6:40 I'm not sure if anybody already said it, but those are inductors. They won't harm performance of the motor. (They possibly help it, but I stand to be corrected on that.)
Maybe as a reminder to how successful the first one was and as a reference to the weather during the firing test, you could name your personal hyperfire "The Calm Before the Storm" or something similar.
+LordDraconical no problem, I learned that when I was modding my rayven with my dad and he made a comment about leaving them in because we were not overvolting it at the time
+Wish Exodus i don't think you know how capacitors are built ,they acually need a insulator to work properly and if you used google for just a second you would find that ceramic capacitors are a thing
Irst time i am planning on modding a gun. When u get a gun for yourself please show an entire mod on what you did like dont cut any parts i really would like to do what you did :D please you inspire me o make a better gun !!!
A recommendation would be to use leds for lighting as ur showcasing the internals because an average lamp light is way to harsh and just burn out the gun a bit and it was difficult to see. Plus they last longer. One question, does the blue part of the shell detach for painting purposes?
The objects in question on the dart pusher motor are regular resistors that are just a flat impedance (not thermal resistors which use heat created from current passing through to impede electrons) to reduce the amperage on the motor. This allows Hasbro to use worthless crap motors and not worry about them failing. P.S. sorry about the big words, I am an electrical engineer apprentice.
tbh as an electrical engineer there are a few things i found wrong with this video such as the fact that you removed the diodes which does not improve the overall performance if anything the diodes are there to protect the circuit from the reversed polarity once you stop feeding power to the motors the motors will obvious continues spinning which will produce power and could out in a reversed polarity, so it'd be a good idea if you put the back. You also did not need to remove the switches, you could of installed transistors for the low current switches to control although i guess in your theory you're trying to keep it a "clean circuit" so lets not over complicate things. I'm actually gonna attempt to do a mod myself and in my case i'll try to make a new case for the front motors so that maybe i could fit bigger sized motors, i will this case using my 3d printer, i'm also gonna add lubricant to have minimal friction resistance. I'd like to if possible use brushless motors, hopefully i could succeed. also if possible make the tube wider to avoid friction. I'm gonna try to take every single aspect of it into consideration
Hey, thanks for the info, first time repairing a fly wheel nerf but I was able to fix my 7 year old son's Hyperfire (his favorite) by using the video as a guide. It had a bad switch on the rev trigger, I removed two of the safety switches and used one to replace the bad switch, a little rewiring later and it was good to go. Thanks again and keep up the good work!
Have you see? Hasbro never ever tried to fixtue ranges or anything like that so why would they do anything like that? Elite wepons are the same expect from a slight improvment and better darts to make the balster look better.
Hey drac just putting together a similar mod of my own using your video as a reference. I noticed that the pusher motor is actually bigger than the flywheel motors when compared side by side. I noticed when I tried to replace it with a mtb rhino and it wouldn't fit cause the rhino was too small.Any idea what the size might be? And has the stock motor held up to the increased voltage being pushed through it? If so I might just leave it stock like you did.Cheers.
I think this is the most comprehensive guide I can find, I will be modding my Hyperfire in the same way as you. (and also probably a paint job) What motors did you use for the pusher and flywheels? Do you reckon a Rhino or a Barricade motor for a pusher would work? Don't know about flywheel motors though. Nice Vid! Thanks for the inspiration!
Those things you called thermistors are resisters. Thermister measures heat, resisters resist voltage to make lower voltage electronics able to use higher voltage power sources
Actually, there isn't a single resistor in the entire gun. On the feeding motor, there is a set of coil wound inductors. On the motors, there are 4 very odd looking inductors. That's why the resistance on them is in the tenths of ohms. Definitely an odd setup. Under the motor board there are 2 thermistors tho
PSA: If you're going to use alkaline batteries in your Hyperfire for whatever reason, don't use Energizer brand D cells. The projection on the positive side of Energizer D cells is shorter than on some other brand's D cells, and this will cause the battery to not make contact with the terminals in the Hyperfire's battery tray. I have been having problems with my Hyperfire from the day I got it, and I only just now fixed it by switching to a different brand of batteries. Before this, I had been thinking that I was going to need to Dremel out some plastic near the terminals in my Hyperfire's battery tray so the batteries would get reliable electrical contact.
