Metals and neutral colors black: vallejo- black 70.950 white: pro acryl- bold titanium white ivory: vallejo- pale sand dark grey: scale 75- petroleum grey grey: pro acryl- bright neutral grey silver: vallejo- duralumin or dark aluminum copper: vallejo- metal color copper gold: scale 75- dwarven gold bronze: pro acryl- matt cexwish dark bronze brass: citadel- runelord brass Contrast paints bone: citadel- skeleton horde light skin: citadel- guilliman flesh dark skin: citadel- cygor brown dead skin: citadel- magos purple green skin: citadel- plaguebearer flesh leather: citadel- snakebite leather reddish fur: citadel- gore-grunta fur transparent blue: citadel- talassar blue transparent red: citadel- flesh tearers red transparent yellow: citadel- bad moon yellow shading orange: citadel- gryph-hound orange black: citadel- black templar or black legion green glow: citadel- tesseract glow Basic colors dark red: pro acryl- burnt red red: pro acryl- bold pyrrole red pink: vallejo game color- squid pink plum: vallejo game color- warlord purple purple: pro acryl- vince venturella royal purple light purple: pro acryl- purple magenta: pro acryl- magenta dark blue: scale 75- navy blue blue: pro acryl- blue light blue: vallejo- deep sky blue jade: pro acryl- jade turquoize: vallejo- blue green 70.808 dark green: scale 75- boreal green green: scale 75- irati green puke green: pro acryl- vince venturella dark yellow green bright green: pro acryl- bright yellow green yellow: pro acryl- golden yellow orange: golden (brand)- pyrrole orange brown: pro acryl- ninjon warm brown (lots of other good options out there, allegedly) Washes black wash: citadel- nuln oil brown wash: citadel- agrax earthshade skin/gold wash: citadel- reikland fleshshade purple wash: citadel- druchii violet Wildcards (brad wanted to get to 50) red manipulation: pro acryl- mahogany (mess around with burnt red) faded purple: pro acryl- faded plum dark jade: pro acryl- vince venturella dark jade hot pink (don't do it): AK interactive- fluorescent magenta rust/aged bronze: scale 75- decayed metal
Yellow: Imperial Fists contrast paint over very light pink. It doesn't behaves like a contrast paint at all, doesn't pools, is highly pigmented. Its a total game changer.
@@chetmanley1885 even with a regular brush I was able to paint whole Primaris tanks, which are notorious for their large flat panels, without any pooling with IF Yellow, its just that good.
@@manda60two thin coats bottles are a mixed bag yeah. Dropper bottles are nice but it feels like so much of the paint is sitting on the tip constantly and for what? Im obsessed with their dragons gold. Its finally given me retributor armor in a usable form. Im looking to pick up their liberator gold equivalent
Vallejo German Grey. It's "light black." It's amazing. Nearest thing I've seen is Corvus Black from GW. Basically German Grey + Nuln Oil gets you "black, but with shadows." I can't explain it, just buy it.
Update: I bought it, looks amazing when it dries- but then I found one that beat it. ProAcryl Black Brown. It's super pigmented and covers perfectly over anything. I still use the Vallejo though :)
Great episode! I'm a commission painter; based on everything that you guys have said in this I really think that you should consider investing in a paint shaker or a vortex mixer. Several of the paints you specifically call out as being difficult to work with are ones that I've noticed just need a ton of shaking before they work right. Extra special thanks to the editor!
I'd definitely say a primer paint is a must have, no matter what colour. Just a basic grey spray is super useful. I've been using a Tamiya light grey spray, and it's great
Magenta is different because it's a combination of high energy light (reds) and low energy lights (blue) but almost devoid of any medium wave lengths colors (green). It's rarer in nature (hence why it's not in a rainbow) but our brains can perceive it. It makes it "feel" distinctive from pink (which is desaturated red). I believe this man made element to Magenta makes it feel appropriate in SciFi settings on an almost unconscious level.
@@kris220b yes technically pink and red and only separated by lightness. Its similar to why brown is technically very dark orange and why you don't see brown on a basic color wheel. I didn't want to assume people had knowledge on color theory nor know how to condense that all into one concise comment 😅 so yeah "saturated" was the best I could do on the spot
As an art/color theory nerd this is correct... magenta is a v high saturation mid-hue purple (meaning it comes from blue and red)... pink (of any variety) is also often very saturated but is a higher hue high lightness red. It all sounds confusing but understanding hue, value, and saturation will solve your paint matching problems much better than "find the complimentary on the color wheel" technique
as an european, paint ranges are always interesting to hear about from Amarikans because in the case of vallejo and pro acryl, we have the complete opposite. i have no clue where I can find any pro acryl at all but vallejo, it is everywhere. i think you can find vallejo even more then you can find citadel.
I mean, Vallejo is a European company and Pro Acryl (Monument Hobbies) is an American company, so it makes sense. But yeah, the Pro Acryl paints are just amazing.
@@davet.5493 i dont agree basic color usage is the same regardless of brand fx highlight color brighter than your base color, works as a rule regardless of color or brand
Hej guys, so happy to hear that you enjoy our Signature Series Dark Bronze! 😁 Together with Ben and Jason from MH we have been developing our Signature Sets for around 1 1/2 years in total until we found the perfect Bronze paibt that no one else offered and is an ideal base for a number of Metals (and stays fresh until the end). Happy having found your Channel, keep up the great work! Liked + Subscribed! 😊
I just wanna say, Berilio (I think I spelled that right) does amazing work on editing and y’all are so full to listen to. Love y’all! (And yes, I am looking for the soda for y’all. No luck yet)
Vallejo Xpress is excellent. Just one glaring issue tho: there's so very few of them. It's not even a quarter of a range. I hope this changes, Xpress' reception has been very positive.
if you want to not die painting things yellow I highly recommend golden so flat yellows. They get basically full coverage in 1 thin coat and on black it just takes 2 or 3 thin coats. they are absolute magic
Bought a bold titanium white, but then ordered the pro acryl base set so ended up with 2 bottles of the white. Nice to hear that's the opposite of a problem.
