Very cool way to check for play... such an obvious way to check for freeplay, but there's NO WAY that I would have thought of that myself. Thankfully we all learn from people who are willing to share... you learned it from someone and I now learned it from you! Awesome!
Thats an awesome test. I've been slid by one of these dfi Hyundais. I had the same noise from the chain and found guide particulates in vvt solenoids. I did chains and guides. And low and behold it was bearing failure on cylinder 2. No codes no misfires.
Thank you for sharing this very useful trick tip. This would have saved me a bunch of time from figuring out a similar issue I had with my buddies 2013 GMC Terrain 2.4L. I ended up removing valve cover to inspect top end first, no issues found. Removed timing cover next only to find no issues with timing components. I Removed oil pan last and found a ton of metal debris in the bottom of the pan which looked to be bearing material. After inspecting all Connecting rods I Found Cylinder #4 had excessive play at the wrist pin. I was able to stick my camera inside to physically see the issue as I moved the connecting rod front to back.
So all that knocking was coming from the bottom oil pan because i have the same knocking problem and i dont know what it is exactly other than knocking sensor 😂
Man, I am glad I found this video. I own a 2016 Hyundai Sononta 2.4 with 86,000 miles that had a P1324. I cleared the code and reset the limp mode about two weeks ago without issue, but I feel something is wrong. We know now that these engines have a bad history with known issues. I see that Hyundai has a TSB (tool and test) that they can test for bearing slop but I have been trying to figure out a way to check it myself first, and this is it. I can hear a knock like in this video only at a higher rpm. Now I have a direction before I talk to Hyundai about it. Million Thanks
Nice. Certainly didn't sound like a big end but you couldn't have ruled out a wrist pin. Always satisfying when you nail the issue, you shouldn't be kicking yourself on this. Great job.
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics This is a great preliminary test for the bottom end. You can detect excessive piston-to-wall slop, wrist pin looseness and even some rod bearings that are getting loose. You can't argue with movement and noise on a solid steel ratchet extension like that !! Great tip !
Mario, I admire your honesty and also all the tips you give to us DIYers. I find there is usually no set approach to finding odd engine noises. You showed us something that can be very useful to us in the future. Thanks much for the heads up. 👍👍👍
We stock the OEM filter for those, and have several come in the with a noise that the filter change did "fix" it, but many have not luckily for most of those cars were still under powertrain warranty and got engines replaced at the dealer
WOW I totally forgot this tip for checking connecting rod bearings. I have never used it but I have heard of tech's doing it. thanks a ton for the reminder will definitely add it back to my list of tests. Ohh I almost forgot that test also works well on wrist pins to check for play there at well. That maybe why the sound is coming more from the top end and why is sounds different from a end rob bearing too.
Thank you for sharing this clever trick. I just got done taking the oil pan off to check for a sloppy rod bearing, only to find out that I can't even see the crankshaft. Now I'm ready to remove the spark plugs.!😊
Just came across this video. UA-cam "pushed" it out to me. I've worked on my own cars off and on since high school, so I definitely like to learn and UA-cam is a great resource now-a-days. Good stuff! 👍🏼
alot of us owners have grouped together on a few FB pages for the 1.6t (Gamma engine) and have found that while everyone recommends 5k intervals, 3-3.5k is best....I have sent oil out for analysis and both times the oil has been good and in spec, but the flashpoint was noticiably lower....also while 5w30 is recommended, some owners in hotter climate or who push the car have started using 5W40.....another car , the 1.5t Honda civic, is also having fuel dilution issues arising from the turdo direct injection, blowby and short trips in colder climates. Honda has addressed the issue with a ecu update and upping the weight of oil on the affected cars to 5w40.....translation: treat these types of engines old school - use great oil/oem filter and warm it up before heading out......also check your local dealer if you don't do your own oil changes....you'd be surprised how many use the wrong weight, semi-synth, or conventional then blame the owner/manufacturer after 70k miles.....and keep your receipts...Good Work Mario!
@@Too-Gq-For-You Go watch Scotty Kilmer, he will tell you that, that is old school thinking. Now oils are made of better blend that you can go past 5k and over 10k for synthetic oil.
I'm lucky to have one of those old school men as my dad. He showed me this same trick. He taught me, if you know how things work, sometimes the most simplest things can help you find the issue.
awesome video. i learn alot watching your channel. am glad u share your tips nd tricks. i wish my coworkers were more humble like your coworker. so i wouldnt struggle as much. thanks man
Nice find man! Got fooled the same way on an 09 Honda civic, swore it must have been top end but had one worn out con rod bearing. Mine had glitter in the oil to seal the deal. Lesson learned!
awesome job! We had an equinox in the shop with a strange knocking noise. We finally took it apart & found the piston wrist pin bushing completely gone on one cylinder & the other 3 cracking. Would have been nice to confirm with this simple test before taking it all apart. Spec for clearance is only .0002" this one had about 1/8" of play. Thanks for the videos & sharing your experiences!
