I have to comment for all of us who have a "500." That same idea works on the "500" fence and I have used that as support help when ripping a 4'x8' sheet of plywood in half without extra hands. And, in addition to rear support, the good old "500" has front table extensions too!
Absolutely right. Also, this same idea could incorporate a front support as easily as it does a rear support. I don’t have a 500 in my home shop and I couldn’t recall if the fence holes on the 500 are in the same location as on the 510. I’ll have to check before the mid-week recap.
I said "OH NO" !! His pipe is going to drop on the floor !! Pretty clever idea to put a magnet on the bottom !! Another great video !! I'll be making this fixture also !! Thanks Scott !! You're still THE MAN !!!
Thanks for sharing your wealth of practical knowledge -- it is a real encouragement for someone like myself who has just started to learn how to use all of the Shopsmith equipment I have been fortunate enough to obtain. Cheers!
I love your design and added a slight improvement for my 510. I was ripping angles on heavy pressure treated 8' and 10' 2x4s and wanted support at the end, so I attached one of the table pipes sticking out the end using a couple of electrical conduit brackets (one screw each). Then I used the adjustable leg to hold the end up. Its out the way on the bottom of the board, accommodates any angle and height, and the pipe is easily removed when needed for the tables. Thanks for the video.
Two thumbs down for this video? Really? Wow, that's a 1st. Oh. Scott. Where did you go wrong on this one? Some viewers have such a discerning palate. Oh well. Can't please'em all!
Scott, I know this is an older video but being fairly new to your channel I am working g my way through them as time allows. You mention with thicker stock that you might have to use a stove bolt or such. What about wrapping over the top of the fence for the 520 and using the t-nut slots on the top?
An upgrade idea on your work piece support fixture for the Model 520: Make a wooden box to straddle the fence and put the (ShopSmith) T-nuts in the slot on the backside of the fence. No interference with work pieces thick enough to hit the Bittner knob!
I love how the pipe was back. Oh, the jig was nice, too, I guess. ;) I am frustrated by having to shell out for all these special "T-nuts" to make jigs on the 520, though I am otherwise happy with the system personally (had a lot of issues with the 510, but I recognize that could be because of previous owner misuse or mixing and matching parts). Can't wait for the video on making some kind of substitute for the T-nuts on the cheap.
I imagine a pipe will make its appearance from time to time. I’m thinking about several alternatives for the t-nut, but it’s unfortunate that they are so expensive from Shopsmith. If they were even within 20% of a reasonable price I would be happy to support them, but they are just too pricy.
Add a horizontal piece across the top, sort of a mirror of the workpiece support. Then fasten the T nuts there. No interfering bolt heads on the fence face!
For the 520 fence, and/or the 510 fence. You could add a horizontal board to be flush with the top of the fence; secured to the vertical board on the fence, and use the t-nuts and the "Bittner knobs" in the top t-slot of either fence. For more stability on the 520 fence; you could utilize both top t-slots, and use 3-4 t-nuts with the "Bittner knobs". Just my thoughts. Chad
You are right. For a time I used to sell what I called the "Magnacob", which as the name implies was a corn cob pipe with a magnet imbedded in the bottom. It works great and keeps my lit pipe from dropping onto sawdust on the floor. Scott
I stumbled upon this site because I searched UA-cam for "Shopsmith bandsaw tire replacement" and just subscribed. Obviously, I did this because I am elbow deep in trying to replace the tires on my 90's vintage Mark V. You mentioned that you planned to address this operation in a "future" video. Any idea how far into the future we might be talking? Thanks, and thanks for the great information. Mike
Hey Mike, good to meet you. I have two sets of tires and a couple bandsaws that need new tires, all I need now is the time! I believe it will happen within the next two weeks, if that helps. Scott
@@mikecraw9633 I would guess not. I will install both the Blue Max and the Orange Shopsmith tires, so not only will we see if there is any difference in the installation process but we'll also get to see how each of them perform over time. Scott
great tip for rear support. any tips on adjusting 520 rip fence levers ? they are “spongy” I never know if I’ve pushed them down far enough there’s no discernible stop.