I started with the absolute minimum amount of paints. Army Painter: - Black, White - Red, Green, Blue - Metallics Gunmetal, Bronze - Nuln Oil All other colours I got by mixing 5 colors I had. First 1000 pts space marine army was painted with those. Then I got Browns, Purples and Technical paints, coz with existing colors it was hard to get those colors. So another 2000 points of Space Marines were painted.
I recently got into warhammer again for the first time in almost 17 years, and I have been paralyzed with the thought of budgeting for getting going again. I really needed this. Thank you PH
I'm not surprised to see Pro Acryl so much on this list. Monument Hobbies really nailed down the perfect consistency for easy brush/airbrush work with minimal thinning needed, and the price point per paint is very good. Speedpaint 2.0 has been a godsend for me. I agree that 1.0 was not good at all, but the 2.0 line does contrast much better, and more importantly to me feels a lot easier to work with. I'm fighting it for even coverage a lot less than I do with contrast paints or 1.0. I have an ork army that is mostly contrast, and after getting the 2.0 set and finding good equivalents I've switched over to speedpaints for the rest of my models. For ork skin, I'm also not a fan of the pale/pastel green. I'm really happy with Striking Scorpion, then 1:1 Frostheart/Medium (Shamrock Green and Magic Blue for SP). I gets you a much more saturated/poppy skin color without giving them Incredible Hulk skin.
I agree too.. Speedpaint 2.0 are great... 1.0 had issues which were just a hassle... I feel like army painter rushed speedpaints 1.0 to the market just to say they had them and then had to go back and refine them...
I've been using a lot of the paints from Reaper Miniatures lately, since I can order paint from them when I order figures and with their triad system, you've got your low, mid and highlight so you don't have to look through everything to find the right colors, plus they're easy to shoot through an airbrush and go on nice and clean with a brush too. That plus Anne Foerster's painting tips and tricks on their youtube channel have helped me improve even more than I'd thought I could, even after having been doing this for over 20 years. I'm just glad we've got so many different paints now, used to be the ONLY options you had were Testor's Enamel paints. Believe me, you don't want to try painting an entire army or a handful of D&D minis with just enamel. It does not end well.
Thank you so much for this helpful and insightful advice. I’m new to the hobby and needed a place to start with paints, I just ordered your recommendations.
I kid you not, I watched this video as I was taking off the seals of my base set of pro acryl paints that just came in the mail, and this video made me feel confident in my purchase
More than happy to give this video at least one rewatch, as it came on the eve of a big trip to the LGS with a friend, with the goal to split either the Leviathan box, or another wargame box set like SW Legion or LotR. Many thanks to the hosts and the editor for sorting the wheat from the chaff, I will surely need at least half of these paints!
I always watch the youtube videos even after listening to the podcast, and this episode is a prime example of why. Some very good options here - definitely not using it as a shopping list, but there's quite a few that I'll be picking up in the near future.
With today's video drop and the scuttlebutt in the industry, Army Painter seems to have taken your video as a challenge. Even Brent from Goobertown commented on the Fanatic line's coverage. The orange from the range looks to cover well.
This is one of the best paints recommandations that I’ve saw. No 100% marketing from a partnership with a brand ! As I’m in the move to order my first Pro Acryl, your video will help me a lot to choose. Thanks !
On the subject of black and white you guys are correct. There are also 2 alternatives to these magical paints. Ak interactive black can go complete pound for pound with VMC black. Also Duncan's Two thin coats white star is the best option if you can't get bold titanium white.
Vallejo PREMIUM Airbrush Color (62.052) Gunmetal. (60ml is £6.00) This thing is incredible. This range is built for airbrushing things like model cars/boats/planes that are larger. This is a very dark silver, like a really charcoal grey. Its coverage with both brush and airbrush is a dream. I use it as a straight up primer in itself and it is tough as nails. Do you have anything metal you want to paint? Put this bad boy on it... Oh, a Necron army? Boom, this is the undercoat, drybrush your Vallejo Aluminum over it and call them done. If you want to get fancy with light silvers, you can. Its so good, and the cost per ml is excellent
Custodian speaking! And I have THOUGHTS on Gold. The mixed gold they mentioned from Vince Ventrella video is, unfortunately, irreplaceable. I've looked at literally every gold i could find, both model and art lines, and even experimented with straight up gilding my models in leaf - and the best, most consistent gold there is, is that mix. Second place is gilding - which looks Amazing when it works, and Really Bad when you screw up, and there's no good way to undo mistakes when gilding. Third place is "Pale Gold" from Golden Fluid Acrylics - the generic artist level brand from Michael's in the US. This one's a *little* green and a little pale, so feel free to darken it up with an orange ink. Honorable mention to Sepia Ink over Duraluminum from ProAcryl. I think people are sleeping hard on gilding. When it works, there's no gold paint that can possibly compare. It's much more vibrant and reflective than any metallic paint is physically capable of being, and the leaf is thin enough that you shouldn't be worried about losing details. I've done whole models and love them, and only elements on models and loved it. It's much more accessible than I think alot of people are imagining, and it's SO FAST: you can get great results in 10 minutes of work, rather than coat after coat of bad coverage from most other paint options. Imitation leaf is perfectly fine - you don't have to break the bank here. I highly, highly recommend it. The only elements you should be cautious of are elements where you notice the medium (the glue that holds the metal to the model) could pool - narrow valleys, sharp right angles in the model, etc. If it builds up or pools on itself, then it won't behave itself properly when dry. But if you avoid this pittfal, and WAIT the 25-30 minutes it takes for the medium to become workable after it's painted onto the model, you literally can just slap the metal onto the model. Use a cheap brush to press that metal into the crevices and break off the excess. If there are tears or cracks, just lay another sheet on top of them. Bada-bing-bada-boom you're done. it's really that easy.
The biggest thing for me, regarding the total price of all the paints, that a new person should keep in mind is that you don't need to buy every single paint at once. Buy it as you need it. I made almost monthly trips to a local store to get new colours and something cheap to paint with it (they have pre-primed D&D figures that worked really well for this) over the course of a year before I had everything I felt I needed.