Forgive me for taking up your time sir, but I was wondering if the pusher motor you are using in this gun is the same as the ones in the flywheel. In other words; are all three motors 3s compatible? You see, I have been plunged into doubt as I have seen modders more learned than myself using mtb honey badgers (2s) for pusher motors and mtb rhinos (3s) for flywheel motors. But they use these under the same lipo 3s powersource. As a modder of supreme stature such as yourself, I was wondering if you could bring order to this nagging question.
I feel like the hyperfire is a great flag ship gun, the fact that it isnt a re-hashed stryfe and has a great rate of fire, i dont however like the drop of the darts have the longer you continuously fire.. It is a great blaster, but it can be amazing with some elbow grease. Cant wait for a hydro dip paint job drac ;3
so, here's a question from a dumb guy... would the 3 AA to D battery converters add any performance to a stock Hyperfire? I imagine using trust fires would up the performance but how would regular alkaline batteries fare in this scenario?
Wait I'm confused… Didn't you forget to make this thing shoot vortex discs? I mean the guy only carries vortex clipazine on him so how's it going to be able to fire it? :p
I didn't watch the whole video right now cuz of time constraints. Did Drac say what type of motors he was using? Or did they stay stock and just got rewired to a lipo with higher gauge wiring?
+LordDraconical watching the slow mo I noticed the belt/jam door was lifting up with each shot... Just a thought, but a way of strapping that down might make the system more efficient
Quick question: Could you put a NC microswitch against the conveyor belt (wired in parallel to the other switches) so that when you pull the trigger, it does one full cycle? Just its annoying that you can't shoot a single dart easily
Is there a list of what parts you use (the Li-po battery, motors, etc)? Retaliator finally broke and looking into replacing it with a modded Hyperfire.
Drac are you sure the pusher motor is 130 size I tried to replace mine with a MTB honeybager motor but the stock pusher motor was to big the replacement was to small
![[VS] Nerf Rapidstrike vs. Nerf Hyperfire | Which is Better!?](/img/n.gif)
that fore grip is BEGGING to have a small tac light integrated to it
Ikr I want to paint my old Cs recon light blue and put it in that or just any light in general
I totally agree
I'm putting a pwm in my hyperfire pistol
drac: oh no its going to rain!
hyperfire: oh hell yeah its gonna rain!
W
its like a movie qupte or something here take my like
Just take 40
language! hyperfire.
i like how nerf finally makes this gun that can fire 5 darts per second, and someone comes in and doubles it.
Dude would kill for the parts list!
One mod suggestion for this blaster: Replace the trigger with some kind of linear variable resistor so you can have some control over the fire rate.
"don't know what it does but we'll remove it anyways" ,seems like a good thing to do
Elijah Salinas seems legit
6:40 I'm not sure if anybody already said it, but those are inductors. They won't harm performance of the motor. (They possibly help it, but I stand to be corrected on that.)
Wow!! I am absolutely stunned about how fast the rate of fire is! That's just fantastic!! Great mod Drac!:-)
Why in god's name would you do this in the dark...
+Brandon Marcial somebody doesnt watch the vlog channel. :(
+LordDraconical ill sub to it but still why do you do it in the dark
+Icy Alpaca i prefer working in low light
+ryanlim eekern he is hypersensitive to light so he prefers the dark more.....
drac dis is for u mai love
he's a vamp duuuuu
Wow. I actually want that dart hose.
+Zachary Abeyta "dart hose" OML LOLOLOL.
+Zachary Abeyta
"I am a tornado of death and bullets!" -CL4P-TP
All we need now is a 500 drum and a turret mount xD
+MiniCrafter that'd be sick
Maybe as a reminder to how successful the first one was and as a reference to the weather during the firing test, you could name your personal hyperfire "The Calm Before the Storm" or something similar.
the "thermistors" on the motors are inductors so the current doesn't make any noise ie radio interferance
+Stephen Beauchamp Thank you! Now i know.
+LordDraconical no problem, I learned that when I was modding my rayven with my dad and he made a comment about leaving them in because we were not overvolting it at the time
+Stephen Beauchamp They are actually ceramic capacitors not inductors.
