I bought the same exact butcher block from Home Depot, and had no idea what the best products, finish, and process was. Not only did you show me all that, but it was also on a slab very similar to mine. Now I know the exact stain and finish I want on the table knowing yours turned out amazing! thank you for this video, it really saved me a ton of work and possible regret with my choice is stain.
20+ year painter here...its best to apply a sanding sealer before the poly goes on. I would stain, sanding sealer, sand, wipe down then apply my poly coats. The finish on the poly will end up better and require less coating.
I think this is what I’m going through right now. My Havea is very porous in certain areas. After applying a couple coats of poly, it looks like it’s being soaked up by the pores and it’s coming out uneven when you look at it in the light. I’ll probably just keep applying layers on the B side until it comes out even, but Im definitely going to give sanding sealer a try when I do the A side.
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
hi there! This is awesome - thank you so much for putting this together. Do you bother sealing / staining / treating the underside, or can you just leave it raw?
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave it raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
No you do not. The third coat of poly is your final coat, and no more sanding is necessary. I’m glad you found my video helpful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great instructional video, I'm trying to do the same thing with the same brand of wood actually. Only dumb question is how did you flip it with all the coating? Noticed some cardboard so it doesn't smudge the board but will it 'ruin' the coating? Thanks so much !
I’m glad you liked the video! I used these little nifty things called “painter’s pyramids”. They’re fairly cheap and help me cut down waiting time in half, because you can flip the block over even if it’s not dry yet. You can Google it and see how they work. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact. Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often. I hope that helps. Thank you for watching! 😎👍
I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
Great video! How long after finishing the butcher block did you attach the standing desk frame? I’m planning on doing this myself and am unsure how long I should let the block cure. Thank you!
@@SQKro Thanks for the kind words! I believe I waited at least 24-48 hours to allow the finally coat of poly dry before I mounted the desk frame. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Did you end up staining both sides or you just finished both sides but stained one side only? I tried reading through all the comments so I apologize if this has been asked before
This is perfect! Just bought a house with an unfinished butcher block island in the kitchen. This is perfect, with all the steps for staining and finishing. Thank you so much!
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome! Thank you for this. I’m doing the same exact thing, except I used Havea wood, I kind of wish I bought a hardwood like acacia or birch because mine does look a little blotchy, even with conditioner..but you live and learn. My company paid for the block and I paid for the legs so whatever🤷🏼♂️
I finished both the top and bottom surfaces of the butcher block. I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I can’t find any food safe polyurethane, but I want to make my butcher block counter tops shiny like that, do you know if it’s food safe once fully cured?
According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact. Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often. I hope that helps. Thank you for watching! 😎👍
When you apply to stain, do you do both sides at the same time and then wait 2 hours for it to dry? Or do you do one side, wait two hours, then the other?
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I’m glad my video helped you! I’d love to see how your project turned out. Would you be willing to share some pictures? You can email them to: ibjanky@yahoo.com Thank you and God bless! 🙏🏼
Just bought the same exact butcher block. Thanks so much for the video. Do you also stain and seal both sides as well? Im using this as a counter top for my laundry room and nobody will see the botton
So sorry, I literally just hears you say that you do both sides after I clicked submit comment lol. I should probably watch the entire video before commenting next time
@@str8kronic It's a personal choice whether or not you want to stain and seal both sides. I personally did both sides, but for your particular situation, I don't think it's necessary. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project! 👍
Awesome video! Gonna use a lot of what you did on my own butcher block. Question tho, how did you do the bottom side of the wood? Did you just flip the wood while it was still drying or do you go through the whole process on one side and then the next day do the other side?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
This is the butcher block I bought: www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771 It’s acacia wood, and they also sell them in pre-stained colors. I picked the natural color since I wanted to stain it myself. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. You just repeat this process until you’ve applied however many coats of stain or poly you need. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Thanks for watching! I got the Sparrow Peak Acacia 72”x30” Here’s the link to the one I got: www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
I used these things called painters pyramids/tripods. They’re pretty inexpensive, and you can buy them from Home Depot or Amazon. They saved me a lot of time because they allowed me to work on one side while the other side would dry. Since the butcher block was pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. So if you’re going to work on both sides, start with the bottom side first. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I used the exact same polyurethane for my 8ft office desk. I had to re sand it today. I had white spots everywhere from cup condensation. Use a coaster don’t make the same mistake I did.
when you applied the poly, did you do all the coats on the top and edges, then flip it and do the same amount of coats on the underside? or did you do a coat on the top and edges, wait for it to dry, then flip it and do a coat on the underside? if that makes any sense
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky i appreciate the detailed response. i ordered a block from lowe’s similar to yours, and if it’s not damaged like the last one i should be able to start working on it tonight. when you attached the legs into the top, did you drill pilot holes or did you just drill them directly in. thanks again!
@@sunfade It’s completely optional, but I drilled small pilot holes before installing the legs. I found that it made it easier screwing them in. Hope that helps, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave the bottom part raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave the bottom part raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! Noob here I just bought a Espresso sparrow peak from lowes as well but it's says it's stained already from the description. Is it ok to just apply a finisher or should I sand it first?
Ok I have never done anything like this at all. We are putting in kitchen cabinets and butcher block countertops. I have a couple questions. 1. Do I need to use like a food grade poly? 2. Is 3 coats enough for a kitchen counter? 3. How do I know which way the wood grain is? 4. How do I know what side should be the top or bottom?? 5. Will following these steps make it rather smooth?? I don’t want a bumpy counter. We are trying to save as much as possible and your video was awesome. I have three sections to do so fingers crossed I do a good job. lol. Thank you so much for showing this!