Bold Pyrrole Red is my personal favourite paint. Period. It was my first in the line of Pro Acryl and I've been a fanboy ever since. I love love LOVE that paint!
This video turned me onto Proacryl Bold Titanium White especially since I'm working on White Scars. And At some point I definitely intend to look through Proacryls stuff so I can find a really good setup for my deep blue because I'd love to replace my Kantor Blue method.
Thanks for the video. I've subscribed to the Venturella method of shading and highlighting and keep a Sunny Skin Tone and a Payne's Gray within arm's reach at all times. Those 2 colors will blend into anything (except black or yellow) and build a complete value gradient.
I bought Vallejo Model Scarlet Red when looking for a red color, and I found that mixing it with the tiniest bit of white actually made a really cool shade of orange. I can't use it for red anymore though, it just looks like dark orange to me.
I have the full Pro Acryl range (except their metallics) and then I use the Vincy V recipes for metallics (Green Stuff World Gold + Gloss metal varnish, Vallejo Air metal Magnesium and Silver). I do have the new Matt Cexwish bronze and it's really cool! Other than that, Dirty Down Rust is super cool and also Molotow Liquid Chrome is insane.
whenever im feeling lazy and my melee weapons look kinda terrible, i always just slap some blood for the blood god on it and no one will ever know how bad it actually looks
Thanks for the reminder that I don't need to buy literally everything that exists all at once when I haven't even built my first army yet. I'm just getting into the hobby and have what one might call a bad habit of impulsively latching onto large purchases without considering whether I'll even use everything in said large purchase. No I can not actually afford such large purchases with my current finances. It's good to get the reminder every now and then to slow down and actually think for a second "what paints/models/terrain/etc will I actually NEED for my first army" so that I don't end up blowing through my entire savings account before even buying any actual model kits because I spent everything on paints, tools, brushes, airbrushes and other stuff so excessively that I rendered myself unable to afford said model kits.
I just tried Vallejo Metal Colour Dark Aluminium on your recommendation and thank you. THANK YOU! THANK YOU SO MUCH! FINALLY A SILVER THAT COVERS! IT'S SO GOOD!
For Runelord Brass, I actually think Scale75’s Moonstone Alchemy is a very solid substitute, mainly because it doesn’t separate like curdled milk if you leave it alone for 5 minutes. It’s just a little thicker than Runelord. Also, Army Painter Speedpaints are a top tier option and don’t let anybody tell you otherwise.
Thanks for making this one, ive only just started collecting minis and with this months pay check im looking to get the paint. Been following and watching you guys for soo long and I'm buzzing you guys have made it this far 50K woo!🎉
The army painter has a "bright gold" that is GOLD. I LOVE that paint. I've gotten people who are going to art school for painting to start using that color for their gold.
I am shocked that there isn't more AK stuff in here. honestly you guys should really use some more of their paints. I loved using luminous orange for my necrons orange glow on their guns and eyes.
As someone who has an LGS with the Two Thin Coats line I've picked up a bunch. They're all really good so far and I would definitely recommend swapping them for GW equivalents but I don't have many in Vallejo or Pro Acryl to compare to because I mostly bought GW before now (I know, I know). The dark purple is fantastic for my tyranids, and the greens and blacks are very good. I like their lighter reds a lot too. The Rakarth Flesh equivalent is fine, but since I'm painting a lot of flesh right now I'm blowing through it. Their metallics are also pretty good as well, I've used a few and they all cover well and look good
Pro Acryl is such a phenomenal brand, I'm fortunate in that I live in Phoenix where their headquarters are and thus supply is never an issue, but even then, it is hands down the best paint I've used for minis
The best gold I’ve used is Vallejo Liquid Gold. Red Gold specifically. It’s not Acrylic, so it can’t be on the list, but it covers beautifully, can be thinned with Isopropyl, can be drybrushed, and usually only requires a single coat.
AZ flex here, but Pro Acryl/Monument Hobbies is local to the Phoenix area. You can actually place an order with them for free pickup if you dont live close to the handful of LGS's that stock it.
I got a set of Reaper miniatures paint set and they work fine. I like Apple Barrel Pavement. I use mostly white or light gray primer so this gray made a great undercoat to make it black enough to know while not darkening the detail out. A good craft paint is great for large areas base is fine. A good mother of pearl matelic. Mostly just a white matelic paint. It just has a nice edge high like for a blade. For gold. I use silver paints with all the shading and layers. Then a yellow contrast paint on top.
Thanks for the white recommendation. I don't know why I never tried Pro Acryl bold titanium, but now I can't use another. Also, you really should try the Army Painter Fanatics. There is some good stuff in there.
Yellow paint: Gamblin’s Cadmium yellow oil paint. It is toxic. It takes forever to dry. It actually covers and doesn’t bleed other Color up from underneath without 5 layers unlike every other yellow I’ve ever tried.
Lol, I was taking notes as this was a shopping list. I´m starting with the hobby and have some Vallejo paints already but I want to expand the colors so I don't have to mix so much. Hence, I think I will give a chance to the pro-Acryl starting set [it had many of the recommended colors and is like $100 per 24 great quality paint] and save to get the Metal Engine set from Vallejo in the future.
For gold there is a good ready to use paint. Vallejo Liquid Gold Gold line is great with only a single potential problem being that it is an alcohol based acrylic.
I'm really liking the ProAcryl artist signature series paints. I still need to dig into the two new sets, they only recently arrived and i haven't had a chance to work with them yet. +1 to Talassar Blue from the GW contrast lineup. Have you guys worked south Two Thin Coats paint yet? I'm liking them as a cheaper alternative to the main GW line. Each color already comes as a triad of dark, medium, light versions to take stone off the guesswork out.
Proacryl's Bronze is my favorite metalic paint of all time. And I do amazing work with it. And now I have Dark Bronze, Bronze and Light bronze is just incredible.