Yes, those are among my least favorite parts of the 520 fence! Have you adjusted the nuts on the rear of the fence? Even though they feel spongy, does it seem that the fence is locked in place? Scott
Yeah I have the same issues. When I think I have the fence parallel to the blade the fence is actually angled in to the blade at the outfield side of the table.
Question. My 520 fence is very difficult to set and lock. once the fence is in place the lower lever can tighten it against the side, but not secure it as it cannot be pushed all the way down., then using the lock lever it takes excessive pressure to set, if I loosen the set bolt it allows the fence to move. ???? There is no in-between. Is there an adjustment for the lower lever, and why is the lock lever so difficult to operate???
There certainly is a sweet spot that you gotta get just right with the nut. My advice is to apply some paced wax or PTFE spray on the cams but try to keep your rails as clean and wax free as possible. It’ll be just minor degrees of tightening or loosening of the nut to get the lock just right. Also, double check to make sure that the pads on the face of the fence head are in good shape. They should also be clean and dust free. Scott
Ok Scott, I have two mark V’s one early 80’s model and on 510 model. I also have a mark VII. My question is upgrading the power head to the power pro set up. What I’m looking at doing is doing a head swap on the 510 to a power pro head. And the keeping on head as a switch head for the mark V when the 25 hours PM needs to be done. Does that sound like a good Idea to you?
That sounds like a good plan to me. I've had a spare headstock under my bench for 20 years, just in case. I haven't needed it, but I have it if I do. Scott
Good morning Scott. In this video you made a passing comment about liking the 510 table system better than the 520. I am thinking about upgrading my 500 so I would be interested in your opinion about the differences in the 510 and 520. Thank you.
Jude, Going from a 500 to a 520 will be as if you were visited by an intelligent alien life form who gave you all of the secrets to the universe! I own both and do prefer the 510, but I will take a 520 over a 500 any day. There’s too much to share here or in a comment so I guess I need to do a video on the topic. Perhaps in a couple weeks. Scott
Could the fixture be slid into the other side of the 520 fence, the support added th the opposing side of the jig. The nuts would be on the outside of the fence but not on the cut side. The rip support table added then to the fixture?
Absolutely! I like the added length for ripping longer stock, but if all you’re looking to do is to have some rear support, you certainly could do that. Additionally, I have made these in the past where that rear support piece extends both left and right of the wooden fence extension. That way, I can use it on either side of the blade and it is also helpful on the drill press. I like the way you think, John. Scott
A little late to the game maybe, but here goes. Mine is about 30". I even made about a temporary 10" L-shaped piece to attach to the far end to help support wider boards 'way out there.'
Do you really prefer the 510 over the 520? I have 3 ShopSMith Mark Vs and have both table systems but at the moment I'm yet to try either as the first thing I do when I buy a machine is take it apart and service it/restore it. I'd think the flexibility of the round tubes on the 510 is probably more versatile but to me the 520 looks way more accurate and precise, perhaps I'm going to find out otherwise? Do you have any footage comparing the both? You are the man for this subject, I can't thank you enough. Learned so much so quickly from your channel.
Have you ever had your 520 fence move when using the fence as a backstop for horizontal drilling? is there a fix beside tightening the fence so much that you can barely push down the tightening levers. i was thinking of using a nail set to dimple the back bar but am afraid to do it so i made a miter guage extension that goes to the fence to keep it from shifting.