+Wish Exodus i don't think you know how capacitors are built ,they acually need a insulator to work properly and if you used google for just a second you would find that ceramic capacitors are a thing
Drac is probably the first to upload a mod guide for this blaster.
Ever wanted to call this something?
Call it the Scorpion Evo.
Correct name is CZ3A1 and it shoots 1000 RPM
Still the fastest gun in Black ops 2.
YES!!! BO2 FANS UNITE!
Drac, you're not a derpasaur. You're count Derpula
No he's LordDerpconical
+FoxSickness
*LordDerponical
theres no C
Hater alert!
Dr. Derpenstein
Hey drac, the motor powering the conveyor belt is actually bigger than a 130. There was a post about it on reddit about a week ago.
About a week agoooooo... :)
I the hyperfire internals seem to be simpler than the rapidstrike, don't you agree?
Would it be possible to have a part list for this?
Irst time i am planning on modding a gun. When u get a gun for yourself please show an entire mod on what you did like dont cut any parts i really would like to do what you did :D please you inspire me o make a better gun !!!
A recommendation would be to use leds for lighting as ur showcasing the internals because an average lamp light is way to harsh and just burn out the gun a bit and it was difficult to see. Plus they last longer. One question, does the blue part of the shell detach for painting purposes?
What motors did you use for the flywheels and conveyor belt? I didn't hear it mentioned in the video.
He probally used MTB rhinos and the pusher can't be replaces because it is too big
He says later in the video that he used 3s Aussie (i believe it was aussie, but I can't tell) motors a hint after 7:56
Damn this is probably going be the best gun for HvZ and wars
All I can say is WOW! That and, I want one now! great job on the mods, love this.
You do all the important bits, off camera. Thanks.
The objects in question on the dart pusher motor are regular resistors that are just a flat impedance (not thermal resistors which use heat created from current passing through to impede electrons) to reduce the amperage on the motor. This allows Hasbro to use worthless crap motors and not worry about them failing.
P.S. sorry about the big words, I am an electrical engineer apprentice.
tbh as an electrical engineer there are a few things i found wrong with this video such as the fact that you removed the diodes which does not improve the overall performance if anything the diodes are there to protect the circuit from the reversed polarity once you stop feeding power to the motors the motors will obvious continues spinning which will produce power and could out in a reversed polarity, so it'd be a good idea if you put the back. You also did not need to remove the switches, you could of installed transistors for the low current switches to control although i guess in your theory you're trying to keep it a "clean circuit" so lets not over complicate things. I'm actually gonna attempt to do a mod myself and in my case i'll try to make a new case for the front motors so that maybe i could fit bigger sized motors, i will this case using my 3d printer, i'm also gonna add lubricant to have minimal friction resistance. I'd like to if possible use brushless motors, hopefully i could succeed. also if possible make the tube wider to avoid friction. I'm gonna try to take every single aspect of it into consideration
Paint the blaster and name it the "StormBringer"
+Ben “Sheep” Lam Give it a paintjob with thundercloud detailing, and lightning coming out of the cloud toward the barrel.
Hey, thanks for the info, first time repairing a fly wheel nerf but I was able to fix my 7 year old son's Hyperfire (his favorite) by using the video as a guide. It had a bad switch on the rev trigger, I removed two of the safety switches and used one to replace the bad switch, a little rewiring later and it was good to go. Thanks again and keep up the good work!
This is the most beautiful thing I've ever seen. I'm trying so hard not to cry.
wow drac that is sick - rate of fire is insane great vid
Hi CJ
Hewo it me i i in a chines restauremnt eating grl tso chikn num num num
I hope it gets better range when it's fully released
There's no way hasbro would do that unless all blasters were broken but you can dream
Have you see? Hasbro never ever tried to fixtue ranges or anything like that so why would they do anything like that? Elite wepons are the same expect from a slight improvment and better darts to make the balster look better.
When Drac promises a hail of death, he delivers!
uh uh uh there's a problem with the firing demo being that I blinked and I missed all the darts
the lighting makes it seem like an evil science experiment thing
this is the image that they wanted for the stampede... which is by far the coolest looking blaster ever
i can totally see junking that giant empty front section and doing an epic integration and maybe putting on a connector nozzle.
