Get MA pump upgrade kit here → amzn.to/2i5W1Ss Get my favorite gasket maker for this here → amzn.to/2hkTC5z Click here to watch my video on a pump rub hole repair using a plate → ua-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&vide...
Hey Brian, I have some pretty good up and down play on the rear driveshaft to the transfer case. When I kinda hit it up while in the transfer case, it sounds like a metal on metal clink. Is that normal?
Sorry to be offtopic but does any of you know a method to log back into an instagram account?? I somehow lost the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me
@Dylan Otis Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Nice part 1. I paid somebody to rebuild one of these 2 years ago, cost was about $1300 with them doing all the work. It was in the middle of winter and at the time I had no garage. I also rebuilt another before that one for about $300 in parts which included the back half of the case since it had a hole worn through it.
Been doing these transfer cases for a while. Good video by the way. I'd like to mention one thing I do. if it's just the update kit you dont have to remove the transfercase. Just unbolt the bottom bolts to the trans mount and lift the trans up till it all most touches the bottom of the floor, it will just give you enough room to wiggle the case half out. The C clip is a pain but it will spread apart. OH That C clip that prevents the removal of the case half is just that ,it has no purpose at all, I leave it out. the bearing is held in place by the snap ring. and the case holds it in place. Why did the engineer that part
You're too kind man. I'm working on part two today to post tomorrow morning. My goal is to fill in some tips and tricks that help folks get through the tougher parts that cause hold ups and hang ups.
I discovered my transfer case is covered in fluid on my 99 Tahoe that's 268k miles young. I greatly appreciate this excellent video. This rig isn't my daily driver any longer and has no symptoms of concern, but I wanted an idea of what it would take to deal with the worse case scenario of a rebuild or replacement. Part 1 has me thinking even if only new seals are needed that I should plan on doing a full rebuild in case any internal case wear is on the brink, etc. I need a four-wheel drive on many occasions, and I also often need the power and towing capacity of my Tahoe as well. I don't need either often enough to justify replacing it with a new rig or making a gas guzzler my daily, but I do need them enough to justify just about any major mechanical repair regardless of my Tahoe's age. This transfer case rebuild looks like a smart thing to plan to do proactively within the next year or two. It looks like a job that isn't bad to do patiently and proactively but that would be horrible as a breakdown repair under duress.
Another 1999 Tahoe says hi! I love mine. It has 153k. Used to be my daily (actually weekly) commuter alike yours. Now it is in semi retirement. I take it out for the occasional trip. Plan to take it for some nice vacation trip this year. Just have to figure out where. It has been a great vehicle to travel. I can't think of a better one. Well, maybe an 8.1 swap with a 4L80. That would be sweet. Just a dream.
I believe the idea behind the floating seal has to do with longevity and cost-savings. With a conventional seal, the output shaft would slip around the soft material of the seal. This means the output shaft must be polished to a very fine finish so as not to rapidly wear out the seal. The 2-piece seal has a highly polished ring inside (the first section you pulled out) that the soft outer material slides against. In theory, the polished ring in the seal is cheaper to produce and has more consistent quality than polishing the sealing area of the output shafts. GM (or AAM?) also uses these seals in the rear axle housings. Many aftermarket seals are a *1-piece* design which fail rapidly because the axle shafts are not polished for direct sliding-seal contact. I guess all this means is GM will be getting my money for seals because I don't like changing them.
Yours is a good angle. I am glad I am reading the comments and found yours. Following your comment made me thinking, the 2-piece design is may be even more forgiving during installation as far as abrasion damage goes. In this case as shown in he video, there is a large rough area that the seal has to traverse upon installation. Sure well lubed, but still. Also and this is just another thought, the 2-piece design may be even more prone to self cleaning. I think this, because I would expect the rotational forces to move small contaminants within the sealing area eventually towards the outer area and hopefully eventually drop outside the sealing area. Vs. some regular seals are made in ways that they have sort of a dual lip to trap grease, but contaminants too. Anyhow, just my thoughts.
I am getting ready to do this and was looking for some videos on the process. Your video is very informative and with great attention to detail and highlighting issues that may be easy to overlook. I particularly was looking for the wear situation in case of an intact factory ‘saver tab’ and @7:30 you showed exactly the issue here as well. So this made me decide for the MA pump upgrade vs. before seeing your video I was considering the simple stamped steel drop-in saver unit. But seeing the factory saver tab working it’s way into the magnesium like that - huh. I think the stamped saver won’t last long. Thank you for pointing out in the second video the clip eating into the housing as well. Anyhow, sorry for writing so much and thanks again for all the great tips and really well made video.
