P1326 In Hyundai/Kia vehicles, Cause of Theta 2 engine Failures, Timeline of Hyundai engine recalls
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- Опубліковано 9 жов 2021
- We answer a lot of the questions asked in one of my previous videos in this video. We go over the Knock sensor detection system, and why it was implemented.
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It’s amazing that Hyundai didn’t address the issues during their durability testing.
Great video, Stefan. I was an ASE tech back in the eighties. My Optima turbo got the P1326 and knock of death last month. It used 6 qts of oil between changes. It's now at a KIA dealer awaiting a free engine. Best case scenario!
Stefaan You and your videos are very professional . Excellent Job
Very informative video. My 2011 Sonata 2.4L seized up nearly two years ago. That happened a couple of weeks after an oil change. I had it towed to the dealer and the first thing they did was check the oil. The oil level was good so they had no choice but to replace the motor under that recall. My car still looks great and runs perfectly so I plan to keep it for many years to come.
Thanks for this video. My daughter bought a used 2013 Sonata two years ago and still owes $2k on it. You can imagine her feeling of devastation learning the engine had seized. Your video greatly helped me understand what had happened and will help me approach the dealer as an educated customer as I apply for warranty coverage.
They deny warranty often there are lots of video on UA-cam about that. You should have paid little more and gotten Toyota, Honda or Mazda. Many people learn only hard ways.
😂
Great video! Very informative.
I realy enjoy this video well explaned from a Hyundai/Kia mechanic, Thanks S&E.
Very informative video. Thank you. My engine in my 2017 Santa Fe Sport 2.0T started knocking on a trip up to visit my family in Northern Ontario last week. Of coarse it occurred a few kilometers past my extended warranty at 160, 000 which I went over on that trip!. And of coarse it occurred in very cold freezing negative temps about 100km from the nearest city in the middle of no where. Along with waiting for a tow truck to come from that nearby city 100km away costing hundreds in the tow bill and waiting in the cold because I didn't want to start the car due to the knocking, it was quite the experience. Funny because I had the knocking sensor update in 2019 and my car did not go into limp mode nor did any error lights come on the dash. The one advisor from my local dealership on the phone even told me to keep driving because it didn't go into limp mode. The dealership that it was towed to stated they have to order a new engine from Korea that is back order and provided me with a loaner from Enterprise. I am just thankful this happened to me and not to my wife. Do you know if the replacement engine could have the exact same issue occur in the future or do the replacement engines have the knocking/rod bearing issue resolved?
As a California state licences Smog Test and Repair mechanic with 20 years experience I fount this video looking for details about my 2012 Hyundai Elantra Transmission filter replacement. I find it very interesting to learn how Hyundai went about dealing with this issue. Obviously it doesn't affect my car, but I found it very interesting. I also looked at some of your other videos. Good stuff... Thanks and I'm gonna like your videos.
Great video! Thanks for the background.
Oh, and a big thanks for your information and honesty!!!
“Thermal events”. Classic!
Very well explained and i could possibly believe a batch of cranks that werent 'deburred' properly due to a tooling/drilling failure but for years it's hard to believe. I have been watching a few complaint vids lately and from what they say Hyundai COULD CARE LESS that their engines failed so they seemed to have lost many customers due to terrible customer service but like anything it's $$$$ based and in the end the customer gets screwed. I have owned a 2003 Accent, a 2008 and 2009 Accent, a 2017 Elantra 6 speed and 2019 6 speed and now a 2021 Kia Forte as the manual is no longer available in the Elantra all without even 1 issue. One customer said he could see the metal particles on the dipstick and they jerked him for a year before finally telling him no. If it was a total 'deburring' issue that sounds like someone either wasnt inspecting the cranks properly or that wasnt a protocol after machining.
Sure seems it would fail on breaking then or very soon. Many of these are high mileage. Some 80,000 and I have even heard they replaced one with 224,000.
Best information I heard about this
My 2014 Tuson. I'm a 30 year tech and when the dealers say it's not covered I'll be all over them because the knock sensor reprogrammed and at 140K cylinder #1 started knocking. Its at the dealer now so we'll see what they say. It is in excellent condition here in florida and has always had Mobil 1 so they should replace the engine at this point. It's been back 3x for an engine noise and each time they say they can't hear anything. It's knocking now so they can hear it...3-4,000 rpm's. Great info thanks!
We’ve got a 2017 Santa Fe 2.4 sitting towed into the dealer with the p1326 code. It went into limp mode with the flashing CEL on the way home. We got it certified used and had most of the maintenance done at the dealer. We will see what they come up with…
PS, thank you for the detailed history of this unfortunate issue!
Very informative on the troublesome history of the Theta 2. I recently picked up a '23 Kona N and I was wondering if you have some insight on an interesting issue several other N owners have reported. In almost every case, immediately following a touchless carwash, they get the p1326 code, and the car goes into limp mode. Some are resolved by clearing the code, some by doing the bearing clearance test and replacing the KS, and others end up getting a new engine. But the common link is the touchless carwash (a couple have reported it happening driving in heavy rain as well). Is it just a poorly sealed KS/wiring harness allowing water ingress? Could it actually be injesting water through the intake causing a knock triggering the p1326 code? Quite the odd situation that hyundai has failed to speak on thus far. Oh, and needless to say I will only be hand washing my car haha
@S&E's Garage, Great and so valuable explanation from a reallly involved technician as you!
But Stefan, do you think that there can be done something as a premeasure to avoid all that following headaches related the Theta 2 engines?
For example as a oil pump change with a other one with a higher presure or probably new rod bearings, the catch can probably would help for the carbone biuldups and this would be a point. With my guys in the car service we were thinking even widing the oil inlets, because most of the cars here dont has warranty /imported from USA as a salvage/ and watching how all that ruin them is realy bad.