1. According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact. Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often. 2. Yes, 3 coats is enough for a kitchen counter. Just make sure the existing coat is dry before applying another coat. 3. You can use your fingernail against the wood to determine the direction of the grain, if your nail catches, you know that you are moving against the grain. 4. It doesn't matter which side you pick. Wood is wood on either side. You get to decide which side you would like to be the top or bottom. 5. The butcher blocks sold at Home Depot or Lowes are pretty smooth already, they aren't bumpy at all. A light sanding makes it even smoother. I hope that helps. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky Helps a lot.. thank you so much. I just ordered my butcher block from Lowe's, hopefully it comes in 1 piece and not damaged. planning to stain and poly next weekend. Getting Flex spot E7 plus as a stand. Your video gave me confidence proceed with the project.
Another great video. Props to you iBJanky I utilized this video in staining my butcher block with just a slightly different approach. I decided to go with a oil based stain and finish by Min-wax, the stain Provincial 211 and their Poly Warm Satin. There is a longer wait time when using the oil based product which is well worth the wait in my opinion. I did opt out of the pre-stain and used water instead which is a process called "grain raising or water popping". Since acacia wood is a hard wood this process works great and can save a couple dollars but its all about preference. Bjanky Im convinced the video does no justice on how the butcher block looks in person. Mine came out greeeeat thanks to you laying down a great foundation in this video.... THANKS BROHAM!
I got a butch block counter top from Floor and Decor. Got everything sanded ready for conditioning. Looking at the stain conditioner I bought, exact same as in the video, it states on the can. "NOTE: Varathane Oil-based Wood Conditioner is not recoomended for use with water-based stains." Does this matter?
You can use water-based stain over oil-based conditioner with no problems. Always wipe the conditioner down so none lays on the surface, and make sure the surface has completely dried (about 2 hrs in 65° should do it). Also, a light sanding helps break the pores open some. Hope this helps! 😎👍🏼
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I am actually ready to start my project and went looking for a video just like this; it's really well done! For each step shown, did you then flip it over and do the same process? I presume that you did, but am interested to know if you protected the finished surface while you were working on the other side. Also, how did you control excess stain or poly from pooling on the underside around the edges? sometimes you don't see that kind of problem until you flip it and its all dried.
Yes, I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps 🙂
You should not use Poly for a PC desk, as it will be with skin contact. Oils from skin break the poly and it becomes gummy. I have had personal experience with a keyboard hand rest I made out of walnut. Real Tung Oil is the way to go, however the process can be far, far longer than just using poly.
Great video! I have used it as a reference while staining two butcher block counter for a his and hers desk. Did you sand again after the third coat of poly?
That’s completely up to you. Some people don’t care that the underside is unfinished since they won’t be seeing it anyway. For me personally, I prefer to have all sides finished. I hope that helps, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great video. I purchased the espresso color butcher block from Lowes and I want to maintain the color. Should I skip the staining part and proceed with the process as it is shown on the video?
I just did my floors in this exact process and looking to do my butcher block counters in my kitchen the same way. Do I need to worry about chemicals these products may give off??
Hey man im thinking of gettign an acacia block myself, how has the top been holding up to writing and stuff like that. Just want to make sure its hard enough
As a wood worker, you’d did a pretty good job. Personally, I don’t like mixing oil and water based. Sometimes, depending on your temperature or humidity, the oil based products can take longer to fully dry. Just my preference though. Also, after the very last coat of finish I do on any project, I take a small piece of brown paper from a bag or whatever you have, and rub down the surface. It knocks off all the little tiny nibs and gives you a great feeling finish.
From what I’ve read online the poly should take about a full month before it’s fully cured. A lot of people say using it lightly before then is fine, but to not leave anything heavy on it for extended periods or else the finish might be damaged. Was this your experience? Did you wait a full month before using it as a desk?
That was a fantastic instructional video. I Reeeaallllyyy like the way you explained how to apply and when to apply all the items. It also helps a lot when you show what each item is. Your videos are very clear and well put together. This project is going to look great once completed. Btw I love those green teas from Costco. Your neighborhood looks so nice and clean. Great job and keep up the fantastic work. Looking forward to the next one.
Here’s one I found: Rubberwood 72-in x 30-in x 1.25-in Unfinished Natural Straight Butcher Block Rubberwood Countertop www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Rubberwood-1-1-4-in-Thick-Butcher-Block/5001523807
What is the finally finish like when you touch it? I want this but it needs to be perfectly smooth so I can use pens and pencils on paper with it. If it isn’t smooth it’s gonna drive me insane. Like if there is brush marks or something
Great video, I plan to follow exactly what you did. I saw from other comments that you flipped the block to do sides. Did you wait for one side to completely dry before flipping it? If not, wouldn't your hands mess up the stain you just applied when flipping the block over? I know you put the block on those little pyramids, but I'm thinking more of your hands smearing/smudging the stain that was just applied.
I don’t stain the edges until I’ve flipped over the block. That way I have something to grab onto as I flip it over. Once I flip it over, I stain the other side and the edges. I hope this helps! 😎👍🏼
Hey, I'm following your exact build but I have a question. Is it necessary to sand, condition and stain the underside? I'm trying to do this as fast as possible, just figured it would be easier and quicker If I just polly'd the underside to seal it instead.
Good question, James. No, you don’t have to stain or condition the underside. The minimum I would do is just to quickly sand it before applying the poly. Hope this helps! 😎👍🏼
how did you handle flipping the block? im following your guide and curious if you let it it dry before flipping and doing the other side? or flipped it while it was still wet? thanks!
I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
@@iBJankythank you for the quick reply! How many of the painters pyramids did you use? Just one in each corner? Looking at doing my 8ft block tomorrow (:
@@Slabsymcslabserson If I remember correctly, I used at least 6 pyramids. One on each corner, and two on each side of the middle. You can probably use 8 pyramids since your block is pretty big.