@@briansmobile1 Thank you for chiming in and asking. Well, here is the short version: The transfer case is done. Here is the long version: I used a new transfer case half, even though the old transfer case had NO holes what so ever. In fact I found it to be in really good condition (@153k miles). So good that I actually regretted having opened it and kept banging my head in the wall thinking "if it ain't broke don't fix it". First problem was that seeing that, I started brainstorming if I should even use the already purchased magnesium case half or just reuse my old housing and put everything back together. I got the new magnesium housing for a very good price, so I was considering taking advantage of that. But then again - huh. I found that I had a little wear, but only at area of the clip. I believe approx. 1mm of material was missing. So that meant that the Merchant Automotive unit would ‘ride’ on 3x legs vs. 4x, with one leg being ‘in the air’ by about 1mm. Essentially the forces would be distributed to 75% of the area vs. 100%. So I ended up doing some test fitting of the Merchant Automotive unit in the old case and the new case. New case won of course hands down. I also tried to determine the case wall thickness by measuring the outer area and comparing that against the inner part. It looked like the case wall is slightly thicker at the clip. To my estimation it is 3-4mm thick. The other 3x respective areas appeared to be around 3mm. And that is exactly what finally made me decide to use the Merchant Automotive part. Because the way I see it, otherwise, with the old case the way this is going to go down is that the currently 3x area where the pump ‘legs’ are ‘riding’ are going to wear down as long as all ‘legs’ are going to be able to carry the load. So the Merchant Automotive part would eventually wear in and in this case wear into the case half to some degree, until all or enough legs will carry the load. So the transfer case is done. As far as the actual work goes, yes, I had some hiccups along the way, but in the end nothing too serious. I have since thoroughly tested the vehicle. Transfer case shifts through all modes and there are no suspicious noises. Before putting things together, I have checked for integrity of the sensor hole depth. Actually I have checked same value on the old transfer case half before disassembly. I measured on both old and new 32.4mm on both sensor holes from the O-Ring surface to the gear tooth top land. I ended up reusing the encoder motor gasket. Its built in o-rings looked far better than the ones on the new-aftermaket gasket. This new one would have needed some trimming in order to clear certain spots of the transfer case, which would have been an easy fix, but the deal breaker was that it even had some badly aligning (almost aligning, but just not quite aligning) holes as well. So Amazon refunded it. I did not replace neither the input shaft gasket nor front driveshaft output shaft gaskets. I was already way behind schedule and did not want any additional potential hold up. I figured the input shaft gasket is lubed from both sides, so how bad could it be. A little potential seeping between transmission and transfer case could not be the end of the world was my reasoning. So I have left it alone. Fingers crossed. Removal of the baked-in silicone was at first rather challenging. But then I came up with a really nice method, which I like to share: I have used a multi tool with green kitchen scotch brush pads, which I cut to pieces. I greased those with some transmission assembly lube, so that they does not create or shed any particles. I needed new pads every few inches as the pads would load up or the abrasiveness would diminish. No problem, they are cheap enough. I was able to rotate them 180 as well, so each pad got 2x passes. All in all it worked like a charm. So well, that I probably would not even needed to cover the transfer case internals. Also so well, that this is now my preferred method for removing gaskets. No rotational flinging off of grease either. Wonderful. Bolts was another brainstorming event. I chased all the threads and wanted to install new bolts, but then I cheaped out thinking I am already spending way too much money on a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" job. So I said the hell with it, I reuse my existing nylon covered bolts. Which were, well not so well nylon covered any more. So initially I was thinking to clean the nylon off of them, but it turned out to be way too time intensive. In the end I left it as is. I used some thread sealant for the threads and a hint of Loctite blue. (By the way, I checked and BMW N52 inline 6's use magnesium for the upper and lower crankcase. Porsche has been using 1968-1977 Magnesium Case Halves as well. But apparently not without problems) When I have assembled the transfer case halves, I have managed to mess up my first attempt. I made the classical beginner error. And YES, I totally knew that I was making it, but I kept on doing it anyway; I put too much RTV. I kept telling myself, it was OK, let’s not worry about it, factory over did the RTV as well, plus many other people are doing the same mistake too and are probably just fine. Then after it was all done and all bolts torqued I got uneasy and said screw it, I am not going to leave this like this. So I have redone the whole damn thing again. Of course this set me back once again some considerable time. Having to remove all the uncured RTV and cleaning everything again. But the second time I got it pretty good. Only a thin bead of RTV seemed to have been pushed out. Oh, just before case halves assembly, I have managed to drop my damn magnet. Great. It fell to the floor and went up in pieces. So another setback. Especially with all eBay sellers that had it being located on the east coast, me on the west coast and so hence long standard shipping times. But luckily I was able find it at (would you have guessed?) our local Home Depot. Home Depot Part #96604. OD and thickness exactly the same (1.75 x 0.25 inches), ID about 1/16 larger, but who cares. It is a strong magnet and Home Depot hat it in stock. Final assembly of the transfer case back into the vehicle with no issues. Overall I am very happy how this project came out. Thanks again for all your advice in the video!
I love that idea period. I'm definitely inspired. I don't even yet own a slide hammer, but the vice grip attachment looks like a reason to pick one up for sure.
Previous owner on my truck told me he"fixed" the leak. He sure did! Two self tapping screws and I guess JB weld. Wedged the pump in place. I was actually able to separate the case with the shaft and pump in place. That's when I saw the screws
Excellent video very educational thank you! The problem that I have is every time I put my vehicle in reverse it sounds like a bad u-joint or a slap or knock but I come to find out it's coming from my transfer case, upgrading to the new pump plate did that solve and fix the issue?
You found some interesting foreign objects and wear in that case. I'll remember not to use black RTV for sure. Good tips about installing the seals. I'll be back!
Great video and explanation.. my 01 GMC Yukon is not shifting from 2WD to 4HI, pops the ATC fuse. Pulled the t case motor and it motor will cycle all positions no problem Would tearing into the t case and doing this service fix a shifting problem?
Finding a mechanic that cares and will actually do the work you pay them to do, is getting very difficult. Maximizing profits seems to be the main focus.
As a former mechanic, I can't speak for everyone but I can speak for many. The shops drive the bad experiences and reputations many associate with mechanics. The shops put the squeeze on the mechanics and the customers. There are so many repairs and inspections that have a built in loss for the mechanic and selling repairs on discovered issues, etc is supposed to be the payoff for the mechanic. The flag times are cut throat. Experience can improve the situation, but no mechanic can pay their bills if they were as casual and conscientious about their daily work as this man and others are in UA-cam videos. What you are seeing is the approach probably most mechanics would like to be able to make to their jobs, but they wouldn't have a job if they actually did so and even if they had a job they would not earn enough flag time to feed and clothe their families. Some mechanics are greedy but nearly every shop is definitely greedy and they put the squeeze on the mechanic and the customer while the mechanic and the customer tend to loathe each other for the situation while the shop in middle sneaks by to stash their cash grab. Some shops are good, but you will know them because a good shop won't keep a bad or crooked mechanic around. So if your experience is broken it's probably not the mechanic at fault. It certainly isn't only the mechanic at fault. It's the fake smiling faces of the shop owners, management, and counter sales that have duped you into thinking your mechanic is a bad apple at an otherwise fine establishment. Don't trash an entire group of professionals while ignoring the corporate greed that is the real root of your bitterness.
Maybe if you can find a washer that has the correct inner/outer diam. For that floati ng seal it would make it easier. Then you can use the bearing housing and even a press
Willa Herrera back when his hair was reverse. All on top and no beard. Think...how many guys had bald heads and beards who listened to Jovi and Def Lepard? Now how many with long hair and zero beards?!