Paint it to look like a ppsh-41
That fire rate, you'd need to build a special magazine just to fire it for any length of time. Looks pretty sweet to me
Oml that is INSANE! Like that ROF....just crazy. Luv it. cant wait to get one
You could integrate an LED for a tac light in the front of the foregrip, and hide the battery in that hollow space
+Darth Sickler That's exactly what I thought when I saw the foregrip!
I'm so glad you didn't use tamiyas for this. MTB rhinos are pretty much the best motor options out there.
this is the best "Load dumper" I've seen so far
the components on the motor board are inductors/ chokes. mostly for rf suppression.
Drac!!! The uploads are insane!!!! Sooo many videos!!!!!!
Hey drac just putting together a similar mod of my own using your video as a reference. I noticed that the pusher motor is actually bigger than the flywheel motors when compared side by side. I noticed when I tried to replace it with a mtb rhino and it wouldn't fit cause the rhino was too small.Any idea what the size might be? And has the stock motor held up to the increased voltage being pushed through it? If so I might just leave it stock like you did.Cheers.
The new workspace could use more light, it's a bit dark and hard to see what's happening from time to time.
I agree.
I think this is the most comprehensive guide I can find, I will be modding my Hyperfire in the same way as you. (and also probably a paint job)
What motors did you use for the pusher and flywheels? Do you reckon a Rhino or a Barricade motor for a pusher would work?
Don't know about flywheel motors though.
Nice Vid!
Thanks for the inspiration!
pushermotor may be similar to a 130 in lenght, but not in width. so standard 13D/130 motors won't fit as pushermotors without some work.
Those things you called thermistors are resisters. Thermister measures heat, resisters resist voltage to make lower voltage electronics able to use higher voltage power sources
Actually, there isn't a single resistor in the entire gun. On the feeding motor, there is a set of coil wound inductors. On the motors, there are 4 very odd looking inductors. That's why the resistance on them is in the tenths of ohms. Definitely an odd setup. Under the motor board there are 2 thermistors tho
PSA: If you're going to use alkaline batteries in your Hyperfire for whatever reason, don't use Energizer brand D cells.
The projection on the positive side of Energizer D cells is shorter than on some other brand's D cells, and this will cause the battery to not make contact with the terminals in the Hyperfire's battery tray.
I have been having problems with my Hyperfire from the day I got it, and I only just now fixed it by switching to a different brand of batteries.
Before this, I had been thinking that I was going to need to Dremel out some plastic near the terminals in my Hyperfire's battery tray so the batteries would get reliable electrical contact.
Forgive me for taking up your time sir, but I was wondering if the pusher motor you are using in this gun is the same as the ones in the flywheel. In other words; are all three motors 3s compatible? You see, I have been plunged into doubt as I have seen modders more learned than myself using mtb honey badgers (2s) for pusher motors and mtb rhinos (3s) for flywheel motors. But they use these under the same lipo 3s powersource. As a modder of supreme stature such as yourself, I was wondering if you could bring order to this nagging question.
In slowmo it still fires like a stryfe, which is crazy fast
Are you worried about burning the conveyor motor on 3S? Or did you upgrade that motor as well?
are the "aussie" motors you use MTB rhinos? Also, did you use the same motor for the belt mech?
ingredients list, pls
I feel like the hyperfire is a great flag ship gun, the fact that it isnt a re-hashed stryfe and has a great rate of fire, i dont however like the drop of the darts have the longer you continuously fire.. It is a great blaster, but it can be amazing with some elbow grease. Cant wait for a hydro dip paint job drac ;3
*re-shelled and it is a rapidstrike with better stryfe internalls
*re-shelled and it is a rapidstrike with better stryfe internalls
i cant wait till the modulus tri strike to come out so i can buy one and see you review it (Your one of my favorite youtubers)
The foregrip on this thing looks like it's made for an integration. Oh the possibilities.
To be honest, Drac, I think that the coolest thing you could do to this would be a full on sleeper with heavy internal mids.
+Flaming Glory Isnt that exactly whats been done?
I'm talking full on motor replacement, etc. Don't just "improve it" OVERHAUL it. That'd be cool.
exactly what he did
So Drac, you going to be open for commissions any time soon?