Yes, I have. The most effective technique is (and this makes me sound like a smart aleck) is a sharper bit, faster rpms and less pressure. If all that is done and you still get deflection I would clamp a stop block behind the fence. We’ll have to do a deep dive on this. Scott
Scott, I am sure you made the width of your support board fairly narrow for a reason. What was the reason? A wider board would have broadened the support. Were you concerned about bending? By the way, we are almost neighbors. I live down in Pittsboro. I own a Mark 7 Power-Pro system but so far I remain a humble denizen of the very bottom tier of woodworking. I like your videos very much! Keep 'em coming!
Well howdy, neighbor. We’ve been to Jordon Lake many times and have driven right through there. Yes, there is a diminishing return with a wider board. The wider it gets the more it is inclined to cause the fence board to twist and the more it makes the fence though to handle. There have been suggestions to double the fence rail by having it straddle the fence, etc. but this works for me. Play with it. So what sort of woodworking do you want to do? Scott
Makes sense. Good enough is good enough, as they say. I'm going to build one! I'm just a hobby woodworker -- raw beginner, really. Your videos on the Shopsmith are a pleasure. I've been a home inspector in the local area for many years. I know I will have to retire one of these days. I plan to use the PowerPro more and more to make wooden toys, gifts, and simple furniture. Right now, I'm in the middle of a slow outdoor build of one of Jeff Spira's plywood dories to use on Jordan Lake and the Cape Fear River. The PowerPro will come in handy for fitting out the boat. Thanks again, Scott. Please keep up the good work. Maybe one of these days we can 'cross flukes' for a mug of coffee. Happy New Year!
@@ChathamJackTar I have a buddy who is a former Shopsmith store manager (Yes, they once had stores) who left to become a home inspector in Indiana. I imagine you've seen some things... You will find the Shopsmith to be a handy tool and for items like you are planning, it will become like a third hand. Coffee sounds great! Scott
Hey Scott, what was the video you did after the table saw extension and did you answer the question regarding the width of the support board? I just can't find it. Love your video's
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Great idea! I made a mirror image one and mounted it on an extension to support a 24" rip!
I have to comment for all of us who have a "500." That same idea works on the "500" fence and I have used that as support help when ripping a 4'x8' sheet of plywood in half without extra hands. And, in addition to rear support, the good old "500" has front table extensions too!
Absolutely right. Also, this same idea could incorporate a front support as easily as it does a rear support. I don’t have a 500 in my home shop and I couldn’t recall if the fence holes on the 500 are in the same location as on the 510. I’ll have to check before the mid-week recap.
I said "OH NO" !! His pipe is going to drop on the floor !! Pretty clever idea to put a magnet on the bottom !! Another great video !! I'll be making this fixture also !! Thanks Scott !! You're still THE MAN !!!
Check this out, Art: ua-cam.com/video/SFRznyizPPE/v-deo.html
Thanks for sharing your wealth of practical knowledge -- it is a real encouragement for someone like myself who has just started to learn how to use all of the Shopsmith equipment I have been fortunate enough to obtain. Cheers!
Happy to share and glad you are finding it helpful. Scott
I love your design and added a slight improvement for my 510. I was ripping angles on heavy pressure treated 8' and 10' 2x4s and wanted support at the end, so I attached one of the table pipes sticking out the end using a couple of electrical conduit brackets (one screw each). Then I used the adjustable leg to hold the end up. Its out the way on the bottom of the board, accommodates any angle and height, and the pipe is easily removed when needed for the tables. Thanks for the video.
Sounds like a great addition. Thanks for sharing, Terry. Scott
Just finished building it after watching the video. Works great thanks for sharing. Keep them coming.
Dang, you’re fast! Glad you like it. Scott
I love how you were able to display your fixture by swinging it off end of the 520! Made it really easy to see and understand. Thanks Scott!
Glad that helped. A cameraman would be nice! Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Or camerabride?
Hyperion Helios While she is supportive of what I’m doing I am pretty sure she couldn’t have less interest in doing that!
Two thumbs down for this video? Really? Wow, that's a 1st. Oh. Scott. Where did you go wrong on this one? Some viewers have such a discerning palate. Oh well. Can't please'em all!