Hey Brian: good video. I have some comments and a question. Now I realize that I am commenting on an Older video, that being said. You spoke about the transmission extension leaking fluid, recommended that someone should replace the seal if leaking. Mine is leaking fluid noticed it, after I removed the transfer case... You don't show how you would go about removing this seal.. Although no-one else has shown how to remove the seal either... I think that there would be numerous people who would love to see what tools and techniques that you use to do this job. Question: Do you know how to find a good diagram showing this seal.? Thank you for your time...
Thanks for the knowledge I have a 2008 GMC had duramax. I went to service my transfer case and the previous shop must have over tightened and stripped the fill bolt. Now I have to fill from the speed sensor. Only problem I would like to check the levels. Any ideas on how to remove the bolt and install the new plug
Go get a Irwin strip bolt removal kit from Lowes or homedepo. Or find a buddy w a welder that can help ya. Or if your in a bind grind the bolt flat on 2 spots to get a new movement point ... Replace bolt.
So that's a 4L80e. Regarding the GM trans output seal, Does a 4L60e have one? I'm working on a 4L60e/NP261 and have the T case off. I don't see a seal.
I'm not sure. Best check with a transmission shop tech who specializes in these. I think it does, but I'm not 100% on that. I'm building a BMW R1200RT transmission tonight and I've been sick the last 4 days. I won't remember everything on that either I'm sure.
Did this vehicle have the nickel slip yoke upgrade? (I assume not) My understanding is that wear of the snap ring and the knocking sound is an indication of the slip yoke "sticking". I know you added the grease fitting in the slip yoke to help this out in the part 2 video, how did that go for helping it? Its my understanding that the MA Tcase fluid is supposed to help with the knocking as well. (instead of using the ATF fluid in the Tcase) Thanks for the good videos!
I shipped a 2007 Tahoe LTZ 4x4 to my country we don’t use 4x4 transfer case is destroyed I want to remove the transfer case and make if 2x4 what do I need to achieve this? I know I would need a drive shaft from 2x4 donor
I have an 01 silverado np246 how come alot of kits and parts say 02 and up is there some difference on the 01 np246? I have some parts on my truck say 00 as in yr 2000 like my front diff has an 00 on it I did some transmission work and my valve body is an 02 with the blue paint saying SERV so im guessing that was rebuilt at the dealer I have 3.73 gear ratio I got a knock when going into reverse coming from Tcase any imput on this?
Hello there.. I have a np246 transfer case and I did some work to it.. is there supposed to be fluid in the extension house . From the trans to T-case ??
Hey Brian, I have 05 cayenne 200k auto ..problem won't move in any gear (grinding vibrating humming sound) now if you lock diff on both axles - it moves very slow but I assume this is like a 4wheel low gear ... Any clue on why this would not grab a gear unless diff locked ?? Previous clicking noises when stepping on gas ...would go away randomly if feathered the gas ... Praying not transmission... Any ideas ? Thanks ...
Brian i jabe a question for you well after i watched this video like a week lator mine went. But ok had it fixed an now i noticed the very bottom bolt rite next to drain plug is wet an looks like coming from behind bolt an seeping out is this a easy fix ? Or would they have to redo the whole seal on transfer case. Thanks brian.
Why did you use the MA pump upgrade kit vs the 27 dollar adapt a case Pump Wear Plate? The Pump Wear Plate seems so much easier and cheaper to use. I just did mine with the Pump Wear Plate after watching your previous video. Seems to have done the trick for the last 1000 miles or so.
Can tail shaft case wear from the output shaft bearing cause drivetrain noise? Took apart my truck to locate this drivetrain noise that sounds like an output shaft bearing but it looks fine. The case is pretty worn around it though.
Absolutely it can. Likely the U-joints or driveshaft balance weight had an issue. If you can take your driveshaft to a driveshaft shop close by I'd have them spin it and check balance.
No one tells you that the speed sensor will prevent you from opening the 2 case half's, I fought the lock ring for over half an hour before realizing this.
Hello can you send me a step by step skretch or something? And the hummer h2 is the same?! And when we pull of the transfer case need the change a fluid or no ?
What if you have a whining sound in 4 wheel drive when you accelerate and decelerate and while driving with no snow on ground... but 4 wheel only is the whining sound. What could that be?
I feel like and idiot… I accidentally ordered the knockoff MA pump saver. When I put it on my pump it’s VERY hard to turn. Is this normal? Was my pump just worn making it loose before?
Just pulled my 261 do to wear holes and an occasional grind. I split the case and that metal tab was broke off. It has about an half inch of play in the main sprocket on the main shaft... is that normal? And the pump has play also.
hey! there i have question i have a trailblazer 03 that is leaking from the top of my transfer case at first my first time to view this i thought its was my front shaft output seal, when i take the shaft out the way i notice shaft seal is still in good shape not seen any leak from seal but i notice a fresh fluid coming from the top of the transfercase and i see this only hose all wet with oil, my big bam question is why this hose is loose and open with no where to connect it ( my transmission oil is on level engine filter oil change was done recent) but when i clean up the oil mess with a white towel and smell like engine oil like burn, so im thinking that my engine oil is leaking out from this hose why and why this hose is leaking out my engine oil. the thing is when i take my trailbazer for oil filter change at the shop the guy tell me that the engine has no oil at all and this is the 3 time that the shop tell me when i bring back to the shop regurly for oil change but in the engine area there is no oil leak anywhere they look and nothing seem to be leaking anywhere, but this hose got me thinking and i cant find no result what the cause of it. any help??? thanks
Hello, i have a 2005 Chevy avalanche 1500 and have a lot of play on my shaftcomming from the transfer case and going to the front diff. If I drive the car and let go of the gas and go back on the gas there is Always a bang/klunk noise. Also when i put in drive you feel this play and here that noise. And there is a winning noise when i drive. Now what do you think this is? Transmission has been rebuild by the previous owner, so that should be ok. Is it the same part you replace that causes that sound? ore is it something with the belt Tension Maybe? Kind Regards from Belgium
Just wondering ? The squeel didnt happen to be a roller lifter on the cam did it ? I just had that go bad and mine sounded like a serpentine belt squeel , but i removed that and it still squeeled
Brian, you mentioned at the 4:15 mark that the reason for tearing it apart is because of a knocking from coasting to romping on it. My question is, did you find out what the cause of that "knocking" was? I dont recall you saying anything about that in the 2 videos. If You could clarify for me I would really appreciate it as my 2004 2500HD is currently doing just that. Thanks.
i just used the 2 main shaft old bearings stacked to drive front drive shaft seal in at the same time. and yes took me long time to get the seal out. harbor freight seal driver kit fit perfect to drive shaft bushing in. ebay got a hole rebuild kit with American bearings and seals for 75 bucks fyi. screw gm china crap
I have 2003 chevy expresse 1500 i juste rebuild the transfer case but it still noice, the mechanic tell me its normal untill the parts work well together.. it is right?
