I've been dealing with nutsedge here in Florida for years. Yesterday I stacked sedge hammer and sulfentrazone. Sulfentrazone I used at half the low rate as my Bermuda is very young. The sedge was kicked in the Dick today to put it mildly with no visible turf injury. Ill follow up with more dismiss next month to get closer the preemergent mark. Thank you
As someone new to lawn care, your videos have really helped me understand each of the building blocks and pitfalls that are involved with making a lawn care system. Keep up the great work.
Nutsedge in NY 🤯 I really appreciate the time you took to make this detailed presentation. I agree with changing the attack plan. If they spread via tubers, then attack the tubers. I will do some more research looking to find if some of the items are in granular form
Great information! Going to give this a try. I have a flower bed infested with nutsedge. Though I’m a little nervous re-calculating oz per acre to oz for 10 sq ft 😱
Tower now has a residential lawn and landscape label. However, it is a severe root pruner. I use it as an alternate MOA for Goosegrass. Does nothing for Purple Nutsedge. Which is the #1 weed here in Hawaii.
thanks matt!! This type of video is VERY helpful. In discussing the chemical names, it helps to list the product names like you did in the early part of this video. TY. . I know a lot of the names by product name, and then get lost in the AI names. My back yard is covered in Sedge, and now I have a method to go after it. TY!! My biggest takeaway from this vid is how to get that Pre em effect via multiple applications at the proper timing. I better get started ASAP...LOL.
Great stuff, no doubt I’ll be referencing and rewatching this if I have to tackle sedges Identifying purple v. yellow also seems critical to formulate a proper plan
Mat, I think your videos are a tremendous help. However I have a problem with putting together a program. I was going to use Echelon as a pre-emergent follow up a month later with another Echelon application, then Dismiss or Sedgehammer or both if needed. When I got the Echelon I then realized that it has a large concentration of Prodiamine (27.3%) and less concentration of Sulfentrazone (13.6%) than Dismiss (39.6%). The problem is that my lawn company has already spread two rounds of Barricade at 0.3673 oz/1000sqft. I think I'm at my limit for Prodiamine for the year and I'm concerned about overseeding in the fall. So, I'm thinking of saving the echelon until next year and applying Dismiss (4oz/A) right now. Spotted first signs of Yellow Nutsedge on 5/31 (498 GDD). Now 6/9 (668 GDD) and seeing one lawn pretty well populated with NS. Two questions -- 1) Which product should I use Dismiss or DIsmiss NXT, and 2) Should I try to get 12oz/A down now (ie 3 apps of 4oz/A before mid-July)? I could follow up with Sedgehammer in July or August if needed. You mentioned that Sulfentrazone works better early rather than late so that's why I'm asking. It is still pretty cool with only two days with highs in the 70s so far in June. Can a KBG/PRG lawn take 8oz/A in 3 or 4 weeks with temps in the high 70's low 80's? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
HI Matt. Great video. I am located on Cape Cod. I've had Yellow Nutsedge for several years, and it is now up to 1,000 out of 14,000 sqft of my lawn. The lawns are a KBG/RPG mix with one sports area being dwarf KBG. Last summer we put down the following -- on 7/8 Acclaim, 8/23 Trupower/Dismiss/Quinclorac, and 8/29 Dismiss. After my lawn company applied the Dismiss, I followed with a DIY application of Sedgehammer. Nutsedge seemed to die off, but it was late in the season. Emergence has been in August in the past, however last year it was in July. This year I want to do a PRE/POST program as you have suggested, but I'm concerned about which products are best, what concentrations to use, and timing of the PRE and Post applications. Any recommendations would be helpful, thanks.
Nice video. I do hope it works for you in the long run. The roots in the ground can go very deep and hard to kill the nuts. Not sure if your product is a systemic one or not but it needs to be if you want to kill it for good. The percentage seems to be pretty low on the label. If it comes back next year try using a product called Dismiss herbicide. Still might take a couple shots to kill it though even with a pro product. I use 4 oz per treatment for 1 acre lawn. No more than 12 oz per year.