It's all good. Thumbs up or thumbs down, it's all audience engagement.
Thanks Scott! I will have to build one of those fence extensions for my 520. That is a super cool idea 👍😊
Do it, you'll like it. Scott
Great idea! Now I can put both the new T nuts I recently purchased and the bittner nuts to good use. Thanks!
See, it all comes around full-circle. Thanks for watching. Scott
Scott, I know this is an older video but being fairly new to your channel I am working g my way through them as time allows. You mention with thicker stock that you might have to use a stove bolt or such. What about wrapping over the top of the fence for the 520 and using the t-nut slots on the top?
That would absolutely work. Thanks for time traveling through the channel, Michael! Scott
An upgrade idea on your work piece support fixture for the Model 520: Make a wooden box to straddle the fence and put the (ShopSmith) T-nuts in the slot on the backside of the fence. No interference with work pieces thick enough to hit the Bittner knob!
Nice idea.
brilliant! You are my new favorite channel.
Wow, that’s high praise. Thank you. Scott
Been using my shopmate vise with a board. But will be building one this week!! Great Idea!!
Thanks. I know you'll like it. Scott
Great, thanks!
You are welcome. Scott
I love how the pipe was back. Oh, the jig was nice, too, I guess. ;) I am frustrated by having to shell out for all these special "T-nuts" to make jigs on the 520, though I am otherwise happy with the system personally (had a lot of issues with the 510, but I recognize that could be because of previous owner misuse or mixing and matching parts). Can't wait for the video on making some kind of substitute for the T-nuts on the cheap.
I imagine a pipe will make its appearance from time to time. I’m thinking about several alternatives for the t-nut, but it’s unfortunate that they are so expensive from Shopsmith. If they were even within 20% of a reasonable price I would be happy to support them, but they are just too pricy.
@@MyGrowthRings What do you use instead? Is this an off-the-shelf item?
Danno Sullivan Nothing that’s ready-made that I have found.
...the dang bell.
Can you similarly bolt an extension on the bandsaw fence?
Can't wait to look at mine tomorrow.
You sure can!
Very cool, Scott! Have to make one of those.
Do it. It’s really handy. Scott
Add a horizontal piece across the top, sort of a mirror of the workpiece support. Then fasten the T nuts there. No interfering bolt heads on the fence face!
Yep, that would do it.
For the 520 fence, and/or the 510 fence. You could add a horizontal board to be flush with the top of the fence; secured to the vertical board on the fence, and use the t-nuts and the "Bittner knobs" in the top t-slot of either fence.
For more stability on the 520 fence; you could utilize both top t-slots, and use 3-4 t-nuts with the "Bittner knobs". Just my thoughts. Chad
Absolutely! I would think if you were cutting something heavy that would be very helpful.
Thanks for sharing this Scott. Would you happen to know the part number for those T nuts?
Hey Mark. You can buy them here: www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/catalog/np_jigsfixturesC.htm
Scott, you need a pipe holder on the Shopsmith! :)
You are right. For a time I used to sell what I called the "Magnacob", which as the name implies was a corn cob pipe with a magnet imbedded in the bottom. It works great and keeps my lit pipe from dropping onto sawdust on the floor. Scott
Great tip but for me in my shop I'm thinking of using your tip with my Dewalt table saw instead, will really help as I cut a lot of narrow wood.
Perfect. This will work with most every tablesaw. Thanks for watching and commenting. Scott
I stumbled upon this site because I searched UA-cam for "Shopsmith bandsaw tire replacement" and just subscribed. Obviously, I did this because I am elbow deep in trying to replace the tires on my 90's vintage Mark V. You mentioned that you planned to address this operation in a "future" video. Any idea how far into the future we might be talking? Thanks, and thanks for the great information. Mike
Hey Mike, good to meet you. I have two sets of tires and a couple bandsaws that need new tires, all I need now is the time! I believe it will happen within the next two weeks, if that helps. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Thanks for the quick response! They are the original 90-something tires, so another week or two shouldn't make a huge difference! Mike
@@mikecraw9633 I would guess not. I will install both the Blue Max and the Orange Shopsmith tires, so not only will we see if there is any difference in the installation process but we'll also get to see how each of them perform over time. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Looking forward to it, thanks! Mike
Excellent. Thank you.