Can't say I've been in a hurry to transition into ProAcryl but I have to say the four signature sets are full of colours (uk) I've always dreamed of having
Y'know, a long time ago in Covid times I bought some Eldar online really wanting to get into the hobby (again, I did as a kid but that's like over a decade ago), but I just ended up having real problems getting the paint I wanted (pink) and by the time I did, my energy to paint and get into the hobby had faded for whatever reason. I'm pretty sure my starter kit of paints all dried up or died, maybe I gave them away, I can't remember but I can't find them so the few times I did get the urge to go back to giving the hobby a try I never did. But this list actually has inspired me to maybe look at getting 3 or so basic paints, see how I go with doing up the basic looks of my Eldar, see how I feel about it. This is a really nice basic resource to just be like "Hey, so this pink is good, this white is good, this light blue is good, okay I have a base colour scheme to work with."
Scalecolor Navy Blue is perfect for Crimson Fists. So good. For Orange, I tend to use Reaper Orange Brown as a base for brighter oranges, because like mentioned in the video, orange over anything else sucks. Reaper Orange Brown goes over most other colors pretty decently.
The Citadel Chaos Black spraycan primer is actually really nice and I would absolutely recommend for newbies. It's very forgiving, the wet paint just seems to flow and minimize. It's the opposite of skme white spraycan that is incredibly temperamental and easy to cake on.
I've been painting my Death Korps models' packs and straps with Vallejo's flat earth to give it more of a light leather/deerskin look. Once it gets shaded with agrax earthshade, you end up with (imo) a great looking leather that isn't a reddish brown.
@Deus888 I'm starting to think these guys are just lazy neckbeards. As soon as the game changes the competitive community bitching because they have to think is hilarious too.
My gold solution works really well for trim. Gundam acrylic paint marker gold. Super simple, it's in a marker with it's own applicator and it looks great. It's not metallic per say but has a nice sheen to it. It's a little bright for Warhammer but that's part of why I use it. Stands out on the table compared to other golds
Before starting the video. Ak 3rd gen and Vallejo acrilics are the best paints. All of their colours act similarly, Most of the 3rd gen acrilics cover in two thin coats (even the pastel colours) For colours I'd say: Black, White, The colours of your army/you like the most (pick around 5 at most because you can have the darker and paller versions with black and white), one or two metalics (a medium silver and a gold are always nice), one dark brown wash like agrax earthshade or the one from vallejo game colours (because its more versatile than a black wash). Matt and gloss varnish (I recommend the big bottles from vallejo premium airbrush sets) and a cheap can primer (black imo because the details that you cant reach with a brush wont be noticeable) Note, If you're painting like a space marine or a stormtrooper with white armour, pick a white or light gray primer.
Strong picks. If avaible the AK starter set is one of the strongest on the market, it has the one of the widest, least redundant color ranges, for a reasonable price.
new speedpaint 2.0 is really good, the old 1.0 can be really good for blending and what not as the reativation means you can essentially wetblend on a dry model but personally i prefer the 2.0
PALE SAND
THE QUEEN OF THE HOWLING SANDS HAS BEEN SUMMONED! Quake in fear ye mortals.
PALE SAND
Pale sand is the goat 🐐
There's a Pro Acryl version now. XD
Pocket pale sand!!!
Metals and neutral colors
black: vallejo- black 70.950
white: pro acryl- bold titanium white
ivory: vallejo- pale sand
dark grey: scale 75- petroleum grey
grey: pro acryl- bright neutral grey
silver: vallejo- duralumin or dark aluminum
copper: vallejo- metal color copper
gold: scale 75- dwarven gold
bronze: pro acryl- matt cexwish dark bronze
brass: citadel- runelord brass
Contrast paints
bone: citadel- skeleton horde
light skin: citadel- guilliman flesh
dark skin: citadel- cygor brown
dead skin: citadel- magos purple
green skin: citadel- plaguebearer flesh
leather: citadel- snakebite leather
reddish fur: citadel- gore-grunta fur
transparent blue: citadel- talassar blue
transparent red: citadel- flesh tearers red
transparent yellow: citadel- bad moon yellow
shading orange: citadel- gryph-hound orange
black: citadel- black templar or black legion
green glow: citadel- tesseract glow
Basic colors
dark red: pro acryl- burnt red
red: pro acryl- bold pyrrole red
pink: vallejo game color- squid pink
plum: vallejo game color- warlord purple
purple: pro acryl- vince venturella royal purple
light purple: pro acryl- purple
magenta: pro acryl- magenta
dark blue: scale 75- navy blue
blue: pro acryl- blue
light blue: vallejo- deep sky blue
jade: pro acryl- jade
turquoize: vallejo- blue green 70.808
dark green: scale 75- boreal green
green: scale 75- irati green
puke green: pro acryl- vince venturella dark yellow green
bright green: pro acryl- bright yellow green
yellow: pro acryl- golden yellow
orange: golden (brand)- pyrrole orange
brown: pro acryl- ninjon warm brown (lots of other good options out there, allegedly)
Washes
black wash: citadel- nuln oil
brown wash: citadel- agrax earthshade
skin/gold wash: citadel- reikland fleshshade
purple wash: citadel- druchii violet
Wildcards (brad wanted to get to 50)
red manipulation: pro acryl- mahogany (mess around with burnt red)
faded purple: pro acryl- faded plum
dark jade: pro acryl- vince venturella dark jade
hot pink (don't do it): AK interactive- fluorescent magenta
rust/aged bronze: scale 75- decayed metal
Out here doing the lords work, was about to sit down and try to create the same list, glad i checked the comments!
Ur a saint
Thank you!
legend
GOAT
Yellow: Imperial Fists contrast paint over very light pink. It doesn't behaves like a contrast paint at all, doesn't pools, is highly pigmented. Its a total game changer.
It really doesn't pool when you airbrush it. All the second wave yellows are great, Ban Moons is extremely bright I love it
@@chetmanley1885 even with a regular brush I was able to paint whole Primaris tanks, which are notorious for their large flat panels, without any pooling with IF Yellow, its just that good.
I use imperial fist yellow on genestealers and nids and it is the best
Two Thin Coats' "Skulker Yellow" over Ushabti Bone. It's my new go-to yellow, but MAN do I HATE the bottles Two Thin Coats uses!