It’s out of stock at the moment, but here is the link for the one I bought: Acacia 72-in x 30-in x 1.5-in Natural Color Straight Butcher Block Acacia Countertop www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
Hi , it looks great and the details you put on was very useful . Thank you . I have a question - if I had to change the stain color in the middle of the process like after 2 coats of stain color. Can I change it with re-sanding and repeating the process . Will it work .
The color will not change very much unless you started out with a light colored stain and put a dark colored stain on top of it. You can go darker, but you can’t go lighter without starting over.
Great video man, I’m currently working on my kitchen countertops and I’m doing butcher blocks I only missed one step and that’s the wood conditioner, do you think that will affect the durability of the countertops?
Great results. You Americans are way too lucky to have all these products available. In Europe we have nothing other than cheap non brand ''garbage''. Practicing wood work is so stressful for us
I just purchased an unfinished butcher block for a new desk. This video seems like it will be a great tool. However, I’m wondering whether you stained the bottom and flipped it over immediately or if you waited and repeated the process on the other side?
I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
Hey Janky! Your video was extremely informative, thank you! Unfortunately, I accidentally purchased and oil based poly instead of water. Do you think I will see a noticeable difference or am i good to go?
I followed this video and the desk came out great! I had a question: if we seal this with the polyurethane finish, do we need to apply any oil/conditioner periodically to care for the desk? If so, how often? Otherwise, any needed care tips or just basic cleanliness? Thank you!
You can just use some basic furniture polish like Pledge to keep it looking good. You can use it as often as you’d like, it won’t really hurt the finish. That’s basically it, and it should last you for many, many years. I’d love to see you’re finished project. Would you be willing to send me some pictures? You can email them to: ibjanky@yahoo.com Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
This is an awesome tutorial, had a few questions as I just started applying poly to my butcher's block atm: 1. Was your tabletop entirely smooth to touch in the end? I can still feel the 'grains' on my surface - similar to what you see at 11:57 (the small black lines scattered throughout the table). This was even after sanding it with 220 grit + wood conditioner + staining 2. Did the wood stain smell linger even after you turned it into a desk? If so how did you end up addressing it?
1. My tabletop was pretty smooth, but of course I can still feel the small ridges and natural grains of the wood. I did not have to get the wood smooth as glass. 2. The wood stain lingered for a few days, then it fades away eventually. You don’t have to do anything, it will go away on its own after some time. Thanks for watching my video! 🙏🏼
Some types of wood, the soft and porous types, have a different wood density which causes the wood to absorb stain inconsistently. Some areas may absorb a lot of stain while others absorb very little. Because of this, the finished stained board may appear blotchy, not giving you a smooth, even finish. A wood conditioner is not necessary, but it helps even out the application of the stain by filling in the pores of the wood to help prevent the stain from absorbing in some areas. Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
@@noroomforgloom video went up on my channel yesterday. Not quite as detailed as this one but this video was extremely helpful in my process. I’m very happy with results. Thanks again!!
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain… I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed. I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky awesome thanks! It all makes sense. Just one question, so you applied one coat to the bottom, waited 2 hrs applied 2 coat and then did the flip to apply 2 coats on the top? Or... you applied one coat on bottom, filled immediately, applied one coat on top, flipped again, applied 2nd coat on bottom, flipped again, applied 2nd coat on top?
@@m.m.land_YT I applied one coat to the bottom, flipped it immediately, then applied one coat to the top. I then waited for about two hours to allow both sides to dry simultaneously. After both sides had dried, I took the pyramids out and repeated the process again, starting with the bottom side first.
Great video and your desk looks awesome, just an FYI but I think luck, brand, quality come into play regarding sanding/finishing of butcher block. I went over mine with 220 for a couple hours making it so smooth it would not catch the micro fiber cloth at all (like glass) but after staining I got odd swirls, dots, and stripes were the stain did not take. assuming its oil and/or adhesives from the manufacturing process. Will need to attack it with a belt sander hopefully getting that stuff off then sand perfectly smooth again and hope the oils/contaminates are not soaked in more than the sander can remove. The brand I bought is
Love the video. Going to follow to the T. Quick question, did you ever decide to round the edges? Was planning on buying one of these but hesitant cause the edges are not rounded.
Thanks for liking my video. To answer your question… I left the edges the way they were. I did not feel the need the round the edges, just as a personal preference. Obviously, if you wanted to round them out, that would be totally doable, and it wouldn’t be that hard to do it. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! I’m doing the exact same thing while following your video. One question though, how did you flip the top when you applied the poly? Wouldn’t it still be wet when you flipped it.
I used these nifty little things called painter’s pyramids. It cuts the waiting time in half, since you can flip the block and start working on the other side without waiting for it to dry. They’re very inexpensive, and very well worth it. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
We bought a used butcher block table top. We sanded it down to remove existing materials because we wanted to stain it darker. When we apply the stain, there are blotches that will not take the color. It works beautifully elsewhere though. We have tried applying more stain to those areas that refuse to take the color and we have tried sanding it all down again. We have not used a wood conditioner though. Is that the key to getting the stain to apply everywhere? This has been such a frustrating project for us.
@@janellecook488 Sorry to hear that. Since it’s a used butcher block, nobody knows what the previous owner did. You can try sanding it down and applying wood conditioner, but even that isn’t guaranteed to work. Good luck.
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface. After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly. I hope that helps 🙂
Amazing video! Had the same idea with a butchers block standing desk and was going to leave the block unfinished until I came across your video. Hope you don’t mind, I copied the stain step by step😂 looks AMAZING!!
No need to sand the final coat of poly. Once you’ve applied that, just wait 24 hours for it to dry, and you can start using it. I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I bought the same exact butcher block from Home Depot, and had no idea what the best products, finish, and process was. Not only did you show me all that, but it was also on a slab very similar to mine. Now I know the exact stain and finish I want on the table knowing yours turned out amazing! thank you for this video, it really saved me a ton of work and possible regret with my choice is stain.