Thanks for watching! This video covers everything from PPOIs (like sulfentrazone [dismiss]) to true systemic ALS inhibiors (like imazosulfuron[celero])
I like Celsius & Dismiss works good for me even think I got kill off on young Dallas grass. Your the man! keep them coming your videos help me out a lot! Thanks man.
Hi. I am in Salem Mass and have 3 large sections of yellow sedge. I spray most of my products. What would be my best way of actually killing and not just knocking it down? Would that take several years? Which combo is best for me? Just the post emergents 3X or the pre combo in your video?
Would you recommend (or not recommend ) spraying any chemicals like sedgehammer, sedge ender, celero or Ortho on a brand new (1 month old) lawn? I have new tall fescue, it’s only been cut once...is the grass strong enough to have chemicals sprayed on it yet? I have a large area of well dispersed nutsedge, it’s not bunched together in patches, way too large of an area to spot spray, I may need to blanket spray. Will the chemicals damage that young grass?
I’m a rookie here and am trying to get a handle on kyllinga in my centipede lawn in Myrtle Beach SC. I’ve purchased pennant Magum and certainty to use this season along with my two spring and one fall applications of Prodiamine. It usually emerges around June. I was planning to put down one application of pennant Magum in mid to late April and certainty in June. Any help with timing of applications is appreciated.
This year I am trying Celsius and Halosulfuron for kyllinga and sedge down here in FLA. Dismiss in our heat makes me nervous especially when it is over 85 250 days a year. So far I have had good results but its sloooooooow.
Add Quicksilver if you want fast foliar action on Sedges. That is safe to use in hot weather. I have at least 120 days at or over 85 here in Hawaii. Dismiss is used when it is not hot.
@@tonytillmon2280 I would apply 4 oz per acre Sulfentrazone 4F AKA Dismiss. Carfentrazone is for enhanced foliar activity when you have gone outside of the heat window for applying Sulfentrazone. I stop spraying Sulfentrazone when temperatures are over 85 F.
Should you keep doing these videos? Let's see...when Everyone, even those who have their own channels on yard care, come to YOUR channel for these lectures,...ahh...YEAH!
So my yard has a pretty bad sedge problem, this is really my first season with the lawn and I would venture to say that it has never been treated for sedges. Would a good place to start be to apply sedgehammer and dismiss together? then start a program next year, thanks in advance?
Image will blast the nutlets off that crap ..... but it’s a gamble if your favorable turf will survive the app. Kalinga on the other hand...I did a lawn late last summer that was 2 acres of nothing but kalinga an app of dismiss and Celsius and a high quality Humic Acid app sent it to weed hell.. it’s as clean as grandmas house right now.... great video!
Image was the old school herbicide for Nutsedge back in the 1990s. The tank mix back then was Image + MSMA. Worked the first time every time. I did not have the problems other applicators had with it because I never spot sprayed it. Broadcast only.
Matt, I’m in South Florida and have St, Aug. Next year I plan on putting down prodiamine in Jan and Feb based on my 55 and 65 degree temps. If I want to follow your NUTSEDGE plan and also put down pennant magnum in March, celero in April, and monument in may, would this be too much pre/post emergent? Should I put down all at half rates. What would be your recommendation for a normal preemergent program coupled with a NUTSEDGE program. Thanks
Where can I find a good pic of common lawn weeds that I find in my lawn here In south central Kentucky... Got most weeds under control but from time to time something pops up that I have no clue what it is...
@@TheGrassFactor Thank you for letting me know. Oh, I did not know it's illegal. It's sold on Amazon www.amazon.com/Target-Plus-MSMA-48-2-Turf/dp/B00FZ3OKY4/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2TNOEQUFQU8I4&keywords=msma+target+6+plus+herbicide+2.5+gallon&qid=1557256526&s=gateway&sprefix=msma+t%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-10 and also local store in Texas www.solutionsstores.com/msma-target-6-plus-2-5gal-msma1
Maurice Fails, you’ll leave all those nutlets in ground and instead of one plant, you may have 3-6 new plants that can come out of those individual nutlets still in the ground.
Yeah, I've had a couple disagreements with one of their professors. Can't expect much from someone who thinks Kentucky 31 Fescue is for feeding livestock. If you want to turn their guts inside out and cause birth defects! Those who cant, teach right?