@@manda60two thin coats bottles are a mixed bag yeah. Dropper bottles are nice but it feels like so much of the paint is sitting on the tip constantly and for what? Im obsessed with their dragons gold. Its finally given me retributor armor in a usable form. Im looking to pick up their liberator gold equivalent
My approval is immeasurable and my Wednesday is saved.
In all seriousness hope the editer didn’t have to push to hard.
I honestly have to say Berilio's editing makes podcasts so much better.
Love it
@@josephkokkinos9326 same!
They bamboozled all of us with the community post
For REAL
Is Berilio okay? Blink 3 times if you were forced to overwork
He can't blink, he'll be in a post-all-nighter coma for at least a few more hours.
Vallejo German Grey. It's "light black." It's amazing. Nearest thing I've seen is Corvus Black from GW. Basically German Grey + Nuln Oil gets you "black, but with shadows." I can't explain it, just buy it.
Ever see a recommendation that comes at the PERFECT time? That's you, my friend! Thank you!
I'm sold.
Update: I bought it, looks amazing when it dries- but then I found one that beat it. ProAcryl Black Brown. It's super pigmented and covers perfectly over anything. I still use the Vallejo though :)
@@Lesardah Ooo, I'll give ProAcryl Black Brown a try next! Thanks! :)
Great episode! I'm a commission painter; based on everything that you guys have said in this I really think that you should consider investing in a paint shaker or a vortex mixer. Several of the paints you specifically call out as being difficult to work with are ones that I've noticed just need a ton of shaking before they work right. Extra special thanks to the editor!
It really is a game changer. I've had quite a few paints I despised become enjoyable to work with since buying a vortex mixer.
I'd definitely say a primer paint is a must have, no matter what colour. Just a basic grey spray is super useful. I've been using a Tamiya light grey spray, and it's great
Primer is as basic as tool as clippers and a knife for this
wat. primer is a tool 🤨🤨
Agreed, I use army painter black, then highlight with tamiya white on the top. Looks great everytime
tamiya is the best primer. this whole discussion about is really pointless without starting at the start... primer.
I tend to skew more towards a Charcoal and then an off-white Zenithal.
Magenta is different because it's a combination of high energy light (reds) and low energy lights (blue) but almost devoid of any medium wave lengths colors (green). It's rarer in nature (hence why it's not in a rainbow) but our brains can perceive it. It makes it "feel" distinctive from pink (which is desaturated red). I believe this man made element to Magenta makes it feel appropriate in SciFi settings on an almost unconscious level.
Isnt desaturated red just a paler less strong red?
And pink would be a very light red?
@@kris220b yes technically pink and red and only separated by lightness. Its similar to why brown is technically very dark orange and why you don't see brown on a basic color wheel. I didn't want to assume people had knowledge on color theory nor know how to condense that all into one concise comment 😅 so yeah "saturated" was the best I could do on the spot
@@Tactical_Turtwig fair enough
How do you learn about this kind of colour theory? Book recommendations?
As an art/color theory nerd this is correct... magenta is a v high saturation mid-hue purple (meaning it comes from blue and red)... pink (of any variety) is also often very saturated but is a higher hue high lightness red. It all sounds confusing but understanding hue, value, and saturation will solve your paint matching problems much better than "find the complimentary on the color wheel" technique
as an european, paint ranges are always interesting to hear about from Amarikans because in the case of vallejo and pro acryl, we have the complete opposite.
i have no clue where I can find any pro acryl at all but vallejo, it is everywhere. i think you can find vallejo even more then you can find citadel.
Never heard of pro acryl before This
Alsp AK paints are also Rather common here
I mean, Vallejo is a European company and Pro Acryl (Monument Hobbies) is an American company, so it makes sense.
But yeah, the Pro Acryl paints are just amazing.
in australia we have alot of vallejo
the fact that euros don't use THE PRO makes watching euro painting tutorials useless
@@davet.5493 i dont agree
basic color usage is the same regardless of brand
fx highlight color brighter than your base color, works as a rule regardless of color or brand
Hej guys, so happy to hear that you enjoy our Signature Series Dark Bronze! 😁 Together with Ben and Jason from MH we have been developing our Signature Sets for around 1 1/2 years in total until we found the perfect Bronze paibt that no one else offered and is an ideal base for a number of Metals (and stays fresh until the end). Happy having found your Channel, keep up the great work! Liked + Subscribed! 😊
I just wanna say, Berilio (I think I spelled that right) does amazing work on editing and y’all are so full to listen to. Love y’all! (And yes, I am looking for the soda for y’all. No luck yet)
Vallejo Xpress is excellent. Just one glaring issue tho: there's so very few of them. It's not even a quarter of a range.
I hope this changes, Xpress' reception has been very positive.
also, the bottles suck...after you open them they are a mess inside...
It changed!
This video is just convincing me to buy all the pro acryl stuff from my LGS, I've been super happy with what I've used so far
Vallejo Orange Brown is the most underrated paint in the universe. Leather, wood, skin, rocks, rope, paper, NMM gold, it's useful for SO many things
if you want to not die painting things yellow I highly recommend golden so flat yellows. They get basically full coverage in 1 thin coat and on black it just takes 2 or 3 thin coats. they are absolute magic
I just got permanent yellow last week - incredible stuff
Bought a bold titanium white, but then ordered the pro acryl base set so ended up with 2 bottles of the white. Nice to hear that's the opposite of a problem.
G'day guys, hope the flooding can be managed. Love your content!
I started with the absolute minimum amount of paints.
Army Painter:
- Black, White
- Red, Green, Blue
- Metallics Gunmetal, Bronze
- Nuln Oil
All other colours I got by mixing 5 colors I had. First 1000 pts space marine army was painted with those. Then I got Browns, Purples and Technical paints, coz with existing colors it was hard to get those colors. So another 2000 points of Space Marines were painted.
I recently got into warhammer again for the first time in almost 17 years, and I have been paralyzed with the thought of budgeting for getting going again. I really needed this. Thank you PH
I know right?! I'm in the same boat my friend.