Great article.....thank you. I now truly hope that the new smartstream engine is a vast improvement over the Theta line of engines.
Unfortunately the smartstream is largely based on the Theta series engine. Though supposedly the oiling and cooling system have been revamped
Great info , I think the debris thing is BS, they would fix that pritty quick, I believe it's a design flaw of some kind .
Very informative. I have a 2018 Sonata and I’m wondering why they did not have the engine manufacturing defect fixed by then?
Thank you for this video. I started looking at youtube videos related to this as just yesterday my 2015 Kia Sportage started knocking and shaking pretty badly along with a flashing check engine light. I had a scanner and it did have code P1326. I am praying to the car gods that Kia stands by their 10yr 100k warranty and fixes the problem. The SUV had 79,200 miles (very well maintained and documented). It had been super reliable until this happened.
Trade it in
10 year Warranty🤣😂,They can say they give you 20 ,anyway they will not honor the warranty
Did they?
@@bob-pr8ye they did. Brand new engine. Warranty took care of everything.
I really appreciate these videos, I started researching after getting the P1326 and you absolutely explained the how and why better than anyone else. Just wondering what advice you could give me. I have a '17 Sportage with 75k miles that recently had the code pop up. I wasn't at home where my scan tool was so stopped at the nearby parts store when it went into limp mode to have the code read. It was the P1326, the guy cleared the code and I drove home. From what I have read after the fact the code needs to be active when it goes to the dealership. What do I do now? I've put around 50 miles on it right around the house seeing what it'll do but so far nothing. If I had the time then to really research it I would have never let him clear the code.
I owned a 2009 Sonata and put 170,000 miles on it. I changed the oil and filter with synthetic Mobil 1 oil every 5,000 miles and never had a mechanical problem. Never changed the transmission oil, it looked fine, and I did change the coolant around 100,000 miles. Great car...
Yes the pre GDI engines were great for the most part
Thank you very much for your explanation of the "issue" Hyundai has with the Theta II engine. Indeed it is somewhat complicated. I have two Hyundai's and one is a 2013 Santa Fe (used but certified) with about 69k miles and have "experienced first hand the "limp home" mode as it entered this mode while driving in the mountains about 100 miles from home recently. The vehicle has had all the recalls done including the "band aid" ones. I'm a retired service advisor/ASE tech and know a little about vehicles and have tried to follow the issues with this engine. Hyundai has "struggled" to find a fix short of replacing all these engines and indeed the "latest" is to reprogram the last reprogram to I believe "dumb down/less sensitive" to prevent the vehicle from going into limp mode when not necessary which is exactly what what was done this time when I left it there for over a week. The "good" news was that the engine is OK according to the bearing test. In my opinion I believe some of these engines also fail due to some owners failing to keep the oil level full as it appears they are sensitive to low oil levels.....remember the recall where the oil was changed along with a new dip stick? In other words, keep the oil full and oil changed about every 5k miles. As far as the GDI issue with carbon on the back side of the intake valves, this is an issue with any GDI engine and is the reason some manufactures have gone to adding PFI injectors also. In the mean time I suggest to do a intake clean with a product like CRC cleaner every 15k miles and add an oil catch an. I do both and they work.
Hit the nail on the head. If you look at some of my other videos you’ll see that I run a catch can on my personal car, and I also believe in performing some sort of induction service at a regular interval, though I prefer BG induction cleaner.
Great vedio I just subscribed 👍..one question I have.i bought a brand new 2020 santa fe could I just vent crankcase to atmosphere with a fitting inplace of the pcv valve and vent it through a hose to under the car?........of course this vehicle would used only on race track .
@@arthurhudgens8213 I've read where people do that, triggers service engine light, you could also do a catch can.
@@lonniebeal6032 I think a catch can is an excellent idea and I'm looking into that soon..noticed your last name is Beal my best friend growing up in fairview tn was Eugene Beal
Thank you. Very relevant!!
14 kia forte that passed clearance test but frequently goes to limp home mode. My ind shop suggests moving the placement of the knock sensor. No crazy oil consumption maybe a quarter between changes. I don't hear a loud knock, closer to what used to be known as lifters ticking.
Hey Stefan.... that was a lot of information in that video!! Great job. You mostly mentioned Sonata and Sante Fe vehicles. Can you please give me some advice for my daughter's 2011 Hyundai Genesis Coupe 2.0T. It has 211k miles so far. Thanks a lot.
Hi Stefan. Thank you so much for the video! I have a 2016 Santa Fe Sport 2.0 Turbo, and Hyundai replaced a Longblock engine last week. Part of the recall benefit, so no charge to me, the consumer.
BUT, last night my ODBII reader showed yet another new issue, that being a P0456-Evaporated Emission System Leak Detected (very small leak). Could this be due to the engine replacement work done, or something over and above the recall??
Me watching this with a p1326 code in my 2022 Kona N with 12k on it. Sitting at the dealer...
They flashed it and still threw the code waiting on new sensor. OH BOY!
Great vid tho. Thank you.
They did all what you said on my Tuscon 2015 but still didn't fix the issue. They replaced after that the catalytic converter, the vehicle was fine for 2weeks and the check engine light was flashing again. Took it back again, just got it back 2 days ago and they said they reprogrammed it as they had an update out a week ago. So, I am hoping this will fix the issue as I have been dealing with it since Nov 2021, in and out of the dealership since then.
They did do everything under warranty but for someone who uses vehicle a lot, it takes a toll on the day-to-day life with the stress of waiting if they have a loaner for me right away or not
Trusting our LORD that the new 2.5L engine doesn't have the bugs that the 2.4L Theta 2 engine had! I just got my wife a 2023 Sportage (last June.) I do oil changes every 5,000k/6 months, whichever happens first---usually the 6-month interval happens first. Oh, & I only use fully synthetic oil, exclusively.