Just give me the name of something that is going to get rid of it............I don't care if it kills everything else .......I can replant grass in a couple of years......I'm not interested in the technical shit.........I'm not trying to control it........
I've been dealing with nutsedge here in Florida for years. Yesterday I stacked sedge hammer and sulfentrazone. Sulfentrazone I used at half the low rate as my Bermuda is very young. The sedge was kicked in the Dick today to put it mildly with no visible turf injury. Ill follow up with more dismiss next month to get closer the preemergent mark. Thank you
As someone new to lawn care, your videos have really helped me understand each of the building blocks and pitfalls that are involved with making a lawn care system. Keep up the great work.
Nutsedge in NY 🤯 I really appreciate the time you took to make this detailed presentation. I agree with changing the attack plan. If they spread via tubers, then attack the tubers. I will do some more research looking to find if some of the items are in granular form
Excellent information. The best I have seen on UA-cam for this problem
Great video professor Matt!
Excellent video. I just got my applicator license and I’m on a quest to gain as much knowledge as I can. Your channel’s info is incredible.
Love these videos. The professor dropping knowledge.
How this channel doesn’t have 100k subscribers is beyond me.
Great information! Going to give this a try. I have a flower bed infested with nutsedge. Though I’m a little nervous re-calculating oz per acre to oz for 10 sq ft 😱
Nutlet was Allyn's nickname in college.
Thumbs up. Thanks again for answering my questions last night. Keep up the good work.
Another fantastic video! Thank you Matt as always
Tower now has a residential lawn and landscape label. However, it is a severe root pruner. I use it as an alternate MOA for Goosegrass. Does nothing for Purple Nutsedge. Which is the #1 weed here in Hawaii.
thanks matt!! This type of video is VERY helpful. In discussing the chemical names, it helps to list the product names like you did in the early part of this video. TY. . I know a lot of the names by product name, and then get lost in the AI names. My back yard is covered in Sedge, and now I have a method to go after it. TY!! My biggest takeaway from this vid is how to get that Pre em effect via multiple applications at the proper timing. I better get started ASAP...LOL.
Great stuff, no doubt I’ll be referencing and rewatching this if I have to tackle sedges
Identifying purple v. yellow also seems critical to formulate a proper plan
Yes! Pay attention to growth habits
Thanks for this video! Top quality as always. Great job 👍
Fantastic as always Matt!
Mat, I think your videos are a tremendous help. However I have a problem with putting together a program. I was going to use Echelon as a pre-emergent follow up a month later with another Echelon application, then Dismiss or Sedgehammer or both if needed.
When I got the Echelon I then realized that it has a large concentration of Prodiamine (27.3%) and less concentration of Sulfentrazone (13.6%) than Dismiss (39.6%). The problem is that my lawn company has already spread two rounds of Barricade at 0.3673 oz/1000sqft. I think I'm at my limit for Prodiamine for the year and I'm concerned about overseeding in the fall.
So, I'm thinking of saving the echelon until next year and applying Dismiss (4oz/A) right now. Spotted first signs of Yellow Nutsedge on 5/31 (498 GDD). Now 6/9 (668 GDD) and seeing one lawn pretty well populated with NS.
Two questions -- 1) Which product should I use Dismiss or DIsmiss NXT, and 2) Should I try to get 12oz/A down now (ie 3 apps of 4oz/A before mid-July)? I could follow up with Sedgehammer in July or August if needed. You mentioned that Sulfentrazone works better early rather than late so that's why I'm asking.
It is still pretty cool with only two days with highs in the 70s so far in June. Can a KBG/PRG lawn take 8oz/A in 3 or 4 weeks with temps in the high 70's low 80's?
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Wow! Excellent Matt but I think I’m more confused than ever. Will rewatch.
Where did you get that stylish hat with the bill on the back? I kept waiting for the price tag to show on video.
nutsedge, would that be the yellow grass I see poking through my tall fescue?
HI Matt. Great video. I am located on Cape Cod. I've had Yellow Nutsedge for several years, and it is now up to 1,000 out of 14,000 sqft of my lawn. The lawns are a KBG/RPG mix with one sports area being dwarf KBG.