Hi Brian, I have a 01 Silverado 2500hd Maybe you can help me out with all your awesome knowledge! Love you vids! Well heres whats going on.. My truck transmission started like grinding sound when it was down shifting like stuck between gears. So someone mentioned the shift selector was bad so my nephew replaced it for me, didnt change anything! So we were told its maybe the shif solinods si we then drained the fluid and it had some green (antifreeze) in it! So I pulled the tranny and broke it down found the clutches were burnt up on one of the packs. So I ran across another allison M74/A1000 tranny on facebook. Put that in and same symptoms. It drove went up through the gears fine then on slowing down it grinded really bad! So took it to a shop thought maybe the computer needed reset or something. Well I dont have great confidence in the shop (scary) seemed he was guessing and coming up with whatever to ger me to buy another tranny. I explained that one was just replaced. Well them they got it back up on the lift and then said maybe my nephew wired the shift selector wrong and the needed to retrace the wires to wire correctly. It would also on the dash go in and out and also flash in some of the gear selections. So I let them do that. Guess what! Still not fixed! Now they are telling me its the transfer case and can rebuild it for 800.00 And the wire harness on back of the tranny right bottom side they think needs to be replaced for another 400.00 bucks because it got a small dribble at the seal and they thonk the fluid getting on connector is throwing out codes. So do you think a transfer case can make the grinding noise and cause it not to be able to down shift? Any help I really appreciate it! Heres my direct and I can give you my phone number also but not leaving it on youtube lol Thanks Dean deanknipp@comcast.net
@@briansmobile1 Thank you very much!!! I don't really have a good set of pliers to hold back the ring. Really appreciate the video, definitely helped out a lot. 👍
I changed out the oil transfer case since asking this question. The pump had eaten through the case. Put a new one in the truck and with the brace kit it sound the same as before. Have another lined up with 3 months warranty. Trying to figure this out.
Yes because children are a liability, You should just have them eliminated and frame someone for the crime and if that doesn't work out just transfer the case.
Get it up on stands and check it. Modern trucks have all kinds of vacuum solenoids and electronic actuating to get the axle to engage for action and disengage for fuel economy.
Get MA pump upgrade kit here → amzn.to/2i5W1Ss Get my favorite gasket maker for this here → amzn.to/2hkTC5z Click here to watch my video on a pump rub hole repair using a plate → ua-cam.com/users/edit?o=U&vide...
Hey Brian, I have some pretty good up and down play on the rear driveshaft to the transfer case. When I kinda hit it up while in the transfer case, it sounds like a metal on metal clink. Is that normal?
@@luamayav4 by v8 go. 8⁵
Sorry to be offtopic but does any of you know a method to log back into an instagram account??
I somehow lost the account password. I appreciate any assistance you can offer me
@Rene Aldo Instablaster :)
@Dylan Otis Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site on google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff now.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Just got a 05 with 60k kmh and i am experiencing all the problems youre working on. Thank you!! Its still helpin us
This is one of the better videos lately, at least IMO. Love to see the difference in work, one by a butcher & one by a tech.
Nice part 1. I paid somebody to rebuild one of these 2 years ago, cost was about $1300 with them doing all the work. It was in the middle of winter and at the time I had no garage. I also rebuilt another before that one for about $300 in parts which included the back half of the case since it had a hole worn through it.
$1300? You got robbed you could have bought a rebuilt one for like $1100!
@@marcowens3522 You could have just rebuilt it yourself for $300 in parts. You got robbed!!!
@@mph5896 sure I could of but I didn't have time to rebuild it and more like 400 to 475 to rebuild it.
Been doing these transfer cases for a while. Good video by the way. I'd like to mention one thing I do. if it's just the update kit you dont have to remove the transfercase. Just unbolt the bottom bolts to the trans mount and lift the trans up till it all most touches the bottom of the floor, it will just give you enough room to wiggle the case half out. The C clip is a pain but it will spread apart. OH That C clip that prevents the removal of the case half is just that ,it has no purpose at all, I leave it out. the bearing is held in place by the snap ring. and the case holds it in place. Why did the engineer that part
Thanks!
You've raised the bar again with another UA-cam video, Brian. It's gonna be fun to watch part 2.
You're too kind man. I'm working on part two today to post tomorrow morning. My goal is to fill in some tips and tricks that help folks get through the tougher parts that cause hold ups and hang ups.
@@briansmobile1where is part 2?
Wow man great video...I sure hope my mechanic is as thorough as you are. Mines a leaky mess! 02 Sierra SLT 330K
8675517 is the part number for the AC Delco rear transmission seal. Great video dude.
I discovered my transfer case is covered in fluid on my 99 Tahoe that's 268k miles young. I greatly appreciate this excellent video. This rig isn't my daily driver any longer and has no symptoms of concern, but I wanted an idea of what it would take to deal with the worse case scenario of a rebuild or replacement. Part 1 has me thinking even if only new seals are needed that I should plan on doing a full rebuild in case any internal case wear is on the brink, etc.
I need a four-wheel drive on many occasions, and I also often need the power and towing capacity of my Tahoe as well. I don't need either often enough to justify replacing it with a new rig or making a gas guzzler my daily, but I do need them enough to justify just about any major mechanical repair regardless of my Tahoe's age. This transfer case rebuild looks like a smart thing to plan to do proactively within the next year or two.
It looks like a job that isn't bad to do patiently and proactively but that would be horrible as a breakdown repair under duress.