Thanks for making this video, I am going to save it and show it to my wife. We have a 2016 Kia Soul with the 2.0 and it has very low miles on it. Always had it's maintenance on time and at dealers. I know you are going into the Hyundai engine, I believe Kia is using the same engines.
It's the same exact engine.
Mine is in a Hyundai Santa Fe.
I'm at 130.000, no problems with it all.
The fuel pump had to be replaced at around 60,000
That's it
I bought a new 2017 Elantra automatic, fully loaded, Southern California car. It just turned 105.000 miles. The entire car has been excellent. 0 repairs, 0 issues. Engine runs smooth quiet, uses no oil . Oil changes every 3000 miles with Castrol GTX since 1st oil change..extremely pleased with the car.
Very informative video. what happens when you cant get a reading on the piston due to warpage of head/cylinder? ever seen the cooling system overwhelmed by a failing bearing?
vehicle never had any problems - 71K miles. Brought it in for the knock sensor recall / inspection; was given a clean bill of health on 12/21. on 1/3 (300 miles later) I called the dealership and took the next available appointment to bring it back as it started making a ticking noise and engine seemed to be generating excess heat, even though Engine temp gauge showed normal. car was parked 1/3 to 1/20 (date of appointment) I was driving the vehicle to the dealership for service, about 1/4 mile away it started knocking and power was reduced to almost nothing. limped into the service drive and it died... engine was hot, temp gauge never showed hot... now dealer cant get the BCT done since when they pressurized the cylinder oil comes out of the other cylinders. They are calling it overheated/blown head gasket, say bearings never failed; no measurement of bearings performed. What is my next move?
Great video i have a Hyundai i40 station wagon 2014 has 2*0 GDI engine the owner before me said engine failed at 130 thousand KMs i hope the engine swap he did will be ok cheers Stephen 🍀🍀🍀🍀
I think I just ran into the unnecessary engine protection mode you mentioned later in the video. My 2017 Sonata went into limp mode at 96k miles, limped it to the dealership and they said it needed a software update and passed all engine tests. Crossing my fingers that the issue doesn't rear its head again, at this point I'm going to be trading it in and getting a Toyota RAV4 as soon as I can.
Can’t go wrong with any Toyota products
Great video! I have a question, last january i got p1326 code, brought to the dealership. Did some test like bearing test and it passed. They replaced the knock sensor but still CEL is on, check the plugs and coil, one coil is bad so they replaced it. The CEL is gone but during drive test the car dies. So now waiting for a new engine....the question is...do you think the sensor is really bad thst why they replaced it coz they charging me $240 for that. Thanks!
I bought a 2015 hyundai veloster may of 2021 with dual clutch, 1.6 L engine and within 2 or 3 months it went in limp mode. Replaced knock sensor, drove fine..for about 8 months. Took it to dealership for computer upgrade revision, ran fine for around 6-8 months then noticed a serious power drop in acceleration and a slight rattling ping sound when waiting at a light and next to something solid it could reflect sound off of. I changed spark plugs last friday and always top off my oil and have it changed as recommended. Checked all fluids and she ran decent for a 2 hr drive from sacramento to muir beach in bay area (ca.) Until way home driving thru Vallejo, coming up an incline my check engine light flashed and i pulled over immediately and called AAA andtowed it back home. Limped it to O'Reillys about a half mile from my house and scanned it which brought up the p1326 knock sensor code again. Ordered part, came in, gunna replace it today before it gets too hot here(it ws 108°yesterday!!) Now after watching your video which I thank you very much for so helpful would you suggest but I inquire with the dealership if there's a software update or should I contact Hyundai about the reoccurring knock sensor or should I do the research and not have a vehicle to drive probably lose my job and hope that somebody knows what the hell's going on??? That is why I'm asking you what your opinion would be what I should do any input would be greatly appreciated. By the way I bought this car from Shift Auto sales and I'm paying up the wazoo for it. Considering trading it in don't know how that process works because it's my first car I've ever bought from a dealership but I am financing it and not sure how they would handle this but I refuse to get screwed, especially from a reputable Auto company... As Hyundai used to be!! Help please!!!
Great video!! I have a 2016 Kia Forte and IDK if I shall be worried! The dealership bill says it has an N 2.0 Theta MPI engine, made in Korea. It has 60K miles and has been very smooth, it doesn't burn any oil, and I checked the VVT solenoids for debris, and found nothing. The only "suspicious" symptom is that is makes a "slap" sound whenever it is warmed up, turned off for a few minutes and then turned on again. It's weird, because it doesn't happen if it has been sitting for many hours, even days, so it's not when the engine is cold.
I have a 2012 Kia Forte ex 2.0L 108k miles so out of the 100k mile powertrain warranty. Car still runs good but does have the infamous clacking sound. I never miss oil changes and keep up all maintenance. If the engine was gonna go would it have gone by now??
Holy shit man! Great vid! I didn’t know the EVO X had a Hyundai engine! Now I’ll only lo9k for the VII-IX w/ 4G63T! These Theta engine issues sound like BMW. I hope the stinger isn’t affected as I want one😮!
We just did VC gaskets a week ago and suddenly 2 days later they got the P1326.
No audible engine knock BUT we do here a slight rattle during revving coming from the cam follower bearing under the fuel pump.
As you know, you must remove the HPFP to do the valve cover gasket.
I have a new cam follower bearing on the way.
My question is do you know of any correlation with doing valve cover jobs causing this code or is it just a coincidence?