I just ran into a similar issue with a 2013 GMC Terrain 2.4L eco tec. After removing oil pan I had found cylinder #4 wrist pin had failed causing a huge amount of play and the knock the customer was hearing. I found this video after my Diagnosis and went ahead and tried this trick and it worked. Would have saved me a lot of time from removing the valve cover, timing chain cover and lastly oil pan.
At the dealer they have special tester for that. It screws into the spark plug hole, has a dial indicator on top and an air fitting, it actually has little holes in it that push air in or suck vacuum out of the cylinder so the test is done at TDC and it pushes and sucks the piston and the dial indicator measures the play. It would be a lot easier to explain with a picture but the fitting has the air holes and the extension rod from the dial indicator runs through the center of it.
Does anyone have a link to this tool? Trying to do the same test on a 4 cylinder where the plugs don't go straight up and down.. they're on an angle on the front of the head. It's dang near impossible to push straight down on the top of the piston.
Hey thanks Will! Yeah i was thinking that too. it didn't go away when disabling each cylinder, but that's because three of them were bad 🤣. Glad to have you here buddy!
Hi !! from Puerto Rico had the same problem with my 2013 Veloster turbo stock with no alteration with only 63,000 miles only. Waranty deneid the repair. When I open for my surprise it had bent a rod.
Great diagnosis the idea is not to use the experience tools it’s like you did a very cheap tool you find the problem. Good job keep going my friend.Thanks
Follow up comment. This video got me thinking. I cannot remember seeing that procedure before. How else does someone check lower end bearing clearances without dropping the pan? This was simple and effective. Well done.
Piston height across all tdc's, maybe with a dial indicator. One could technically look at an in cylinder waveform and see that everything is perfect except for peak compression. Don't know any other way other than oil pressure being affected, and the traditional noise associated with this problem. 😆
One trick that is extremely efficient and effective for con rod issue is killing spark on that cylinder. The noise will get SIGNIFICANTLY quieter on the affected cylinder when spark (or fuel) is killed. This not only confirms con rod issues but also isolates the cylinder with the issue. Just another method to know.
Yes i mentioned that in this video, only problem was that since multiple cylinders had this issue, deactivating cylinders one at a time still left me with the noise 👍 thanks bud!
Nice Call brother. Sounds like someone is cross threading a axle nut to 1000 foot pounds. Lol. We get too technical with diagnosing crazy electrical issues that engine mechanical issues get forgotten. Good job Mario.
WOW that's very cool . As for the aftermarket filters causing knocks - yes Ford had the same issue and buddy would see the oil filters and deny warranty. Seems in Fords case some were knocking because media from the filters were plugging the oil feed.
I remember that Decourcey seminar. He was a very talented tech. I believe that car had a slightly bent rod from being hydrolocked and the piston was slightly below the deck compared to the others. That’s the crazy things you run across as a diag guy and is the reason you have to think outside the box occasionally. Thankfully we have things like the WPS500X to help nail it down.
Yes, the great Dave DeCourcey. It was like loosing a library of knowledge. We are so lucky to have some of his seminars recorded. Sometimes using old school techniques is a win. 🤣 Hearing that air hammer reminded me of a SD classroom video he did. To funny. But hey, Britney still came in strong.! 💪😆 Cheers Brotha
I’m glad I found this video!!! I’m actually going round and round with my local Hyundai dealship.. homer skeleton olive branch.. so my engine has the same sound spot on. They are telling me it’s the transmission!!! What do I do???
Nice job, I say life is full a little tip's and tricks, and this one was a good one. I can't imagine why anyone would have a serous problem with this method. The only thing I could think of is creating superficial scratches on the plug threads and the top of the piston. Out side of that, what possible real damage could be caused? Certainly the piston, pin , ect is far stronger then the force required to push the piston down with your hand right? Maybe carbon ?
Nice editing Mario. The picture in picture was cool. That was a great tip using the extension bar. The car doesn't seem to have that many miles on either. Too bad for the owner. The ending was classic for a shop.
Thanks Wyatt, i figured i should throw some editing in there lol. Well they owner traded it in to the Hyundai dealer, so sucks for them 😆 i could NOT delete the ending :) thanks for watching Wyatt!
I'll have to give this a shot. I have a 2013 Base Automatic. I changed the oil on it 2yrs ago and went with a Wix filter. I noticed it started making that knocking noise at idle and its very noticeable. However, sometimes it doesnt knock. Next oil change I put an OEM filter on it, same thing. I've installed a Catch Can inline woth the PCV valve. I've taken it to Hyundai and they charged me $120 to "diagnose" the noise as normal engine operation, which is BS. I even pointed it out to the service manager out in the parking lot before I gave them my keys. I've looked into recalls on my car to see if I could get it fixed, nothing comes up. I even mentioned to the dealer that I heard there were TSBs out there and people were getting whole new engines put in for this issue. They had no idea what I was talking about. I know my way around vehicles but something about working on these cars scares me a little haha! Glad I saw this vid, I'll give it a shot.
