
Seeing you turn on the heat made me wonder how cold it was that morning. Today it hit 50. Normally I wouldn't have thought that was cold, but that was after I sort of got used to to 90+ F heat.
Keep the faith and stay in school. HVAC folks never run out of work.
I lived in my car on the beach there for a few yrs.
Wish you all the best buddy hang in there and get your education and in 10 years if the world is still here, stop back by here and let us know where you're at
Was in your shoes 20 years ago. Two trash bags of clothes, a Ford Ranger, and my then girlfriend now wife figured out how to get me into HVAC trade school. It has opened so many doors for me. Study hard and get certified. If you're willing to work hard and go, you'll be on your feet in no time. God bless
Louisiana here ummm what’s a crawl space? 😂😂
It's where the old oil well are hiding under the homes down south
It's interesting how small details were so important, in hindsight.
7:20 that’s how excavator buckets are born lol
I'd go twice that deep
Yep. Just to be safe and sure. Might as well if you're already doing it.
Thats what she said
Great video on troubleshooting and resolving a drainage problem as soon as possible in a new build. Nothing is worse than putting a lot of time and effort into construction only to see it deteriorate prematurely from water infiltration!
Yikes! Wood rot incoming. Put a sump pump in the basement
Sorry! Don't get discouraged. I will pray that God will give you his joy to the fullest and then if nothing else...you can sing while you work. It's too cold to have to do this but I will pray it will go by fast and maybe He will send you some helpers. Wishing You Blessings Brother !
I would definitely say I like the idea of putting drain rock on the sides with a perforated pipe but I would wrap the rock and pipe in a permeable fabric because overtime the dirt will settle in the pipe and in the rock and just stop the drainage
1. Deeper French drain all sides around the foundation. At least a couple feet below crawl space grade and footing.
2. Daylight away from house, build a detention pond if needed. 3. Sump pump.
We love you Sir!
Hello to all the other "Beloved's"!
Every operator I work with started in the hole. And they were the best hand for a couple years at least some more. None are lazy. Boss says it perfect… if you want to operate, you’re gonna labor too.
I live in the same county as he does . Most of us would kill for Any water table problems as we mostly dry farm winter wheat . There is
not enough rain to grow anything else if you do not have a well And the Water Rights to use it !
I live in Massachusetts on the ocean, where our house is 58 feet above sea level, and I get constant water under my foundation from December to May. From January to March, my sump pump kicks on every 3 minutes! I have a spare completely hooked up and ready to go in the hole as soon as this one dies, and I have a high water alarm in the sump hole so when it DOES stop working, I have about 12 inches of time to swap the pumps! French drains are great, as long as the water table isn't where the French drain needs to go! I noticed you have a color demarcation line on the foundation that looks about 12 inches down from the window. Was it possible that the water rose to that level ? Keep on bringing the content! 16 years !!! you sir have managed the times well!
If your sump kicks on every 3 minutes, you might have a crack in the outside line. You pump water out and the same water comes right back in. You should consider a dye test.
@@iqvoice it only happens when the water table rises enough to fill the sump hole... its been bone dry since April of last year, and once the drought here ends, It will take a month but then it wil come up for the winter, then go back down in the summer... Been in the house for 12 years and I can almost set my clock to it LOL
I'm from MA and live on an island off the coast of the North shore! Nice to meet you!
@@SilentStudioExplores swamscott?
@@firebpm4977 rockport area! Practically neighbors
In Minnesota, we install drainage system next to the foundation and skim coat sealant on the outside of the concrete wall. Even then, standing water will seep in through the concrete. Landscape away from the home and install gutters.
Mike Holmes collaboration video! You're welcome.
This brings back memories of my parents wine/root cellar. Dad kept (still does) a pump down there. The water table was really high. My dad and uncle had drains put in the fields to lower the water table and help the crops grow better. I'm not sure why, but the last few years he's having trouble again.
Automatic sump pump (or alarm) and make sure anything you store down there is 4 inches off the ground - redundancy ftw!
Midwest man here ! Drain tile at bottom of footing on outside , backfill with stone entirely, only about 6 inches of dirt on top . Drain tile on inside of foundation also , tied together. They go to daylight or go a pump ! Problem solved .