Hello, thanks so much for your video. Here in Europe, we had only 2.0 MPI (G4KD) version of Theta II in Hyundai ix35 and Kia Sportage. It's called 2.0 CVVT (120kw) in this model. I am currently looking at this car and I am just curious if this is the engine which is OK to take and don't have this serious problems. Thanks for any advice :)
I have a 2013 Kia Optima SX T-GDi with 36k miles. I change its oil every 3 months and I think this is what it has kept it alive on the original engine for so long.
The recall has been done but I don’t know which one since they changed the dipstick to the red one and that’s it.
Thanks.
So with this code the only can fix is the dealer?
Or can be at any shop
I got a P303 code on Tuesday through troubleshooting found #3 spark plug was fouled. Replaced all 4 spark plugs. Went to work this morning and my engine light started to flash and the radio announce that the ECM detects an engine issue. Would you like to schedule a service now. I turned around and drove back home, I was in the middle of no where on my way yo Fort Bragg. I stopped at a parts shop, borrowed the scanner and got the P1326 code. Looked it up and it said Glow Relay stuck on. Drove home to call the dealer and pulled into my drive way and smoke started to fill the cabin of the car. Turned off the engine got out saw oil pouring out of the exhaust side of the engine. Now it is knocking. I wish I would had seen your video about the knock sensor before now. I cannot wait to see what the dealership says to me next month when they can look at my 2016 Kia Optima EX. I also just received a letter about extending the warranty to 150,000 for the low pressure fuel pump. Too many issues with these cars. Might have to tell the wife to trade in her 2018 Optima EX before this happens to her too.
Thanks for the information .Do you think the replacement engine that Hyundai are providing to customer will be a better engine and will last longer? Is it’s safe to keep my vehicle with a new replacement engine?
I brought a 2015 Sonata for my daughter. Once it hit 67k miles. This code came on. I immediately had it towed to the dealership. I also filled a claim with Hyundai. Long story short. After a month and a half. I got a new engine for free. Please press them. I shortly sold it after this experience. Will not get another Hyundai again. I hope that this helps someone
Does the 2015 Hyundai Sonata 4dr Sdn 1.6Turbo fall under the Theta failure issues?
I have a 2011 sonata that blew the engine at 85k miles, around mid 2018. It gets regular maintenance, but I'm wondering if the replacement is burr free or has the same defect.
if a 2015 Kia 2.4 optima (had ksds update in 2020) & regular oil changes per manual then less than 2,000 miles after the last new oil+filter, car stopped while driving (light came on). Towed it the shop that changed the oil 5 months prior they said oil was low & very dirty, & drained & put new oil & filter to see if that helped. When engine turned over it had the knocking noise & not drivable. Does that sound like a rod issue covered by warrenty?
I had my 2015 Santa Fe engine replaced through the June 2021settlement agreement in October. Immediately after, I began get a Check Engine light and final got it diagnosed as needing to replace the catalytic converter. I’m being told by the dealer that the claim for this repair under the settlement agreement was denied; however, they agreed are to do a thorough evaluation of the CAT and resubmit the claim. To your knowledge, has it been a common occurrence for the engine failure to cause damage to the CAT? If so, do you have any knowledge if the Settlement agreement has approved covering the replacement?
If it used a lot of oil before it blew up it probably contaminated the cat, so it is a possibility.
Very interesting video,i have a question please 🙏🏻, i just buy a 2013 SANTA FE 2.4L in good price and i did it becouse it has a new Engine from recall 0 miles, my question is: Do they fix the problem? Or this new 0 miles engines are exactly the same??
Stefan awesome video but I was wondering bud the new Santa Cruz is the 2.5 turbo engine a good engine or should we stay away from it?I'm very interested in this (truck) but would not want to get rid of my crosstrek limited if they are still having problems! Ty
I don’t believe there are any major issues with the engine as of yet! But they are having some hiccups with the wet dual clutch transmission that they come with!
My 2013 Kia just got a new engine for free. Thank goodness is was just around the corner from my house.
Great info. Please improve your audio quality so we can hear it all lound and clear😊thanks
Just bought a 2022 Sorento Plug In Hybrid, how do you feel about these cars.
my 2017 kia sportage 2.4 went in to the LIMP MODE after driving in heavy rain. Next day apparently the moisture evaporated because just after clearing the code everything was OK
I have 2016 Kia forte5. 2.0. I believe it has the Nu engine. This car is made in Korea would that make any difference? what is my chance of engine failure? now it started to use one quart every 5000 miles oil change. am I on the way for some problems?
Is it possible to backflush a car's oil system to un-block plug passage ways? Also does anyone use a breakin oil on new or rebuild engines?
Great show, perfect explanation on car mechanics .Just have one question as you have a wealth of knowledge. Do Hyundai/KIA 2.0 litre mpi not gdi engines(Pre 2013) suffered from bearing crank failure as they are not on the recall list.
Are you talking about the belt driven 2.0 out of the elantra? Those engines are damn near bulletproof. Thoroughly enjoyed working on them
@S&E's Garage thanks for finding time to reply, no my engine is mpi 2.0 liter with a timing chain not with a belt and is not on the recall list hyundai Tucson 2012, 6speed automatic well serviced with original yellow dip stick. So is this engine a lemon??.
@@PeterSmith-ek2td these engines do have issues unfortunately, though not quite at the level of the theta engines
Hi, I love how clearly you describe things in your videos. Your knowledge is impressive. I was wondering if you had any knowledge or experience on the Genesis 3.3 TT engines. I bought a new 2022 g70 with this engine. I typically like to keep my cars for over 100,000 miles. Do you foresee problems with this engine or turbos for long life? I always do my own oil changes with synthetic at recommended intervals. I did the first change early at 1600 miles after I watched your video when you did your early change on your Camry. I am a bit concerned about the carbon buildup issue with DI. Any info or advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
Though I’ve never personally worked on a 3.3 minus oil changes and maintenance, they are not very DIY friendly. In most applications, any turbo work requires dropping the powertrain out of the car due to the way they’re packaged in the engine compartment. Early on in the Kia stinger there were recalls for turbo related failures that required engine removal to address. Just run top tier fuels and run some sort of induction cleaner through the intake via a vacuum line every 15-20k and you should be able to keep the carbon at bay. Hyundai/Kia V6 engines have never really been a troublesome engine minus a few bad ones, but that’s to be expected with any manufacturer
Thank you! I hit the subscribe button!