I’m glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
20+ year painter here...its best to apply a sanding sealer before the poly goes on. I would stain, sanding sealer, sand, wipe down then apply my poly coats. The finish on the poly will end up better and require less coating.
Thanks for the suggestion! I’ll keep that in mind for next time 😎👍🏼
What do I sand with and which grit?
I think this is what I’m going through right now. My Havea is very porous in certain areas. After applying a couple coats of poly, it looks like it’s being soaked up by the pores and it’s coming out uneven when you look at it in the light. I’ll probably just keep applying layers on the B side until it comes out even, but Im definitely going to give sanding sealer a try when I do the A side.
This is a pretty solid little workbench. While once you figure out how it comes together, it is physically Easy to assemble ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh by yourself. But the diagrams explaining the steps are really pretty bad. I could not get the handle pins in all the way despite multiple attempts, so I just used a screw I had on hand for the 2nd handle. I could not get the first pin in further or pull it back out. You are supposed to hammer it in, but I had no leverage and the handle is plastic and I did not want to risk breaking it. I will get a lot of use out of the bench because of the convenient size and height. It does fold up nicely for storage. They even explain how to fold it so you don't get pinched...that is important!
Thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
hi there! This is awesome - thank you so much for putting this together. Do you bother sealing / staining / treating the underside, or can you just leave it raw?
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave it raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Do you sand after the 3rd coat of poly as well? Or just after the first 2. Great video!
No you do not. The third coat of poly is your final coat, and no more sanding is necessary.
I’m glad you found my video helpful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great instructional video, I'm trying to do the same thing with the same brand of wood actually. Only dumb question is how did you flip it with all the coating? Noticed some cardboard so it doesn't smudge the board but will it 'ruin' the coating?
Thanks so much !
I’m glad you liked the video!
I used these little nifty things called “painter’s pyramids”. They’re fairly cheap and help me cut down waiting time in half, because you can flip the block over even if it’s not dry yet. You can Google it and see how they work.
Thanks for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
Is this finish food grade? I'd like to do it to my Vadholma Ikea Island butchers block.
According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact.
Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often.
I hope that helps. Thank you for watching! 😎👍
Janky, how's the desk holding up today?
It’s been absolutely great! I use it daily. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Video is gold. Was like watching Bob Ross stain a piece of wood.
Haha, I’m glad you liked the video 😅
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Did you stained both sides at the same time or did you wait till one side dried first?
I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
Great video! How long after finishing the butcher block did you attach the standing desk frame? I’m planning on doing this myself and am unsure how long I should let the block cure. Thank you!
@@SQKro Thanks for the kind words! I believe I waited at least 24-48 hours to allow the finally coat of poly dry before I mounted the desk frame.
Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Did you end up staining both sides or you just finished both sides but stained one side only? I tried reading through all the comments so I apologize if this has been asked before
No worries. I stained and finished both sides of the butcher block.
@@iBJanky Thanks so much for the reply! I'm a few years late but wow your final set up looks amazing!
@@AO-xt5jz No problem. I appreciate the kind words, and thanks for watching! 🙌
This is perfect! Just bought a house with an unfinished butcher block island in the kitchen. This is perfect, with all the steps for staining and finishing. Thank you so much!
You’re welcome! Good luck with your project. Just take your time and it’ll turn out great! Thanks for watching 😎👍🏼
at least you get to pick how you want it
When do you turn over the butcher block do stain the other side? Do you flip after each coat? Or after you finish all 3 coats then flip?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome! Thank you for this. I’m doing the same exact thing, except I used Havea wood, I kind of wish I bought a hardwood like acacia or birch because mine does look a little blotchy, even with conditioner..but you live and learn. My company paid for the block and I paid for the legs so whatever🤷🏼♂️
I hope you enjoy your new desk for many years to come! Thanks for watching! 🙌🏼
Thanks for the video! I feel confident in doing a similar project now!
Thanks for watching, and good luck on your future project! 😎👍🏼
Did you use the finish on the top and bottom of the countertop are did you just finish the top?
I finished both the top and bottom surfaces of the butcher block.
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I can’t find any food safe polyurethane, but I want to make my butcher block counter tops shiny like that, do you know if it’s food safe once fully cured?
According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact.
Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often.
I hope that helps. Thank you for watching! 😎👍
Awesome video. What did you use to prop the desk board up on your work table whilst you were prepping and staining?
I used these things called ‘painter’s pyramids’
They allowed me to work on both sides of the desk without waiting for one side to dry first.
When you apply to stain, do you do both sides at the same time and then wait 2 hours for it to dry? Or do you do one side, wait two hours, then the other?
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I followed this to the t and am incredibly impressed. Thank you!!!
I’m glad my video was able to help you out! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I followed your instructions and products. Turned out perfect. Wow! Thanks so much.
I’m glad my video helped you!
I’d love to see how your project turned out. Would you be willing to share some pictures? You can email them to: ibjanky@yahoo.com
Thank you and God bless! 🙏🏼
Just bought the same exact butcher block. Thanks so much for the video. Do you also stain and seal both sides as well? Im using this as a counter top for my laundry room and nobody will see the botton
So sorry, I literally just hears you say that you do both sides after I clicked submit comment lol. I should probably watch the entire video before commenting next time
@@str8kronic It's a personal choice whether or not you want to stain and seal both sides. I personally did both sides, but for your particular situation, I don't think it's necessary. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project! 👍
@@iBJanky thanks for the reply
@@str8kronic You’re welcome! Let me know how it turns out 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! Gonna use a lot of what you did on my own butcher block. Question tho, how did you do the bottom side of the wood? Did you just flip the wood while it was still drying or do you go through the whole process on one side and then the next day do the other side?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
So glad you asked this because I was wondering the same thing too!