But there was a recall on the 2013 1.6 base model made in south Korea that they announced mid 2019. And only for that model/year causing premature ignition.. I gotta take mine in soon.
Makes perfect sense and I will definitely test it out on the next tune up. I want to get a few known goods first. This is what I love about you tube. Lol
Way cool - and could be my issue also. My 2015 N/A Veloster has 186k miles and am hearing a similar noise when engine breaking or slight pedal to maintain speed.
I have an issue but it’s where I switch to higher gears (4-6) accelerating it starts “knocking”... idle ticks sounds louder than usual as well... no engine light but whenever i do get up the gears to where it’s “knocking” it starts hyper flashing on and off
Great tip Mario. What I usually like do in this case I would use scan tool and deactivate injectors at 2000 RPM and listen for noise to go away. Cheers bro👍
Which is a great idea, i did disconnect coils one at a time. But it didn't work since 3 out of 4 were bad. I think that's what makes this video just a wee bit different from your usual knock diag. Thanks for watching buddy
Cool trick man. I use the extension to find tdc but have never pushed down to check for play o bottom end. Cool trick that definitely can save some time. Do you think this would show up with the wps in cylinder Mario?
Super Mario Diagnostics yeah that’s all I was thinking the same. Didn’t know if at tdc peak it would show any different from good cylinder besides just being a lower peak.
Sorry Mario I hit the wrong button last comment. 🤨. But that was awesome with the find. It's hard to find older techs that want to share their tips and tricks or the trade. Great guy for that and who knows maybe he could start showing us tips and tricks as well on his or ur channel. 😁. Take care brother
Man i wish i watched this 6 hours ago before i took cams out of an old mazda 2.0l was slightly low compression on cyl 4 and had a knock which sounded like top end. Took cams and buckets out and saw nothing unusual. 2 hours down the drain. Dropped the oil and it was all glitter. Will do the piston check with extension tomorrow.
Man I burst into laughter when I saw the trick. Not because I found it ridiculous, but because it was so blatantly obvious and brilliant and yet, I have never though of that. It's just so awesome. Now here's a question. In Brandon Steckler's four part transducer class, he mentions that a damaged rod can "easily" be found with a pressure waveform... Do you think the situation you just described could be diagnosable with a pressure test?
Yes, an in cylinder pressure test will show this as a slight deep in peak compression, with all else matching up perfectly(valve timing) and no leaning towers, along with the vacuum level being even with the expansion void(ruling out a leak) Dave decourcey shows a case study on this as well
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics That's what I suspected. Since the crank/rod start ascending and descending before the piston du to the slack between them, there would be less compression, but also the less draw. I'm getting the hang of this. Can't wait to get my Honeywell absolute transducer in the mail so I can finish my DIY unit and start experimenting. The Decorcey video you mention, is it misfire strategies for today's vehicles by any chance? Man that guy speaks fast haha. I felt I was being fed with a shovel and funnel lol. Thanks again Mario!
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics Yeah Frank is an other tremendously skilled individual. Much easier to follow too. Way easier to digest when you get the tine to chew hahaha.
Nice mario i know this is a 2 year old video, but it just so happen that it was on the first feed on my screen hahha, i will definitely try that test, but i work at hyundai mostly its always the bottom end, when i hear that kind of noise i will always call the shortblock because im just depending on my stethoscope. But atleast you showed a different kind of testing to rule out the bottom end. Thanks again
Bonito vídeo Mario gracias . Me puede dar los nombres de las personas que le a ayudado viendo vídeos Dave decorsy I Michael ? Muchísimas gracias. Dios que le continúe bendiciéndoles para que nos sigan enseñando
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics I diagnosed 2 Hyundai ix35's with a spun big end bearings just this week and an Accent last week with massive piston slap noise when hot last week! Would never own a Hyundai! I worked at a dealer when they were first released in Australia in the 90's, the Hyundai Excel X-1, every second car came in with broken rocker shafts, the Excel X-3, 5 or 6 years later was recalled due to the torque box on the chassis rail breaking away from the chassis and the front subframe would end up breaking away from the car, I rebuilt too many Sonata transmissions to count through the mid 2000s due to premature failure. Junk is junk.
Back in the day we did that on Babbitt bearing engines If we had play we cut some leather ,stick it in crank worked the crank back and fourth till it would turn and off she went for another year or so Team work great thing No team work =no money for all involed Hyuandia always hv oil pressure issues remember the santa fe Love the ending 👌
That is definitely a tough one. Do you think an oil analysis might have shown excessive amounts of metal contamination? Your videos are very educational and I enjoy them all!
So would you be able to see a lower oil pressure. I'm sure if the light would have come on you would have said something. I know the video is old but what do you think about the oil pressure maybe helping to confirm as well. Great video though i am learning a ton from your channel.
I knew it was Rapping Rodney when i herd it! Cool test! never seen that before. I bet he Was the same tech that told u to try alternate fuel on that car u had with diesel in it.