Just a quick question about your response…why would top tier gas or gas with detergents in it help if the gas doesn’t flow over the valves anyway?
@@shinedownfly it will help keep your injectors cleaner, along with the combustion chambers. Unfortunately the only thing that’s going to keep valves clean in a DI vehicle is routine service.
@@SEsGarage Does that include the 3.3 engine on a 2017 Santa Fe Lmited Ultimate AWD? I had an issue with carbon buildup in the injectors. I was told at the dealership that the injector were acting up and they were pushing me to buy all of them and I was like nope so I bought a small tube of seafoam injector cleaner. I was skeptical about the injector cleaner but knock on wood four months later no DTC code and I use the car everyday. The car has 112K and I've never cleaned the back of the valves.
I have a question for you... LOL So they did a complete engine replacement on my car and now not even 2 years later I am getting the same code coming up. I have maintained the vehicle ever since I got it back religiously lol because I am scared of something going wrong but now, we are back in the same boat again I pulled the P1326 code and this time I'm going straight to the manufacturer for answers, and I have opened a claim with them because I can't do all of this again. But wanted to know if you have ever heard of this happening after an engine replacement? I would have thought that by doing that they would have fixed all the issues and I would be good to go now?
Man, you rock! This video and the other one! Are these numbers, 132, 162, 953, the same for kia? Keep up the great work!
Kias bulletins are totally different unfortunately, I’m not too familiar with them, but they all basically say the same thing
Thanks! I also asked a question on your other video... about actual bearing tolerances and what's acceptable and what's not? As far as actual measurements in thousandths...
Thanks, and have a great holiday!
@@msands7713 unfortunately Hyundai/Kia did not release what the pass/fail threshold was when performing the rod bearing clearance test. We simply got a pass/fail message upon completion of the test. I unfortunately do not have access to service information any more to get you the actual specification
please suggest Hyundai Santa Fe 2022, does it has reliable Engine or Not.?
I have this problem right now on a customer's 2014 Tucson 2.0L. P1326. There does not appear to be any engine noise that I can hear and the engine has been well maintained. I found a bulletin about aftermarket oil filters but that sounds like a shift of the blame. Do you know if the T3G campaign applies to the Tucson? Great video's BTW. Subscribed!
Yes, the T3G does apply to the tuscon. Have them take the car to the dealer and be sure it has the latest software version. If it does, I’d be pretty confident in replacing that knock sensor
The aftermarket oil filter bulletin is more for cold start rattle from the chain/phasers. I’m very familiar with that TSB
@@SEsGarage Thanks for the reply. Apparently it had the programming recall done in the end of November. I linked your channel in my video: ua-cam.com/video/O61_fHfZygU/v-deo.html
Replaced the oil filter to be safe and if it returns will be sending to the dealer for further diagnosis. Thanks.
Very informative. 👍I got the knock sensor update on my 2013 Hyundai Santa Fe Sport in 2018 but just today it was triggered when I went over 80 mph on the expressway. Started going down in RPM and couldn't go over 60 mph very scary with all those vehicles behind us. Guess I'll be calling Hyundai customer support and see if they can do anything for me. 😔Thanks for the info.
my 2014 sanfa fe sport 2.0 engine light just came on flashing after putting gas in and I felt a down pull in the rpm as well. It shaked scary still owing quite a bit on this car worried.
SAME thing happened to my optima! Was going 80 car started stalling couldn’t accelerate over 60. Oil pressure light came on and engine seized
@@radiancebae6083😢
I literally had this happened to me last week coming from work. I never had an issues, took it in for recalls or maintenance and I just changed the spark plugs and clean engined the six months ago. Anyways, my engine light came on out of now where as I was driving home, I had to limp home and it threw this knock sensor failure code. And Hyundai still has no recall and would have to wait to get it repaired so, I ended up taking it to a nearby mechanic who knew what was happening but I have $700. It's a 2015 Hyundai Sonata Sport under 60k miles.
I have a 2017 veloster 1.6 92k miles. My question is. is it possible that they accidentally updated this car with software from a different Motor size? Can it be flashed back 2original default? In your video you said the campaign changes some parameters for the knock sensitivity. I think it may be oversensitive on this vehicle causing the safe mode. If this car is knocking it's gotta be preignition or detonation.
I have P1326 code The engine runs strong there Is no play in the rod Bearing Clearance. The engine has some noise At idle sounds a little like diesel. But like I said runs strong and the noise to me sounds minimal. I clear the code drive it down the freeway about 20 miles. Then the light starts flashing and limp mode i use 91 premium octane Fuel.
I went in and clean the Valves at the intake they We're quite sludgy but still had the same result.
This car has been at the dealer 6 months They are trying to get a motor replacement approved If I don't get approved I want to try to make this car drivable at some point
But why are the rode bearing failures occurring? You've told us that it's the reason why the engines fail and all the nifty software to detect it but why are they failing? Lack of oil? Poor maintenance? metal burrs mixing with engine oil impacting lubrication???