Perhaps try to make a extended mag for this? Heck, if only the stampede actually came with a 50 dart drum, talk about 10 darts per second...
This is the most interesting mod guide
I would probably cut of that hollow section under the motor cage and add a handle grip from the recon instead.
The stock nerf rev triggers can take the current from a 3s
so, here's a question from a dumb guy... would the 3 AA to D battery converters add any performance to a stock Hyperfire? I imagine using trust fires would up the performance but how would regular alkaline batteries fare in this scenario?
I saw the review of this gun and it's a cool gun and you are already modding it
Here's an idea... Cut off the stock and put a lipo in the front so it could be a total spray and pray rush blaster!
accuracy looks better than a rapidstrike. Can't wait to get hold of one of these. when's the release date for the UK????
Wait I'm confused… Didn't you forget to make this thing shoot vortex discs? I mean the guy only carries vortex clipazine on him so how's it going to be able to fire it? :p
I didn't watch the whole video right now cuz of time constraints. Did Drac say what type of motors he was using? Or did they stay stock and just got rewired to a lipo with higher gauge wiring?
He used rhino motors and probably 16 or 18 gauge wire
+LordDraconical watching the slow mo I noticed the belt/jam door was lifting up with each shot... Just a thought, but a way of strapping that down might make the system more efficient
Which microswiches are you using? (brand, name, specs to make sure it is the correct one, etc)
OMFG!!!! Sick gun, how much did it cost too modify?
Dude you still do commissions right? How much would you charge for something of this level?
What wire and micro switches do you use drac?
I'm new to this nerf gun stuff but I just got a Hyperfire and this thing needs a mod! What motors did you use :)?
Nice job drac! Those plastic gears and rubber belt make me nervous. Easy to break and stretch out.
+Isheian but also means that they can be 3D printed from a stronger plastic, or even cast from metal if somone wanted really long lasting gears
If you could change the belt gears, the one off the motor,to not be a worm gear, that would make it go so much faster.
Does any body else feel like we should combine the demolisher and the hyper fire?
The shell does look perfectly shaped, but I am not a modder so maybe I am wrong. Either way cool idea
is there a way you can explain/show a diagram of how you soldered everything?
Am I the only one who can't wait for a uzi version of those, cut off stock and put the lipo in the hollow front grip
Quick question: Could you put a NC microswitch against the conveyor belt (wired in parallel to the other switches) so that when you pull the trigger, it does one full cycle? Just its annoying that you can't shoot a single dart easily
Drac I love your channel and your content is consistently great, but what's up w/ the lighting in this vid?
of course that if they ask you to do a custom mod right for them right?
Because the hyper fire has dead space in the for grip could you put the battery tray in the front then saw the back off to make a pistol
yes when you do make one are you going to sell it
I have a question.. I probably already know the answer but anyways. How many volts can stock nerf motors handle?
My hyperfire's pusher motor is larger than a 130. Should be fine to try and replace it with a 130.
Is there a list of what parts you use (the Li-po battery, motors, etc)? Retaliator finally broke and looking into replacing it with a modded Hyperfire.
Maybe you could fit a jolt or something into the fore grip...
I wonder if someone could 3d print a smaller gear for the conveyer belt for a bigger gear ratio, that way the darts can shoot even faster
Drac I see those Longstrike internals, what're you planning?
hey drac were the flywheels the same size (away from the thickness) as the ones on the stryfe
I wonder if you added another two teeth to the conveyor would it help or hinder performance?
It fires so fast it makes a micky mouse laugh while firing
so did you replace the motor for the conveyor belt thing? couldn't tell
Did you leave the belt motor stock? How will that hold up under Lipo power?
DRAC WHEN THIS IS FULLY RELEASED , YOU HAVE TO MOD IT AND TURN IT INTO A DOCTRINE OF PASSING!!!!!
Will you do a video on how to convert your blaster from normal alkaline batteries to a lipo
Drac are you sure the pusher motor is 130 size I tried to replace mine with a MTB honeybager motor but the stock pusher motor was to big the replacement was to small
Has anyone removed the stock and relocated the LiPo into the foregrip yet? Looking forward to seeing the HyperFang's paint job.