You are welcome!
hey Scott....have you ever used the incra mitre gauge on the shopsmith table saw? if so....tell me what ya think! thanks
I have and I’m way ahead of you on this one. Check out this old video: ua-cam.com/video/ILqeevkKf3A/v-deo.html
thank you good ideal
You are welcome, Stan. Scott
great tip for rear support. any tips on adjusting 520 rip fence levers ? they are “spongy” I never know if I’ve pushed them down far enough there’s no discernible stop.
Yes, those are among my least favorite parts of the 520 fence! Have you adjusted the nuts on the rear of the fence? Even though they feel spongy, does it seem that the fence is locked in place? Scott
thanks , I adjusted the nuts so that the levers point to about 7 o’clock they were pointing it at about 9 o’clock and seems to be working better
@@kevinoestmann4644 Glad to hear it. For sure you want tight enough that you can push against it while disc sanding and horizontal boring.
How about a session on adjusting/alignment of the fence on the 520? Mine never aligns properly and I have to fuss with it on every setup.
John Meeks We can do that. Scott
Yeah I have the same issues. When I think I have the fence parallel to the blade the fence is actually angled in to the blade at the outfield side of the table.
Question. My 520 fence is very difficult to set and lock. once the fence is in place the lower lever can tighten it against the side, but not secure it as it cannot be pushed all the way down., then using the lock lever it takes excessive pressure to set, if I loosen the set bolt it allows the fence to move. ???? There is no in-between. Is there an adjustment for the lower lever, and why is the lock lever so difficult to operate???
There certainly is a sweet spot that you gotta get just right with the nut. My advice is to apply some paced wax or PTFE spray on the cams but try to keep your rails as clean and wax free as possible. It’ll be just minor degrees of tightening or loosening of the nut to get the lock just right. Also, double check to make sure that the pads on the face of the fence head are in good shape. They should also be clean and dust free. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings Worked on it today and it did take some finite adjustments, but finally gpt it to perform much better. Thank you, Ted
@@choochoo3985 Glad to hear it.
Ok Scott, I have two mark V’s one early 80’s model and on 510 model. I also have a mark VII. My question is upgrading the power head to the power pro set up. What I’m looking at doing is doing a head swap on the 510 to a power pro head. And the keeping on head as a switch head for the mark V when the 25 hours PM needs to be done. Does that sound like a good Idea to you?
That sounds like a good plan to me. I've had a spare headstock under my bench for 20 years, just in case. I haven't needed it, but I have it if I do. Scott
Good morning Scott. In this video you made a passing comment about liking the 510 table system better than the 520. I am thinking about upgrading my 500 so I would be interested in your opinion about the differences in the 510 and 520. Thank you.
Jude, Going from a 500 to a 520 will be as if you were visited by an intelligent alien life form who gave you all of the secrets to the universe! I own both and do prefer the 510, but I will take a 520 over a 500 any day. There’s too much to share here or in a comment so I guess I need to do a video on the topic. Perhaps in a couple weeks. Scott
Nice
Thanks.
Could the fixture be slid into the other side of the 520 fence, the support added th the opposing side of the jig. The nuts would be on the outside of the fence but not on the cut side. The rip support table added then to the fixture?
Absolutely! I like the added length for ripping longer stock, but if all you’re looking to do is to have some rear support, you certainly could do that. Additionally, I have made these in the past where that rear support piece extends both left and right of the wooden fence extension. That way, I can use it on either side of the blade and it is also helpful on the drill press. I like the way you think, John. Scott
Hey Scott. Great jig. How long does it overhang the back of the table?