So what happens after they change the KS and the problem continues to happen? i had the KS replaced after limp mode in NOV and happened again same P1326 code in Jan. they said last time it passed the clearance test but i continue to still have issues with the engine going into LHM, its currently at the dealership now
Hi I have a 2013 hyundai sonata 2.0t I was driving on the highway and the vehicle went into limp mode and wouldn't drive and when I started it the next day it was knocking not running right with the codes p1326 and p0011 I called hyundai and they said my recalls were all up to date from previous owner and to call the nearest hyundai dealer to see if I am approved for the new engine since you use to do the testing do you think I will get approved?
I recently got this vehicle with around 53k miles. It has a engine recall for a bearing related failure. This is my question, should I wait before I get the engine tested? It has relatively low mileage and i'm concerned. The issue is excessive wear that leads to engine failure. So if the current amount of wear isnt detectable to the machine that does the test and they say its fine, then lets say in 30k more miles it failes and im out an engine. The woman at the dealership said its a 30 minute test on a computer and they can tell if there's an issue. But im concerned if the issue hasnt developed yet, then i may get a "pass" on a vehicle that will eventually fail for the recall issue.
Is all sonata 2013 models have this issues? I have got a offer for 110 k miles its $10k price tag. Is there any way to check if this models falls under this recall?
@100k and dumping oil constantly. Would it be best to trade in ?
This is outstanding, I’m subscribed for life. I have code P1326 now on my 2015 Sorento, after it shutdown in the road I had it towed to Kia. The dealer inspected and determined I needed a new engine, but Kia denied it and said it passed the rod bearing clearance test and shows no sign of bearing damage. Should I suspect the knock sensor or harness if no sign of bearing damage? Thanks!
If your software is up-to-date and has the latest update then yes a knock sensor would be your next step
@@SEsGarage Great thanks so much! I’ve Liked, Shared and Subscribed to your channel.
Mines the complete opposite I’ve had three knock sensors my engine is failing and I literally have to do a drawn out process just for then to replace the engine
Hey brother, thank you for all the info, I have a 2014 Genesis Coupe 2.0t and the engines are not GDI, is there anything special about why they start to rod knock? Mine had 56000k miles on it and it died bc number 3 cylinder spun a bearing. I am just curious if there are any related issues between the GDI and MPI platforms that make them chunck bearings? Thanks a million for the video!
Start a PATREON btw ! I would happily donate to the cause !
How often did you change the oil and were you using an OEM oil filter? My 2013 Genesis Coupe 2.0T is running great at 111K miles. Oil analysis shows my engine is in excellent shape.
I ha e a 2017 hyundai sonata se with 130,000 just got oil change went with Full Synthetic and now I've got 2 codes 1 with mis fire the other with p123600 and don't know what to do I'm being told to buy new motor... What should I do
Great Video!!! New subscriber!! I have a 2020 Optima 2.4l 58K with NO issues or oil consumption to this point. No recalls so don't think I have the knock sensor. I assume these post-settlement Theta 2's have not been modified or fixed?? Researching a lot and you mentioned briefly here about checking the oil. I see many say regular oil changes then boom 2 months later but none mention how often they check their oil as they go. I check mine weekly at a minimum so I expect if I lose a little I can keep it topped off requiring a 1/2 quart at the most but probably less in a bad situation. My question is: If I do this based on your experience will that lessen the likely hood of rod bearing failure??
I’ve seen dealer maintained vehicles with oil changed every 3750 miles fail with proper oil level, and I’ve seen neglected engines routinely ran low or extended drain intervals just keep on going. They fail for no rime or reason
@@SEsGarage A 3700 mile oil change interval with synthetic. What a f***ing JOKE. I’ve seen many go longer with oil analysis. Good job Hyundai engineers
Can p1326 come due to piston slap , can you have a piston slap if your car is not burning oil at all ? Thanks
Once these engines fail, that's it right? Will it break down multiple times before totally not working? I have a mystery problem with my Sorento. I believe it's an emissions problem though. It started off hesitating here and there but recently it's been obvious that this happens after getting gas and now it completely dies. Kia tried telling me that it is bad gas ( which I started to believe because it wouldn't happen every time) but no way. This last time the car is behaving/running rough and shut down more than once. I'm not going to drive it anymore and am taking it back in. Thet recently replaced the charcoal canister and canister close valve because I couldn't pump gas and they are saying that those parts are fine. I don't understand how this has not thrown codes but it hasn't yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for helping me understand more about my engine and the whole debacle behind it. Since you seem to be pretty intimately familiar with these Theta II engines, what is the most common reason for the oil burning? I am burning about 1 qt every 1000 miles in Eco mode and a little less in normal mode. Was wondering what I could do about it. Dealer already did the carbon cleaning though they have been dodgy at best. Was thinking about just saying screw it and replacing my rod bearings before they fail, though that may just be pushing the problem out to a further date.
Not accusing you of anything here but we usually only saw oil burning issues in theta engines with questionable service history. Hyundai release the service bulletin to perform a special type of carbon cleaning of the combustion chambers with a special service tool. That service bulletin must be performed and oil consumption tested after before any engine replacements are authorized. The service is supposed to attempt to free up any clogged or frozen oil control rings.
@@SEsGarage I appreciate the candid response. I did purchase the car used from another dealer so I don't know it's previous history but growing up with a master tech as a father I always replace oil at 3m/3k. Since I've owned it only ever ran synthetic through it, except through the consumption tests since they wouldn't let me. What worries me is it was burning more oil after the cleaning and second round of consumption tests. I've run it through another oil change cycle and have been checking the dipstick often to get a measure of consumption (I know, not very scientific). After the cleaning it was around 1.3 qt per 1k, it's settled back down to 1 qt per 1k now though. Not really sure what to do next here.