@@jasonvictor1798 I hope I was able to help! 😇
What did you put in between the table and the butcher block during the drying phase
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great video, very helpful
@@RealJoshBinder I’m glad you found it useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
What kind of wood is this block? Looks great!
This is the butcher block I bought:
www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
It’s acacia wood, and they also sell them in pre-stained colors. I picked the natural color since I wanted to stain it myself.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Is the wood conditioner before the stain optional?
@@Holden-uf7 Yes, it’s completely optional. Hope that helps! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I'm going to get 2 butchers block tops today for my new desk. This color is awesome. Thanks for this video!
Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Am I able to stain both sides in one coat or do I need to do one side then flip then stain
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
You just repeat this process until you’ve applied however many coats of stain or poly you need.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
The store recommended oil based polyurethane
That’ll work too. Just make sure you give it enough time to dry in between coats. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Thanks for the help so far! One last question before I finish up my desk! Do you sand the final coat of poly?
No need to sand the final coat of poly. That’s going to be your finished surface. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Very nice! What kind of butcher block did you use?
Thanks for watching! I got the Sparrow Peak Acacia 72”x30”
Here’s the link to the one I got:
www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
Love the video! Thank you!
Question: did you wait 2 hours and fillip and do the other side and wait another 2 hours? Thanks!
I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
Probably a silly question but what did you use to hold the butcher block up on the opposite side while you worked on both sides?
I used these things called painters pyramids/tripods. They’re pretty inexpensive, and you can buy them from Home Depot or Amazon.
They saved me a lot of time because they allowed me to work on one side while the other side would dry.
Since the butcher block was pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible. So if you’re going to work on both sides, start with the bottom side first.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
How long did you take before flipping it to the other side? Right away after applying the stains and wiping it off?
I used the exact same polyurethane for my 8ft office desk. I had to re sand it today. I had white spots everywhere from cup condensation. Use a coaster don’t make the same mistake I did.
There’s actually a way to remove those white marks, using a warm iron and a damp rag. There should be some UA-cam videos on it.
when you applied the poly, did you do all the coats on the top and edges, then flip it and do the same amount of coats on the underside? or did you do a coat on the top and edges, wait for it to dry, then flip it and do a coat on the underside? if that makes any sense
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky i appreciate the detailed response. i ordered a block from lowe’s similar to yours, and if it’s not damaged like the last one i should be able to start working on it tonight. when you attached the legs into the top, did you drill pilot holes or did you just drill them directly in. thanks again!
@@sunfade It’s completely optional, but I drilled small pilot holes before installing the legs. I found that it made it easier screwing them in. Hope that helps, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
Hey, do you know what type of wood this is? Was it the Sparrow Peak Hevea? Love how it turned out!
i used the Sparrow Peak acacia wood butcher block from Lowe's. Here's the link:
www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
@@iBJankythanks!
did you do both sides of the butcher block or just the top?
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave the bottom part raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Did you stain both sides or just the one side?
It’s personal preference, but I like to treat both sides. Some people choose to leave the bottom part raw/untreated since they figure they won’t be looking at the underside anyway. The choice is up to you.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! Noob here I just bought a Espresso sparrow peak from lowes as well but it's says it's stained already from the description. Is it ok to just apply a finisher or should I sand it first?
You can lightly sand it and apply some poly. Repeat two more times for best results. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky Appreciate it!
@@RamoXZaid You’re welcome!
Both sides meaning the bottom as well？
Yes, I stained and finished both sides (top and bottom).
Ok I have never done anything like this at all. We are putting in kitchen cabinets and butcher block countertops. I have a couple questions.
1. Do I need to use like a food grade poly?
2. Is 3 coats enough for a kitchen counter?
3. How do I know which way the wood grain is?
4. How do I know what side should be the top or bottom??
5. Will following these steps make it rather smooth?? I don’t want a bumpy counter.
We are trying to save as much as possible and your video was awesome. I have three sections to do so fingers crossed I do a good job. lol. Thank you so much for showing this!
1. According to FDA regulations, the typical clear wood finishes that dry to a hard film, including polyurethane, are considered food safe. Wait to use the surface until the finish is completely dried, and clean it before allowing food contact.
Polyurethane is a fine choice to use on a counter, as long as you don't use the counter as a cutting board. If you do cut directly on the polyurethane surface it will be damaged. Mineral oil would be a good finish for a wood counter that is to be used as a cutting board, but you have to renew the mineral oil fairly often.
2. Yes, 3 coats is enough for a kitchen counter. Just make sure the existing coat is dry before applying another coat.
3. You can use your fingernail against the wood to determine the direction of the grain, if your nail catches, you know that you are moving against the grain.
4. It doesn't matter which side you pick. Wood is wood on either side. You get to decide which side you would like to be the top or bottom.
5. The butcher blocks sold at Home Depot or Lowes are pretty smooth already, they aren't bumpy at all. A light sanding makes it even smoother.
I hope that helps. Thank you for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍
How did you paint other side of the butcher block? How long did you wait in between?
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky Helps a lot.. thank you so much. I just ordered my butcher block from Lowe's, hopefully it comes in 1 piece and not damaged. planning to stain and poly next weekend. Getting Flex spot E7 plus as a stand. Your video gave me confidence proceed with the project.