Hind sight is always 20/20 but that property looks like it sits low and is always wet, probably should've hauled pit run in and built the pad up but with what you have to work with now I'd put those drains in as deep as you can especially since they're going to be farther away from the foundation. If you have 2 feet of fall I'd go 12-18 inches deep, 6 inches of fall for 150 feet should be enough.
Gutters and rain spouts with long 4in piping to get the rain spout away from the building is going to take care of 90% of your water problem.
Using Underseal Underslab Membrane is a great way to eliminate this issue. It forms a mechanical bond to the underside of the concrete and exterior beam and turns the foundation into a boat. Gravel and exterior drain tile as a back up and you are golden.
Hey Wranglestar - i'm going to be honest the best way to fix this properly - is going to be to dig yourself drainage pool a good 50 feet away from the property, on the lower side of the field - and then make sure that drainage pool has somewhere to drain to slowly over time - i know it sounds a bit sill but the problem you have is the clay layer is saturating slowly and allowing the water to fill and then raise during flooding and wet weather. Gravel, and a decent deep basin nearby are your friend. My Father was a civil engineer and he knew a lot about sewer systems, drainage, and soil permeability.
37 seconds in and my heart is already warm
Well, ProHo can't lay in that water while sniping kneecaps for very long, so this is a troubling issue.
the pressure that put water in the space was the height in water column to the surface, this is going to be much, much,h more force than, it draining out to the tile. So just because it's not draining, does not mean that once you get your tile fixed it will flood again , you can cant have water stacking up around the footer
As an operator, it bugged me to see you guys digging without clearing the water first, dig the other end first so the water can drain/run out first, wen you are dealing with water, you want to work dry as possible
Unblocking the other end wouldve gotten the water somewhat out of there and keep your material dryer as possible, so you can maybe reuse it if need be, if it be me, go 6” lower than the footing, all around the cabin, lay 2-3” of drain rock, lay your pipes and fill to the top with drain rock, it will catch any water that way around the building, its costly a bit but cheaper than water damage in the cabin 👍
Its never easy to work with water, you will get it
Next week: Negotiating with the Army Corps of Engineers to move a Cozy Cabin!
In my experience doing a project like you’re doing right now you should be using a non-woven drainage fabric in the trench before you put in your stone and drainage pipe, then wrap the non-woven material around the gravel to stop any fine particle dirt from getting into the drainage gravel doing so will make your drainage system last much longer
😢 Forget about East Coast man vs. West Coast man. Northern Canadian man builds into ROCK 🪨
Old Cody never afraid to eat a piece of humble pie got to respect it
If i remember the texts correctly, and it was a long time ago, I think it has something to do with pore water pressure causing the water to come up into the crawl space. Even though the slotted pipe was as footing level, the path of least resistance caused it to find the crawl space. :) Correct me if I am wrong, happy to be taught something new/corrected
Jack up the whole cabin and add stilts. That water table is super high.
An East Coast man would come give you a hand and help you out. I hope it works out well for you. PRAYERS 👊🏻
Great video! Love the first person footage from the operator's view. Best of luck with the project. You're channel is second to none
my family in Minn. have these same issues. the clay doesn't let the water drain away and pushes the water up and out of the ground when there is a lot of water. the sump pumps go below the basement level and pump water out. also a nice place to drain the basement shower.
Definitely add a sump pump. The water might not drain with freezing conditions.
Deep permanent concrete sump basin that everything drains to and an indicator that pump is working. You got this, God bless and stay safe.
Its the high water table. You'll need the perf pipe within the actual crawl space (below grade ideally) and then daylight it out under the foundation drain (assuming you put a foundation low point drain in).
Question - is cold climate a factor in this situation?
Where I am from we always need things buried below the frost line to prevent freezing.
Learning as I watch & read the comments. Thanks!
If I might make a suggestion, let the water make your levels right when the water runs away. You've got the right grade❤
West cost man here, your laser is ancient!
You want to keep your water as far away from your foundation as possibly to stop moisture transfer to your crawlspace,
That goes for depth as well as horizontal location. You don't want a river 6" under yours slab.
Find out what your max drop off is, and dig your drain trench to that depth +4 or 5% (Minimum requirement is 2%). That will ensure you have good flow away and as much dry soil under your slab as possible. (Obviously after a certain depth, it does get ridiculous, so that's discretionary, but I would be really happy if I could keep the river 3.5 ft under my slab and I had good vapor barrier.