@@Simpfan45 unfortunately being that you are the second owner the 100,000 mile powertrain warranty does not transfer over. So if you’re over five years or 60,000 miles unfortunately Hyundai doesn’t need to do anything about the oil consumption and you’re only covered for rod bearing failure. 1 quart per thousand is more or less the threshold for warranty replacement. That being said you can ask the Hyundai dealer to submit a goodwill request for engine replacement and see what Hyundai offers as far as assistance if anything
I had this issue. I did some of my own online research and found people reference a PCV Valve replacement. I had that replaced and it dramatically improved my burn.
@@L00KOUT I replaced our pcv in a 2017 Sportage that started burning oil around 50,000, it was no help. Now at 67000 it burns a 1 qt in 1000 miles, going in for carbon cleaning in 2 days. Have free oil changes and got them done on time. So if they do nothing, and Kia corporate won't help, will switch to 20w40 or get rid of it and never buy Kia again. Oh, the Theta II motors have an extension on their warranty due to law suits, doesn't matter if you're 1st or 2nd owener for the 2.0 and 2.4 Theta II's.
My 2017 Sonata Sport has the 2.4 Liter! It burns a quart of oil every 150-175 miles! It has been doing this since 35,000 miles. I now has 120,000 miles and every other oil change, I do the CRC Intake & Turbo cleaner into the intake! The entire can! We did get that software update for the knock sensor! Hyundai wants us to do a oil consumption test and run it 1,000 miles! I told them, it would blow the engine by then cause it would be out of oil! Any advice for me???
Is the 2015 Sonata affected by these issues?
So is carbon build up/stuck rings causing the oil consumption issues?
Hello good sir! Your very knowledgeable btw. I have a 2013 Sonata and I have misfire codes for all 4 cylinders, could the misfires cause the P1326 code to come on?
Or could the knock sensor cause these misfire codes?
Thank you for the informative video, my wife and purchased a 21 sportage with the GDi 2.4 I believe is still the Theta 2 engine. Do these engines still have rod bearing issues ? If so what can I do to prevent this failure ? Change my oil earlier or run some oil stabilizer ? Thank you for your time.
Oh just sell it on.
From my experience the Sportage is one of few Kias that don't blow up that often of they're maintained properly..... The others being the Cadenza, and the Sedona
Yup, Theta II, Our 2017 Sportage started using oil around 50,000, now at 67000 it uses 1 qt per 1000 miles, going in for carbon clean in 2 days. I tried 10w30 and it went to a half a qt in 1000 miles. There is an extended warranty due to a lawsuit on these engines, if they don't honor it, I will use 15w40 until I can talk my wife into letting me get rid of it for never Kia again since they didn't honor their warranty. My 2016 Tucson with a 1.6L turbo is doing fine at 47000 miles, so ya, the Theta II has problems.
Supposedly , They Are Problematic From 2011 - 2019 ( Lower End Issues )
To prevent failure ride a bicycle
Interesting. My 2012 Kia optima sx had the diagnostic done and passed but they said if I hear any noises bring it in. I have a red dipstick as well. Engine seized up in 2022 at 149,000 miles. No warning at all. Fortunately I was in town and not at highway speeds when it happened. New engine doing well so far
How reliable is the 2.0L GDI Nu engine? I have 23K miles on one in a '19 Tucson SE. So far no issues (except for fuel diluting the engine oil) but I've heard a few reports on forums of failure at around 60K miles. I know Elantra's with the smaller 1.8L variant are notorious for piston slap developing, also at around 60K miles, which cascades into other problems (some theorize the piston head was designed too short).
They have an issue with piston ring design (too hard of a metal used to make them) coupled with the offset crankshaft design and lack of cylinder wall liners. Unfortunately they like to eat cylinder walls which does lead to piston slap and oil consumption. This requires at minimum a short block replacement to correct
One small question:
If i have to get my own repairs outside through an external mechanic how much will it cost for the oil burning issue. What all parts list are we looking at in the worst case scenario).
I plan of doing so because i am scared/suffocated by the feeling of having to drive a broken/oil-burning engine everyday to work,
and especially my Sonata is an embarrassment when I try to quickly speed up at a red light during night time (its like an Octopus trying to camouflage in the rear view mirror!)
Thanks.
You’d be looking at at minimum a tear down to inspect and possibly pistons/rings. Could be scored cylinder walls which would require replacing the block as well
I have a 2016kia optima with 55,600 miles and got a P132600 knock sensor range/performance. This code is a hard code, unable to clear. There is a TSB PI1802w /x address engine replacement for this DTC code.
I own a 2012 Sonata limited with 62k miles on it, it was in an accident and has acquired a salvage title, it only needed body work the engine wasn’t hit. Does Hyundai honor recalls on salvage titles? I. Told no, but also yes if it’s a safety issue.
You mentioned the 18-19 Tuscan. What about the 17 Tuscan? I have a 17 Tuscan 1.6T that I bought brand new in June, 2017. I’ve taken it in for 2 recalls but they didn’t really tell me what they did. Due to the pandemic I haven’t driven much at all the last 2 years so I still have low mileage and haven’t had issues yet. What should I expect to go wrong with it?
I've a 2016 ECO turbo Tucson, 1.6L so no Theta II problems, only 47000 miles, I use full synthetics, change it when it's dirty, aound the 4 month mark, once a year spray seafoam in the PCV system and clean the intake, will be installing a catchcan this summer, but my warranty is over so it won't void anything. I've had no problems so far.
Please i have kia Sportage 2016 with code p1326, glow relay - struck on, please i need your help
Great video brother yeah my 2013 Hyundai sonata 2.0T has that code and my Mechanic systems told a new knock sensor. Car still goes into limp mode after drivering it 50 miles. Bought her new never had a issues up til now at 148K miles on motor. Sucks so Thursday taking it to Circle Hyundai. Your from LIBI California? I know we got a long beach island here in dirty jersey.