Another 1999 Tahoe says hi! I love mine. It has 153k. Used to be my daily (actually weekly) commuter alike yours. Now it is in semi retirement. I take it out for the occasional trip. Plan to take it for some nice vacation trip this year. Just have to figure out where. It has been a great vehicle to travel. I can't think of a better one. Well, maybe an 8.1 swap with a 4L80. That would be sweet. Just a dream.
I believe the idea behind the floating seal has to do with longevity and cost-savings. With a conventional seal, the output shaft would slip around the soft material of the seal. This means the output shaft must be polished to a very fine finish so as not to rapidly wear out the seal. The 2-piece seal has a highly polished ring inside (the first section you pulled out) that the soft outer material slides against. In theory, the polished ring in the seal is cheaper to produce and has more consistent quality than polishing the sealing area of the output shafts. GM (or AAM?) also uses these seals in the rear axle housings. Many aftermarket seals are a *1-piece* design which fail rapidly because the axle shafts are not polished for direct sliding-seal contact. I guess all this means is GM will be getting my money for seals because I don't like changing them.
Yours is a good angle. I am glad I am reading the comments and found yours. Following your comment made me thinking, the 2-piece design is may be even more forgiving during installation as far as abrasion damage goes. In this case as shown in he video, there is a large rough area that the seal has to traverse upon installation. Sure well lubed, but still.
Also and this is just another thought, the 2-piece design may be even more prone to self cleaning. I think this, because I would expect the rotational forces to move small contaminants within the sealing area eventually towards the outer area and hopefully eventually drop outside the sealing area. Vs. some regular seals are made in ways that they have sort of a dual lip to trap grease, but contaminants too. Anyhow, just my thoughts.
Very informative. Thank you. You mention the Sheriffs Department. If you are out there, be careful and smart. World is going nuts.
Thank you, I will
I just found my one of my new top 5 channel much respect for teaching with humor
I am getting ready to do this and was looking for some videos on the process. Your video is very informative and with great attention to detail and highlighting issues that may be easy to overlook. I particularly was looking for the wear situation in case of an intact factory ‘saver tab’ and @7:30 you showed exactly the issue here as well. So this made me decide for the MA pump upgrade vs. before seeing your video I was considering the simple stamped steel drop-in saver unit. But seeing the factory saver tab working it’s way into the magnesium like that - huh. I think the stamped saver won’t last long. Thank you for pointing out in the second video the clip eating into the housing as well. Anyhow, sorry for writing so much and thanks again for all the great tips and really well made video.
I'm glad I could help! And thanks for the feedback. Have you been able to get it done yet? how'd it go for you?
@@briansmobile1 Thank you for chiming in and asking.
Well, here is the short version:
The transfer case is done.
Here is the long version:
I used a new transfer case half, even though the old transfer case had NO holes what so ever. In fact I found it to be in really good condition (@153k miles). So good that I actually regretted having opened it and kept banging my head in the wall thinking "if it ain't broke don't fix it".
First problem was that seeing that, I started brainstorming if I should even use the already purchased magnesium case half or just reuse my old housing and put everything back together. I got the new magnesium housing for a very good price, so I was considering taking advantage of that.
But then again - huh. I found that I had a little wear, but only at area of the clip. I believe approx. 1mm of material was missing. So that meant that the Merchant Automotive unit would ‘ride’ on 3x legs vs. 4x, with one leg being ‘in the air’ by about 1mm. Essentially the forces would be distributed to 75% of the area vs. 100%.
So I ended up doing some test fitting of the Merchant Automotive unit in the old case and the new case. New case won of course hands down. I also tried to determine the case wall thickness by measuring the outer area and comparing that against the inner part. It looked like the case wall is slightly thicker at the clip. To my estimation it is 3-4mm thick. The other 3x respective areas appeared to be around 3mm. And that is exactly what finally made me decide to use the Merchant Automotive part.
Because the way I see it, otherwise, with the old case the way this is going to go down is that the currently 3x area where the pump ‘legs’ are ‘riding’ are going to wear down as long as all ‘legs’ are going to be able to carry the load. So the Merchant Automotive part would eventually wear in and in this case wear into the case half to some degree, until all or enough legs will carry the load.
So the transfer case is done. As far as the actual work goes, yes, I had some hiccups along the way, but in the end nothing too serious. I have since thoroughly tested the vehicle. Transfer case shifts through all modes and there are no suspicious noises.
Before putting things together, I have checked for integrity of the sensor hole depth. Actually I have checked same value on the old transfer case half before disassembly. I measured on both old and new 32.4mm on both sensor holes from the O-Ring surface to the gear tooth top land.
I ended up reusing the encoder motor gasket. Its built in o-rings looked far better than the ones on the new-aftermaket gasket. This new one would have needed some trimming in order to clear certain spots of the transfer case, which would have been an easy fix, but the deal breaker was that it even had some badly aligning (almost aligning, but just not quite aligning) holes as well. So Amazon refunded it.
I did not replace neither the input shaft gasket nor front driveshaft output shaft gaskets. I was already way behind schedule and did not want any additional potential hold up. I figured the input shaft gasket is lubed from both sides, so how bad could it be. A little potential seeping between transmission and transfer case could not be the end of the world was my reasoning. So I have left it alone. Fingers crossed.
Removal of the baked-in silicone was at first rather challenging. But then I came up with a really nice method, which I like to share:
I have used a multi tool with green kitchen scotch brush pads, which I cut to pieces. I greased those with some transmission assembly lube, so that they does not create or shed any particles. I needed new pads every few inches as the pads would load up or the abrasiveness would diminish. No problem, they are cheap enough. I was able to rotate them 180 as well, so each pad got 2x passes. All in all it worked like a charm. So well, that I probably would not even needed to cover the transfer case internals. Also so well, that this is now my preferred method for removing gaskets. No rotational flinging off of grease either. Wonderful.
Bolts was another brainstorming event. I chased all the threads and wanted to install new bolts, but then I cheaped out thinking I am already spending way too much money on a "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" job. So I said the hell with it, I reuse my existing nylon covered bolts. Which were, well not so well nylon covered any more. So initially I was thinking to clean the nylon off of them, but it turned out to be way too time intensive. In the end I left it as is. I used some thread sealant for the threads and a hint of Loctite blue.