I sadly have this issue and trying to figure out the best course of action. Love the car but I may either replace or rebuild the motor. I was considering just replacing the conrod bearings but meh.
I’m catching up on your vids, so I’m a little late commenting. It’s hard to tell from the video but it doesn’t sound like bearing noise. Although it does sound like a top end noise, not so much like a valve lash noise either. After your buddy old schooled you, I have to agree with Will Robinson, that it’s most likely a wrist pin noise. You hear it at the tops of the cylinders. Kind of a piston slap sound. Anyway, good job on the diag. Too bad the fix was declined. Those are the ones you take apart to learn from. You file away the sound in your memory so you know it next time. 👍
A lot of the 4 cylinder Hyundais I notice seem to have a weird distinct sound. I am not sure if any of their V6s make the same or similar sound. I just know for sure that a lot of their 4 cylinder models do and it seems more common with older ones. Maybe the newer ones do it too and it is just not so darned obvious? I don't know! The vehicles I am thinking of are not anything turbocharged or any sort of noisy sports car but rather they look like something I would expect to see my 97 year old grandmother in and sitting on a phone book.
Very cool way to check for play... such an obvious way to check for freeplay, but there's NO WAY that I would have thought of that myself. Thankfully we all learn from people who are willing to share... you learned it from someone and I now learned it from you! Awesome!
Well said! 😃 just passing it along 😉 thanks Thomas!
And here we stand on the shoulders of giants....
How did you fix the problem homie?!?!?!?
Ma alla fine quale era il problema?
Thats an awesome test. I've been slid by one of these dfi Hyundais. I had the same noise from the chain and found guide particulates in vvt solenoids. I did chains and guides. And low and behold it was bearing failure on cylinder 2. No codes no misfires.
Thank you for sharing this very useful trick tip. This would have saved me a bunch of time from figuring out a similar issue I had with my buddies 2013 GMC Terrain 2.4L. I ended up removing valve cover to inspect top end first, no issues found. Removed timing cover next only to find no issues with timing components. I Removed oil pan last and found a ton of metal debris in the bottom of the pan which looked to be bearing material. After inspecting all Connecting rods I Found Cylinder #4 had excessive play at the wrist pin. I was able to stick my camera inside to physically see the issue as I moved the connecting rod front to back.
So all that knocking was coming from the bottom oil pan because i have the same knocking problem and i dont know what it is exactly other than knocking sensor 😂
Man, I am glad I found this video. I own a 2016 Hyundai Sononta 2.4 with 86,000 miles that had a P1324. I cleared the code and reset the limp mode about two weeks ago without issue, but I feel something is wrong. We know now that these engines have a bad history with known issues. I see that Hyundai has a TSB (tool and test) that they can test for bearing slop but I have been trying to figure out a way to check it myself first, and this is it. I can hear a knock like in this video only at a higher rpm. Now I have a direction before I talk to Hyundai about it. Million Thanks
Nice. Certainly didn't sound like a big end but you couldn't have ruled out a wrist pin. Always satisfying when you nail the issue, you shouldn't be kicking yourself on this. Great job.
Oh man old school wins 😁... I’ll definitely remember that test, great job bud 👍
Always great to have ya Igor! 👍cheers!
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics This is a great preliminary test for the bottom end. You can detect excessive piston-to-wall slop, wrist pin looseness and even some rod bearings that are getting loose. You can't argue with movement and noise on a solid steel ratchet extension like that !! Great tip !
Mario, I admire your honesty and also all the tips you give to us DIYers. I find there is usually no set approach to finding odd engine noises. You showed us something that can be very useful to us in the future. Thanks much for the heads up. 👍👍👍
We stock the OEM filter for those, and have several come in the with a noise that the filter change did "fix" it, but many have not luckily for most of those cars were still under powertrain warranty and got engines replaced at the dealer
Thanks for watching Mike 👍
WOW I totally forgot this tip for checking connecting rod bearings. I have never used it but I have heard of tech's doing it. thanks a ton for the reminder will definitely add it back to my list of tests. Ohh I almost forgot that test also works well on wrist pins to check for play there at well. That maybe why the sound is coming more from the top end and why is sounds different from a end rob bearing too.
Won't see that on an A.S.E. test! Great video.
Thank you for sharing this clever trick. I just got done taking the oil pan off to check for a sloppy rod bearing, only to find out that I can't even see the crankshaft. Now I'm ready to remove the spark plugs.!😊
Just came across this video. UA-cam "pushed" it out to me. I've worked on my own cars off and on since high school, so I definitely like to learn and UA-cam is a great resource now-a-days. Good stuff! 👍🏼
alot of us owners have grouped together on a few FB pages for the 1.6t (Gamma engine) and have found that while everyone recommends 5k intervals, 3-3.5k is best....I have sent oil out for analysis and both times the oil has been good and in spec, but the flashpoint was noticiably lower....also while 5w30 is recommended, some owners in hotter climate or who push the car have started using 5W40.....another car , the 1.5t Honda civic, is also having fuel dilution issues arising from the turdo direct injection, blowby and short trips in colder climates. Honda has addressed the issue with a ecu update and upping the weight of oil on the affected cars to 5w40.....translation: treat these types of engines old school - use great oil/oem filter and warm it up before heading out......also check your local dealer if you don't do your own oil changes....you'd be surprised how many use the wrong weight, semi-synth, or conventional then blame the owner/manufacturer after 70k miles.....and keep your receipts...Good Work Mario!