I’m from jersey! Know right where circle is. I worked at causeway on route 72
@@SEsGarage wow that's great brother yeah I head freehold isn't so good so thata why I'm taking her there. Next car is Honda or Toyota for sure 👊 I'm glad that they are at least covering it because of out government ans law suits lol.
My 2018 SantaFe 2.0T had the “80CA08 ECM update & P1326 wiring & Engine Replacement in Feb 2020 at 65,000 Km after it went into Limp mode. All good since that fix. Last week Nov 2021 the engine light started to flash now at 118,000 Km (out of warranty), limp mode started and noticed while going around a traffic loop, the oil light would flash on then go away. I got to a gas station, I shutoff the engine, then when I restarted again and I could hear the engine knock quite loudly. Drove home 2km, checked the oil stick & it was bone dry? Where did all the oils go? I filled it up 4.7 L to normal levels, no change in engine knock. We were already booked next week for our reg oils change. My OBD2 shows the “P1326 Glow Relay Short Circuit”. Dealer said to drive it in for inspection. I had the truck towed to our dealer to avoid possible damage. Any Ideas if I’m toast with an expensive engine rebuild or likely just need a new sensor again + software?
Loving your channel, TY for taking the time with details.
Follow up: got word back from dealership they have ordered a new engine and will replace under the recall, no cost.
Thx for educating us so we are informed. Much appreciated.
My 15 Tucson is doing the same. I got it used and I’m at 81,000 miles on it. I’m not the original owner. With the engine recall you go what warranty were you under?
@@ianlichty5587 it’s a global recall, regardless of warranty. The warranty (in Ontario Canada) allows for a free rental car for 10 days with extensions of motor is delayed, but no extension of head gasket is delayed.
@@ianlichty5587 you don't have to be the original owner. Call Hyundai Corporate 1st and let them set u up with the dealer, any problems with dealership always use Hyundai Corporate for mediation, get a case number from the Corporate too. It worked for our 2013 santafe sport 2.0 T.
@@miklav6746 , Hi Mike , how ddid go with yours Hyundai on the end , I had my engine bloc replaced , but still problems after that , knocking sensor replace , cathalitic convertor repalced, updated softvere , still vehicle is in shop right now, thry trying to solve the issue with Hyundai Canada, have no idea what they have to do next !
Oil dilution at each cold start (summer/winter) and low 1000rpm cruising, nice explosive mix. Cars doing mostly short drives are the most at risk, gasoline doesn't have time to evaporate from the engine oil. Many engines seize either around 85k miles, or around 135k miles. There's also a false limp mode when knock sensor gets wet - heavy rain or carwash. Let car dry a few days. Most likely the oil dilution was created by Hyundai themselves when they were looking for a quick cheap way to prevent carbon build up. New 2.5 engine got both direct and port injection so no longer carbon build up and no longer oil dilution. Basically, the 2.5 is what the 2.4 and 2.0T should have been from the start.
So if a car has had the 953 update by an original owner would a second owner still have the rod bearing failure warranty after the 10 year/ 100k miles?
Yes, lifetime coverage for rod bearing failure only
As a very small point of clarification (that admittedly adds little/nothing to the conversation) the Theta II debuted in the CM2 Santa Fe in 2010. It was in MPI form for 2010-2012, and was eventually added to the scope of the various 'service actions' where they add that knock sensor software.
Yes, I have one... as part of that service action my warranty would have been extended to 12 years/200,000km. I declined to get it done, as a Blackstone UOA had previously come out clean as a whistle, and frankly had guessed on my own that the software would be buggy/cause the false positives as you mentioned here. If a rod bearing does start to crap out, I want maximum available power to be able to maneuver out of traffic - losing power in traffic is way more dangerous around here than possibility of a fire.
203,000 km and still running like a champ (for now).
I'm hoping my engine gets replace I been waiting for 3 months to be diagnose it's obvious what's wrong with it rod bearing failure they told me to drive it in after that p1236 code pop up 10 minutes later I had my engine go out it leak oil every where I had just changed my oil they did come pick it up I drove by there yesterday it has a number hanging from the rearview mirror now idk what that mean I hope that mean I'm close to getting diagnose it's been hell without a loaner car they say I gotta wait till the engine approved to get a loaner
So my 2015 Kia optima got a code P1326 and got sent the Dealship around late January. I was told my car was on hold at the dealership for 2 months due to so back up and that was just for the diagnostics. Last Thursday (30th march) I finally got the call that they pulled it into the shop finally. That next day (31) I got called again by the dealership and that it was fixed and everything. He said that there was a spark that needed to be fixed and some corrosion buildup. They fixed it and I drove it but my mileage was off by +200 even tho I didn't drive it to the dealership initially, it was towed there and I saw that my oil was dark too. Fast forward to Saturday night im driving to work and my engine light is back on and flashing with the same P1326 code. What's wrong?!?!?!
I own a 2008 Hyundai Elantra and they have sent me a notice to bring it in to have the ABS module replaced because of catastrophic failures that have lead to fires and unfortunately at least one death. I know im going to have to do this because a fire could start at any time. Even when the car is parked and turned off. I've been parking it backed in to give the engine compartment some distance from our newer 2017 Hyundai Tucson incase this happens, or parking it out in a parking lot completely away from our apartment. The thing is, it's been a great car and it has 140,000 + miles on it, 70k of which I put on it. I've heard horror stories about people taking them in and having a fire after the replacement of the ABS unit or some other problems pertaining to poor workmanship on behalf of the dealership mechanics. I guess my question is, can I have a mechanic of my choice do the repair or do I have to take it to Hyundai? I have heard a lot about problems people have been having and I know the threat is real, but both our Hyundai's have been absolute gems, except for cheap brake light sockets that wear out from the heat of the bulbs. I don't like anyone messing around with my stuff unless I know they're legitimate, good certified mechanics.