(By the way, I checked and BMW N52 inline 6's use magnesium for the upper and lower crankcase. Porsche has been using 1968-1977 Magnesium Case Halves as well. But apparently not without problems)
When I have assembled the transfer case halves, I have managed to mess up my first attempt. I made the classical beginner error. And YES, I totally knew that I was making it, but I kept on doing it anyway; I put too much RTV. I kept telling myself, it was OK, let’s not worry about it, factory over did the RTV as well, plus many other people are doing the same mistake too and are probably just fine. Then after it was all done and all bolts torqued I got uneasy and said screw it, I am not going to leave this like this. So I have redone the whole damn thing again. Of course this set me back once again some considerable time. Having to remove all the uncured RTV and cleaning everything again. But the second time I got it pretty good. Only a thin bead of RTV seemed to have been pushed out.
Oh, just before case halves assembly, I have managed to drop my damn magnet. Great. It fell to the floor and went up in pieces. So another setback. Especially with all eBay sellers that had it being located on the east coast, me on the west coast and so hence long standard shipping times. But luckily I was able find it at (would you have guessed?) our local Home Depot. Home Depot Part #96604. OD and thickness exactly the same (1.75 x 0.25 inches), ID about 1/16 larger, but who cares. It is a strong magnet and Home Depot hat it in stock.
Final assembly of the transfer case back into the vehicle with no issues. Overall I am very happy how this project came out.
Thanks again for all your advice in the video!
Your video is amazing. Details are so good. Thank you Sir. Your a rock star!
Loved the star destroyer reveal of your vice grips
I love that idea period. I'm definitely inspired. I don't even yet own a slide hammer, but the vice grip attachment looks like a reason to pick one up for sure.
Previous owner on my truck told me he"fixed" the leak. He sure did! Two self tapping screws and I guess JB weld. Wedged the pump in place. I was actually able to separate the case with the shaft and pump in place. That's when I saw the screws
Excellent video very educational thank you! The problem that I have is every time I put my vehicle in reverse it sounds like a bad u-joint or a slap or knock but I come to find out it's coming from my transfer case, upgrading to the new pump plate did that solve and fix the issue?
Great video Brian, keep up the good work
Nice job Brian. Good chatting with you on the live stream the other night with Spanky.
Ok I'm not doing that , not even going to try but I do enjoy watching you do it. LOL
All men love that sound
enjoy all of your work mate. thanks for sharing joe
Welcome Joe!
You found some interesting foreign objects and wear in that case. I'll remember not to use black RTV for sure. Good tips about installing the seals. I'll be back!
So will ultra grey RTV work?
Great video and explanation.. my 01 GMC Yukon is not shifting from 2WD to 4HI, pops the ATC fuse. Pulled the t case motor and it motor will cycle all positions no problem
Would tearing into the t case and doing this service fix a shifting problem?
Finding a mechanic that cares and will actually do the work you pay them to do, is getting very difficult.
Maximizing profits seems to be the main focus.
ake legg
jake legg poll
As a former mechanic, I can't speak for everyone but I can speak for many. The shops drive the bad experiences and reputations many associate with mechanics. The shops put the squeeze on the mechanics and the customers. There are so many repairs and inspections that have a built in loss for the mechanic and selling repairs on discovered issues, etc is supposed to be the payoff for the mechanic. The flag times are cut throat. Experience can improve the situation, but no mechanic can pay their bills if they were as casual and conscientious about their daily work as this man and others are in UA-cam videos.
What you are seeing is the approach probably most mechanics would like to be able to make to their jobs, but they wouldn't have a job if they actually did so and even if they had a job they would not earn enough flag time to feed and clothe their families.
Some mechanics are greedy but nearly every shop is definitely greedy and they put the squeeze on the mechanic and the customer while the mechanic and the customer tend to loathe each other for the situation while the shop in middle sneaks by to stash their cash grab.
Some shops are good, but you will know them because a good shop won't keep a bad or crooked mechanic around. So if your experience is broken it's probably not the mechanic at fault. It certainly isn't only the mechanic at fault. It's the fake smiling faces of the shop owners, management, and counter sales that have duped you into thinking your mechanic is a bad apple at an otherwise fine establishment. Don't trash an entire group of professionals while ignoring the corporate greed that is the real root of your bitterness.
Nice. I call dibs on helping with the next transfer case rebuild!
I. Except
Mnk
Call
Maybe if you can find a washer that has the correct inner/outer diam. For that floati ng seal it would make it easier. Then you can use the bearing housing and even a press
only 8 minutes in and you're already singing Bon Jovi and Def Leopard lol
That's a good thing. It means I'm happy ; P
Willa Herrera back when his hair was reverse. All on top and no beard. Think...how many guys had bald heads and beards who listened to Jovi and Def Lepard? Now how many with long hair and zero beards?!
Good job on the video.... Man that bad boy looks heavy to do alone though.
I know the casting is some kind of magnesium but do you think you could patch a pinhole with those aluminum brazing rods?
Those mac guns are a beast
Do you do a video on replacing the clutch pack? I hate to open up a NP246 and not replace the friction and steels.
GODDAMINT BRIAN you gave me a cliff hanger now im sad waiting in the corner
Nobody puts Alaude in the corner dang it! Except Alaude of course.
sadly awaiting the next vid!... whether thats good or bad thats on you
To new for my 97 1500 c\k but thank you for your time
Welcome Michael!
Hey Brian: good video. I have some comments and a question.
Now I realize that I am commenting on an Older video, that being said.
You spoke about the transmission extension leaking fluid, recommended that someone should replace the seal if leaking.
Mine is leaking fluid noticed it, after I removed the transfer case...
You don't show how you would go about removing this seal..
Although no-one else has shown how to remove the seal either...
I think that there would be numerous people who would love to see what tools and techniques that you use to do this job.
Question: Do you know how to find a good diagram showing this seal.?
Thank you for your time...
As a stopgap measure in WWII throw a transfer case into a civilian vehicle to make it AWD. The trouble is, the design has never changed.
Sounds easy enough.