@@naitikgandhi6029 Just take your time, and have fun with it. Let me know how it turns out! 😎👍🏼
Another great video. Props to you iBJanky I utilized this video in staining my butcher block with just a slightly different approach. I decided to go with a oil based stain and finish by Min-wax, the stain Provincial 211 and their Poly Warm Satin. There is a longer wait time when using the oil based product which is well worth the wait in my opinion. I did opt out of the pre-stain and used water instead which is a process called "grain raising or water popping". Since acacia wood is a hard wood this process works great and can save a couple dollars but its all about preference. Bjanky Im convinced the video does no justice on how the butcher block looks in person. Mine came out greeeeat thanks to you laying down a great foundation in this video.... THANKS BROHAM!
That’s great to hear, man! I’m glad my video helped. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
ps.
Do you have any pictures of your finished project?
@@iBJanky I can def send some your way. where should I send them?
@@rudolphmpierre3071 You can send them to:
ibjanky@gmail.com
I got a butch block counter top from Floor and Decor. Got everything sanded ready for conditioning. Looking at the stain conditioner I bought, exact same as in the video, it states on the can. "NOTE: Varathane Oil-based Wood Conditioner is not recoomended for use with water-based stains."
Does this matter?
You can use water-based stain over oil-based conditioner with no problems. Always wipe the conditioner down so none lays on the surface, and make sure the surface has completely dried (about 2 hrs in 65° should do it). Also, a light sanding helps break the pores open some. Hope this helps! 😎👍🏼
When do you flip it to do the other side?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky This helps so much! Thank you.
Butcher block arrived this morning. Can’t wait to start the process.
@@cathyfaulk8365 I’m glad to help. Good luck, and have fun with your project! Let us know how it turns out 😇
I am actually ready to start my project and went looking for a video just like this; it's really well done! For each step shown, did you then flip it over and do the same process? I presume that you did, but am interested to know if you protected the finished surface while you were working on the other side. Also, how did you control excess stain or poly from pooling on the underside around the edges? sometimes you don't see that kind of problem until you flip it and its all dried.
Yes, I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps 🙂
@@iBJanky That is very helpful, I never thought of painters pyramids. Thank you for the details!
@@kaseybballvideo You’re welcome! Good luck with your project and let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
You should not use Poly for a PC desk, as it will be with skin contact. Oils from skin break the poly and it becomes gummy. I have had personal experience with a keyboard hand rest I made out of walnut. Real Tung Oil is the way to go, however the process can be far, far longer than just using poly.
Sorry to hear about your experience. I haven’t had any issues with mine, and I use it on a regular basis.
Great video! I have used it as a reference while staining two butcher block counter for a his and hers desk. Did you sand again after the third coat of poly?
No more sanding after the third coat of poly. That will be the finished coating.
I’m glad you found the video useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
the type/species of wood will make a difference in how the stain/finish takes
If I'm making a table out of one of these should the underside be treated as well like the top side?
That’s completely up to you. Some people don’t care that the underside is unfinished since they won’t be seeing it anyway. For me personally, I prefer to have all sides finished. I hope that helps, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky ok my concern for this is I've heard it can start to crack on the untreated parts of butcher blocks. I'm not sure if that's true or false
@@finding_souvenirs Butcher block countertops are treated and sealed anyway.
Great video. I purchased the espresso color butcher block from Lowes and I want to maintain the color. Should I skip the staining part and proceed with the process as it is shown on the video?
If you’re already happy with the color, then no need to stain it. You can just apply the poly for added protection.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great video! Nice easy, simple instructions!
I’m glad you found it useful! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I just did my floors in this exact process and looking to do my butcher block counters in my kitchen the same way. Do I need to worry about chemicals these products may give off??
Once the poly has completely cured, you’re all set. Nothing else to worry about.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Hey man im thinking of gettign an acacia block myself, how has the top been holding up to writing and stuff like that. Just want to make sure its hard enough
@@clashmasterx3253 I don’t write directly on the surface, as I have one of those desk pads, but it’s been holding up great 🙂
As a wood worker, you’d did a pretty good job. Personally, I don’t like mixing oil and water based. Sometimes, depending on your temperature or humidity, the oil based products can take longer to fully dry. Just my preference though. Also, after the very last coat of finish I do on any project, I take a small piece of brown paper from a bag or whatever you have, and rub down the surface. It knocks off all the little tiny nibs and gives you a great feeling finish.
@@asoggyburger479 Hey thanks man. I appreciate the tips and the kind words. God bless! 🙏🏼
From what I’ve read online the poly should take about a full month before it’s fully cured. A lot of people say using it lightly before then is fine, but to not leave anything heavy on it for extended periods or else the finish might be damaged.
Was this your experience? Did you wait a full month before using it as a desk?
I started using it lightly after 24-28 hours. Then it will be fully cured after another 2 or 3 weeks. I hope this helps! 🙂
What type of wood is the countertop? Thank you.
The particular one I bought was acacia wood. The process is the same regardless of the type of wood you use. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
That was a fantastic instructional video. I Reeeaallllyyy like the way you explained how to apply and when to apply all the items. It also helps a lot when you show what each
item is. Your videos are very clear and well put together. This project is going to look great once completed. Btw I love those green teas from Costco. Your neighborhood looks so nice and clean. Great job and keep up the fantastic work. Looking forward to the next one.
Thanks for being a supporter. I’m glad that you like my videos. Stay tuned for more! 👌🏽
Great video! I can't seem to find the 6ft by 30in at lowes. Do you happen to have a link? All I can find is 72 x 25in. Thanks!
Here’s one I found:
Rubberwood 72-in x 30-in x 1.25-in Unfinished Natural Straight Butcher Block Rubberwood Countertop www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Rubberwood-1-1-4-in-Thick-Butcher-Block/5001523807
If you wanted to not stain the block a different color and keep the natural finish from the factory, would you just jump to applying the polyurethane?