I'm not surprised to see Pro Acryl so much on this list. Monument Hobbies really nailed down the perfect consistency for easy brush/airbrush work with minimal thinning needed, and the price point per paint is very good.
Speedpaint 2.0 has been a godsend for me. I agree that 1.0 was not good at all, but the 2.0 line does contrast much better, and more importantly to me feels a lot easier to work with. I'm fighting it for even coverage a lot less than I do with contrast paints or 1.0. I have an ork army that is mostly contrast, and after getting the 2.0 set and finding good equivalents I've switched over to speedpaints for the rest of my models.
For ork skin, I'm also not a fan of the pale/pastel green. I'm really happy with Striking Scorpion, then 1:1 Frostheart/Medium (Shamrock Green and Magic Blue for SP). I gets you a much more saturated/poppy skin color without giving them Incredible Hulk skin.
I agree too.. Speedpaint 2.0 are great... 1.0 had issues which were just a hassle... I feel like army painter rushed speedpaints 1.0 to the market just to say they had them and then had to go back and refine them...
I've been using a lot of the paints from Reaper Miniatures lately, since I can order paint from them when I order figures and with their triad system, you've got your low, mid and highlight so you don't have to look through everything to find the right colors, plus they're easy to shoot through an airbrush and go on nice and clean with a brush too. That plus Anne Foerster's painting tips and tricks on their youtube channel have helped me improve even more than I'd thought I could, even after having been doing this for over 20 years. I'm just glad we've got so many different paints now, used to be the ONLY options you had were Testor's Enamel paints. Believe me, you don't want to try painting an entire army or a handful of D&D minis with just enamel. It does not end well.
Thank you so much for this helpful and insightful advice. I’m new to the hobby and needed a place to start with paints, I just ordered your recommendations.
I kid you not, I watched this video as I was taking off the seals of my base set of pro acryl paints that just came in the mail, and this video made me feel confident in my purchase
Folkart has decent craft Metallics that thin and mix well. They're great for dry brushing and excellent value for terrain painting.
More than happy to give this video at least one rewatch, as it came on the eve of a big trip to the LGS with a friend, with the goal to split either the Leviathan box, or another wargame box set like SW Legion or LotR. Many thanks to the hosts and the editor for sorting the wheat from the chaff, I will surely need at least half of these paints!
I always watch the youtube videos even after listening to the podcast, and this episode is a prime example of why. Some very good options here - definitely not using it as a shopping list, but there's quite a few that I'll be picking up in the near future.
With today's video drop and the scuttlebutt in the industry, Army Painter seems to have taken your video as a challenge. Even Brent from Goobertown commented on the Fanatic line's coverage. The orange from the range looks to cover well.
Excellent video. I hate it when painters give the ‘it’s whatever works for you’ answer. These paints all rock!
These madlads making me reconsider every paint I’ve ever purchased in one video.
Also, man, they like their airbrushes.
This is one of the best paints recommandations that I’ve saw. No 100% marketing from a partnership with a brand ! As I’m in the move to order my first Pro Acryl, your video will help me a lot to choose. Thanks !
On the subject of black and white you guys are correct. There are also 2 alternatives to these magical paints. Ak interactive black can go complete pound for pound with VMC black. Also Duncan's Two thin coats white star is the best option if you can't get bold titanium white.
Excellent video! I’m just getting started with actually painting as a first time hobbyist, and I may add a few of these to the shelf. Thanks❤️
Vallejo PREMIUM Airbrush Color (62.052) Gunmetal. (60ml is £6.00) This thing is incredible. This range is built for airbrushing things like model cars/boats/planes that are larger. This is a very dark silver, like a really charcoal grey. Its coverage with both brush and airbrush is a dream. I use it as a straight up primer in itself and it is tough as nails. Do you have anything metal you want to paint? Put this bad boy on it... Oh, a Necron army? Boom, this is the undercoat, drybrush your Vallejo Aluminum over it and call them done. If you want to get fancy with light silvers, you can. Its so good, and the cost per ml is excellent
Custodian speaking! And I have THOUGHTS on Gold.
The mixed gold they mentioned from Vince Ventrella video is, unfortunately, irreplaceable. I've looked at literally every gold i could find, both model and art lines, and even experimented with straight up gilding my models in leaf - and the best, most consistent gold there is, is that mix. Second place is gilding - which looks Amazing when it works, and Really Bad when you screw up, and there's no good way to undo mistakes when gilding. Third place is "Pale Gold" from Golden Fluid Acrylics - the generic artist level brand from Michael's in the US. This one's a *little* green and a little pale, so feel free to darken it up with an orange ink. Honorable mention to Sepia Ink over Duraluminum from ProAcryl.
I think people are sleeping hard on gilding. When it works, there's no gold paint that can possibly compare. It's much more vibrant and reflective than any metallic paint is physically capable of being, and the leaf is thin enough that you shouldn't be worried about losing details. I've done whole models and love them, and only elements on models and loved it. It's much more accessible than I think alot of people are imagining, and it's SO FAST: you can get great results in 10 minutes of work, rather than coat after coat of bad coverage from most other paint options. Imitation leaf is perfectly fine - you don't have to break the bank here. I highly, highly recommend it.
The only elements you should be cautious of are elements where you notice the medium (the glue that holds the metal to the model) could pool - narrow valleys, sharp right angles in the model, etc. If it builds up or pools on itself, then it won't behave itself properly when dry. But if you avoid this pittfal, and WAIT the 25-30 minutes it takes for the medium to become workable after it's painted onto the model, you literally can just slap the metal onto the model. Use a cheap brush to press that metal into the crevices and break off the excess. If there are tears or cracks, just lay another sheet on top of them. Bada-bing-bada-boom you're done. it's really that easy.
At first I thought this was a dumb idea for an episode but I’ve found it to be some of the most helpful and evergreen content you’ve made!