EXACTLY!!! 3k to no more than 3500 with PUP/ redline / motul only
David Santiago thanks bud!
@@Too-Gq-For-You Go watch Scotty Kilmer, he will tell you that, that is old school thinking. Now oils are made of better blend that you can go past 5k and over 10k for synthetic oil.
Uh.... No.
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics the video where he addresses oil changes (O.o) ua-cam.com/video/xfy9lJTZ-_o/v-deo.html
I'm lucky to have one of those old school men as my dad. He showed me this same trick. He taught me, if you know how things work, sometimes the most simplest things can help you find the issue.
awesome video. i learn alot watching your channel. am glad u share your tips nd tricks. i wish my coworkers were more humble like your coworker. so i wouldnt struggle as much. thanks man
Glad to help bud, thanks for watching!
Mario, that was a simple and brilliant check! Ive never thought about checking them this way.
Thanks for watching sir!
Legit video man. I don't usually comment on YT but you explained everything so well. You're a talented dude. Keep on it.
Nice find man! Got fooled the same way on an 09 Honda civic, swore it must have been top end but had one worn out con rod bearing. Mine had glitter in the oil to seal the deal. Lesson learned!
Ouch, live and learn! Thanks for watching!
Solid diag, no harm done. You did what you had to do to find the problem 👍
awesome job! We had an equinox in the shop with a strange knocking noise. We finally took it apart & found the piston wrist pin bushing completely gone on one cylinder & the other 3 cracking. Would have been nice to confirm with this simple test before taking it all apart. Spec for clearance is only .0002" this one had about 1/8" of play. Thanks for the videos & sharing your experiences!
I just ran into a similar issue with a 2013 GMC Terrain 2.4L eco tec. After removing oil pan I had found cylinder #4 wrist pin had failed causing a huge amount of play and the knock the customer was hearing. I found this video after my Diagnosis and went ahead and tried this trick and it worked. Would have saved me a lot of time from removing the valve cover, timing chain cover and lastly oil pan.
Came here because I have some knock on my Veloster. I don't know if its the same problem (I hope not!) but learned a lot. I wish you were my mechanic.
Just curious, how many miles, and how often oil was changed, my new car has a 1.6 l turbo...and were you able to get it repaired?
At the dealer they have special tester for that. It screws into the spark plug hole, has a dial indicator on top and an air fitting, it actually has little holes in it that push air in or suck vacuum out of the cylinder so the test is done at TDC and it pushes and sucks the piston and the dial indicator measures the play. It would be a lot easier to explain with a picture but the fitting has the air holes and the extension rod from the dial indicator runs through the center of it.
Yes I've seen it. Anything over .050" fails lol. That's a lot of play in my opinion.
Does anyone have a link to this tool? Trying to do the same test on a 4 cylinder where the plugs don't go straight up and down.. they're on an angle on the front of the head. It's dang near impossible to push straight down on the top of the piston.
Any time you find the problem, it is a good diagnosis. Always interesting and informative. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks Andrew!
Having worked on many Mazda 2.3's, I recognized that sound right away. lol I loved that trick with the extension. Thanks!
Next time I'll call you🤣 haha thank buddy, good to have ya
Great tip and trick 👍💪 most likely a rod bearing or maybe wrist pin.
Great job as always
Hey thanks Will! Yeah i was thinking that too. it didn't go away when disabling each cylinder, but that's because three of them were bad 🤣. Glad to have you here buddy!
I like that trick. Will definitely keep that one in the back of my mind. 👌
Hi !! from Puerto Rico had the same problem with my 2013 Veloster turbo stock with no alteration with only 63,000 miles only. Waranty deneid the repair. When I open for my surprise it had bent a rod.
Yeeeeeees! Thanks a lot! You saved me much time for searching. You're great man!
That is awesome. Love that test dude. It dont matter how we learn something so long as we do.
Absolutely right. If someone is giving me advice, especially one as cool as this, I'm all ears 😀 thanks for watching!
Great diagnosis the idea is not to use the experience tools it’s like you did a very cheap tool you find the problem. Good job keep going my friend.Thanks
Thank you sir!
Follow up comment. This video got me thinking. I cannot remember seeing that procedure before. How else does someone check lower end bearing clearances without dropping the pan? This was simple and effective. Well done.
Piston height across all tdc's, maybe with a dial indicator. One could technically look at an in cylinder waveform and see that everything is perfect except for peak compression. Don't know any other way other than oil pressure being affected, and the traditional noise associated with this problem. 😆
One trick that is extremely efficient and effective for con rod issue is killing spark on that cylinder. The noise will get SIGNIFICANTLY quieter on the affected cylinder when spark (or fuel) is killed. This not only confirms con rod issues but also isolates the cylinder with the issue. Just another method to know.