Yes, you can just do the sanding process and jump straight to applying the polyurethane. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
What is the finally finish like when you touch it? I want this but it needs to be perfectly smooth so I can use pens and pencils on paper with it. If it isn’t smooth it’s gonna drive me insane. Like if there is brush marks or something
If you do it correctly, the final finish will be as smooth as a baby’s butt. Hope that helps 😇
Great video, I plan to follow exactly what you did. I saw from other comments that you flipped the block to do sides. Did you wait for one side to completely dry before flipping it? If not, wouldn't your hands mess up the stain you just applied when flipping the block over? I know you put the block on those little pyramids, but I'm thinking more of your hands smearing/smudging the stain that was just applied.
I don’t stain the edges until I’ve flipped over the block. That way I have something to grab onto as I flip it over. Once I flip it over, I stain the other side and the edges. I hope this helps! 😎👍🏼
Hey, I'm following your exact build but I have a question. Is it necessary to sand, condition and stain the underside? I'm trying to do this as fast as possible, just figured it would be easier and quicker If I just polly'd the underside to seal it instead.
Good question, James.
No, you don’t have to stain or condition the underside. The minimum I would do is just to quickly sand it before applying the poly.
Hope this helps! 😎👍🏼
how did you handle flipping the block? im following your guide and curious if you let it it dry before flipping and doing the other side? or flipped it while it was still wet? thanks!
I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
@@iBJankythank you for the quick reply! How many of the painters pyramids did you use? Just one in each corner? Looking at doing my 8ft block tomorrow (:
@@Slabsymcslabserson If I remember correctly, I used at least 6 pyramids. One on each corner, and two on each side of the middle. You can probably use 8 pyramids since your block is pretty big.
@@iBJanky awesome, gonna try it tomorrow, will report back! thanks again!
@@Slabsymcslabserson You're welcome! Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎
Great video! Also you don't sand in between coats of stain?
That’s correct. No sanding needed in between the coats of stain.
Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
Is there a way you can give us a link for the butcher block? I'm afraid to buy the wrong one.
It’s out of stock at the moment, but here is the link for the one I bought:
Acacia 72-in x 30-in x 1.5-in Natural Color Straight Butcher Block Acacia Countertop www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
@@iBJanky Thank you!
@@joshuachavez8490 You’re welcome! 😎👍🏼
Hi , it looks great and the details you put on was very useful . Thank you .
I have a question - if I had to change the stain color in the middle of the process like after 2 coats of stain color. Can I change it with re-sanding and repeating the process . Will it work .
The color will not change very much unless you started out with a light colored stain and put a dark colored stain on top of it. You can go darker, but you can’t go lighter without starting over.
Great video man, I’m currently working on my kitchen countertops and I’m doing butcher blocks I only missed one step and that’s the wood conditioner, do you think that will affect the durability of the countertops?
Not applying the wood conditioner will not affect the durability of the wood. I’m glad you found the video useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Came out nicely
@@mr.nuna916 Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great results. You Americans are way too lucky to have all these products available. In Europe we have nothing other than cheap non brand ''garbage''. Practicing wood work is so stressful for us
I agree. I have been to many parts of the world, and things are much more accessible here in the USA. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I just purchased an unfinished butcher block for a new desk. This video seems like it will be a great tool. However, I’m wondering whether you stained the bottom and flipped it over immediately or if you waited and repeated the process on the other side?
I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
I wonder how this would look with birch wood.
Yours turned out great!😊
I’m sure it would look great as well! Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Hey Janky! Your video was extremely informative, thank you! Unfortunately, I accidentally purchased and oil based poly instead of water. Do you think I will see a noticeable difference or am i good to go?
You’re good to go, man. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
By far the best tutorial on UA-cam!
Thanks so much for the kind words! I really appreciate it! 😎👍🏼
I followed this video and the desk came out great! I had a question: if we seal this with the polyurethane finish, do we need to apply any oil/conditioner periodically to care for the desk? If so, how often? Otherwise, any needed care tips or just basic cleanliness? Thank you!
You can just use some basic furniture polish like Pledge to keep it looking good. You can use it as often as you’d like, it won’t really hurt the finish. That’s basically it, and it should last you for many, many years.
I’d love to see you’re finished project. Would you be willing to send me some pictures? You can email them to: ibjanky@yahoo.com
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
looks nice janky next time put a ogee edge on it with a router looks nice though
Thanks for watching buddy! 😎👍🏼
Appreciate your tutorial. Does the desk top have a strong smell when you brought it inside? Thanks
No, it didn’t have a strong smell. Whatever smell it had went away after a day or so.
I’m glad you found the video useful. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
This is an awesome tutorial, had a few questions as I just started applying poly to my butcher's block atm:
1. Was your tabletop entirely smooth to touch in the end? I can still feel the 'grains' on my surface - similar to what you see at 11:57 (the small black lines scattered throughout the table). This was even after sanding it with 220 grit + wood conditioner + staining
2. Did the wood stain smell linger even after you turned it into a desk? If so how did you end up addressing it?
1. My tabletop was pretty smooth, but of course I can still feel the small ridges and natural grains of the wood. I did not have to get the wood smooth as glass.
2. The wood stain lingered for a few days, then it fades away eventually. You don’t have to do anything, it will go away on its own after some time.
Thanks for watching my video! 🙏🏼
@@iBJanky Good to know - Looking forward to your future videos!
@@jenova993 Thank you! 🙏🏼
I am in the process of doing this, but no one told me about a wood conditioner, what does that do for the wood and is it necessary?
Some types of wood, the soft and porous types, have a different wood density which causes the wood to absorb stain inconsistently. Some areas may absorb a lot of stain while others absorb very little. Because of this, the finished stained board may appear blotchy, not giving you a smooth, even finish.
A wood conditioner is not necessary, but it helps even out the application of the stain by filling in the pores of the wood to help prevent the stain from absorbing in some areas.