Thanks for the knowledge I have a 2008 GMC had duramax. I went to service my transfer case and the previous shop must have over tightened and stripped the fill bolt. Now I have to fill from the speed sensor. Only problem I would like to check the levels. Any ideas on how to remove the bolt and install the new plug
Go get a Irwin strip bolt removal kit from Lowes or homedepo. Or find a buddy w a welder that can help ya. Or if your in a bind grind the bolt flat on 2 spots to get a new movement point ... Replace bolt.
kentmoore makes a tool for that seal, ive got one its great
Nice! Thanks for the tip!
Very good video Brian.
So that's a 4L80e. Regarding the GM trans output seal, Does a 4L60e have one? I'm working on a 4L60e/NP261 and have the T case off. I don't see a seal.
2003 z71
I'm not sure. Best check with a transmission shop tech who specializes in these. I think it does, but I'm not 100% on that. I'm building a BMW R1200RT transmission tonight and I've been sick the last 4 days. I won't remember everything on that either I'm sure.
@@briansmobile1 Well then you better record it :)
ViseGrip slide hammer.!🤯
Innovatively brilliant✨🤓
Did this vehicle have the nickel slip yoke upgrade? (I assume not) My understanding is that wear of the snap ring and the knocking sound is an indication of the slip yoke "sticking". I know you added the grease fitting in the slip yoke to help this out in the part 2 video, how did that go for helping it? Its my understanding that the MA Tcase fluid is supposed to help with the knocking as well. (instead of using the ATF fluid in the Tcase) Thanks for the good videos!
I shipped a 2007 Tahoe LTZ 4x4 to my country we don’t use 4x4 transfer case is destroyed I want to remove the transfer case and make if 2x4 what do I need to achieve this?
I know I would need a drive shaft from 2x4 donor
I have an 01 silverado np246 how come alot of kits and parts say 02 and up is there some difference on the 01 np246? I have some parts on my truck say 00 as in yr 2000 like my front diff has an 00 on it I did some transmission work and my valve body is an 02 with the blue paint saying SERV so im guessing that was rebuilt at the dealer I have 3.73 gear ratio I got a knock when going into reverse coming from Tcase any imput on this?
Hello there.. I have a np246 transfer case and I did some work to it.. is there supposed to be fluid in the extension house . From the trans to T-case ??
You need to pull speed pickup 1st before you split the case
Hey Brian, I have 05 cayenne 200k auto ..problem won't move in any gear (grinding vibrating humming sound) now if you lock diff on both axles - it moves very slow but I assume this is like a 4wheel low gear ... Any clue on why this would not grab a gear unless diff locked ?? Previous clicking noises when stepping on gas ...would go away randomly if feathered the gas ... Praying not transmission... Any ideas ? Thanks ...
How did you release the clip? The video didn't really show. Please help!
Brian i jabe a question for you well after i watched this video like a week lator mine went. But ok had it fixed an now i noticed the very bottom bolt rite next to drain plug is wet an looks like coming from behind bolt an seeping out is this a easy fix ? Or would they have to redo the whole seal on transfer case. Thanks brian.
You may be able to drain and save the fluid. Then clean the hole w. brake cleaner and put this → amzn.to/2RBAFhe on the bolt to seal it in.
Why did you use the MA pump upgrade kit vs the 27 dollar adapt a case Pump Wear Plate? The Pump Wear Plate seems so much easier and cheaper to use. I just did mine with the Pump Wear Plate after watching your previous video. Seems to have done the trick for the last 1000 miles or so.
Two reasons. 1. I already did a video on the plate. 2. MA does a lot of homework to overcome problems just a little better than others do.
briansmobile1 Fair enough. Thanks.
Can tail shaft case wear from the output shaft bearing cause drivetrain noise? Took apart my truck to locate this drivetrain noise that sounds like an output shaft bearing but it looks fine. The case is pretty worn around it though.
Absolutely it can. Likely the U-joints or driveshaft balance weight had an issue. If you can take your driveshaft to a driveshaft shop close by I'd have them spin it and check balance.
No one tells you that the speed sensor will prevent you from opening the 2 case half's, I fought the lock ring for over half an hour before realizing this.
I ran into that today lol
Best tip!!! Glad I remembered I read this while I was fighting to remove tailshaft from housing.
Hello can you send me a step by step skretch or something? And the hummer h2 is the same?! And when we pull of the transfer case need the change a fluid or no ?
What if you have a whining sound in 4 wheel drive when you accelerate and decelerate and while driving with no snow on ground... but 4 wheel only is the whining sound. What could that be?
CAN I REMOVE MY TRANSFER CASE NP8 FROM MY 2007 CHEVY TAHOE FOREVER ? IF SO WHAT DO I NEED 1 HAVE 3 AND NEED TO USE THEM AS LIMOUSINES 4X4 NOT NEEDED
Can u do the pump upgrade and still use the brny case saver?
Can u use both?
I feel like and idiot… I accidentally ordered the knockoff MA pump saver. When I put it on my pump it’s VERY hard to turn. Is this normal? Was my pump just worn making it loose before?
Is it possible to remove the back half of the transfer case while it is still installed in the truck?
I KNEW IT!
I'm first and I just found your channel😂
you sure have missed alot over the years lol
YEEE-AHHH!
Nice left thumb nail. Good video too.
A little dab of RTV on the case will fix the wire rubbing issue.
Just pulled my 261 do to wear holes and an occasional grind. I split the case and that metal tab was broke off. It has about an half inch of play in the main sprocket on the main shaft... is that normal? And the pump has play also.
Is it safe to use 5w30 full synthetic oil in transfer case
hey! there i have question i have a trailblazer 03 that is leaking from the top of my transfer case at first my first time to view this i thought its was my front shaft output seal, when i take the shaft out the way i notice shaft seal is still in good shape not seen any leak from seal but i notice a fresh fluid coming from the top of the transfercase and i see this only hose all wet with oil, my big bam question is why this hose is loose and open with no where to connect it ( my transmission oil is on level engine filter oil change was done recent) but when i clean up the oil mess with a white towel and smell like engine oil like burn, so im thinking that my engine oil is leaking out from this hose why and why this hose is leaking out my engine oil. the thing is when i take my trailbazer for oil filter change at the shop the guy tell me that the engine has no oil at all and this is the 3 time that the shop tell me when i bring back to the shop regurly for oil change but in the engine area there is no oil leak anywhere they look and nothing seem to be leaking anywhere, but this hose got me thinking and i cant find no result what the cause of it. any help??? thanks
briansmobile, what is the approx cost to rebuild the transfer case? Labor-wise
Can I put a different ratio transfer case on my 05 Chevy 2500?