Last summer we put down the following -- on 7/8 Acclaim, 8/23 Trupower/Dismiss/Quinclorac, and 8/29 Dismiss. After my lawn company applied the Dismiss, I followed with a DIY application of Sedgehammer. Nutsedge seemed to die off, but it was late in the season. Emergence has been in August in the past, however last year it was in July.
This year I want to do a PRE/POST program as you have suggested, but I'm concerned about which products are best, what concentrations to use, and timing of the PRE and Post applications. Any recommendations would be helpful, thanks.
Nice video. I do hope it works for you in the long run. The roots in the ground can go very deep and hard to kill the nuts. Not sure if your product is a systemic one or not but it needs to be if you want to kill it for good. The percentage seems to be pretty low on the label. If it comes back next year try using a product called Dismiss herbicide. Still might take a couple shots to kill it though even with a pro product. I use 4 oz per treatment for 1 acre lawn. No more than 12 oz per year.
Thanks for watching! This video covers everything from PPOIs (like sulfentrazone [dismiss]) to true systemic ALS inhibiors (like imazosulfuron[celero])
Excellent video
I like Celsius & Dismiss works good for me even think I got kill off on young Dallas grass. Your the man! keep them coming your videos help me out a lot! Thanks man.
awesome combo!
@@TheGrassFactor I remember you saying it in one of your older videos I think it was, You said it was a HOT mix but works well.
Hi. I am in Salem Mass and have 3 large sections of yellow sedge. I spray most of my products. What would be my best way of actually killing and not just knocking it down? Would that take several years? Which combo is best for me? Just the post emergents 3X or the pre combo in your video?
So instead of just Sedge Hammer for nutsedge in my cool season lawn. Sulfentrazone would be a good tool to have for the Sedge and other weeds.
Would you recommend (or not recommend ) spraying any chemicals like sedgehammer, sedge ender, celero or Ortho on a brand new (1 month old) lawn? I have new tall fescue, it’s only been cut once...is the grass strong enough to have chemicals sprayed on it yet? I have a large area of well dispersed nutsedge, it’s not bunched together in patches, way too large of an area to spot spray, I may need to blanket spray. Will the chemicals damage that young grass?
I’m a rookie here and am trying to get a handle on kyllinga in my centipede lawn in Myrtle Beach SC. I’ve purchased pennant Magum and certainty to use this season along with my two spring and one fall applications of Prodiamine. It usually emerges around June. I was planning to put down one application of pennant Magum in mid to late April and certainty in June. Any help with timing of applications is appreciated.
I understood the part where you said, "What's up?" No, really . Good stuff.
Thanks for the content Matt!
This year I am trying Celsius and Halosulfuron for kyllinga and sedge down here in FLA. Dismiss in our heat makes me nervous especially when it is over 85 250 days a year. So far I have had good results but its sloooooooow.
Very slow, but effective. I would also check out certainty and celero. safe for your turftypes.
Add Quicksilver if you want fast foliar action on Sedges. That is safe to use in hot weather. I have at least 120 days at or over 85 here in Hawaii. Dismiss is used when it is not hot.
@@rey3472 Thanks for the tip on the Quicksilver
@@rey3472 would you add carfentrazone to celero as a pre-emergent program for kyllinga?
@@tonytillmon2280 I would apply 4 oz per acre Sulfentrazone 4F AKA Dismiss. Carfentrazone is for enhanced foliar activity when you have gone outside of the heat window for applying Sulfentrazone. I stop spraying Sulfentrazone when temperatures are over 85 F.
Should you keep doing these videos? Let's see...when Everyone, even those who have their own channels on yard care, come to YOUR channel for these lectures,...ahh...YEAH!
So my yard has a pretty bad sedge problem, this is really my first season with the lawn and I would venture to say that it has never been treated for sedges. Would a good place to start be to apply sedgehammer and dismiss together? then start a program next year, thanks in advance?
Would you be able to use a natural adjuvant to help foliar uptake and try to maximize results?
Has a soil drench of high volume Sedge Hammer reach the roots? And get in the roots
Image will blast the nutlets off that crap ..... but it’s a gamble if your favorable turf will survive the app. Kalinga on the other hand...I did a lawn late last summer that was 2 acres of nothing but kalinga an app of dismiss and Celsius and a high quality Humic Acid app sent it to weed hell.. it’s as clean as grandmas house right now.... great video!