Hope that answers your question. Thanks for watching! 🙏🏼
Has anyone here ever worked with hevea wood? Is it easy to work with and takes the stain well?
Awesome video step by step, I’m about to tackle an 8 foot block. I appreciate this!
I appreciate the kind words. Good luck with your project, let us know how it turns out. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Me too.
Id like to see it.
Good luck
@@noroomforgloom video went up on my channel yesterday. Not quite as detailed as this one but this video was extremely helpful in my process. I’m very happy with results. Thanks again!!
@@GothamCenobites I just saw your video and your project turned out great! I'm glad you like the final results. Good job!
@@iBJanky thank you so much!
Do you stain both sides? If so, how long did you wait before flipping it over to do the other side?
Yes, I stained both sides, but I didn’t have to wait at all. Let me explain…
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I just repeated this process until I applied the proper number of coats I needed.
I hope that helps. Anything else, let me know 😎👍🏼
@@iBJanky awesome thanks! It all makes sense. Just one question, so you applied one coat to the bottom, waited 2 hrs applied 2 coat and then did the flip to apply 2 coats on the top?
Or... you applied one coat on bottom, filled immediately, applied one coat on top, flipped again, applied 2nd coat on bottom, flipped again, applied 2nd coat on top?
@@m.m.land_YT I applied one coat to the bottom, flipped it immediately, then applied one coat to the top.
I then waited for about two hours to allow both sides to dry simultaneously.
After both sides had dried, I took the pyramids out and repeated the process again, starting with the bottom side first.
@@iBJanky thanks!
@@m.m.land_YT You’re welcome, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Why did u use water poly and not oil poly? Is there a difference in quality?
Either one will work. I just picked up what they had in stock at the time.
Very good instructional video really liked the entire process enjoy your new computer desk.
I’m glad you liked the video. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Great video and your desk looks awesome, just an FYI but I think luck, brand, quality come into play regarding sanding/finishing of butcher block. I went over mine with 220 for a couple hours making it so smooth it would not catch the micro fiber cloth at all (like glass) but after staining I got odd swirls, dots, and stripes were the stain did not take. assuming its oil and/or adhesives from the manufacturing process. Will need to attack it with a belt sander hopefully getting that stuff off then sand perfectly smooth again and hope the oils/contaminates are not soaked in more than the sander can remove. The brand I bought is
Good luck with your project, and thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Love the video. Going to follow to the T. Quick question, did you ever decide to round the edges? Was planning on buying one of these but hesitant cause the edges are not rounded.
Thanks for liking my video. To answer your question… I left the edges the way they were. I did not feel the need the round the edges, just as a personal preference. Obviously, if you wanted to round them out, that would be totally doable, and it wouldn’t be that hard to do it.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Beautiful job on this. Thanks for sharing!
I really appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
Awesome video! I’m doing the exact same thing while following your video. One question though, how did you flip the top when you applied the poly? Wouldn’t it still be wet when you flipped it.
I used these nifty little things called painter’s pyramids. It cuts the waiting time in half, since you can flip the block and start working on the other side without waiting for it to dry. They’re very inexpensive, and very well worth it. Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
We bought a used butcher block table top. We sanded it down to remove existing materials because we wanted to stain it darker. When we apply the stain, there are blotches that will not take the color. It works beautifully elsewhere though. We have tried applying more stain to those areas that refuse to take the color and we have tried sanding it all down again. We have not used a wood conditioner though. Is that the key to getting the stain to apply everywhere? This has been such a frustrating project for us.
@@janellecook488 Sorry to hear that. Since it’s a used butcher block, nobody knows what the previous owner did. You can try sanding it down and applying wood conditioner, but even that isn’t guaranteed to work. Good luck.
just to confirm. poly coat 1. sand. poly coat 2. sand. poly coat 3. NO sanding
Correct!
When applying the poly on the bottom, how long did you wait until you flipped the table to apply poly on the top/sides?
I started with the bottom side first. I would lay the butcher block top side down on the table, and I used some cardboard to protect its surface.
After working on the bottom side, I would flip it over and use these things called painters pyramids. They allowed me to work on the top side while the bottom side would dry. Since the butcher block it pretty heavy, the painters pyramids made these small indentations on the bottom side, which doesn’t really matter anyway since it’s not visible.
In order to control excess stain or polish, I wouldn’t apply them on the edges until the butcher block was on the painters pyramids, because the pyramids lift the butcher block above the table surface, and you’ll be able to check the underside of the butcher block and wipe off any excess stain/poly.
I hope that helps 🙂
Amazing video! Had the same idea with a butchers block standing desk and was going to leave the block unfinished until I came across your video. Hope you don’t mind, I copied the stain step by step😂 looks AMAZING!!
I’m glad you found my video useful! Do you mind sharing pictures of your finished project? I’d love to see your results.
Thank you so much. Great video. Do we need to sand after final coat of poly?
No need to sand the final coat of poly. Once you’ve applied that, just wait 24 hours for it to dry, and you can start using it.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
I’m currently DIY my kitchen tops with an acacia piece . See how it comes out
Good luck with your project! 😎👍🏼
Whats the name of this butcher block and how much was it ?
This was the butcher block I used:
www.lowes.com/pd/Sparrow-Peak-Acacia-6-ft-x-30-in/5001790771
@iBJanky there over $200 here $264 I believe
@@reggiechestnut When I bought it several years ago, it only cost me $200.
@iBJanky you know what in thinking though online varies from in store sometimes I'm looking on the app
Thank you kind sir.
Have this same top bought on clearance from my local Lowes.
Going to give her the old college try.
Good luck with your project! Let us know how it turns out.
Clear and complete video , I followed this to build my standing desk with Lowes counter top
I’m glad it helped you out. Thanks for watching! 😎👍🏼
If i buy the stained version from lowes, is that going to be good?
Sure, that will work too.