Yes.
Hello, i have a 2005 Chevy avalanche 1500 and have a lot of play on my shaftcomming from the transfer case and going to the front diff. If I drive the car and let go of the gas and go back on the gas there is Always a bang/klunk noise. Also when i put in drive you feel this play and here that noise. And there is a winning noise when i drive. Now what do you think this is? Transmission has been rebuild by the previous owner, so that should be ok. Is it the same part you replace that causes that sound? ore is it something with the belt Tension Maybe? Kind Regards from Belgium
Just wondering ? The squeel didnt happen to be a roller lifter on the cam did it ? I just had that go bad and mine sounded like a serpentine belt squeel , but i removed that and it still squeeled
I have a clunk in my trans when twisting the drive shaft by had, it seems to be in the transfer case. Any ideas?.
Is it bad to put differential oil in a transfer case?
Do you have the part numbers for the seals? TIA
Exceptional
What is the correct type of sealer?
Brian, you mentioned at the 4:15 mark that the reason for tearing it apart is because of a knocking from coasting to romping on it. My question is, did you find out what the cause of that "knocking" was? I dont recall you saying anything about that in the 2 videos. If You could clarify for me I would really appreciate it as my 2004 2500HD is currently doing just that. Thanks.
I was looking for the same thing. hopefully he sees this, replies, and I am alerted to the reply.
how do you remove the front drive shaft boot from the case? Do i just pull on it? it's rubber and i'm trying not to destroy it
Never use black RTV?! Then what the hell are you supposed to use?
How many miles did your truck have?
This was a firefighter buddy's truck. It was at 150k when I did this if I remember right.
Does it matter what position the chain goes back in if it happens to come off?
Nope. No timing involved. The chain is just a linkage mechanism.
@@briansmobile1 thanks bro I got it figured out.
i just used the 2 main shaft old bearings stacked to drive front drive shaft seal in at the same time. and yes took me long time to get the seal out. harbor freight seal driver kit fit perfect to drive shaft bushing in. ebay got a hole rebuild kit with American bearings and seals for 75 bucks fyi. screw gm china crap
I have 2003 chevy expresse 1500 i juste rebuild the transfer case but it still noice, the mechanic tell me its normal untill the parts work well together.. it is right?
Hi Brian,
I have a 01 Silverado 2500hd
Maybe you can help me out with all your awesome knowledge! Love you vids! Well heres whats going on..
My truck transmission started like grinding sound when it was down shifting like stuck between gears. So someone mentioned the shift selector was bad so my nephew replaced it for me, didnt change anything! So we were told its maybe the shif solinods si we then drained the fluid and it had some green (antifreeze) in it! So I pulled the tranny and broke it down found the clutches were burnt up on one of the packs. So I ran across another allison M74/A1000 tranny on facebook. Put that in and same symptoms. It drove went up through the gears fine then on slowing down it grinded really bad! So took it to a shop thought maybe the computer needed reset or something. Well I dont have great confidence in the shop (scary) seemed he was guessing and coming up with whatever to ger me to buy another tranny. I explained that one was just replaced. Well them they got it back up on the lift and then said maybe my nephew wired the shift selector wrong and the needed to retrace the wires to wire correctly. It would also on the dash go in and out and also flash in some of the gear selections. So I let them do that. Guess what! Still not fixed!
Now they are telling me its the transfer case and can rebuild it for 800.00
And the wire harness on back of the tranny right bottom side they think needs to be replaced for another 400.00 bucks because it got a small dribble at the seal and they thonk the fluid getting on connector is throwing out codes.
So do you think a transfer case can make the grinding noise and cause it not to be able to down shift?
Any help I really appreciate it!
Heres my direct and I can give you my phone number also but not leaving it on youtube lol
Thanks Dean
deanknipp@comcast.net
Dean Knipp
Mine is doing the same . Goes reverse but no forward
Radiator transmision cooler leaking fluids back and forth ? Antifreeze will tear up a transmission fast .
Can anyone link a good set of pliers for the lock ring, thanks.
Whasup Ginja Man!? Asked and answered. This is the best bang for the buck → amzn.to/2H2hmLO
@@briansmobile1 Thank you very much!!! I don't really have a good set of pliers to hold back the ring. Really appreciate the video, definitely helped out a lot. 👍
B MOB ONE
Whats that pump clip called
How do you know when the pump needs to change.
When there's evidence of insufficient lubrication like wear or dark fluid- it's time.
I changed out the oil transfer case since asking this question. The pump had eaten through the case. Put a new one in the truck and with the brace kit it sound the same as before. Have another lined up with 3 months warranty. Trying to figure this out.
The inception of seals ... lol
Can you tell e number part for rebuilding de
Can someone show a video of the np 149. AWD transfer case rebuild? Can't find it aaaaaaannnnnnyyyyyywwwwwhhhheeeerrreeeee
How do you know it’s rtv.? Curious.
Texture, toughness, color, and smell.
briansmobile1 hahahaha
I was going to see about the transfer case but I seen your duralast box...so see ya......
Black silicone will plug up the oil filter and starve the sliders of oil.... use the right shit PPL....
Don’t EVER show me the “fish face” on that transfer case again. I can’t stop seeing it every time I address this part
Terry
Hi Terry.
NEVER go ful retord
IT DOES LOOK LIKE A FISH
Yes because children are a liability, You should just have them eliminated and frame someone for the crime and if that doesn't work out just transfer the case.
AHHHHHH!!!! oh. you're kid-ing!
No joke don't move to Oregon.
I believe everyone that makes a dang auto video talks way too much about other crap.
Scotty, you may be right about that.
Spent way to long talkin bout damn seals...if you have to explain that stuff then the folks watching dont need to be touching anything
If no RTV, what would you use?
Chemical/oil resistant rtv
My truck feels like the 4wd isnt pulling any ideals i hear everthing click in
Get it up on stands and check it. Modern trucks have all kinds of vacuum solenoids and electronic actuating to get the axle to engage for action and disengage for fuel economy.