The biggest thing for me, regarding the total price of all the paints, that a new person should keep in mind is that you don't need to buy every single paint at once. Buy it as you need it. I made almost monthly trips to a local store to get new colours and something cheap to paint with it (they have pre-primed D&D figures that worked really well for this) over the course of a year before I had everything I felt I needed.
Bold Pyrrole Red is my personal favourite paint. Period. It was my first in the line of Pro Acryl and I've been a fanboy ever since. I love love LOVE that paint!
This video turned me onto Proacryl Bold Titanium White especially since I'm working on White Scars. And At some point I definitely intend to look through Proacryls stuff so I can find a really good setup for my deep blue because I'd love to replace my Kantor Blue method.
One thing i reccemend every painter, is use a notebook to write down the formula for your mixed colors
Well done and well done Berilio, we love you!
Thanks for the video.
I've subscribed to the Venturella method of shading and highlighting and keep a Sunny Skin Tone and a Payne's Gray within arm's reach at all times. Those 2 colors will blend into anything (except black or yellow) and build a complete value gradient.
I bought Vallejo Model Scarlet Red when looking for a red color, and I found that mixing it with the tiniest bit of white actually made a really cool shade of orange. I can't use it for red anymore though, it just looks like dark orange to me.
These are a highlight of my week, so fun to listen to while hobbying
Im glad this is mostly a Pro Acryl appreciation video
I have the full Pro Acryl range (except their metallics) and then I use the Vincy V recipes for metallics (Green Stuff World Gold + Gloss metal varnish, Vallejo Air metal Magnesium and Silver). I do have the new Matt Cexwish bronze and it's really cool! Other than that, Dirty Down Rust is super cool and also Molotow Liquid Chrome is insane.
whenever im feeling lazy and my melee weapons look kinda terrible, i always just slap some blood for the blood god on it and no one will ever know how bad it actually looks
Nah mate, we can tell the difference. Most will ignore it because politeness exists. But trust me we can tell.
@@thehat4244 lol, I guess it’s fine that they look nasty anyway since I don’t imagine khorne daemons or world eaters clean their weapons.
Thanks for the reminder that I don't need to buy literally everything that exists all at once when I haven't even built my first army yet.
I'm just getting into the hobby and have what one might call a bad habit of impulsively latching onto large purchases without considering whether I'll even use everything in said large purchase.
No I can not actually afford such large purchases with my current finances.
It's good to get the reminder every now and then to slow down and actually think for a second "what paints/models/terrain/etc will I actually NEED for my first army" so that I don't end up blowing through my entire savings account before even buying any actual model kits because I spent everything on paints, tools, brushes, airbrushes and other stuff so excessively that I rendered myself unable to afford said model kits.
This is such a good video. I’ve been searching for a source like this for a long time and never found another video that scratched the itch
I love how Vallejo's Blue-Green is a better Turquoise than their own Turquoise!
I just tried Vallejo Metal Colour Dark Aluminium on your recommendation and thank you. THANK YOU! THANK YOU SO MUCH! FINALLY A SILVER THAT COVERS! IT'S SO GOOD!
Aethermatic Blue is a great contrast if you need to have something glowing but not glowing green...like the coils on a plasma gun
For Runelord Brass, I actually think Scale75’s Moonstone Alchemy is a very solid substitute, mainly because it doesn’t separate like curdled milk if you leave it alone for 5 minutes. It’s just a little thicker than Runelord.
Also, Army Painter Speedpaints are a top tier option and don’t let anybody tell you otherwise.
i also really like their D&D paintsets they have great value
Thanks for making this one, ive only just started collecting minis and with this months pay check im looking to get the paint. Been following and watching you guys for soo long and I'm buzzing you guys have made it this far 50K woo!🎉
The army painter has a "bright gold" that is GOLD. I LOVE that paint. I've gotten people who are going to art school for painting to start using that color for their gold.
Pro Acryl, holy crap its sooooooo good.
I am shocked that there isn't more AK stuff in here. honestly you guys should really use some more of their paints. I loved using luminous orange for my necrons orange glow on their guns and eyes.
As someone who has an LGS with the Two Thin Coats line I've picked up a bunch. They're all really good so far and I would definitely recommend swapping them for GW equivalents but I don't have many in Vallejo or Pro Acryl to compare to because I mostly bought GW before now (I know, I know). The dark purple is fantastic for my tyranids, and the greens and blacks are very good. I like their lighter reds a lot too. The Rakarth Flesh equivalent is fine, but since I'm painting a lot of flesh right now I'm blowing through it. Their metallics are also pretty good as well, I've used a few and they all cover well and look good
the end of the video made me appreciate the selection at my LGS. able to find every brand mentioned in the city easily.
I’m a new convert of ProAcryl, my flgs just became an official carrier for Monument and I’ve already bought half the range.
Thanks for the Gold mix. Definitely going to try that.
Going to try out that Pro Acryl White and Royal Purple!
I have loved vallejo and speed paints the most so far. Gw is okay but god forbid any white they have.
my fav paint ever is Khorne Red, it has amazing coverage and looks great
I mostly don't use GW paints any more but Khorne Red is a go to, along with Rhinox Hide.
@@chetmanley1885 Rhinox Hiiiiiiiide 🤝
Pro Acryl is such a phenomenal brand, I'm fortunate in that I live in Phoenix where their headquarters are and thus supply is never an issue, but even then, it is hands down the best paint I've used for minis
I am so happy my lgs suddenly started selling Vallejo out of nowhere. Previous source of anything other than GW paints closed just before Covid hit.
The best gold I’ve used is Vallejo Liquid Gold. Red Gold specifically. It’s not Acrylic, so it can’t be on the list, but it covers beautifully, can be thinned with Isopropyl, can be drybrushed, and usually only requires a single coat.
I started using Stewart semple/culture hustle neon pigments added to neons to make neons more manageable.
AZ flex here, but Pro Acryl/Monument Hobbies is local to the Phoenix area. You can actually place an order with them for free pickup if you dont live close to the handful of LGS's that stock it.
I got a set of Reaper miniatures paint set and they work fine.