Yes i mentioned that in this video, only problem was that since multiple cylinders had this issue, deactivating cylinders one at a time still left me with the noise 👍 thanks bud!
Nice Call brother. Sounds like someone is cross threading a axle nut to 1000 foot pounds. Lol. We get too technical with diagnosing crazy electrical issues that engine mechanical issues get forgotten. Good job Mario.
You're absolutely right, one has to be exposed to all kinds of issues, or else things get lost along the way. Thanks Nelson for watching 👍
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics thanks to your videos we get to stay fresh for the next job .
No, thank you for watching!
WOW that's very cool . As for the aftermarket filters causing knocks - yes Ford had the same issue and buddy would see the oil filters and deny warranty. Seems in Fords case some were knocking because media from the filters were plugging the oil feed.
Ouch, yeah it's nothing to do with dogging it all day🤣 thanks for watching Steve!
That's a nice trick. It's nice to have team work makes things a lot easier for everybody. Where I work same thing team work. Nice Diagnostic
I remember that Decourcey seminar. He was a very talented tech. I believe that car had a slightly bent rod from being hydrolocked and the piston was slightly below the deck compared to the others. That’s the crazy things you run across as a diag guy and is the reason you have to think outside the box occasionally. Thankfully we have things like the WPS500X to help nail it down.
Thanks Mario for the video , definitely informative, educational, I sure as heck would not have thought of that test but thank you for sharing .
Yes, the great Dave DeCourcey. It was like loosing a library of knowledge. We are so lucky to have some of his seminars recorded. Sometimes using old school techniques is a win.
🤣 Hearing that air hammer reminded me of a SD classroom video he did. To funny.
But hey, Britney still came in strong.! 💪😆 Cheers Brotha
Yeah his seminars are great! I could hardly get a word in 😆 Britney is still rolling with the punches lol. Cheers bro
Thank you Mario. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.
Thanks Billy, have a great weekend buddy
I’m glad I found this video!!! I’m actually going round and round with my local Hyundai dealship.. homer skeleton olive branch.. so my engine has the same sound spot on. They are telling me it’s the transmission!!! What do I do???
Nice job, I say life is full a little tip's and tricks, and this one was a good one. I can't imagine why anyone would have a serous problem with this method. The only thing I could think of is creating superficial scratches on the plug threads and the top of the piston. Out side of that, what possible real damage could be caused? Certainly the piston, pin , ect is far stronger then the force required to push the piston down with your hand right? Maybe carbon ?
True, combustion gases are hundreds of psi, i guess i could go with a plastic rod instead. Thanks for watching sir!
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics Do you see any problem with using a wooden dowel?
You sir are a diagnostic beast. Great video dude.
Hey man THANK YOU for sharing this, people like you are rare appreciate you 💯💯💯💯💯💯
Thanks for the video. Makes a whole lot of sense. Great job 👍🏼
This is a great tip. I’m going to test my 2.7L V6 that has the tick/knock noise. Thanks
Nice editing Mario. The picture in picture was cool. That was a great tip using the extension bar. The car doesn't seem to have that many miles on either. Too bad for the owner. The ending was classic for a shop.
Thanks Wyatt, i figured i should throw some editing in there lol. Well they owner traded it in to the Hyundai dealer, so sucks for them 😆 i could NOT delete the ending :) thanks for watching Wyatt!
Gracias cacheton .Bien trabajo..
Very informative, thanks for sharing your knowledge, I learned something today.
Really cool way of checking. Will remember it for sure! Thanks!
I'll have to give this a shot. I have a 2013 Base Automatic. I changed the oil on it 2yrs ago and went with a Wix filter. I noticed it started making that knocking noise at idle and its very noticeable. However, sometimes it doesnt knock. Next oil change I put an OEM filter on it, same thing. I've installed a Catch Can inline woth the PCV valve. I've taken it to Hyundai and they charged me $120 to "diagnose" the noise as normal engine operation, which is BS. I even pointed it out to the service manager out in the parking lot before I gave them my keys.
I've looked into recalls on my car to see if I could get it fixed, nothing comes up. I even mentioned to the dealer that I heard there were TSBs out there and people were getting whole new engines put in for this issue. They had no idea what I was talking about. I know my way around vehicles but something about working on these cars scares me a little haha!
Glad I saw this vid, I'll give it a shot.
But there was a recall on the 2013 1.6 base model made in south Korea that they announced mid 2019. And only for that model/year causing premature ignition.. I gotta take mine in soon.
Also, hyundai dealers offer the new software update that supposedly prevents the premature ignition
@@brendanlee8419 I believe I had that update and it worked very well.