Image was the old school herbicide for Nutsedge back in the 1990s. The tank mix back then was Image + MSMA. Worked the first time every time. I did not have the problems other applicators had with it because I never spot sprayed it. Broadcast only.
Nutsedge and seeding will reduce my lifespan by 10 years lol. Thanks for the video!
I definitely agree! I have been stress out for 3 years for so far.
How do you apply to kylinga in hot weather In southwest Florida with highs in the 90’s plus afternoon showers
Matt, I’m in South Florida and have St, Aug. Next year I plan on putting down prodiamine in Jan and Feb based on my 55 and 65 degree temps. If I want to follow your NUTSEDGE plan and also put down pennant magnum in March, celero in April, and monument in may, would this be too much pre/post emergent? Should I put down all at half rates. What would be your recommendation for a normal preemergent program coupled with a NUTSEDGE program. Thanks
Where can I find a good pic of common lawn weeds that I find in my lawn here In south central Kentucky...
Got most weeds under control but from time to time something pops up that I have no clue what it is...
www.weedalert.com/search-by-region-results.php?region=4
what about imazaquin ammonium? any pre-emergent effect? if so, how does it compare to trifloxysulfuron?
Though it has an imidazolinone chain, the duration comes from the sulfonylurea. So no, nowhere near the lasting impact of trifloxy
Thank Matt. Good info
What about in flower beds
You can use Sulfentrazone in ornamental beds.
I've had success with Quinclorac on sedge by accident while spraying for crabgrass.
Quinclorac will yellow it but not kill it
Why dissmiss and tenacity for rescue ap? I thought you said Tenacity was very poor in the beginning. I ask because i have these two in my shed.
Lol, then put them on your lawn and find out what he means. Ain't doing anything in the shed! :)
John Long very funny. Love to see my lawn mixing these 2 in a 105 degrees right now
Which one is safe for St Augustine grass?
Will need to consult the labels
This shit is amazing.
Trifloxysulfuron says "limited to sod production only, for st Augustine grass"
The only thing I found to kill Nutsedge is Katana and Image.
Damn good stuff! Luckily, I've only had sedge in my flower beds so far this year.
Lucky - I'm loaded with it 🤷♂️
The 3 dislikes are obviously nutlets!
Is this a new intro? Me likey.
God bless templates 😂
Wow that's a lot of information! Helpful but a lot.
Does MSMA Target 6 kill Nutsedge?
No, and it's illegal to use
@@TheGrassFactor Thank you for letting me know. Oh, I did not know it's illegal. It's sold on Amazon www.amazon.com/Target-Plus-MSMA-48-2-Turf/dp/B00FZ3OKY4/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2TNOEQUFQU8I4&keywords=msma+target+6+plus+herbicide+2.5+gallon&qid=1557256526&s=gateway&sprefix=msma+t%2Caps%2C152&sr=8-10 and also local store in Texas www.solutionsstores.com/msma-target-6-plus-2-5gal-msma1
Yes and is illegal to use on lawns
Awesome!
Why not pull?
Maurice Fails, you’ll leave all those nutlets in ground and instead of one plant, you may have 3-6 new plants that can come out of those individual nutlets still in the ground.
Please next time add one slide if your a home owner and the diy approach to a lawn
Drops the mic...
👍👍
Psssh! Purdue! What do they know!?!
Yeah, I've had a couple disagreements with one of their professors. Can't expect much from someone who thinks Kentucky 31 Fescue is for feeding livestock. If you want to turn their guts inside out and cause birth defects! Those who cant, teach right?
I think I like your video but I watch them on the hugest iPhone ever created and still cannot see shit in your charts!!! Blow them mothers up!
Not first but I’m here haha
Just give me the name of something that is going to get rid of it............I don't care if it kills everything else .......I can replant grass in a couple of years......I'm not interested in the technical shit.........I'm not trying to control it........
None of that is available anymore. Methylbromide was the solution. And its gone. So we must use these products to control it
6th
First?..
First
thank you. i hate these.