Whatever you like. I suspect it's only 10" or so.
Thanks.
@@lenmontanari7999 You are welcome.
A little late to the game maybe, but here goes. Mine is about 30". I even made about a temporary 10" L-shaped piece to attach to the far end to help support wider boards 'way out there.'
Do you really prefer the 510 over the 520? I have 3 ShopSMith Mark Vs and have both table systems but at the moment I'm yet to try either as the first thing I do when I buy a machine is take it apart and service it/restore it. I'd think the flexibility of the round tubes on the 510 is probably more versatile but to me the 520 looks way more accurate and precise, perhaps I'm going to find out otherwise? Do you have any footage comparing the both? You are the man for this subject, I can't thank you enough. Learned so much so quickly from your channel.
I do prefer the 510, but there are aspects of the 520 I like. I don’t think I’ve done a side-by-side, but I suppose I could.
Is there any significance to the golf tee?
Golf tee? That’s a genuine “Patented Aristocob Tamper”, but I suppose it could be used as a golf tee in a pinch. Scott
How did you even notice that?
@@MyGrowthRings Situational Awareness at some job-sites is the difference between life and death.
Hyperion Helios #Truth
Have you ever had your 520 fence move when using the fence as a backstop for horizontal drilling? is there a fix beside tightening the fence so much that you can barely push down the tightening levers. i was thinking of using a nail set to dimple the back bar but am afraid to do it so i made a miter guage extension that goes to the fence to keep it from shifting.
Yes, I have. The most effective technique is (and this makes me sound like a smart aleck) is a sharper bit, faster rpms and less pressure. If all that is done and you still get deflection I would clamp a stop block behind the fence. We’ll have to do a deep dive on this. Scott
Yes using clamps and stop blocks on both ends of the fence will do the trick.
Scott, I am sure you made the width of your support board fairly narrow for a reason. What was the reason? A wider board would have broadened the support. Were you concerned about bending?
By the way, we are almost neighbors. I live down in Pittsboro. I own a Mark 7 Power-Pro system but so far I remain a humble denizen of the very bottom tier of woodworking. I like your videos very much! Keep 'em coming!
Well howdy, neighbor. We’ve been to Jordon Lake many times and have driven right through there. Yes, there is a diminishing return with a wider board. The wider it gets the more it is inclined to cause the fence board to twist and the more it makes the fence though to handle. There have been suggestions to double the fence rail by having it straddle the fence, etc. but this works for me. Play with it. So what sort of woodworking do you want to do? Scott
Makes sense. Good enough is good enough, as they say. I'm going to build one!
I'm just a hobby woodworker -- raw beginner, really. Your videos on the Shopsmith are a pleasure. I've been a home inspector in the local area for many years. I know I will have to retire one of these days. I plan to use the PowerPro more and more to make wooden toys, gifts, and simple furniture. Right now, I'm in the middle of a slow outdoor build of one of Jeff Spira's plywood dories to use on Jordan Lake and the Cape Fear River. The PowerPro will come in handy for fitting out the boat.
Thanks again, Scott. Please keep up the good work. Maybe one of these days we can 'cross flukes' for a mug of coffee. Happy New Year!
@@ChathamJackTar I have a buddy who is a former Shopsmith store manager (Yes, they once had stores) who left to become a home inspector in Indiana. I imagine you've seen some things... You will find the Shopsmith to be a handy tool and for items like you are planning, it will become like a third hand. Coffee sounds great! Scott
Hey Scott, what was the video you did after the table saw extension and did you answer the question regarding the width of the support board? I just can't find it. Love your video's
@@lenmontanari7999 I answered the question in a comment above but let me see if I can track a link down for you for that video.
Are the Shopsmith V & 7 made in the USA?
They sure are. In Dayton, Ohio.