Makes perfect sense and I will definitely test it out on the next tune up. I want to get a few known goods first. This is what I love about you tube. Lol
Way cool - and could be my issue also. My 2015 N/A Veloster has 186k miles and am hearing a similar noise when engine breaking or slight pedal to maintain speed.
How did you fix it?
Great video. Have learned a few things from your videos. Keep up the good work.
Thanks bud! Great to have you on board 👍
Youre gifted brother..thanks for sharing.
This is a trick my co-worker taught me, but i do appreciate the remark. Thanks for watching buddy!
Great job man, love that old school stuff!
Yes, I heard that at 10:55 It sounds like a phone ringing. So that's what it means to get a ring job?
Thank you for the teaching. Perfect 👌
Great work and good experience
Well done, That was quite a sound, Wonder what caused it...I always thought gamma engines were reliable engines...maybe it is turbo or GDI related.
Thank you buddy, I learned something new. Happy new year.
Thanks for watching! Happy New Year 👍
Wondering why the noise was concentrated at the vvt/chain area and not throughout the entire engine as it was smacking the connecting rods.
That's why it was so interesting to me as well
great creative diagnostic...so how did you solve it?
ANOTHER AWESOME VIDEO MARIO THANKS MUCH HOPE YOU'RE TECH BUDDY ISN'T FEELING UNAPPRECIATED FROM THE SOUNDS OF THE HAMMER AND THANKS AGAIN .
Haha that's the other tech using the air hammer 😆 thanks bud!
great video keep them coming!!!!
Damn. Thax for the vid and tips unfortunately I have this problem in my 2012 veloster. Loose wrist pins. 🤬
Old school techs always got some magic method of diagnosing the weirdest issues. Props though.
I love that though! It really wakes me up as to why i love doing this. Awesome to see those tips in action! Thanks for watching 👍
I have an issue but it’s where I switch to higher gears (4-6) accelerating it starts “knocking”... idle ticks sounds louder than usual as well... no engine light but whenever i do get up the gears to where it’s “knocking” it starts hyper flashing on and off
is the problem the loud gurgling/low end noise ? Or the very fast clicking noise at 6:30 ?
Very slick trick. Thanks for sharing man
Great tip Mario. What I usually like do in this case I would use scan tool and deactivate injectors at 2000 RPM and listen for noise to go away. Cheers bro👍
Which is a great idea, i did disconnect coils one at a time. But it didn't work since 3 out of 4 were bad. I think that's what makes this video just a wee bit different from your usual knock diag. Thanks for watching buddy
Awesome...I know the video you are referring to. Do you think you could see that with an incylinder waveform?
Cherrr to your co worker that’s the way should be helping each other out .
Bendiciones marito
Nice video, my veloster do that sound , what its the solución?
SO AFTER ALL THE GOOD INFORMATION AND DEMONSTRATION..IS THERE A RECALL FOR THIS PROBLEM ?
super video. I always waiting for your new videos.thanks
Cool trick man. I use the extension to find tdc but have never pushed down to check for play o bottom end. Cool trick that definitely can save some time. Do you think this would show up with the wps in cylinder Mario?
I think it should, lower peak compression. But not much more than that
Super Mario Diagnostics yeah that’s all I was thinking the same. Didn’t know if at tdc peak it would show any different from good cylinder besides just being a lower peak.
Yep, with Dave decourcey, it only showed a slightly lower peak. I didn't go that far with this one honestly
Super Mario Diagnostics no worries man. Time is money and you obviously figured it out. Need to get a wps!
Very cool trick. Beats pulling oil pan to check any day.
Sorry Mario I hit the wrong button last comment. 🤨. But that was awesome with the find. It's hard to find older techs that want to share their tips and tricks or the trade. Great guy for that and who knows maybe he could start showing us tips and tricks as well on his or ur channel. 😁. Take care brother
Haha that would be awesome. Thanks for watching buddy
Good job man sometimes old school diagnostics works just fine. Haha👍🏻
That's right! I call it the "fundamentals" 😂
Man i wish i watched this 6 hours ago before i took cams out of an old mazda 2.0l was slightly low compression on cyl 4 and had a knock which sounded like top end. Took cams and buckets out and saw nothing unusual. 2 hours down the drain. Dropped the oil and it was all glitter. Will do the piston check with extension tomorrow.
Man I burst into laughter when I saw the trick. Not because I found it ridiculous, but because it was so blatantly obvious and brilliant and yet, I have never though of that. It's just so awesome.
Now here's a question. In Brandon Steckler's four part transducer class, he mentions that a damaged rod can "easily" be found with a pressure waveform... Do you think the situation you just described could be diagnosable with a pressure test?
Yes, an in cylinder pressure test will show this as a slight deep in peak compression, with all else matching up perfectly(valve timing) and no leaning towers, along with the vacuum level being even with the expansion void(ruling out a leak)
Dave decourcey shows a case study on this as well
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics That's what I suspected. Since the crank/rod start ascending and descending before the piston du to the slack between them, there would be less compression, but also the less draw.
I'm getting the hang of this.
Can't wait to get my Honeywell absolute transducer in the mail so I can finish my DIY unit and start experimenting.