I like Apple Barrel Pavement. I use mostly white or light gray primer so this gray made a great undercoat to make it black enough to know while not darkening the detail out. A good craft paint is great for large areas base is fine.
A good mother of pearl matelic. Mostly just a white matelic paint. It just has a nice edge high like for a blade.
For gold. I use silver paints with all the shading and layers. Then a yellow contrast paint on top.
Thanks for the white recommendation. I don't know why I never tried Pro Acryl bold titanium, but now I can't use another. Also, you really should try the Army Painter Fanatics. There is some good stuff in there.
Yellow paint: Gamblin’s Cadmium yellow oil paint. It is toxic. It takes forever to dry. It actually covers and doesn’t bleed other Color up from underneath without 5 layers unlike every other yellow I’ve ever tried.
Lol, I was taking notes as this was a shopping list. I´m starting with the hobby and have some Vallejo paints already but I want to expand the colors so I don't have to mix so much. Hence, I think I will give a chance to the pro-Acryl starting set [it had many of the recommended colors and is like $100 per 24 great quality paint] and save to get the Metal Engine set from Vallejo in the future.
For gold there is a good ready to use paint. Vallejo Liquid Gold Gold line is great with only a single potential problem being that it is an alcohol based acrylic.
Really surprised ice yellow by vallejo didn't get a mention, such an amazing paint for any highlighting and others. Amazing. 😊
I'm really liking the ProAcryl artist signature series paints. I still need to dig into the two new sets, they only recently arrived and i haven't had a chance to work with them yet. +1 to Talassar Blue from the GW contrast lineup.
Have you guys worked south Two Thin Coats paint yet? I'm liking them as a cheaper alternative to the main GW line. Each color already comes as a triad of dark, medium, light versions to take stone off the guesswork out.
A good brown leather I found is with the a green primer with with zealot yellow from army paint and dark wood. However, it is a oil paint.
Dude I was literally a week away from needing to do research on what paints a starter needs, thank you!
Proacryl's Bronze is my favorite metalic paint of all time. And I do amazing work with it. And now I have Dark Bronze, Bronze and Light bronze is just incredible.
Can't say I've been in a hurry to transition into ProAcryl but I have to say the four signature sets are full of colours (uk) I've always dreamed of having
Y'know, a long time ago in Covid times I bought some Eldar online really wanting to get into the hobby (again, I did as a kid but that's like over a decade ago), but I just ended up having real problems getting the paint I wanted (pink) and by the time I did, my energy to paint and get into the hobby had faded for whatever reason. I'm pretty sure my starter kit of paints all dried up or died, maybe I gave them away, I can't remember but I can't find them so the few times I did get the urge to go back to giving the hobby a try I never did. But this list actually has inspired me to maybe look at getting 3 or so basic paints, see how I go with doing up the basic looks of my Eldar, see how I feel about it. This is a really nice basic resource to just be like "Hey, so this pink is good, this white is good, this light blue is good, okay I have a base colour scheme to work with."
Golden High Flow's Pyrrole Orange... Makes sense, given just how potent Pyrrole pigments are. They're lovely pigments.
Really tight editing ❤ with a list like this it couldve easily been boring at some point. Kudos to y'all 🎉
Can you guys do an update on best sets to buy? Kind of a pain in the ass to load up individual paints
14:38 I was looking for a redish fur for some classic stonehorn paintjobs to make them how they look in Total War, looking forward to trying it out.
Scalecolor Navy Blue is perfect for Crimson Fists. So good.
For Orange, I tend to use Reaper Orange Brown as a base for brighter oranges, because like mentioned in the video, orange over anything else sucks. Reaper Orange Brown goes over most other colors pretty decently.
Great video, just in time as im just starting to get into painting minis
The Citadel Chaos Black spraycan primer is actually really nice and I would absolutely recommend for newbies. It's very forgiving, the wet paint just seems to flow and minimize. It's the opposite of skme white spraycan that is incredibly temperamental and easy to cake on.
I agree it is good for a spray primer and for a newbie its great and very forgiving..
I've been painting my Death Korps models' packs and straps with Vallejo's flat earth to give it more of a light leather/deerskin look. Once it gets shaded with agrax earthshade, you end up with (imo) a great looking leather that isn't a reddish brown.
Neat! 😊
I’m heading to Monument Hobbies on Friday and can’t wait to see their store!
I use army painter speed paints. I think they're great. I've been painting almost 30 years, I prefer the hue of these to contrast.
Yeah, their argument about AP fixing their paints being a bad thing is hilarious
@Deus888 I'm starting to think these guys are just lazy neckbeards.
As soon as the game changes the competitive community bitching because they have to think is hilarious too.
My gold solution works really well for trim. Gundam acrylic paint marker gold. Super simple, it's in a marker with it's own applicator and it looks great. It's not metallic per say but has a nice sheen to it. It's a little bright for Warhammer but that's part of why I use it. Stands out on the table compared to other golds
Pro Acryl Bold Titanium White is hard to even find in stock when it is carried, and it sounds like we now know why ;)
Thank you for giving me a reason to not hate my Magos purple contrast.
Before starting the video. Ak 3rd gen and Vallejo acrilics are the best paints. All of their colours act similarly, Most of the 3rd gen acrilics cover in two thin coats (even the pastel colours)
For colours I'd say: Black, White, The colours of your army/you like the most (pick around 5 at most because you can have the darker and paller versions with black and white), one or two metalics (a medium silver and a gold are always nice), one dark brown wash like agrax earthshade or the one from vallejo game colours (because its more versatile than a black wash). Matt and gloss varnish (I recommend the big bottles from vallejo premium airbrush sets) and a cheap can primer (black imo because the details that you cant reach with a brush wont be noticeable)
Note, If you're painting like a space marine or a stormtrooper with white armour, pick a white or light gray primer.
Strong picks. If avaible the AK starter set is one of the strongest on the market, it has the one of the widest, least redundant color ranges, for a reasonable price.
This is my favorite podcast u guys have done
new speedpaint 2.0 is really good, the old 1.0 can be really good for blending and what not as the reativation means you can essentially wetblend on a dry model but personally i prefer the 2.0