If the end of the drain doesn't drop off drastically, a french drain (Gravel pit/field) at the end should be built.
I'm just a Carpenter though, not an engineer..
As someone who has had flooding in my real home not my spare play home.. I feel your pain. Good luck
French drain under the middle of house #1. Slope grade under house to the French drain. All Solid pipe drain lines out side of foundation to a deep leach field full of gravel. You don’t want to encourage water to drain under the footings then your house will settled because the compaction is being compromised. You will have to dry it over time. I’ve done this many times on raised foundation builds. Hope this helps.
Gutter would help as well but snow there wont allow
Like your humor and your channel. Bummer on that flooding. You'll figure it out.
... Dude, it's my humble opinion that the third time someone refers to themselves as a hetero man it's time to question...
... Loud and clear...
On a positive note, it's finally raining! People say it rains here in Oregon; Not like it did in the 80's & 90's.
Here in Canada we install French drains all around our houses at the level of the foundation base (a 6 feet deep trench with a pipe all around the house and the pipe then brings water away). Also add a sump pump to pump away any water coming in. And finally add a secondary electric power solution for that pump in case there is no electricity. So in conclusion, yes to it all around the house. Do it once and be fine for the next 20 years. Good luck with this.
Digging a French drain around the perimeter will probably stop water intrusion from the surface, but you may still get water from beneath.
If the land is saturated it may "wick up" through the soil. The temperature differential between outside vs inside could cause this, I'm not sure. Seems the safe bet is digging a sump in the crawlspace to prevent this from happening.
Good luck!
agree. pair a fenestrated pipe next to the solid pvc pipe
If you use the glow plugs you shouldn't get that much smoke.
Seems like it’s just a high water table, I would dig a French drain around cabin
Crazy that the drain on grade isn't draining that and you need the deeper french drain.... but if it works, it's not stupid.
that whole cabin is settling faster in the back than the front
I believe you should dig all around the cabin deep you have the equipment. I mean at least 50 feet all around replace that beautiful soil with sugar sand or pool sand then the water will go with the flow of pitch. Recover the top soil with loam only about six inches now water will go with the grade. Dig down til the bottom of foundation.
One word: Gutters. Otherwise all that roof water must be removed by your drain system.
Mound builders along time ago , built up there site before building on there flat planned area. My heart feels for you right now. Gutters and concrete around your whole cabin. Add a ditch towards the greatest slope from the cabin . Then plan fruit trees or anything that grows well in your area along both sides of the ditch. I my humble opinion
Living somewhere that can easily get 8 inches of rain in 2 hours. Proper French drain fully encompassing the structure is always a win. I'd over build it, 12 inches seems to be the trick. But maybe go one better and install a drain inside the footing directly in each corner, to the French drain eliminating the need for a sump.
i'm no engineer ?, but i would be very careful about digging too close to that side, reason: its posb you may create lose ground near that foundation, and it might start sinking from all the water near it ?. hope it works for ya !.
Drain pipe can drain water away or bring water in. You need to daylight the drainpipe to an area lower in elevation so the water can constantly drain away.
I'm not the biggest fan of "Big O" pipe we prefer to use 4 inch perf PVC it doesn't sag and move around like big O. PVC is expensive but its a heck of a lot cheaper than water damage. We also like to use 3/4 or 1 inch clear crush so much easier to work with than the regular inch and half round stone drain rock. I think for your situation you are in farm land the water table is a little higher than normal. Load up the trenches heavy with clear stone and pipe its all you can do. We are on a drainage job currently its been a hair puller we are hoping its going to solve the homeowners water problems.
The cold start i appreciate bruv
Also like others said Your transparency is admirable
Thank you sir
Glad you shared this! Very interesting to see how to remedy the issue using gravity/slope.
I think problem is his crawl space is lower that his yard
The road appears to have been built up above the level of the prairie, and that's probably what should have been done with the cabin. The whole thing should be sitting on a big pile of rocks. The current problem is water, but what will happen when there's a drought? Will the foundation shift and crack? If you dig all around the cabin the water will just fill up the dug area because you will have made that the low point. Where is the natural lowest point in the area? It looks very flat. Any further trenching will draw water from everywhere the trench goes through. If you try to draw the water towards a basin that you dig, when it's an especially wet period the water will stop draining.