The Decorcey video you mention, is it misfire strategies for today's vehicles by any chance? Man that guy speaks fast haha. I felt I was being fed with a shovel and funnel lol.
Thanks again Mario!
Haha yes, that's the one. I had to watch that video several times before i got started lol also be sure to check out Frank Massey compression videos!
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics Yeah Frank is an other tremendously skilled individual. Much easier to follow too. Way easier to digest when you get the tine to chew hahaha.
@@alexlongpre4527Any videos of your diy transducer?
Nice mario i know this is a 2 year old video, but it just so happen that it was on the first feed on my screen hahha, i will definitely try that test, but i work at hyundai mostly its always the bottom end, when i hear that kind of noise i will always call the shortblock because im just depending on my stethoscope. But atleast you showed a different kind of testing to rule out the bottom end. Thanks again
Great video brother. Yes, that's an old trick that is proven. I learned that years back from an old engine builder. Did they want to fix it?
Not at all, they traded it in to the Hyundai dealer. I don't think they know what they're in for 😆
i can dig it. thanks for sharing!!!
Bonito vídeo Mario gracias .
Me puede dar los nombres de las personas que le a ayudado viendo vídeos Dave decorsy I Michael ?
Muchísimas gracias.
Dios que le continúe bendiciéndoles para que nos sigan enseñando
Amazing way to check for piston rods play! I thought it was going to be a intake cam phaser oil pressure CVVT valve related problem...
Thanks!
Very good tip haven't seen that but it totally makes sense I know I'll make use of that.
Glad to share buddy, thanks for watching!
Veterans in the trade know a lot of tricks. Cool video
Wow, Learned something new, Great video
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed 👍
How do you fix it? You change the pistons or the crankshaft?
Hyundai's, notorious for wrecking rod bearings if wrong spec oil used or servicing is not kept up.
Absolutely! Case in point! Thanks Jake 👍
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics I diagnosed 2 Hyundai ix35's with a spun big end bearings just this week and an Accent last week with massive piston slap noise when hot last week! Would never own a Hyundai! I worked at a dealer when they were first released in Australia in the 90's, the Hyundai Excel X-1, every second car came in with broken rocker shafts, the Excel X-3, 5 or 6 years later was recalled due to the torque box on the chassis rail breaking away from the chassis and the front subframe would end up breaking away from the car, I rebuilt too many Sonata transmissions to count through the mid 2000s due to premature failure. Junk is junk.
Back in the day we did that on Babbitt bearing engines
If we had play we cut some leather ,stick it in crank worked the crank back and fourth till it would turn and off she went for another year or so
Team work great thing
No team work =no money for all involed
Hyuandia always hv oil pressure issues remember the santa fe
Love the ending 👌
Yo Mario. Just ran into this same issue yesterday with the same vehicle. Bearing knock, oil slush. Oil light on
That is definitely a tough one. Do you think an oil analysis might have shown excessive amounts of metal contamination? Your videos are very educational and I enjoy them all!
Absolutely, i think it would. Thanks!!
Drop the lower oil pan and you'll see bearing material, also the vct solenoid winds up clogged with metal flake
So would you be able to see a lower oil pressure. I'm sure if the light would have come on you would have said something. I know the video is old but what do you think about the oil pressure maybe helping to confirm as well. Great video though i am learning a ton from your channel.
Sure but I'm also following the symptom first. Since oil pressure can be affected by a variety of things
I knew it was Rapping Rodney when i herd it! Cool test! never seen that before. I bet he Was the same tech that told u to try alternate fuel on that car u had with diesel in it.
😂Nope he was off that day
@@SuperMarioDiagnostics a talented group, ur shop has.
I sadly have this issue and trying to figure out the best course of action. Love the car but I may either replace or rebuild the motor. I was considering just replacing the conrod bearings but meh.
Thanks for sharing brother.
I’m catching up on your vids, so I’m a little late commenting.
It’s hard to tell from the video but it doesn’t sound like bearing noise. Although it does sound like a top end noise, not so much like a valve lash noise either. After your buddy old schooled you, I have to agree with Will Robinson, that it’s most likely a wrist pin noise. You hear it at the tops of the cylinders. Kind of a piston slap sound.
Anyway, good job on the diag. Too bad the fix was declined. Those are the ones you take apart to learn from. You file away the sound in your memory so you know it next time. 👍
Yes, sure fella like wrist pin issue. Client traded it in 😆 but yes that goes straight into the mental archives! Thanks for watching bud 👍
A lot of the 4 cylinder Hyundais I notice seem to have a weird distinct sound. I am not sure if any of their V6s make the same or similar sound. I just know for sure that a lot of their 4 cylinder models do and it seems more common with older ones. Maybe the newer ones do it too and it is just not so darned obvious? I don't know! The vehicles I am thinking of are not anything turbocharged or any sort of noisy sports car but rather they look like something I would expect to see my 97 year old grandmother in and sitting on a phone book.